3D printed propeller - Will it perform?

[@Athiril]

Given the much lighter weight, you could print it a fair bit thicker, to give more to work with for sanding smooth. Solvent Vapor polishing too might be ideal. Any roughness on the leading edge is gonna cause issues, same with wind power generators after a few years etc. interesting idea since you could try any kind of design you wanted

[@EleanorPeterson]

Not really a relevant Comment for such a high-tech video, but I remember hand-carving props for rubber-powered planes in my free-flight days. It was just a normal part of the process - you'd get a plan, buy the balsa, build the airframe, carve the prop... Tricky but lots of fun. Although they were huge and had wide, high-pitched, paddle-shaped blades, they weighed almost nothing. Most were whittled from a single block of wood, but a few really fancy ones were laminated from several sheets. If you picked the wood carefully (contrasting reddish and yellow-white balsa) they looked great - just like the stripy full-sized ones from WW1 biplanes. They were fragile but I don't think I ever broke one; even the biggest rubber-powered models only weighed a few ounces so things happened very slowly and gently. Yay for long grass! :-)

[@AndrewNewton]

I have a hand carved prop, made it for a wind indicator. Challenging project

[@Burn377]

I'll admit it performed better then I expected.

[@Moonsauc3]

Very cool. Especially if your unable to buy or break your last prop. It could get you back in the air for the end of the day flight.

[@lasersbee]

There's also a lot less Jello in the video with the APC prop.

[@WeAreTheTrueMedia]

So interesting to see the friction from layer lines not affecting amp draw. Great while waiting for an order to arrive.

[@AndrewNewton]

Yes the amp draw was greatly affected. Higher current required to cruise.

[@loc4725]

I've wondered what the result would be if a prop was 3D printed, so thanks for the video! If you were going to do it again though I'd be interested in seeing it in ABS with the acetone treatment to smooth out tge surface. This is probably where a lot of the noise & drag is coming from so it would be interesting to see if that makes a difference. Also I must mention please wear safety googles whilst doing these tests! A slashed eye or buggered retina is no good for your depth perception...

[@AndrewNewton]

Unlikely to revisit this, but thanks

[@typxxilps]

noise is a product of inefficiency ... same speed , more energy consumption, less range good to know to save the effort.

[@hambone4779]

You should try to bake the print to add strength, plenty of videos about it. I'd also try PETG.

[@wordreet]

Interesting, and although I would never want to have a 3D printed prop as near my face as yours was in this video, here's Angus's view on strengthening any 3D print.

[@josephrossman1600]

Ive been 3d printing folding props from thingiverse and they are great for experimenting! If you print in abs acetone smooths it out as good as a real prop. I've also printed them with nylon.

[@AndrewNewton]

Interesting.

[@cemilkahveci5169]

Hi, im looking for printing folding props . Because i wanna build a foldable coaxial contra-rotating system but i cant find CW foldable propeller. Is it possible to contact to you for cad drawings and printing tips ? My e-mail adress is [e-mail]

[@rcpowres]

Tried the version 3 of it. Works fine for a spare propeller!!!!👍

[@AndrewNewton]

Thanks for the update

[@rcpowres]

I printed it flat (90degr turned) with a lot of shells and 100% infill. I picked petg. Additionally I will paint it and rebalance it afterwards. Probably a lot of work but having a prop when shipping time is an issue (weekends, national holidays etc.) is worth it!!!!

[@szajba8106]

Talon: *getting down for landing* Andrew: "I'm sorry, brittle one"

[@AndrewNewton]

Ha, rewarded with a tougher prop

[@Robbedoes2]

Printed some 75 mm 5 blade edf fans in pla, 3400kv on 4s is still not enough to let them explode. Good thing is printing is cheaper than buying a new fan and now I can just print ccw and cw fans for my hovercraft. Okay, they draw a bit more current when adjusting the pitch to achieve the original thrust and the responsive is a bit worse, but yeah it saves me around 5$ (new one is like 7$?) every time I break one. I had less luck with thingiverse props tho.

[@DrDisintegrator]

ABS or PETG (or ideally Nylon or Polycarbonite) would give you more strength. One nice feature of the Original Prusa's with the E3D v6 hotend is they can print these materials out of the box.

[@georgeaura]

I wonder if some thicker ninja flex print would still work but be more durable

[@AdrianoCasemiro]

Nice experiment. Balancing is certainly much harder on the homemade prop. It shows vibrations are all over the rpm range.

[@EnglishTurbines]

I knew someone years ago who lost an eye to a prop which shed a blade...No, I'm not kidding..

[@colddash5598]

I’ve had a damaged prop split and one blade flew right by my face...I always wear safety or sunglasses now even with quality new props

[@AndrewNewton]

Nasty!

[@dragonshr280]

i had a grinder blade explode and sliced my 2 fingers and role up my arm my fingers where just hinging there barley connected. i also had leather welding gloves on . first hospital wonted to take my hand. sec hospital wonted to save it with 90% use. and they did. i got lucky. since then i well always ware safety even with my planes. the fact it can do more damage then just taking your eye. plus i had a prop snap and stick in a sheet rock wall like a throwing knife.

[@R.B_B]

Detail about the APC props. They have a metal wire in the prop for stiffness.

[@AndrewNewton]

I didn't know that!

[@JimEdmiston]

Try printing it with PETG!!! Not sure why so many people are still using PLA considering the functionality and durability of PETG. PLA has the benefit of being biodegradable but PETG is recyclable. You decide.

[@AndrewNewton]

I'll get there eventually

[@JoshWeaverRC]

Awesome. I think I'll give this a shot. Thanks Andrew.

[@AndrewNewton]

Safety glasses and a high necked coat might be a god idea

[@pumkigho37]

How did you throw it without the propeller hitting your hand?

[@AndrewNewton]

Just have to give a positive level throw and follow through with your arm. It's well clear when the prop passes.

[@xhussein]

What if you try make it using carbon fiber nylon filament instead of pla ?

[@AndrewNewton]

PLA is all I have tried

[@mikegriffiths7487]

Interesting to try. I did something similar when I first got my 3D printer but soon concluded that commercial plastic props are so relatively cheap and so much more robust that it’s not worth the effort to make your own. Very good try though; you have certainly got to grips with the technology very quickly.

[@AndrewNewton]

All new and exciting at this stage

[@stevefox3763]

I looked at props but decided that at the cost of them to buy vs the time and cost of printing them it wasn't worth it. The brittleness can be combated by printing it in PETG, I've been playing with that and it's very strong and more flexible than PLA but I still wouldn't bother printing a prop in it unless I had a very specific need that I couldn't buy. I'm going to be sticking to printing things that are custom to my needs and buying the cheap things. Currently my printer is working hard making a custom enclosure for a omnibus F4 based antenna tracker, took me hours to generate a model even though I took many different existing designs and chopped them up and pieced together in an editor to make mine!

[@AndrewNewton]

Yeah, dumb idea.

[@stevefox3763]

@@AndrewNewton not dumb, there are a load of things that dont make financial sense to print that just have to be tried because they are so amazing but are a try just the once sort of thing.

[@PaulKind3d]

I may have to go this rout with my custom RC Airboat. I need a real aggressive 4+ blade prop. Ideally something like a racing prop for a real airboat. Unfortunatley my boat has a rather odd prop size of 8" and therefore my choices are super limited. This is the boat... kzbin.info/www/bejne/mp2yi5SOaJp_bKc

[@martinturner5484]

I've always wondered if you can get extra strength by baking the part after printing a close to the glass/printing temperature. In theory it should help it slightly reflow the layers and therefor assist bonding, but I've never really tried with something that needed the extra strength.

[@AndrewNewton]

Annealing, put it in a pre-heated oven at 60 to 80C and let it cool to room temperature. Must try it

[@MickB235]

I find that multi blade spinners not that easy to come by in various sizes. I assume it's possible to print a spinner of uncommon requirements if you're able to print a prop ?

[@AndrewNewton]

Yes that would be a good use, it's on the list

[@capthowdy126]

im getting ready to play with this idea. my first prop i tried at .2mm layer height an that was way to corse for my liking but it still printed so im gonna try it again but this time im gonna drop my layer height to .08mm an see if this helps with the finish an after that im gonna give it a shot on one of my resin printers an it will be printing at .05mm layer heights so it should give me the best results but ive not been printing with resin long so i dont know how the standard resin i have will hold up or if i should use something else.

[@AndrewNewton]

Interesting experiments James. Good luck

[@cr-us9ch]

Better to break the prop than bend the motor shaft. You can also strengthen them with acetone

[@sharpnesstherapy502]

No thats abs. Pla doesent dissolve

[@MasboyRC]

So cool.. try to make 4 leaf blade propeller 😁

[@thorstenbonnesen1021]

I’m total impressed with the ender 3 pro. I like the printer.

[@user-xz9st8hm1n]

i have been thinking about buying one. way more affordable than the others

[@mtlfpv]

@@user-xz9st8hm1n I got a cr10 mini which works great. The ender just looks like a more compact version of it so it should be great too

[@thorstenbonnesen1021]

kimmy j i came from the to mono price mini v2. The MP has a good print quality but the print area is to small. The Ender 3 Pro have 225 to 225mm and is okay for me. For my office room is the printer size okay, a bigger printer is too big for the table.

[@ALIRaza-MCE-]

I also love 3d printer but here it's cause double cost to import it. + A shity permission from government.

[@ac808]

Andrew try some nylon filament for the propellers - plenty of videos on here to help with printing with Nylon on the Ender 3. :)

[@AndrewNewton]

Moved on from printing props, never going to be as good as a moulded one

[@Robbedoes2]

It will not improve the performance that much in my experience. Improving the 3d design is more effective untill you get limited by the material.

[@orangetech8419]

Hello, Even I wanted to design a propeller but I don't know how to design to design according to pitch (I know about diameter) but If we want 5.5 inch pitch how to design

[@AndrewNewton]

No idea sorry

[@Steveme1973]

Andrew, you should try PETG instead of PLA

[@ancelrick5396]

Printing at higher temperature too changes the strength of PLA. A higher resolution may improve things a bit too. It sounds like he's done with the experiment however. He's probably not inclined to continue the development.

[@NMdesertracer]

pteg or abs!

[@AndrewNewton]

Not a lot of point pursuing it really.

[@maxun1]

What you need to do after sanding is painted with crazy glue all over let it dry and balance one more time.

[@rparts1]

I dont know how true but I will find out more and test ...I have heard if you heat up the design PLA will get stronger

[@loc4725]

And supposedly shrink.

[@rparts1]

@@loc4725 yep that too !

[@AndrewNewton]

I did read about annealing, must test it on something

[@wdave6944]

Ok. So maybe it wasn't as good as a commercially available prop (and it took hours to make) but... you just HAD to try it! I would too! (in fact, I'd probably try again and again- but that's just me) Thanx.

[@AndrewNewton]

Haha, just had to know for myself

[@immortalsofar7977]

The new resin printers are probably the way to go. Thanks for doing this experiment.

[@woogieman02]

I believe that is what getfpv does for their shop props, at least for prototyping. Probably an industry standard now, as it is much cheaper option

[@peterzingler6221]

@@woogieman02 that resin isn't very stable tho.. And if you really want good props you can't do anything other then milling a fitting injection mold

[@wingsmh27]

Need help 🆘 I'm also trying to make 3d printed prop. But don't understand infill pattern and infill percentage for proper balance prob. As banggood stop product delivery in India due to Pandemic.

[@AndrewNewton]

Might be best to have infill as 100% for a solid prop. I just used the defaults in CURA

[@theoztreecrasher2647]

You're bound and determined to keep that new toy rolling Andrew! Perhaps, if you are near a bushfire area, you can take advantage of the new proposed Backpacker volunteer working rules. 3 shifts a day! ;-)

[@AndrewNewton]

Ha, print you slackers, print

[@jeffallen3382]

At the :30 mark it looks like you have weak layer adhesion. Right at the center of the hub your layer lines are not even bonded to each other. I bet that has a lot to do with this 3D printed prop breaking on you. Plus the rough texture you have on that... You might want to try to optimize your printer for better quality prints and retry this...

[@AndrewNewton]

I don't think it's worth persisting really. Even with a higher end printer

[@jeffallen3382]

@@AndrewNewton you don't need a "higher end printer". You just need to set your settings correctly. A sub $200 printer could properly print that any day.

[@kanarimentos7056]

hi andrew i was looking for type of this video how about resin printer could be better what you think

[@AndrewNewton]

No idea about resin printers

[@mystamo]

Great video.. Wonder if you are still doing this stuff.. Some insane crazy good engineering filaments out there now that would kill that PLA one. I think if you can print a prop then go to a store then that is a huge win.

[@AndrewNewton]

Still cant beat a moulded one for strength and smoothness unfortunately

[@justinsurla6043]

0:47 ASMR!!!

[@rcpowres]

Gooood jobbb!

[@RCVit]

Отличный принтер!

[@prep0wer]

APC or no PC for me

[@prep0wer]

Slow fly props work even better in low and down wind.

[@prep0wer]

This may be a better disign: drive.google.com/file/d/12w2jSE_l_IbchAg58EJmOnXoP6rIgx94/view?usp=sharing or full plane: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3358880

[@AndrewNewton]

Me too

[@prep0wer]

@@AndrewNewton KZbin site of the NUFU designer: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jom0aqGBh8Seisk

[@richardsurey6167]

Your Z axis is binding, fix that.

[@XyberZyen]

Is not a bad idea. I prefer breaking alot of those 3d then having to buy new unes and white 2 months or pau expensive unes.

[@kitt28]

well that is to bad, i was hoping this would have worked out, i been wanting to use my ender 3 to print propellers for my drone. it would be cheaper and i wouldn't have to wait a week for them to come in the mail!

[@AndrewNewton]

I dont think you could print them smooth enough

[@GroundControlRC]

Very nice test Andrew! I would have been one of those betting that it would fly apart in flight. You proved me wrong ;-) See you in the Air!

[@AndrewNewton]

I assumed it would too. But impact with the ground broke it like a normal prop

[@Convolutedtubules]

I will be printing a few PE6035 tomorrow morning as I just broke the only two props I had. Wish me luck!

[@AndrewNewton]

Good luck!

[@Convolutedtubules]

@@AndrewNewton I am currently printing the 5th one, they are taking forever at 1h45m each but they are starting to get me places!

[@RobisonRacing68]

A lot less jello with the real one too.

[@AndrewNewton]

Much smoother for sure

[@Jimgoodwin846]

thanks for testing the printed prop...so we don't have to waste our time...haha

[@julianhumphrey4843]

I would never trust a 3D printed prop but good on ya for trying

[@JoshWeaverRC]

Any prop can go, but a 3D printed props trustworthiness would depend a ton on the quality of the printer. I happen to have a high quality printer that with some post treatment I believe would handle the stresses. I'm currently printing impellers in metal for real world use. I think the key is that we take advantage of the 3D printer to eliminate the weaknesses of it as well.

[@AndrewNewton]

That's quite advanced!

[@LightsCameraandLego]

Nice! I did the same thing.

[@antonblebann6823]

Not really a Surprise. You can print allmost Everything, allmost,😉 but Props...!? maybe with Fiber reinforcement, they can last, but how to get the Carbon into the Prop? I think the brittleness of the printed Items is the Major Flaw of this Technology. Keep going, When will You show us some Building, Constructions, of Wings or whole Planes? Greetings from🐜🔛🇦🇹 Vienna

[@jeffhampton8781]

You never know until you try.

[@bobwebber8521]

I always cringe a bit when I see hand launching with a pusher. Man if a blade lets go as it passes your ear goodnight nurse. They come off like stiletto dagger blades.

[@bobfin4291]

Talk about Chomp chomp time, look out mate

[@SomeGuyInSandy]

Neat!

[@kjenkin53]

Interesting experiment, certainly had things shaking at the back end. Did it break in the air, or when it hit the ground? Suggestion: when balancing, instead of using tape, which can come of, try layers of your wife’s nail polish (can buy clear if you don’t like her red. Lol). Can keep adding layers to the tip, or scraping a little off to balance.

[@AndrewNewton]

She uses clear so I'm good to go. Great tip Kevin, the tape does fly off occasionally.

[@FPV420.]

Nowadays, it's trendy to print planes, props, you name it. 3D printers are just not meant for such details. It's a great idea if you scratch build a plane and print some parts though.

[@AndrewNewton]

Yes, great for camera and component mounts but not wings etc

[@DadsRCHangar]

Very cool, shame they are not as good. Maybe you can design your own. 👍🏻

[@AndrewNewton]

I imagine it would be a very complex design task

[@robertsimpson4693]

It's nice to see it fly, but why didn't you simply do a BENCH TEST. Thanks, Robert

[@AndrewNewton]

Cant determine cruising current on a bench, flying is more fun anyway.

[@robertsimpson4693]

Thanks. Field Test gives a better video too !

[@lwill53951]

Some think this is a waste of time but I disagree so thanks

[@AndrewNewton]

Thanks to you. Experimenting is never a waste of time

[@EnglishTurbines]

Worth watching for the final scene, the rest was quite predictable tbh...lol...At least you may have saved others from wasting their time....🤔🤔🤔🤔😎

[@AndrewNewton]

I waste my time so that you don't

[@EnglishTurbines]

@@AndrewNewton Yes, I realise why...I have to say though, that printed prop is potentially an accident waiting to happen. I wish you had highlighted this in your video.