4L60E Power Flow - Manual 1st, Manual 2nd, & Manual 3rd

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

Thank you for being here! If it feels right to you, help me spread the word about this channel… 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder (60 sec): kzbin.info/www/bejne/kIKrpaWMe7p7ms0

[@nicoleblackkattransmission2230]

I am amazed by the quality and quantity of information in all of your video series. I'm so glad I came across these videos in my research. This is not an easy area in automotive to teach and you nailed it! I rebuild 4L60/65/70 transmissions in a one car garage at home and I am mostly self taught. The knowledge I have gained from just this one video alone, is phenomenal to me. Thank you so much! I thought I was a gear head before, but this has justified my love 🥰 for my automatic transmissions.😊 I wanted you to know that I mentioned this channel to my former instructors and chair of the Automotive Department at the community college in Austin as a vital resource for the Auto trans class. I hope this helps. I don't have a mentor anymore, but I wish it was you guys🥲 Awesome job!!

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

Mostly self taught...right on! That's awesome. You sharing the videos is super helpful, and very appreciated. Thank you! Thanks for dropping me a line! Made my day...

[@fanfare466]

Thanks

[@girlthewonderdog8763]

...SOUTHPAW IS INCREDIBLE ... REMINDS ME OF SOME INSTUCTORS IN THE ARMY🙂

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

You're too kind. Appreciate you taking the time to drop me a line.

[@tedkay5272]

Most in depth 4l60e videos on this channel!

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

Thanks for watching, and dropping me a line!

[@hyeeagle]

Great videos great explanations. Today’s day we don’t do any transmission rebuild at the dealers but dealership still requesting to be ASE certified, you won’t believe how much you helping technician to pass this test with your detail by detail explaining. Thanks for everything.

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

That is great news! Thank you for the positive feedback. I'm here to serve... Thank you for dropping me a line! PS - Please help me spread the word about this channel. Here's some easy ways to share... 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2S5mquXlKqWZ6c How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview) kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIizhJSCmsaCjqs

[@BigFun4Life]

Your videos are very informative,Thanks for sharing your knowledge...

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

Thanks for dropping me a line.

[@muddsgarage2877]

Man this helps a lot. I’ve rebuilt several and had good luck. One recent has a binding in manual low only. Everything else seems nice and normal. Not sure of cross flow or electronic over hydraulic or what. But anyway, keep making the videos!! They are informative! Thanks

[@glowvid]

Awesome video!

[@evonteroberts5045]

Love the video left nothing to question about the functions of a 4l60 e and not to be an ass but I don't see why people are asking questions in the comments the video explains everything

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

The positive feedback is appreciated.

[@dwreed63]

Excellent video. Your knowledge is incredible, and I appreciate the way you explain things. I went from completely ignorant to having a decent understanding of how these AT's work. Thank you!!! 🙏💪💪🍺🍺

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

Right on! I'm really glad to hear that you're getting something out of this video. I'm blown away that people were able to design these modern marvels. You might enjoy the series on hydraulics....the most misunderstood part of the transmission. The series is far from complete. It's a work in progress. Pump: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXuYdJeGf9R9r8k PR Valve (Line pressure): part 1: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e33Le5-Qp86Xf7s ...part 2: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnvPhpiZbpaenbs ...Part 3: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hoqUpaWQmrGkiq8 AFL Valve: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gqKlnJebnLWdhM0 Shift Valve: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIHLnmpsh6mtbLs Shift Solenoid: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJKmmYqjmNh0nas

[@dwreed63]

@Southpaw Autoworks , thanks for the info, you can bet I'll be watching. I think I've watched about 7 of yours already. I'm highly impressed with your knowledge and ability to explain these highly complex assemblies in a manner that people like me can easily understand! 🙏

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

The positive feedback is appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line!

[@russellstephan6844]

Any suggestions at next step testing to isolate the problem? 1993 (OBD-1) C1500, 5.7l, 4L60E, 236k miles. Executive Summary: The internal electrical harness plug had lost 3 of its 4 snap tabs. It was leaking *huge* amounts of ATF. So, while in there to replace the harness, might as well renew the solenoids, manifold pressure switch. It shifts just fine when cold. But, once heat-soaked, there is no automatic shifting at all. Detailed Events: Over the Winter I'd experience intermittent engine/transmission drop-outs. The truck *is* 30 years old. So, I started working my way around the whole vehicle refreshing electrical grounds -- cut, splice, new lug, solder, heat shrink, Dremel contact point, dielectric grease, and reinstall. The chassis/body body grounds have all been refreshed a couple of years prior. So far, no smoking guns have been discovered. The last ground was the rear tail light. Up on jack stands the truck when and more cut, solder, etc. While the thing was up in the air, I checked the electrical control connection at the transmission. Wow! There was not much of a mating of the two plugs. Well, the thing is old. I rigged up a safety wire solution to try and keep the plugs together. After this effort, the truck started puking ATF in pouring puddles. Once again, I put the truck up on the jacks and discovered the transmission female plug was cocked in the transmission body hole. I see a new internal transmission wiring harness replacement in my immediate future. Also, while in there, I figured I'd replace the solenoids, manifold pressure switch, and PWM mechanicals. And, for grins and giggles, install the Sonnax 1-2 and forward accumulator pistons with their tall no-center pin offerings. I skipped the 3-4 accumulator since access requires the removal of the valve body -- not a pleasant task with the transmission in the truck. I button everything back up and the truck drives and shifts like a dream. That is, until it's heat-soaked in 15 minutes or so. Once heat-soaked, there's no automatic shifting. It doesn't even feel like it's in first gear. I would describe acceleration as a fluid coupling. When the vehicle is actually in first gear, letting off the brake will lead to forward movement. Once heat-soaked, letting off the brake is like being in neutral until more than a little throttle is applied. Manual shifting... I have no reference to go on here... I've *never* manually shifted this truck during my 20 years of second-hand ownership. But, manually shifted into first, it functions as it should. Manually shifting into second produces no noticeable change/shift. Manually shifting into third does cause a shift in the transmission. There you have it! Any other tests or ideas to help isolate prior to playing valve-body swaptronics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[@jamesbarbas]

Awesome channel. Your videos have given me more confidence in replacing my stripped sunshell. My replacement sunshell is tight fitting in my sungear. I can push it down to the clip. I do have a junk 4l60e and that sungear is tight fitting as well. I can deduce that the sungear is OK and the new sunshell is just tight. Is that OK that its tight and not loosly fitting?

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

Disclaimer: Do what I do at your own risk. They can be a bit of a tight fit. Nothing wrong with that. In that case, I will typically spline the sun shell and the sun gear together, on the bench. Then install both of em into the case, as one piece. If I'm concerned about the sun gear falling out of (or off of) the sun shell during assembly, I will lay the trans case on its side for the install of these particular items. Then stand it right back up, for the rest of the installation. Heads Up: If the sun gear should fall out of the shell during assembly, the sun gear could get damaged. Appreciate the positive feedback. Glad you found the channel.

[@thetpai-px2vf]

Thanks ❤

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

You're welcome.

[@hickory4153]

Thanks

[@Shalash87]

I always assumed (and that’s what the literature confirms) that manual first and second were respectively, only first and only second gears. The first of navigating steep grades, and the second for starting and driving in low traction conditions. If what you say is true, what is the point of having two manual ranges doing the same thing?

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

Let me begin by saying thank you. I really appreciate you watching this video, and sharing your thoughts. I was under the same impression as you (D1 for 1st gear & D2 for 2nd gear)(For engine braking and safe acceleration in icy conditions). It's definitely the case for many automatics. However, upon conducting my own research, during pre-production phase of this video, I discovered information that contradicted my original notion, which lead me to share what I shared in this video. Unfortunately, at that time (pre-production phase), I did not have a 4L60E-equipped vehicle handy to take on a quick road test, and make my own conclusions. When time permits, I'd definitely like to get to the bottom of this. I really appreciate you sharing your constructive feedback. I'm on a mission to bring you, and viewers just like you, the best 4L60E content, presented in a manner that's easy to digest. Thank you for being here.

[@rubberbandman2540]

hey brother i have quick question my holden ls1 4l60e box is built been in car for 2 years handles the power well but have noticed recently that it doesnt really engine brake much in either 1st or 2nd and 3rd in manual selection and it did only recently noticed that its not lately wide open doesnt slip atm so give it a hit 1st shift to second the back off and its like im manual clutching in until i get back on the throttle would say thats most likely the input sprag possible spinning backwards now or maybe the overrun clutch is worn ?????

[@zazkariafrady9152]

This is great information. I have a quick question. If you was in Drive instead of OD, would the overrun clutch be applied in 1st and 2nd as well? Or would in not engage until 3rd gear?

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

With the shifter in D (as opposed to OD), the Overrun Clutch will not apply until the trans has shifted to 3rd gear. If you want the Overrun Clutch on prior to 3rd gear, you must shift to 1, and then 2.

[@XxWEEMANxX96]

Hey I got my 2007.5 4l60e rebulit and everything works other then manual 1st. Took cable off and put it in manual 1st at the trans and still nothing and it just defaults in 2nd! Any thoughts??

[@bwingeowin4521]

I thank you for your detail explanation,....its easy to understand. Would you please response my question concerning my Nissan Teana VQ23DE, year 2007. My car have problem which is the automatic transmission can't shift from 2nd to 3rd & 4th gears. My questions are: 1) what are the causes of that problem 2) is oil flushing or filling additive can be solve the above said problem? Thank you Sir and regards.

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with that car, or transmission.

[@stevenkirk2563]

Hey buddy great videos with great explanations. My 4l60e after a rebuild overheats and I loose forth gear. Transmission place is stumped for answers. I have a cooler plus the standard intake cooler in series. Still having the issue. What are your thoughts?

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

I have some ideas, but should probably start with some questions, first. Questions: 1). What's the year, make, and model of your vehicle? Mileage? 2). What was the original 4L60E failure? 3). What codes (if any) were present before the rebuild? 4). Did the original cooler (and additional aftermarket one, if previously installed) get flushed? What method was used to flush? 5). What parts were installed during rebuild? 6). What mods (if any) were done to the VB (valve-body)? Was a VB recalibration kit installed?

[@Martin_Wood_]

Anyone know why my 4L60 e 2011 is loud as heck when shifting down from 3rd to 2nd? If i baby it its so clunky but if i give it gas it dont make the clunking noise . I was thinking bad accumulator but any thoughts?

[@casbch]

working on a built 4l60e, hold down strap (frame to dyno) broke at WOT in 3rd - pushing the driveshaft into the tailshaft housing, tail housing broke causing the weight of the trans & engine to be supported by the output shaft/driveshaft. End result no 3rd or 4th. 1,2 & rev work. No change in operation by varying the shifter position. Pulling it out soon. I'm thinking the 3-4 clutch snap ring came out of the drum. Any thoughts on this would be useful. Thanks for the power flow vid's - it helped understand where this problem maybe. I'll post what I find.

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

Definitely a 3-4 clutch problem (or hydraulic circuit)(or mechanical failure...snap-ring groove blow-out). I've never encountered something like that (dyno). You have my curiosity peaked... The positive feedback is appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2S5mquXlKqWZ6c

[@brayanh3583]

hello i have a 4l60e stage 2 that i just recently rebuilt due to slipping and no 2 3 or 4 gear .i decided to rebuild it at home and after rebuilding i didnt have any gears expect the mains neutral reverse and 1 gear (.i have a 3200 stall as well)i checked out the servo and cleaned it out it finally made a shift from 1 to 2 manually but if i went 3 gear it would go to high rpms .it just started overheating. so had that the stick was too hot to touch i checked the cooler and the cooler was working like it should the oil was really dark and it was new 2 days ago.could it be my tc? because taking off it feels like its forcing itself since it takes off very slow then going lore then 20 it will feel normal

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

Sounds like there's a lot going on... Sounds like the 3-4 Clutch is still having problems. Line Pressure (the highest oil pressure in the 4L60E) is sent to the 3-4 Clutch (piston), when the trans is in 3rd and 4th gear. If there are internal oil leaks in that circuit, it'll cause slipping (high RPMs). There are quite a few possible oil leaks for that circuit. The dark color of the ATF is likely due to the 3-4 Clutch slipping. It's shedding clutch material (paper). And all of the slipping is creating a lot of heat, that will cook the fluid. If the TC is slipping (when the TCC is engaged), it will also create a lot of heat (and shed converter clutch material, and cook the oil). If the trans is indeed starting off in 1st gear, and it still feels sluggish/slow, then the TC would be suspect. The TC is equipped with a stator and a one-way clutch. When the one-way clutch fails, it will cause poor acceleration...or poor top speed...depending on how the one-way clutch is malfunctioning.

[@juandiaz9949]

Hola buen día mi pregunta es según Yo repare una 4l60e y limpie la caja de válvulas pero al ponerla y meter reversa y neutral da para delante espere me pueda ayudar de antemano muchas gracias en espera de su consejo gracias

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

Original Question: (Translated into English) Hello, good day, my question is according to how I repaired a 4l60e and cleaned the valve box, but when I put it on and put it in reverse and neutral, it goes forward, wait, you can help me in advance, thank you very much, waiting for your advice, thank you My Response: That's really odd. When the trans is shifted into Neutral, the oil from the pump, is directed into the valve-body, and sent into a dead end (at the Manual Valve). In other words, the oil is unable to reach any of the clutch packs, with the 4L60E shifted into Neutral. Questions: 1). With the trans in D (OD mode) does the trans have all of the forward gears (1st, 2nd, 3rd & 4th)?? 3). Or does the trans only have one forward gear? 2). Can you drop the oil pan, and verify that the Manual Valve link is connected properly? Note: There's a skinny rod of metal (link) that connects the Manual Valve to the rest of the shifting mechanism.

[@darrenjames3141]

OK, so I have built a couple of 4l60e transmissions, but I'm not claiming to be an expert. But know my way around. So I just rebuilt one and put it in my truck and I put all new electronics in it harness and all and new band and a new seperater plate and all new steals and frictions and I got the Transmission put back in and in D and 3rd just revs like you say and I have manual first and second and then can shift into 3rd and then D/or 4th we'll driving. So I did a bunch of research, and everything said both sprags, so I pulled it back out and bought 2 new sprags installed, both correctly triple checked. And put the transmission back in. And same thing. I'm ready to pull my hair out please what else would make this happen.

[@darrenjames3141]

Oh and also I have a bran new snap on scanner so I can see what is going on with everything. And I have a new torque converter and I put a new 13 van pump in it to. I'm just lost and don't know what direction to go to fix it.

[@alecscosman9193]

Same as you I don't claim to be an expert but have you inspected the 3-4 clutch apply piston or hydraulic circuit that operates it?

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

***UPDATED*** I was hoping to get back to you sooner.... My initial thought was regarding the Input Sprag. Either installed backwards, or it was faulty (not holding under load). It sounds like you've covered your bases on the Input Sprag. Meaning, it sounds like you've got it installed correctly (triple-checked), and we can probably rule out a faulty sprag, seeing how you installed another new one. I'm now leaning towards the Forward Clutches. If the Forwards are not coming on, then you won't have forward movement with the trans shifted into in D position. And same thing with the trans in D3....at least when shifting from Park to D3 (taking off from a stand still). However, when you shift to Manual Low, now you get forward movement. This is because the Overrun Clutch (sometimes referred to as the Coast Clutch) comes on. In this instance, this clutch will essentially bypass both the Forward Clutch and the Input Sprag....connecting engine power to the planetary gear set. When shifting from L to D2, the Overrun Clutch stays on. When shifting from D2 to D3, the Overrun Clutch stays on. The Overrun Clutch has two (2) jobs: 1). Provide extra clutch capacity (towing, etc). 2). Provide engine-braking. A Side Note for Everyone: While the vehicle is able to move, when manually shifting, it's best to not drive it. The Overrun Clutch pack was never designed to handle all of the load by itself. They were designed to work together with the Forward Clutch pack. The Overrun clutch plates are small in size, and there's only two of them. The Forward Clutch plates are larger, and there's a lot more of them. Point is, the Overrun Clutches won't last long taking all of the load.

[@darrenjames3141]

I figured it out. I'm a dumb ass when installing a pinless piston to the forward accumulator. Make sure you put the metal balls in to the valve body to plug the hole.

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

After reading your comment again, now with a fresh set of eyes, I've updated my response.

[@taha_1971]

Hi sir I have 4l60e and i have the following issues 1- reverse is so week and sliping 2- first gear in manual is not breaking it only egages when i press the throttle Otherthan that every thing is working fine Note that breakinkg is working ok in 2nd manual and 3th manual Can you help about what could be the issue

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

Thank you for providing detailed, yet concise, information. Much appreciated. Here's how each of the gears are achieved. Reverse: 1). Input-Reverse Clutch. 2). Low-Reverse Clutch. Manual 1: 1). Forward Clutch. 2). Low-Roller Clutch. 3). Low-Reverse Clutch. Based off of the info that you provided, it sounds like the Low-Reverse Clutch is your problem...as it's the common denominator between Reverse and Manual 1. And...it's the Low-Reverse clutch that's responsible for creating engine braking in Manual 1. Thank you for supplying that info. If it were my transmission, I'd be leaning towards that Low-Reverse Clutch as the failure point. Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2S5mquXlKqWZ6c How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview) kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIizhJSCmsaCjqs

[@taha_1971]

@@SouthpawAutoworks thank you so much

[@SouthpawAutoworks]

You’re welcome.

[@Casey-t4u]

Why dont the videos play in order??? Instead of part 3 of 3... It goes to another topic part 1 of 3... Making it hard to follow... Being that you hint to some need to know info, stating that you will talk about that in the next video.... I click on the forward/next button... And it goes somewhere other than the next video in the series... Very frustrating... Please fix this!!!

[@SebastianAdamski83]

Hi man. Amazing videos! Could you tell me what could be cause of little harsh shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 sometimes. It depends how much throttle I use. Sometimes the transmission shifts very smoth especially at 2-2,5 rpm but sometimes it shifts little harsh. I can say I almost always drive on manual 3. Maybe thats the case?