That’s penetrating damp through the wall not rising

@@teddysuhrensghost263 I am aware.

@@teddysuhrensghost263 I watched the video.

Hi Richard, they should have addressed the defective external render then promoted rapid drying out before assessing what if any internal remedial work was necessary. Simply dry lining the internal was never going to solve the problem. 🤝

The external elevation was rendered at the time of my original visit but the render was removed approximately 2 weeks ago. The render was in very poor condition.

Not surprised about the damp issues then, as a time served bricklayer for more than 50 years its really disheartening that basic knowledge how of how a building works is slowly going down the pan , love your videos and your extensive knowledge 👍👍

I thought the same but since then the replies answer the question.

I doubt you could get a better example of the point you’re trying to prove.

My thoughts exactly Liam. 🤔

Clueless trades ?, some people have strange ideas also

Is was made of a light cardboard and had metal strips stapled horizontally across it to maintain its zig zag corrugations and then the whole lot was coated in boiling tar to water proof it. It was pretty stiff material and supplied in rolls. In the late 1970s I lined a whole basement room with it. The ‘Newtonite’ was attached by drilling through it into the wall at roughly 20cm intervals, plastic Rawlplugs were inserted and I used heavy duty galvanised nails with a large penny washer under the head to hold it in place. A 20 cm wide band against the wall provided an effective damp proof barrier at the gaps between the rolls as they were put up. We used daps of plaster adhesive to attach plasterboard to it and never had any further damp issues.

See Skillbuilder video , he has a very good information on chimney damp , Dryrods etc

Will do, thank you. 🤝

I've had the same problem with a damp and stained wall and ceiling around the chimney breast. A roofer re-did the lead flashing, and applied a coat of Thompsons brick sealer. Everything was fine for about 3 years, then this winter following the relentless rainfall the damp returned worse than before. Following research I found that Thompsons brick sealer only protects brickwork for 1-3 years at most. I believe the problem is porous brickwork and the inferior brickwork product has broken down. So, scaffolding has gone back up, the leadwork all looks fine, and I'm going to apply 2 heavy coats of Climashield Masonry Protection Cream or StormDry Masonry Protection Cream. These products are supposed to protect brickwork for up to 25 years. They aren't cheap but they do work well ! I've used Climashield before on an external wall and you can see the rainwater just bead and run off the wall during heavy rainfall, it never soaks into the brick or mortar lines.

Hi Patrick, I am a bit confused by your comment that I skipped over the cause of the problem. I have just re-watched the video and I certainly commented on the predominant source of the damp. The wall was affected by penetrating damp long before the walls were re-pointed so it was an historical water ingress issue. As for using a moisture meter, I fully understand how such a meter works and its limitations and I explain such in my reports. Electronic moisture meters are extremely useful in pointing the surveyor at locations that require further investigation. I would be very interested to hear your methodology when investigating damp issues and I would welcome the opportunity to shadow you on a survey to see firsthand your alternative diagnostic techniques. Regards, Neil

Patrick, with all due respect I did not make an assumption based on a very limited inspection. I'm not sure if you actually watched the video where I carried out an invasive investigation to support my initial diagnosis. As for your comment that the fracturing of the mortar joints is likely to be due to repointing with a and/cement mortar I am intrigued to hear a detailed explanation as to how you reach that conclusion. I look forward to being enlightened.

I did not use the meter to determine the moisture content of the masonry. I used it to prove that the wall is not affected by the rising damp. There is a huge difference. Please enlighten me and anyone else reading your comments how you would have carried out the survey using a speedy moisture meter including the methodology. In another post you informed us that you have acted as an expert witness. I also act as an expert witness and in 14 cases where so-called experts have carried out their diagnosis utilising a speedy moisture meter I have been able to discredit their methodology and gone on to win the case. In my humble opinion, 90% of people who use a speedy moisture meter use it incorrectly. Whilst you are writing your reply I would be grateful if you could explain how you carry out a pre-purchase survey using a speedy moisture meter. Regards. Neil

Patrick, do you by any chance hail from Wasperton?

mate thats like first year uni surveyor language. its basic