1:11

Finally digging into the motor. Checking the crank, cylinder, and all that. Also doing the shift detent mod. New tires, and more. We are getting there!
Link to shift detent mod video... • 1:11 YZ250 Shift Deten...
Link to removing a dent in a pipe... • 1:11 Some pipes can be...
Link to doing a top end on the YZ250... • 1:11 My YZ250 top end ...
Link to oil premix... • 1:11 Two Smoker Oil Ra...
Donate Race Fuel link... www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted...
Thanks for watching!
[e-mail]

[@HVAC544]

Cant wait to see what's coming. Just recently picked up a 24 YZ125 have some older bikes been giving me issues figured it was time for a new one. Thanks for all the knowledge on Yamaha.

[@UpAllNight91]

Congrates on the new 24 YZ125. Hopefully I will have one of them myself in about a year or so.

[@kenitsanoutragecandia3939]

👍Will be watching these vids closely. I Enjoy all the YZ 2 stoke stuff! Be happy to see you get her on the track or trail when you get her finished, even though finished is only a temporary state with these machines.

[@UpAllNight91]

Surely, will it ever be finished! LoL. But it will be good to ride. I hope to have her on the dirt in about 3 to 4 weeks. And then the tuning starts. First getting the suspension dialed in. And then I will revisit the motor and see if I can find a few more good ponies.

[@chris929rr7]

Quick tip to check clutch basket that I saw some cool kids doing. Great for quickly checking or changing springs, fibers and steels plates. Lay the bike down around 3\4 the way on the left hand side supported by something softer than the bike. That way you don't need to drain fluids each time. This works on any 2T MX bike. Not sure about removing the entire inner clutch cover though haven't tried that yet but it def works for the outer cover and gives access to the entire clutch basket. Hi Bevis you mad fkr :)

[@UpAllNight91]

For sure. I have done this also on 4 strokes too. When I need to get under the cover but dont wanna drop the oil.

[@stravis3269]

This is a very cool guy. I respect his posts

[@stravis3269]

I never really race my bikes I will give em hell through trails but I respect my bike

[@KenC56mm]

Right on bro I super glad your doing videos! I've missed a few my bad but yeah I enjoy your content!

[@UpAllNight91]

Thanks man!

[@twistymcslide2]

im in Jupiter if youd ever want to send me the detent rod , or spare ones you may have off a bike , ill weld it and redrill if youd mark ( X ) where youd want the hole. prob can mail it on a saturday and have it back the next saturday . like 20 min worth of work . grooving it weirds me out compared to a hole. . and you forgot your towel for the bottom end protection when removing the retaining clip on the piston/rod. ( all i can hear is Towelie saying , " Don't forget your towel " . )

[@UpAllNight91]

Thanks, will keep your welding skills in mind Could have used some help with that about a year ago when I broke a power valve rod! That little thing is expensive!. LoL yeah I took a chance with no towel on this one. I even thought about it as I was doing it and I was like oh well, its my bike lol.

[@MrJeffharper47]

I just did the Shift mod to my 2006 YZ250 today. I’ve only ever got maybe one or two false neutrals in the 50 or 60 hours of track time I’ve put on the bike but shifting definitely didn’t feel very tactile. Sometimes, especially when downshifting, there would be no “click“ or any type of physical response to let me know I shifted. Doing this mod made upshifting feel significantly better but downshifting feels much more “clicky” and tactile than before. I cut the groove on the bottom side of that stopper lever and also ordered a new spring. The old spring definitely had a little less tension than the new one I installed. It took about an hour total from the time started loosening the first bolt to starting the bike up after. All in all I’d have to say it was worth it.

[@UpAllNight91]

Right on! Glad to hear it helped. The clicky downshifting will ease up a little after the new spring breaks in a little. And I agree, in stock form you sometimes cant even feel if you completed the shift or not.

[@MrJeffharper47]

@@UpAllNight91 I like the clicky downshifting. I want all of the tactile Ness and physical feedback that I can get on my left boot when I’m shifting to affirm that the shift was completed.

[@MrJeffharper47]

@@UpAllNight91 I love the hell out of your videos by the way. You speak well and are very informative. It’s a bonus that I also own a YZ250 so keep the Yamaha content coming lol

[@UpAllNight91]

@@MrJeffharper47 Ahh ok. I thought you was complaining lol. I'm like you though, I want to know I got that shift in. Especially important when heading towards jumps.

[@UpAllNight91]

@@MrJeffharper47 Thanks brother! Appreciate that! I sure will. I have a ton more coming with this 2022

[@mikekraz6193]

that tire is smoked!!

[@UpAllNight91]

Oh yeah!

[@user-dn5ok5fz1t]

That's your big shifter, mod.Moving the Spring, a quarter of an inch further away.Just a little more spring tension. Seems like a lot of work for very little gain...

[@UpAllNight91]

That's all it takes

[@aklaunch]

Someday? Over the rainbow? And perhaps on a rainy boring day...... Would you be so kind to elaborate on assembly lube vs 2 stroke oil. What oils you use for break in or not? An even more importantly! I have watched you assemble no less than 4 pistons w/o any lube. I have mad respect for you, and your many years of education. But it would be cool if you could tell the world why you don't do that, what made you not do that, and a tiny bit more of your knowledge of bike break in do' s and don't s

[@UpAllNight91]

Hello. Yes I can. I have a video planned where I cover some general questions and I will include this in it. I should have that video up in about 2 weeks or so. Thanks!

[@davidconnor377]

Like your Dremel idea but my way on my 2001 yz 250 and my 2020 YZ250 x I heat my spring red hot and give it a half twist....works great

[@UpAllNight91]

Guess that would work too. Whatever it take, it just needs more spring pressure thats for sure.

[@Must.Excelerate]

Hey I’m looking at buying a 2016 YZ 125 down here in Florida for $4000. It’s a YZ 125 rebuilt from the frame up. Everything is new. the engine has been rebuilt cases vapor blasted. Brand new KKE rims Dunlop tires new tubes. New oem plastic and seat cover. Asv levers. Odi grips. New clutch cable new throttle cable oem. New pro circuit works full exhaust system. New vf4R reeds new airfilter. Carb has been cleaned and rebuilt and tuned. New titanium foot pegs. New brake lever shifter and kick starter. I mean the list goes on and on. The bike is a 2016 and all this just got done 5-15-24. Bike in the pictures also look brand new. 15 hours on top end.

[@UpAllNight91]

Sounds good. Just be sure to look everything over real well. Some of the bikes that have giving us the biggest problems here in the shop are the ones that have had lots of stuff tossed on them. Look her over good.

[@Must.Excelerate]

Seller sent a video and she sounds great, no bogging. Do you think 4k is worth the price

[@UpAllNight91]

@@Must.Excelerate the 2016's are wroth about 3000 to 3600 currently. So I guess it depends if the add on's are worth it to you.

[@barkeep25]

I'm sure you've heard of the pv mod already, but did you know that the 22 and newer yz's already come that way, with one less washer

[@UpAllNight91]

Hello. I checked into it. It seems they only added this change to the 250X. The normal YZ250 still has all washers just as all the models before it. I thought about trying this mod down the road but not sure how I will like it on a MX track where rapping the motor up quickly can be a good thing. Guess I will need to try it to know for sure.

[@barkeep25]

@UpAllNight91 Oh crap your right. Good to know!

[@barkeep25]

Oh also has longer springs in the forks like the 4t's

[@UpAllNight91]

Yes, the fork springs are surely different. I have some I ordered from factory connection.

[@barkeep25]

@UpAllNight91 yeah, bummed me out cuz I couldn't use the springs and valving from my 17 to my 23. To make matters worse the guy I bought the 23 from had it revalved pretty much perfect for my size and speed, which is great, but the nut holding the rebound Midvale/rebound piston backed off completely doing pretty significant damage.. but oh well

[@barkeep25]

So being a cheapo I found a guy selling the internals from an older fork on fb for $100, and redid the valving like my old one, that's pretty similar to the new one, but one has a long spring and the other the short spring, same rates, lol ride 2 hours yesterday and seems to be working good. Will eventually buy a new cartridge assembly though.

[@barkeep25]

I know they updated these to the 4t internals in 22, but I don't know if any will match better?? They are going to have different part numbers regardless due to the shim stacks being different between models. Contacted a local suspension guy but wasn't going to tell me anything unless I brought them in.. which is understandable.

[@UpAllNight91]

@@barkeep25 Ok. What are they like 10mm difference in length?

[@vwsandvettes3253]

Thanks for the video. When its time to do the crank on a '99 and up YZ250, would you prefer rebuilding the stock one or just purchasing an already assembled new crank and rod? I used to have a '98 YZ250. Now I have a brand new one, and so I have both options. I was out of luck on buying a new one for the '98 since those are unobtanium.

[@UpAllNight91]

Hello. A new crank is always be best choice because every time a crank is rebuilt with a new rod and bearing. And the pin is pressed out of the crank halfs and a new one pressed it, it becomes weaker. And is easier to knock out of true since its not holding as tightly as a Virgin crank would be. So as long as brand new cranks are available thats the best option. Once they are not available anymore then that's when we have no choice but to rebuild old cranks. I do like to check the true on the new crank before installing and if alls good, (usually is) alls good

[@ssse3123]

Why are the crank webs blue around pin area if it did not get hot supposedly?

[@keithalexander36]

Assembly process from the factory. You'll find that on many jap MX bikes including 4T

[@Jaypnn]

I have this same question.

[@UpAllNight91]

Yup. What Keith said. They heat the crank in that area very hot during the assembly of the lower connecting rod at the factory. Every YZ250 crank will have that blueing on the crank, brand out the box. Its normal.

[@michaelgarland579]

My bike giving me he'll again it a bad vibration I checked clutch side all gears are good now im thinking it's crank or crank bearing so I'm take it to my mechanic to hear it I ordered a new crank today it has 135 hours I have crank bearings in my room should I just keep driving it or pull motor an split cases if I go that far I'm replacing all bearings this dam bike I just did topend last weekend

[@UpAllNight91]

If you think the crank is going out I wouldnt ride it.

[@michaelgarland579]

@@UpAllNight91 hey I give u update took it to my mechanic he said it's not crank it's motor mount bushings is why it has bad vibration an I bought new crank cheap one on ebay karma crank so I'm having hard time finding bushings an I ordered new swing arm bushings yesterday what could I do in mean time I may take motor out put some kind of bushing in there