2014 Ford F150 Turbo Coolant Leak Fix!!

I had a 2014 Ford F150 in the shop with leaking turbo coolant lines. I replaced both fittings on each turbo and got the leak fixed up. Correction This is a 2014 Ford F150.

[@trouthunter22]

Step 1 - Remove Cab with fenders and grill attached. No contortion required and no need to pull engine. This answers your question of why Ford (and other manufacturers) do things the way they do. Ford mechanics pull the cab of an f-series in 45 minutes. An hour 30 minutes round trip. The disassembly is much easier but more importantly the re-assemble can be done in a manner that allows you to visually verify that everything (o-rings, clips, hoses, etc…) is siliconed, aligned and fitted properly. Reduces the chances for future leaks. Also allows you to address “others” issues that may need attention while the cab is off.

[@TheBloatedPony]

Thank you sir. Good technique with the truck and the camera. Easy to watch and listen.

[@joshua87655]

Thank you so much for this video. Discovered today my passenger side is leaking so I'm going to tackle it soon. I just have to get the parts from ford. Thank you!

[@Mytexas2011]

Thanks for a very good video, & including parts. Still debating if to do this myself or have a shop tackle this one.

[@robschwiesow]

What did you decide?

[@jaandel1]

You can remove it w/o taking engine just remove upper intake and cross coolant pipe then you have some room to do it.. unfortunately when you remobe any pipe form the fitting the fitting is damage... you always must change te fittings and dont forget to add uv collant leak finder to see any leakage

[@sofistk8ddd1]

I have a 2017 Expedition with a 3.5 litter engine. I had both driver and passenger leaks. I started with the passenger. You will need a really good light, preferably with a rotating magnet. Remove negative battery cable. Jack up car, jack stands for safety, removed the upper inner wheel well...lots of plastic tabs and 5.5 mm socket...maybe even 8 mm...or 10 mm. Remove the engine plastic tabs closest to the front of the car. I also removed one of the air intakes that leads to the turbo and loosened the other one to have more turbo wiggle room later. I had both turbo fittings leaking. I half took off the turbo. Changed both while off. I removed 3 nuts off starter, not the electrical connections. I removed the 2 exhaust bolts. I removed the 3 manifold bolts. You will need to get the 3 manifold bolts and the triangular manifold gasket if you don't want to reuse the old ones. I got 3 manifold bolts and the gasket. Remove the 2 bolts to the oil line. I did not fully removed it. I was able to wiggle the turbo loose to where I could change both turbo fittings. Wear gloves if you don't want finger cuts when handling the exhaust part of the turbo. You will need a 3/8ths 45 torx and 50 torx. Also long extensions and a wobble extensions...and universal joint sockets, both 3/8 and 1/2 inch.... They helped. Be careful with the brake lines as they are near when wiggling the turbo out. Once everything was loose I removed the tang with a long pick from both sides of the turbo. I used a pry bar to gently wiggle both lines out of where it sat. Be patient. I am a novice and it took 1.5 days to do the passenger side. Breaks here and there. The best of luck! Tomorrow I will do the easy side...the drivers side. I only have 1 fitting leaking, closest to the wheel well. So that should take me an hour or so.

[@Kcuevas4]

Thanks for the great video! I believe i have the same leak :( I'll have to diagnose it on the weekend

[@pmcleod6844]

my 2014 has same leak..after some consideration I determined its beyond my capabilities..I'm calling the shop for a quote tomorrow..i'll post the quote for viewers..great video! thx

[@robschwiesow]

Did you end up having the dealer do this repair? What was the cost if so?

[@pmcleod6844]

$378, (2hrs labor 258, part 121).. Ontario, Canada, ford dealership

[@dmeyer6994]

@@pmcleod6844 not bad

[@paulgammel9217]

The mechanic i just left quoted me 18 hours in labor alone. At 150 an hour, I left!

[@davidrichmond6358]

Thank you AHG for the video. I've got a 2011 (130K) and have to top off about a quart of coolant every 3 weeks or so depending on driving. Plan to put in a die to find the small leak. Really hoping it's not the turbo's.

[@hundredeyes5148]

was it the turbos?

[@youtubelikes3943]

👍🏾Great video appriciate it thanks to you i know what parts i need cause my 2012 f150 ecoboost leaking on the driver side

[@jbhall4776]

I was literally watching this video to see you remove the rear coolant lines and you chose not to after saying you were at first. Glad I fast forwarded through this!

[@robschwiesow]

Sorry about that man, after looking at it more, and seeing that they weren't leaking the customer decided against it. I have been told you can get them without much effort, just by laying on the engine and getting to them, I have also been told you either have to lift the cab or engine up. Again I apologize for not coming through for you on this.

[@goodvibes7104]

Brought my 2015 Transit 3.5 eco to the mechanic for a slow coolant leak somewhere. He told me one of my rear turbo lines has condensation on it and is prob causing the slow coolant leak. He told me unfortunately it was going to be roughly 8 hrs labor to get to and would cost around 1300 to replace all the lines. I do have 304k miles on the van.

[@stevekenagy616]

Good video. You explain things really well. Makes me think maybe...maybe I could do this. My 13 is leaking on passenger side.

[@robschwiesow]

Thanks my friend! I think you can do it. Just be patient and stay organized!

[@gantye88]

Hey Man thanks a lot for this video! I am having the exact same issue with my 2014 f-150. Depending on what my mechanic says I will either pay him to do it or try to do it myself

[@robschwiesow]

Glad I could be of some help! Hope you can get it done and save some money at the same time!

[@Thebassmaster1988]

The dealer wanted $5200 to change out the turbos, coolant lines and fittings while lifting the cab off. Needless to say, they can F# off. If they just fixed what actually needs to be fixed with minimal labor, people might actually trust them and agree to have the work done. I think most people are smart enough to know the dealers are running a scam on every level of repairs. We laugh at them but they are still making $ off people who don't know any better. If you do the right thing instead of screwing your customers, they will be more likely to let you perform the work, you will not make more money by screwing a few people over, you'll do very well if you fix what really needs fixing for a reasonable price.

[@jt7559]

Not a 2015.. maybe 2014? Thanks for the video none the less brother!

[@trentc7724]

Great Video!

[@kennyheal6914]

Does it matter which way the oil tube gasket goes on?

[@franksikorski5390]

@American Heritage Garage, you can change the fittings without lifting the cab/removing the engine, and you should do it with a new line or you'll end up with another leak. I would hate to see you have to dig into it twice for a simple fitting change!!

[@robschwiesow]

Appreciate the info, recently spoke with the customer, the truck is long gone, timing chain took a crap, so he had a new engine put in the truck and traded it in!

[@CamelGarage]

I guess you can get to the back ones taking the intake off, I’m currently researching how to do this for my grandparents 2011 and found another video (no as detailed) showing the way I stated.

[@FleetTech97]

Did you get it figured out??

[@CamelGarage]

@@FleetTech97 it’s those quick connect fittings the leak. They have a little o ring inside that goes bad they’re a couple bucks online but there’s 3 different part numbers you get to choose from.

[@brucesherryh9587]

Has anyone done the coolant line repair on a 2017 or newer?? How difficult was the coolant line removal/installation? Looking at the coolant line parts, it appears Ford changed the coolant line fitting design to eliminate the clips and quick connects. These tube ends now have the o-ring fitting welded to the tube and a flange bolt attachment similar to the oil tube attachment. Is this correct???

[@meinekestafford5612]

is there any trick to pull out the coolant line on passenger side without left the cap. please if any one had his issue before i am stuck in it?

[@Justin-of8om]

I have coolant leaks for both turbos on a 2013 3.5l eco. Quote from shops are about $1983 for passenger side and $1714 for drivers side. Would I be able to just replace the fitting in the turbo for the lines or do you have to replace the lines too? I can't justify this much for this old of a truck! I'm a DIY person but I don't have another vehicle and the place to do it all. The biggest thing I've replaced on this truck is the water pump at 90k but that was easy!

[@paulmccutcheon]

@AHG - really great video and tips.....I’ve got everything off (including warped exhaust manifolds). How much movement was there on the coolant lines going from the front (outward facing) of the turbos to the back of the motor? I’ve got both mine moved up out of the way like you did (and tie wrapped them), but boy they really seem floppy. Really worried about them leaking after everything is put back together. Those rear fittings really look like a mother to get out. Wonder if I should try it from the top side using the description from Puckgrinder85.

[@robschwiesow]

They did have quite a bit of movement, I was pretty nervous about them leaking as well, I only wanted to move them as much as needed, because I was concerned about damaging that o ring on the backside. The customer didn't want to pay for the work if it was needed, so we decided to cross that bridge if we came to it. As a matter of fact, I just saw him the other day, and it is still all good. I didn't look into the back o-rings in much depth, but off the hip they looked tough, some guys said it isn't bad, I guess I got lucky and didn't have to bother. Thanks for the comment

[@paulmccutcheon]

Thanks, I really appreciate the quick reply ! I guess I’ll do what you did, but the reason I don’t gamble is my luck is never 50 / 50. Fingers crossed.....

[@robschwiesow]

I will cross my fingers for you. Worst case, you will have to replace the fittings on the cylinder head. That should be achievable without disassembling what you just reassembled.

[@traylorkarttech4432]

When I did the passenger side manifold on my 2013 I found it to be much easier to just cut and replace the line that goes forward 8A520C

[@kansascityshuffle8526]

Did you have to burn those manifold bolts off? I see why guys pop the cab off to work on these.

[@traylorkarttech4432]

I found it easier to pull the exhaust out but also means you take out the trans cross member

[@ricardovelazquez1650]

How many 3.5 are running in the usa, how many have this problem ? I am want to buy a used f 150...

[@Xabier2.0]

Nice video. How was the condition of the intake impeller? Did it have a lot oil on it from the PCV system? Thank you.

[@robschwiesow]

Everything looked pretty good, the impeller was all good, no play in the bearings or anything. I didn't notice any excess oil build up or anything of that nature!

[@Xabier2.0]

@@robschwiesow awesome! thank you for your work.

[@Skul-Ski]

Quick question. Did you have to start by draining the coolant system and/or lowering oil level to keep from taking a coolant or oil bath or does dropping all those lines just leak out what is in the line? I have what you might call a passenger side leak in my 3.5 ecoboost, but mine is in a 2014 Lincoln MKS (aka Taurus SHO sleeper) so it's actually up against the firewall since the motor is in sideways.

[@robschwiesow]

I did drain the coolant and oil before I started.

[@IWrenchmobile]

Don’t need to pull cab or engine out to do the back side fittings.. Once you remove the inlet side on the turbo and drain all the coolant.. You’re going to climb over the engine bay and use the space in between the bulkhead and the engine.. there is a decent amount of space for hands & small tools once you remove the bracket that holds the backside of the engine cover.. Took me about 1 hour to do the drivers side I will note, that I used a 19MM stubby wrench while the pipe was still inside the fitting.. I did not want to waste time trying to get the clip off so I resorted to that.. Once that comes off.. install new fitting with a 19Mm socket then just push the pipe back in.. make sure to lube up to make installtion easier 👍🏼

[@sharphomesolutions1685]

Do you need to pull the turbo to replace the coolant fittings? It appears I only have a leak at one fitting, and don’t want to pull the turbo if necessary

[@robschwiesow]

I believe you can get to at least one of the fittings without removing the turbo. Might be a little tight but it could be done. I removed them for ease of access and video purposes.

[@crunchytacosupreme9371]

How much does this pay in labor?

[@hellsing198551]

How much would this cost sir?

[@joshuashahan3770]

These fitting are a pain in the ass on the passenger side. Sucks!!! About to start my third attempt to get this thing back together with not leaks.

[@robschwiesow]

It does suck pretty bad, takes some time. Once you get one side, the other side is way easier!!

[@mattforbis870]

@ahg is there any reason I couldn’t replace ONLY the coolant line fitting under the truck with the turbo still on the truck??

[@robschwiesow]

You probably could, just a different situation in this case!

[@ianpin5068]

So my 2014 is leaking coolant out of the drivers side as well however it's only when the truck is off. Is this bad o-rings on the turbos fittings most likely?

[@robschwiesow]

From my experiences it does tend to leak more when sitting, due to the fact that the coolant isn't flowing and just sitting in the lines

[@smotpoker15]

Pressure will seal o ring , once pressure stops , it will leak, eventually deteriorating the o ring completely

[@tinopina0106]

My passenger turbo fitting is leaking how much would you charge for a job like that ?

[@robschwiesow]

Sorry it took me so long to respond, I would charge around $850

[@ricardocorsa9077]

Great video thanks, Do you know the cost of getting that work done?I have the same lea,k I guess very common in ford f150

[@robschwiesow]

It is very common. I charged around $800.00 I believe a dealership is a bit more, maybe around $1500.00

[@ricardocorsa9077]

Are you in colorado lol ?

[@robschwiesow]

No, I am located in the midwest unfortunately

[@kevingeezy5176]

@@robschwiesow where in the Midwest? I'd be happy to be a customer

[@alexmartiez5658]

I have a question sir, where did you buy the parts?

[@robschwiesow]

All the parts were purchased from a Ford dealership

[@michaelpartida5155]

How much would a mechanic charge for a job like this?

[@marquisbradley4422]

Having an issue getting coolant line to click into connector on the top side of turbo ..... seems like there is an issue with the angle for some reason.... if I just grab an extra connector I have and simple click it in ... the coolant line goes on just fine.... but when the connector is on the turbo and I go to try to get the line to click into connector it will not click in....

[@jabrowens4834]

I'm having the same issue, what ended up being your solution? It's the last part to install in the whole job and I thought it'd be the easiest and I just can't get it on!

[@robschwiesow]

What I did was kept the turbo loose on the studs, that way you had some wiggle room between the turbo and the line to help get the proper angle. Same for the back side, but I was able to use a pry bar between the line and the block to add some pressure to get it to pop in. Don't forget to grease the o-ring on the line good. I hope this helps a little. Let me know if you get it!!

[@jabrowens4834]

@@robschwiesow I was able to get it in eventually after about 3 hours of trying different methods. Put it all back together and looks like BL3Z-6A968-A is now leaking 🤦‍♂️ on driver side... probably from so much movement. Any suggestions on how to replace this without pulling the whole turbo again and going through this all over?

[@robschwiesow]

I honestly don't think there is a better way to do it. If I recall correctly there is only the one fitting that is accessible with the turbo installed. Wish I could give you some better info than that buddy

[@charlys1219h]

OEM parts numbers please ???

[@Eaton_Customs]

Whats the size of the torxs bit for the oil line

[@robschwiesow]

Sorry for the late reply, it is a T45 Torx bit!

[@j7.....740]

Buying a gallon of coolant every two weeks is cheaper. Check the level every few days. Mines been leaking for 20k miles.

[@jbardon1234]

I made the ultimate mistake while removing the turbo I bent the coolant line and this made reinstalling a f*ing nightmare to get the front coolant line TO SNAP back in. BE CAREFUL WITH THE COOLANT LINES TAKE YOUR TIME. Update just fired the Expedition up and ran it for 20 min no leaks yet which is surprising due to the fact the coolant line was super loose before I snapped the other end into the turbo.

[@raymondpruitt5421]

I like how he shows taking the Y-pipe off

[@robschwiesow]

I'm confused, one comment you like something and the next you say it is not a good video. I appreciate your input regardless, is there anything I could do to make my content better? I still have access to a similar vehicle, if there is something specific you would like me to show you.

[@raymondpruitt5421]

@@robschwiesow yes show everyone how to take off the Y- pipe it is hard to do nobody shows that they only show 2015 and up. Please show what tools you need for the job people are going think it’s easy . Even the ford techs don’t like doing the 2011/2014 truck with the 3.5

[@robschwiesow]

@@raymondpruitt5421 I will make an update video

[@raymondpruitt5421]

@@robschwiesow thank you I did like how you put part numbers on video I loosen the cab bolts to get a little more room

[@Rob-pz6zl]

what is causing so much condensation dripping underneath the vehicle and coming out in the exhaust an f-150 3.5 2014 No coolant loss or oil It is now dripping from the Turbo on driver's side oil Looks like it's the bottom seal return line On start up there is quite a bit of white smoke coming out of exhaust then eventually it goes away after an hour Not as much white smoke but still there a little any Ideal Thanks Rob

[@robschwiesow]

That can depend. What is the temp outside? There is normally a lot of condensation produced in an exhaust system, because of the the temperature variant of outside air to exhaust temperature. Is it just water that is dripping underneath the vehicle? If it is coolant you have a leak somewhere.

[@Rob-pz6zl]

@@robschwiesow temp outside it does this on every start up after it sits for 3 to 4 hours Regardless of outside temp no coolant loss

[@Rob-pz6zl]

2014FORD 3..5 ecoboost - white smoke on startup Just wondering if I put a new Turbo on if that gets rid of the white smoke No coolant Leaking Just a lot of white smoke on startup If this is the fix Like I said driver's side Turbo return oil line leaking thank you

[@danrao3707]

Looks like a vacuum pump issue as well.

[@treyg56]

How much does this job cost to be done? I have same issue. Thanks

[@robschwiesow]

At the time I did the job I believe I charged about $850. That could vary depending on who does the job. I have heard it can be upwards of 2k.

[@con3jo209]

Was the exhaust throwing white smoke?? with the the coolant leak?

[@con3jo209]

Yes smells sweet, the coolant level goes low in a week after filling to max level. A mechanic said it might be the turbos going bad, or a head gasket

[@con3jo209]

Cylinder heads were fine....my problem was passenger turbo internal coolant leak.

[@jaymarek1795]

Mines leaking on the passenger engine side. Once I remove the turbo how difficult is it to remove the engine supply line?

[@robschwiesow]

It's not too difficult

[@jaymarek1795]

Is the engine side fitting the same aluminum fitting as the turbo?

[@robschwiesow]

Here is a link with an exploded diagram and part numbers. cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150forum.com-vbulletin/661x547/coolantleak_be2977b8e6dfcdc8011462018032d0b20b0259c7.jpg Hope this helps

[@jaymarek1795]

@@robschwiesow thank you

[@hectorlopez8737]

Where can I find the diagram at 1:55? Please for a friend

[@robschwiesow]

This diagram is from Mitchel 1 Prodemand. You should be able to find it on google

[@chrismorris4134]

Did you leave the retainer clips in the new fittings and work the line into them? Or place the line in first and then the retainer clips?

[@robschwiesow]

The lines should just pop right into the new fittings

[@chrismorris4134]

@@robschwiesow awesome. Thanks for the reply. I’ve got to tackle my passenger side and will be starting it tomorrow. Local Ford Dealers quoted me between $900-1100 for this 😳

[@robschwiesow]

Best of luck! Hope it goes well for you!

[@chrismorris4134]

The rear line coming into the turbo was a little tricky, but finally got it. All went well, but all I changed originally was the two fittings on the turbo. Got it all back together and fired it up only to see the front block fitting leaking. Took it all back off and changed that fitting and all is good to go now. Working around the AC compressor was a doozy! Thanks for the tips though. Really did help

[@bigpicturethinking5620]

@@chrismorris4134 how did you work around the compressor? Did you take it off? Or work behind it in place? Thank you.

[@drew6391]

Did it leak Internally as well?

[@robschwiesow]

I found no signs of any internal leaks.

[@Hudbudd]

237,000 miles on my 2012. I just noticed the passenger side leak this week. I’m not looking forward to this job.

[@robschwiesow]

You made it a heck of a lot further than most! Lot's of folks see this well before 100k! It's a big job, but you got it!

[@johnbeardsley2962]

That's funny, my 2014 is just about to hit 237,000 and my coolant line adaptors are leaking bad. I was wondering if you could do the top side adaptors without pulling the turbo?

[@Hudbudd]

@@johnbeardsley2962 I’m at 254,000 and the problem solved itself. So I lucked out on this job for now

[@johnbeardsley2962]

@@Hudbudd wow you did get lucky. I'm not excited to do this job but I've got to tackle it. I'm losing about a half gallon of coolant per a 400 mile trip.

[@44lilron]

What does a job like this normally cost? Ball park range....

[@aaronmeany8293]

Looks around 550 to 900$ job

[@amandamtf132]

Interesting. I was just quoted $3000 to fix mine plus the water pump.

[@robschwiesow]

I charged right around $850 to do this job!

[@cmm7676]

Easy to get yo behind the block i did it already

[@TSGear]

Hey Bob. I have to do the ones behind the block asap. How did you do it?

[@samuelmccoy2398]

Did you ever find out if you have to pull the cab or engine to get the lines and fittings that go to back of the heads

[@Puckgrinder85]

@@robschwiesow No need to. You don't have to remove anything to get them out. Use a mirror and a straight pick to get the jiffy lock clips out, pull the old lines out, unscrew the fittings, install new ones and put new lines in. Use a straight ratchet with a short 19mm socket and they come out pretty easily. This is from the top btw, just remove the top cover of the engine and you literally have to lay on the engine and get in there. I put my head under the shelf of the fire wall and its much more comfortable to be honest. It's not easy but not impossible by any means.

[@Clownbaby666]

Puckgrinder85 thank you. I used this method today. Worked great. Not easy by any means but work. I used a borescope to kinda watch what I was doing, and an angled pick to remove the Jesus clip.

[@robschwiesow]

Awesome to know, thanks for sharing!

[@Clownbaby666]

American Heritage Garage your welcome. I did the lower line by disconnecting everything but the down pipe flange nuts and cautiously prying the turbo out to pop the new line into the new fitting. This was a ‘14 and drivers side only. Well until it comes back in a few weeks with the pass side leaking lol.

[@robschwiesow]

Well hopefully it all stays dry lol. That definitely seems like a way easier way to do it!

[@100bjj5]

I was able to change the lower fitting without removing the turbo or even the oil line.

[@robschwiesow]

Nice man, that is good info. That could save a ton of time, if that is the fitting that is leaking.

[@100bjj5]

American Heritage Garage thanks for posting the video. It was a big help.

[@mmcelroy145]

@@100bjj5 What tool did you use to get the fitting off ?

[@100bjj5]

@@mmcelroy145 I Used a pry bar to get the line out once i removed the retainer clip. I used a swivel rachet that has a bend in the handle to remove the fitting. Once i reinstalled the fitting, i used two pry bars to reinstall the line. One was used to center the line to the fitting and the other to press in the line.

[@mmcelroy145]

@@100bjj5 Thank You

[@dylanhylton2636]

How much should this cost for a shop to do?

[@robschwiesow]

I don't have an exact number, but it books right around 7 hours of labor. So based on the shop labor rate plus parts and mark up will get you close. Best guess anywhere between $800 and $1500 bucks depending on the shop you go to

[@dylanhylton2636]

@@robschwiesow would that be the rough estimate for both sides or just to replace one side of the turbo coolant line?

[@robschwiesow]

That would be both sides

[@dylanhylton2636]

@@robschwiesow thanks for the information I'll subscribe In return

[@robschwiesow]

I appreciate it my friend!

[@ianpinholster9087]

My drivers side turbo is leaking only when the trucks off. Problem is I cant find a mechanic near me that can fix this. Really do not want to go to Ford.

[@robschwiesow]

It will definitely be more costly through a dealership. I find it odd no body locally will fix it. Can you tell which fitting it is leaking from? Thought about tackling it yourself?

[@ianpinholster9087]

@@robschwiesow Sadly don't have the time with work or the tools. Local shop where I am at currently has never done one before and didn't want to have my Truck be the test dummy. Hoping my local mechanic back home will be able to when I get there in a few weeks. Really a shame Ford never recalled this, seems to happen on a ton of them. I just hit 88k miles and have been battling the leak for about a year now.

[@robschwiesow]

I have seen this in a lot of the 3.5L ecos, it is definitely a shame Ford never did anything about it. I hope you can get it fixed up, and it doesn't do to much damage to the wallet.

[@ianpinholster9087]

@@robschwiesow Thankfully my local dealership quoted me at about 500-1500 depending on how many gaskets have gone. Thanks for the video though! Now my only quest is to replace the stock touch screen

[@robschwiesow]

I hope they can get that done on the low end! I haven't encountered a touchscreen replacement yet, but if I do, I'll make a video for you!!

[@edwardwaldron7813]

I know dealerships are pricy but I need my vehicle to get to work luckily my 2014 f150 is paid off so I’m paying ford $1900 for my turbo coolant leak

[@bartkusske3635]

2015 is new body style

[@v.g.1669]

He keeps saying 2015 f150 that’s not a ‘15

[@robschwiesow]

It has been corrected, it's a 2014, thank you for pointing it out though!

[@v.g.1669]

@@robschwiesow same issue on my 2015 3.5l ecoboost but in a totally different location only reason I mentioned it. Thanks.

[@robschwiesow]

Yea, from what I know, at least the earlier 3.5s were known for this issue. Hope you got it all fixed up my friend!

[@kellysaylors5845]

Look at the degas bottle hose before you spend a ton of money on a fix you don’t need!!!

[@robschwiesow]

In regards to what? If the fittings are leaking, they need to be replaced.

[@kellysaylors5845]

@@robschwiesow my brother is a ford tech 31 years, the degas bottle hose will leak down to the turbo and fool most people , just check it first! Ford doesn’t want people to know that!!

[@robschwiesow]

That is good info, makes sense. I could see how that could throw a false leak condition!

[@franksikorski5390]

@Kelly Saylors, the degas bottle does have a common leak, but its the O-ring inside the fitting. It does NOT disguise itself as a turbo leak.......it leaks toward the front of the engine. As a 25+year Ford tech, I see these every week. American Heritage Garage is fixing a known issue with the coolant lines/fittings leaking.

[@Seriously6818]

If you are going to do a job don't do a half ass job, you will be wasting your time and money and your customers time and money! THOSE are the fittings and tubes that are leaking on my Ecoboost, DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

[@rmartinez19]

Lost me when you got the year of the truck wrong right of the bat. Even with magic Update: see reply

[@robschwiesow]

It happens man, I work on a lot of vehicles, was only off by a year. I am sure the customer was more pleased I got his vehicle fixed than he was upset that I was off by a year when I filmed a video about it.

[@rmartinez19]

You know what you’re right. I watched the whole thing and it’s a really good video. Sorry to give you shit the first time around. This was actually really helpful. Thanks.

[@robschwiesow]

Thanks man, I do appreciate that! Honestly, I don't mind some negative feedback sometimes too though, just makes me better, and helps me to be more mindful of making mistakes. I appreciate both your feedbacks!!