How to Fix an FDP Injury for Climbers (Pain in Finger, Hand, or Forearm)

[@HoopersBeta]

Okay okay which is better though: holding holds or gripping grips?

[@luggedsteal]

Slapping them slopers!

[@alexgalays910]

yes

[@MiguelClimbs]

Gripping dem grips!

[@darrenmarrs6698]

Gripping holds and holding grips. ✊🏻😂

[@sciencerockswithmr.friesen3549]

Slamming jams!

[@uploadsnstuff8902]

You have no rights to deliver such detailed knowledge, with rehab exercices, in such clean format. Most comprehensive channel for climbers out there, thanks so much.

[@HoopersBeta]

Apologies! ;) Thanks for the support!

[@mattsmitt00]

Thanks so much for this content Hooper! You have no idea how reassuring it is to hear a pop at the gym and fear you'll be done climbing for god knows how long, but are able to instead sit down for your video and get full guidance from diagnosis test to rehab plans. We don't deserve you but we sure do need you!

[@Paradyme88]

OK this channel has amazing content. How does this channel only have 26k subscribers? Ya'l hit that subscribe button. Also come on KZbin algorithm. Help these guys out.

[@Kyllleur]

Injured climbers of the world, unite!

[@alexbarcovsky4319]

Just in time. I was doing some 10 mm 3-finger drags when the structure my hangboard is on suddenly moved and fell about 3 milimeters, resulting in a footslip-like situation. Moral of the story: Make sure your hangboard setup is bulletproof. Back to projecting V2 jugs for a month I guess 💸

[@scottypmtb]

THIS was the best breakdown I’ve found to date! I’m an aggressive enduro mountain biker dealing with this issue. This video 100% applies. Thank you!

[@HoopersBeta]

Stoked that you found this to be helpful!

[@100TenaciousD]

Crazy how every time I have an injury I run Hoopers Beta Hand Pain and in 3 minutes you broke down every single thing I did wrong

[@martinaregger5426]

Great Video! At what point in the rehab process could one start climbing again? Only after full healing? Or for example easy open-handed climbing in the retraining phase?

[@HoopersBeta]

Great question! If the injury is not severe and there is not significant pain during or after your climbing it is OK to do so in the early retraining or even remodeling phase!

[@simonfauteux6158]

Damn that is quite precise, you’ve got a subscriber !!! I understand why I’m having all these random strain, discomfort, I’m just weak af from the arms. Time to strengthen those muscles and also STRETCH!! Again excellent video !!

[@HoopersBeta]

Yay! Glad to be of service

[@laceesandberg2596]

A few days ago I basically caught all of my body weight on one finger going for a crimpy hold. It was horrendously painful and I'm pretty sure I have a Grade III strain based on this video. Thank you for helping me to understand my injury and how to treat it! Looks like I have a long road of rehab ahead.

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad the video helped! Hope your recovery is speedy :)

[@julienleveaux3113]

Update?

[@LilStinkyRat]

@@julienleveaux3113 nah Fr we need a update

[@LilStinkyRat]

Update

[@LilStinkyRat]

How’s the finger

[@skate2him]

Pretty sure I have a similar injury but from the diagnosis section, I think it's probably more likely an FDS injury instead of an FDP - would the prevention and rehab exercises be similar in that case or should some other exercises be considered?

[@diogopires3226]

Did you find informaton more for FDS? I have the same injury

[@Siberius-]

Oh that is so funny at 5:22. I didn't know fingers did that when held like that lol. It makes intuitive sense, but I've never thought to do that before, or specifically thought about it at all.

[@UmarB97]

Hey hooper, I'm having trouble placing some pain I'm feeling in my forearm. I feel it on the forearm (close to the wrist, palm-side). It's not too bad when climbing except in certain positions and when it kicks in it can be severe. Any ideas?

[@Syrupjuice]

What a phenomenal episode. So funny and informative!

[@TheXeeman]

the facial expressions when you act out being in pain is so funny

[@jez1548]

Any advice if my injury is more likely FDS from the DDx's? + this video is incredibly detailed and organised

[@diogopires3226]

Did you find informaton more for FDS? I have the same injury

[@andrewmitchell4460]

Can I also perform an easy 4 finger half crimp hang board routine on top of rehab?

[@Bizzebee77]

Thank you so much for the quality content!

[@genin69]

damn, almost thought this was what i had but i failed all of the tests.. my forearm injury remains a mystery..

[@HoopersBeta]

Check out our nerve videos as well! And if it's still a mystery. Book a consult and I'm sure we can figure it out! :)

[@samgoldsmith3759]

Watching you punch your forearms was very relatable! I wish I could say I do it ironically!

[@tb-dv1zc]

What a gem! Thank you very much! I don't climb, I train jiu-jitsu. This information has been beyond incredibly helpful!!! 🤙

[@HoopersBeta]

Awesome, glad it helped!

[@brokepiek]

Thank you very much for the video! I'm happy that you increased a lot your followes since you dropped this video as you for sure deserve it. I test positive on the FDP on the ring finger and have pain only in the forearm if I test with the pinkie down I feel no disconfort. Can it be a muscle strain also or necessary has to be a tendon? Thank you again 🙏🙏

[@georgikiryakov270]

Great vid! Thanks so much! 💪🏼👌🙏

[@georgikiryakov270]

I just realised that’s it’s only my mid finger provoking the sharp pain in and below my wrist and that is in the ‘pocket’ position. However, it’s definitely not a pulley as I can half crimp as hard as ever and I don’t feel any pain when pressing hard against it so not sure exactly what that means in this case. 🤔

[@stasysfidleris3868]

Amazing video!!! Textbook FDP strain here, mild/moderate it seems. Looks like a couple months of recovery time - but I just love climbing so much it's hard not to giver when I'm in the gym. Tell me what I already know but don't want to admit... should I be taking several weeks off climbing on holds that aren't essentially jugs, right? Any recommendations for working on technique while recovering? Thank you so much for the incredible content.

[@kdub9918]

Ex Athlete/coach here I was breaking a fight up between 2 of my dogs and got bit through the top of my hand and out my palm just behind the top of my middle finger knuckle by one tooth. I don’t have insurance so I’m winging it. I have a very high pain threshold but I was literally kicking my leg like crazy in the utility room because I didn’t want to scare my 2 young girls 7-9 but the pain was very intense. It’s been 8 days today and the wound is finally kinda healed still a droplet of blood on the band aid I can bend fingers but can’t close my fist completely and if I touch the spot of the wound it’s still pretty sensitive. My fingers feel kinda stiff and dry also there’s some odd sensations but not too often. I’m worried it could be a flexor tendon but hoping it’s internal inflammation or something like that ANY insight would be so appreciated. I can’t afford to go to the hospital I recently lost my insurance. I’m worried I could lose range of motion or in my hand or worse. I took some antibiotics from my nurse sister it was Doxycycline bc she didn’t have Amox culvate. Any advice,any info,any words of encouragement would be great. I hope everyone going through these similar problems heals up well. *Is it very odd for a deep puncture wound dog bite like this to still be sore and as I described even after a week. I’m a slow healer in general but I just thought I’d be further a long after 7.5 days. If there’s a email I could send a photo to I’d truly appreciate it.

[@sophiagrace9774]

Thank you for this video! I’m not experiencing pain in my fingers but in my mid forearm, almost exclusively in a drag position involving my middle finger. Having googled hand/ forearm anatomy, I can only concluded that it’s the FDP. Your diagnosis charts don’t fully match my symptoms though. Any ideas? (Thanks for another quality video!)

[@radiationshepherd]

My injury is from my job, not climbing, but this is so comprehensive, I hope it will be useful :)

[@HoopersBeta]

We hope so as well!

[@lukasfeller8462]

Hey just asking people! What is the difference between sore arms and fdp? I was climbing for ca one hour and got very sore afterwards like its on day 4, i have the kind of same symptoms, but didnt rip something. But think i maybe did wrong teqnicuqs and overside it. It reels kinda like a good way pain sore feeling

[@N0ENEMIES]

Great video

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you!

[@Luca-cw9kg]

Is there any possibility you can make the same video about a FDS injury? :))

[@HoopersBeta]

Yeah! It's been on our list for a bit now it just keeps getting pushed back by other video ideas, sorry! We'll bump it back up on the list :)

[@diogopires3226]

@@HoopersBeta :)

[@Filipmalek1]

I feel pain in the FDP area when I put pressure on my middle finger, more when the finger is flexed in the DIP joint.This has happened before and I mainly get it from training too hard fx. 2 days in a row. In the past what worked was a lot of stretching, taking a week off and then doing finger rolls. Anyone out here knows the correct diagnoses and a better way to treat it?

[@henrymaguire3857]

Do you have any recommended resources if the differential diagnosis points towards a FDS strain rather than FDP?

[@fair2guy]

Hooper! I'm not a climber, I do trades and finally quit my career after 7 years of chronic FDP strain starting from a tree climbing pop. It's been so painful and difficult to work with, and stressful, and has come with TFCC damage and now Dupuytrens in my palm.. I'm 28. After complaining about it to my doc for years and being dismissed, I was able to look at an old MRI I got for the TFCC and identify the problem tendons. After diving into tendon/muscle anatomy I identified the FDP tendons to my ring and little finger being the culprit. I found your video and I can't tell you how helpful it is, and how grateful I am to finally have something tangible to work with, to have some plan and hope for recovery instead of just watching my functionality degrade. I have bands I will use for the sub-max-holds, and dumbells I can use for eccentric finger rolls. Again, can't tell you thanks enough for this video. I'm on the edge of crying right now because of how impactful this injury has been on my life.

[@HoopersBeta]

So sorry to hear of your injury! But, really hope this helps you in your journey to regain some strength and functionality!

[@fair2guy]

@@HoopersBeta It has already!! Ironically, I just got bit by a dog on the same hand and did some damage to another one... so now I can rehab them both at the same time 😁 Thanks again Hooper!!

[@diogopires3226]

do you have a video specific for the FDS? how would the exercises change?

[@Jimmysage3273]

I pratice guitar 12 hours a day and the said is in my wrist and the muscle line he drew I wonder if this could be my pain

[@Phoenix737]

Not a climber but strained my forearm dunking in basketball

[@Luca----]

Thanks for the beautiful video! So informational and funny! Max hangs should have an intensity about 80% and we increase a bit during the time right? I have just done the 2 months of your rehab and i feel super! Now retraining... Another question. During retraining can i start really easy climbing? Thanks!

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad that you're feeling better! Awesome to hear :) Yes certainly, climbing can be a part of the retraining process :) It's specific, it creates good demands on your body, just remember to pay attention to the intensity and volume going forward.

[@andrewi5286]

Thanks! Super informative. How do you tell the difference between a pulley strain and an FDP strain?

[@HoopersBeta]

There's a section of the video (and show notes) called "Part 5: Differential Diagnosis" that will take you through a series of tests. Compare your test results to the chart and that will help you determine if your pain is pulley-related or FDP-related.

[@andrewi5286]

@@HoopersBeta Yep....I'm an idiot. I completely missed the column that said pulley injuries. Thanks!

[@EricForney-uz4iz]

I think that I have median interosseous nerve syndrome because I am unable to make the okay 👌 sign. I have very little, if any, flexion in the distal phalanges of my thumb and index finger. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[@SCOclimbing]

For the second time on different hands I injured my FDP/A2 (most likely FDP according to the tests) by doing 3 finger crimps and fully down little finger, my test was lumbrical injury and all the other tests were grade 1 and some grade 2 at max. Is that severe or can I progressively come back to climbing after the rehab?

[@guillaumedeplus7727]

Awesome video ! This gives me hope for a rather quick recovery. While doing rehab, is it possible to consider doing upper body training ? Especially pull ups which are bound to exert stress on the fdp…

[@HoopersBeta]

If it doesn't cause you pain during or lingering pain after then yeah that should be fine. But test out the grip. before you commit to a high amount of weight or repetitions with them :) The bar size and if you use chalk to create friction or have to squeeze harder will also matter.

[@ninal9439]

Thanks for this video! Just came back from the gym yesterday after an incident that felt like an injury, thanks to your video I was able to diagnose it, and turns out it is an FDP strain :( Anyways, I was trying to look up your rehab charts in the blog post, but the pictures are displayed only very small and I can't read them. Maybe you have time to fix it? Thank you for your great work, already learnt so much!!

[@harnishansingh7207]

how’d it happen ?

[@mr.apartment]

all these finger videos but nothing on thumb. i have an old injury from trying to catch myself during a biking fall, any advice?

[@bmp713]

Have you or anyone here developed persistent swelling and some tingling in their thumbtips and fingertips from high repetition dumbbells, kettlebells or barbell exercises? What did you do to recover from the problem?

[@chadpurser]

@HoopersBeta I'm having pain directly in the middle of my forearm during overhand chin-ups and movements like military and bench press. I didn't experience pain in any of your tests (except putting pressure directly on forearm), but I still feel like it's FDP, given you diagram. Am I off base? No pain during gripping things, it's the upward movement of an overhand chin-up.

[@HoopersBeta]

If no pain with the tests it could just be because the tests you're doing don't put the same amount of force on the tissue as the movements you described. OR, it could be something else, such as nerve involvement. Check out our other videos on nerve as well and see if that starts to fit better for ya.

[@AllPsychBouldering]

What if there is no pain in DIP flexion but an audible popping noise or popping feeling occurs every time it is flexed?

[@jonasdefreez]

Just found out about your channel last week, great to have good open information about climbing injuries, prevention and training. Hope you’ll make a lot more great content like this!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks! We have a virtually endless list of videos waiting to be made so there certainly won't be an end to the content!

[@Jacob-r4w]

My very first climbing session I tried multiple times to jump onto a hold (V5) and have an FDP injury in both forearms ;[

[@HoopersBeta]

Sorry to hear that! Sounds like you were having a lot of fun (I hope) on your first session.

[@bargesp]

Amazing and comprehensive way Thank you so much. By the way, do you have any such video for fixing Golfer's Elbow? Please guide n help. Thanking you in anticipation

[@phluxx1991]

Regarding the submax hangs I am just wondering: as usual 1 rep = 1 hang and you talk about 30s each rep right? and in the chart it says 12-16 reps with 3 sets meaing 36-48 (18-24 min hangtime?!) hangs ( each session) That sounds very much to me. I might got it wrong though and it is reps at 12-16 seconds and then 3 sets of that? But if so, why you say 30s holds then... mh.

[@flixcubing3745]

Hello Hooper's. I had pain in this area for about almost a month, and the pain in the muscle is also making my fingers hurt to a small extent due to the strings (I'm pretty sure). And the thing is, I don't climb and do activities this often. But I can tell you that I use monkey bars and sometimes strain my muscle, so I was curious if that is the reason. I was also just wondering if this pain will go away and it's sort of making me a bit anxious. I would love it if you can give me some advice to heal the pain as quick as possible. Thanks! Also I think I have a grade III strain.

[@Natester13]

Ok definitely injured my FDP and FDS today by blowing off a two finger pocket. Thanks for the video! It helped me narrow down what feels injured

[@IWkris]

I think I'm prone to FDS injuries, but cant find accessible reading on it. Does anyone have any pointers? Thanks 🙇🏻

[@_josiah.m]

Hey, Im having a hard time diagnosing what my injury is. I was climbing on a small crimp (open hand) and was only able to get my middle two fingers on the crimp with half of my first finger on as well. I did not hear or feel any pops but felt immediate pain about two inches below my wrist into my forearm. While doing the tests, I feel pain while testing my ring finger during the AROM and resisted flexion of the DIP only while curling my pinky. If my pinky is straight while doing tests I feel no pain or discomfort whatsoever.

[@aaronkaplan5728]

I can't find show notes for these charts on your website... do you have links? please advise. great video BTW. excellent -- very informative and easy to follow

[@deathsoulger1]

Brilliant! I understood all of the lingo and biomechanics from my massage diploma. The differential Dianostics test and recovery table helps me miles. I'll still train my flexibility in my hip adductors, and strength training for my upper body antagonists (rhomboids and erector spinae) for good posture going forward. I've just got to accept that I can only give it 80% for the next couple of years. Also, Eccentric contraction; strength/flexibility training seems like a training method I want to learn right.

[@lucianfernandez6256]

More than 24hrs after my last climbing session and after yoga that day I noticed swelling in my index finger MCP. Feels weird and restricted when closing my fist and it's tender when pressing the joint. I have been dealing with a bad shoulder for a while due to weak external rotator cuffs on the same side. Any ideas of what I have got and how to treat it best? Dox said it's inflammation of tendon sheath, but not sure.

[@nay_htoo1179]

I feel a sharp/burning pain in my triceps and biceps including my forearm whenever I climb up rope. The pain intensified whenever I keep using my arm and it’s not only one arm but it’s both. It’s hard for me to do my job sometimes when I need to carry or move heavy equipment. Do you have any advice that you could share, would help a lot.

[@danielrubin353]

Always remember its okay to go to the doctor if you hurt yourself. Its ok to go to an ortho if your injury is truly debilitating. Taking a break from climbing can be the very thing that helps you send that next project. Take care of your body its the only one you have.

[@Lunaa3]

This is the most perfectly timed video for me. I don't even rock climb but this helped me narrow down that I have a lumbrical injury. Great explanations and diagnostic tools!

[@pogo6543211111111]

gamer ?

[@nickywoodward]

hey i did this to my left ringfinger in october last year and it´s still fricked up. I can still climb fairly hard as long as I keep all my fingers on the crimp in half or full crimp position. is it too late to fix it? will it always be this way now ? hooper´s beta

[@bargesp]

Thank you so much for your video. Really helpful. Few doubts- 1. Should we do icing or heating during rehab ? 2. Should we do these activities once a day or twice? (Morning n evening both?) Please guide. Thank you in anticipation.

[@MM-sc4ww]

I'm having a hard time figuring out if I am suffering from FDP or Lumbircal. When hanging from the three fingers at once pain is extremely moderate, I almost don't feel it if i do it with my other hand. If I hang (very lightly) in a hangboard, it still hurts with the three fingers, though. I'm more inclined to FDP, because the pain is clearly located mainly in the forearm, but the fact that it is much more dramatic when hanging only from the injured finger makes it more difficult to tell. Thanks a lot for the beautiful content!

[@FancyWafflesFTW]

The voice shift from "moderate to HEAVY PRESSURE" really gets me

[@nbka8rs]

Solution comps on the way!!! Will I be able to send as hard as you when I put them on? PS: algogogogo

[@Wilder2001]

❤ thanx a lot

[@HoopersBeta]

Welcome!

[@romanekov]

The acting is so amazing at the beginning of the video, I had to follow but also thanks for the great advices and the quality of the video

[@gratengelsker7614]

I have really stiff fingers. I also use mostly the drag position. Is that a corrolation?

[@HoopersBeta]

The drag position does utilize the FDP which can cause it to stiffen, which you would notice more when trying to extend your fingers.

[@LilStinkyRat]

My training partner witch is my dad may have fully torn his pulley today.

[@HoopersBeta]

Oof! Sorry to hear that :/

[@MiniBobaaa]

Thank you for this video! I recently felt a pop in my forearm a few days ago from climbing. I did the diagnostic tests in your video and it seems that I only feel mild-moderate pain (depending on how much pressure/weight put) in my forearm when I put weight on my ring finger. I also felt some of this pain with tests 2 and 4, but none with the other tests. Would this be considered a lumbrical injury if the pain is mostly felt in my forearm? Or are lumbrical injuries mostly felt in the hand? Thank you again!

[@ajhorton5941]

just happened to me tonigh :( so sad

[@seantierney7301]

Did you get any more information on this? I just got injured today and I have the same results and questions you do.

[@AnimalxRage]

i have exactly the same issue and was wondering the same. did you find anything out?

[@CoNieMaSobieRownych]

How are all of you? A few days since my injury. It mainly hurts when I apply pressure with my finger when pinky is bent. I feel the pain in my forearm. Talk to me guys!

[@brisket222]

My forearm also did a lil pop which heavily concerned me. Kinda funny how my ring finger is also the affected finger

[@tuxerp8185]

Could a shortened FDP also cause a faster occurence of pump because of the tighter muscle??

[@roffe8751]

I did a Captain of crush while having my wrist fully flexed and something just popped/slapped inside my wrist. My strength since has been less than 50% and doctors hasnt been able to tell what is wrong with me. Whenever I do wrist flexion with pressure on my fingers it hurts alot. I just want to know what is wrong with me. Maybe FDP is the problem. I am not a climber but an armwrestler. But training is sometimes very similar.

[@HoopersBeta]

Yeah there would be a lot of muscle overlap of the FDP in that position, but hard to say if it's just the FDP based on that information. Have you had any imaging or had a full evaluation with any sports specialists? Might give you more insight.

[@roffe8751]

@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah it is very hard to accurate pinpoint the pain even, because of all the overlaps. If you bother googling "wrist max", there is a tool where you do wrist flexion but the weight hits the fingers optimally because the positioning of the straps connected to the weight. If I would so something similar to this, my wrist joints would get super tense and something in the middle of the metacarpal joint district keeps popping and snapping. It only happends in my injured arm. I have been trying to rehab for years but I dont know what type of rehab to do. I have done both regular and magnetic scans but all they have been able to find is that I might have an enlonged and sharp ulnar bone that hurts the ligaments. While this might be true, I am not too sure it has anything to do with the snapping because it is in an entierly different location. I am willign to give surgery a chance (because it is a very minor one), but I am afraid it wont solve the main issue.

[@shaunwolfe2956]

Would you consider covering forearm splints? Pretty sure I’m experiencing a minor case, and you’ve helped me through the rest of my climbing issues. Really appreciate the channel

[@awesomesaucehamletkochian7312]

I have a question and it’s been bothering me for so long. I don’t experience pain when I do exercises that invoke symptoms rather, my forearm goes numb or weak Can anyone help me with this?

[@HoopersBeta]

Sounds like possibly a nerve issue? We have videos on nerve entrapment

[@awesomesaucehamletkochian7312]

@@HoopersBeta I watched the video, but… bad news i don’t think i have nerve entrapment haha. the symptoms listed were : numbness pain tingling ect In my case, i exclusively experience weakness and quick fatigue in my forearm. why did this injury occur? I injured my left ankle during a basketball game and I continued to shoot 300-500 shots a day, even though my ankle had been injured. The thing with basketball, is shooting involves using your entire body not just your arms, so to compensate the power that otherwise come from my ankles. I would use my arms and forearm more. I believe this is what caused the injury in my forearm. I am a very dedicated basketball player, and it sucks that I am unable to practice to my full desire because of this:( I am currently doing the rehab exercises listed in the video. Would you recommend me to stop playing basketball completely until my rehab is better?( worst case scenario for me atm)

[@lexinator111]

Damn that was everything. Thank you

[@HoopersBeta]

Our pleasure!

[@414iN]

Great rehab exercises and testing chart 👍 And the acting is top notch 😂 ! I had a question for you. You say that a risk of injury can be due to shortened muscle. But, in recent studies, it has been demonstrated that muscles don't shortened (the nervous receptors become less tolerant toward extension) and that there is no scientific proof between flexibility and risk of injury. So, did you mean shortened muscle in another way ? Hope I'm more or less clear.

[@Fixiefag]

Looks like my injury falls under the FDS category, is the rehab portion of this video still applicable?

[@osrictentaqclesmin]

Great video. Thank you. So no climbing for minimum 2 months? I’ve pain mostly in mid section of FDP muscle. Pain illicited on isolated flexion of middle finger D.I.P joint. One thing I did not ascertain from video is how long to rest prior to beginning stretching and loading rehab? 1-2 weeks? Thank you again. .

[@coffca]

How did it go for you? Did yo wait 2 months to climb again?

[@maximedelmas]

If only I found this video earlier in my rehab...

[@rexxu5492]

Thank you so much. This helps me so much I had no idea what it was before your video !

[@taylor.douthit]

With regards to the severity tests, specifically Test 4: Resisted DIP Flexion, can the location of discomfort/pain be at the musculotendinous junction? I meet all criteria for a grade 1 strain, however, my location of discomfort/pain is at the muscle/tendon junction.

[@HoopersBeta]

Yes, that's certainly possible!

[@MattSeth]

Thanks a lot for this info, Doc! Looks like I have a lumbrical tear/strain. I appreciate your rehab advice and now subbed :)

[@die_hertz]

I fell from a climb today, and have immediately noticed mild tingling sensation in left FDP/FDS muscle belly, after a few minutes small bruising have occurred. Will try doing the tests and differential diagnosis tomorrow, a bit scared to poke it so soon after getting injured :)

[@HoopersBeta]

Yeah it can take a couple of days to get more accurate results if you are in the acute inflammation phase. Sorry to hear of the injury though! Hoping that you recover well!

[@Orintaz]

Hey! Following the video and the assessment, it seems I have an FDS strain. Would this recovery program still work?

[@HoopersBeta]

Many of the principles discussed can apply to an FDS strain, yes. But there will be subtle differences. We still need to put that video out :)

[@raymondjiang3978]

I wanted a video like this for 7 years now

[@markhooks3377]

This couldn’t have come out at a better time, I literarily just felt some pops in my forearm while climbing a pocket hold and now it hurts a lot.

[@HoopersBeta]

Oh dang! Sorry to hear that. If the injury was suffered while in a pocket I would also recommend checking out our video on the lumbricals!

[@markhooks3377]

@@HoopersBeta thanks so much! ill definitely check it out!

[@mattsmitt00]

Hey @markhooks3377 I literally just came home after hearing a pop in my forearm while pulling hard on a 3 finger pocket. Curious how bad your pain/injury was and how the rehab ended up going for you?

[@darrinveloso8918]

@@mattsmitt00i was wondering if you had any updates on your recovery the same thing happened to me last night lol

[@mattsmitt00]

@@darrinveloso8918 Hey there! yeah I'd be glad to share my experience. I've been fully recovered for a couple months now with no issues. The first week it hurt to pull on things like the car door, especially if I only used three fingers. after about the first week it only hurt when I pulled on pockets or drags at all. I did regular daily tendon glides/stretches to keep my fingers from feeling too stiff, did very light weight pulls on the finger board (not letting pain get worse than a 2/10), and did finger rolls with a dumbbell. That was enough for me to feel good enough to start climbing carefully again after a couple weeks, but my biggest mistake was not being careful enough doing moves to pockets or any holds where my pinky could slip off. I re-injured my FDP twice, both a week apart where I landed on a hold with just three fingers and had a slight pop again in my forearm. But, even with my two re-injuries I felt like I was back at least 90% after four weeks. 100% after about 6 weeks. I think just light working your fingers and forearm is the most important thing. One tip I got from another climber was to tape your injured finger to the neighboring fingers (in my case my ring finger to my pinky) to reduce the chance of slipping and putting too much isolated force on the injury. All in all, not a bad injury to get at all compared to some of the other common climber issues like pulley ruptures!

[@FancyWafflesFTW]

Can y’all make a super sweet video on rehabbing an FDS strain too? Pretty sure I just got one of those :/

[@HoopersBeta]

Yes, although it might take a while :( we've got several other videos in the works right now

[@Crumbledluna]

😘

[@laure-loutremblay1492]

Injuries footages were hilarious 😁

[@ErnestoJimenezOficial]

I have forearm pain when I do bench pressing. I can even do the bar by itself without feeling pain.

[@HoopersBeta]

Oh shoot that's no fun! I hope you recover well!

[@imOverWhere]

Is numbness a common symptom of FDP?

[@HoopersBeta]

It can be associated with that because the FDP muscle lays directly under the Ulnar and Median nerve. So if you have a confirmed FDP injury, you may also have swelling of the muscle body which can increase pressure on the nerve and cause swelling. But, you should also evaluate if it's not actually an FDP injury and if it is rather an issue with the median and ulnar nerve (both which can also cause a dull ache sensation).

[@tylervelasquez5639]

Hi, my name is Tyler and I like slappin' them slopers and I approve this message lol! Great video

[@HoopersBeta]

Hah! Good! Glad some people out there love the slopers :)

[@kavali6320]

I really tried not to laugh... but the acting parts are just so good 🤣. Big 👍for all the informations and explanations you put in this video!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it (and hopefully learned!)

[@moomy4604]

um. what does it mean when i can’t do pretty much any of the tests? (fds and other tests) i’m v worried

[@HoopersBeta]

Should probably have it evaluated by your physician or a professional specializing in climbing (or general hand) injuries :)

[@ciso344]

So much value in this video it's insane that we get to watch it for free! TYSM!

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the kind words.

[@czatax]

Very informative, thank you for your work. Can you make episode for PIP injuries? e.g. I'm struggling with pain of PIP joint when pushing or rubbing side of a finger, never had that kind of injury before. No pain when hanging with full weight.

[@czatax]

@Michael Duke I made USG of my fingers and reason of this pain is gathered fluid which is moving when doing certain movements cousing pain. Fluid gathering is caused by overtraining, some bad movement could cause shock. This is my case and your can be different, anyway I'm sharing this information which can help you.

[@czatax]

@Michael Duke Lower intensity trainings, icing after training and additionaly anti inflammatory pills ( I don't reccomend to use them without consultation tho ) for 10 days. Also I'm doing some finger massage but It is not prescribed treatment

[@omshanti512]

Does all the test is to be taken instantly after the event .. Or after 1 days or what? I was hammering in a engineer working... I feel a stiff and tighness in my fingers... But i stil could use my fingers.. And after one day i could feel a pain near forearm musvle and was not to perform a grip with the my finger.... Please explain... What to do??

[@HoopersBeta]

The more acute the injury/pain is the more cautious you want to be with your tests. Give it a day or so to calm down and then assess. You can also re-assess a few days or even a week+ after to see how you are progressing.

[@omshanti512]

Thank u

[@cinerati0n]

Sorry, I only dunk pockets

[@HoopersBeta]

😎

[@ailenei88]

Great video, thank you!

[@yehielshaham5098]

How likley is to strain both the FDP and the pulley at the same time?

[@HoopersBeta]

Can't say a specific percentage but it certainly is possible! Sorry if that's what you're currently experiencing :/