2x72 Belt Grinder Buffing Wheel Attachment Build

I went ahead and built the 2x72 Belt Grinder Buffing attachment prototype. Surprising results!
► Link to Plans for the DIY Tilting 2x72 Belt Grinder ►► bit.ly/2Pa7JvZ
►► Take all the hard work out this build and buy the Ultimate Build Bundle for the 2x72 Belt Grinder ►► bit.ly/2WIPgt4
►► FACEBOOK GROUP FOR DIY BELT GRINDERS: / diybeltgrinders
► 2HP Iron Horse Motor ► bit.ly/2UUZMhR
► VFD (To Control the Motor) ► amzn.to/2XLg0vd
► Reverse Switch for VFD ► amzn.to/2OVUWgA
► 2x72 Wheels ► bit.ly/3vwq3Vn
► 2" Wide High Carbon Steel Plate (For platen face) ► bit.ly/37qo2wM
4.5" Hole Saw ► amzn.to/2UdWW77
Tap-Magic ► amzn.to/39lXBsa
Welding / Grinding Mask ► amzn.to/2tMS5yP
Porter Cable RO ►amzn.to/35zkkOD
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[@CCCfeinman55]

I will use a 1” polished shaft and will cut a key way for the drive wheel and threads (left-hand and right-hand respectively) at each end for the buffer wheel mounts. Nice! You’re managing to make this belt sander into a master tool station.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Yeah that will work better than the threaded rod for sure. 👊🏻😁

[@chrisroosendaal4169]

That tool is turning into endless possibilities! I’m glad your cutting table is opening up all these possibilities I enjoy watching it cut versus the 5” grinders now because I know how much of a pain in the butt cutting plate is with them!! Keep up the vids and enjoying the pod cast they have been great! 👍🏼👌🏽🔥

[@HouseMadeUS]

Awe man Chris thank you so much!! Another podcast drops tomorrow. 😁👊🏻⚡️

[@helicopterjohns]

This will be a welcome addition to your 2 X 72 Belt Grinder. I made one similar for my 2 X 72 Belt Grinder. Not having your welding skills I made mine with all bolt and nut construction. This unit opens up a whole new opportunity for adding additional features to your machine. I also use a 3M Scotch Brite wheel on mine for deburring and cleaning up parts. It is probably the most used tool in my shop. Thanks for sharing! John

[@mikehegdahl5393]

Just got the 2X72 build kit from you! Could not be more happy! Very clean! Looking forward to putting it all together and building these accessories!

[@HouseMadeUS]

Awe yeah Mike!! Have fun with the build. 😁👊🏻

[@ianmoz7313]

Awesome Brian! Super happy that it turned out on the first try. Keep it up. Always happy to watch your content. Wish I could get this stuff built.

[@bobweiram6321]

I salvaged several 1.5" nice wheel bearings from discarded Toyota serpentine idlers from my mechanic. They can be bolted on and make an excellent idler and tension pulley. I adhered a rubber pad as a tire on one of them and crowned it with a sandpaper and file.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Excellent idea.

[@randystrong750]

Soaking in Vinegar, you are right on sir. I have been working with all types of metal for close to 40 plus years, learning from my father whom had a extensive metallurgy background. After going thru courses on welding as well has been proven as well. You are right about welding that metal as well. The big thing is it is a major time saver especially when your metal is prep with removal of Mill. Keep it up your work.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Thanks for the cot of confidence. So many people like to tell me that tip about the vinegar is BS. It really works and is a great way to prep steel for just about anything. Cheers Randy! ⚡️

[@chousewert]

Excellent presentation as always!

[@HouseMadeUS]

Thanks mom! 😘

[@lloyd4768]

You could also try 3/4 drill rod that might lessen the vibration.

[@HouseMadeUS]

How would I attach the polishing wheels. I can’t seem to find something that would allow for that on a smooth shaft.

[@lloyd4768]

You would have to thread the ends or use some type of locking collars. But they would run smoother in the bearing blocks.

[@scottwengert5440]

@@HouseMadeUS tinyurl.com/y95w5d7p right hand threaded tapers could be a good solution (also check out their bench mandrels, same concept). and this video too kzbin.info/www/bejne/d2XIpqtrprl5jJY for more info

[@Joseph-Colin-EXP]

fricking rad. that's what i'd use to sand my knives. jewelers rouge and the buffing wheel. show room shine every time!

[@MrBostjanVidmar]

This is a very cool attachment, maybe I do something similar :) The only suggestion is to cover the drive wheel with some sheet metal. When you look at the workpiece while polishing you forget about the sandpaper on wheel near your knuckles.

[@jimkeith3579]

I would definitely NOT put on a 36 grit belt lol probably a worn out 400 :)

[@leekollar3298]

Nice build Brian! For the gusset in the back you could cut a small 45 degree angle on the 90 degree corner and that would help with fitting and welding. When it comes to shaft vibrations I would try a different material of round stock. Also research green loctite. It help bond bearings and collars to shafts. Countersinking the allen set screws might help as well! Cool attachment build! More versatility for sure!

[@chiplarkin1029]

Great idea Brian. If I were to build this attachment, I would use a smooth shaft of 1” diameter. I would step down the ends to ¾” for a length of 3 to 4” or more. This gives you a built in stop for your big black washer. Then thread the ends for about an inch. If your buffer wheel/wheels don’t take up enough of your 3/4” length, you’ll add ¾” ID spacer collars after you’ve placed your outside big black washer to take up the unused portion of your ¾” step down section. I have two large buffers/grinders with the motor in the middle of the shaft and that’s how they take up the unused wheel length. They came with a variety of spacer lengths so you can reach your threaded end. I will have to check if one side of the shaft is left hand thread to avoid unwinding the nut.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Very well thought out. I am wondering can I get 3/4” smooth shaft and put 3/4 - 10 threads on that or do I need 1” shaft to start?

[@chiplarkin1029]

I like the 1” with the ends turned down to ¾” because it give you a shoulder to tighten against, no collar. As you face the buffer, the left side would have left hand threads so the nut doesn’t unwind. The spacer collars would go on first , then your first large black washer, buffer wheels and then the second black collar and the nut. Also, I would mill a pair of flats on the 1” section for a wrench to hold the shaft while you’re tightening the nuts.

[@johntaylor1947]

It looks like it works well. It may run with less runout if cold role steel rod is used for the shaft and thread each end , allthread is not as accurate in diameter as cold role and not as straight ether. I plan on making one Thanks.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Yeah I think you’re right. I need a way to thread on the nuts. I don’t think a die can make new threads?

[@davedunn4285]

Another nice update Brian I reckon you have made a multi machine . So cleaver

[@davebranson4051]

Excellent work and absolutely a kit or finished product I would buy for my 2x72

[@HouseMadeUS]

Thanks Dave. This is definitely a passion project for me. I really enjoy this work and it has given me renewed passion for life through purpose. Thanks again for watching and commenting

[@mike-carrigan]

Don't think I will be building this part anytime soon but, good to see it works if I get the need for it.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Thanks Mike. I just thought...doesn’t everyone need one of these??? 😂

[@TheZepone]

That’s ace! Man, I’d love to make one of these. Love it man. Greetings from the U.K.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Thanks man!! Yes! 😁👊🏻

[@donsolberg2540]

His is perfect! I have a small shop and every inch counts. I was on your website looking for plans and couldn’t find them, did I miss something? Than you for all your videos and knowledge, I have learned a lot from you, please keep it up! 😊

[@MrMikeHousewert]

Another GREAT JOB !!! I believe a solid PREMIUM shaft without threads may be a better solution to a potential vibration. Then put your own threads on the ends to accommodate the necessary nuts to hold the polishing wheels. You might also consider fine thread instead of course. Lastly, now you have to design a dust collection head to catch all that is being generated. You probably already have that idea in the pipeline . . . knowing you as well as I do.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Yeah I’ve got a few things lined up for a replacement shaft. Thanks Dad! 😁👊🏻

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Hell yah man, best of both worlds.

[@HANDFORGED]

Crazy, I came up with the same idea, but in such a way that I have a large contact wheel and also a polishing wheel.

[@kentuckytrapper780]

What ever works for you bud,I think it helps 100%. Just keep on keeping on. Great video.

[@the_sharp_carpenter]

I'd second the drill shafting. And a ¾-10 die to cut threads in the last inch. Wouldn't need the inbound nuts just the stop collars you already have. I built a buffing wheel set up just like this but with a stand alone motor, was always fighting the the threaded rod. Set screws would get loose, the rod it self is easily bent, etc. Good looking build, loads of potential.

[@tybearnb]

Awesome it worked 1st time out great job Brian lemme know when when your selling the plates kits

[@HouseMadeUS]

Thanks Tyson. This one is really useful.

[@roncrandall]

GENIUS!!

[@HouseMadeUS]

Thanks Ron!! 😁👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻

[@tedmattingly7564]

I think your overall design is good, I wouldn't shorten the shaft anymore because you want to be able to get into places. Vibration is just a necessary byproduct of buffing wheels, they're just not meant to be precise. If anything, I would consider drilling a register spot for the set screws on the pillow blocks because they will continue to back out if they're only hitting on a thread or two on the all thread rod. Great build though, every concept build has got to start with stuff from around the shop and the little caster wheel was spot on 🤠

[@derekreay3879]

Thx so much for the great idea and summery for the buffing wheel attachment. Would you please consider adding your parts to the comments ? I’m having a hard time finding wheels with that size I.D. Thx so much.

[@jimcollins9316]

You may think about eccentric lock pillow block bearings. I think they would work better and they wont dig into the shaft, so easier to remove the shaft from the bearings.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Okay I’ll look into those Jim. Thank you. 😁

[@johnknox5692]

nice looks like keeper

[@HouseMadeUS]

Thanks John!! 😁👊🏻

[@rexwillmer759]

Hi Brian just thinking to reduce the harmonics causing the vibrations you could reduce the overall length of your shaft and centralise your drive wheel between the pillar blocks and centre that on your tool holder arm with your buffing wheels equally spaced but as close to the pillar blocks as is possible. I realise that the belt angle from the motor to the drive wheel will be an issue but it’s worth the workaround to minimise any vibrations you can as my experience is they never eliminate themselves. Overall its great first first effort and going live with a beta design is bold, keep the ideas coming- Rex from Melbourne DownUnder

[@sudo_nym]

You HAVE to be happy with that, Brian! Nothing ventured, nothing gained, mate 👍🇬🇧🤜⚡️🤛🇺🇸

[@HouseMadeUS]

Lots of venturing these days. Hoping to hit that mark! 😁

[@lawrenceogden8682]

great machine

[@HouseMadeUS]

Thank you Lawrence. 🚀💯

[@adamg1408]

Another shaft option would be using 5/8" (or even 1/2") threaded rod, but weld sleeves that are 3/4" OD (ID to match threaded shaft) where the pillow blocks and drive wheel will rest. Or buy a shaft from McMaster (or other supplier) that has just the ends threaded as needed for the bore of the buffing wheels but the rest is 3/4" OD. I'm going to check with some shops in my area about getting a 3/4" rod threaded to 5/8" on either end (about 2" on either end). I suspect that having the rest of the shaft solid will lend it to being a lot more stable since there's more material to keep it aligned. This could also help eliminate the pillow block set screws from vibrating out. update--- Local shop has quoted me a price of ~$160 to create a shaft that has 2-3" of thread on the ends, with a LOA of 24". That's 3/4" OD (on the smooth). That's less than McMaster Carr IIRC. Plus, they're a local business. Might be worth getting something similar set for the final design. IMO, the solid shaft except on the ends (where the buffing wheels would go) will be a much better option. Sure, threaded rod 'works' but I can see issues doing that. I might even machine a keyway in it (depending on what the shop wants to do that) that would work with the drive wheel.

[@piecetoyou8285]

To ease vibration you might need to counter balance the left side what weight you have on the right from centre apply the same to the left

[@Donorcyclist]

Brian, taking off the scale from steel is a great idea for all of the reasons you mention. Ignore the nay sayers!

[@HouseMadeUS]

Thanks Jon! 😁👊🏻

[@GlennLaguna]

Tip. Take a scrap piece of wood and hold it to the buffing wheel so that it heats up. Wheel will accept compound much better. Caswell Plating has a PDF under Polishing for tips on buffing/polishing.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Awesome tip. Thank you.

[@GlennLaguna]

@@HouseMadeUS yeah the Wood held to the wheel till it gets hot is not in the pdf at Caswell. But it works. Also a good quality large stainless wire brush is good for truing wheels when first setting them up, prior to compound. I feel better than the specialty buffing rakes they sell. But both have their place.

[@adrianhernandez974]

Que buena herramienta, me gustaría saber cómo hiciste el discos de mezclilla. Saludos desde Mexico

[@mannyfilmsinc]

Nice! Could you please tell me where did you get those buffing wheels? thanks

[@RoadHead62]

I'd replace that all thread with some ground drill rod. That will reduce some of your vibrations. Over time, the vibrations WILL have an effect on one or more of those thread grooves and you're going to have a catastrophic deconstruction.

[@derekreay3879]

Hey Brian... I know how busy you've been with everything going on, just wondering if you've had a chance to revisit your buffing wheel attachment suggestions and how they worked? 😊

[@HouseMadeUS]

I haven't yet Derek. I Iliad a bench buffer now. I couldn't get this one to really work well.

[@DunderOz]

You could turn the caster wheel rubber true on the lathe 🙂

[@noeosorio5370]

buena idea

[@bigdaddy741098]

I'm sure someone has already asked this, but..... is there any reason you couldn't build this as a permanent thing behind the grinder? So the platten is on one side and the buffer around the back, would probably need to be on a pedestal base instead of bench mounted. I'm lazy, so a permanent attachment solution would suit me better 😁 oh, and I subscribed, 2 or 3 videos and I've already picked up a bunch of tips so thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍👊 Quick questions .... how much do you dilute the vinegar, does it depend on the severity of the rust or is the ratio always the same, can you soak the steel for too long? Cheers

[@Islandbushcraftwildcamping]

Great building one this weekend oh pls be careful the buffer is and always be the most dangerous tool in the knive makers shop some maker refuse to own one

[@phillipkirbow8567]

Use a left-hand thread on the left side to keep it from unthreading while in opperation.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Yeah that is a good idea. The lock nuts seem to work really well.

[@narsirkesi3881]

I want to buy the plan of the product in the video, can you write the sales link for it?

[@dominicbianco3826]

Here did you buy the buffing wheels i really like the blue one.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Got it on Amazon for $17 - amzn.to/39nNTbb

[@thomasking2081]

GREAT VIDEO,, DO YOU THINK A SMOOTH SHAFT WOULD WORK BETTER? NOT SURE HOW TRUE ALL THREAD IS.

[@Journeyman1642]

Is that the CNC machine that cuts the parts when someone orders the big 2x72 parts package?

[@HouseMadeUS]

No, I have the parts cut on a laser cutting machine in Dallas. This is just a plasma CNC for prototyping.

[@Journeyman1642]

@@HouseMadeUS ah ok. I’m in the process of making one, I bought the plans but it’s taking me forever because I don’t have the right thickness plate metal so I’m having to weld pieces together and then cut the shapes out. I could just go buy what I need but what’s the fun in that. 😂

[@zerocontent3171]

Before you use that thing make sure to put a piece of plywood or steel in front of your lower bench.... For when you eventually fling a blade into it you won't break that glass front on that wine chiller.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Oh yeah it’s bound to happen. Lol

[@roncrandall]

What type of vinegar for the steel(apple cider, distilled)? Or does it matter?

[@HouseMadeUS]

If you’re a hippie use organic apple cider vinegar or like me use standard white vinegar. 😂

[@roncrandall]

@@HouseMadeUS White vinegar it is!!!

[@vincentgolden5352]

Winner winner chicken dinner hey i was curious if this could be used in a application with the replaceable rollers like the attachment you have to utilize 1/2" or 3/4" wheels it would be cool if you could attach it quickly via bearings that look similar to train wheels if you look at them straight on thst way you can still use 3/4 shafts just maybe a kind of race that you can turn on your metal lathe. im going to email a crude drawing of my idea hopefully you can make it a reality. Great video thanks for sharing takecare and keep safe.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Yeah man, email me the drawing I’d like to check it out. Glad you like the prototype btw. 😁

[@vincentgolden5352]

:-) :-) :-) i just got my steel shipment this yesterday evening. I am now dealing with a massive T-storm and are currently without power is that ironic or what lmao. I will draft something up please forgive the crude drawing i dont have any cad or computer programs.

[@neobikes]

what is your plasma cutter you did used?

[@HouseMadeUS]

Crossfire Pro 😁

[@ozzyfranf]

You should always prep your metal before welding.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Totally agree.

[@damnageink330]

I use the caster wheels on my grinder lol

[@richardtullius6419]

Not a good use of a lock washer, lock washer needs to lock up to something solid, not a squishy buffing wheel. Otherwise I think this is another great tool you have come up with for getting more use from your 2x72.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Yeah its definitely a work in progress.

[@jasonlevinson4892]

Keep using the vinegar man!!

[@HouseMadeUS]

Yes! I need this support!! 👊🏻😁

[@pjseiber2774]

Explain the vinegar dip. What it's purpose is. Also is it 100 percent vinegar or do you dilute it with water or something else?

[@HouseMadeUS]

Just household vinegar. It dissolves the mill scale from the steel.

[@sudo_nym]

See Jason at Fireball Tool for a great idea on how to remove internal welds on box section steel. He’s got a great video on it! 🇬🇧🤜⚡️🤛🇺🇸

[@HouseMadeUS]

I need to build one of those! Haha! Need some time! 😂

[@sudo_nym]

House / Work Ah yes, time. I remember that 🤣

[@radoslawjocz2976]

This threaded rod is not a good choice for the shaft it should be plain rod

[@HouseMadeUS]

Yeah you’re right. Good thing it’s just a prototypes 👍🏻

[@danmays1935]

You really ought to quit using lock washers. According to NASA (and many other engineering reference material) these are a waste of money. NASA Reference 1228 (1990) "Fastener Design Manual" is quoted "its locking ability is nonexistent... [and] is useless". ~ I quit using them over 50 years ago. However, your ny-lock nuts are a good idea and a proven product.

[@HouseMadeUS]

I have heard this but I do find using them for certain applications. Especially when there is a lot of vibration happening. Perhaps a video should be made testing this all out.