Great project thanks from England

Thanks for sharing. I just had an issue with a rubbing speaker - I replaced it, but I still have the old one so I have nothing to lose if I give this a try!

Nice work Don, it sounds GREAT!

Thanx for the video Don. Would you please tell us where you purchased that 'capacitor checker' for determining the 'outside foil' connection? Bless Your Bunions!

Outstanding has always my friend. Happy Forth of July to you and all your Viewers . Liked and shared. All my very best.

No dust cover over the magnet ?

It needed to have this done. Thanks for showing the procedure Don.

Had a feeling you might just do this. Nicely done, sir. Requires patience and a delicate touch - not two of my strong points.

I am looking g for someone to restore an antique radio. Any recommendations in the USA?

The solar cell solution is brilliant; bias looks rock-steady! I know how that feels - an absolutely pristine speaker that's not properly centered. You have to get to a point where you accept that it's not actually pristine, precisely because it's not centered.

Great looking mods! I never would have though to use a solar cell.

Hello my friend. That's one cool work around for the Basis cell. Smart very Smart . As always I liked and shared. All my very best to you and yours.

Your videos keeps us all going, thank you from England

Never thought of doing that with a solar cell. You are darn clever Don.

Interesting workarounds...thanks for sharing!

Great solution. I have a Rogers Majestic, that's been waiting for you to solve this problem. I think it has two 1 volt bias cells. Thank you, sir.

Don. As you were explaining the problem with the speaker, I was wondering if lightly spraying both sides of the cone with water and adding some temporary shims would move the center the needed distance (perhaps 1/32" or so") after it was allowed to dry? Just a thought.

Great job Don!

One video is can opener manual winder; the next a automatic Ardrino based🎉

The method You were using scares me. When I worked on tube electronics starting 45 years ago, this was the first rule to save my live: Never ever touch the thing with both hands., always put one hand in my pocket. Second. When searching for the source of failure I would rathe pull tubes and start with putting back (known working good) & injecting a test signal. Starting at the end of the amplifier chain, instead of walking the whole path starting at the input stages. Just my two cents, experience collectect in 10 years of working with old tube based electronics.

I would say, the white numbers are quite pure in design and implementation, and I think I just see another model.

Thanks for updates on the radio, it's really helpful 👍

No wires were removed from their stock position only replaced . They are where they are because of something called lead dressing. Good stuff Don as I don't see many vids on this and lots of guys end up with a vintage radio with crumbling wires going into IF transformers. Do them one at a time and use written notes and photos of where they went exactly before tackling wire replacement. If you don't do this right you can get into problems with hum, whistling, squealing or low volume as you tune the dial. Found that in the book Elements of Radio Servicing , it's one of my favorites.

Looking good, Don! Replacing the faded old leads with new ones having the correct, original colors is a nice touch! These older, larger IF transformers with trim caps on top, I think, were a better design than the newer, smaller ones with the adjustable ferrite inductors and those internal sheet capacitors that invariably develop silver-mica disease. It is my thinking that this later evolution (or devolution) was a cost-cutting measure in the later postwar AA5 receivers.

Thank you very much for posting this video. I always learn something from you. God bless.

Do you work on WWII era military radios too?

Great work Don, The I.F. should be good for many more years!

I bought that rivet tool a while back after watching one of your videos and it quite handy indeed Don.

I always have a good assortment of colored heat shrink tubing. When I have crumbling rubber wiring in a chassis, I can with care, just slide the correct color heat shrink down over the wire or up into an IF can which negates the need to replace the wire. All I do is unsolder one end. Also no need to shrink the tubing unless you want to.

Hey Don. Quite a few caps in this set to replace. Neat tool to remove rivets. Off to the races! :)

I have heard that dog bone resistors are usually good but down south the temperature and humidity changes over time make them unreliable. Don't ignore the little 1/4 and 1/2 Watt resistors either, for the same reason. Terminal strip solder points are too shiny smooth and don't accept solder too well. Good idea with using an engraver but emery cloth works too. I bought some at Menard's. Probably will last forever as I don't do plumbing work. Oh no the cursed rotten rubber insulation has raised it's ugly head once again. Been there , done that and seems like way too much of the time Don.

Thanks for the "BED" resistor chart...that'll be helpful.

Using an engraver is a pretty smart idea for roughing up the surface for a better solder connection! It would be a good precaution to either put some spaghetti tubing over those bare wires going into that IF transformer or just replace them. I've got an RCA 75X14 from 1947 that uses those same types of crumbling rubber insulated wires.

Greetings Don! Always interesting videos from you. Take care!

Hi my friend. I see it has one of those Biasing cells. I have heard of people fixing them. I have never had any luck doing it. Do you have a work around for them ? This will be another Outstanding restore I am sure. As always I liked and shared. All my very best to you and yours.

Thanks Don! I can't wait to see it shine like a new penny. I have a couple of GIANT soldering irons I bought at a flea market that since using them I hardly use my soldering gun anymore. They must be about 300 watts or greater because they are MUCH hotter than my 250 watt Weller (poor quality) soldering gun, plus you don't have to continuously keep tightening the tips. Not sure if they still make these foot long soldering irons, but they have no problem getting the chassis hot enough to remove ground straps. If you ever see one BUY IT! They are also "period correct" which is kind of cool! I use a metal napkin holder as the base. I hate to see what would happen to my poor carpet if this thing ever fell on the floor! Take care and good luck.

Hi Don. Looks like you are off to a wonderful start once again. Yet another old radio to restore. I wish you much success, but with your track record on these I think you will do just fine. :)

Built rock solid in it's day. Notice the bias cell in the middle of the chassis. Easily replaced by a Lithium 1.5 Volt battery. Boy that was one dry wet electrolytic can.

A no thrill radio. They always had lower quality models perhaps this could be one.

Two versions. The one you have is correct for 1950 but a earlier version did have the copper foil dial face. That one came with a 50B5 like the identical Aircastle model 9008I or 9008W ( by Spiegel,Inc in 1950) but which had a single IF stage .

Wow , a much simpler looking set than the Grunow I finished early this year. Very cool with the old matching date service labels on the tubes. Looks like it will clean up and perform beautifully Don.

the chassis looks to be in good shape !

Should be a fine series...

Looking forward to see the next episodes . Have just finished chassis of a model 1191 grunow . Trying to finish the cabinet outside but the weather is an issue. Thanks for all of your videos. Dean

Fascinating video, and a beautiful set! I suspect the manufacturer may have used radium in the paint on that dial, as it appears to me to have that characteristic faint, greenish glow. It seems the restoration should be fairly straightforward, with not much in the way of surprises as it likely spent most of its life in a dry, sheltered environment.

I'm an electronics engineer and I can repair such a receiver, but what's the point of wasting time on it?

I've got a 41 280 that still works but I don't turn it on much because all the capacitors are original.. it's incredibly good shape it still has the little cardboard label on the spinning antenna I wonder what somebody would give me for it

Does the ferrite core with the windings serve as an antenna? Can I leave this out or use a standard coil to redirect the AM signal into a antenna cable?

Does not look like anything is missing with that model imho. Looks a bit newer by a year or so or maybe a copy if this is possible?.

There are photos of two Meck DA-601s on the Radio Attic website. Dated 1949 it is the same as yours, while the 1950 version has a copper scale faceplate.