"AFS off" repair, Lexus, Toyota, Prius

This video shows a common and fairly typical fault that leads to an “AFS off” warning on the dash of a 2008 Lexus 400h. Details of the repair are shown, and comparison is made to the approach taken at OEM dealerships. The AFS system was designed to provide adaptive front headlight illumination that will respond to differences in vehicle ride height and turning. When the AFS system is disabled for some reason, it reverts to a baseline safe headlight aim and the PCM sends a signal to the dash to flash the AFS off warning.
This is an amateur effort, with no guarantees as to accuracy or safety. Do not proceed with any repair of your vehicle if you are not prepared to accept all risks.

[@the_gold_canopy]

Thank you. Finally a Lexus owner that gets straight to the point, model specific.

[@Zabarotropitili]

Hi! I live in mountainous Kyrgyzstan and recently after a trip to skiing i got my "AFS off" on. My mechanic and I noticed the same issue as in the video- this tiny rod broke in half. The reason is the same - the lower ball joint is not moving. So I suggested my mechanic to weld this breakage place but he said it is not possible. however, after this great video I made sure this is possible!

[@davidcrdz1966]

Just recently bought a 2005 Lexus RX 330. The "AFS" light is on and the "VCS Trac Off" Your video was a huge help for me getting started on troubleshooting these two issues. I'm in the process of fixing the EVAP P0441 issues...haha She is definitely worth the TLC

[@skunksmirch7185]

Finally, among thousands of empty videos, I found one which clear, to the point and helpful. THANK YOU! Brilliant! watching other BS I have NEVER found even close so helpful video. Internet is on 99% BS, crap. Thank gosh there is still 1% of solid information.

[@bolafson]

Thanks for the great video. I fixed mine. Turns out it is very easy to access by taking off the passenger side rear wheel. I found the link part on Amazon for $50 USD. Took me about 1/2 hour to install. My electronic sensor part was still working. RX350 2007

[@fletcher4429]

Terrific video Dave. Thanks. But not having welding equipment & being lazy, I just put a 2” long copper pipe sleeve (5/8” OD) over the broken ends. Gravity holds in place but I filled the sleeve with liquid gasket. Considered epoxy but thought maybe too much flex required. Didn’t need to remove anything. Works great for now. We’ll see what happens over time.

[@ericmac564]

I was pleasantly surprised to see you fire up a tig torch. Well done sir. I’ll be copying you tomorrow. Thanks for the video.

[@photon440]

Thanks for the useful information. Mine was broken just like yours, and I welded it back up, freed the frozen ball and packed with grease. It fixed the problem! I did the repair after seeing this video last August and it's still working well. Ours was a 2006 RX400H.

[@ivanvgrebenyuk]

Great video! Thank you very much Dave! I bought this link from ebay for $20. One thing to add: you will need E14 socket to remove the nut

[@ArpusTT]

great video. editing was perfect, very informative presentation. was also pleasant to watch. dealing with the afs off light on my GS at the moment. was nice to learn more about the system and possible fixes. keep making videos.

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks for watching, they were a fun set to make. The Lexus wasn't a great vehicle for my habit of video auto repairs because nothing much happened to it, until the end. Last month my wife fell asleep while driving and drove through a barrier and off an embankment, destroying the car. Fortunately the Lexus did it's job to the end, saving her from any serious injury by crumpling around her. Although expensive, it was a carefully engineered, great car that we'll miss.

[@xLouisJohnson]

@@spelunkerd great to know that the car safety systems did their job!

[@Itolume]

Thank you for sharing this with us, Good job!!!!

[@melloslife8861]

Thank you to share with us, good job friend!

[@MrImarcus]

Make do and mend, love it!! Excellent vid sir. Thank you. Liked and subscribed.

[@KillerKev1961]

Outstanding simple fix!

[@Don.Challenger]

Dave very good piece of work shown here.

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks!

[@jeffwilliam5525]

Great Video! Helped replace the sensors on my 07 RX350. I found a aftermarket assembly on ebay for 50USD. Seems to be working.

[@patoconnor6089]

Thank you. Very useful information!

[@SergeyKlyushin]

Great video that solved my issue! Thank you!

[@julianyoule-white7675]

Excellent video and one of the few that shows you how to repair the sender and not just disable. Thank you. $750!! What's the world coming to....

[@spelunkerd]

You may find a local junk yard with the correct part. Where I live, those are scarce. Thanks for stopping by!

[@nando1800]

Brilliant video, thank you. Greetings from Sweden .

[@dhorsler]

excellent video, just popped out to check and lo and behold, snapped off link same as yours, that explains the sudden AFS light flashing that happened yesterday, thank you, saved me a lot of faffing, now i can just weld it back together ....

[@spelunkerd]

Yes, I'm sorry, I know most can't do that. This is a common enough problem in the rust belt that I wonder if dealers have found an alternate source for the arm by itself. One guy in this thread found a European car part that looks very similar. Others suggested home made solutions like stiff wire, junk yard parts, etc. The length is critical so you won't need to do reprogramming. If you find a solution, please stop by and let us know.

[@dhorsler]

@@spelunkerd its cold and wet outside in the UK today so will wait until it dries up lol, i do have a welder but might be tempted to try and find a suitable left/right handed thread if i can work out what size thread it is :-)

[@spelunkerd]

No problem, thanks for the followup.

[@mkgm001]

Thank you, this was very helpful its what I have been looking for

[@Supernaut2000]

Good job sir! This is perfect! Now I have a "Honey do" added to my list!

[@TexasPLNR]

Nice repair and video!

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks, man.

[@quentinikuta9422]

Thank you for this video!!

[@TroySuave]

That was very helpful. Thanks

[@hillclimber51]

Excellent Video this helped me out. Thanks

[@jonfarr8758]

Excellent video

[@nickwilson1476]

great video, as always

[@spelunkerd]

Thank you, Nick. Dave

[@xLouisJohnson]

great video, hoping this will help with my RX450h AFS warning light

[@syedafzal5175]

Great video

[@tomdumay3885]

Excellent video. Perfect narration. Have this issue going on, and will be crawling under the car tomorrow. For $700, I'd be getting my welder out too!

[@skunksmirch7185]

What? "Have this issue going on". So you wish the guy to brake his car and making videos for you? Am I wrong?

[@koudadinouarnauk6101]

Thank a lot fort your vid. It is verry good.

[@jinblade]

Thank you for the vid

[@v4vauxhall498]

good repair thanks for the video

[@olumideilara9377]

This video really helped me to understand the problem with my RX400H. It suddenly started shaking and the AFS OFF started flashing. I went to check the right rear tire side as you have suggested and I discovered a broken pipe. Now I need to know if all I need to do is get a machinist to weld the pipe.

[@spelunkerd]

It's an easy repair, if your problem is the same as mine. I believe you want to be sure your end length is identical to what it was before, since you may need to recalibrate the sensor if the length changes after the repair. The critical problem was seizure of that ball and socket joint, with extra strain on the shaft because it wouldn't move. In that case glue won't likely work since it can't withstand the torsional strain, welding is a much better option. Alternatively if you live close to a junk yard, they may be able to find the part you need without need for welding. Good luck!

[@anthony5816]

Great job!! Very helpful!!

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks!

[@peterlofquist7193]

Thanks for this video !.. helped me a lot ! // Peter

[@timjohn7483]

Thank you very much was very useful

[@shoaibanwer2534]

Good sir thanks

[@allentshoko5623]

It was good and educational too

[@johnmosha8285]

thanks brother

[@PBRF77]

very useful thank you. Friend of mine has had this go once before and paid £170 for a new sensor. Watching this it proves worth removing the arm first to make sure its moving freely.

[@spelunkerd]

Thank you for watching. One viewer posted a link in this thread to a "Mercedes SLS leveling adjusting valve linkage arm" that looks exactly like the arm I was trying to find. The used part was for sale for about $40. Presumably the arm is made separately, perhaps even by a secondary manufacturer. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find a retail source. If somebody does find a source, I'm hoping they'll stop back and post the link here. Junk yards should be a good resource if you have one close by.

[@PBRF77]

www.rapidonline.com/Mechanical-Fastenings-Fixings/Swivel-Head-Ball-Joint-M5-Steel-523780?LexusOwnersClubUK&ForumLinks&AffWin&Affiliate&awc=1799_1493990128_2e8c0f644f125b06005c62aa5b771373 Found the swivel head here. Might be useful for people looking to replace that and you can probably buy the arm as a threaded steel rod from any good hardware store

[@PBRF77]

This guy got an arm made www.evansweb.info/2009/11/23/ls400-ride-height-sensor-repair/?LexusOwnersClubUK&ForumLinks

[@spelunkerd]

Good point, thanks for posting those links here, I'm sure they will help others. At first glance it seems over-engineered, but when you understand how those brackets have to move, you realize a ball and socket joint at each end works well. The OEM bracket was also equipped with left hand threads on one end, right hand on the other. That feature allows the user to adjust length with the turn of a wrench. Without that, you need to be sure you manufacture the part to the exact length -- in my case the end to end measurement from the center of the ball joint on each side was 4" (+/- 1/8"). If the new part is the same length as the old one, you may be able to get away without having to recalibrate the system, as I was able to do. Unfortunately if somebody already adjusted the headlights at the fixtures, recalibration is unavoidable.

[@diegocorona7388]

Good job!

[@stuzman52]

Hey Dave...very nice video and I like where you spent a little more time with this one to cover a little bit more of the details. As you probably know, the Tucker car from the 40's had the same idea of moving the headlights when going around curves. Because of complications, they settled for the cyclops eye in the center. And I would be doing the exact same thing when I heard you say that the dealer wanted $750 for that arm and sensor. Unbelievable....Do you know what kind of sensor was being used? possibly a potentiometer or an accelerometer. Great video Dave!!!!

[@spelunkerd]

Yes, what a shock. I got lucky because the bolt broke before the sensor was damaged, but many were not so fortunate. You can imaging that arm grinding the guts out of the sensor if the bolt doesn't give way, and so having a weak link will protect more expensive parts down the torque line. It's just a simple potentiometer, and on one forum a couple of engineers considered making their own. However the devil is in the details, and it would take some time to come up with the right copy. On some of those discussion forums they mention US prices vary between about $270 and $450, which is still outrageous. I think it is unconscionable that Lexus don't sell the arm by itself to their customers. What a scam. Even more of a scam when you see that our local dealer here in Canada basically doubles the US pricing.

[@stuzman52]

I'm just glad to hear Dave that you didn't have to spend all of that money. And even with US prices as you've mentioned, that's still very high. Good work as always Dave and looking forward to future videos. Take care and now you can take a break and watch a good movie on TV :)

[@ahill007ny]

Nice repair!!!!!

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks, man!

[@SamuelWamala]

Good info

[@seanyoon6413]

Thank you for showing all the detailed on how to fix. Mine is 2006 LX 400h and just AFS off light is on not flashing. I've checked under the vehicle where you have directed for the exact location of AFS at and it is not broken and all is looking clean and good. Make me wondering why AFS off light still on??? Please let me know what do you think is the problem?? Thank you for your help. Sean from Richmond, VA USA

[@spelunkerd]

A pro would start with a high end scan tool looking for specific codes that might direct the investigation. Often that gives enough information to know where to start checking connections to components like the rear or front sensors, etc. From there they would move on to checking for signals and maybe even using bidirectional control to turn components on and off to see how they are working. As you might expect, a professional workflow strategy requires expensive tools and experience. Without said tools, you could use a dealers manual (I use alldatadiy) that will list the components of the system, and you could check each for power and ground, inspect mechanical function, etc. Whether that will take you far enough to be able to fix it yourself is difficult to say, but you'll sure learn more about the system. One caution, I would never replace a part without clear evidence it is bad. That 'parts cannon' strategy is expensive and usually misguided. Good luck!

[@troylollysaf9311]

Sean Yoon Did you find the cause for your AFS Off light? Mine came on today, no broken cable.

[@peterhancock8011]

Switching Afs off with the button on the dash would cause this.

[@bgregg55]

JB-Weld likely would work also. I plain refuse to buy any new parts at a dealership anymore. They won't even offer to buy me dinner before they screw me.

[@spelunkerd]

That's a good point, there are many options beyond what I did here. For those with no access to a welder, it's often surprising how inexpensive it can be to get small parts welded by a pro. You just take the bare and clean part in, and often $20 cash is all it takes to get it put together on the spot. By removing the rubber seals before hand, there is very little work to the job.

[@deltadad68]

Do you still have your Dodge Ram? I always loved those repair videos.

[@spelunkerd]

Yeah, I drove it today. Still going strong, though it's pretty hard on gas and I've got major rust on the drivers side door. Still my favourite vehicle otherwise. Thanks for watching!

[@deltadad68]

Oh yes I will never sell my truck I've got too much in it. I learned a lot from your Doge Ram videos. Keep up the good work..

[@peterhancock8011]

The threaded bar has three nuts. Are the two nuts near the ends supposed to move freely and be used as locknuts when the bar is adjusted to the correct length?

[@spelunkerd]

Yes, exactly. By having threads for ends of the middle segment oppose each other (one left hand threads, the other right hand), it allows the tech to change the overall length by simply rotating the middle segment. It's not a novel idea but I find it intriguing. I was careful to reproduce the exact length of 4" when I welded and reassembled, so that I wouldn't have to recalibrate the sensor after I was done.

[@RicherThanMyParents]

But will my car drive tho🤷‍♀️ or am I damaging something else by not repairing it?

[@achilles1170]

Its off because engine is not started yet. Its on battery now but when engine will start the afs start blinking again that how is in my case

[@curiosity2314]

Nice repair, have to say that part with the sensor is not worth much more than 75 bucks but with that said this is an awkward way to sense ride height. Maximum over kill in system design. Banging ones head against the wall right now.

[@spelunkerd]

Yes, I agree completely. I was shocked to see those extra joints, and I wonder how an optical laser system would work. Probably those would fail too, like a computer mouse.

[@randydonald_m]

Nice job 🇸🇷

[@normansmith7806]

Good Fix !!

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks.

[@lovefaith1714]

'07 ES350, I pressed the button under the dash by mistake and it lit up JUST PRESSED IT AGAIN AND IT SIMPLY WENT OUT, WHEW!

[@hiyapal6819]

Great video and detail. I just found mine is broken too. Couldn't you just buy a threaded rod to replace that rather than weld it?

[@spelunkerd]

It has those two ball and socket joints, and one of the threads is left hand thread, in contrast with typical right hand threaded rod. Of course the left hand thread is to allow the length to be automatically adjusted by rotation of the center part. If you scroll through the comments, one viewer found the exact part for a European car, as I recall I think it was a BMW. If you find it, please stop back with a link for other viewers who stop by. Of course you can get one from a junk yard, just make sure the joints are well lubricated because I think the way it fails is by first rusting/seizing a joint, and then having not enough play in the movement when the car hits a bump. A welder could fix it very easily the way I did, it wouldn't likely be very expensive if you have both ends and clear advice about final length. All that said, I read about a guy who used heavy wire, tied to both ends, with enough slop in the movement to get around need for complex articulation of the two joints. This part strikes me as being overengineered, for what it is....

[@seeker4info]

Nice job man... I just have a question.. why this sensor is installed in the rear wheels while it suppose to be with the front wheels... or it is just for adapting the lights up and down not right and left

[@spelunkerd]

New cars have dozens of little modules to control all kinds of things, and the module controlling headlights uses data from various sensors to decide which way to point and shield headlights. These days, with really bright LED headlights, shielding is mandatory in new vehicles. You can sure recognize the aftermarket LED lights installed without shielding, they can blind oncoming drivers. I believe the rear sensor is just for up/down, not right left. When you think about it, you need to distinguish when the vehicle is driving up or down a hill compared to when the rear is pushed down compared to the front with extra weight in the back. Right/left is likely using input from signal lights and vehicle speed. I reluctantly shrug, at all that somewhat unnecessary technology.

[@seeker4info]

spelunkerd ... I just have acciden before 2 weeks it was in the front right side... I bought a new Taiwan Light (not original or nor second hand) ...after installing and finishing the painting.. this "AFS OFF" indicator start splinking...im thinking it was from the accident..but after seeing your nice video where the sensor is setting in the back side not the front, I have confused... Thanks for your replying...

[@spelunkerd]

First thing I'd do is get a dealer repair manual for your vehicle. I use alldatadiy but Mitchelldiy offer a similar product. You're looking for a schematic of the AFS system to learn where the components are. There are likely sensors in the front, too, so if the back is not obviously broken you'll want to check out the front. A scan tool might offer more exacting information regarding what is wrong, although cheaper generic OBDII scanners might not tell the whole story. I would look closely at the lighting fixture and casing to see if the little actuator motors to adjust headlight position and light cover position. Either might have been damaged in the accident. This may take some patience to work out, you need to factor in the value of your time to get a diagnosis.

[@ivanvgrebenyuk]

@@seeker4info your comment is 4yr old and I hope you fixed your AFS problem by now but I will reply as it may help someone else. The issue you are describing is related to little motors that are part of RX original headlights. This motors move headlights up and down. AFS Light will flash If one (or more) motor is broken or do not exist as you bought not the original headlight. I had this happen on my oem headlight. I bought this little motor used on ebay and it solved this problem until it came back again after my real link got broken and described in Dave'video. Anyway... it's pretty simple to fix by taking headlight a part and replace the motor, but you have to take the bumper off to take your headlights off. Be very careful with headlights when removing - attachment points a very fragile. You can tell if one if those motors are broken be turning your RX at night. Your headlights should move left and right right away after you start your car. You can if one of them do not move - your motor doesn't work. If you have aftermarket headlights without motors in them you can just take the AFS fuse out to get ride if the AFS Light as this function most likely will not work on those. Hope it helps

[@dwayne1983able]

Guys what is the name of the part, just in case I need to get one?

[@gmgm399]

Would it be possible to use a long threaded bolt, cut head off or rod that matches the thread? The assembly looks exactly like a minature sway bar link.

[@spelunkerd]

The tricky connection is where the shaft meets each end, because both ends need to be flexible enough to cope with bouncing over speed bumps as the angle between ends constantly changes. Of course bolting it solid so it can't move will never work. One possibility would be to drill a tiny hole across a 4" long solid rod at both ends, then use wire or a plastic quick-tie run through each hole, to hold each end firm to the matching connections so that the shaft transmits length information without allowing undue torque to twist and damage the sensor. I'm hoping people like yourself will stop by and describe their solution to this problem. If I had to do this again I'd check out the Mercedes link described in the thread, below. It looks like the identical part.

[@gmgm399]

I understand, it's the same setup on a sway bar link, maybe an alloy RC ball joint if not there is this www.ebay.com/itm/381353025388?var=650547706144 searching "ball joint" online yields different options or sizes. I appreciate the effort put in getting the part back into service. Cool video.

[@spelunkerd]

Great link, that one would have potential as far as building your own. Excellent price! They don't describe left hand threads but you could build your own rod if you can find metric threaded rod and if you could cut it to the right length. Around here most retailers only sell SAE threaded rod, although a specialty store might be able to get metric rod as a special order.

[@drsg9124]

how do you get that nut at the bottom of the shaft off from vehicle? It looks like one side is connected into the socket of the shaft assembly and the other side just spins freely when i try to unscrew the nut.

[@spelunkerd]

Spray it down with WD 40, brake clean, or whatever penetrating oil you have. Once all the dirt is gone, with good lighting you'll see there are flats you can get a small open end wrench on to hold the ball from spinning. Two wrenches, or maybe a wrench and vice grip pliers. Note also that the adjustment nuts that control shaft length are paired connections, one side right handed and the second left handed. That's because the total length is adjustable by turning the whole shaft. With one side left hand, one side right hand, turning the shaft behaves like a turnbuckle, extending or retracting depending on the direction of spin. I would try to avoid changing the length, which as I recall was about 4". it is correctly adjusted in the factory and if you mess that up you'll have to recalibrate the sensor. Good luck!

[@drsg9124]

@@spelunkerd Thank you. luckily my shaft assy didnt break. just need to clean/replace the sensor itself i think.

[@zx8401ztv]

Smashing repair, i dont blame you, the dealer was just taking the mickey, expensive :-(. The left/right handed thread adjuster is nice but not really needed, i bet there are ball joints out there that are similar but just right handed thread, easy to make one. I wonder what the actual sensor is, it looks crude so it may be no more than a reworked tank fuel sender resistor, i dont think precision matters lol. I hate "Special devices" its a license for the manufacturer to create expensive problems :-(.

[@spelunkerd]

Yes, I agree. It's just a potentiometer, and there are some nice videos here on youtube that show the inner workings. Commonly when one of the ball joints seize, those torsional forces are sent through to the potentiometer, ruining it. So I guess it would be better to have a weak sacrificial link in the system that is easily replaced. One of the remarks below show an identical looking arm on a Mercedes -- that might be worth looking for if the arm can't be repaired. Thanks for watching!

[@wtbm123]

More advanced system that the Tucker had . lol . Nice fix

[@zihermp]

Hi, thanks for great vid tutorial. Do you know what's the part number?

[@spelunkerd]

The parts man at my dealership could not find an exact part number for the part that was broken on my car. On a search I found this described as the "height control sensor link subassembly". If your exact part is also broken, take a screen shot of the video at 0:44 or 0:55 and ask your dealer. Better yet, search the net and try to find out who make them. I'm hoping one day a viewer who found that stops by and tells all of us, ha ha. One viewer found a link (below in this thread) to a used Mercedes part for sale that looked identical. Another option would be to ask a general parts store like NAPA or Lordco to find something similar, or perhaps even make your own. Your cheapest option is going to be a local junk yard, if you can find one of those.

[@zihermp]

This is link to lexus' parts seller. As You mentioned before, this is whole sensor which costs 400$. It's probably impossible to buy original bar stabiliser without sensor. www.xportautoparts.com/?year=2006&make=lexus&model=rx400h&search_str=height+sensor&scat=&p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all Part Number: 89407-48030

[@danielbob1973]

i have been battling with my afs light for a long time now. i replaced my two headlights and the afs light came on and refused to go away. i have adjusted the sensors to no avail

[@spelunkerd]

That must be frustrating. You've probably already done this but I would retrace your steps taken to replace headlights to see if the AFS motor and sensors near the headlights were somehow disconnected. It could be as simple as a ground wire that was disconnected. Or, it could be a mechanical issue with how the headlight fixture fits into the housing. You may get some information by using a high level code reader to help identify the problem. Sometimes the system just needs to reset itself, so you could disconnect the negative pole of the accessory battery and see if it will reset. Remember to get diagnostic codes before doing that because the codes may be lost after a battery reset. Failing all of that, I would start testing parts individually, which would be much easier with a scanner having bidirectional control. At some point it would be wise to ask for help at the dealership. Good luck! If you learn something that may help others, don't forget to stop by and let us know how it turned out.

[@user-qu6ox2pe4f]

I want ask you about my Lexus( is 2007 )The light it’s come up and down when I start the engine but it cannot move right and left can you tell me the solution please ??

[@spelunkerd]

I'm not sure if I completely understand your question, however as a first step it is probably wise to use a scan tool to look for diagnostic codes. There are several sensors involved in this circuit, if it is not the rear level sensor you'll have to look further.

[@Najito_1]

What’s the piece called

[@peterhancock8011]

Where are the other sensors for AFS? My light is flashing, but the sensor at the rear looks good.

[@spelunkerd]

Good question, I didn't explore that, I know some data comes from headlight controls. You can find more complete diagrams on the OEM dealers repair manual, inexpensive subscriptions available from third party sellers at Alldatadiy or Mitchelldiy. A high quality scan tool would likely offer more specific info if you are stuck. You could also measure input voltage and ground at the level sensor with a multimeter, then moving the arm to see if readings change. It's a simple varistor, so resistance when disconnected should change with arm position after disconnected from the circuit.

[@derekquinones8614]

Is this sensor located in the same place on my 08 gs 350 awd by chance?

[@spelunkerd]

No idea, I use alldatadiy for specific info. You could have a look yourself and see....

[@achilles1170]

so I did the same thing on my lexus rx400 but afs still was flashing. after a few weeks I bought a good one replaced it but it still flashing when the engine starts

[@spelunkerd]

There are also little motors in the front that move headlights, and I believe the code is not specific for that one afferent sensor. With the expense of these parts I would not replace any more sensors until they are proven to be bad. If the signal is still flashing you could disconnect the neg pole of the battery in case the PCM needs to be initialized for the new sensor. I did not change the length of the lever arm, to try and give myself every chance of not needing a professional initialization procedure with dealer software. Of course check that the little lever and arm are moving properly for the load sensor. If you are still interested in trying to fix it yourself, I would review a copy of the dealers repair manual. My subscription was through Alldata which is much more economical than going directly through the dealer. The way professionals make the diagnoses for these systems is through their proprietary Techstream software, with the ability to turn individual devices on and off and with the ability to read input data through the PCM. That saves a lot of time. Without a high level scanner, you could check resistance of the new sensor with a multimeter while you move the arm, to prove it is good. I believe these are simple variable resistors so resistance should vary smoothly as the arm is moved through its arc. Then I would check the wiring from the sensor to the PCM to look for a broken wire or corroded connector. Of course don't forget to check fuses. If you have a scanner that can read live data you could move the arm and see if the PCM reading changes. If all that checks out OK, I would move on to investigate the headlights and other sensors in the system to see if they are properly connected. Good luck!

[@achilles1170]

spelunkerd thanks so much

[@landokalrisian4276]

Great fix and save that money to have a night out!

[@hardytall8386]

I got similar probleme on my is250 showimg afs off what should I do ?

[@spelunkerd]

The hardest task, which is completely personal to the viewer, is how much risk and effort you're willing to put in. Many decide that they are better off working at their own job and let a pro handle car repair, it's not a bad decision. If it were me I would roll under the car and have a look at where that level sensor is. If not under the right rear axle, I'd consider having a look at the dealers' service manual for more info. I use alldatadiy. If you see a broken stud like in my case, you've got a likely diagnosis and plan. Good luck!

[@hardytall8386]

@@spelunkerd thank you very much I will try and roll down the car and see the senser arm

[@nofunster]

My dealer just quoted me 600$ with install for each i wish you would have showed us the front location as well they have after market whole units for 300 at auto zone or 100 just sensor

[@spelunkerd]

I use alldatadiy, which gives you access to the dealer repair manual and all their TSB's for 5 years, it's about $45. Those details are probably there, I let my subscription lapse last year. Good luck!

[@CGeeThompkins]

Great video. Of course, my AFS OFF light is on after having a battery installed in the sensor that monitors tire pressure. It doesn't annoy me yet😁.

[@spelunkerd]

Gee, I didn't know that the TPMS system is hooked into the AFS system. We would get a specific tire pressure problem light, it didn't activate the AFS warning when we switched to winter tires without TPMS sensors. As you say, a little annoying, you might consult the dealers manual. I used Alldatadiy, it was about $45 for a 5 year subscription. I wonder if the vehicle balance was tilted when you had a bad tire, then trouble code persists after fixing it. Or, you might have two issues, this broken bracket I had is a common problem. A scanner might offer diagnostic codes to help with investigation.

[@CGeeThompkins]

spelunkerd True. No connection that I am aware. It was just happenstance😁

[@rhkips]

That piece looks really familiar... Older Mercedes with self-leveling suspension (SLS) used an adjustable rod almost exactly like that. Here's one here for about $40. mercedessource.com/store/123-300td-wagon-sls-leveling-adjusting-valve-linkage-used

[@spelunkerd]

Wow, excellent link, thanks for posting it here. It looks identical, though it would be nice to know dimensions. Mine is now fixed, but for $40 I would have jumped on a new one. I'm sure your link will help others. I found a few that looked close, on ebay, but none as close as this one!

[@rhkips]

spelunkerd I wish I still had my old Benz; I'd take a measurement for you! As I recall, 4" sounds right in the ballpark. If for some reason you want to go looking, the W124 and W123 chassis Mercedes wagons used nearly identical parts, and there are probably lots of replacement parts still floating around there. Look for "Mercedes SLS Adjustment Rod" or something similar. :)

[@NewLevelAuto]

rhkips Dorman makes the replacement arm separately. Just in case you were wondering 😆

[@rhkips]

Good to know! I tend to be a bit iffy about Dorman stuff, but it'll get you by in a pinch. :)

[@spelunkerd]

Yes, thank you. I'm a little surprised my dealer didn't know that but in any case it is good to know.

[@badr-alsermah]

how lexus es350 model 2007

[@spelunkerd]

I don't know, probably similar, check the manual.

[@badr-alsermah]

thank you

[@badr-alsermah]

you nice

[@badr-alsermah]

I found what I was looking for

[@rickb5158]

2000.00 for a headlight !

[@dwpetty3723]

Couldn't you just use some all thread.

[@spelunkerd]

That was my first instinct, since you don't need the complex multifunctional extendability of this arm. When the car is sitting in the driveway you don't appreciate how much the arm needs to swing, mostly side to side but also front to back. Ball joints are one way to allow movement. Is there a DIY solution? I've seen discussion by some DIY mechanics where they wire up a looped coathanger between the two pivot points, to try and provide the combination of mobility and rigidity needed. It would be interesting to see if that works over the long term. I would worry a little that a DIY solution might put the sensor at risk for damage when the car hits a big bump, and replacing the sensor would be next if it fails. If I had to do this again and I couldn't repair the broken part, I would look for that arm again on Ebay and elsewhere. There's a market for somebody with the initiative to find a supply and advertise on Ebay. Lower down in this thread there is a link to a Mercedes part which looks like the exact copy for $40! I'm hoping people who do this in the future will take the time to pass on their experience to others, by describing how they solved the problem. Thanks for chiming in!

[@12vgs8606]

$700 for single sensor?

[@spelunkerd]

Yes, $750, and that is double what the dealers manual describes. We live on a Canadian island, and I assume part of this is the fact it is Canadian dollars. Of course the dealership will also complain about extra duty, extra money to pay employees, extra taxes, extra shipping charges. However with no competition, I think a big part of why they would charge so much for a simple potentiometer is because they can. I love to support local brick and mortar businesses in the local area, but they should do better than that.

[@12vgs8606]

After you welded it was there any calibration needed? I mean it needs some reference to find the level from which it can then decide if the light need to go up or down.

[@spelunkerd]

No calibration needed in my case.

[@bolafson]

@@spelunkerd I bought the link part on Amazon for $65 CAD Looking at it, if you are working with an older car I think a small turnbuckle would work just as well.

[@chardthomas5140]

Send me the link to buy that part I need one

[@MuhammadAsif-lc9yd]

Asif