Add A Shelf To Your Model Railroad (152)

[@jhoodfysh]

This is a very good idea. I will do this a I work on my layout. Thanks Larry.

[@jolliemark6294]

What a great idea, as it will keep everything OFF the layout, many time everything ends up on the scenery....glad people are getting on board of putting a shelf on the layout too....thanks Jack 👍👍👍

[@nickbishop6784]

Great idea Larry

[@ETA555]

Thanks for the advice 👍

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing. Like the shelf, it also adds a bit of comfort knowing a power unit won't hit the floor.

[@mannyfernandez2921]

Nice video Larry!

[@peterjhillier7659]

Again another really great Video Larry, looking forward to more work on your own Layout the P&S. Judging by your Output bet you don’t have much spare Time.

[@mikegall5511]

I need to do this before I start my scenery. Thanks Larry

[@garylewis3815]

Hi Larry another great tutorial video. The shelf is a great addition to the modules your buildng and gives me an idea for my small portable layout..!!! For portability I reckon coach bolts and wing nuts instead of screws into the legs.? Also looking forward to watching your videos on Piemonte Southern progress and operation..😀

[@TheDCCGuy]

Me too!

[@garylewis3815]

Hi Larry thanks for the reply. I might be jumping the gun....but are you going to incorporate a lighting rig to illuminate the modules ?

[@NicholassTrainChannel]

good video very clear instructions on how to install a shelf need to do something like that on my layout.

[@dkaustin98]

Larry, I bought your recent DCC book. A lot of great reference material. May I suggest a second volume or companion that has projects other than DCC installations in locomotives? A volume about what else we can do with DCC on our layouts. I like this shelf idea. I wonder if I can make it a folding shelf. Up and out of the way when the layout is not in use. But, I have those fascia mount throttle pockets and cup holders. Maybe mount those to the underside of the shelf, so they can be used when running the layout and the shelf folded down during construction... Hmmm, I wonder if that would work. I’ii have to experiment.

[@NewTestamentDoc]

I would use enameled outdoor or deck screws or stainless screws instead of the drywall screws I think you used. They can rust easily. Even sweating drink cans used only one can start the rusting as can a sweaty hand on it!

[@TheDCCGuy]

I used those for the main installation but used these for the shelf. I have used a lot of drywall screws on my main layout and it is still standing after 7 years. As a group model railroaders tend to overbuild in my opinion.

[@francis1247]

nice one

[@Hornhausen]

Amazing.

[@MRR_Shadowolf]

Very interesting video. If using L metal brackets on the wall vs typical benchwork, how would you recommend attaching a shelf? Plan on using 2 inch foam and 1/4" sub ply for switch machines, wiring, etc. Will have (or planning to) have 1x2" supports across the front and back to provide room for wiring and attaching fascia. I like the idea of a shelf but not sure can be done the way I am constructing my around the room layout. Thoughts?

[@TheDCCGuy]

I used 2” foam in a previous layout and not again. It is too thick and creates extra work to get switch machines to operate correctly. Plus it makes a very thick shelf and if elevated requires a very thick fascia to hide the switch machines, wiring, lights, etc. I went with 1/2” plywood and 1/2” foam and simply screw the plywood to the shelf brackets. Lowes sells very wide brackets and my upper deck is up to 18” wide. I use a 1x2” along the front edge for added rigidity and as a place to mount a hardboard fascia.

[@MRR_Shadowolf]

@@TheDCCGuy Intriguing and had not thought of that aspect. Crap, now I have a bunch of 2" foam, guess can reuse for hills/mountains/etc. Very insightful and glad I asked the question. You channel is excellent! Just got your three books on electrical/dcc etc. Looking forward to reading them and gaining more knowledge. Thanks again for all you do for the hobby and those of us novices!

[@TheDCCGuy]

Give me an email address and I’ll send some photos of the upper level shelves. My main level is built exactly like the module construction.

[@johneveritt3976]

Howzit Larry : I think it is a JOLLY GOOD / BETTER-ER idea to introduce the Monday DCC / Friday Module Viddy-Split. Like myself; I am certain that there are others who have missed your most informative DCC presentations. As a matter of interest; apart from the hands-on construction techniques aspect of your British-Practice modules; what will ultimately become of the completed modules ... ?

[@TheDCCGuy]

I plan to keep them in the main operating aisle of the Piedmont Southern for when I just want to run a few trains and do some shunting. I have amassed a big collection of GWR locos and rolling stock and this gives me a place to run them instead of cluttering up my Piedmont Southern HO layout. Of course my King class 4-6-0 will still pull an occasional excursion on the big layout.

[@bruceboyer8187]

Shelves matter😊

[@georgehorne394]

There are two modules and at the start of video 143 there is track running between the 2 modules but I didn't see where you discuss whether the track between the 2 modules is continuous or is cut to allow the modules to be separated. If it is cut, how do you ensure continuity when taken apart and then re joined? Thanks

[@TheDCCGuy]

The DCC power bus continues under both modules and there are track feeders on both modules. I use the Anderson Power Pole connectors that I showed in the power bus video to disconnect and reconnect it when I separate the modules.

[@georgehorne394]

@@TheDCCGuy I was interested in the track: did you cut it where the modules join?

[@TheDCCGuy]

Yes, I laid the track with the modules tightly fit together and after the adhesive set I cut through the rails. This means that as long as the alignment dowels do their job there will be a perfect match at the rails. I also have something in the mail to me from Wales that is designed to create an even better alignment. I don’t want to say more and spoil the surprise.

[@georgehorne394]

@@TheDCCGuy thanks for the videos!!.... the challenge is to see how well the trains fare when they try to cross the join when things are put back together

[@the4000class]

I really like this idea! I’m going to use it on my layout ! Btw you have quite a few Walthers kits. Are they for the Piedmont Southern and Will you be making videos as you assemble them?

[@TheDCCGuy]

A lot of those are passenger cars. However I also have a short stack of through plate girder bridges that I misordered-wrong stock number and there was a large restocking fee so I figured I’d sell them myself. As for the structures those are just the tip of the iceberg. I’ve been buying them for 25 years and ended up with way more than I will need. So I need to get a table at the next train show or put them eBay. To answer your question, I will do some videos on construction though as I progress.

[@hansfriess]

What is the name of your eBay page?

[@mr.e1944]

I would skip using the brads for the front trim. Just use liquid nails to attach it. The surface won’t be marked and you won’t have to do any wood filler. That stuff never matches anyways!

[@farmerdave7965]

I like the idea of a shelf but must be removable since my modules take a beating being transported to train shows. I do have a removable 1/4 inch plywood shelf that rests on wooden support rails attached to my module legs.

[@TheDCCGuy]

Yes, I can see where i some cases a quick release mechanism might be desirable. With the MR project layouts David Popp always designs them so they can fit in a van and elevator for travel to shows. some of the mountain tops are removable and fiddle yards either come off or are hinged to drop down. There’s always a way.

[@jeremywhite3051]

You could try m4 or m6 bolts and wing nuts rather than screws if you want the cross braces removable!?

[@stewartclark1847]

I think you need a bigger hammer. Enjoy your videos. Hello from Down Under.

[@TheDCCGuy]

I had to shoot that footage twice-first time with an air powered brad nailer, but the sound crapped out on it so I had to reshoot. I didn’t feel like cranking up the air compressor again so I just grabbed the old tack hammer-not the best choice but it worked.

[@allenbarnes7202]

I have one on the front of my layout

[@TheDCCGuy]

Excellent!