1988 Johnson 9.9 with the big secret died on the water. I need your help to solve this issue.

Now the 9.9 has a new secret I have to figure out. Ok, here is the deal. I so far have not figured out what is wrong with this outboard. I am going to have a drawing from the comments on who gets the issue I am having correct. The drawing will be held by the time part two of this video series is published. No more entries will be considered after part two is published. Your resolution has to be spot on as to what this issue was causing it not to be running properly as seen in this video. I will be replying to all comments that are eligible due to them being a "what could be wrong". Only the ones that are correct will be entered into the hat and a winner will be drawn. Good Luck and I am hoping we can get this thing running like it should soon. Some one just caught the mistake in my title and the motor is a 1988 and not a 1979
Contest for the $50 debit card give away ended 1/23/21. Thank you to everyone that participated.
Follow the Amazon link below to make your Amazon purchases, It cost you nothing and helps out my channel, Thanks again for watching: This is one of the products I use.
Amsoil 2 Stroke outboard oil
www.amazon.com...

[@ThePowerTeam364]

Your my favorite boat guy to watch, enjoy them from start to finish, I’m hoping to retire in 2 years and live near a lake, rebuilding a 50 hp mercury Your videos are awesome to guide me brother!!

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I really do appreciate that. I would love to find a spot to live that is within 5 miles of 5 lakes. Wouldn't that be dreamy.

[@mikegibson723]

I ordered a gasket kit from Amazon, installed it, and it ran great....for about 20 minutes. Then, it quit and would only start or run with the choke out. When I took it apart, my gaskets looked exactly like yours, basically rubber taco chips. There's no way I could have put them back in and had it start & run. Thankfully, when I rebuilt the carb I had saved all my original gaskets & seals. I reinstalled them, and the motor is running great again.

[@TheFrogfeeder]

If you have a leak in a fuel line or float chamber, you’ll see it and hear it when you squeeze the bulb. I’m wondering if you replaced fuel line before, and/or fuel pump... if you just clean/rebuild the carb without doing the lines and pump, sometimes gunk/deposits can dislodge from the lines or from in the pump or from the fuel tank itself, then that stuff gets right into the float valve and clogs it up, no matter how freshly rebuilt it is. I like to add an inline fuel filter before the pump. If you don’t clean/replace everything before the carb, or if your portable fuel tank has any gunk or filth in it, this will just keep happening. 2 stroke oil is dirty stuff, and fuel tanks should be cleaned out regularly especially after sitting and gas goes bad... Edit: I think the excessive gas running out the carb and in the pan is from you trying to restart it with the choke on a lot and from squeezing the bulb more than necessary also, we all do it...

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

good guesses

[@richt8297]

The muffler bearing is restricted causing to much back pressure. Also it could have blown the zuraidah valve causing a flutter in the reverb manifold.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Why didn't I think of that. Hey I did check the non skid discuss vamper. Turns out the tail light fluid on the trailer was low. Thanks for watching and the comment

[@christianousa9193]

Mr. Michael, now 2y after the video but knowledge is always welcome. I used to fly model airplanes, and used most of the time 2 stroke engines, you should take a look on this little engines, they are unique, I don't know about anything anymore simple than the 2 stroke glow engines. But anyways, when we go to start the Glow engines they don't have a choke, so we cover the carb with the finger and turn the prop to suck fuel since you choking it with your finger. But sometimes we have planes that the cowling does not allow access to the Carb to choke it so the next alternative is to cover the exhaust pipe also with your finger and turn the prop usually twice as much as you would covering the carb, and it will make the carb suck fuel too, so when I saw your symptoms that would be my guess, closed exhaust based on this that I told you. I'll watch part 2 now to see what happen.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Yep you will see what was the culprit on later videos. Thanks for watching

[@arnoldsatur]

It seems to me that the seals between the cylinders on the crankshaft centre is allowing the first feeding-pressure stroke of the pistons skirt to pass through and out of the carburetor, pushing the fuel 'out' of the carburetor instead of being drawn into the intake stroke below the pistons , Mixture in the combustion chambers will initially combust , but not sustain the engine running , That middle needle bearing with seals is untidy and needs to be replaced ! Humbly from me with good wishes too , Arnold ,

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

All great stuff to look into. Thanks for the comment and watching

[@fuzzyfultz]

I saw your first video on this engine. You do a great job and very particular with your work. Fuel issue, to much. Thank you.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thank you very much! and thank you for watching

[@rickerman1001]

to check the reed valves take the carb cover off and put your hand near the carb air intake, check for air pressure pushing out and watch for fuel being pushed out.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thanks for the tip

[@SuperMo41]

So I'm not sure if anyone has said it yet. But I'm going to guess that your reed valves are letting crank case pressure back thru the carb causing fuel that's flowing into the intake back thru the throat of the carb. Also might not be having exhaust thru the lower. Because of the crankcase pressure issue. Not sure if I'm correct about anything or not but hopefully it helps

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will be checking all this out. Watch the 2nd video on this outboard. It's about the tear down.

[@LivetofishOutboardRepair]

How was the compression? Also if you have a upper or lower crank shaft seal leak may cause power loss and stalling.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

It has good compression. I will be checking all the suggestions I'm getting. Thank you for watching and your comment.

[@primsolllineguy8689]

First of all ( IMO) the motor is a 9.9 that someone put a 15 hp carb on knowing that the motors are the same except more air through a larger throated carb! I have sent this numerous times and in each case the motor does not work properly. I have had no less than 8 of these motors my latest ring 9.9 2004 2 stroke. You have good skills and I enjoy your videos very much. 1. Never buy cheap parts!!! 2. With Johnson/Evinrude OB parts are still abundant. 3. That motor will run forever. 4. Find a 9.9 old carb, rebuild it and you will see all problems go away. I am in QC and have worked with most outboard manufacturers. Keep up the great videos. Ira

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

In this case it is a 15hp with a 9.9 cover on it. The serial number is for a 15hp. It has only had a cover swap. Thanks for watching

[@primsolllineguy8689]

@@Michaelsbackyardmarina hope you get it up and running. Thanks for your reply.

[@andyv82]

I have a 1988 Johnson 9.9. I haven't used it in a couple years but at that time it seemed to work fairly well, was only used to get my sailboat out of the marina. The boat wasn't in the water last year and I realized that I needed to redo gaskets on the carb. I've rebuilt it and installed but the throttle cam (that plastic wing on the starboard side above the carb that controls that output from the carb to the engine, barely touches the carb at full throttle. To rev the engine I need to pull that lever by hand. I can't see any way this could be out of alignment, I'm stumped. Any ideas?

[@richardcranium5839]

you need to pressure test the crankcase and check for leaks. it may be a crack in the case a reed valve or a crank seal. i suspect since its spitting gas the leak will be in the reed valve area. may be a valve reed or the plate it mounts on. the combustion pressure as the piston drops is blowing out the carb shooting the gas out. thats why you see the gas in the cowling. also explains why there is diminished bubbles out the exhaust into the tank. when it warms up the crack gets bigger and also reduces the fuel pumps effectiveess. it will act like its just running out of gas.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Great suggestions. Thank you for watching and commenting

[@terryswails1191]

I did the same with my 15 evinrude, bought 2 cheap ebay carb rebuild kits and they failed, a fishing buddy of mine said get an omc rebuild kit, so I did, and it was right at $40 , but it worked perfectly, so cheaper is not always better . Thanks for the videos

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thanks for the info

[@chibigwendal]

Check your fuel pump, if a diaphragm pump gets enough fluid or oil stuck behind it, it can hydraulically force fuel past the tapping valve. The reason diaphragm pump is used in these motors and most small engines is the fuel won't give, but the air on the engine side does. So it fills the bowl quickly when empty but does not force extra fuel in when full.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thank you for your comment and ideas. Thank you for watching

[@zzzgz5]

Haney's Garage is on point. You've got a Reed valve problem. When it's trying to run, you'll likely see it spitting fuel out of the carburetor throat.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Ok, Thank you for the comment and watching.

[@mattbenson6435]

Coil pack or CDI has a slight crack and will short out as it get warm. I had the same thing happen to my pontoon boat 9.9 Johnson of the same year. Replaced the coil pack and CDI and solved the issue.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Good stuff. Thank you for watching and for the comments

[@thomashuskey3531]

Did you put the rubber hose back on , for the fuel ?

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

yes, Thank you for watching and commenting

[@schwy6899]

there were 2 things I noticed when you reassembled the carb, the red fiber gasket that goes under the brass float needle seat looked loose, the kit comes with 2 one fits the bowl drain plug and one fits the needle seat you may have installed the wrong one, also you didn't flip the carb and measure the float drop you only leveled the float

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will look into those items. Thank you for the comment and thank you for watching

[@brandonelliott2237]

Like many others have said, the reed valves need to be checked, put a thin piece of paper over the hole behind the carb when the carb is removed, turn it over and see if it sucks the paper in(reeds functioning well, creating negative pressure) or if air/fuel flows out(positive pressure) your reeds are leaking/not sealing properly. Since you need to take the powerhead off to tighten the bolts for the tiller mount you will have easy access to remove the reed valve cover, check the gaskets around the reeds as well, on the front and back of the reed plate, I have seen some motors that have sat a while build up ethanol crud(white powdery stuff) under there, even if you're not running ethanol in it, someone probably did before you were working on this motor. Make sure the tiny screen/valve in the reed plate is not clogged or blocked as well. One other thought on the carb is the slow speed circuit, I am not exactly sure on the newer carbs(later 80's) but there are passages that can become blocked that enable the slow speed circuit to function properly in addition to simply adjusting the slow speed needle. I had an older 15hp carb I was working on, I thought it was clean but it turned that some of the slow speed passages from the bowl to the slow speed needle were blocked and causing a similar pooling of gas to occur under the carb.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Great loads of information, much appreciated. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment

[@rockporttigger7138]

First issue is; if fuel is dumping out of the carb you likely have a stuck/sunk float, or it's bent, or the pin is grabbing with the float down and/or float is cracked and filling with fuel. So when the motor turns over it just sumps pure gas and dumps it in the throat, and then pours out the intake. The bowl has a level mark on it so make sure when you replace it bend it if you have to get it to set level in the bowl. It has to move up and down freely and set perfect level. Note, you can adjust a bowl by setting slightly down and thinner jetting for high altitude. The second issue is those motors have a thermostat. If your running along and the motor just dies once it's warm, or it just up and dies, or simply doesn't want to start, the thermostat is sticking or needs replacement. The lack of bubbles and pissing are the indicator for this issue. The motor will shutdown to protect it from burning up. This is in direct in relation to my next point. . . Thirdly, check for vacuum leaks and vacuum switch operation. On many Johnson's and Evinrude's of the era there's a vacuum switch that has an orange/yellow wire descending from under the fly wheel to a vacuum switch, usually and inch or so wide with a cyclic top and male wire connector. It's basically hidden kill switch. My 28HP 63' Super Seahorse has this feature. If there is no water present there is no vacuum. The switch grounds out the ignition because it's naturally in closed position. I know this is electronic, but if you have an intermittent vacuum this will be part of the problem and most don't connect the dots between the two. You can disconnect the wire to test this possible problem/remove it from the list of potential issues. The water vacuum opens the circuit. I know you changed out the water pump. Check that also, just because it's intertwined with the thermostat and vacuum. Good luck! Rockport Tigger

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Lots of stuff to consider. Thank you for commenting and watching

[@mikepondiscio9916]

I believe you may have an exhaust issue. have you checked the lower unit for exhaust Blockage?

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

no blockage for sure.

[@faitmann1]

The Carb bowl is cracked ! Had it happen to me.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I have suspected that myself. dog gone plastic stuff. Thanks for watching.

[@kingbernad7345]

Michael the problem is not in the carb. You are getting sparks but it does not also mean that the ignition is good. Whats happening is that you have erratic firing thats why the fuel accumulates in the carb and over flows. Simple thing to do is to replace the CDI. Another way is to use a timing gun. Put a mark on the TDC of cyl 1 and TDC of cyl 2. You should only be seeing the TDC1. If you are seeing TDC2 then you definitely have erratic firing. I hope this helps. Good luck!

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thank you for the suggestions. It may be the solution. Thanks for watching and commenting

[@marklaracey6714]

When are you going to get the 9.9 video done part 2? Haven't seen it yet.

[@renemougaard2333]

Hey Great vids 👍 Did u take a look at the thermostat? I had similar problem on 15hp foustroke, Kept pouring Gasolin and eventually choked. So i did some research on it, and everyone Said to check The thermostat. So i changed it for a brand new, and works great again. Really cheap fix. I hope u g’et it fixed soon

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will be checking it out for sure. Stay tuned

[@michaelvanwagoner40]

Does the carb leak when using the primer bulb? Or just when cranking the motor? First would mean float, needle, carb bowl problem. Second I would guess reed valves.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I'm going to have to look closer when priming to see. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@markgroves2966]

My Guess : Plate/Bracket fell out in exhaust housing causing exhaust blockage. Also plastic float bowl warped. FYI - I had the same issue on my 90hp Evinrude after using an Amazon (China) carb kit. Just like yours, the float bowl gaskets were all swollen causing the floats to hang. OEM kit solved this issue. Lesson learned.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Ok sounds like a good place to start. Thank you for commenting and watching

[@danmanthe9335]

Did the same thing with a motorcycle I bought. Chinazon carb kit and the bike would not run correctly. Got some genuine parts from Keihin and now it runs like a champ

[@haneysgarage2631]

I think it’s a missing or stuck reed valve blowing gas backwards out the carb

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

We shall find out. I want quit till it's running like new. Thanks for watching.

[@arnoldsatur]

That is what I just wrote , but a little more ,

[@supercrew63]

exhaust is blocked and possibly float is not shutting needle and seat. blow through inlet with carb upside down to see if it is working. being that it ran as well as it did before the outing seems to eliminate reed valves unless there is crap stuck in one. use the primer bulb to see if bowl cap is cracked or warped.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

great suggestions. Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching

[@mp3625]

I'm working with the same type of motors. Carburator fill pipe is it leaking? Bubbles? Would have wished you would have video it? Change carburator with a working one? To see?

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I got parts coming. Hope to get this one up and doing what it was engineered to do.

[@johnzudans7724]

Reed valve may be damaged and allowing fuel to flow backwards. Just a guess

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

that would suck, but it don't scare me. Thank you for watching and your comment

[@johnzudans7724]

@@Michaelsbackyardmarina since you did a nice job overhauling the carb but are still getting the gas one way that could happen is backflow thru the reed. I’m not sure how hard it is to get to the reed valve but on my yamahas it’s the next set of screws after the carb. Anyway should be easy to inspect.

[@gorp27]

You have strong spark but it is intermittent and at 4:03 to 4:04 you are getting a short\arc at the lower left coil boot but that is most likely due to the plug not being in that plug wire. You should never crank an engine without a spark plug or tester attached to all the plug wires, it can damage the ignition system. Not enough info to diagnose fuel leak. Need to clean up and dry all spilled fuel than pressurize fuel system using tank primer bulb. if it leaks with out starting the engine it is a problem with the carb, if no leak the problem is elsewhere and most likely due to the loose handle hardware falling out and clogging the exhaust. Don't forget a 2 stroke uses reed valves instead of timed mechanical valves and has ports for the intake and exhaust that are both open during a part of the cycle and can effect proper reed valve operation if you have too much back pressure in the exhaust. So I am leaning towards a restricted exhaust causing the engine to die after just a few seconds of running just like a carboned up spark arrestor will do to a weed whacker engine.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Lots of good insight. I will be digging into it soon.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

New here first of all. I think you have multiple issues. First of all I believe your float is not set right. You set the level in the open position but not the closed. Upside-down there is a setting to or your float won't close the needle. Basically your float is hitting the bottom of the float bowl before the needle is seated in the seat. You can test it by blowing into the fuel barb upright to see if air is going in then turn it upside-down and blow to see if it won't take air. If it does you need to reset the float level. Second you need to replace those forward rubber mounts and last there is something blocking your exhaust which needs to be cleared out unfortunately. Take her apart. Safety on these motors is a must like you pointed out so they don't start in gear or WOT. My brother in law lost his life in his 12ft aluminum with a borrowed kicker he was not familiar with. His 80 year old dad and a 21 year old friend was with him and he was standing up trying to start the motor out in the middle of the lake. He forgot it was in gear and the motor was at a far turn angle when it started flipping the boat completely over. His dad and friend were ok hanging onto the boat but Pat was nowhere to be found. Divers finally found him that afternoon down a 100ft. Look like the boat when it flipped hit his head and knocked him out. Also nobody knew if he knew how to swim? Not even his dad? None of them had life jackets back in 74' kinda like seat belts in vehicals back then. They were around but either not installed or used.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thank you for the insight. Sad story about your brother in law. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.

[@fuzzyfultz]

I just rebuilt my carbs on my Evinrude 88 special 4 cylinder a month ago. Put all together ran great first time out. I did not replace the fuel lines within the engine. Second time out, same issues. Took carbs back off and found tiny particle of rubber. Replaced those fuel lines inside motor and so far all is well. Had already replaced all other fuel Lines. Been out twice. So when rebuilding carbs, always replace the fuel lines inside crowling. The kits I purchased when decent kits, but not OEM. The kit had little bit of gasket issue that I trimmed, but good caskets. All is well. My guess is the rebuild kits no good.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thanks for the comment. I put all new fuel lines under the hood prior to this video.

[@rafjaf2567]

Did you put in the check valve?

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

check valve?

[@danielrobert7181]

Sounds like a defective fuel line (pin holed, splitted or loosely connected). Lack of exhaust bubbles might be caused by a leak at the junction between the powerhead and the exhaust tube due to those shot motor mounts. Good luck !

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Could be it, Thanks for the comment and watching

[@asmitty8426]

Possibly exhaust leak. Does it run with the hood off?

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

had the hood off in the video and it runs and dies.

[@kyletracey5819]

When u rebuilt did u put new needle and seat? You could of put seat in upside down. That would keep needle from shutting fuel off. Some seats have a indentation ring that needs to go in the correct way. Happened to me once. Got over flow fuel pissing out

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

New seat and needle installed. thank you for watching and commenting

[@kyletracey5819]

@@Michaelsbackyardmarina welcome. I did same but seat was upside down. That little crease in the seat made it over flow. Kept needle up a microscopic bit ugggg. Cheers

[@hunter19709]

Wrong jets with carb upgrades to make it a 15hp ?

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Ok

[@timmymcgrath6106]

Didn't see any rubber seal between the needle and seat. Remove carb turn upside down and try blow in fuel inlet pipe. Hope it helps

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

thank you for watching and the comment

[@tommyjackson6216]

Mike love your show cleaned my carb lost my low end needle setting were is a good place to start ?? 9.9

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

1 1/2 turns from bottomed out

[@sethmccown3299]

I'm guessing the carb bowl/body is cracked.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

That seems to be the consensus. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@JohnnyL6975]

Did you put some form of additive in the fuel

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

there is no additive in the fuel. Just regular gas no alcohol.

[@michaela1655]

Water pump impellers sometimes come apart and bits of rubber block cooling passages. I would think you could probe the passages and see if there is any debris in there.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thank you for your comment and watching

[@thomashuskey3531]

What about the needle valve to the float ? I don't know man ...

[@WhatsCrackin904]

I'm looking at that carb thinking that's not a 79 lol. Knowing its an 88, they have redesigned a stronger plastic cover to help prevent the cracking and warping. But I would say exhaust blockage. I almost look forward to my first time pulling a powerhead, but also hope to never have to. Enjoy your info, it's helpful. I recently picked up an 89 15hp that I am trying to tune myself.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

You are the first to catch my title mistake. It is a 1988. I don't know what I was thinking. Stay tuned. I think this repair is going to get interesting.

[@TheFrogfeeder]

My 2nd guess is the fuel pump itself. Sometimes the diaphragm is just strong enough to run good in a barrel with no load, but won’t have enough “umph” for a boat on a lake... Go on amazon, get you a new Chinese-made pump for $8, and put new new fuel lines. You’ll have to check the float valve again AFTER you change the rest... I use those pumps on everything, the oldest I got is about 2 years old, I haven’t had one fail yet, but I keep an extra on board just in case. I just heard you say you don’t think it’s fuel pump, but for 8$ youll prove myself right.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

good guesses

[@dstolarc]

Reed valves, cracked crankcase, cracked reed block, blown reed gasket. I also think your flywheel key is sheared or cracked.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will check it out. Thank you for your comment and watching

[@brandonelliott2237]

I do like the idea of checking the flywheel and key for timing issues

[@bobbrown118]

I think timing is off or moved from where you set it. Cheers BB

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will look into that. Thank you for watching and commenting

[@AceCombat6842]

Yep check your timing. I'm betting you spun the key!! If it backfired or the flywheel bolt wasn't tight enough. Causes no run and gas pooling back out carb throat

[@bobbyandras6630]

Please tell me were I can order parts and gasket kits for my motor I have a 1974 model

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

marineengine.com

[@gunfisher4661]

Crowley Marine is one of my favorites.

[@lilbobber15]

I couldn’t tell you why it’s leaking fuel because I’m not there but I have a similar motor and I had trouble getting my running too until I figured it out. There is a low speed idle fuel mixture screw on the carb. I have to adjust every time I go out. Once you figure it out, these motors run strong. Try that.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

thank you for commenting and thanks for watching

[@davidauld7638]

Where's the adjustment screw located

[@jonirish323]

Any chance there is a crack in the carb housing?

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will be looking into that. Thank you for the comment and thanks for watching

[@tomgochenour8435]

I noticed when you replaced the float you didn't test to see if it actually shut off the fuel supply. I like to blow through the fuel inlet of the card to prove that the float valve actually works. The float valve seat may have trash in it or be distorted or the needle itself may be distorted.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will be checking it out. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@faitmann1]

The fuel bowl is made of a hard plastic Furmicalite and they crack from over tightening!

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

dad gum plastic parts. I will be looking it over carefully. Thank you for watching and your comments

[@mistersnapon]

I too noticed an extra spark down by the power pack!!

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will be checking it out. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@horseshoejerry]

I think you have a couple of issues. Original problem is a bad coil. Additional problems were created by the cheap rebuild kit and during the process of rebuilding the carb, the bowl cracked during installation. Bad coils cause unburned fuel and resembles a carb issue. Try running it in the dark and you will likely see sparks coming from the coil to ground. Gets worse when the engine gets warm.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will be looking at that. Good idea for the in the dark checking.

[@johnb5519]

It's good to have a fuel bottle with a line attached to the carb to do a bench test for leaks. That way you can see all around where it may be leaking from.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will have to try that out. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@tyronebrown9409]

I still would like to buy one of those cooter heads 9.9

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

get er done, thanks for watching

[@timothyhatcher8673]

Could be crack on carb or fuel float sticking or float bend down to much needs adjustment

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will be studying the carb with a magnifying glass for sure. Thank you for watching and your comment

[@roycuster1462]

Hello Michael, it seems to me that you have something wrong in the induction system. You have might want to check for air going In and out of the carburetor. From there I will check for a cracked reed block or bent or missing reeds. This would explain loss of power, bubbles in exhaust. The worst is the cases seam is a failure

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thanks for the tips!

[@hunter19709]

Love your videos my grandfather had one of them and did the same thing it was the Coil was bad when the engine got hot

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I could see that happening.

[@frederic2080]

Do you have the possibily to change thé carburator ? I think that it will a problèm on the top part on your carburator. The old version of carburator of 9.9/15 don't have this type of problèm

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I currently don't have another carb. Could be it, Thanks for the comment and watching

[@frederic2080]

@@Michaelsbackyardmarina thanks. The fuel leak make think to this possibility. A little test to confirm this, inject wd40 / start pilot on the carb when thé motor start to run. If thé motor continue to run, it's thé carb

[@DunLogan]

You have an exhaust restriction or blockage. Since the air/fuel can’t go in the engine it being blown back out the carburetor and spraying fuel into the engine cover. Take the power head off and check for carbon fouling.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I think I do to. I will rip into and find out.

[@Mnoutboards]

1st thing that i see is in your video at 4:04 when testing spark is that the top cylinder coil is leaking spark. I will keep watching.

[@Mnoutboards]

2nd problem is that it is running on one cylinder at 4:55 then i see that you have one of them super cheep carb kit's installed, I have been seeing a crap ton of problems with them the gaskets dissolve in gasoline.

[@Mnoutboards]

3rd at7:07 your float level is set too high.

[@Mnoutboards]

So after the carb rebuild it's still only running on one cylinder, and I would have put that cork float in rather then that Chinese one! also did not see in the video of you reassembling the top of the carb, and did you check the carb vents? usually if gas is poring out the throat of the carb a vent is plugged and if it is poring out of the vent it's the needle and seat or float.

[@Mnoutboards]

So over all I see two main problems. No1 is the top cylinder ignition coil is leaking spark. No 2 is there is still a problem with the carburetor. The engine is not running enough to build back pressure to get exhaust bubbles at this point. And the slop that you have in the Handel is not the motor mounts it’s where the Handel mounts to the swivel tube it’s about a hour job. And FYI my channel mnoutboards is one of my channels my main channel is chrysleroutboarddude.

[@chrysleroutboarddude]

@@Mnoutboards now that I have watched the video is is not a reed problem it's not a back pressure problem it is a spark and carb problem. if you like i could make a video on the carb and handle problem I know I have a motor with the same problem. also you pull the gear case then the the throttle and then the 6 power head bolts to gain access to the motor mounts and swivel tube.

[@pedrobarrios2203]

Look at the start of the video when you start to test for spark. You have a spark coming out of what I think is the lower coil. Under your left hand. Something is grounding. Coil area maybe?

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thanks for the info. Yes I noticed that too. I didn't have a spark plug in that one and the spark seeked out a ground. thanks for watching

[@pedrobarrios2203]

@@Michaelsbackyardmarina More over, I think the fact you noticed of no bubbles might lead you to the issue. Fuel is backing up and out. It reminds me of the old potato up the tailpipe to mess around with my brother's car. Took him awhile to figure why the car would only run for seconds. Haha!

[@zolilipi1282]

Yes I think that also! That coil will be the main problem!

[@timrogers6694]

Possible your float bowl gasket and float bowl clip that holds the inlet needle isn't going down enough to bottom.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Could be. I will be checking out all suggestions. Thanks for watching and thank you for leaving a comment

[@Showmethefish]

The gasket swell was from the seafoam contraption you used...or a carb cleaner

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will check it out

[@greggscott3664]

Thank you for doing real time. I'm visual and starting and stopping allows me to figure it out. After taking my 1990 8hp evinrude to XXXXX Marine shop in Portland Or. they charged me $600.00 to tell me they couldn't find the part to fix it. Yeah.... right. I was born at night, just not last night. They'd always done me right, taking my 120 Evinrude Pump in for service. Not knowing or ever working on engines of any kind, I'll try to fix what I can my self with all the help out there on KZbin. No integrity or Honesty anymore.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I hear ya brother.

[@martinadamczewski3975]

When you put the float in I didn't see you put a needle valve in before the float

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

needle was in there. Thanks for watching

[@Thewrightstuff777]

I’m too new to have a good idea...but seems that the carb is being flooded and the needle and float aren’t stopping the fuel.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Could be it, Thanks for the comment and watching

[@artmartin1913]

Bolt/plate fell off and is blocking the exhaust. That's forcing the exhaust back through the engine and out the carb. That's pushing the fuel out the carb and distorted the first rebuild gasket.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

That wasn't the case here. Thanks for watching and commenting

[@michaeltooley7573]

Is it possible the carb casting has a crack in it? Those small casting if dropped at some point by previous owner or who ever could leave a hairline crack somewhere!! Try hooking a pressurized fuel line directly to the carb and see if gas comes out where it ain`t suppose to!!

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Could be it, Thanks for the comment and watching

[@fishlovme]

Wild guess of course, I don't work on these motors and hence why I watch your channel. I think there's a screw missing somewhere. Find another carb just like it and check that every screw and gasket is accounted for.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will be checking it out. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@ckdk88]

I think the exhaust may be clogged, or in someway be your problem. I would try and take a piston to the bottom of a stroke so you open the exhaust port, and the blow compressed air in to tjek if exhaust gasses can escape freely. When you do this, chek your reedvalves do not leak. Be careful not to use too much pressure, it could damage your reedvalves.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Could be it, Thanks for the comment and watching

[@michaelbax9630]

Has to be something with the float and needle, putting the float in some gas or water in a test bucket to see if it gets waterlogged and if its not the float check the travel of the float to see of the needle sets properly, next i would check the fuel pump, fuel lines. That coil could also be the problem see how it was arcing somewhere else making the engine misfire creating the back pressure. It also could be the exhaust system be blocked be something but hopeful you find the problem and is a simple fix best of luck

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thanks for the comments. Some good stuff here. Thank you for watching

[@dustinclark8186]

The plastic top of carb cracks alot. Replaced all of mine no leaks now

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Yes

[@kenwolf1056]

My guess is that you have a leaky reed valve, or the crank case has a crack near the front.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

That wouldn't be good. Thanks for the comment and watching

[@howardschleinkofer4946]

Carb bowl is cracked. or exhaust is blocked

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thanks for the info and the comment. Thank you for watching as well.

[@tankdog03ify]

Pretty tight on the screws

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thanks for watching

[@hankcowart3562]

Good luck with this issue. Has me interested in what actually fixes the problem.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Hey thanks for watching. I'm puzzled myself at this point. Got to step away for a day or two and regroup...Hoping to get really good suggestions from the viewers.

[@tomgochenour8435]

No bubbles means a blocked exhaust. Check to see if the exhaust valves (reed valves) are stuck closed.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will be checking it out. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@Showmethefish]

I noticed a spark jump off the coil wire to block where it shouldn't be on the first spark check

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

It did

[@eddills1541]

It is the carb top plate gasket had all the same issues on a 15hp johnson 1982 model i used the wrong gasket in the rebuild ed from nc. There are 3 diferent ones and the one that solved my issue did not look exactly like the oem one that came out of the carb.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will consider your suggestion. Maybe that is the fix. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@eddills1541]

@@Michaelsbackyardmarina if im not mistaken was the top plate gasket with the open y shaped toward the front of the carb that worked for me

[@johnfraser6539]

You need to loosen those 2 bolts and the are 3 bolts under that to fix that loose handle

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Yep, thanks for the tip, got it all fixed a while back

[@u2boome]

Change the impeller, the motor is getting to hot causing the fuel to vapor lock .

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Nope, Cracked bowl and warped upper plate on the carb. New thermostat held head temp at 140F

[@mp3625]

Luv watching these trouble shooting videos great job.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thank you so much. I enjoy trying to make things run like they are suppose to.

[@paullahocki2539]

Hair line crack on the float bowl

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Could be it, Thanks for the comment and watching

[@Jimmyzb36]

Might be crank seals. Good luck.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Thanks for the comment and thank you for watching. Could be I'm considering all comments as a possibility

[@Jimmyzb36]

@@Michaelsbackyardmarina yes! You need to find the fuel leak. Remember,,, Crankcase induction requires a sealed environment. Just a thought.

[@joemartin6439]

Is the plastic bowl cracked

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Yes sir that's what it is.

[@akejohansson6650]

Hello I think the float needle does not close tightly. And that the float is level. that is my idea from sweden :))

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

We will be looking into that. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@macprince5667]

It sounds like a cracked housing in thc carburetor. good luck!

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Fingers crossed! that would be cool if that's it. Thank you for watching and the comment

[@ericgarlock9236]

From what I saw is there is definitely a blockage in the exhaust housing causing back pressure in which is would push the fuel back through the carb definitely a blockage in the exhaust.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Great point! Could be it, Thanks for the comment and watching

[@uhoh71]

I think you blew a crank seal. Look in the cowling and see if there is a oil ring sprayed on the inside. If not, it may be the lower seal. Also, check the flywheel key. I think the trouble started when the cheap Chinese rubber gasket hung the float open causing it to suck way too much fuel into the crankcase. That may have blown the seal and could have sheared the flywheel key.

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will do that. Could be it, Thanks for the comment and watching

[@alexdesslin]

cool !

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

for

[@pallettime]

Mate it's behind the carburetor The reed valves that controls the air and fuel, order a new one or sometimes they can be reversed and work. Definitely the reed valves behind the carburetor

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Turns out the reeds are fine. It was a warped top plate on the carb and it also had a cracked bowl on the carb. Thanks for the watching and commenting.

[@whiskerdreams7146]

Sounds like cool breakdown!

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I'm guessing you meant coil. Noted. Thank you for watching and your comment

[@bill2873]

Looks like the cooling water failed to circulate, bad impeller, engine overheated, and pistons and or cylinder walls got scored. Check your compression .

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

Wow lots of stuff to check. Thanks for watching and thank you for the comment

[@patmorahan9719]

Check to see if there is a o_ring gasket under the float needle valve it may be broken

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

I will look into that. Thank you for the comment and watching.

[@dewaynehawks5928]

When you rebuilt the carb you didn’t put the filt gasket and washer on the high idle rod

[@Michaelsbackyardmarina]

interesting