A Confused Carpenter sees the light!

[@allysloper1882]

For everyone who is asking what Oakham is, Oakham is the county town of Rutland in the U.K's East Midlands....Oakum on the other hand is hemp fibre mixed with tar which is used for filling gaps in wood, at one time oakum was made from old rope that was picked apart by prisoners sentenced to hard labour as part of their punishment

[@jeremywestern7067]

Do NOT put limes in that wood... the citric acid will attack the timber making things worse

[@WarmDryHome]

Yup - the job's a bit of a lemon really..

[@bigbaskin587]

What do you think they used before cement, lime is fine. Lime is even used as a finish to furniture 🙄

[@UnitSe7en]

Clearly it's a job for a cantaloupe. Ya'll don't know what you're talking about.

[@UnitSe7en]

@@bigbaskin587 _Someone_ doesn't get the joke. 🙄

[@epodekomsthehunter5756]

Limestone ya nutters

[@JayCWhiteCloud]

Brother Peter!!!! Another wonderful video...Excellent on all points and a great example of now to install proper "conservation methods" over the work some "walley" did...Another building saved!!!

[@WarmDryHome]

Hey! Good to hear from you ... 'bout time you made it over the pond.. Getting busy here - more surveyors - giving me more time to start on the vids again, and still bashing the damp wallys - who get ever more devious.. Hope you're happy and well - and growing great veg!

[@donkmeister]

Good to see that you and your carpenter mate are taking time to think about the logic of water runoff and what's best for the building! I love old houses but over the years I've seen so many where people have applied the logic of "this is damp, so I must waterproof the surface!" without thinking if that will keep water in exactly the wrong place. Oh the smelly cellars I have seen.

[@WarmDryHome]

Yup - and those smelly cellars just needed ventilation and a tiny bit of heat sometimes..

[@oldtimers6460]

Oakum is the original caulking used on ships to seal the joints between timbers , usual hemp or jute mixed with tar ( pine tar is light in colour so was more used )

[@WarmDryHome]

That's the stuff.. if it seals boats, its ok for timber frames!

[@gleff3345]

Great to see you are back Peter. Your movies are always interesting.

[@WarmDryHome]

Thanks! Been a bit busy - but taken on more surveyors, so now finding more time... :-)

[@ACE-st4rh]

Welcome back Peter. Your content's been missed.

[@WarmDryHome]

Thanks! Been rather busy with conservation projects - but got new surveyors on board, so hope to do a lot more of these now...

[@harveysmith100]

Very sensible. Understand what is actually going on. Old timber framed building get wet and dry out if you let them. Brickwork, (my subject) gets wet and dries out if you let it. People in offices using computers design modern buildings with all sorts of modern materials without truly understanding damp and condensation. Your comments regarding cement mortar versus lime mortar are spot on.

[@bradburyrobinson]

First question then, what is Oakham?! (I imagine it's some sort of filler!)

[@WarmDryHome]

Oakum - hemp, soaked in stockholm tar, wound into a rope and hammered in. It's used to seal the decks and planks of sailing ships, so if it keeps boats afloat, it keeps timber frames dry. We first used it on the roof of Windsor Chapel after the fire, and its still not leaking, so I reckon it works! Our Heritage House website has caulking kits for sale - oakum, lime putty and caulking iron for repairing and sealing oak frames...

[@xxyxnxwxaxx9724]

@@WarmDryHome am I wright to think its horse hair as when I work on the canals installing lock gates I would use horse hair I think they called it oakham.

[@cheshstyles]

@@WarmDryHome thank you sir. I enjoy and learn from your videos!

[@oldtimers6460]

oakum was a mix of hemp or jute fibres mixed with tar ( pine tar usually )and forced into seams (caulking a ship seam ) this creates a water tight seem .

[@WarmDryHome]

No - its hemp , soaked in Stockholm tar...

[@tenthdimension9836]

Ignorant question. What is Hot lime? 2:49

[@WarmDryHome]

Nothing ignorant about that question - hot lime is non-hydraulic, usually made as needed in small batches - using raw lime, which is mixed with gritty sharp sand and water slowly added. Theres a chemical reaction turning calcium oxide into calcium hydroxide, which liberates a lot of heat - which also helps with initial setting. We dont like hydraulic limes these days - they set too hard and become quite unbreathable - hot lime is much softer and more breathable and flexible, closer to what the old boys used. Note: We are NOT talking about builders lime here - nearest product to buy in a bag is Calbux 90.

[@stevewood7884]

I love these old buildings, lots of character and history.

[@gooeybongos]

YAY!!! I'm so happy your put up new videos today! I've had a bad day and this really cheered me up. I love seeing the old buildings and your explanations of what went wrong and how you propose to fix it. Thank you and please keep posting videos!

[@WarmDryHome]

Thanks Tara! We try hard - and yes, I like doing them.. We are going to try and present them a bit better - I want to do a bit more technical stuff on the solutions and causes - so might do one or two on the causes of dampness as well...

[@Liberté-bell]

I would like to know how to identify lime as opposed to concrete. xxx

[@RedHeadForester]

Generally I think lime mortar tends to be paler and less uniform, and noticeably softer if you scratch it. Concrete/cement tends to be darker in colour and with a more uniform appearance. It's also hard, but brittle. This is just based on my observations growing up in a listed building so I might not be 100% correct.

[@reggiewac]

I wish you put out more of these!

[@WarmDryHome]

There'll be more - I'll be doing more now that we have a few more surveyors to help out with the survey stuff - leaves me free to do more of the teaching / helping stuff...

[@reggiewac]

@@WarmDryHome Out of interest, can I book you for a telephone 'survey' to educate me in what I need to be aware of when planning an extension to my solid-wall 1920s house? Not quite a survey, but I would love to pay you for some case-specific education.

[@Steelcity321]

Good to see you doing new videos! Keep it up.

[@WarmDryHome]

Thanks - we try to please - been a bit busy.. but getting there!

[@HalfManThirdBiscuit]

Peter's *scrape scrape* is the normie version of Styx's *spoon clank*

[@bernardguynunns5658]

Do you guys not use DPC?

[@WarmDryHome]

Nope - damp doesnt rise. Make things breathable - moisture cannot be trapped and will just evaporate away.

[@RedHeadForester]

I'm not entirely sure why KZbin recommended this video to me, but this is fantastic information, and well put across. Thank you.

[@WarmDryHome]

My pleasure - we're building a bit of a community here - love to hear about other folks experiences with old houses - we need to share skills to keep these places going..

[@conormcdade841]

I have a old stone cottage connected to a derelict barn to the side, the cottage was renovated about 25 years ago (not by us) an from my information they kept the stone cottage an put breezeblock infront the whole way around to raise the eaves of the house an roof. we have noticed some damp along the front. is this coming from the barn (along the front of the barn all the gutters are broken) or is it possibly because when they renovated they trapped the moisture in with putting breeze block an cement infront off the old stone? can I add you on something to show pictures or videos

[@symonsheppard5519]

Conor Mcdade I would say that in most cases it would be the broken gutter, if it's a barn roof there is a lot, a huge amount of water running off with no collection point, in light rainfall there will be tens of litres a minute running off that roof saturating the front of your house. Look into that first, hope that helps.

[@WarmDryHome]

I'd check the barn and gutters first - but you could be right - certainly the gap between block and wall needs ventilating.. Ground levels too - below level of internal floor? Check all drains...

[@jasoncougar194]

Here in the states carpenter's are now doing electrical in union settings.

[@cheshstyles]

No shit?

[@thesunreport]

I would like to ask about wood hardeners.....i know this is a (potentially) graded/histroic building etc....but is there a place for wood hardeners here??...i've used the Ronseal one and it's been good so far....i should think it would at least protect that bottom part of the post before the lime mixture??

[@WarmDryHome]

I wouldnt use anything - any chemical interference will result in moisture entrapment. Its kindof dealing with the symptom not the cause. Ideally, sort the reason wood is soft (concrete, silicone etc) then honest repair by removing soft timber and slicing in a plate of new matching timber (usually oak).

[@thesunreport]

ahhh right yes....putting in a new piece sounds about right....and I did wonder about the moisture thing.....I've only used it on hardwood window frames which were ultimately painted...so a differtent job entirely.....Thanks for the reply though...I find this kind of thing perhaps more interesting that I should :D

[@fatyowls]

I'm probably way off the mark, but it looks like they could've built it out of brick entirely. Was it a transition period from wooden House's to one built out entirely brick. It's when you can't quite let go of the original way if building house's.. I should've added that on my travels I have noticed a lot of house's been built with wooden frames with kingspan then brick..

[@WarmDryHome]

No - this was late 1500's, Listed, but messed around terribly - so has to be kept as is now - but the infills were actually put in the 1930's to replace original daub..

[@jasonbrown7258]

I'm no carpenter but what about cutting the wood beam out and replace it with steel

[@WarmDryHome]

Listed Building = illegal - must repair like for like..

[@ask234b]

what is Oakham??

[@WarmDryHome]

Oakum - hemp, soaked in stockholm tar, wound into a rope and hammered in. It's used to seal the decks and planks of sailing ships, so if it keeps boats afloat, it keeps timber frames dry. We first used it on the roof of Windsor Chapel after the fire, and its still not leaking, so I reckon it works! Our Heritage House website has caulking kits for sale - oakum, lime putty and caulking iron for repairing and sealing oak frames...

[@ask234b]

thanks

[@pauldhennessey]

A vertical support is called a post and a horizontal support is called a beam. Let's start with that

[@WarmDryHome]

Sort of.. there's girding beams, sill beams, collar ties, intermediates - and they are all horizontal.. Many of the verticals are called by different names depending on their purpose..

[@pauldhennessey]

@@WarmDryHome I just looked at the subject of the video which is a rotted post and you called it a beam. The title of the video is , "A confused Carpenter...", after all.

[@donaldasayers]

paulzo islander Er no, it's a strut if it's in compression, a tie if it's in tension and a beam if it's in bending irrespective of orientation. Beam comes from the Old English for tree and so any substantial piece of timber was a beam.

[@dannybrown4124]

@@WarmDryHome yeah thats what he said

[@benmjt]

Paulzo, you're an arrogant knob-head. Let's start with that.

[@rjc862003]

a fiber-blended epoxy would what I would use sure lime is quicker but epoxy will soak into the wood and restore its strength

[@WarmDryHome]

Nope - unfortunately not: . just saw a thatched cottage yesterday - next video going up - frame full of £16,000 worth of peter cox wood filler - entire frame now totally knackered, and needs best part of £100k and new frame - all because damp wallies filled it instead of butting out and letting a decent framing carpenter repair it properly.

[@videogalore]

Not heard of 'oakham' before, can you give any links as I can't find it with my spelling?

[@WarmDryHome]

Oakum - hemp, soaked in stockholm tar, wound into a rope and hammered in. It's used to seal the decks and planks of sailing ships, so if it keeps boats afloat, it keeps timber frames dry. We first used it on the roof of Windsor Chapel after the fire, and its still not leaking, so I reckon it works! Our Heritage House website has caulking kits for sale - oakum, lime putty and caulking iron for repairing and sealing oak frames...

[@videogalore]

Perfect, thank you!

[@flashclynes]

Hopefully these videos reach the right people.

[@two-countiesdashcam]

It's been so long since your last video I was wondering if you were still with us... ; )

[@WarmDryHome]

Oh yes... dont get rid of me that easy... :-)

[@matilda2]

Tried to Google if but no luck. What is oakem?

[@WarmDryHome]

Oakum - hemp, soaked in stockholm tar, wound into a rope and hammered in. It's used to seal the decks and planks of sailing ships, so if it keeps boats afloat, it keeps timber frames dry. We first used it on the roof of Windsor Chapel after the fire, and its still not leaking, so I reckon it works! Our Heritage House website has caulking kits for sale - oakum, lime putty and caulking iron for repairing and sealing oak frames...

[@crm.carpentry]

What’s Oakham?

[@WarmDryHome]

Oakum - hemp, soaked in stockholm tar, wound into a rope and hammered in. It's used to seal the decks and planks of sailing ships, so if it keeps boats afloat, it keeps timber frames dry. We first used it on the roof of Windsor Chapel after the fire, and its still not leaking, so I reckon it works! Our Heritage House website has caulking kits for sale - oakum, lime putty and caulking iron for repairing and sealing oak frames...

[@marcanthonyaskew650]

Hydraulic lime pointed let the timber breath simple

[@mmack3286]

Hi peter, great information videos. I have a beautiful original sandstone fireplace and at either side there plasterboard which looks a bit odd.. my plan would be if you know of how I could bleed the plaster into the sandstone slightly. Have you ever seen this done and if so I believe it's called Welsh plastering?!? Can you advise how and what products do I get if I were to go down this road. Thank you!

[@WarmDryHome]

Probably take plasterboard off, and re-do in lime, which lets you then finish it where you want - breathable, so shouldnt get any salts coming through.

[@RedHeadForester]

What's behind the plasterboard? If there's something with character behind there it might be worth exposing for aesthetic appeal. Or if there's just insulation behind maybe keep the plasterboard... for aesthetic appeal.

[@lyon406]

I would under cut the face of the post (circular saw) and then fill it with "lime". The old wood will keep flaking and peeling and look horrible.

[@RetreatfarmFarmvilleVirginia]

Beams are Horizontal, "Posts" are Vertical.....Carpenter.

[@tonydolton4544]

He’s back, Peter.

[@WarmDryHome]

:-)

[@lurmot]

What ratios do you use for Lime mortar. And what about lime plaster?

[@WarmDryHome]

Gets complex - ideally hot lime mix - Calbux 90 one part, and 2.5 parts coarse gritty sharp sand. Plaster similar, with a lime putty top coat...

[@gc19901]

what's oakam

[@WarmDryHome]

Oakum - hemp, soaked in stockholm tar, wound into a rope and hammered in. It's used to seal the decks and planks of sailing ships, so if it keeps boats afloat, it keeps timber frames dry. We first used it on the roof of Windsor Chapel after the fire, and its still not leaking, so I reckon it works! Our Heritage House website has caulking kits for sale - oakum, lime putty and caulking iron for repairing and sealing oak frames...

[@codifrancisco4351]

I would just fill the gaps with expandable foam and paint over with some type of durable bed liner

[@WarmDryHome]

See reply above - worst thing you can do is use unbreathable materials...

[@pegjames188]

Cut a brick in bottom probability odd one kicking about.

[@jonwhite2706]

? you said dew to lime its rotting out yet you said your gonna pack the base with lime ?

[@WarmDryHome]

No - cement is rotting, lime breathes...

[@jonwhite2706]

@@WarmDryHome 1:01

[@stevendouglas3860]

Great vids guys

[@MikeBaxterABC]

By, "Cement" ... Perhaps you mean "mortar"? ... Portland Cement, is an ad-mix component, of concrete and mortar, and is never use on its own for anything.

[@WarmDryHome]

Yup - correct - portland cement is unbreathable and hard - lime is softer, more breathable - but NHL (hydraulic) limes are now known to be closer to cement in performance than we thought - so we now specify hot lime mixes.

[@MikeBaxterABC]

@@WarmDryHome Nice we use the same hot lime mix here in Canada for repairing old stone work!

[@nakinilerak]

Solid sound advice.

[@WarmDryHome]

Thanks! We try to please... and to be practical..

[@Don.Challenger]

Only solid if the advice is followed.

[@your-a-tubelies-fake-false8764]

money for old rope

[@nettyvoyager6336]

preservation was the word you lost

[@kierenboimufc5940]

Never point a solid wall with cement mortar! Water gets in but can not get out as fro lime it is able to breath. People point there house woth cement based mortars then wonder why they have mould and damp in there rooms of there houses

[@KevinBower-gy5be]

Caulk it :)

[@oscarmuffin4322]

Step 1 - Knock it all down and re-build it without that crap holding it up.

[@WarmDryHome]

Well we could cover the country with Wimpey houses, and have no historic buildings at all - but thank heaven for conservationists like us keeping them all going :-)

[@Clan501-Scotland]

Bit of wood filler it's fine 😂

[@WarmDryHome]

Yeah right.... just saw a thatched cottage yesterday - next video going up - frame full of £16,000 worth of peter cox wood filler - entire frame now totally knackered, and needs best part of £100k and new frame - all because damp wallies filled it instead of butting out and letting a decent framing carpenter repair it properly.

[@chantelletelford1645]

A bit of filler and bitumen paint, done

[@WarmDryHome]

Yup... unfortunately that's just what really does happen, and why so many of these frames are ruined.. :-(

[@delcat8168]

Chantell... Presumably you watched the video with the sound off?

[@symonsheppard5519]

Peter Ward Expanding foam will keep the wet out and can be sculpted to look like the original timber.

[@WarmDryHome]

Unfortunately expanding foam is one of the worst things you can do to a timber frame - it traps water and rots the timber. Do NOT ever put expanding foam anywhere near timber..

[@matthewmaloney5955]

post

[@marshalllhiepler]

Absurd repair. Wood and masonry don't belong paired together, when exposed to the elements. If you are going to repair the problem... do it properly. Support the structure securely, remove the post, and fill the remaining space with brick (for asthetic appearance) or reinforced concrete (for low-cost, permanent repair). Leave the half-assed "band-aid" repairs to the buffoons, whose structure will need to be bulldozed in 15 years.

[@WarmDryHome]

And get taken to court by the Listing Authorities. Removing historic fabric is illegal - replacing with reinforced concrete is the worst thing you could do - a) Not a like for like repair, b) non-breathable, c) rigid and different expansion rates which will destroy the delicate brickwork around it.

[@marshalllhiepler]

@@WarmDryHome, Good points. I wasn't thinking of the historic regulations imposed by others. With that in mind, I would recommend simply replacing the posts with fresh posts of the same wood variety. Otherwise, the structure cannot be relied upon to be rigid in high winds, or even small earth tremors, and would likely be rendered "history" even if it remained standing.

[@freelyfarmexploits8854]

Obviously you do not work on too many protected older buildings. The methods here from Peter are correct preservation techniques using adequate preservation materials. Not all solutions and remedies have concrete in them!