How to replace a Water Pump and Timing Cover

In this video I tackle the Water Pump and Timing Cover on my 1966 Ford 289. I was having a small leak that I believe was either coming from the water pump gasket or the timing cover gasket. I figured that I'd replace both of these parts since I had to remove them to replace the gaskets.
Water Pump - GMB America # 125-1420 amzn.to/3J2pfNp
Water Pump to Timing Cover Gasket - Fel Pro # 35211 amzn.to/3cFy3wx
Timing Cover - Scott Drake # C4AZ-6019-B
Timing Cover Gasket Set - Fel Pro # TCS 45008 amzn.to/3z8PdtQ
Front Crank Seal - National Oil Seals # 2692 amzn.to/3cFUZMa
The car is a 1966 Mustang Fastback with a factory V8 and C4 transmission.
Shot with GoPro Hero 8 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 17.
Credit for the music in the video:
::::::::::::::::::::
Epidemic Sound
Try it today! www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
::::::::::::::::::::
#Mustang
#1966
#Fastback

[@jasonrodriguez5893]

Thank you so much for creating the fastener diagram- it saved my bacon! Had everything all laid out and nice, and then it fell off the workbench... the diagram at 11:44 saved my sanity!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Haha, yeah it's crazy how something so simple can improve your afternoon. :)

[@anthonyslagle3928]

Thank you for making such a great video especially for the front seal! Top notch!! I am now a subscriber!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Awesome, welcome to the club! :)

[@TDSG34]

First time watching your videos - it was super clear and had some really great tips - thanks for taking time to share !

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks for watching!

[@CartoonDrawingStudio]

Love All Your Videos!!! I have a 66 with a 289. All these are super helpful and inspirational. Keep up the great work. THANK YOU!!!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@Glens1965]

Very well done! Video/sound and editing is also #1.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Much appreciated! Trying to get a little better, but I have a long way to go. :)

[@tonydaroza1561]

Thanks so much for the video! I did this today and couldn't have completed it without watching this!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Fantastic! It's always great to hear that people are able to pull some value from my videos. :)

[@wolfthornhawkridge5705]

Excellent video, I’ve damaged many radiator fins over the years, never thought to leave the fan attached. 👍🏼

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks! I'm not convinced it's the only way to do it, but it worked and I didn't have any issues. :)

[@markwoten6679]

I must say this is probably one of the best videos I’ve seen especially dealing with the engine I got.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks!

[@TheRareCriticalThinker]

Thank you! Just got my dream car, a 1967 Mustang with the small block 289. For 8 grand! And it drives with body work done. Absolute steal. Also, the engine is a K-code. Got lucky there.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Good luck with your new project! 🙂

[@kdog622]

You rock as usual Andy. This is exactly what I needed to change out my water pump and radiator this week. The bolt size drawing is priceless!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Awesome, good luck, you've got this!

[@user-cw8ju6jz5u]

Broken bolt on water pump

[@nathannelson7020]

Great job! Your making great progress on the car! I'm currently stalled with mine, awaiting parts and some time off work

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks! I feel your pain on the waiting for parts thing. I'm just about to start making videos again as I too have been waiting for parts. This video was made a while back as I knew I would have some down time waiting for money and parts. :)

[@Titan-uy1qy]

Awesome. About to change my water pump as well. Notice mine is super rusted and leaks during cycle. Love watching your videos. Super informative. Keep up the good work. God bless. Peace

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks for the feedback and support! Good luck with your replacement, you've got this! :)

[@stanislavs9660]

Great work and video! Many thanks

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thank you for the support!! :)

[@hotbusa08]

Great video very informative thanks for sharing

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Glad it was helpful!

[@hotbusa08]

@@AndyKruseChannel it was very helpful I'm working on my 65 289 all top end work and I've looked for videos for help but nothing like yours they are very good and helpful been watching and saving them all morning great job and thanks once again 👍

[@jackinthebox6143]

Thats a lot of work for a little leak! Going that far I would change the dampener. They're not expensive but the rubber seal inside the damper is usually cracked and hard. Made a difference to mine runs much smoother with a new one.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Yeah, not a bad idea, but at this time in my build I had new engine plans so I didn't want to spend money on something that was only going to be temporary. :)

[@BaronVonOrvil]

Awesome videos👍🏻

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks 👍

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

I know what you mean with over tightening bolts. It sucks but it's way easy to do. Good work! Looks like you've been getting after it!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks! I'm just glad I was able to save that spot and not have it be one where I can't run a through-bolt in there. :)

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

@@AndyKruseChannel exactly! You lucked out there for sure.

[@leeread6757]

Getting ready to change the water pump on my 65 Falcon (289). It's the original never been off, anticipating the bolts will be a pain to get out without breaking off.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Good luck!!

[@leeread6757]

@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you

[@dangerman1969]

Love all the videos, big fan! 👏 I will be doing the same thing soon. I bought an edelbrock aluminum water pump. Was planning to re-use my same timing cover, but i like the nice aluminum one, will that same one you used work for my 1969 small block 302? And what bolts did you use, just normal stainless steel from the hardware store? Lock washers, regular washers, or no washers?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks for the support! Yes, the same timing cover will fit your engine. I recommend the cover I used in this video as it will make servicing the shaft seal a breeze if you ever need to do it down the road. You can re-use your OEM bolts, but if you want new bolts, check out the video I made where I was getting my new 347 ready for install. In that video I show the template I used for the bolts and what their sizes were.

[@TexarkanaPrepper]

Andy as I’ve said before I really really appreciate your videos. I trust them more than any that I see on KZbin. You are very helpful to me because I am kind of doing the same thing you are one part of the time making it better and better hopefully. Do you have a website or Facebook page? How can I kick in a little change to help you keep making videos?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I really appreciate the feedback. I have been doing the how-to type of videos for 2 years now, hoping that there's some value in them for others to work on their car. I wish I had the best info and the most knowledge on a topic, to give more credit to what I am doing, but sometimes I get it wrong. I try to highlight those times for two reasons. One, I don't want to send people down the wrong path on their car. And two, I feel it gives me some credit that I am willing to identify my mistakes and earn my viewer's trust. That being said, I'm still not the best source for Mustang and SBF videos. There's a massive community out there on KZbin and Forums with way more knowledge than I could hope to have. I pull from those sources when I can and try to do the best I can do. I don't have a webpage, Facebook group, or any kind of Patreon page. I feel silly even offering info like that as I'm just happy to have people watch my videos and ask questions. One subscriber did a "Super Thanks" here on KZbin and send $2 my way. It was very cool they did that, but I didn't have any way of thanking them. Maybe I should do another Thank You video and give them a shout out. I thought about doing some Merch, but it's a large financial commitment up front, and I'd rather have the money for car parts so I can make more videos for everyone. :)

[@TexarkanaPrepper]

Andy Kruse wow that’s cool. I’ve been working on 65s since 1968 when I got my first one. I like to look at your videos for new ideas, new ways of doing things such as modifications.

[@EVAN-yv6xe]

Andy I have a 1966 mustang 289 4 barrel but the front crank seal 2692 is too big for the housing and also seal is too large for the shaft coming out of the engine, any thoughts???

[@AndyKruseChannel]

The timing cover is the key. If the seal on the timing cover is installed from the back side, then you need the seal that goes with that cover. If the seal installs from the front, then you need the seal that goes with that timing cover. Unfortunately there different covers that came on these cars and different ones can be installed, making it difficult to know which seal needs to be purchased. The 2692 seal only works with the timing covers that are made for the seal to be installed from the front, like the new unit I installed in this video. By your comment, I'm guessing you have the timing cover where the seal is installed on the back side, meaning the water pump and timing cover need to come off the car. If this is the case, and you have the funds to make the change, I suggest getting the timing cover I install in this video. It makes servicing this seal down the road much easier. :)

[@justin1978]

Thank you for posting this! I’m getting ready to do this exact same job and this is super helpful. Question, do you have to take the oil pan off or just loosen some of the bolts?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

It depends on the type of oil pan gasket you have. If you have the traditional corks pieces with the rubber end caps, you can just remove the 4 bolts on the end. If you have a one-piece gasket like I have, you'll need to remove the oil pan and replace the gasket.

[@justin1978]

Thanks Andy, I just went back and watched the video over again and I saw the part where you went over my exact question 🤦🏻‍♂️Thanks for responding!

[@StankyPete9]

Yes! I've been needing this one! Oh just realized this too, not sure if you'll know or not, but I just got that same ignition coil you have. Do you know if you/the previous owner added one of the ballast resistors, or just kept the oe resistor wire? If you're not sure nbd, ik I'm off topic, just been trying to figure it out. Thanks for the video!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

The correct ohm rating of the Coil should be 1.5 ohms, as long as no one has removed or replaced the Resistor Wire or Ceramic Ballast Resistor with something else. On my car, I have the factory Resistor Wire in place (it's pink-ish, thick, and has a fabric insulator over it) and it attached to the red wire with the green stripe that is coming off the back of the ignition switch in the dash. But somewhere along the line someone replaced the coil with that MSD unit you see in my video, but they install the wrong coil as it has a 0.7 ohm resistance rating. I have since replaced that coil with the proper 1.5 ohm unit. In your car you'll want to look for a rectangular ceramic resistor that is wired in series with the red wire and green stripe that is going to your coil, or check behind the instrument cluster for that pink-ish thick resistor wire. If either of those are in place, you'll want a 1.5 ohm Coil.

[@StankyPete9]

@@AndyKruseChannel thank you so much for this! Had been thinking about going back to a standard coil, this msd is just becoming a headache. Pulled the gauge cluster and saw the pink wire. Just gonna back to a standard.

[@NightOwl444]

Hi ,how did you torque the harmonic balancer , without turning the engine over?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Take the starter out and put a pry bar on the flywheel teeth to hold everything in place.

[@jordanschultz2232]

Great video! Thankfully I'm functioning very well still but should I need to do a replace I'll be following your lead

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Awesome, hopefully there's enough info here for you to knock it out of the park! :)

[@jordanschultz2232]

@@AndyKruseChannel the use of the cardboard is a nice idea, I usually just do guess work and end up having too many "extra" pieces

[@AndyKruseChannel]

@@jordanschultz2232 Haha, I was always told that if you don't have extra parts when you're done, you did it wrong. :)

[@jordanschultz2232]

@@AndyKruseChannel definitely for LG washing machines or anything made in Taiwan but I was surprised by the volume of extra fasteners I ended up with after reassembling my grownup Lego

[@StankyPete9]

Doing the water pump in the morning, you've got me wanting to do the timing cover too! Only concern there is the harmonic balancer. Did you have to realign you timing marks when you put it back on, or does it only go on in the proper position?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Make it easy for yourself, set Cyl #1 to TDC and then pull the harmonic balancer. There's no reason why the crank would move during this service, and the balancer only goes on one way, so you should be good. The timing cover on your car is probably perfectly fine, but it's the gaskets that go out over time. If you ever have to do those gaskets, you have to pull the water pump to get to them, and you'll have already done that by this time tomorrow. You might as well get those time cover gaskets while you're in there. :)

[@StankyPete9]

@@AndyKruseChannel Awesome! Thanks for the tip! Was hoping it only went on one way. I think I'm reusing both the cover and the pump, my cooling was great so I don't necessarily wanna modify the system. But I'm positive the gasket between the pump and the cover is leaking, might as well do it right and get the gaskets behind the cover too! You sir are a godsend to this community!

[@StankyPete9]

@@AndyKruseChannel got everything removed today, thank you again. My power steering slowed me down a little, but was as easy as the alternator with a couple extra bolts! This video is indescribably helpful!

[@stuarttell7061]

Great video! It looks like I have coolant leaking around my timing cover on my 72 302. If I just pull the timing cover off and replace the cover to block gasket and use those oil pan "gasket pieces" that the timing cover kit gives you to seal the bottom, when you pull the timing cover off the front of the engine block, does old gasket and dirt debris drop inside the oil pan?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

It can, so you’d need to be careful. You can tape a garbage bag over the oil pan to catch any debris. The coolant leak is either from your thermostat housing or intake manifold gasket, I’d suggest fixing that before tackling the timing cover gasket, unless you’ve already done that. 🙂

[@stuarttell7061]

@AndyKruseChannel Hi Andy! Thank you so much for the recommendations. Unfortunately, it does seem to be coming from the timing cover to block gasket. In colder weather I can find a pool of Coolant on each side above where timing cover coolant passes are. After I soak it up, you can see it slowly leak out of that area. I did check out the thermostat housing cover, slid paper towels under it left it a few days and didn't seem to gather coolant there. It would be nice if that was the source though. It's been going on a while. During the summer, no leaks. But when the vehicle is stored for the winter, that area behind the timing cover starts leaking. I really appreciate your reply! Thank You!

[@joseespinoza93]

Got the same thing, slow leak from cover. Just need to pull my balance and then I can inspect and put a new gasket on

[@joseespinoza93]

Hi Andy, do I have to do anything special with the timing or harmonic if I just take off the cover, replace the gasket and don’t touch anything else? I turned the engine over a few times trying to get the balancer off.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Nothing special, but you'll need to get a "puller". If you don't have one, most auto parts stores can rent you one for fairly cheap. You've got this! :)

[@joseespinoza93]

@@AndyKruseChannel alright sweet I appreciate it, yeah I got the puller rented right now, just wanted to make sure I didn’t screw anything up since I couldn’t get the center bolt off initially and rotated it a couple times. Thanks for the reply! I got a 1971 v8 maverick and your videos are the main ones helping me out. After this gasket. All I got left is the suspension and the exhaust until I’ve replaced almost everything mechanically 💪🏼

[@scottlevy3274]

how did you torque down the damper bolt without the engine spinning? i'm doing this and stuck on that part. i also have an automatic.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

In this video I took the access cover off my C4 bellhousing and put a pry bar in the against the flex-plate teeth to keep the motor from spinning. It was not an ideal way to do this. I actually had to replace the front main seal not long after I did this timing cover (the video is now live on the channel) because of a leak, but this time I put two bolts in the harmonic balancer where the alternator pulley bolts in and used a pry bar to hold the crank still while I torqued that main bolt. I'm probably not describing it well, but you can see it in that Front Main Seal video. :)

[@scottlevy3274]

@@AndyKruseChannel that worked. thanks!

[@terrybyers8468]

Andy, where did you find that new timing cover? The timing cover gasket surface looks rough and I might have to replace . Thanks .

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I ordered it from Summit Racing, but lots of places sell it. The specific one I used is part number C4AZ-6019-B.

[@terrybyers8468]

@@AndyKruseChannel Thank You Andy .

[@markwoten6679]

No power steering on that. Where did u get the new replacement bolts for the water pump?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Purchased at the hardware store.

[@Juice9zero]

Hey one question can I do this without draining the oil?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Yes, but just be really careful you don't drop anything down inside the oil pan. When pulling the timing cover, there is some access to the oil pan from the front, so be sure nothing falls down there, or you'll have to drain the oil and pull the pan. But it can definitely be done without draining the oil. :)

[@raptorjesus99]

I'm just about to do this. So glad you have this video. Question: the timing chain cover bolts are torqued to inches, right? Second, the engine builder installed a gear drive instead of chain drive. I hate it. Would converting to chain be any issue? Also, how did you find top dead center to line it up before taking off the harmonic balancer?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

If you have torque specs and the numbers are small, it's in ft-lbs (like 9 or 11). If the numbers are large (like 50 or 70), then it's inch pounds. The benefit of the gear driven timing is the almost impossibility of the chain slipping or wearing down the sprocket teeth. However, gears can be noisy and they have less tolerance of parts not fitting perfectly. I'm not sure of any performance gains of either setup at the power levels you're probably at, but if there's something wrong and you're replacing parts, go with the parts you'd rather have. My balancer has a mark on it for TDC, so it's easy for me. I think the key slot on the crank also helps tell where TDC is located, but for timing purposes (ignition vs exhaust) you'll want to check where the distributor is pointing by pulling the cap. :)

[@raptorjesus99]

@@AndyKruseChannel I have a 347 stroker, but I can’t stand the gear whine. It’s that bad.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Then a dual roller chain is in your future! 347 you say? Care to share the specs? :)

[@bumpcity9794]

Just curious, how did u learn to do all this . You seem very hands on. Bad ass Mustang BTW.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Haha, Thanks!! First, I'm older than I look, so I've had a long time to learn this stuff over the years. Also, I like to check places like KZbin to see how someone else has done something, partially to make sure I'm doing it right, but also to see if there's a better way to do something. You'll find that over time things start to "make sense" when working on cars and some projects seem to come apart and go back together in a way that seems logical. Also, sometimes I just get lucky. :)

[@TexarkanaPrepper]

Andy, I have the earlier 65 style water pump with aluminum housing without backing plate that uses the timing cover for the back. Do you know if I can change it to the style you are using here?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Yes, you can change it to this style, it all fits the same. 😁

[@TexarkanaPrepper]

Andy Kruse mine doesn’t have the backing plate. Are you saying that I need to change everything out including the timing chain cover?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I think I see what you're saying now. Your timing cover is designed to work as the backing plate and the new water pumps (with the steel backing plate) may not fit. You'll need to match the correct pump to your timing cover. I think they changed in 1965, so you may have a 1964 timing cover and pump?

[@TexarkanaPrepper]

Andy Kruse, yes my car is a April 65 build with the original engine and the change came in June I believe. I was wondering if I change everything including the timing cover and the water pump will everything match up? If the bolt pattern and everything matches up and I can change out everything then the cooling should work fine. I was just picking your brain to see if that would work. In other words, did they change any of the bolt patterns Or are they identical?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Yes, the newer style timing cover and newer style water pump will bolt right up to the face of your motor. However, be mindful that some time covers don't have the dowels in the lower section that "centers" the timing cover on the block. If this is the case, you are left with allowing the crank seal to do the centering, so don't tighten down one bolt all the way on one side until you've had a chance to tight bolts on the other side of the timing cover. Sneak up on them so that the timing cover doesn't get move to one side or another relative to the seal and the crank. I believe I mention this in the video. If able, find the timing cover with the dowels, it will be easier. :)

[@bofa83]

Does the harmonic balancer need to be oriented a specific way, or can you just pop it in?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

The Balancer is already keyed to the correct position, so you just slap it on there. The important part is making sure you're installing the correct imbalance unit that matches your setup. Meaning, if you have a 28oz imbalance, then make sure your harmonic balancer also has a 28oz imbalance. :)

[@bofa83]

@@AndyKruseChannel good to know. Thank you.

[@LeeFred78]

Good job! One thing folks might want to consider is putting a sheet of cardboard over the engine side of the radiator if it's not going to be removed for this job. This will help protect it from getting banged into by tools and parts.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Great tip!

[@DriveBreakFixRepeat70]

Hey Andy where did you get the bolts for the water pump and cover?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I purchased from my local hardware store. They don't need to be Grade 8 bolts, you can easily use Grade 5 or something similar. I had looked into buying the ARP kit, but I have read that the supposed kit we need for the 289/302 does not include the correct length bolts. At 11:30 in the video, you can see the carboard cutout I made with all the bolts. It shows the length in inches for each bolt that I bought. :)

[@DriveBreakFixRepeat70]

@@AndyKruseChannel just got them all at the hardware store as well. Thank you sir!! I did the same for the ARP kit since I got the same cover.

[@ckelley63]

@@AndyKruseChannel Hey Andy those two bolts that hold the metal gasket to the pump don't interfere with anything do they when putting the pump back in place great vid by the way and thanks.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

@@ckelley63 Nope, but their length is critical. You also need to make sure that the heads are a lower style, meaning that if the head of the bolt is too tall, it will interfere with the timing cover. Hopefully you received those two fasteners with the pump. :)

[@ckelley63]

@@AndyKruseChannel Yes those two bolts were included Andy.

[@stonesofetown6767]

Man you should have put a speedy sleeve on that balancer. It looks ridge in the video no? Great job pointing out the balancer needs to centre the the seal most home mechanics would have just bolted it on then put the balancer on

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks! I ended up having to go back in and replace the seal not longer after I made this video. Actually, the seal might have been fine, but I definitely needed to clean up the snout on the balancer before reusing it. I made a video about it, and I haven't had any leaks since. :)

[@andrewmackhanlall6388]

Hello my name is ANDREW I’m working on my 65 Mustang to 289 I’m looking at your diagram for the water pump they are two missing bolts in the bottom I was wondering what’s your solution for that you did not indicate bolts on your diagram Thank you I watch all your videos they’re great

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I'm not sure which two bolts you are referring to. My email is in the info tab on my KZbin page if you want to send me an email with more description or a picture. :)

[@TheGordybombers]

I have an AC car with Power Steering..do you think I can get away without taking the rad out?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

That's tough to say, without seeing everything is routed and installed. Since you have more items in your engine bay and the coolant has to be drained anyway, it's probably going to be easier in the long run to just pull the Rad. :)

[@VegasRT500]

Hi, I think it should be said that the 2692 seal you installed in your new timing cover will not fit the old original timing cover. Not sure if it is because you used a aftermarket timing cover or if there is a model year difference with the timing covers.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Correct, I clarify that this timing cover is the kind where the seal is installed from the front. This timing cover is from later model 302s, so it accepts the new seal. :)

[@VegasRT500]

@@AndyKruseChannel Yep very different from any 351W or early model 302.

[@darrellanderson6650]

I have coolant accumulating in the spot. Did this fix the issue?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Yep. It’s almost always that gasket if you’re getting coolant there. 😁

[@darrellanderson6650]

@@AndyKruseChannel the one for the timing cover?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

@@darrellanderson6650 Sorry, I was thinking you were saying you are getting coolant accumulating on the timing cover, below the thermostat housing. If so, then it's using the thermostat gasket. Are you getting coolant pooling somewhere else?

[@darrellanderson6650]

@@AndyKruseChannel It is right above the fuel filter and behind the water pump. Two puddles. Thanks.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

@@darrellanderson6650 If it's on the driver's side, it's possible it's the thermostat housing, but more likely it's the intake manifold gasket. If you're careful, you can replace these gaskets without pulling the distributor, which ultimately makes it easier, especially if you're not comfortable resetting the timing for the engine. It's also possible the water pump gasket is leaking, but it's hard to tell without being there. :)

[@swooshdave]

A good tip is to remove the negative battery cable. I see that you undid the positive. Which mean if you were to somehow touch something to the positive terminal and anywhere on the car you’ll have a problem. Don’t ask me how I learned this lesson. 😜 I have a quick disconnect on my negative side. Quarter turn and I’ve isolated the battery.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Good tip!

[@swooshdave]

@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks for all you tips on the water pump and timing cover. I hope I don’t need to do either any time soon!

[@631Rogers]

Amazon - Battery post disconnect $6.50 works great. Nice job on video.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

@@631Rogers Thanks!! I'm not opposed to donations. :)

[@nickmcminn2137]

Could have swore u had aluminum rad and electric fan.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I did, on my previous '66 that I sold last year. This car is a new project that I picked up after I sold that Coupe. :)

[@jesseduke694]

OH TELL ME IT AINT SO!!! Man you put that water pump on without painting it!!! If i ever had a pet pieve it is new unpainted, raw cast iron engine parts being bolted on!!! Good video otherwise though. Thanks for sharing.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Next time I’ll give you a call and you can paint it for me. 😁

[@jesseduke694]

@@AndyKruseChannel Lol!