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[@dbmiller5881]

well that is just awesome Andy! What a great build! I see lots of comments about "top speed" - but I really don't think that's the point at all. Getting above 40mph on a bicycle is always going to be sketchy at best. However, the acceleration, torque/pull, ability to climb steep terrain, all kinds of cool trail riding stuff... that's real fun of a setup like this, IMHO.

[@Brmbaz1]

Solder the copper to the strip first then spot weld too the battery.

[@billienomates1606]

Watching the intro I just got a sudden flash back to the Delorean in back to the future with the flame tracks coming off the wheels as it time travelled, nice one.

[@christopherroberts22]

Get yourself a DECENT Weller solder station ! Accurate temp tips ! I used a weller to do a whole 1.2kwh 14s HG2 lilo pack (before I bought the same spot welder as you have... ) .. The weller was so accurate and fast at getting the solder done !! Your beast is ok for power soldering but there's little controllable soldering accuracy ! ;) You spend shed loads on gear! I'm sure you can afford a couple hundred on a decent solder station ;) ... My HG2 pack is now 3 years in and still going strong ! Mountainbiking extreme tracks ! up steep lake district climbs ! its a beast !

[@rhodesianwojak2095]

Hmm

[@ferosofranek8817]

Hello, I have a mixed feelings when you soldering on these cells - one bad move with soldering iron or cable and your battery turn to fireworks. But I must say one thing: these nickel strips are more than sufficient (for 3cm length it has 1mohm and you have 3 of them parallel), for all 19 connections it is 7mohms - for 50Amps it adds only 0,3V drop. Adding more material will not help anything. Welded spot is more critical - make sure that is done properly. Overall voltage drop depends mainly on battery cell internal resistance, which makes the cell hot. For 10V drop and 50Amps current, you have roughly 500W turned to heat inside the heat insulated battery pack. Be careful, because excess temperature can blow off your battery. Sorry for my English, I am working on it.

[@Dana5775]

Fero Šofránek agreed the worst thing you could do to your brand new pack is expose it to that much heat! Heat is the number one enemy of these cells. There are many other alternatives.even a low voltage spot welder is better. Also that solder has a high failure potential and if the solder comes loose you could have denigration to neighboring cells!

[@Dana5775]

Jon Doe ,I have built dozens of battery packs starting as early as 2008. While it may not ruin the entire pack one cell out of the pack is all it takes. it is risky and will result in a higher percentage of cell failures or diminished capacity. Once one cell has lower capacity the BMS will charge the pack to its lowest common denominator ( Weakest cell) compromising the packs potential. Then after a number of charge and discharges the weak cell runs hotter the the others .the increased resistance stresses it further as it cannot keep up with the pack. And of course this failure can cause thermal run away of the entire pack. If I build packs for friends family or clients I do not want to take on this liability. I have been soldering, brazing and welding over 40 years. NOT ALL ATTEMPTS ARE SUCCESSFUL despite proper preparation. Second attempts surely cause damage! AS I SAID HEAT IS THE ENEMY THATS WHY TESLA HAS an ENGINEERED COOLING SYSTEM! I have had cells fail for no apparent reason at all. When Building a pack always order 5% more than you need and eliminate the weakest cells from the beginning by charging the individually to compare capacity and voltage. Eventually after building a number of packs I can make a pack from these discarded cells as long as they are approximately the same capacity. ( use smaller packs for auxiliaries, lights etc if you leave an accessory on it could drain your whole pack leaving you stranded.

[@ferosofranek8817]

@Jon Doe Are you responding to my comment? Because I never say anything about heat from his soldering iron - but I say it now. Li-ion battery cells 18650 without tabs can't be connected by soldering directly, because they can be damaged. Spot welding is commonly used for this purpose. And about that heat - you can clearly see, that he edit video at 3:41 (he probably burn his finger first time, so he cut this out). Metal is generally very good heat conductor and lead-free solder is fully melted above 250°C. Soldering process takes about 2-3 seconds - don't tell me that this cell is stone cold. And YES, 7mohms on battery internal connections is nothing to worry about, battery cells has much bigger internal resistance (about 30-50mohm/cell). And when I saw those connections between battery packs, I fell pity about these battery cells. Why he don't let nickel strips longer and solder on the end???

[@ferosofranek8817]

@Jon Doe ok, take it easy, you aren't his advocate (or are you???) If someone make video like this, must expect some "not very positive" reactions. This video - it is just not very good example how to do things - that's why I wrote comments. But I like his spirit and passion :)

[@Dana5775]

Jon Doe , I have built my own breadboards back in the early days. A battery management system (BMS) is any electronic system that manages a rechargeable battery (cell or battery pack), such as by protecting the battery from operating outside its safe operating area monitoring its state, calculating secondary data, reporting that data, controlling its environment, authenticating it and / or balancing it. A battery pack built together with a battery management system with an external communication data bus is a smart battery pack. A smart battery pack must be charged by a smart battery charger. A BMS may monitor the state of the battery as represented by various items, such as: Voltage: total voltage, voltages of individual cells, minimum and maximum cell voltage, or voltage of periodic taps Temperature: average temperature, coolant intake temperature, coolant output temperature, or temperatures of individual cells State of charge (SOC) or depth of discharge (DOD), to indicate the charge level of the battery State of health (SOH), a variously-defined measurement of the remaining capacity of the battery as % of the original capacity State of power (SOP), the amount of power available for a defined time interval given the current power usage, temperature and other conditions State of Safety (SOS) Coolant flow: for air or fluid cooled batteries Current: current in or out of the battery Thermal Management. Battery thermal management systems can be either passive or active, and the cooling medium can either be air, liquid, or some form of phase change. Air cooling is advantageous in its simplicity. Such systems can be passive, relying only on the convection of the surrounding air, or active, utilizing fans for airflow. Commercially, the Honda Insight and Toyota Prius both utilize active air cooling of their battery systems. The major disadvantage of air cooling is its inefficiency. Large amounts of power must used to operate the cooling mechanism, far more than active liquid cooling. The additional components of the cooling mechanism also add weight to the BMS, reducing the efficiency of batteries used for transportation. Liquid cooling has a higher natural cooling potential than air cooling as liquid coolants tend to have higher thermal conductivities than air. The batteries can either be directly submerged in the coolant or coolant can flow through the BMS without directly contacting the battery. Indirect cooling has the potential to create large thermal gradients across the BMS due to the increased length of the cooling channels. This can be reduced by pumping the coolant faster through the system, creating a tradeoff between pumping speed and thermal consistency.[3]

[@steve_main]

Soldering Tip: I know I mentioned this in your other video but please heat your wire up first.. the the wire melt the solder don't melt the solder onto the wire. This creates such a bad connection at 4:28 see how you heated up that wire and you can see that solder just get pulled in.. this is what you want. Always heat the wire and let the solder get melted from the heat on the wire!!

[@seeker7679]

I only started watching this channel today and you obviously know what you're doing but from my MTB days I would suggest only running components built for downhill biking. They're usually overbuilt which I think would be handy for that monster you've built! Keep up the good work!

[@andykirby]

Yeah you are right there, basically mostly everything is downhill stuff, the front forks are the strengthened ebike version of the Fox36, normally you’d use a double crown DH fork on a powerful ebike but I wanted to test these out on this build😁 I’ll be doing some more videos about this so stay tuned if you like this sort of stuff! Thanks for watching.

[@seeker7679]

Thanks for the response. Just subbed you so I'll be watching. Cheers!

[@andykirby]

Cool! Thanks for subbing😁

[@icemanknobby]

Not sure if this is possible but worth a try next time, if you can try and solder the copper cable onto the Pre-cut nickel strips, then just needs the nickel strips and pre-soldered copper wire to be spot welded to the terminals. JOB DONE:-)

[@solarfunction1847]

My battery pack I'm building once my spot welder arrives from Malectrics is going to be a 13s8p @ 3.35a x 8 = 48.1v / 26.8ah 1289.08 watt hr of 104x 3.35a cells for my mid drive motor. I got my new 700c wheels & 23c Thickslick Flat Guard tyres on my lightweight carbon bike, I'll only be using it on the street. My front chainwheel is a 53T & rear cassette is 9 speed 9 / 12 / 15 / x18 / x21 / 24 / 28 / 34 / 40 Tooth. Andy I remembered from my past competition cycling days why you are stripping cassettes all the time when you rip the throttle on your bike. You need to upgrade your chain to a better quality type such as a KMC X9E RB 9 SPEED RUST BUSTER HEAVY BIKE DUTY CHAIN 136 LINK GREY. Also you might want to look into buying this Molten Speed Wax - Chain Lubricant. What is happening to your chain is that it's stretching due to the 80 to 160 newton's force you are throwing on it & most normal chains are not up to handling an e-bike motor. Once the chain stretches it will then jump out of the cassette gear & go crunch very loudly. So every time you replace a cassette you should replace the chain as well. If you look after your chain then it should last 30000 km or more & the same with your cassette. So get the chain wax treatment, go online to find out how to clean your chain, apply the treatment & then after you ride you just rinse off your chain from any dirt etc & it will remain perfectly clean & lubricated. You can also go make your own chain lube with paraffin wax & paraffin lamp oil as well as Xylene to make up enough to have a squirty bottle to lube your chain every now & again to keep it running for 30000 kms or more.

[@k1ortia]

A man cave packed full of electrics and high voltage equipment with the potential to catch fire. Good job its made out of chip board and mdf... i love it

[@bramsoff-grid]

Got the same spotwelder. Hooked up on a car battery. Works great, I have over 1000 welds with it in 'auto mode'. I do solder the cables first and then spotweld them to the battery.

[@shifty277]

This is a batter process that you have described - Andy does not claim to be an expert battery pack builder but he has done a good enough job for his fun little screamer e-mtb. Specialized or Trek would want about £8000 for these types of bike and spec. No doubt he will improve his techniques the more packs he builds for hisself. Good comment 👍

[@technocrat7971]

If any one is planning on soldering a battery pack together or beefing up existing nickel strips get yourself some 5mm x 0.2mm Pre tinned copper Tabbing Bus Bar Wire/Ribbon. Its used for connecting solar cells but it's perfect for soldering battery packs it sticks so much easier than nickel strips or copper wire. You can find it on ebay for around £5 for 4 metres inc postage

[@JoLe1991]

solar panel bus bars are the best connectors for high drain batteries. they are 1mm2 (5x0.2mm) tin plated copper strips you can just fuse them on to tinned battery terminals and double or triple them up for high amperage. the tin/lead alloy also melts at a much lower temperature

[@HandyC]

How about, instead of the handlebar switch, you fit a hidden magnetic reed switch inside the bag / box somewhere and then just have a little magnet on your keyring.. Boom, hidden secure on off button, no keys required. ;)

[@sparkiekosten5902]

Now that's a idea I might "borrow" from you. I currently have to unzip my battery bag to turn my battery on and off!

[@emilen2]

I'm about to do this to my BBSHD tomorrow. I reckon you also need some iron to which the external magnet key can hold on to. I will try to see if mine can fit in the small Bafang control panel, and perhaps also make it impossible to use the + key without the magnet attached, so it essentially locks the bike in legal mode. An anti police switch if you will.

[@HandyC]

ECN you dont need to leave the magnet attached as its a momentary switch not a latching one but yea, I've often wondered how I could engineer a "it's 250w officer" mode with no button on show, I might be on to something here 🤣

[@MicRuLerZ]

@@sparkiekosten5902 rfid switch maybe

[@Aa-ron01]

Yanno i had my doubts with that tape on the last pack you did, but yanno what yourself and Tony V are on to something with it, its tensile strength and abrasion resistance is off the friggen charts, just finished building mine too, a 14s 9p pack made with 35e cells, my bike can now rip the streets for about 85-95km, and i mean Ripping, i had to get a new motor already, i started to pop spokes😂😂 I'll fix it up but im the meantime getting a 3kw motor, the 1.5kw was getting too much mechanical abuse, it's electrically fine though. And that bike is Unreal, its the kinda thing where a e enduro bike is fine but that power in a bicycle is something else👍🏼

[@andykirby]

Sounds like a lot of fun! Yeah the fibreglass tape is extremely strong, we used to use it on our FlightPower LiPo packs back in the RC days.

[@Aa-ron01]

@@andykirby that bike though holy shit, looking forward to finding out how you're gonna do the cassette, cassettes are the one thing thats holding me back from a mid drive, I'd go direct to the hub but i like the freedom you get with the gears to up some serious hills. Just realised too that the end of my first message i was talking about your own bike not mine👍🏼

[@andykirby]

Yeah I all honesty you don’t need gears with this much power if you find the sweet spot between acceleration and top speed. It’s difficult to get both as every motor/controller setup has a max RPM but you can probably do it with just 2 gears. Hub motors are a great all round solution and I love my 14kW hub bike but there’s something cool about how a mid drive feels. I think it’s the bikes balance and the fact the rear wheel isn’t heavy.

[@Narinjas]

I would recommend you place an aluminium bar between the batteries and figure out a place where to fit a few minutes to disperse the heat (sides to have protection and have the textile pouch sides take the heat when you are speeding)

[@BH4x0r]

that 35A cable is meant for permanent constant draw home/industrial installations, if you don't care for a tiny bit of extra heat (it has no insulation on it) even 2.5mm² would be fine for 35A thicker is always better obviously (less voltage sag and heat)

[@solarfunction1847]

8mm x 0.2 Nickel Strip is equal to 16 AWG or 15 AMP continuous @ 30 degrees Celsius, it will do much more amperage if you live in a cold climate & also if you are pumping heavy loads for short periods.

[@andykirby]

👍👍 so we are good for above 90A then! I’m happy!

[@solarfunction1847]

If you send me an email to [e-mail] I can send you the 2 jepg pictures that one is the equivalent wire guage ratings on nickel strip & the other is the amp ratings for awg wire.

[@leethomas1884]

Where should I get a nice carbon fiber frame? Tallboy what should I do either 1) convert to belt drive or 2) keep the chain. What do you think I'll be having to spend for mid-drive motor kit , battery and electronics. Where can I find a great frame on the cheap. I do want it to be as lite as possible so I can put it on a metro bus if need be.

[@Bikesandrones]

Awesome I'm impressed with the results andy mate defo looking at these cells for my next battery build 👍👍

[@scoobytrap]

I would not use solder for your connections, I would use ultrasonic welds. Ultrasonic welds are impervious to heat, more secure under vibration and probably have lower resistance...not sure about this last point.

[@billienomates1606]

Enjoyable vid, didn't understand much of what you said about the battery build although interesting. But what a battery pack you have created, impressive. Looking forward to the next vid.

[@rickb9238]

It would be nice to actually know the speed that you were able to obtain. Very nice work indeed.👍👍

[@flexo3333]

4kw mid drive should top out at about 75kph.

[@Mr.Reflex84]

fast enough lol very quick bike not just the speed its how it reaches it. looks so much fun in the woods

[@yakz9885]

Andy, i had that iron if you leave it on for too long the iron gets too hot and melts and the handle and its starts to move about which makes it hard to solder.

[@andykirby]

Haha! Yeah I read some reviews about this, it was on another type. This is an Antex, was yours? I left it on 1-2 hours and it was fine.

[@2kMario]

For soldering this thick cables you need at least 100Watts , 150Watts is more proper one . I am using 200Watts 8 years old soldering rod. And for good custom shape battery pack use 18650 Battery Spacer in that bag I can easy put 14s7p 52V 23Ah pack

[@VoodooDewey69]

This guy is the Dr. Frankenstein of e-bikes,insane .🚴🚴🚴🚴🚴🚲🚲🚴🚴🚲🚲🏁🏁

[@tyrone-tydavis5858]

First off, there's no such thing as too much power. 😱 You are wild. Love your channel.

[@DazzaDirect]

all hail the nutter with "insane mode" , stay safe Andy ;-]

[@BrunoPOWEEER]

Love your videos man... so much POWEEEEEEEERRR ohhh yeaahh!!!!

[@andykirby]

Hey man! Love your videos too man! We need to collab one day! So Much POWWWEEERRRRR!!!

[@FarmerFpv]

Bruno is a kook...

[@sageoz9886]

I suggest you get a Box Components 9 speed e-bike drivetrain. It's super tough and economical. $279US for the basic system and $379 for the nicer version.

[@marvinradimak9322]

You should try super capacitors

[@lawrencemunroe6798]

I want to build one ,makes my Zebra look slow ,although I am waiting to see what modifications I can make to my bike because I believe I have a good heavy duty frame .Naturally I will wear out the life cycle of my bike first before considering my options .Originally that is the way I should of gone .

[@sparkiekosten5902]

Looks like you hit the magic 4KW rating on that motor. I think 50MPH is plenty fast. but that acceleration must be insane. maybe you could get by by running a single sprocket at the rear. Kind of a waste though. you spend all that money on a mid drive and use it like a hub motor. Vortecks didn't upload a video last week. I hope he is ok. Hopefully he sees this video and helps you out with your request. Keep up the good work!

[@tabineshhtc]

Use soldering flux/paste as well.

[@XhristinaMacey]

Yes it cleans and makes a much better connection

[@LEO-xo9cz]

Get an old microwave and build a spot welder 😊

[@NaeMuckle]

Scratch up the surface before you solder too. It gives the solder something to grab.

[@Fungineers]

Nice build. Is this a 20S3P?

[@shifty277]

Yes it is. 60 cells. 20s3p

[@dtiydr]

Take some say 320 grit sandpaper on the surface of the place you would solder on and it will wet perfectly since there is a lot of oxides on them.

[@danielgreen4213]

Hi great video could you put up any live dash info on the screen in the video for us at all in your next video like live speed watts ect I think that would be a nice touch and would be interesting to see.

[@JoLe1991]

you actually don't need a spot welder to assemble a battery pack, especially one designed for high drain. All you need is a powerful soldering iron with a blunt tip (typically just 7mm copper bar), ideally with PWM so you can control the heat and prevent too much oxidation on the tip. Additionally you need (the most important!) phosphoric acid based soldering flux. this is typically sold for soldering stainless steel, or chrome/nickel plated steel. Since the flux is pretty corrosive, you need to apply as little as possible to the battery terminals/nickel strip. I do this with a cotton pad. If you add too much, there will be leftover phosphoric acid eating away the nickel and then the steel underneath. Next, instead of using nickel strips, I use solar panel bus bar which is a tinned copper strip. copper conducts electricity 4 times better than nickel, which means you can use 4 times less cross section area for the same current than with nickel. Also, once the battery terminal is tinned (very fast with the right flux, typically 1/3 second), you can just fuse the bus bar strip onto the terminal with next to no heat input into the battery (also because the tin on the busbar is a leaded tin with lower melting point than pure tin or tin with 3% copper). Busbar is typically available up to 8mm wide and 0.2mm thick, so you get 4 times the conductivity of your nickel strips for this battery build. .

[@TheGreatest1974]

Andy. You NEED to take commissions and start making these bikes for people. They’d sell like hot cakes you’d make a fortune. Most of us don’t understand all this electrical stuff. 😀

[@andykirby]

See my website 😁 www.cloudsto.com/ebikes

[@themagicillusions]

You’re supposed to route the brake hose on the inside of the fork legs or it might get damaged/crimped in case of a crash

[@jaytothesun99]

Phil Rossetti Do you really think this man fears damage?

[@SleepyBoBos]

I always wanted to ride 'in' my RC cars as a kid. This is what it must be like!

[@brokepilot6969]

I also recommend the Molicel P42A. 21700, 45a continuous, 4200mah. It is 2.5$ more than the Samsung cells but might be worth it.

[@Kenny-jg8ld]

The p42a has a max continuous amp of 30amps not 45

[@shifty277]

For capacity/power the Molicel p42 is the best cell on the market. Rion use them in their carbon fibre e-scooters. They have better curves at 20 amps and 30amp pulls and dont reach 60 degrees in open air as quick as the 40Ts. Mooch and another danish 18650 comparison site have thr graphs to measure the voltage drop and capacity at these currents.

[@jasonmilligan1726]

How much would it cost for a battery like that

[@skater4169]

Looks like a serious bit of kit Andy and that Icom 7100 on the bench ain’t bad ether.

[@YoYo-di4rl]

Where did u get that dirt bike like casing mate? Looks amazing

[@saruch1859]

Where can I buy this power switch link please

[@noorbabelli]

Kindly question dose this work with 12speed bicycle (marline 8 3rd gen ) 2023 ??

[@Strange_Brew]

I use pure silver in building my packs. Makes a difference. Cells seem to work in concert better.

[@Surfratglass]

Excited for the new tesla batteries to make their way to EBikes. One cell will be great as opposed to all these cells to have to solder. Good work! Excited to see the outcome.

[@philiprogers5772]

Could you do an off road hill climb? It would give us a better clue as to the power output.

[@michaelnotgivingyoumylastn3231]

53A at the minimum voltage of 72.2 (min voltage during max amp draw) gives 3889W the motor is pulling. It will not get higher than this, so it'll climb a hill, only slow down. low speed hill climb starting from a stop is what we need to see. need to see low end torque since it's electrically geared for speed being 72v

[@philiprogers5772]

@@michaelnotgivingyoumylastn3231 Thanks for the info. I have emailed Andy a few times to ask the weight of the bike. He hasn't ever got back to me. Do you have this information?

[@sim7775]

I think it is better to buy a proper electric bike for a layman than to build one.I helped one of my friends to buy an e-bike from a retailer website around $2000 + Free shipping.I was amazed by the build quality and the fact that it even after riding in wet offroad terrain for well over 100 miles the bike would hardly seem to lack power or have mechanical problems..emtb's technology has really revolutionized

[@andykirby]

It depends what you want. For sure you can bag a good deal on a standard ebike that will do the job for most people but if you want real performance then building one wins hand down and it really isn’t that difficult.

[@sim7775]

@@andykirby I agree with you,that's why i mentioned the word "layman".Most people without expertise would spend more than required and would find maintenance difficult.

[@MrRockstar1968]

Why are the batteries soldered in blocks of 6 and not all soldered together?

[@jonathanevans2677]

Brilliant keep up the good work Andy 👍😊

[@leonarderasmus]

I agree 100% with Bruno that that e-bike is very powerful,and to add from my side,is that it's really very "awesome" and smart built,and also from my side,is that i really do wish that i could built my 21 speed mountain bike also as fast,and how far i can ride on and off road,to also use for transport reasons. But unfortunately i really can't built my bike like that e-bike,beccause i unfortunately can't afford it,as much as i wich i could,and also unfortunately is that i can't do "diy" like that.

[@Joy-s3s6v]

What type of portable camera you're using when u were biking?

[@andykirby]

GoPro Hero 8 Black

[@mariuszanfir2298]

Is this with the original motor? The one that comes with the kit? If so, electric motors confuse me... How can it develop so much more torque without breaking?!

[@janwincote7260]

So what's the top speed atm and when are you going to release a vapour xtreme with 100mph+ top speed???

[@andykirby]

Top speed is somewhere around 50mph but the issue is you have to go through the gears and I don’t trust the small sprockets at these sort of loads. Basically I want to put a KTM type hub on there and run a motorcycle chain and sprockets but I’m not sure if it’s possible yet.

[@PiotrBagniewski]

What turned out to be for the max speed after all the mods?

[@Strange_Brew]

I use the same soldering iron (it’s for stained glass!) I use military silver wire and silver content solder. Silver is the key to my

[@DrDre-sy2kv]

is a charger limited by voktage of battery or Ampere hour of the battery to charge it completely ? i mean can a charger charge both 72v 40Ah and 72v 60 Ah battery ??? pls reply.

[@andykirby]

Yes a 72V charger can charge any capacity 72V battery but you need to be aware of the maximum recommended charge current for the particular battery.

[@tjacksondolph4026]

I can't be the only electric bike builder who dreams of making a carbon fiber electric flying wing with drone props..

[@michaelprice3031]

Yes!

[@djsbriscoe]

Where did you get the batteries from? And be careful with the chain and rear hub. The ratchet and pawl may not survive.

[@0utcastAussie]

Possibly here.. eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/21700-20700-size/samsung-inr21700-30t-3000mah-35a.html

[@shifty277]

Either 18650 UK wholesale or Fogstar wholesale are a good place to start if purchasing 50+ cells and being in the UK. Nkon are the next place if based in Europe as the comment above mentions.

[@texasspinesurgeon]

Do the hot part off the battery... then spot weld after?

[@jonneilsmyth9107]

was going to go with thease cells andy advised but am looking for a 74v 21A and 74v 30 A SET UP configuration as im alittle confused andy said them two packs its a 9AH abattery but can pull a fast 100 ah can anyone explain please as i dont want to waste money doing the wrong thing should i just phone or contact andy ??

[@nigeldolman954]

Why not solder on the bench and then weld onto batt when complete?

[@shifty277]

A lot of other comment s on here have mentioned this. Its an easier an risk free way of diy battery pack building. Im sure if Andy agrees and builds another pack in the future we will see him take this route.

[@kaybeane7196]

Wish you could build me one. Absolutely love it. Very nice job

[@waelkmail6133]

Can i add a front electric wheel to my assist rear e bike?

[@ukdnbmarsh]

i have been thinking about switching over from my motorbike to an Ebike for commuting to and from work, as these things cost a few quid to buy, is any kind of insurance required considering it will be left outside the workplace etc

[@MegaNayton]

You can get insurance but the only problem will be its not strictly legal as its over the 250w and can do more than 15mph so it's going to be a sticky situation when you come to claim for a theft or a crash

[@bobpatty2937]

Your enthusiasm has ruined me! The energy you put into your vids is inspiring. I believe my craving for torque was finally satisfied when I complimented your mid drive setup with a Qs 205#3 fed by a Sabo 72150. Two 72v30ah batteries in parallel feeds the monster. Keep up the good work!

[@AndrewStorlie]

what lipo spot welder is that!!! i need it

[@AndrewStorlie]

malectrics.eu/product/diy-arduino-battery-spot-welder-kit-v3-2-2-full-bundle-lipo-battery/ I FOUND IT!!!

[@battery_solar_ev]

goes to show when the battery is built for the load good things happen. You may be able to reduce the voltage drop a bit more by doubling the ground to the bms like it was to start with and double your output wire as well a 2 volt drop is not that bad but i think it could be bit less with a few more adjustments. If keeping the XT60 is necessary let that be your only weak link in the build rather than anything to do with the battery. Nice work by the way!

[@andykirby]

Thanks man, good points, the battery cable to the XT60 isn’t too big either, that could do with being doubled up too. Maybe later down the line I’ll use a bigger controller as this clearly isn’t stressing the motor or the battery... the drivetrain on the other hand 😂

[@yakz9885]

I put xt150 on everything.

[@andykirby]

Yeah I would if I could but the controller has an XT60 socket.

[@MegaNayton]

@@andykirby you can buy an Xt60 to xt90 connection I believe I've seen them on amazon as well as ebay rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F133041580319

[@jamiehammond7401]

Very nice off road machine.

[@Andaeldiabloitsomar]

Whats the max you would say you can get from that bafang ultra mid drive motor?

[@JoseRodriguez-en8bo]

Hey kirby,I I was thinking of buying that 8000W rear bike rim and a 72V battery and then the controller (I think it's called) and install it all on a regular mountain bike.....is it doable? And what do you think the rate of speed would be on a regular bike? ..please help me....

[@bpowell2502]

When do you start selling that samsung 21700 30T battery pack for the 60-80V range able to run like a 25 or 30AH capacity? I am doing a 2500-5000W rear-hub QS V3 conversion whenever you speak to your dudes in China and start selling them as a kit, on your cloudsto????

[@akaifriendly7209]

wow. you should send me a ike to test in my country. lots of hills and terrain in the Caribbean! interesting vid

[@olivertigno9026]

The BMS link must be wrong..I don't see any BMS listed on that site..

[@davidamazing1853]

Can you please tell me Where you purchase those cells and your BMS?

[@felixt.467]

yo i have got a cyclone 3kw ebike and it makes so much fun to ride its lighter and more powerful then any moped. it makes so much fun overtaking mopeds with this thing only porblem is that its illegal to ride it on the road.

[@JulzzCraw]

I recommend Headway LifoPo4 for battery - high discharge battery (150amp) easy to put together as they have screw top/bottom - no solder , no spot welding 15Ah 40152 Headway Battery

[@shaneellasdaicastrestorati3675]

Have you ever tried lipo battery out of laptops? I'm putting together a e scooter and Iv made two 4s packs but not yet tested them

[@grimcat27]

Switching to a internal rear hub will fix most problems. You can also switch to much heavier chain too.

[@shifty277]

Its the chain in this instance that needs upgrading. Its not made for the 160nm max power the motor can genrate and will stretch easily. He needs to upgrafe to a high end KMC e bike rated chain.

[@louloup4607]

some of you knows about theebiketor 3000w 72v kit ? is it good ? i'm looking for this kind of motorisation for my bike you think i can go on this ?

[@quimblyjones9767]

This is really cool! Glad I came across your channel

[@nttrung30]

This bike and company is phenomenal.

[@rasphans3689]

my Akku has 84 pieces 14 s 6p such cells.. weight.5 kg .1500 wh round about. .my BBSHD need this..

[@williamgoring7605]

I'll remember that you see a lot of guys on KZbin soldering them but there's one guy that does the spot weld I've watched so many of these videos cuz I'm researching which bike to buy I'm saving up but thanks for that tip no solder okay sounds good

[@highlandhillwalkin]

you need to get it out on the open road :) can you change the gears on full throttle ?

[@sbdr.1241]

Thats what i want to know...

[@andykirby]

You have to come off the throttle. The smaller sprockets will just bend at this sort of power, you need to keep to the large sprockets where there’s more engagement.

[@highlandhillwalkin]

@@andykirby I wonder if it's better if they were all big gears on the back say dropping a couple of teeth each cog? Who knows.... Looks exciting what your doing 👍

[@n.a.3734]

What motor , u not saying?!

[@andykirby]

Bafang M620

[@chrisw4248]

Hi Andy, have you considered fitting a Rohloff hub gear set up to this? Would be interesting too see how it deals with such power.. I'm sure Eric @ Luna Cycles built a powerful mid drive with one successfully. Love the channel btw, been a fan for some time now. All the best from Scotland : )

[@joshuahuang07]

i used to like the liitokala 26650 cells but 9v of sag is just insane. I'm doing 20s3p pulling 40a.

[@djshauny1264]

Hi mate. Im new to ebikes. I got a 1500w conversion kit from ebay. What would be the best battery to buy for the best range? Many thanks in advance. Cheers mate. :)

[@Paul-vl8zq]

Do you ever sell the bikes

[@warlockboyburns]

My shimano alphine 8 internal gear hub has served me well paired with my bafang bbs02

[@Dandraperuk]

Could this be used to charge via soLar and power a 2kw heater 🤔

[@andykirby]

Absolutely! Easily...It would last about 20 minutes at 2kW though!

[@TimpBizkit]

You might be better with a smaller chainring so your gears aren't overdrive, over overdrive and over over overdrive. Might be good on an economy 4 stroke to cruise at low rpm but electric motors like a lighter load.

[@riocole8940]

Why not solder to the nickle before spot welding to the battery?

[@lawyerengineer]

If you are using a capacitive discharge welder and solder is on the surface between one of the tips, an arc forms and you get nice explosion and burns thru. Not pleasant. Have to be really careful.

[@riocole8940]

lawyerengineer yes, I have experienced a small effect like that; I have a Kweld and have assemble just a few battery packs for myself. I wouldn’t recommend spot welding right on the solder. Rather, add the more conductive material with solder while making sure to leave space to spot weld to the cells. I would rather buy a mostly copper material designed with nickel tabs in the right spots to connect the cells. Soldering those monster bus bars created very high temps inside the batteries.

[@Therapistinthewhitehouse]

Why not make the pack triangular so it fits in the space better?

[@Dana5775]

Dump Chump yes you would think someone going to the trouble would have a better design sense “head shake on most of it”

[@peterdewey3395]

Hi Andy, where did you buy the cells from? Cheers

[@Luk1000slowracer]

Hi, ive a question, i have a 48v 10amh ebike battery with a BMS, ive come across an issue, ive checked some of the cells and they are around 3.1v and the rest are at 4.2v, my charger cuts out and doesnt charge every cell to full, im thinking my BMS has broken, also if the BMS is broken can i fix the problem by just simply replacing the BMS and then it will balanceall the cells? Thanks