Adjusting the Chain Freeplay

[@ethanfiess2961]

Watch this a couple times a year Papa Steve. Life saver

[@papastevesgarage]

You've warmed my heart. Thank so much.

[@marvlb]

You don’t need a crow foot for the 17mm adjuster nut for the torque wrench. Your turning the adjuster bolt 90 degrees, when you tighten the adjuster hex nut holding it in position with the 5mm Allen wrench, torquing it with the torque wrench may at most more it one tenth of a degree. Very minor after turning it 90 degrees. Very good video and useful information.

[@papastevesgarage]

My lock nut tends to move the adjuster more than I like. Thanks for watching. I appreciate your feedback.

[@albertsanchez8007]

Very useful and concise video thank you. As it happens a 1/4 turn equates to a quarter inch of slack reduction on my 1100 DCT, which is exactly how much I needed to adjust, so it worked out perfectly.

[@papastevesgarage]

Glad it helped

[@RollWithSoul317]

Thank you so much for your clear and concise instructional videos. I find your videos to be informative and helpful in maintaining my 2022 Honda Rebel 1100 DCT. As a new subscriber, I am spending a lot of time trying to get caught up on all of your videos and it’s been a pleasure doing so! Outstanding work Steve, and please keep the videos coming! 🏍️💨 👍🏾

[@papastevesgarage]

Thanks for the feedback. I like doing them.

[@Dave1567]

Good job Steve perfect tutorial

[@papastevesgarage]

Thanks for the encouragement. Take care.

[@kevinpeters9824]

Very organized and helpful tips on adjusting the Chain tension. Thanks

[@papastevesgarage]

Glad it was helpful!

[@wander1899]

Thank you Steve for the excellent overview. Looking forward to cleaning too! ;-) I'm off to HF for a very large socket & and a few other goodies.

[@papastevesgarage]

Glad to help

[@jeffharper410]

Your pulling up on that torque wrench on the chain adjuster nut. That was the hardest 15ftpds. I ever saw. Sumtigwong there.

[@papastevesgarage]

I’m not going to win any weightlifting medals.

[@jeffharper410]

@@papastevesgarage I understand, I'm closer to 57 than 56 myself. But I find sometimes click style torque wrenches can be way off ,depending on direction and where they are held ect... The fact you are useing a crows foot already adds a few pounds because the wrench is calibrated from the center of the handle to the center of the anvil , the crows foot extends out just enough to add some extra torque. Next time try an old school beam style , they are less prone to being out of calibration and give the same reading equally in both directions. A good digital torque adapter is with in 2% both directions. The Quinn at Harbor Freight has proved its self better than my old Proto torque wrench , sometimes just a short drop will mess up the calibration or leaving any tention on the spring . Always return to 0 or the lowest setting before putting them away. I found one day my trusty old Proto was way ,way off. Anyway I loved the video.

[@papastevesgarage]

@@jeffharper410 I’m 74.

[@jeffharper410]

@@papastevesgarage Wow! Enjoy your rides, your Awesome! God Bless!

[@bennytuomolin4416]

Thanks Steve!

[@henrytoler5023]

Wish you were still doing videos. Most videos on chain adjustment they have the Rebel on stands . Keep getting greasy . Ride Safe.

[@papastevesgarage]

That's very kind of you, Henry. Your wish is my command. I haven't made a new video since last office because a college near here in Oakland offered me a part-time teaching position at the beginning of the fall semester, then again this spring. Preparing for classes ate up all my video production time. Those teaching contracts have now ended, so I'm getting back to making Papa Steve's Rebel 1100 Garage and Cruisin' with Papa Steve videos. I'm working on a review of the Corbin Gunslinger aftermarket saddle. It'll be done by the end of next week. Then I'll be following that with videos about installing the T-rex Racing center stand and Baione crash guards. I'm also due for an oil change, so soon I'll produce a video about changing the Rebel 1100 DCT oil and filters. I use a floor jack and Harbor Freight motorcycle wheel chock to lift the rear tire, partly because I didn't like the way rear wheel stands I tried fit the Rebel 1100 and partly because I already had the floor jack. After I install the center stand, I'll be using that when I need to lift the rear tire off the ground. Keep watching and I'll keep making videos.

[@henrytoler5023]

@Papa Steve's Rebel 1100 Garage Glad to hear you will be posting more videos. Yours get straight to the subject without all the bla bla bla many other content creators have in their videos. Instead of going with an aftermarket seat from a manufacturer I tookmy stock seat to a local upholstery shop and had it custom redone with a gel pad Insert . Only cost mt $200.00 and the seat I bought a 2nd one only cost me $60.00. I am happy with how it come out . Will be watching for your new videos . Thank you for posting content.

[@papastevesgarage]

Keep cruisin'

[@robbcraig8146]

Thanks but no mention of wheel alignment? How should this be checked?

[@papastevesgarage]

If you are careful to move the adjusters on each side of the wheel by the same amount, you shouldn't affect the adjustment enough to make a difference. I'm planning a video about alignment, but I won't be able to make it very soon. Here are two tools you can use to check your rear wheel alignment: - Motion Pro Alignment Tool 08-0048 - Profi Products Motorcycle Wheel Alignment Tool ART.NR: CAT-D)T-Magnet The Motion Pro is cheep and easy to use, but you have to rely on visually checking that the 6" reference bar is parallel to the chain. That leaves more possibility for error than I like. The Profi device uses a laser that you can point along the length of the chain from the back sprocket to the front sprocket. I think that is much more accurate. The Profi is pricey, though. More than $130 from Amazon. I bought it directly from the German company for about half that. I am much more satisfied with the Profi. KZbin has videos about both of these products.

[@jamescampolo7824]

I have over 4,000 miles on my 1100 DCT and the chain is still well within spec. I lube it about every 500 to 1000 miles. The sprocket teeth are no where near curling. I hit 90mph now and then. Am I too easy on the thing, or is everyone maintenance freaks? I watch these videos to try to learn something. Learned about setting the shocks but that's about it. BTW, I have 110,000 miles on my 1997 Valkyrie in 24 years. Runs like new. I guess my secret is "don't wash it". It's like asking a 94 year old "what's your secret?", wisky and cigars. lol (none will tell you clean living)

[@papastevesgarage]

Thanks for checking in, James. Preventive maintenance seems to work.

[@jamescampolo7824]

@@papastevesgarage Steve, do you do requests. You might want to do a short video on connecting up a car OBDII to the 1100. The shop manual (official Honda) is useless.The shop manual shows it under the seat, maybe under the battery cover. I finally found the 6 pin Honda connector behind the left side cover. I saw one video on this and it didn't say if it was a four or six pin connector. Both are available. The 1100 uses the six. The shop manual has the pinout but it is very hard to find if you try to follow the manual. I found the right 6 pin one on eBay for about $10. Amazon also has them. Also, the shop manual shows the 6 pin side as A-F. Every 6 pin to 16 pin for sale is numerical, 1-6. Now, are these numbered like a v-6, all odd numbers on one side and the even ones on the other side? The pins could also be numbered in a circle. A-C down one side and D-F up the other side. I ask these questions rhetorically but Honda insists on making this a puzzle. I bet there are "real" maintence manuals for Dealers and/or TSBs for many issues we are not privy to.

[@papastevesgarage]

I'm intrigued. Thanks for the suggestion. Which scanner do you use? Which would you recommend? How did you know you bought the adapter with the correct wiring configuration?

[@jamescampolo7824]

@@papastevesgarage There are many OBDII devices on the market. Some are a dedicated device and that's all they do. Others are a bluetooth device that you plug into the OBDIIconnector and pair with your phone. My preferred app is Dash Command. It reads and resets codes and has live dashboards for tons of readings from speed to rpm to fuel consumption. The 6 to 16 pin adapter ad on Amazon or eBay will have pinouts. I have found they are all the same, 6 pin for Honda and match the pinout that is in the shop manual on page 4-7 PGM-FI SYSTEM.

[@jamescampolo7824]

I now have over 6000 and the chain still only has about 1" play when the bikes weight is on it. Note: If you adjust the chain with the wheel off the ground, when you put it down and put some weight on it, it will tighten up due to the geometry change of the swing arm.

[@carloscuadras6242]

When I tighten the locknuts my chain tension gets tighter. I measure to 20mm and when I tighten I'm at 15mm. I make sure not to let the Allen key move when I tighten the locknuts but I still loose 5mm.

[@papastevesgarage]

You're right. If you are holding the Allen key stationary, the chain shouldn't tighten up when you snug down the lock nut. My guess is that you're letting the Allen key move without realizing it. Try again. If you have the same problem, set the chain tension to 25mm then tighten the adjuster down. As long as your chain free play is within Honda tolerances, you're ok.

[@youmasenchi]

I am a bit puzzeld, aren't we supposed to lift the rear wheel from the ground while tightening the chain?

[@papastevesgarage]

Thanks for your question. The Honda Owner's Manual specifies that chain slack should be measured with the motorcycle on the side stand on a flat level surface.

[@ianburns6218]

@@papastevesgarage Brilliant! Good to know, thank you

[@Levergunner88]

Why are you going both up and down using the slack checker tool? I have one of those tools, and I’ve always just checked my slack by establishing my zero point, and pulling down on the tool to show the slack of the chain. Just curious if I’ve been doing it wrong?

[@papastevesgarage]

Thanks for your question, BRR. How are you establishing your zero point? I push the chain up with the "SlackSetter" bar, then slide the black index tube down to meet the "SlackSetter" bar to set the zero point. Then I pull the "SlackSetter" bar down until the chain stops in order to measure the total chain free play. The way you set your zero point may be correct, but I don't have enough information from your comment to tell. I pasted the instructions for measuring chain tension from MotionPro below. For a more visual instruction, watch the Partzilla video about how to use the SlackSetter in my maintenance video playlist. Also, here is the link to it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2OQi2WNeLWdrpI Motion Pro SlackSetter Pro™ P/N 08-0674 Instructions Thank you for purchasing this unique Motion Pro tool. The SlackSetter Pro™ will allow you to make precise adjustments to the chain on your motorcycle, to maximize performance, suspension function and the life span of the chain. Refer to your owner’s manual for the chain slack measurement specific to your motorcycle. The SlackSetter Pro™ provides a convenient method for checking chain slack up to 75mm or an absolute measurement up to 80mm. Consult your owner's manual to identify the proper type of measurement that you should perform on your motorcycle. Consult your owner’s manual for the specific location on the swing arm from which to measure chain slack. Setup The Slacksetter Pro™ ruler has clearly labeled scales in millimeters for both slack and absolute measurements. Make sure that you are referencing the correct scale for the measurement type that is required for your motorcycle. By loosening the hex screw at the bottom of the tool, you can orient either scale to the best position for viewing. Retighten the screw when complete. Slack Measurement Chain slack is measured by pulling up or down on the chain for your first reference point, then pulling the opposite direction to get the complete slack distance. Some vehicles are measured from the top of the swingarm, some from the bottom. Your owner's manual will have this information. This instruction will measure from the bottom of the swingarm, but the process is the same for the top, just reversed. With the scale properly oriented for slack measurement, place the top of the tool against the bottom/underside of the swingarm, and place the extension fork of the slide arm over the center of one of the links on your chain. Push up on the slide, and when the chain is under tension, push the indicator tube down over the black ruler shaft until it touches the slide. Now pull the slide down to tension the chain in the opposite direction while keeping Indicator Tube the tool against the bottom of the swingarm. While holding the tool in this position, you can read the total slack distance on the ruler shaft .This is the current slack of your chain. Loosen the rear axle and make adjustments with the adjusters on your swingarm if necessary and repeat the measurement until the chain has the correct amount of slack. Tighten the axle and the adjusters, and double check the slack measurement one more time.

[@Levergunner88]

@@papastevesgarage ahh, I may have been doing it wrong. I set the tool underneath the swing arm, then I place the chain into the slacksetter, and slide the tube down to establish zero. Then from there I only was going down until tension. I haven’t been going up to tension, and then down to get the total slack measurement. Thank you.

[@papastevesgarage]

You're probably been running with too little chain tension. 15mm to 25mm isn't very much slack. Were the instructions and video helpful?

[@Levergunner88]

@@papastevesgarage Yes, it was helpful. Thank you! I should’ve done more research. I checked my chain slack, and my total slack was around 45mm. Time for a good adjustment now!

[@factualreflection8952]

***Need some help, 2021 Manual when I loosen the 17mm the whole assembly wants to come out***what at I missing?😊

[@papastevesgarage]

The 17 mm is a locking nut. Use a screwdriver to hold the adjusting screw stationary while you loosen the 17 mm. Then loosen the 17 mm just enough so you can turn the adjusting screw when you’re done tighten down the 17 mm.

[@factualreflection8952]

@Papa Steve's Rebel 1100 Garage thank you took quite a bit to break the 17mm while holding the Alan stationary, but it finally gave. Got her all done up, and all is well. Excellent video. Thank you!

[@efremendez]

So you don't need to loosen tire from both sides? Have I been doing this wrong on all my past ninjas 400 and 650s?

[@papastevesgarage]

I don't know about the Ninjas. On the Rebel 1100, loosening the axel nut on one side takes care of the other.

[@MarcGarcia-y4m]

@MarcGarcia-y4m 12 seconds ago I think I did this right. Chain measured within spec. But right afterwards my ABS light came on, stayed on and then started blinking/flashing :( Anyone have any troubleshooting advice? The whole point of trying to DIY it was not to pay a shop to adjust the chain and now I might still have to go into one.

[@papastevesgarage]

I don't have any good suggestions for you. Adjusting the chain is not related to the automatic braking system. I've never had an issue with ABS

[@jamesbronson3347]

Shouldn't the bike be upright with the rear wheel off the ground? I'm not sure, just asking. Your videos are great!

[@papastevesgarage]

Not at all. The appropriate meth0d depends on how the engineers defined the chain tension. The Rebel 1100 manual calls for the bike to be on its stand on level ground to get an accurate tension reading.

[@dan239]

Look at the bike from the rear. On my rebel 1100 CMX the bike rear tire looks off-center by a quarter almost an inch. Does anyone else have this problem?

[@papastevesgarage]

I've never checked, but if the bike tracks like it should and you're not getting unusual tire wear, I don't think I would worry about it.

[@T4JQ3L]

Does it matter if you measure the slack with the bike in gear or neutral?

[@papastevesgarage]

Excellent question. I'm most familiar with the DCT, so it's not an issue for me. I would adjust a bike with a manual transmission with the gearbox in neutral. You're measuring free play, so you want the chain to be able to pull tight across the top of the sprockets when you raise and lower it from the bottom. If your rear wheel is on the ground, the only way for the chain to pull tight across the top of the sprockets is for the transmission sprocket to be able to spin.

[@T4JQ3L]

@@papastevesgarage thanks, that's what I was thinking. It seems that when it's in gear, the chain is a little tighter. . Guess it's Best to measure it both in gear and in neutral as I am adjusting with the wheels on tierra firma. Thanks again.

[@Levergunner88]

How miles did you get out of the stock chain before having to adjust it?

[@papastevesgarage]

I’ve adjusted it three times in 8000 miles.

[@Levergunner88]

@@papastevesgarage Okay. I’m about to do my first adjustment at 1400mi. I have put the machine to the test, and I haven’t been forgiving on the throttle at all, so I can believe it’s time already lol. Thanks for the reply!

[@brianshockley6429]

Subbed

[@papastevesgarage]

Welcome to the channel

[@GabrielMartinez-vz2bu]

I have a chain noise on my rebel 1100 and I lubricate but continue

[@papastevesgarage]

Check the chain free play. If that's within tolerance, check the rear wheel alignment. If both those are ok, have your dealer service check out the noise.

[@titisteyr3538]

Désolé mais la tension d'une chaine de moto se fait d'aprés le poids du pilote ...la flèche indiquée par le constructeur n'est souvent pas valable !!

[@papastevesgarage]

Titi wrote: "Sorry but the tension of a motorcycle chain is made according to the weight of the pilot ... the arrow indicated by the manufacturer is often not valid !!" Hi Titi, I'm curious why you think the chain tension is related to rider weight. Please explain your thinking. Chain tension is an engineering requirement. Too much tension causes chain and sprocket wear to increase. Too little tension and the chain could fly off the sprocket. Honda recommends 15 mm to 25 mm free play, but doesn't mention rider weight as a factor. I understand that a heavy rider puts more stress on the drive train than a light rider, but I don't see how to calibrate chain tension accordingly. Does a 200-pound rider need less or more chain tension than a 350 pound rider? Why? As long as the free play falls between 15 mm to 25 mm the chain and sprockets should be fine.