ALTERNATOR CHARGING OR NOT? (for a camper electrical system)

This video will help you decide on if you should use alternator charging (or not) in your camper electrical system.
Time to Charge Calculator: www.explorist.life/time-to-ch...
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[@EXPLORISTlife]

*EXPLORIST.life Alternator Charging Wiring Kit:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/component-wiring-kits/victron-orion-wiring-kit/

[@LowPriceEdition]

I ordered my truck with a second alternator with the thought that I could use it to charge a DIY electrical setup in my truck camper. The box of AUX switches is setup for 30amps or less. Im not really sure how to get the power from that second alternator to the camper in the best way possible. Mind you this is only while driving. I have a 2500 watt gen to charge while parked and 200 watt solar to top off. I like the idea of alternator charging for two reasons. One, to back up the generator if I need to conserver propane. Two, to charge up between campsites since the gen is a bit noisy for any potential neighbors I like have the batts topped off before I park.

[@JohnAdams-qy8ue]

One needs to consider their own situation. Nate, you live in the mountains of Colorado, and mostly enjoy dry and not-so-hot summers. We mostly travel in the southeast, and thus regularly face hot and humid situations -- where AC is important! Given our desire for AC, we have a Sprinter (170) with 810Ah of lithium batteries and 525 watts of solar (this is all 12 volt). We are adding a second alternator, which allows us to quickly charge up while doing just a bit of driving. Notably, a large battery bank allows us to to better separate periods of charging from periods of consumption. BTW, we prefer to park in the shade when it is hot, which avoids heat gain but reduces solar generation. Finally, I will add that "the good news about a big battery bank is that you can run your AC (or anything else) without worrying so much about consumption." The bad news about a big battery bank is that you gave to charge it! A second alternator is a great solution. I am happy to have a single internal combustion engine on my Sprinter. A generator adds extra weight, takes room, requires maintenance, etc. I already have an ICE under the hood. Better to use that sophisticated engine to run a 2nd alternator instead of fooling with a generator. At least that's how I see it.

[@JohnS-zq8ks]

I think "redundancy" and "travel style" determine whether B2B makes sense to include in the charging mix. Weather and angle to the sun (think Alaska) often greatly diminish solar charging contribution. Driving every 2-3 weeks vs. every two or three days is informative. You're assuming a huge battery bank (e.g., air conditioner) and possibly over-relying on good weather. For 200-300AH banks, most can simply upgrade their existing alternator (to max allowed by manufacturer as a "direct replacement") and use a B2B charger. For example, my 2006 Dodge 3500 sprinter allowed for a 200 amp alternator. Calculating a load on that Bosch alternator, I could leave 20% in cushion/reserve and still use a Sterling 1260 charger, which I typically leave on 50 amps but sometimes 60 amps. If I had a larger bank 400-800AH, I'd still do an alternator charger, either direct replacement or second alternator, especially if I drove a lot. Generators are ok (I carry a Honda 2000), but they suck in terms of noise. In a good boondocking location, running a generator doesn't endear you to other campers. I'm a fan of your videos, but this one might have been a little underdeveloped in terms of pros and cons basis the application in one's rig. Like solar, once the capital outlay has been made, alternator charging is essentially a free bee, albeit a trivial amount of additional expense in fuel. The biggest upside of alternator charging is redundancy: just another source in one's charging arsenal.

[@RonPaulgirls]

YEA, THAT'S ABOUT IT.........I'VE TRIED AND DEVELOPED ALL THES ALTERNATIVES AND THEY ALL HAVE THEIR LIMITATIONS WHEN DOING LONG TERM OFF GRID............GENERATORS ARE HORRIBLE....BUT SOME TIMES NEC...LIKE MAYBE A WEEK OUT OF THE YEAR, MAYBE..........ALTERNATORS PUT A LOT OF WEAR ON THE ENGINE, IF OVER USED.......IDEALLY THE MIX WOULD BE 90 PERCENT SOLAR, 10 ALTERNATOR AND 5 PERCENT GENERATOR, WORSE CASE SENARIOR, HEATING IS THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE, WHICH CAN CHANGE THE ENTIRE PICTURE AND ELEVIATE THE NEEDS FOR ALTERNATORS AND GENERATORS, WHAT EVER YOUR HEAT SOURCE MAY BE..........GAS, PROPANE, DIESEL OR WHATEVER, AGAIN MERELY AS ALTERNATIVE BACK UPS....

[@diconustra]

Excellent comment.

[@WindsongPodcast]

Good comment thanks. Can you maybe direct me to where to look to learn how to set up something like this in a van?

[@JohnS-zq8ks]

Nate discussed this on his site of course. If you google the topic, many, many van lifers have implemented alternator charging solutions in van builds. @@WindsongPodcast

[@WindsongPodcast]

​@@JohnS-zq8ksthanks. What is Nate's site, and what exactly are the words that you would Google to get this info?

[@JogBird]

where you live matters as well, in canada, solar is only useful 4 months of the year.. rest of time theres snow or sun is too low

[@fraserxiong3921]

Just abt comment that

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yeah, that's a great point as well.

[@CountryBoyMoto]

I have the solar and generator options but still went with the 30 amp alternator charger for my 824 amp/hr bank. I did it mainly because I have a 12 volt dc refrigerator that will be running as we are driving and I want to keep the system topped off with that charger and use the other options when camping.

[@fratermus5502]

My charging is 95% solar, but alternator charging saved my bacon when I got trapped on the Oregon coast in wildfires. My array was putting out *1.6% of rated power* at local solar noon in the smoke haze. For a month.

[@EdClarkePC]

Thanks for the video Nate. Your broad expertise combined with your skill of distilling complicated topics to actionable plans makes you the van builder's oracle. I think most of us viewers will benefit from a more comprehensive exploration of this topic than charging a large battery bank from empty to full. One of the reasons I installed a large battery bank (600Ah-24V) was to create time between use of electricity and recharging. I usually start an adventure with full batteries charged from my Multiplus plugged into the grid. Since I don't currently have an air conditioner, I can easily spend a week or more off-grid without charging at all, which is nice if I'm posted up at a backcountry ski area with cloudy skies or snow on the solar panels. Solar is my primary charging source and it eventually tops off the batteries. But in the odd case I'm running low on power, the reliable but slow charge rate of the DC-DC charger is very welcome. When you're out, a little matters!

[@gfaucett]

I hear a lot about different charging solutions for RVs-DC-DC charging, solar, generators, etc.- and it's great that we live in a time when there are so many options. Ultimately, the best option depends on how you travel and the sources you have available for charging. In my case, I've recently upgraded my setup to include 2 200Ah LiFePO4 batteries in parallel, along with a Victron MultiPlus II charger/inverter. The Victron MultiPlus II is a versatile device that acts as a charger and an inverter. It seamlessly switches between shore and battery power, allowing me to make the most of the 50-amp service at RV parks every night. This setup has been ideal for my large Cameo fifth wheel. However, if one lives off-grid more frequently or parks without access to shore power, other charging solutions like solar or DC-DC alternators might be more suitable. Solar is excellent for off-grid living and provides a sustainable way to charge batteries, providing you're in an area where there is sun or you aren't parked under shade. DC-DC charging from a vehicle's alternator or an additional 2nd alternator can be a great option for charging while driving. It's all about understanding your usage patterns and choosing the right solution. While my setup works well because I mostly stay at RV parks with shore power, someone who frequently boondocks might prefer to add solar or DC-DC charging. For now, batteries, a good charger/inverter, and nightly shore power perfectly meet my needs.

[@alainmasse5461]

Love your channel!! I have a Sprinter van and I live in California. Personally alternator charging is a must. It keeps my Isotherm fridge cold while driving and it tops up my auxiliary battery bank 100%. Redundancy is key for me in case one fails or I don't have enough clear days for my solar panel. I love my solar setup but it is not much help in Tahoe when it has been snowing for 3 consecutive days.

[@andrewkrenske7263]

One major benefit of some of the better dc-dc chargers that you don’t even mention is that when your batteries are full and you have solar power coming I. they will trickle charge your starter battery. A combination of solar and dc-dc is what you should be recommending

[@macmann3902]

I am using dual 200 amp alts on my rig for 3 years now, one came stock and I added one. Got it from a wrecked truck with the same engine for $100 (like new) and had a local welding shop fab up a bracket for $125 and a new longer belt from Autozone for $48. I have 600 watts of solar and use the alts only when it's cloudy/rainy/AC needed on a hot day. No issues and no worries so far. Just up the idle to 1200 rpm and 4800 (let's round down to 4000 watts) watts will charge up the batts fast on the days I need it.

[@robinhooper7702]

Hey, Nate. Thanks for your ' Time To Charge Calculator' I needed this for my E-bike that I have mounted onto the wishbone frame, to trickle charge my batteries, as I ride my e-bike. I am presently building a Buck Boost Converter to accommodate the difference voltages and Amps from the alternator to the my battery bank. Thanks again.

[@farout.vanman]

YES 100 percent need it!!! I've been in my van for 2 years, and it's really the only way I can keep a full charge!!

[@Bwanar1]

In addition to your just having solar, I think you need to factor in the time of year and latitude you are going to be traveling in and the fact that you won't always have sun; sometimes for days. I think alternator charging is a great thing to have, for additional charging capability, even for a back up. When you are traveling down the road, the additional stress the alternator will put on today's large diesel engines is negligible at best. Solar is by far the most expensive option. All things considered, a generator is your best bang for your buck, and super convenient if you are burning the same fuel from a large tank as your engine does.

[@KA9DSL]

I added an extra 100@ alternator to my van with a home designed voltage/current regulator to protect it regardless of engine RPM. (300@hr lithium batteries). Internal regulator had no current circuit. Works great, never have to worry about alternator burnout. Simple PWM circuit. I charge the batt's to 80% state of charge, last longer that way.

[@lkazanov]

Very nice, another point to consider is the voltage of the system. If considering a 48 volt build, then a second 48 volt alternator is practically a must.

[@qguitar1]

Hello I have the victron orion 24 volt, 15 amp alternator charger installed on a ford transit with 700 watts of solar on the roof. This is my backup for when you have multiple days of cloudy, snowy or rainy weather , parking in a dense forest when off grid , in between canyon walls .. ect. Alternator charging this way gives you options for very little money. I love this unit, it works great and is reliable so far . IMPORTANT!! Wire in the alternator charger with an on off switch so that it can be used selectively when you need it. In real world conditions my Victron orion Alternator charger puts out about 320 watt , 11 amps at 27+ volts . This works out perfect for me. If the engine runs for a 1 hour this gives me 19000 WATT MINUTES of charge. I would not , do not , use alternator charging as a main wattage source. I do like your vids. Have been following you from back in the mountain bike days. ... side note.. the WATT MINUTE is so much easier to use as a unit of battery useage and keep track of in my head. I make a cup of coffee. The coffee maker runs for 2 minutes at 1750 watts. 2x1750= 3500 watt minutes. Subtract 3500 from my total watt minutes the battery bank has and your done . Run the alternator charger for one hour and I can make 5 more cups of coffee. YES!! Sorry for the long post. Mike

[@czealtamahawk1228]

??? confused me

[@artatexture889]

I think you all are one of the best channels for solar on the you tube , I just recommended you all to a friend. keep up the great work.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, Artatexture! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@JBrown-xm1lk]

Hello Nate, I have finished the install of my Battle Born / Explorist Life install. I have been on the fence about the alternator charging prior to your video. I have a factory 2nd battery that was factory installed that the alternator charges already. I installed the wiring but did not install the DC to DC charger. I decided to take your advice and trust my instincts. I have a small Honda generator that if my solar falls short, I can supplement power from it. I want to thank you for all the information, videos etc. I am very proud of the results I have gotten. I am the guy with average electrical skills you often mention. I know without your expertise my great results would not have happened. Thank you!

[@kennethskou5597]

Good one I bet there will be some discussions on that topic. Look forward to seeing the build. - But as a North European Vanlifer, not very useful for me. We hate generators here 🙂 - and we actually don't have very much sunshine in winter time - SO we usually have 2 systems running to charge the batteries. Solar panels AND DC/DC charger from the generatos also. I even swapped to a bigger Amp generator for mine. Oh, and not very many over here have aircon units in the back - and only newer cars have in front.

[@StratRider]

This answers a question I have pondered for many months. Thank you

[@ZillaYT]

I spec’d a 2nd 250A alternator on my Ford Transit, so I’ll definitely be using it.

[@64maxpower]

For me I'm able to understand electrical systems from you more easily than anyone else. I have electrical anxiety and you make it easy

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@joshedcostanza]

Thanks again Nate! I landed on wiring two 24/12 30A Chargers in parallel for the time being as one was not effective enough on a 540ah system. Just waiting for a Nation's alternator install video now ;)

[@stewartperry7797]

You always put out simple and first class information. Love your channel❤

[@EXPLORISTlife]

I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!

[@jimmiller4951]

Thank you for this video and the link to see what times are involved . That was a game changer for me .Peace

[@paveloleynik2743]

There is always possibility of bad weather and there is a winter season when sun stays low and weather is not a good one.

[@matthewbaker5414]

Hey Nate, first want to say thanks for all the help with my 2022 transit. TOPIC ALTERNATOR CHARGING. Wish I would have gone with a dedicated wake speed but I ordered my van way back in 2021 with dual. I am having a hard time implementing third party high power mode and or SEIC high idle. I have attempted several methods with grounding pins under the driver seat 3/1 as well at using the higher spec interface grounding options with no increase in voltage. Currently power a victron 30 amp Dc/dc and a sterling 120. It pulls well at idle but never ramps up rpm’s and don’t want to destroy my alternator, I have also wired an emergency extra charge source via an inverter that feeds my multiplus. I have dual transfer switches so I can feed the multiplus from my battery bank and it thinks it’s shore power via generator or switch to direct from ccp2 giving me an extra Dc/AC/DC charger and resulting in 250 amps from my batteries. I know your crazy busy but I am at a dead end

[@stephencantbewrong8250]

Thank you for the help!

[@mjremy2605]

I have a Class C - older model. I have a Generator 4000W, plus an alternator charging from engine battery. I don't have any solar yet. However, I would not do away with the alternator charging because ... it is silent. The generator makes A LOT OF NOISE. You arrive at a residential destination lets say, and its nighttime. You cannot use the generator there, cops will be called. But if your alternator worked while you drove, then you have enough juice in batteries to power up lights and basics. What happens if solar is not working optimally AND Genset gives you trouble? At least you have the alternator back up. I think you should always have it. Good video, learned something. Thank you!

[@lylestavast7652]

and you have basically no option in the sunless snowy winter for days on end unless you carry a separate generator. worst case with a DC-DC, you can run the engine and get SOMETHING.... But your points are well taken and pretty much cover the issues without being totally extreme case driven. Always a mix of options depending on intended use patterns. Good video !

[@dbkonkle]

Your calculations at 2:30 mark are theoretically possible but will take longer in practice. I have 200 amp 12 volt lithium batteries being charged by a 20 amp dc/dc charger and the charger may start off at 18-20 amps into the battery, but slows as the batteries get above about 90%. From 10% to 100% regularly takes over 11 hours with the engine running. It’s still way better than trying to use solar panels though.

[@stevehunt2115]

Hi Nate, great videos, I have 2 battery banks (4xhouse and 1xengine) on my boat and two alternators all connected with 2 Argofet 100-2 battery isolators - can I connect dc to dc charging convertors (on the output from the argofets) to get the modified charging profiles to optimise charging?

[@MrJfred78]

Thanks for all the videos. I'm still trying to figure everything out. Is it not possible to charge the battery bank from solar and the alternator at the same time if you have a charge controller for each?

[@rickharold7884]

Right on!

[@pete9501]

Nate, Steph, don't forget all the yachties that are ear wigging on the side learning too, so thanks for making these videos.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

😂🤣 It's tough to remember when when every body of water within 200mi of us is frozen solid. Do yachts generally have on-board generators?

[@pete9501]

@@EXPLORISTlife Yes they do, particularly over 40ft either diesel or the Honda 20i. However, many of us are now installing serious solar panels. We have 600w on a 31ft yacht, with inverters to manage electric cooking. We may add another 300w. A Remoska being the killer solution and very popular across Europe for cooking. An oven that will cook a full roast duck and roast potatoes on 580w is a great solution and bakes super cakes too. Add a Alpicool freezer in addition to the fridge plus portable washing machine and we are pretty much self sufficient from April to September. It's all the same technology, Sterling or Victron inverters, DC>DC chargers, lithium batteries and solar.

[@hennnnerz]

I have a smart alternator in my 2020 van and my orion b2b charger doesn't always charge while I am driving and seems to stop around 80% a lot of the time. So the 10 hours of charging the calculator suggests may not always be accurate?

[@bigman2xl905]

Nate, I have watched all your videos on alternator charging a battery bank and have downloaded your chart. I have a 2023 Ford transit extended and am stuck on the wire size needed. Is 4 gauge wire large enough from under the drivers seat to the rear of the van with a run of 20-30 feet?

[@shelley131]

I have a 2019 Class B and have been thinking of replacing the 200ah agm batteries that came with it. They just can't keep the fridge running all night long. So what would I need to check for in my van to order the parts required? Battle Born has a Battery that fits on the original compartment outside underneath the Beyond. When you say alternator charging is this the same as DC to DC charging? I lover your videos but there is so much information you have that I get befuddled. Thank you for the hard work you in educating slow people like myself.

[@nonyabizness.original]

i (rarely) use an 85a solenoid as a backup charging method for my small 200ah lithium batts.

[@pifle9471]

I ran into your channel and now I've got sooooo much content to watch ! 😅 Which brings me to something; I was trying to chose a DC-DC charger on the web and noticed there are ''isolated'' and ''non isolated'' models available. A quick video explaining why we'd need one over the other would be so great ! ;) I guess it's got to do with the vehicle being hooked on the grid while camping or not ? hmmm.... 🤔 Keep up the (very) good work. It's pretty rare we see craftmanship at that level on all these rv-related channels, cheers !

[@EXPLORISTlife]

I only recommend Isolated versions as they work in 100% of use cases. I don't like relying on the chassis as a negative conductor like necessary with the non isolated version.

[@pifle9471]

@@EXPLORISTlife You just explained in one sentence. Thanks!

[@kenderkatz3255]

When running the Orion or buck boost, can you just run one power wire and use a chassis ground on both ends to prevent running two large wires through the van?

[@jackmason7518]

Good Morning. I have 2 200watt solar panels on roof and 2 100ah Battle Born Batteeies. A 5th wheel. Just drivie whth no boost charging will the truck realy charge the batteries when driving and no solar on or will it just turn on lights when driving. Jack

[@mikejf4377]

Question, home solar or flexible solar panels for a RV?

[@gilpiau2405]

Salut Nate, Dans la description, je n'ai pas trouver le lien vers la calculatrice de charge des batteries.

[@NickMcEntee]

I am planning on going with the nations 280 amp alternator and skip solar all together. Just trying to decide between the balmar or wakespeed regulator. I don’t plan on siting anywhere for long periods of time. I also won’t have much roof space on my Sprinter 144 for any panels.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

The new Battle Born Batteries will very likely have communications with a Wakespeed since BB just bought them; so I'd be going that route for sure.

[@Noah-qt3rq]

The Bogart Engineering SC2030 is a great option for 12V alternator charging at 30A

[@Tilley52]

there are many use cases where alternator charging has other systems beat. In my case i started with a victron 30 am dc to dc. but while driving (class c motorhome) i switch my fridge to electric, that takes up 1/3-1/2 of my dc-dc, then my kids are on computer or game systems. and its the rest of the power is used up if not dipping to negative already. Not to mention the AC in the dash can not cool the coach and its surprisingly hot. so when i fire up the roof ac its using 1500 watts. So i added 1600 watts of solar panels to my roof, thats the most i could physically fit. they are flat on the roof so most of the time they are in the 1000-1200 watt input range. so i am still short on power. not to mention i like driving when its dark because its usually a bit quieter and less traffic. So the solar is useless then. I do have a onboard generator, but the wife and kids always forget to start it before the batts die and leave it running when its not needed. Plus it just burns fuel because its a fixed speed 4000watt onan, it just adds more stuff to service and keep track of and interact with especially when driving in the mountains, sometimes it dies and you gotta stop and turn the elevation adjustment. So i ordered the alternator kit with lithium regulator and harness like you showed here in a 200 amp version. That should cover all my basis when i get where im going the batts will be full and the extra ground deployable panels will cover the needs most of the time. the generator is my last fail safe option

[@lebraun12345]

Sound like you may benefit from also setting the generator to auto start/stop based on battery SOC as well, then it won’t be forgotten on, you could set the generator to start up when the SOC hits 30% and turn off at 80% or something similar.

[@Tilley52]

@@lebraun12345 I have an auto start but it's only enabled when parked and boondocking. If not it's just cycling the batteries for often then needed. The 200amp alt setup works well, when the engine is running I don't have to worry about anything. It uses a wakespeed regulator which is pretty fancy, it has temperature compensated charging as well as voltage and current. I couldn't even turn off the main battery disconnect and the alternator powers inverter directly. But it was a very spendy setup and a lot of people might not justify it

[@kbrown7570]

Look into the car audio market for battery banks and alternators. Can find 250-375amp alternators from $400 -750

[@kevinb4438]

Options, always good. -past generator hours -Rained for 5 days -Treed campsite

[@oppositeistrue]

I love what you do Nath, Quick question that's been doing my head in... Why use an inverter at all when everything useful in livin it rough is 12 Volt? Help us out bud, I must be missing something, what actually is too be gained by using a Invertor. Thanks Bud.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Induction cooktop is 120V. My laptop is too powerful for a 12V outlet, realistically at 230W. Kettle for boiling water is 120V. But yeah... if you don't need 120V items, you won't need an inverter.

[@armedmariner]

Nate. I ordered my Ford F350 from the factory with an 8’ bed for a self-build stand up camper shell. I ordered it with dual batteries and dual alternators. They are high output 410A alternators. I ASSUME the secondary alternator feeds the secondary battery and is NOT cross connected to the starter battery and starter alternator? If that’s true (not cross connected) then seems like all I need to do is run from secondary alternator to a Regulator to my TBD designed house battery bank??? What do you know about this type of set up on the big Super Duties? Any advice? Point me in a good direction?

[@daricstegall7903]

Hi Nate, Great Video, as usual. If I'm running a 48V System, how can I use my 12V alternator to charge it. I've yet to find a solution. Thoughts?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yeah, that's tough, and one of the main reasons I don't recommend using 48V in mobile applications.

[@gutgod-of6xk]

Good stuff Nate! In a motor home, what is the best way to disable or disconnect the alternator from charging the Lifepo4 house batteries? Thanks, Jim

[@Tedsma]

I have been searching for the answer to this question for days as well. On my rig I have an Isolator relay delay and a Trombetta Solenoid. My engine needs to be running to power the slide out. I'm hoping I can just disconnect a wire on the solenoid to disable alternator charging.

[@Mikeonabus]

Thank you

[@caseyarmstrong7064]

Hey Nate, when will you be coming out with some RV wiring projects. Thank you

[@EXPLORISTlife]

3rd Sunday of every month from July-Nov 2023.

[@nickc8438]

Hey Nate, thanks for the video. I was thinking no alternator charging either. I want to add 100-200 lithium to my 5th, but I don't want to use the alternator to charge. I have a 110 volt fridge that runs during travel. I think the draw is 6 amps per hour. Say i drive 7 hrs thats 42 amps nothing for a lithium to handle. Then when I stop for the night, shore power will charge my batteries. I guess all I need to do is disconnect the power pin at the junction box on the 5th. Please let me know your take. Thanks, Nick

[@JohnLaFosse]

I installed a 30A Renogy DC to Dc charger w/ MPPT. I simply put the shut off on the solar and one switch for the battery. I charge up relatively quickly when driving to work and don't use much electricity yet seeing the camper isn't fully flushed out. Is there really that much wear and tear on the vehicle to charge the batteries while driving? I'm only using the diesel heater, refrigerator, and an outlet with USB for small items / appliances. I intend to make it a 3 battery bank, the 2000W inverter upgrade is going in now and I'll installing a fan, a water pump, and another 20amp outlet for use with an infrared hotplate that will surge up to 1800W at the most. Isn't the belt on the alternator going to turn anyway while driving? I'd have to be parked for 3 or 4 days depending and be completely overcast before considering running the engine. For my needs due to my work schedule vacations won't happen where I get extended periods of time and 3 days is about the most I'll be doing for my needs. For a retired full time sprinter person I get it but not entirely clear why alternator charging is doing much harm to the vehicle. (I need more coffee)

[@AmrHollywood]

I have seen ambulance alternator replacements for 2003 Ford Econoline but I wonder if the extra capacity will be actually usable without a special wiring harness; I planned on using a dual battery isolator but now I see solar mppt / dual battery isolater with lithium capable charger integrated in one unit.

[@abettermankind9761]

Thanks Nate. Without your videos I would have struggled installing my Victron system. I just finished adding 2 Orion chargers to the system and put them on 2 manual switches. It gives me the autonomy to have them completely off, 1 on or both operating depending on the weather and status of the battery bank. The best system ever. Thanks again for your help. 🚐💨

[@mrdavesivertsen]

Thanks for the video. Please consider my case, with a ModelY as my Tow Vehicle. I'd like to keep my vehicle range as high as possible, so I'm considering not charging my pop up camper battery. Most use is weekends with shore power. Can I just clip the battery charge wire from the 7 pin connector, and use a regular battery charger from shore power or solar? Is it possible to run my camper lights (including tail and brake) from the camper battery? I'm planning to swap bulbs to LED, perhaps the draw from LEDs isn't enough to worry about? Thanks!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

You should just be able to disconnect that wire from the trailer battery so you can easily reconnect it when you go to sell it.

[@timf6916]

Good information.

[@billyk7831]

Hey Nate will you be making a video on how to wire alternator charging to the Ford Transit?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yep!

[@kirkdeweese7334]

@@EXPLORISTlife If possible, could you also touch on the pros/cons of going with Ford's factory installed 2nd alternator, vs an aftermarket 2nd alternator, dedicated to house battery charging?

[@robertacasey5204]

Would be great to add thoughts of the Ford Transit trail. Can get a 2nd alternator factory installed for $1,000 and comes with 2 batteries. We'll be installing "house" batteries and would like thoughts on best way to connect to what Ford installs.

[@sal8743]

what about charging the start battery, while motor standstill, with the battery bank? Wich component would you use and wich setup?

[@petermountford3614]

Hello Nate, a general question from the UK - I am thinking of installing on my boat a 130W solar panel as a stand alone system which will supplement the existing electrical system. My boat is a 1950’s motor cruiser and when not in use I keep a heavy weight cover on the boat. Consequently, the panel will be covered and not charging during this time. Will this damage the solar panel? I plan to switch it off from the Victron controller using an appropriate isolation switch. I only need the panel to be working when I am on the boat. Thanks for producing these videos they are very informative.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

That shouldn't be an issue, no. That would essentially just be like having a solar panel in your garage being unused.

[@petermountford3614]

Many thanks 😊

[@gilpiau2405]

Hello Nate, In the description I couldn't find the link to the battery charge calculator.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

www.explorist.life/time-to-charge-a-battery-bank-calculator/

[@patricktrier4503]

If you plan to use a generator to charge the batteries when boondocking, how long can you charge at say 70 amps with a 850 continuous watts generator? That is near full load. I heard that may not be a good idea. The alternative to that is running 2 Orion with my truck idling. Which is a better idea

[@MelanieMiller-dz5jl]

Hi Nate, Quick question kind of related to this. I bought your wiring diagram and it shows 6 awg wire and a 60 amp fuse off the van starter battery. My van battery is 100 amp and my alternator is 180 amp; should I use 4awg wire and 100 amp fuse off the van starter battery? thanks, I know this is pretty basic stuff, but I want to be sure.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Nope. 6ga wire and a 60A fuse as shown on the diagram.

[@HaskieSubscriptions]

Good video as always Nate. Question! Do you know if an Orion can run both ways? There have been a couple of times that I've gone out to my RV and found that I had left my headlights on and my engine battery is completely dead. If I had an Orion set up for alternator charging (I don't in reality, but...), would I be able to run the Orion backwards to send power from my battery bank to the engine battery and charge it that way? I don't think I would ever do this, it was just a funny little thought I had one time and wondered if it would work.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

The orion doesn't go both directions, no. You COULD wire in a jump start isolator, but the more simple solution is simply to carry one of these: amzn.to/3JDPfjV

[@RonPaulgirls]

I'VE ACTUALLY DONE THAT SEVERAL TIMES OVER THE DECADES.......WORSE CASE, I WOULD CONNECT CABLES FROM THE HOUSE BATTERIES TO THE TRUCK BATTERY, I ALSO HAD AN ADVANCED DC ISOLATOR THAT WOULD GO BOTH WAYS........I ALSO HAD ADVANCED CHARGERS THAT I COULD CONNECT FROM VARIOUS SOURCES TO THE TRUCK BATTERY..........EVENTUALLY I GOT SMART AND KEPT BETTER BATTERIES FOR THE TRUCK AND DUMPED ALTERNATOR CHARGING ALL TOGETHER.....MUCH LESS STRAIN ON THE ENGINE, TRUCK BATTERY, ETC....LIVE AND LEARN

[@antsmarching]

What are your thoughts about doing DC-AC-DC? MultiPlus plugged into a 2000W “Vehicle Inverter” and then have the MP charge the batteries.

[@EstrogenSingularity]

Lol I thought about that because I have a 30 amp 29.2v lithium ion phosphate battery charger that works on 120/240v AC and 12v inverters are a lot cheaper than victron 12/24 15 Orion's per watt

[@Falcon_Overland]

Have you done straight alternator charging with lifepo4 before? I’ve been trialling it and have produced 100kwh now over the past 6 months. Going strong still, I used to charge upto 80% then turn the alternator charging off and use my orian 30 amp dcdc to do the rest but now I just swap it over when I reach 100%. Factory 125 amp 80 series landcruiser alternator (30 years old) and 500 ah of lifepo4. Charging currents start at 125 amps when vehicle is cold and tapper down to 110 amps when hot. Once battery reaches 70% it starts to reduce the current but still getting 50 amps at 98%

[@EXPLORISTlife]

I have, yes, but I no longer recommend that as it's really hard on the alternator.

[@user-ne7qf7xm5m]

Hi Nate, my name is Otto. I have really enjoyed watching some of the videos you have posted with a vast amount of information. I see that someone else has posted a question regarding running his truck with dual alternators. Have you had the opportunities to work on the 2023 Ford Transit Trail? We have ordered one, due to be delivered in 10 to 12 months. I ordered with the Dual alternator which is an option. With the little information I was able to gather from the Ford Dealer and watching few of the feedback in the Ford Forum, it seems that the Trail package electrical system is wire in such a way that both alternators are charging a couple of AGM 100 Amp/hr batteries and they provide some additional 12V switches and a fuse panel. At first I was thinking of having the local Ford dealer disable the monitoring and control of the second alternator, the service writer said that it can be done. The more I have thought of this, I do not believe it is a good idea to have the 2nd alternator reprogram because this may affect some other parts of the system. I ordered the 2nd alternator because I had in mind to dedicate it to charge a couple of 100 Amp lithium batteries but I thing that this is going to require a bit more planning. Lots of questions are starting to popped in my head like, what is the proper to tap off these AGM batteries to dedicate the wiring to feed my lithium batteries and then how to isolate the starting batteries so that the solar panel only charges the camper side lithium batteries, etc., etc. Then design the electrical system to determine what will be all the Victron components needed (dc-dc) charger, inverters, Dist System, etc., etc. Have you had some insight on this new Camper VAN Trail Transit package?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey! Just wanted to follow up on this. We just released the alternator charging video that accompanies this tutorial. Here is the direct link to that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKalcn6KeKihqpY

[@nebulight]

I sort of disagree. Solar is amazing when it’s sunny. We did a two week road trip with almost zero sun the entire time. Without a second charge source we would have run out of battery power. Also I will say this even though I’m a huge fan of Victron their dc-dc chargers are severely lacking. No ve.direct, no dvcc, no external control with can battery, and low output. Until Victron dc-dc comes with a higher output with those options I’ve seriously been considering a new sterling (all red box) unit. Price is was lower per amp and go up to 200 amp (no van can handle that but the 120amp model would be close). Of course if Victron ever release a better unit I’d swap in a heartbeat. I went to intersolar in 2019 and was told better units with those features would be coming soon. I understand the pandemic hit but hopefully something better comes soon.

[@scotttannehill3533]

Am I missing your link? I did not see your link to your "Time to Charge a Battery Bank Calculator? I also did not find it on your website?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

www.explorist.life/time-to-charge-a-battery-bank-calculator/

[@bwarrior6340]

Alternator charging for my style of camping is a must and solar is bonus.

[@robbehr8806]

Great video! Most tow-vehicle-to-trailer electrical connectors and wiring are limited to 30 amps, but I don't trust them. If I were doing charging from a tow vehicle, I'd probably limit it to 24 amps or less flowing from the tow vehicle.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yeah, for that I usually recommend running a secondary connection w/ an anderson connector & 6ga wire so we can run a 30a charger (or 2ga w/ a 100A charger).

[@fratermus5502]

A guy on Will's DIY solar forum boosts voltage to 36v before running it through the 7pin and runs that into an MPPT in the trailer. Since he only has one controller it means he has to choose between solar and TV charging but it seems to work for him.

[@robbehr8806]

@@fratermus5502 , That's an electrically cool workaround, but it leaves a very high non-standard voltage at the connector, which would cause trouble if a normally configured trailer were attached.

[@RVRebelGirl]

Hi I am installing 375 watts of solar with a 300 ah Lithium battery on my Travel trailer. I pull it with my 2021 Transit 250 awd eco boost cargo van. I dont plan on charging via alternator but while towing and plugging in my 7 way plug will that affect my alternator?

[@robbehr8806]

@@RVRebelGirl, Generally speaking, there is a fuse that needs to be installed somewhere in the tow vehicle to provide power to the 12-volt pin on the trailer connector. So, your Transit may or may not be set up to actually provide power. For my part, I'm going to disconnect the power pin at my trailer's connector, so there is no chance of a problem.

[@themoabpearl5711]

I come up with 5.5 hours to charge ( two GC 270 amp hour 12V) batteries which may be worth the $250 Victron unit. Do you make a wiring diagram/kit for that scenario? I might wire it for my future self in case we go that route before I button up the walls.. We often drive that long to camp in hot places like Moab, and the generator we have is a beast.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

We do indeed have a Victron Orion wiring kit. It's actually shown in pretty much all of our diagrams. Here's that kit: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/victron-orion-wiring-kit/

[@LastNameTom]

Can I use different brands of lithium batteries in one system? We have 2 BattleBorn lithium batteries and looking to add 1 or two more. Can we save some money and add a renogy or other brand of lithium battery to our system or do they all need to be the same battery brand?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

They should all be the same.

[@ClarkyMalarky]

I wouldn’t have 10 batteries:) 3:25 ( truck camper ) I think alternator would suffice with 3-4 hrs driving per day, but I do just use a generator.

[@EphraimKiptiony]

Doesn't the battery connection sequence affect the charge cycle? i.e. parallel takes longer to charge than series.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Not really, no. That's only about watts in vs watts of capacity.

[@BostonClipper]

Not sure where to ask this question. Is there a channel for Victron marine applications like yours?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Lots of people use this channel for marine education. I'm not sure of a marine specific channel like this one, though.

[@BostonClipper]

​@@EXPLORISTlife Your channel is unique when I searched for good Victron information! Congratulations! I heard for example silver tinned copper wire is best practice for marine wiring. Don't know why or if true. I am sure best practices are the same with RV wiring 98% of the time. It is the other 2% that makes me nervous. If you had to wire a boat for whatever reason (family, friend) where would you turn for trusted marine wiring knowledge? Could you point me in a general direction? I understand if you don't have an answer. No problem.

[@BostonClipper]

@@EXPLORISTlife What is the text above?

[@pijanysamuraj]

hey, do you know if powerstation Aferiy P210 I can charge with my 1500W car inventer . like plug an inventer to car battery and then inventer to powerstation thru AC plug. I would be very thankful for any info

[@EXPLORISTlife]

That sounds like a good question to to ask Aferiy P210.

[@pijanysamuraj]

@@EXPLORISTlife you right!

[@redwood1957]

I went with a dc to dc charger. I was going to wait to see if I needed it. Then I said what the heck I got a renogy 20 amp dc to dc $100. Thanks

[@mausie1967]

Is it possible to put 2 orion dc to dc chargers in parallel?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yep!

[@jdcoverland365]

The calculator can be found where? Thanks

[@EXPLORISTlife]

www.explorist.life/time-to-charge-a-battery-bank-calculator/

[@wjhann4836]

Nate, I want to place some remarks: - before thinking of your options (charger, boost converter) there should be an investigation how much power an alternator is able to produce. Also take in consideration that the car itself may consume some of that capacity. Perhaps the rest is not worth the invest. - instead of your options I would think about an intelligent regulator (I know best Sterling) on the alternator - also in respect to a smelly😉 test from Victron on an alternator at 50% rpm. This is only possible, if both batteries (Car and Camper) are the same technology). - your suggestion about an additional alternator seems to be big - aren't there also smaller / cheaper? But I also would pretend on that an additional alternator has a modern intelligent regulator.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Both the buck-boost and the orion are both 'intelligent regulators'. A secondary alternator like I mentioned also has a 'smart/programmable' regulated output.

[@davidbelwood3683]

Hi victron Orion xs can you use none smart alternator

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yes

[@mikvice9784]

Please help...If you have no solar and are idle, eg no alternator power charging....could you not just put a 12v supply on the alternator side of your renogy 50a Dc to Dc charger to mimic the 12v supply from your car battery...this way you have a quality lithium phosphate charger within the Renogy Dc toDc charger...is this an idea...thanx in advance....

[@EXPLORISTlife]

That's not really how we design systems and that sounds like a bit of a Frankenstein project even if it would 'technically' work; so I can't vouch for it.

[@mikvice9784]

Thanx ...how can we then...have charged batteries without reconnecting a mains battery charger to the battery if no solar is present... I have all renogy gear with 2 x smart 100ampers. thanx again.@@EXPLORISTlife

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Not sure I follow; but all of the systems we build on this channel can charge from shore power, alternator, solar, or a generator.

[@anthonyrosa4388]

the same engine thats on a generator is also in a lawn mower and many other things as well

[@EvenaGirlCanDoIt]

How about using a Li-BIM 225 that battleborn sells?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

I'm not a fan of that unit, personally. You've got to use huge wire 1/0 or larger in most cases and the way it cycles on and off realistically only nets you the same as a 30A DC DC charger in most cases.

[@EvenaGirlCanDoIt]

@@EXPLORISTlife I called and asked them about that very thing. But they still recommended it for my application since I had 8 BB batteries. I had to use 2/0 wire. Said something about it being die to 8 batteries. Your thoughts on their reasoning?

[@vincecarluccio5018]

Another option is a lithium specific battery isolator such as the Li-BIM 225.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yeah, that's an option, but I generally never recommend that unit since it's not a voltage nor amperage regulated device.

[@vincecarluccio5018]

@@EXPLORISTlife yes. Good point.

[@fratermus5502]

@@EXPLORISTlife Many of use have found that moderate-size LiFePO4 banks (say ≤300Ah) charge directly from alternator *within voltage and current spec for both the Li and stock alternator* . Example: when I wore out my old FLA bank and went to LiFePO4 I assumed I'd need DC-DC to control current. I tested it on a whim and found the alt charged the lithium rather gently (0.32C when SoC is low). I installed a switch to disable the VSR when desired and it's been working great ever since. So instead of a $250-$2100 solution we could be talking about a $50 relay for campervan folk. Victron Cyrix-ct for example if we want to stay with Blue. Changes the economics quite a bit.

[@johnroyer3191]

@@fratermus5502 This intrigues me. I have an older van that I have installed 2 100Ah lithium batteries for the coach. It has an old sure power isolater and an emergency solenoid switch. Are you saying I could replace them with the Cyrix, because of the lower Ah? Worried about taxing my 130 amp alternator. Thanks!

[@fratermus5502]

@@johnroyer3191 It's possible/probable the *existing* setup will work. I have data on 10 installs where 200Ah of LFP is direct charged; the average highest current observed is 65.5A at low states of charge, with ~40A being more typical in middling SoC. Depending on where the alternator's voltage regulator is sensing battery voltage (after or before the isolator) the current could be lower: I=V/R, and the V would be lower in that case. Maybe a max around 45A. If it were my setup I'd: 1. ensure there was a fuse inline at a current I was comfortable with the alternator seeing 2. try it out with the bank nearer full charge (high SoC, hence low current acceptance), observing current. If it trips the fuse then the experiment is ended and some other charging method is required. Maybe a 40A DC-DC or something. 3. if it works, try with the bank at lower and lower SoC to see what maximal current will be. Caveat: if the bank is seeing full alternator voltage (ie, battery voltage sensing is done after the isolator) then the LFP would see that full voltage with no way to disconnect it. The lack of disconnect with diode isolators would be less of an issue if the bank is seeing [alternator voltage minus 0.7v]. A Cyrix-LI would also do the job with no voltage loss but it could be deactivated on demand. It could eliminate the existing emergency relay since that function is built into that device. If you do try direct-charging with the existing setup or cyrix please report back with your results for our greater collective understanding.

[@SonarGeek]

I completely disagree - Generators are not reliable, they're loud, and are being outlawed in some states. A high output alternator can work while your main engine is idling. A Balmar XT-250 will output over 100 Amps(at dwell temperature) with your main engine at idle. - I do have to disclose that I work at Balmar :)

[@dodgeplow]

Honda has several very small, reliable, quiet generators with a long record on the market.

[@patricktrier4503]

Alp propane is vey quiet as well and fuel efficient

[@coachgeo]

Don't many of the bigger rigs with solar have it set up to where BOTH solar and alt. are charging at same time when driving to their next destination?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Not simultaneously, no.

[@coachgeo]

@@EXPLORISTlife ... confused. If solar and alternator are both attached to a bank...... they charge... they dont care about each other. Only about voltage of bank. Granted one might auto shut down do to what it reads voltage at. example... AM solar FAQ statement "Do I have to shut off the charge controller when I connect to shore power? You can have multiple sources charging the same battery bank at the same time. Whether it is shore power, an alternator, a generator, solar panels, etc., it doesn’t matter. Connect them all. Run them all at the same time. No additional protections or switching of any sort are necessary. Chargers of all types are protected against reverse current flows and base their output on the voltage of the battery bank they are charging. When a battery is getting charged by any source, it’s voltage will go up proportional to the amount of current being fed onto that battery. In some situations where you have a particularly strong charging source, like an alternator or shore power, the high current fed onto batteries will drive the battery voltage up to the point that the solar charge controller thinks the battery is full. When that happens, the solar charge controller will temporarily stop charging until the voltage returns to a lower level."

[@EXPLORISTlife]

That's correct. They can all be connected at the same time, but they will not 'combine' their charging amperages. This is a feature that should be available in the next version of the Victrion Orion, but currently, one will overpower the other and the 'weaker' of the two will gate back as that FAQ describes.

[@coachgeo]

@@EXPLORISTlife appreciate it. Good info. mucho appreciate your discussing things with your viewers as well.

[@andrewkrenske7263]

Actually yes for most brands that have a dc-dc charger they will do a mix of solar and alternator when both are available and just one at a higher rate when it’s the only one available. Also most people setup seperate dc-dc and solar inputs which means they do combine their charging capacities

[@dennislittlefield]

Your primary customers are DIY van builders, but the majority of this video doesn’t really relate to them. Van builders want to camp off grid and it is helpful to use at least the 30 amp alternator charging when it isn’t sunny.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

My primary audience is people building diy campers, not just vans. Vans will need alternator charging 99.9% of the time.

[@CPRebels21]

So why are you not going to incorporate alternator charging in your system? I didn't see one of the four reasons in this video going against it. With that said, with 525 watts of solar panels and two 30 amp Orion chargers. After traveling in the southern US for three months with regular driving every other day the Orion chargers have produced half of the charge to our battery bank. Without the Orion chargers, we would not have been able to run our AC for weeks at a time because solar simply was not enough.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

We are absolutely going to be putting alternator charging in our Transit. I'm just waiting on the new Victron Orion later this year, adequate stock of the Buck Boost to become available, or for Nations Alternator to get back to me letting me know if their 2nd alternator replacement is a DIY friendly project.

[@CPRebels21]

@@EXPLORISTlife Got it. The beginning of your video made it seem you had changed your plan from what you originally said about putting a buck boost in.

[@fratermus5502]

Are we talking about more than one camper here? In the intro you say "later this year we are doing some electrical system upgrades that are NOT going to include alternator charging" but in a comment "we are absolutely going to be putting alternator charging in our Transit."

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yes. Multiple campers. We have 5 full camper electrical installs coming up later this year in addition to adding alternator charging to our Transit.

[@hgrenadegames]

I think it really depends on what vehicle, battery bank, and solar options that you have. And how you travel. I built my van to be lightweight (better mpg) and we like to be in any given place no more than 2 or 3 days. I have a 200ah system and could only fit 150w of solar on our molded fiberglass roof, so DC2DC makes a ton of sense. With a 50A charger it would only take 4 hours of driving to fill the batteries vs 16hrs from solar. I don't understand why more people don't take weight and load balancing into consideration. It doesn't get talked about enough. Your rig could stay out for weeks on end with tons of water and batteries but it will drive like a brick. No thanks : )

[@EXPLORISTlife]

For sure; and that's what I said. It's going to depend on what type of setup you've got going on. In a van; alternator charging will nearly always be needed.

[@hgrenadegames]

@@EXPLORISTlife Sorry I got that you were suggesting that it isn't needed. I love your videos and you have helped me a ton already!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks! Yeah; basically the only time I see alternator charging as not necessary is if you have 2000w of solar (big class A motorhomes or 40ft toyhaulers; and/or you have a built in generator.

[@dustindenton4529]

I used to have 1200 walts of solar on my promaster 6 200 walt panels I was going for more stealth with the smaller panels They are not that visible when looking at the van And 2 5kw batteries 24 volt server rack eg4 It worked fine as long as there were clear skys and i allways parked in the sun Now just one cloudy day and my batteries would be dead by the Next morning when running the ac Now i have 4 430 walt panels with about 1700 walts of solar and on cloudy days i can get enough to last through the day And on sunny summer days i can get 1500 walts easy and up to 1700 at least a few hours a day With the 1200 walt panels i was doing good to get 800 walts max and seldom got more And the panels are more efficient than the 200 walt rich solar panels On a cloudy day i was doing great to get over 200 walts during 11 to 3 And on sunny days can charge up my batteries and run the ac Still need to get 2 more batteries So i have enough to last multiple day's of cloudy weather Even with 1700 walts i still use my victron 12 to 24 volt battery charger when driving especially at night it will keep up with the ac as long as the ac only runs at a 50% duty cycle Normally i have an average of 300 walts 24 hours a day load It adds up fast and with electronics its great because of all the heat tho in the summer it makes my ac run a lot more Now if i cook more it goes up alot Try my best to only cook at night and in the morning to get the benefit of the extra heat

[@coachgeo]

input on 24v? who has any 24v options (not including secondary alternator)

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Victron has the Orion in a 24V version and the Victron Buck Boost is also 24V compatible.

[@ThomWalbranA1]

i averge over 80 hours a week traveling 12-14 hours a day if i could mount wind mill to my truck i would use that too,