2015 Ram 1500 Lower Ball Joint Replacement

My own truck needed lower ball joints, so I figured I would film it to show anyone who needs to do it to their own truck so they know what they're getting into.

[@stevestogsdill5791]

Thanks. I've looked at a dozen videos, even 1AAuto's, but you're the first one to show how to get the lower factory ball joint out that has those crimps on top. Appreciate the help.

[@bradmckay2041]

Me too

[@maxwell4282]

“ Straight enough for me “ 😂 thanks for the vid.

[@charleswicks5007]

They make a needle tip for the grease gun that will allow you to service those moog joints zerk fittings

[@nkf_gh]

This ball joint is greasable. It just uses the needle style. Is there a reason why you only torqued the wheels and not the ball joints nuts and the axle nuts? Great video and straight to the point. Gonna do this soon.

[@dodge33445]

Nothin like the special BLASTER... PB :) Works like a champ

[@BIGCITY81]

How did you get the cup to stay on the bottom of the control arm? The one i have that looks exactly like the one you used keeps slipping off

[@spazzz84]

Balljoint looks like its greasable. The silver insert in the top is where you put it in. Need a needle tip adapter for your grease gun though.

[@GormanRepairs]

I was thinking that but why on earth would they switch to that when they’ve used regular zirc fittings forever and didn’t even change the threads

[@dodge33445]

@@GormanRepairs I agree. Thats the dumbest set up EVER !

[@jcewl93]

​@@GormanRepairssomeone that commented on another video said that the zerk fitting cut his CV axle boot, so that's most likely why they're using a flush fitting for a needle type grease gun.

[@adrianesquivel2946]

They are grease able. The indent on it needs a needle point just like the drive shaft

[@lucid484]

I use loads of Anti-Seize as I also live in the rust belt. But correct me if I'm wrong, but using it on bolt threads, affects the torque values. Also aren't you supposed to tighten down the axle nut while it's loaded (wheel on and sitting on the ground). Might be why your wheel bearing is already leaking, if that's how you previously installed it.

[@GormanRepairs]

I usually don’t use anti seize on anything that has a vital torque value, mostly on bolts with the good-n-tight spec. But also most head gasket procedures in the service manual tell you to oil the head bolts before installation to get the correct value, so there’s that. And no not the axle nut, if it were something like one of the control arms you definitely need to install them loosely, and lower the vehicle onto its own weight and then tighten them.

[@markcole146]

While viewing, you said that your ball joint is not grease able, I believe that is not correct, I purchased the Moog replacement lower ball joints, and the description said it’s a grease-able fitting. So that tiny dish with a tiny check ball in the center is actually a flush style grease fitting. cdn.mscdirect.com/global/images/ProductImages/3990600-21.jpg

[@lucid484]

@@markcole146 Not all ball joints are greaseable. Even the same manufacturers can sell different versions.

[@vick.2018]

You sound disappointed but you’re the one who ordered them.

[@GormanRepairs]

They’re fine, I was just hoping they were greasable. Sometimes you can’t tell those things when buying parts online or there’s only so many options with the supply chain these days

[@robcruickshank6304]

Thank you sir 🙏 🍻

[@michael1204]

Do i need to get the alignment done for replacing the lower

[@GormanRepairs]

You really should, especially if you have nice tires. It’s the right way to do it

[@charliec5653]

Anytime you do anything with the suspension, you should do an alignment.

[@daniramirez6043]

How they holding up so far? I need to change mine soon

[@GormanRepairs]

They seem to be just fine to me. We’ll see how they do over the winter with some plowing haha

[@billy-bo-dilly]

I have a 2WD 09 Ram 1500 that needs ball joints. Mine are crimped in and was told to buy the control arm as you were. IDNK it was possible to cut or chisel the crimps and press like normal. My LCAs are steel and cost around $700. That is insane if I can just press them out. What aftermarket ball joints did you use?

[@GormanRepairs]

Yea they do recommend the whole lower control arm since those big rubber bushings go bad eventually. I bought Moog, but I hear they’re going down the toilet these days so other brands may be better at this point

[@snoykster2216]

What ball joint press did you use? I have the old old Harbor Freight one and wonder if I should get a Maddox one instead.

[@GormanRepairs]

Yea mine is the Maddox one, it’s pretty good for most applications

[@gabrielmckinnon5862]

I have a 2016 Ram 1500 90k miles. How many miles was your truck when you needed to do this and what made you decide it was time?

[@GormanRepairs]

I was checking over the suspension and found that they had some play in them. It was alittle over 100k miles.

[@gabrielmckinnon5862]

@@GormanRepairs Thanks For the Video. I Will do this too Soon.

[@eliasesparza3603]

Here’s a tip knock out the axle from the spindle before removing the spindle

[@GormanRepairs]

You can’t physically remove the axel until you remove the top control arm, it’s too long and that’s by design. So it has to be halfway apart before you can get it out. I agree that if it’s all rusted together, definitely remove the axle nut and get the spline free from the hub before you pull anything else apart, but I replaced the hub a year or so ago and greased the spline so I knew it wouldn’t be rusted together

[@thicktuananh]

I have to do soon :(. The service manual (shopkey pro) said that don’t recommend replacing the lower ball joint, should replace the aluminum lower control arm and ball joint. Why? And is good if only replace there ball joint? Thanks

[@GormanRepairs]

Yea, they recommend it I’m thinking because by the time the ball joint has play, so do the rubber bushings where the lower control arm mounts. Next time I will do the whole thing but I figure let’s just do the ball joints for now

[@JalopyTechnology]

The bushings will last 300,000 miles. They sell the whole arm because there is more profit...and most schmoes don't have a cheap Horrible Freight bearing press to do the job. Plus their lawyers don't want the liability if the installer has zero skills

[@theDanK814]

do you think you'd be able to access that lower ball joint by only detaching the tie rod and slipping the axle out and moving the knuckle to the side?

[@GormanRepairs]

Well you can’t remove the axle without popping the upper ball joint out. It’s designed like that on purpose I think. And trust me, I don’t like to do one more little thing than I have to, to get a job done haha

[@theDanK814]

I just did my lower Saturday and I was able to keep the tie rod attached and only undoing the upper and lower...I had to sit the knuckle on a jack stand and stabilize it with a wratchet strap to the spring..

[@GormanRepairs]

@@theDanK814 well yea you could leave the tie rod attached, but the purpose of removing is to make it easy to pull the brakes with an impact and make everything easier in general since you can swing the spindle back and forth as needed

[@RickySlatton]

The ball joints are greasable. You need the adapter for your grease gun.

[@GormanRepairs]

What adapter is that? Grease cannot go in there

[@RickySlatton]

@@GormanRepairs it looks like the port for this Tool W54216 Grease Gun Needle Nose Adapter.

[@seancota5454]

You need to grease them! Use a needle attachment!

[@GormanRepairs]

Use a needle attachment and do what with it exactly?

[@tokslut]

Nice one, thanks!

[@GloRails]

look at that wade of cash he has in his pocket

[@GormanRepairs]

What does that mean?

[@casman9635]

​@@GormanRepairsHe's probably refering to the tools. Most people who aren't at least hobby mechanics don't have lots of tools. Floor jack, stands, ball joint press, big hammer, 1/2" Milwaukee impact, the roller tool box to the side, etc. I have all of those things (I'm a Milwaukee tool guy too), but most of my friends don't. That's still hundreds of dollars in tools not including the tool box. That's my guess anyway.

[@lJUSTwanaCOMMENT]

What? That is greaseable. The fitting is where it always is. It's a low profile fitting. You need a needle to grease it. I would hope this is already in the comments.