F-150 Ecoboost 3.5 Turbo Coolant Connector Replacement (Tips and Tricks)

[@linxtonyc]

Great Vid! Couldn't have ever done it without the level of detail outlined in it.. You saved me big bucks! Thumbs up !

[@AaronHinesAuto]

I’m happy to hear that! Thank you!

[@FleetTech97]

So it wasn’t too bad eh? I’m gonna be doing this pretty soon

[@JM-rp9qf]

how long did it take you?

[@mikedevir8242]

2015 Expedition w 147K - Leak on drivers side, inside fitting as Aaron describes. Followed his instructions - but could not get outer exhaust nut off; not enough room for socket and wrench. No luck w/open end or gear end wrench. Also, could not break top exhaust manifold nut - with 2 nuts not moving had to find other plan. Followed comment by others and went forward with change of fitting while turbo still installed. Pryed metal coolant line out and pushed up enough to get socket on fitting. Removed, greased and replaced by hand. It was tight, for once glad I have small hands. Replaced outer coolant fitting. Changed oil seal, put all bolts back in and tightened. Had to use 2 pry bars to work inner metal coolant tube into fitting. Reattached all hoses, then filled with anti-freeze and fired up, test drive good - repair complete, fingers crossed!

[@johnbouldin9033]

I have been wondering why the turbos have to be removed especially the one on the driver side. It looks like you can just reach around and remove the connections. I think I’ll give that a try. It seems a lot easier than removing the turbo.

[@JosephKrish-e8w]

Good video but I haven't been able to unbolt the exhaust due to rust. Actually had to touch the top bolt off and the bottom bolt came out of the turbo. Now faced with having to get the bolt off of the flange. Not an easy repair just due to rust. Joe

[@PeedPeeBody]

Mine broke. Had to drill and re-tap two bolts ​@@JosephKrish-e8w

[@Ekatjam]

One of the most informative how to videos I have ever seen on KZbin! Unfortunately as Clint Eastwood said: "A man has to know his limitations" And this might be beyond mine.

[@tanielakuruisuva7794]

Awesome explanation very helpful

[@ChonkTek]

This crap is definitely difficult to access. The neck pain alone sucks

[@sofistk8ddd1]

I have a 2017 Expedition with a 3.5 litter engine. I had both driver and passenger leaks. I started with the passenger. You will need a really good light, preferably with a rotating magnet. Remove negative battery cable. Jack up car, jack stands for safety, removed the upper inner wheel well...lots of plastic tabs and 5.5 mm socket...maybe even 8 mm...or 10 mm. Remove the engine plastic tabs closest to the front of the car. I also removed one of the air intakes that leads to the turbo and loosened the other one to have more turbo wiggle room later. I had both turbo fittings leaking. I half took off the turbo. Changed both while off. I removed 3 nuts off starter, not the electrical connections. I removed the 2 exhaust bolts. I removed the 3 manifold bolts. You will need to get the 3 manifold bolts and the triangular manifold gasket if you don't want to reuse the old ones. I got 3 manifold bolts and the gasket. Remove the 2 bolts to the oil line. I did not fully removed it. I was able to wiggle the turbo loose to where I could change both turbo fittings. Wear gloves if you don't want finger cuts when handling the exhaust part of the turbo. You will need a 3/8ths 45 torx and 50 torx. Also long extensions and a wobble extensions...and universal joint sockets, both 3/8 and 1/2 inch.... They helped. Be careful with the brake lines as they are near when wiggling the turbo out. Once everything was loose I removed the tang with a long pick from both sides of the turbo. I used a pry bar to gently wiggle both lines out of where it sat. Be patient. I am a novice and it took 1.5 days to do the passenger side. Breaks here and there. The best of luck! Tomorrow I will do the easy side...the drivers side. I only have 1 fitting leaking, closest to the wheel well. So that should take me an hour or so.

[@anthonybrianperez]

100% love these guys. The reason I do my own work is because there isn’t enough craftsmen like these out there that I’d trust to pay and do the job right. I’d rather just do it myself.

[@gratefuladventurer.8815]

Best turbo fix video yet. And I have watched a lot of them anticipating mine to start leaking soon. Thanks for the great photography work too. Well done all around.

[@superair05]

I just performed this on the drivers side of my 2013 f150. This video was great and helped me a ton. Just to note on the 2013 3.5 I found the exhaust manifold to turbo torx are T50 torx and the oil feed/return underneath the turbo are T45 torx

[@kevboost]

how long did it take you to do?

[@thomasswanson9811]

Found that out after i stripped the bolts thinking it was 47

[@superair05]

@@kevboost probably 4 hours. I got everything back together and the coolant fitting that goes into the side of the block was then leaking. I had to ride my bicycle to the Ford dealer for new parts and gaskets. Haha took the turbo off again and redid the process. Success. I did not change the coolant fitting on the back of the engine because I was running out of patience but I would recommend doing it while you have everything apart. About a year and a half later no leaks.

[@isaiahgleitz1939]

@@superair05 hi, do you recall the part number for the one going into the side of the block? I got it all back together and now that one is leaking. By chance was it the same as the turbo ones?

[@write2tien]

@@isaiahgleitz1939 Quantity of 2 (6A968-A) for the BLOCK Quantity of 2 (6A968-B) for the HEADS Quantity of 4 (6A968-C) for the TURBOS, two for each. www.f150ecoboost.net/threads/coolant-leak-near-turbo.48953/page-4

[@HorizonMain]

Juat did this today in the shop . Your video helped , thanks very much ! Was my first turbo to replace on flate rate and it went well . Appreciate your knowledge ! One thing i wish you would have incuded was getting the back coolant line back on the turbo . Had to have a co worker wiggle it around while i stuck it in the fitting . Thanks again tho my man !

[@e.b.6766]

Forgot to come back with my completion update… so, thanks to this AWESOME video I was able to get the job done. I happen to be retired military with access to the Redstone Arsenal auto craft-shop with tools, lifts, drained fluid dump, etc. All these amenities made the job so much easier than trying to do it in the garage. Also, shout-out to Woody Anderson Ford for having everything I needed on hand!!! And shout-out to the auto craft-shop staff, and management.

[@brasha78]

First off, Thank you for your service. I’m glad you had a real shop to fix this abomination of an engineering failure provided by Ford. They had everything on hand because they need inventory for all the trucks being worked on in their shop because of this problem. 😂 Shame on them for not stepping up and paying to make it right. They know their failure, and know it was a failure, because the swapped out materials on the ‘17’s and up. I understand taking the good with the bad, but these issues are a bit ridiculous. Beyond the grievances, Congrats on the fix. Feels good to get ‘er done. I’m going to try and replace just the one back fitting without removing anything. We’ll see how that goes. I’m actually more concerned that I should be doing more service if I’m getting in there to do these fittings such as new lines and trying to research if there’s a rebuild kit for the turbos I would hate if I do all this work and then the turbos start to fail and have to go right back in there.

[@jadedjay7861]

​@@brasha78How'd it go?

[@ntesdall1]

Big snow storm heading for Iowa this weekend so I'm going to tackle both turbos this weekend on my 2016. Would've never even attempted without this video!

[@ntesdall1]

tackled this weekend. Really wasn't too bad, definitely a second set of hands made it a ton easier. Will see if this solves my little leak!

[@jadedjay7861]

Did it?​@@ntesdall1

[@superair05]

2 years after doing this repair on my drivers side turbo (using this video), I now have a leak on the passenger side turbo coolant fitting. I completed the repair over the weekend and just a word of caution there is quite a bit of extra work involved in the passenger side. The starter needs to be removed which is surprisingly easy. However, the AC compressor also needs to be unbolted which requires removing the stretch belt that goes from the crank pulley to the ac compressor. Removing that belt is not fun but it's doable. Removing the ac compressor is only needed if you are going to change the coolant fitting that goes into the side of the block which i would recommend doing if you are this far in. I did all 4 fittings on the passenger side with the most difficult one being the one of the back of the cylinder head. Working at a decent pace I was in this repair about 10 hours but that also included an O2 sensor and replacing both belts.

[@KoolMada]

Damn, if anyone ever says how these ecoboost engines are no more maintenance than the 5L, I'm send them to this post. I owned a 2011 3.5L and the timing chain stretched 1". Was done with Ford warranty but without warranty that would of been a pricey repair.... Now I have a 2017 5L with the 6R80 trans and couldn't be happier. I'll be driving this one until the wheels fall off.

[@jdonez8347]

😅😅 so I'm gonna have to unbolt my ac...that's what I was curious about...was wanting to replace the fitting at the block since I'm already deep into it anyway was curious if the bolts or tools would clear between the motor mount and the lines.. 😂 Hate Ford w a passion anyone who like these junkers has never has to wrk on one.

[@skyvwest]

How did you manage to replace the fittings on the back of the cylinder head?

[@jadedjay7861]

​@KoolMada Yeah i bought a 2011 F150 with the 3.5 Leaking coolant from many places. Direct injection high pressure fuel pump is also leaking. It's just too much BS. I'm selling the mf

[@superair05]

@@jadedjay7861 The 1st gen 3.5 ecoboost certainly has it's fair share of nuisance issues however i'm 10 years and 230k miles on mine and i've only done the turbo coolant fittings and a leaky valve cover. no issues otherwise, never let me down. original turbos, timing chain, water pump, everything. oil change every 4k miles. That being said I would not buy one of these without seeing a detailed maintenance history.

[@anthonypetree9371]

Just had to have this replaced, but didn't see the video before taking into the dealership. I thought the powertrain warranty through Ford Protect would cover it.. It did not. $1200 repair for one turbo. Insane. Thanks a ton for this video!

[@regularguyfixes3142]

Every time I take my truck to dealer for something the bill has been over $1200. Insane...

[@ChonkTek]

​@@regularguyfixes31424 years later, what's the minimum bill now for basic things... $2100? Ridiculous yea

[@butsugen]

Just got back from the dealership. They said it's the fitting plus 2 broken bolts. Altogether it'll be 4850. I'll be doing this myself instead

[@ChonkTek]

​@@butsugen That is a RIDICULOUS price, Ford! They must think we are all idiots. Just because everything has increased 2X to 3X over the last 1-3 years doesn't mean they should 10X the cost of the max this job should ever be! They've absolutely lost a future customer after reading that.

[@butsugen]

@@ChonkTek 1170 for parts but I got it for 60 on Amazon. I'd be working over a month for free to get this fixed. It would take me nearly a decade of buying a gallon a week of coolant to reach that that repair cost if I left it.

[@rekproperties8048]

Thanks for the video. I have a coolant leak on the back passenger side of the engine but couldn’t figure out the precise location without tearing it apart. After watching this video, I can now see that this is exactly where the leak is coming.

[@jadedjay7861]

What'd you do about it?

[@e.b.6766]

Just wanted to let you all know my progress… I started removing the wheel well lining to verify where my leak was coming from (all my coolant would puddling on the passenger side). What I found was nothing around any of the coolant line fittings on the passenger side. With the skid plate removed I followed the rear/ bottom of the engine with a flashlight to the drivers side… there it was. Residue under the driver turbo oil pressure/ return lines. Also, the white chalky, and wet combination, around the fitting on the inboard side of the turbo; between the turbo and engine. Wow… with all the coolant I’ve found on the driver side I never would’ve thought the origin would be on the opposite side. So check very closely before doing unnecessary work!!! More to follow… I couldn’t continue as I had ran out of time. Putting the passenger side back together, and tearing apart the opposite side would have made me late for work (would’ve been late even if it were on the right side). So, will jump straight on it tomorrow. Today, I did brakes, and rotation, before I got to the turbos (sufficient time for them to cool while I was doing the other maintenance). I use the craft shop here on Redstone Arsenal (I love this facility), so vehicle has to cool after drive.

[@ericmartinez4053]

Thank you for this information. What I'm gathering from your post is that in order to diagnose where the leak is, you would recommend removing the skid plate rather than each wheel well, right? I know the wheel wells will need to be removed in order to do the actual work, but I'm just talking about diagnosis.

[@2008bigshotrob]

Having the same exact issues and I’ve watched this video multiple times anticipating it will be as easy as you made it seem 😅 wish me luck!

[@jadedjay7861]

How'd it go?

[@kevinshanders352]

Great Video! No nonsense, just the right info. I was anxious about this leak on my Ford until i watched this!

[@jessecunard6544]

Just bought a 2012 f150 with the 3.5L and it's leaking. So thanks to this video I know I can do it myself.

[@docjonesjones6173]

Great video thank you. I was able to change out the driver side between block and turbo fitting leaving the turbo in place. Drained Coolant, removed clip and used a pry bar to VERY carefully and slowly pry the tube back and push up just enough to get the socket on it. Do not not over extend the tubing or crush. Replaced fitting and reinserted the tubing. The tube will bend just slightly and not want to line so you will have to pry it slightly to line it back up with the fitting. So far so good no leaks and everything looks good. It is very tight to work in so small hands are a plus. Once coolant is drained which took the longest and when you pry the tube the remaining coolant will drain so you have to wait a few. Once coolant was out it took about 30 minutes to remove and replace.

[@timreissen323]

Was this for the fitting on the back or the front? Mine is leaking from the back.

[@darkshadows4654]

I was able to do the fitting facing the block (driver side) this way as well using a long prybar - HOWEVER my 2012 with 125k then started leaking from the fitting in the block (the other end of that line) so now I guess Im gonna pull the turbo anyway.

[@jadedjay7861]

​@@darkshadows4654How'd it go?

[@ChonkTek]

Best video here for this nonsense. What a pain to plan taking the turbo out. Anyone here just removed the fittings and left the turbo in place?

[@guillermotanon8477]

Very nice video on how to change those gaskets. I just don't have the tool. But it gave me a sense of relief in knowing that Ford was not just telling me a leaky story. I had several leaks they mentioned it was covered by my extended warranty. Thank you for the video.

[@louiemoscatel585]

Good God man! If you ever work on a 3.5 ecoboost in a Ford Explorer please post a video. I’d imagine the motor mounted transversely would’ve a nightmare compared to the F150. Great video, thanks

[@ColeJackson-z8g]

Great video guide! I was unable to break loose one of the bolts holding the turbo to the frame (with my battery operated impact driver) so I had to change both seals with it on. It was a serious PITA and a great exercise in patience but I got it done! Could have used a pair of smaller hands though. Thanks again for the help!

[@lucy327rss]

Next time heat the block in that area with a torch..itle zip right out.

[@mirage2887]

I'm confused on what are the part numbers for the things you replaced are?

[@stevenanderson6658]

Nicely done. Just think I pulled the cab on my pickup to do that. I did both sides pass and driver. Such a pain

[@jadedjay7861]

How'd you pull the cab?

[@natedog61441]

I dont know if anyone said this but the 3.5 on the 2015 f150 does have a coolant petcock, its just a screw and pull on the driver side of the radiator, bottom of it below the lower coolant output. Also another edit. If you don't wanna drain the entire coolant system, ear plugs or coolant cork plug kits work well also for this including rubber hose coolant clamps at the tank and rad hoses help the coolant from flowing freely, the little things can save you ten or so minutes and even a few dollars in coolant, just if you do it this way, get ready to get a bit drenched in sweet toxic water, don't let your animals near it

[@Cttyworker35]

Great detail in your video. Got 285,+++ on mine. This is going to be my next project in the spring.

[@joshua87655]

Man that's great mileage! I'm hoping my ecoboost last that long. Mines a 2012 with 111,000. I'm planning on keeping it for years. Bought it brand new. How the power at 285,000? Mine still flys

[@dionmorehead2911]

I'm new to the channel but I wanted to tell you thanks for the knowledge. I'm learning a whole lot to save me some labor $$$. I don't have all your tool but at least I understand what's going on now with my 2013 F150.

[@FishNBraap]

Mine just started to leak on a 2013 thanks for the video you saved me big time.

[@AaronHinesAuto]

glad to help, seems to be a common issue on these trucks, i guess the dealer charges big time for it too. cheers!

[@CB-dl1fx]

@@AaronHinesAuto yeah, only like $2500.... lol. At least my recent quote.

[@bigpicturethinking5620]

@@CB-dl1fx is that to do all 4 lines though?

[@CB-dl1fx]

@@bigpicturethinking5620 Good question, they didn't specify. I didn't get it fixed and am waiting to take it elsewhere when I can find the time. Such an inconvenience.

[@bigpicturethinking5620]

@@CB-dl1fx Especially because the new ones have a banjo bolt design that just doesn’t leak at all. What a sorry design.

[@stancestan8689]

This video was beyond amazing I was quoted 1650 to get this fixed but I’m mechanically good enough to be Able to get this done and with how detailed this video was I feel even more comfortable!! My only question is when I get everything put back together do I just add coolant back or do I have to do a whole coolant flush procedure

[@lucy327rss]

you don't need to flush..however you do need to fill the radiator all the way up, turn heat on full then start it with the cap off. fill as needed while it is running and put cap on and you should be good.

[@brasha78]

I’m about to dive into this project, and i’m gonna try to get to the backside bolt without removing the turbo but if I have to take the full route and go the direction this amazing video went I’m going to flesh the coolant until it’s clean and leave it empty and then I’m going to change the oil and empty it out until it’s empty and then pull the turbo. I know that there will be oil still in the lines but I’m hoping with dropping everything out of the vehicle it’ll be a lot less. Putting everything back filling up all the fluids and she should be good to go for quite some time. I’m just so pissed I put on a full exhaust from the cat back and my symptoms started when I was replacing the bolts on the exhaust it manipulated the turbo enough that a small leak became much greater and now I’m forced into making this repair or paying for it, but such is life.

[@quietnoise0113]

This is awesome and great details. My truck needs it done with only 45k miles. Wish you lived in Houston, I'd pay you to do mine. Again, great video!!

[@javitx9387]

Mine just started leaking from there with approximately 180,xxx miles 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@e.b.6766]

Would like to add a little note regarding the T-47 Torx bit he mentioned needed to remove the turbo mounting hardware… it’s actually a T-50 (the new Ford hardware I bought needs a T-50; T-47 fits, but it’s not snug, has play. Also, removing the spring clip with a screwdriver is potentially bad… the clip may shoot off somewhere it can’t be found. There is a tool for this… A/C and/ or fuel line disconnect tool. Specifically made to wrap around the line, and slide down into the fitting while spreading the spring. Good luck.

[@e.b.6766]

Actually, that last statement is kinda not relevant to the point I was making as those parts will be replaced. I work on helicopters, and must account for all things I bring onto, and take off. This helps prevent FOD (Foreign Object Damage). Just a good habit to keep count of all parts, tools, etc.

[@dennistouchine7421]

Awesome! Now I know what to get. Thank you and this video was one of the best straight to the point fixes.

[@AaronHinesAuto]

Thank you! Glad u like it

[@MendicantBias1]

6:11 2015 F150 Ecoboost has a radiator drain. Drivers side with a red cap that loosens and allows coolant to flow out of the radiator.

[@CarlosAguilar-de8rq]

Had to do this job today only 1 fitting was leaking turbo side one took clip off wiggled and pulled line till it came off slightly bent it took swivel socket with 2 inch extension on 3/8 ratchet was done in 15-20 mins max

[@robertcoleman7524]

So you didn't have to remove the turbo

[@stang8urimport783]

Thanks for the video. First set of fittings I’ve done on these 3.5’s. Had the passenger side out in 30 minutes. 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻

[@AaronHinesAuto]

That’s awesome!

[@stang8urimport783]

Waited on parts all day. Got both back in before I left today though. Thanks again for the video.

[@kcoop99]

So this video helped you with the passenger side? Mine is leaking from the fitting just under the manifold near the firewall! While I'm in there I plan to do all the connections though.

[@cologeroanello7852]

@@kcoop99 did u replace the one at the block on the passenger side? If so did u have to remove the a/c compressor ? Praying it’s possible without removing compressor that would need to be drained of Freon

[@kcoop99]

@@cologeroanello7852 I did. If you remove the wheel well, you can really see it up there next to the firewall. I used a large crescent wrench to get it out. Not easy but definitely doable.

[@angelamccarthy4731]

Awesome video. How do you get the front coolant line Back into the clip there seems to be not enough play on it to clip it in fully

[@laynehaynes9328]

What all would I need hardware and gasket wise to replace the coolant lines? Do I need to use new bolts for the exhaust manifold and all or can i reuse them? 2014 ford f150 3.5 ecoboost driver side turbo supply and return coolant line replacement

[@live_your_best_life_8]

Hi Aaron, excellent video appreciate the detail explanation

[@technics970]

On the coolant line from the turbos to the block connections do those not snap into place like the others? I removed the clips then the bolt to remove the line from the block. Just wondering because they don’t snap it even with the bracket bottomed out. The collar on the line looks different also. Thank for the help

[@AaronHinesAuto]

they dont snap in. i guess you could say they pop it. it seems to be a more loose of a fitting then whats on the turbo. i recommend replacing those fittings now that the pipe has been removed

[@technics970]

Thank you! I went ahead and replaced all the fittings on the truck. All of them had signs of leaks. I just wanted to make sure but I guess it makes sense that the stem on the line that goes into the block is longer than the turbo one and it has a bolt retaining it. Thank again for your video it really helped me a lot when removing my turbos!

[@qcweems]

How do you get to the fitting on the back on the block/head on the drivers side.

[@technics970]

Doug Weems I attacked the passenger side first then took a 19mm wrench boxed in and put my arm back there all the way to the passenger side and broke it loose. Then I used a 3/8 to 1/4 connected to a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter connected to a crows foot and a ratchet on the other to sneak it behind the head to tighten the fitting one it was installed

[@DerekCarrollrealestate]

How and when do you get the backside coolant line hooked back up on the install? Before installing the turbo mounting bolts and flange to the exhaust? I can’t get to the back to access this at all or bend the coolant pipe in.

[@cheizaguirre5494]

I replace my passenger valve cover gasket and vacuum pump and i still getting a small oil leak down my exhaust. Any idea what else it could be ? Turbo fittings look fine

[@danielmarjanovic9957]

After I change I out the turbos, do I just add coolant until it’s in between the low and high mark and fire the truck up? I removed the top coolant connector of both turbos, in process of changing them out. There was allot thay deqined out. Was just wondering after I get done putting turbos on on how much coolant to add and if there are any special procedures to get the coolant to cycle through the truck or just add… sorry if it’s confusing

[@199randomhero]

Fantastic video, super helpful. Wish all tutorials were like this

[@dana.9752]

Great Video! Im not seeing the P/N for the oil gasket. Anyone know what it is? Thanks!

[@chrisg1342]

I wish I would have seen this video 2 days ago. My 2013 is at the dealership now for the same repair. $1K repair............after a $9K engine replacement. Motor has about 6K miles on it. You would think this would be covered under the new motor warranty. It isn't.

[@corytodd1690]

The coolant line fittings on the turbo look like they can be replaced without pulling the turbo. It's tight but at the right angle seems definitely doable with a socket. Am I missing something?

[@Tony-hr4bl]

Fantastic video, thanks for sharing. I have a 2016 F150 Ecoboost. Every once in a while I find a few drops of coolant on the passenger side near the inside wheel. It’s not consistent, sometimes I don’t see anything for weeks. cannot find anything wet, I’m hoping it’s not the same issue

[@jdoz2400]

Inner prongs getting worn, temperature difference of dissimilar metals.

[@thomasspringer7184]

Mine started out like this

[@nottheone3957]

Great video! Thanks. 3 Housing bolts are actually t50 just fyi

[@tomburns890]

Great video & geez I guess this is the problem I have on the passenger side. It’s not that bad as I add about 1/3 gallon every few months. Sounds like there are several other issues or problems to worry about with these 3.5l down the road so I just don’t think I’m in a hurry to fix this being a slow leak & only have 62K miles on my 2015. How much would the cost be to just have the passenger side coolant lines fixed & if it’s just the front line like on the drivers side can it be fixed without removing the turbo? Thanks for any help u can provide.

[@e.b.6766]

Great video. Will be doing this next long weekend I get off from work.

[@victorvandyk5626]

thank you, very well done video, couldnt have even thought about doing it without this help. appreciate it. V

[@blackwhalee]

Amazing, really thanks for this clear video

[@rubyred6554]

Hi, I noticed earlier in the video when you were reviewing the water connectors you mentioned to change all four due to the possible line leak at engine when messing with coolant line. At the end of the video you decided not to replace the water connector at engine. Did you not change it due to it being impossible to reach without lifting body off of frame? Did the engine side water connector leak after fix was complete? Thanks for sharing awesome video!

[@ashleyevans9363]

The first coolant line you pushed it way out the way. What about the other end. Is it not going to start leaking now? Is it connected with and o ring also?

[@marknamylaires2508]

I'm replacing the driver side turbo quick connect fittings that are notorious for developing leaks, and I noticed that the engine side of one of the lines isn't locking into jiffy clip its the one that has the torx bolt holding it with a larger quick connect fitting is this normal?

[@AL-fy7gp]

Aaron Hines, I've been on top, under and from the side and I cannot figure out how to reach the coolant fitting on the driver's side rear of the motor. I used your video to do both sides headers but have a leak at the back if the block now. Any advice?

[@LesWhalen]

How long should it take to do this repair? Mine doesn't appear to be leaking from the fittings but around the turbo itself

[@cheizaguirre5494]

The fittings u put on the turbos are those the same size it can be used on either side of the turbo like 90 degrees?

[@ErikEide-fg4es]

Stripped out one of my torx bolts on the turbo. T50 not t47. Learned that the heard way

[@OKBIRD5690]

Just did this. Getting white smoke after about 30 seconds of engine running. I’m assuming exhaust from the manifold-turbo connection? They’re torqued to 28ft-lbs... well at least the one I could get my torque wrench on. Crank them down a little more?

[@jordanbock3141]

Any chance you could update your links? I’m having trouble finding the parts, aside from physically going into Ford and ordering from them

[@clintmullins4406]

Is it the same process for the transit? I really hate having to disturb the turbo. Its a 2015 with 110k miles. Dripping from the driver side lower.

[@marcelogarciaiii9211]

Nice video!! Thank you! What are the part numbers for the parts needed on 2016 3.5L to get this same job done?

[@jefffothergill2685]

Thanks for the helpful video . You're doing great !

[@jonathanflores774]

Have you ever had to replace the back fittings , at rear of engine that goes towards turbos? That's my issue right now and I'm so upset I didn't get em done while I did manifolds.

[@topherwayne4398]

I have a 2015 ecoboost, the peacock is on the driver side of the radiator. Hard to see for sure!

[@UBBERTANKER]

why do manufacturers think a rubber seal on a turbo is a good idea with all that heat. they should be using a banjo blolt style connection with crush washers

[@michaelmuschket1155]

I have a 2016 Expedition that started to leak. Passenger side. Looks like the fitting coming form the engine is the cause. Whats the best way to replace that?

[@cacheanglin6849]

Was this coolant leak up front or coolant leak through the exhaust? My 16 expedition is leaking water through the exhaust.

[@alexg5531]

good vid thanks but there is another two connectors - one is on the block and the other one located on the engine head =- they are leaking too )) Had bad experience a few years ogo coz ignored it

[@terryheck9507]

If the coolant lines are leaking would it make it all the way back to the back of the transmission pan and exhaust cross pipe mine leaks antifreeze from there I I cant find anything leaking

[@tlover94]

Great video. How long did it take you from start to finish to fix it

[@macbaldner6871]

Straight to point and good quality and tips 👌

[@danielmarjanovic9957]

I have an f150 ecoboost. Replaces manifold and turbos. Replsced all line except the drivers coolant line that runs to the back of engine…. How do I replace the fitting in back and attach the line on back???

[@austin3626]

This is gold. THANK YOU. I’m subscribing

[@cologeroanello7852]

You have a part number for the line itself? Mine is leaking at the motor end of that line . I ordered the fitting for engine, but wan to replace the line as well while I’m in there . Can’t find a parts diagram anywhere online

[@jaandel1]

I have a leakage follow that connector tube water line coonecter to the turbo but from the other end the one that is connected to the back of the engine ... any idea how to fix it.... passanger side

[@kicktrollinface6092]

My 2013 interceptor sedan eco boost. Smoking and losing. Antifreeze. Could this line be the problem?

[@bdizzzeldavidson9553]

Having trouble lining up the top coolant line to the turbo. Any tips?

[@luisaguilera8609]

Hello. I have a f150 xlt and the o ring connected to the charger needs to be replaced. I went to Ford and they said that they sell the whole part with the turbo charger for 6000. Can I just buy the o ring from another store? 6000 is steep. Appreciate your help. It's a 2013 3.5.

[@jonathannoble8190]

Do both turbos have to be removed to do this job? Even more detailed question is do the oil lines have to be removed to do this job? I had my coolant line leak fixed by dealer last year and they did both sides and now my oil line is leaking a year later so I’m wondering if that’s something that would be covered under the warranty of work they did.

[@zanekanahele333]

How did you get that fitting in man blows my mind

[@austinlourinho8652]

Are you saying to replace all of the quick connect fittings or only the 2 on the turbo? They seems to be in pretty hard to reach areas like in between the firewall and engine. Thanks!!

[@Puckgrinder85]

If your're reading this do yourself a favor and do all 4 fittings and replace the lines at the same time. (per side)

[@MrBurtonPE]

Would this be the same procedure with a 2015 Expedition? Just noticed coolant dripping from the square access hole under ours, it’s only got 121K miles on it. Ugh...

[@AaronHinesAuto]

Yes, same setup

[@MrBurtonPE]

@@AaronHinesAuto Thanks, turns out it was my external water pump had gone out.

[@seanadams5440]

Mines leaking from the fitting facing the engine. Looks like I can replace it from underneath without pulling the turbo. Thoughts?

[@gc99289]

Same boat over here. It looks hella tight in there. Did you pull the whole turbo?

[@benalter780]

You will need to remove the turbo to replace fitting or line

[@303skier]

Has anyoetried replacing them without pulling the turbo? Its passenger side for me too, and looks accessible...

[@josefelix3907]

I would remove the entire turbo just so you have an easier time doing it, I repaired my driver side, currently working on the passenger and I'm having a hell of a time with the locking clips.

[@robertwagner1067]

Awesome job man keep up the good work

[@jdonez8347]

To do the line you claim you won't be touching...does the cab need pulled? Bc seems fairly close to the motor mounts...just curious 😂I'm already balls deep have the turbo out....

[@grantweaverling7871]

Will the coolant lines pop back in with the clips on

[@chuckoman]

Simply awesome really great video, thank you, ask for more on f150 3.5 liter ecoboost ,

[@kyhomegarage3430]

thank you so much sir. You are awesome. Great detail video. Cheers

[@AaronHinesAuto]

thank you!!

[@spicoli3206]

Well your videos are great an educational, but I see the knuckle busting tap on your knuckles, so you can count me out of doing it myself! Thanks brother, calling triple A now

[@Haywres3]

Great video! Any idea on the part number for the oil seals? I have an oil leak around the driver side turbo.

[@matthewjohnston29]

I have a 2017 Ford Transit 3.5 eco what do you charge for this repair

[@davidbarrette8359]

Are you doing the passenger side turbo and did you also take the tire off

[@calebyoung5951]

Thank you for the detailed video was really helpful will be starting project soon.

[@Flavor-il9tc]

Will a bad turbo cause heavy white smoke from exhaust

[@isaiahmills9290]

Is there any difference in parts if I used this on my 2012?

[@hondaguy425able]

My turbo coolant line is leaking on the opposite side of the coolant line behind the engine block not at the turbo and it seems impossible to get to even after removing the intake manifold. Any advice please?

[@stevenrowlett6009]

Have radiator fluid in oil on 2013 ford f150 ecoboost. Is this common .no overheating ., runs smooth, but also know its diluted the oil which is not good thinking maybe blown head gasket no smoke no hesitation what could it be