2015 Chrysler 200C Thermostat Replacement P0128

[@UpsKemeDream]

This is helpful, let me repeat very HELPFUL. You have the most realistic approach; the rest of the example videos show it like magic which is not good. Also it's noteworthy to use this opportunity to change the hoses (either the ones with the plastic quick connects or all- you be the judge) esp if your vehicle has over 75K miles. These get real brittle and can be suspects for unnoticeable leaks and annoying overheating problems. The hoses are really tested when you engage that heater on a cold day. 2. Prying that pipe as Joe mentioned is key as there's an ear cinch clamp that blocks the path to the ever difficult 10mm bolt at the bottom right of the thermostat. 3. Buy disconnect tools for the quick connectors - they save pain and cost. 4. PLEASE remember to reattach the ground cable to the PCM that's sits next to the battery. 5. BIG THUMBS UP AND A WORLD OF GRATITUDE TO JOE. THANKS

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

I’m so glad this helped you. This is why I share these projects.

[@jeffgrimm8887]

Thank you for this video. I was helping my son in law and and we ran into the bottom bolt problem. I thought we were going to have to put it back together and take it to the dealer but your video saved us.

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

So glad this helped you! Thanks for the feedback.

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

@@michaelblouin4284 ?

[@darndog2]

Lots of good suggestions. Thanks for the video! My son and I removed the "permanent" hose clamp from the hose directly under the thermostat assembly and pulled the hose off to allow better access to the back bottom bolt. Still not easy repair.

[@Poppy-tw1ve]

I have to say this has been a very helpful video. I was ready to throw my hands up and give. But as soon as I watched this it was game on. I think you did an excellent job explaining everything. That was key. Lots of people make these type of videos but can’t explain very well. So thanks for the info. I’ve always fixed my own stuff but I don’t mechanic on a regular basis. Everything turned out great. Thanks

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Thanks so much for your feedback. I’m glad this helped you out.

[@nicolegunderson2338]

I completely agree, very through and detailed. Now I'm off to tackle the job. I appreciate the time you took to do this for all of us out here.

[@ryan018181]

I was able to remove the bottom bolt from the thermostat by removing the hose. Clipping the hose clamp was ridiculously hard, but I replaced it with a worm drive clamp to make it easier if i ever need to get back in there. With that lower hose off, i was able to reach a 1/4" socket on a small extension back there to get it fitted to the bolt, then just had to attach the socket wrench to the extension

[@mikesalazar3620]

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! Dude probably would’ve been screwed without this video. Mechanic tried to screw me over telling me my fan was broke, was gonna charge me 350. My uncle said that was too much so we decided to diagnose the problem this part came up and my uncle said no prob. Took us about 8 hours and 4 was that damn bottom bolt. Lol I thought the bracket one was bad but that was just the preview for the one underneath. I live in S.A. Texas if you’re ever in town message beers on me. Glad we could get it down bloody knuckle but at least that mechanic didn’t get to bend me over. Thanks again

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Mike Salazar So glad this helped you! Thanks for your feedback. That’s why I take the time to make these videos, because I know there are other people out there who just need a little more info to get through some of these jobs.

[@benpatrick1860]

I used S shape 10 mm wrench on that difficult bottom right side thermostat housing bolt. and S shape 13 mm wrench to remove bottom bolt holding small bracket to throttle body and also did not put it back on.

[@RobertFebonio-ww8rz]

So…. Very helpful brother. Thank you. Unfortunately my last bottom bolt was a 10mm. I was trying to get that bolt off for an hr and a half… Very upset when I changed the socket to a 10mm And it fit…. Came right off like you said.

[@frankiev-tech4630]

Hey thanks Joe for that video...I had a job today with that problem. I'd like to add with that pain in the ass bolt on the bottom right...what I found the easiest tool to use is a 1/4 drive 10mm flex socket with using two 1/4 drive small extensions to remove that bolt...dont remove the top left bolt till you get that one out so you can remove it with your fingers easier...but yeah what a pain of a job and I'm a 16 year tech. The worse part of that job is that bolt...and yes remove the ground of the battery whenever you disconnect anything with electrical components...especially the ECU and throttle body...do not crank the car right away...leave it on ignition for 10sec prior to start before firing it up.

[@TheRumbles13]

Always disconnect battery before removing ECM! Use an air lift to fill coolant system. Cover throttle body opening

[@brucepeninsulasportsmensas721]

I only removed the battery and the left side of the battery tray. Left the ecm connected. 1/4 drive with 8 and 10 mm sockets with extensions and universal drive with driver where the battery was. took two of us 2 hours.

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Nice. Good work. I had never done this before I made this video and gave myself plenty of room to work.

[@mainsfortes5778]

Too many of these cropping up. Time for recall?

[@YOUNGFEAST91]

Joe is the man he been helping me with my Chrysler man Great guy here and very patient 💪🏾💪🏾💯 joe by any chance you know where I can purchase the thermostat part 🧠💯

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

I think I got mine here: www.moparsalesdirect.com/v-2015-chrysler-200--limited--2-4l-l4-gas/cooling--water-pump-and-related-parts It’s under “Water Pump and Related Parts”

[@YOUNGFEAST91]

Thank you so much have a blessed Sunday

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

@@YOUNGFEAST91 Happy to help. Good luck with the project.

[@joshshort6926]

I have a 2016 Chrysler 200 and my buddy is a mechanic and helped me replace mine and was able to get that last bolt thanks to this video and after he put everything back together my car doesn't start at all any advice?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Hmmmm. I’d be doublechecking the ECM connections and any other electrical connection you may have taken apart. That’s awfully weird for sure.

[@joshshort6926]

@@JoesCarSmartsNY yeah it cranks for about 30 seconds and then just nothing

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

josh short Wow. I’d love to know what this turns out to be.

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Did you ever find the cause of this issue?

[@jairosendsit8667]

I’m a mechanic and was looking for an easier way of getting that back lower bolt thanks man

[@alexisrosas2554]

replay back and ill make you a video and send you a link this guys way over working, i replace this t-stat in 30min with the soft wear update

[@315prospectfilms6]

Would love to see another way to get lower back bolt out. Can't for the life of me

[@obe6655]

I made you a video.showing how I replace the t-stat housing. check out my channel. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y2m2oZ1nZb6oedE

[@kevinmasterson1947]

@@alexisrosas2554 hook it up!

[@obe6655]

@@kevinmasterson1947 watch my video

[@josephmoore4598]

Thanks for the tips, I can see I severlyunder cut thelabor quote on this job!! Oh well, she needs some other tings done so it'll all work out!

[@keatonbarney2730]

My 2015 dart is due for a coolant exchange. So that being said, would this process be easier if I drained the coolant beforehand and removed all the coolant hoses in the way??

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Doing the complete coolant exchange at the same time as your thermostat will be helpful. And removing the hoses will give you a bit more room to work.

[@mannyu26]

How did you remove the hose coming from the thermostat to the radiator? That hose and damn throttle body are the only things keeping me from replacing my thermostat.

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

It sounds like the hose is stuck on the thermostat housing? The trick to hoses like that is to grip them firmly with a large pair of pliers and twist. The twisting motion breaks the seal between the hose and the housing. Once this is loose the hose much easier to take off. Best of luck to you.

[@deandejoseph3102]

THANKS for this!! Just wondering , is there enough room to get a cut-off wheel on that bracket and just cut it off then remove the bottom bolt after you remove the throttle body?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

I don’t think so. That whole area is real cramped.

[@deandejoseph3102]

@@JoesCarSmartsNY THANKS Joe.

[@mackenzieelson3742]

there is, I cut the studs off of the intake to save my hands

[@mohamedeldemerdash9583]

First, thank you. But unfortunately I have oil leak around the air pump. Do you know why?, Is there a gasket I can replace

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

See 7:09 in the video for the o-rings on the air pump.

[@mohamedeldemerdash9583]

Thank you so much , I missed that I hope I can find a replacement for just the o rings

[@mohamedeldemerdash9583]

You are totally right , it was the small o ring that is missing, do you know if I can find it in the car parts store ? Or at least I can get an assortment set and hopefully it will be one of them ? Sorry I wanna be clear 😅 is this o ring unique or it is just a regular o ring?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

@@mohamedeldemerdash9583 I’m not totally sure. You can check the head to see if the o ring stick to it. Next option is take the pump to a parts store and try to get one that fits in there. Remember it’s exposed to oil so it needs to be able to withstand that and the heat.

[@18Jharmer]

Do you need to use a pressure system when refilling the coolant? Oreillys showed in the vehicle specs that it was a needed step.

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

I did not use any pressurized system. I filled it and carefully made sure there were no air pockets in the system. You let the engine get up to temp with the heat on high and defrost feature on. Once the thermostat opens and you have heat you should have eliminated all air pockets in the system. Then you can carefully double check your coolant level. In a few days check it again and top it off as needed.

[@18Jharmer]

Did you completely flush the system or did you keep some residual coolant in?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Jared Harmer I did not drain 100% of coolant. Quite a bit came out during this tho. I was too worried about getting the thermostat done properly since it’s a bit tricky that I forgot I should drain the rest of the coolant.

[@sebastiancortez6087]

What does the lower radiator hose and hvac heater hose connector, connecting to, under the thermostat housing ?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

The radiator hose connects to the metal pipe that goes around the back of the engine. I’m not sure about the other hose you’re asking about.

[@user-vk2nv8lo5z]

I was curious did that finally fix the problem completely?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

I’ve never had a P0128 since replacing this thermostat. Fixed the code for me. That was about 80k miles ago. The car now has 156k with no codes.

[@hectorrosa4688]

I have a 2015 Chrysler 200 I want to know if you have a video to replace a wiper switch

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

I haven’t had to do that project yet, but I think there is a video on KZbin for that somewhere else.

[@hectorrosa4688]

@@JoesCarSmartsNY I tried nothing about it

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Hector Rosa I double checked after I replied to you. I guess there are vids for other Chrysler’s. If I do ever need to do the job I’ll be sure to Video it.

[@hectorrosa4688]

@@JoesCarSmartsNY thanks

[@juggernaut8647]

So what issues was this part causing before you replaced it? And what caused it to go bad in the first place

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

I think some of these were defective from the factory. It was causing a P0128 code which means the engine wasn’t coming up to temp fast enough.

[@vader540is]

When you remove the PCM does it need programming? Does the vacuum pump need bleeding? How about bleeding the coolant system? Or is it a self bleed

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Rob E I did not reprogram anything with the PCM. I did not do anything to bleed the vacuum pump. For the coolant I let the engine idle to full operation temp with the coolant reservoir lid off to allow air to escape. I topped that reservoir to slightly above the full mark in case there might be some additional air in the system. These steps worked for me, I cannot say they will absolutely work for you and I don’t k ow exactly what Chrysler’s service procedures are for this. But this repair done in this manner solved this engine light for this car.

[@soniagarcia8305]

how did you get the last bolt from the throttle with the bracket?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Sonia Gutierrez I believe I was able to get a wrench on it to break it loose then used a 1/4” drive socket with my fingers to twist it the rest of the way. Very very tedious.

[@soniagarcia8305]

Joe S. we could not do it so we quit it's super complicated

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Sonia Gutierrez sorry to hear that. It’s not the easiest project that’s for sure.

[@oscarcidvquez.2572]

hello I have the problem in my chrysler 200 that the fans do not turn off, they stay on, change the temperature sensor and it remains the same, it will be the thermostat as seen in your video .....

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

You should have a professional mechanic check this out. The fan is controlled by a different sensor and it could take some pro troubleshooting.

[@aresanu]

Is it normal for car thermostat to still go up and down immediately after?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

@@aresanu some fluctuations (near the middle temp range) are normal. If you’re fluctuating at the hot end, you might still have air trapped in the system.

[@jaeehovaa]

Is it easier to replace the temp sensor? Or same process .

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

It’s easier to replace temp sensor. But after replacing the sensor initially, this code reappeared. So I did the whole assembly with the new thermostat.

[@jaeehovaa]

My check engine light came on and AutoZone said it was temp sensor, hopefully that's it . I'm at 70k miles .

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

jaee hovaa I think this car was also at about 70k.

[@hectorgarciaiii3952]

Hey Joe have you done a job on adding transmission fluid to the chrysler or a fluid change

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

That’s coming soon. Probably 2-3 weeks.

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Here’s the video you asked for. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnnTXnt5g8qqr7M

[@jimpastorino2417]

Disconnect the battery first thing.

[@Filthycasual123]

Please say what engine it is in the beginning of the video

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

The 200C only comes with the 2.4L.

[@davidwilliams4783]

Do the pcm need to be reprogrammed

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

I didn’t reprogram anything. It worked great anyway.

[@ccm200121]

Great vid thanks

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Thanks for your feedback. I’m glad you found it helpful. Please subscribe if you don’t mind.

[@ccm200121]

@@JoesCarSmartsNY Any knowledge with the new 200s is very helpfull

[@fleezy886]

Thank you

[@OmenProductions1]

I saw that you removed the vacuum pump, did you have to re-seal it?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

OmenProductions1 It’s sealed by an o-ring. I was careful enough (and lucky) enough that the o-ring was in very good shape still so I did not replace it. If the o-ring is damaged or brittle it should be replaced.

[@mainsfortes5778]

Should you not start with battery disconnection first?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Yeah. Better to have it disconnected.

[@lwill4075]

Does anyone know if there's 1 or 2 thermostats in the 2016 Chrysler 200 limited 2.4.

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

I don’t know what the need for a second thermostat would be. The engine should only have one. There could be more than one temp sensor in the engine depending on the design tho. Not sure on that.

[@lwill4075]

@@JoesCarSmartsNY ok thanks

[@ruelhinds871]

Did you have to drain all coolant?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

No. The more coolant you can keep in the engine for this, the better...unless maybe the car is due for a coolant exchange anyway. I used those plastic pliers to cut off the coolant flow from the radiator to prevent excessive loss of coolant during the process.

[@arve6203]

Thanks

[@user-vk2nv8lo5z]

My girl has the same car and it says every so often that it's overheating and throws the code. Then it's back to normal like it never had a problem

[@frankieriezinger9970]

Hey do I just tap on the air pump

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Frankie Riezinger That would work. It has an O-Ring around its mating surface so be careful. Maybe spray a bit of PB Blaster or something in the mating surface. That could also let the O-ring slide better. Be careful not to tear the O-ring.

[@frankieriezinger9970]

By the way you skipped a few things it's helpful

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Frankie Riezinger Glad it’s helpful. I spent a couple hours figuring out the harder parts. I wasn’t able to video everything.

[@miguelperez5634]

How much a job like this cost

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Not sure. I do it myself so I don’t have to pay shop rates.

[@ignacioramirezbautista2056]

Can you do this for me please?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Ignacio Ramirez Bautista Sorry, I stay pretty busy with my own projects. Best of luck with yours!

[@cliffmcguinness9335]

Thank you now imma go and struggle it doesn't look fun.

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Haha. It’s not a great time.

[@aaliyahlott4998]

Did this every throw the service engine throttle light on? I am throwing same code, but today the service engine throttle light came on in my car while driving and now I’m panicking at what it could be. Same exact car as you. Any help would be great, thanks in advance

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Aaliyah Lott I did not get that light on this car. These two issues are on separate systems and wouldn’t be connected.

[@aaliyahlott4998]

Okay thank you I have seen a lot of people saying that both come on, at the same time but no one posts the outcome with these models. And the only code it throws is the one you mentioned. Thanks a bunch

[@frankieriezinger9970]

I'm working on the 2.4 in a Cherokee latuide

[@freddybanks9952]

I have 2016 Chrysler 200 and this code just came on. It only has 39k smh

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Freddy Rodriguez Yep. It’s silly.

[@freddybanks9952]

Coolant was a bit under the max line and I just filled it passed the line and after a day the check engine light went away?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Freddy Rodriguez The way this code works is that it monitors exactly how long the engine takes to reach operating temp. The actual coolant level (as long as it’s between min and max) doesn’t actually change this issue. You may have a thermostat or sensor that is borderline as far as meeting the exact requirements the ECM wants to see. Do you know if you’re dealing with this exact code? That being said, when my brothers issue began he did add a bit of coolant and the light went out for awhile. Later on the light came on and stayed on.

[@freddybanks9952]

Yes sir the code that came up was P0128. I bought the thermostat from O Reilly’s today and I’m thinking of just getting it switched out so I won’t have any problems later on down the road.

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Freddy Rodriguez You could wait a bit longer to see how things go. It is a tricky job, but your experience sounds just like ours.

[@ken30966]

This video helped out a lot. Thank you so much. Also fuck that bottom bolt 😂

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Glad this helped you. Agreed about that stupid lower bolt. Pain in the ass.

[@armands774]

How long did this job take you?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

I think about 3 hours but could maybe do it again in 1.5.

[@christopherpaul9131]

First thing you should do is disconnect the battery fyi. Don’t wanna mess up that ecu

[@djfreez8724]

My god, the thermostat use to sit right on top and a child could replace it.... A lil bit more than I'm use to,,, Ill buy the part and pay the $93 labor charge.

[@BlakesGarage1]

What can't Doug Heffernan do!?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

😂

[@CarlosAguilar-kd1fl]

Lleva 2 termostatos?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

I think this one only has a single thermostat.

[@CarlosAguilar-kd1fl]

Joe S. El mío es 2015 3.6, sabes cuánto lleva?

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

@@CarlosAguilar-kd1fl I’m sorry. I’m not exactly sure. Mine is a 2.4L

[@CarlosAguilar-kd1fl]

Joe S. Gracias!! 👍🏼

[@tokert562]

Is this Paul Bart bro?🤣

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

👀

[@26FoxRacing]

Thanks for the help BTW........ You don't have to pull the stuff off the top, it's still a pain in the Ass, but can be done.... Can Chrysler put more crap there...lol

[@Aarons14bugs]

What a pain. Ill stick to my Hondas.

[@moparbro]

Whoa

[@love2cook532]

HUGE DIFFERENCE between the 200-C and the 2.4 from the same year that you showed here. SMH. Not even close, dude.

[@josueacastillo]

You need that bracket back on for vibration purposes dont listen to him about that. Engineers didn't put it just to look pretty smh. And please disconnect battery before ecu or ecm is disconnected. Smh other than that, good job.

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Thanks for your feedback. You’re technically correct of course on both points. I absolutely should have disconnected the battery before a starting. As for the small bracket, although you’re correct, I have not had any issues with the bracket missing.

[@adrpals2324]

Dealer in my area wants $1100 for labor and parts.

[@JoesCarSmartsNY]

Whoa. Parts were around $70 from the dealer. And I took 3 hours to do it. I could do it again in way less time. That’s a HUGE labor charge. I wonder how many hours they quoted for?

[@coronapack]

Well fuck. Ty

[@kaybowers3849]

Im sorry but fuck this car this is crazy for a thermostat

[@asdfgh9518]

its really bullshit