#80 | IR6500 Finally Some Success | What I was doing wrong... How does it work...

[@o_-_o]

I have a hunch about the decoration. Maybe in Poland there is a similar celebration to the Hungarian Mikulás (Mikołaj). If there is, then for us not the Santa Claus brings the Xmass presents.😉

[@blackhorserepairs]

That is correct, October 6th :)

[@o_-_o]

@@blackhorserepairs Interesting. We celebrate it on December 6th.

[@blackhorserepairs]

@@o_-_o oh, did I write October? How did that happen? I mean December of course, Mikolajki, the name day of Mikolaj :D

[@MrGridStrom]

Great to see, thanks for sharing, keep it up. I've reading and researching tons about these machines over the last few days now.

[@blackhorserepairs]

Thank you so much! oh, btw, the flux you recommended, I haven't had much luck with it, what temperature do you use with it? How long? It seems to burn easy

[@shakangel666]

Another sugestion I can give you is to remove the glass of the bottom heater since it will improve the bottom temperature transfer to the board. I also discovered that the thermocouple of the bottom heater tends to come off the actual heater since it only held down with tape. I also stopped using the stock board holders since they are too high and heat is lost by the big gap... but I only work on consoles so I can buy board templates for the consoles I work on so the can be placed lower. Hope this helps

[@3ijnweu3oq3]

What I also recommend which a lot of people had better success because I noticed your bottom temp was super higher than its suppose to be, you should remove the top black glass since it absorbs way too much heat

[@blackhorserepairs]

will do

[@stoptheirlies]

Hi Raff, Sorry to have to tell you, if you google it most manufacturers say you can heat the board up maybe three times. Raff, did you just say you opted to not use flux!! Noooooooo you must use flux. Ahh! you have just said you now understand that, modern fluxes do not conduct or corrode, just clean what you can and don't worry. I often during the process add more flux with a syringe and long needle spout around the outside of the socket, and be very generous with the flux as the self cleaning flux disappears with heat and time.

[@blackhorserepairs]

The flux I've been using must be cleaned and the no-clean flux sucks. Yeah, after all that heating the board definitely is different, very flexible, but I heated it up like 10 times so no wonder 😳

[@stoptheirlies]

@@blackhorserepairs Hi Raff, I find the Mechanic AD Series & CMOV 559 Soldering Flux Paste, quite good, but I am by no means a flux expert. Bob

[@blackhorserepairs]

@@stoptheirlies thank you, I'll look into that

[@peterstorey4360]

Hi raff I've been trying to master this machine for 2 years I firstly moved the glass because it wouldn't get board upto a decent temperature then I put 4 elstein heating plates in made bottom heater bigger still no joy I carnt seem to get the apu cpu to solder level on the board so either the board warping or the cpu soldering unequal hope you have better luck

[@blackhorserepairs]

@@peterstorey4360 2 years? I'm like 2-3 weeks in and yeah, it's challenging but if I can't get it to produce consistent results I will just replace it with something more professional. So far it is very promising, got 3 replacements without any melting or deformation so we'll see. :)

[@games2replay]

There's a common mod people do that own this machine, they remove the glass from the bottom heater as it traps all the heat. Some people even raise the heater once the glass is out of the way. Search for the video 'Hack and improve ACHI IR6500'. Also I am pretty sure you should only being using the fan to cool the machine once the profile has finished, at least that's the case with my Jovy machine.

[@blackhorserepairs]

will do

[@grzegorzwozniak837]

No też właśnie kupiłem ir6500 by zamienić mojego staruszka którego sam robiłem podzielę się moimi spostrzeżeniami 😉jak już będę testował

[@blackhorserepairs]

Awesome, let me know how it works for you

[@kappa7]

It's strange that the bottom thermocouple is measuring the bottom heater plate directly rather than measuring the temperature at the circuit board. Check out FixMyApp's DIY workstation which uses the same controllers with top and bottom thermocouples on adjustable probe mounts. I would have thought the bottom heater should be doing most of the work, getting the board up to 180C so the top heater doesn't have to heat >+150C through the CPU socket.

[@blackhorserepairs]

excellent point, I agree and I have a plan, viewer suggested: remove the bottom plate. I'll look inside this device and see how we can improve that :)

[@ziafathussain8546]

The board too far from the pre heater thats why its not getting that hot you should try and modify the holder and lower it a bit

[@blackhorserepairs]

yep, I improved the heat transfer by removing the glass.

[@mm0077]

In my view this machine is not ideal. The SC IR pro would be better. IDEAL minimum bottom heater 2500 watts. Thank you for sharing. I have subscribed as very interesting explaining your process re this BGA.

[@blackhorserepairs]

yep, the more reliable device goes for over $3k so I will have to make it work with this one for a while :)

[@NaN_INF]

It is too small for this board. The bottom heater should be larger than the board.

[@blackhorserepairs]

as long as the heater is centered under the socket, it doesn't need to be very big, plus you don't really need to heat up the entire board, on the other hand if you do you minimize flexing. Well, they don't seem to make them big enough to cover the entire motherboard, at least not in my price range :)

[@Deus_57]

@@blackhorserepairs The bottom heater is very important. The more of the pcb it covers, the better the whole process will work. How much of the PCB is hanging out of the machine? Almost half of it? Modern boards with having many layers with probably large copper planes suck away more heat you'd imagine. Adding one bottom heater element will make a lof of difference already.

[@blackhorserepairs]

@@Deus_57 very true

[@shakangel666]

No... Hb is not that... that is a mistranslation of chinese to english probably. Hb is the diference between SV and PV before continuing to heat up. Put it to 10 and run a profile... you'll see that there is never a difference of more than 10 degrees between SV and PV. That option is important to ensure that the programed temp doesnt rise up too quickly before the actual temperature.

[@blackhorserepairs]

yeah, documentation is very misleading about that for sure