7.3 idi injectors removal and replacement

This is a short and to-the-point video on how to change your injectors yourself on a 7.3 idi (non turbo) Diesel engine. This video will not work for powerstoke engines with a turbo. The exact model of this vehicle is a 1994 ford e350 ambulance.
The engine was hard to start and had significant smoke on startup. I had a mechanic do an evaluation and told me the injectors are leaking into the cylinder which is why is smokes heavy at startup and goes away after running for a bit. I estimate it would cost me $1600 to pay a shop to change my injectors. I decided to do it myself. I found rebuilt injectors on eBay for $300 and I already owned most of the tools. I bought a 1” deep socket, anti seize, petroleum jelly for the O-rings, and a pick set.

[@lazarolaraacosta3390]

Recently i bought a 88 F450 with fuel Injector problems. Thanks so much for the much needed information. G B you

[@reedmelton5219]

Quick question for ya, what kind of behaviors did your truck have when it had the injector problems?

[@superjonboy873]

Thanks man, this will be helpful in the future!!

[@stuartbloom2518]

HI. Just picked up a 93 E350 Club Wagon (working on the engine from front and back inside sucks) with 7.3l idi na. 255k miles. Starting is getting worse and I have a tick sound. Which injectors did you get? How much? Did you do your glow plugs too? How about the fuel supply and return lines to the filter? Any tips on getting to all of the injectors inside the van's cramped engine bay? I'm doing all of these things eventually. Thanks. Your video gave me some good lucks at my future work.

[@ianlouis7033]

Is the ticking prior to starting during the prime cycle? Are you still getting the wait to start light on the dash? If not start with your glow plugs then do injectors

[@stuartbloom2518]

@@ianlouis7033 Hmm. I never noticed the ticking while starting, but it's there while running. My glow plugs appear to be working. My wait to start light comes on or 8 to 15 seconds depending on how cold it is outside, then goes out. If I sit there I get the GP relay cycling, which is supposed to be normal. I'm an electrical engineer, and understand that if some GP's are open or shorted, it messes up the combined resistance that the GP relay control board "sees" and could cause problems. I have yet to pull the harness leads and check the GP resistance. I'm going to rebuild the GP harness anyway since the white plastic connectors are brown and some are cracking. But, all the connectors are still on their GP's. I'm becoming convinced that my problem is an air leak, or fuel let-down. If I start the van cold after a week of sitting, it takes 15 to 20 seconds to start. When I first hit the starter, I seem to "hear" one cylinder firing, and then eventually more, and finally the engine starts. If I start it 1, 2, 5 hours later the same day it starts much quicker. I suppose it could be the GP's and the engine might still be warm. I'm going to thoroughly check the GP's and harness, and then tackle the fuel lines. I'm hearing horror stories of replacement mechanical lift pump failures with the ones now available. I'm going to be methodical about it. Thanks for the info. I guess I'm just going to have to pull some of the fuel hoses to see that the real size is.

[@mattclark6482]

Thank you for the video. People are saying I shouldn't change injectors myself, but you made it look pretty easy. Are 7.3 idis easier to change than most other diesel engines?

[@daveswan8365]

the idi is a very simple injector to change, don't re use the return caps and lines, it's like 40 bucks to change them and should be done when doing injectors

[@dadlife3504]

Magnet won't pick up copper washer

[@onlyfords]

a dental hook and pick set will save your life. i had to sacrifice a flathead screwdriver 😂😂

[@dan-oe7yw]

Where have you been? Are you and your beautiful dog ok?

[@ec6933]

Where did you get the new injectors?