AR-15 - How To Install A Muzzle Device

[@matthewrentz3427]

drop a quarter in the center slot of a flash hider... helps with alignment.

[@c0mputer]

Ok Mr. “Money Bags”

[@---td4ff]

@@c0mputer seriously who has quarters theses days. Rich bastard

[@metaldude55ify]

@@---td4ff melted down all of mine for more bullets. Mr. Rentz must be one of those coin Priveledged fellas

[@---td4ff]

@@metaldude55ify goddamn 1% and their quarters 🤣

[@TDH75]

Is Aeroshell 33 really the best for this job? Wish I'd known that, I would've saved a tube back when I was lubing landing gear. Used to come home completely caked in that crap every night. There's gotta be an alternate high temp grease.

[@mikeingeorgia1]

Thanks for the video. I just did this for the first time tonight. When I initially hand tightened it, I needed about 270 deg of rotation to get it lined up correctly. I was skeptical as to whether I'd be able to get that much rotation out of the crush washer, but I did like you said, tighten, loosen, repeat, until it went around enough to line up properly. Some of the folks have asked how to secure the barrel in the vise. I used the Magpul BEV block and it worked quite well.

[@FishKepr]

270? Wow, I was nervous when I had to do one that had to go 180.

[@Mr2ndAmendment]

Great advice and video. A tip that would help make it as exact as possible is something I learned when putting barrels on Garand actions. Ensure the upper is perfectly level in the vice. Take a long and straight rod or dowel (a thin, squared-off piece of wood works best) and lay it on the upper receiver T-rail so that the ends of the stick extend out perpendicular to the barrel. Then take a slender rod or stick (a Popsicle stick works, but the longer the better) and slide the stick through the lateral flash hider ports in the A2 birdcage. Stare at the rifle from the muzzle end and look to ensure the two sticks are parallel and tighten as needed to make them exactly parallel. You should approach the final tightness before using this technique, leaving a slight amount of tightening left to achieve a perfect parallel result with the guiding sticks. As you said in the video, you don't want to loosen anything to get the right alignment, you should tighten to get there and then stop when it's good. That technique works when you really have to make sure it's exact, as with the M1 Garand where the front sight attaches to the barrel on the gas cylinder, so the threaded barrel going into the receiver needs to be as exact as possible. For the A2 birdcage, this kind of precision is not a necessity like it is on a Garand, but it's a technique to use if you really want to make sure it's the best you can make it. Great video, thanks!

[@LuigiLong]

I am in the process of removing a stock birdcage-style flash hider to replace it with a muzzle compensator. This video really has helped me to understand the basics of getting the new one lined up correctly. The forwards, backwards, forwards process is going to be a great help. Thank you!

[@PromNightDumpsterBaby420]

How do you like it over the birdcage? Does it make a huge difference?

[@RyeOnHam]

I have always tightened it so that the centerline of the barrel is between two slots with the extra slot on the right. I'm right-handed and this pushes the barrel slightly to the left, compensating for the tendency of the rifle to pull to the right. It also ensures that the flash from the two slots straddles the sight line so you don't look directly at the flash.

[@zeruulln]

WARNING: anyone doing this, you MUST lock your barrel from turning while doing this. otherwise you can end up turning your barrel, breaking the pin holding it place and knocking your barrel out of alignment which will almost certainly end in a catastrophic failure. Not fun when your bcg releases at 60,000 PSI. You won't have a good time.

[@JenkinsStevenD]

Dilly dilly. Geiselle sells a reaction rod for both AR-15 and AR-10s. Brownells has their own version that is cheaper too.

[@mclerj0577]

Even though this is an old video- I have to say that I look for your vids when I have questions on this stuff. Great job- thanks for the help sir.

[@asdfgoogle]

Excellent video. Perfect camera location, straight to the point, 4 min long!

[@jeff-ph9bc]

Excellent advice about tightening to time, not loosening! Thanks for the great video.

[@kc5hgv]

On the threads I use the Permatex Nickel Eaze Anti Seize product for high heat conditions.

[@TDH75]

Is that an actual gunsmith recommendation? Also does it matter if its copper and not nickel? Those were interchangeable in a lot of applications. I always wondered about dissimilar metal corrosion with both though.

[@matttracy6077]

I go to this video every time I install a flash hider because I can never remember which direction the washer goes on!

[@cboli9418]

Me to! It helps if you have 7 beers!😊

[@TheDariusBlaze]

@@cboli9418 😂 love that. Getting my first AR tmmr

[@nonyabiz2777]

Twords the shooter is how i remember it.

[@craigz74]

Funny! Lol.. i just took mine off for the first time and when i was putting the washer back on i was like, shit! Lol.. which way did this go..😁😁

[@jessecarpenter6434]

Thank you so much. Just got a muzzle brake for a Remington 700 308 and I have never installed a brake before. Not to mention it’s my first rifle that’s not a youth size

[@janwilliams178]

Thanks NSZ for the tightening tips and crush washer orientation my flash hider installation went well.

[@vinnier6]

Would have been worth noting how you had your barrel locked down

[@ChairmanDDD]

geissele reaction rod

[@kevinwatkins8411]

v mann between my legs was just fine lol. Not too hard

[@takumif7056]

Kevin Watkins my ass between the legs shit was harder than a b

[@alant5757]

There are several and some will lock like the one from RealAvid.com called LUGLOK for $79 which will probably be the one I will get since you can lock your barrel in multiple angles. Just saw a video about about several tools from them to work on AR’s and was impressed. Just getting into building my first AR and I know some people will probably just laugh and say you don’t need all that stuff but I like to work in a real clean environment and I’m pretty sure this won’t be the only AR I will ever build. I hear it’s contagious and you can’t stop. I hope so....

[@zeruulln]

This is so important, easy to knock your barrel out of alignment and get a catastrophic failure if you install a muzzle device without stopping the barrel from turning. Not fun when your bcg releases at 60,000 PSI. You won't have a good time. This video is dangerous not mentioning to lock down the barrel at all.

[@ChrisUrsiny]

excellent informative video sir, i myself was a bit scared to attempt to remove and install a muzzle device on my new ar-15 upper, after watching your video this job appears to be ok for the noob such as my self.

[@Conky88]

Use a 3/4 wrench. A long one. If you don’t have a vice how I do it is put it on a wood bench sit on the gun and twist it on

[@coachingaddiction9756]

Thanks man. I spilt a crush washer trying to put on a muzzle device and I only had one more so I wanted to know how much to torque it but then I realized I didn't have the right tools anyways but it was still a helpful video so thanks for that. I never thought of backing it off and then tightening it in again a few times.

[@saxmusicmail]

For flash hiders, compensators, muzzle brakes (not "break"), you must secure the barrel. DO NOT USE an action block for this. If you do, the barrel will twist in the receiver, and the index pin on top of the barrel will dig into the index slot in the receiver and the front sight base will be canted to the shooter's left. By the same token, when mounting a barrel to the receiver, DO NOT USE barrel vise jaws. When the barrel nut is tightened the receiver will be twisted against the barrel's index pin and the front sight base will be canted to to the shooter's right. Always use vise jaws for muzzle devices, and always use an action block for mounting barrels.

[@colterdoerr6227]

an action block (midwest) acts as an extension of the barrel, does it not? As it fits into the barrel extension itself, so be being held in the vise it really acts like a barrel vise (with torque stress on the barrel extension teeth)? This is how it was explained to me by the people at brownells. Im still trying understanding it all. so you're saying to buy a vise that clamps over the outside of the barrel instead? (whereas the midwest action block locks into the inside). So really its inside vs outside clamping?

[@saxmusicmail]

@@colterdoerr6227 A "reaction rod" fits into the barrel extension. Most action blocks I have seen (and I own two different ones) do not. The device I was talking about is barrel vise jaws. They come as two L cross section vise jaws that have cutouts to fit small dia. and large dia. barrels. These are used to clamp on to the barrel itself. This way any torque applied to the muzzle device is isolated only to itself and the barrel. It can't twist the barrel in the receiver or unscrew the extension. I've done this for more than 30 years. One last tip... when using an action block, remember to use the receiver insert or a bolt carrier inside the receiver so that you do not bend the sides of the receiver.

[@bolriconyc3795]

I am about to install a VG6 GAMMA 762 on my Aero M5E1. I bought a VISM AR-10/LR-308 Upper Receiver Block for the install of this brake.... do you think this is safe for my install?

[@saxmusicmail]

@@bolriconyc3795 No. You will likely twist the barrel in the receiver. You must use a barrel vise.

[@lungbuster27]

I thought the reason the bottom of muzzle devices were solid or without ports/slots was so the gas being forced up and out keeps the barrel from rising? Gas being forced down besides kicking up sand/dirt/debris while in a prone position would push the up, correct?

[@lilfuneral6596]

Casey G yeah that's rigjt

[@gotindrachenhart]

It would be counter balanced with the top port if there was a port facing the ground. So, the net effect is equal and opposite forces. Having no port on the downward face really helps with debris and a little with rise.

[@colby7625]

I assume aero shell is the same thing as anti seize compound.

[@BADD1ONE]

Yep. Auto zone 2$.

[@Grizzleback07]

@@BADD1ONE I would rather use silver anti-seize that can handle high temps like you find on automotive.

[@coppertopv365]

Muzzle loader CVA anti seize stick.

[@TDH75]

Aeroshell 33 is made for aircraft. Primarily the landing gear. Its high temp grease but I'm not sure its rated for the heat levels generated when shooting. I would think theres better compounds you cound use like some kind if antilock that would work with fine threads and prevent corrosion.

[@MaXGTS1]

Be aware the Hammerhead wrench will not fit over a KAK Shockwave tube. I found out the hard way. Many people use the KAK tube along with the Blade on their AR pistol. I emailed the wrench company letting them know they should have this limitation on their website but they have not responded.

[@yongchoi8213]

It is not for preventing dust fly around. The gas push back down the barrel for staying on target.

[@cyberdaemon]

In AK4 (Swedish G3 clone), all you need is hands. You can remove and install the damn thing without use of a single tool!

[@michaelh3992]

Funny that the video by Brownell's suggests that the crush washer be installed the opposite way. It probably really doesn't matter.

[@kdpsengine5]

Shame on AIM sports they refused to pay for shipment regarding their defective wrench. I even spoke to the general manager he mentioned how their policy is no different than any other company. On the other hand Wheeler called me and said, you have our old style wrench, we are going to ship you free of charge our new wrench that has the comp tool. Wheeler has a customer for life. AIM sports needs to learn one principle do to others as you would have them do to you.

[@pwrplnt1975]

Thanks! I've been building and collecting firearms for many years and you can always learn a new trick, I do it a bit differently, however I think your way is easier. Thanks! Great Videos!!

[@nsz85]

ColdDead Hands You are welcome :)

[@Sammitch]

Great now I can paint my flash hider orange

[@donremley6565]

+Samuel Mitchell Why? Do you want the cops to think you have an air soft or toy?

[@Sammitch]

+Don Remley yeah that was the joke. I am not really doing that

[@donremley6565]

Glad to hear that!!

[@badazz99]

😂...

[@twhite7900]

Sammitch thanks for this, exactly the information and instruction I was looking for. Well delivered

[@robertdenson488]

i love your vids!!! I thought that the unported side of the flash suppressor faced down to prevent "down gassing" to decrease muzzle climb? ("up gassing" forces the muzzle of the weapon downward as the bullet passes the end of the flash suppressor). keep up the good work!!

[@nsz85]

robert denson The ports face up and the closed side faces down.

[@robertdenson488]

Thanks. Loved the video.trying to do a build now. Need all the help/advice I can get.

[@Homesickfobbit]

robert denson The A1 flash hider was slotted in all directions and blew too much dust in the air while prone. The A2 flash hider had only 5 ports facing up and to the side to fix that problem. Flash hiders have little compensating effect.

[@wolf14900]

Lol looking forward to it. When i do get an ar some day im sure i will be coming to channel a lot.

[@radforduniversity6424]

This is one of those things where, you only need to see it once to know how to do it.....but I wanna know how to do it the right way, haha

[@warnerparedes7629]

Righty loosey, lefty tighty. Nice wrench.

[@lkazanov]

very nice...I just go for it until indexed with a 3/4" wrench. That crush washer will require significant torque. The Geissele reaction rod is invaluable for this. Also I use permatex anti-seize. There are no dissimilar metals here, just steel on steel. I saw a video where a fellow uses a torque wrench for this. Made me chuckle.

[@davidsonpedro1494]

Can you also use anti seize on your barrel nut?

[@ybrik5937]

Yes you could use it. That's what I used to install a new barrel and put it on the threads of the upper and barrel nut.

[@davidsonpedro1494]

ybrik5 thanks.

[@BADD1ONE]

That tool is for noobs. Use a damn wrench. Those universal jobbers are trash

[@kingjeremysircornwell7847]

quits sound signature at long rang, heightened sound signature for operator. 180-360 degrees depending on brake used

[@kingjeremysircornwell7847]

my has left handed threads. bought it from eastern Europe

[@MyHollowpoint]

Thanks for the demo. I'll be having to do just that shortly.

[@davethegreat5944]

Lol I had mine upside down. Probably wasn't helping with the recoil too much haha

[@croe5357]

It's not as much for recoil mitigation as it is to keep dust from flying up while firing in the prone position.

[@gunzrloaded]

Thanks 4 the informative video nsz85,I was looking for proper flash suppressor alignment. Cheers

[@Satchmoeddie]

I use nickel antiseize compound because AerosSell SUCKS! Valvoline's top tier Palladium car grease is better than AeroShell 33. AerosHell would melt in an E-Z Bake Oven, but nickel antiseize will not melt until your barrel has warped. It's fail temp is north o f2100 degrees F.

[@JenkinsStevenD]

Aeroshell never really 'dries' so it never really 'melts' either. Pulled off many barrels and it has always been as "liquidy" as the day it was applied except around the crusty carbonized edges.

[@rodpruitt8926]

Wow! that was complicated. I how I can remember it all. I wonder if a regular wrench would work.

[@lokes77]

Yes a 3/4" wrench works

[@TDH75]

The tightening and loosening was a good point. Something I would do naturally but I've been a mechanic for over 20 years. Not so sure about Aeroshell 33 though. It wasn't made for guns it's used on aircraft landing gear. It is high heat grease but not something we would use in extreme high heat applications like ignitor threads. That would call for high temp antiseize compound.

[@fppro1679]

Nice video. By the way, I have a Ruger America and I'm putting one on. Do I have to take it out of the stock to do it?

[@nicolasdiaz6839]

Thanks needed a quick reference vid and I cam across you're very helpful

[@jasoar1563]

thanks for that mate, i just bought one of these and was wondering how to get it to line up :)

[@m.d.reynolds4022]

🏆🍻🍻🍻. Your work has been the only one that I have seen to confirm that you were timed correctly.

[@SHWELL11]

Another informative video!

[@m1nhtyfresh659]

Man you are on a roll today! Thanks!

[@nsz85]

I do everything as hard as I can ;)

[@jefffawver3389]

Thank you for sharing this information helped a lot.

[@binzsta86]

All this time I was confused why it didn't want to get into the right position. Thanks a lot.

[@nsz85]

You're very welcome.

[@jorgegil3770]

Question how did you hold the barrel a special tool ??? Thank you

[@marshallcahill4958]

If you decide to get a suppressor, would you replace the crush washer with shims. Thanks

[@GoTorino]

As Wayne and Garth would say... "EXTREME CLOSEUP! Whoa!"

[@MidFiMan]

nsz85 I guess the same method for a KX3 knock-off? I've got the thing put on using using the long bar part of a Allen wrench through the slot in the muzzle device. The slot is straight up and down (right where I want it) with quite a bit of torque, but the crush washer isn't "crushed." Does it have to collapse to have a successful install?

[@neanderthor66]

I like that multi-tool. I made the mistake of getting the tapco one that doesn't actually fit over the castle nut. I am trying to mention that in every video that is on the subject, so hopefully people will stop buying that garbage, and tapco actually has to fix it. Stupid wrench make Thor angry.

[@mikeingeorgia1]

I've been using a Tapco wrench for a few years quite successfully. Maybe your's is somehow out of spec. I'd contact their customer service and see if they'll swap it out.

[@sro2405]

Great video. Just what I needed to know. Thanks!

[@michaelw.urbansr.8617]

hey bro i dont mean to be a ball busterbut i was watching the brownell's video on this and their gun guy said the beveled edge of the crush washer should face the muzzle device?I watched that part several times to make sure i was right about his video before coming here?I am about to change out a few of my own from flash hiders to comps because my state laws require it :>/ so i need to know which of your guys are right?lol im a greeny so idk?

[@TheWhmaxwell]

Thanks man... I wondered how that worked... now I give it a shot :)

[@nsz85]

Great! I hope this video helped :)

[@clloydhi]

Ebay also has Aeroshell in small quanities.

[@nohcho84]

That one thing th AK has on AR, much easier muzzle device installation

[@heilhonkler6981]

Take a wrench to a flash hider is not complicated

[@nohcho84]

@@heilhonkler6981 it is kind of, you have to use a crush washer, have to time it and all that trash

[@d_skrilla6479]

Lol i laughed when he said a little aeroshell i also came from the barrel install vid

[@f150sbcglobal]

What about using a lock nut?

[@GunBigotHater]

Thank you, so very much! That did the trick!

[@sk8punk318]

Way easier than I thought

[@robertryan2222]

How are you holding the barrel, in a vice? Is there any special rig for using a vice?

[@jeffreyjohn1691]

Thanks for sharing. Very informative. I have a question. Do they make a AR15 A2 birdcage flash hider specifically for a .22LR. Can I use a 223/556 caliber flash hider?

[@johniler1695]

Aero shell is 3$ on eBay shipped even sell trigger group grease same price

[@exime9500]

Woohoo it worked! Thank you.

[@miophx8283]

Great video!

[@gregpierquet5818]

"Pistol slash SBR". It's either one or the other, can't be both.

[@007NunyaBizNess]

Thanks, I had to check the direction of a crush washer.

[@Xandrosi]

Over-tightened my VG6 Epsilon a hair and discovered the hard way that this affects targeting. Want to back off a bit, but am now concerned that this will free up the tension on the crush washer too much.

[@jonnyt16]

What do you mean over-tightening affects "targeting"? And how do you know if you over tightened it or not? Thanks.

[@Xandrosi]

Just looking at the VG6, it's a tad too tight based on the different holes. Think of it this way. The VG6 is designed to compensate for muzzle rise, so directs exhaust force downward. As long as this is aligned with muzzle rise, then it's working as intended. However, because that force down is no longer aligned with muzzle rise, it's pushing a tad off to the right side.

[@JenkinsStevenD]

@@Xandrosi Sounds like you have it on upside down. The exhaust should be expelled upwards which pushes the end of your barrel downwards (opposite the direction of kick). Since you likely have it on wrong (I can't see it, maybe you have it on right) you can reinstall it using a new crush washer (single use item) and some shims to get the proper alignment. Midway and Brownells both sell shim kits exactly for that purpose and they aren't too expensive either.

[@Xandrosi]

@@JenkinsStevenD It's not upside down. Instead, it's just not aligned well upwards.

[@yubidubi]

Great video you’re making America great again!!!!!!!!!

[@diogenes505]

Does the crush washer become swagged to the barrel or can it be removed and replaced for another muzzle device. I have a muzzle brake that appears to need to rotate almost a full turn. Will a crush washer crush that much?

[@humblehunk9022]

I had to go almost a full rotation, so instead of reefing on my barrel, I very carefully ground the washer down on the side of my bench grinder. I removed enough material so I only had to tighten about 30° Works great

[@corporalflores]

Thank you very much, I needed this vid.

[@seawater777]

Very helpful, thank you

[@johnsemashkewich3962]

right handed threads or left hand (Clock wise or counterclockwise)

[@fieldday500]

I know this is way old, but it's standard righty-tighty lefty-loosey

[@ScuffedEngineer]

+John Semashkewich Things made in America, right, things imported from Europe, left generally.

[@fieldday500]

Shadow Um. Okay? The videos about AR15's...

[@SoA-Horseman]

Having an issue installing an ATI Steel Shark on my M&P15 Sport ii... the holes on top aren't facing up as they should .. :(

[@andrewsquire9892]

Good info with the Arms Guide articles too. I'm installing a standard A2 flash supressor on a 9 mm AR carbine barrel. The A2 needs to be timed about 210 degrees--I know max 45 degrees per tightening. Any comment on how to secure it in the vice? Wood or leather got it. Any concern about deforming the barrel? I reckon not since it is steel. Thanks for the help.

[@Chayonray]

Giselle reaction rod works great. A little pricey but worth the expense. I have it between two pieces of wood in a 3 inch vice. The vice needs to be tightened significantly to avoid the rod/upper assembly from moving but that was more of an issue with the barrel install than what I anticipate with the muzzle device as no torquing is needed and the loosen/tighten methodology NZ85 mentions will be used.

[@andrewsquire9892]

Thanks! I ended up using a wood vice at a local school- oops, sorry about that indention, teacher. That'll sand out right? Anyway, you are right. Wood is good in metal vice. It's good to go now. Happy shooting!

[@Chayonray]

Thank you sire. Yes, mine also installed with no problem at all. It was one of the easiest parts of this first time build for me. Happy shooting!

[@jackface2499]

New to attaching muzzle devices, but is it really necessary to use the greese?

[@billyd7882]

That guy likes Aeroshell. Makes me wonder what else it gets slathered on.

[@DarkWarrior076]

Can you use a normal wrench on replacing the muzzle device?

[@bench175]

yes, just has to fit

[@JenkinsStevenD]

Torque wrench and crow's foot is the best way. YOU CAN OVER-TORQUE STEEL THREADS. (from experience)

[@amateurastronaut5006]

Reaper shell? Is that the same thing as copper antisieze?

[@robertr298]

Thanks

[@sebastienceniceros3145]

Idk if anyone is still paying attention to this but what was that stuff he put on the threads? Anti-seize or locktite or something else?

[@mikeingeorgia1]

sebastien ceniceros , it’s called Aero Shell

[@311hitwall]

Is it a bad idea to have a muzzle brake on a .223 AR-15? The SA Saints Edge has one and people complain about how loud it is.

[@sherman4195]

Great video! Quick question - can you use an anti-seize compound/ grease as opposed to this Aero Shell grease?

[@ryankozak6874]

Ive used lithium grease, works good as well

[@colt.4534]

Between 3:15 and 3:23 it looks like there is a shim there? Did you use a shim kit?

[@nsz85]

+threehundredw inmag No.

[@talinra3160]

best vid on instal thx

[@ULTRAMAGA2A777]

New subscriber 👍🏽

[@ericsimmons2758]

The only thing one really needs to know is how do you get the old crush washer off.

[@JenkinsStevenD]

Well...it has been 2 years. Did you get the old one off? You might need to use a heat gun. You could take your rifle to the range with you and get the vice/reaction rod all set up and send 30 rounds through it, clear it, move it to the vice/reaction rod and then torque it too. Should be pretty hot. I prefer that method over standing in my garage with a heat gun.

[@undisputed1one]

What's a good way to fasten down the firearm to it doesn't twist with the wrench

[@Ballsinspector633]

Put the upper in an upper vise block and put said upper and block into a vise

[@joevandivner9704]

So do I not need to be at 30ft/lbs? If I go to 30 it’s not timed correct but if I go a little less it’s ok

[@weasle48]

no matter how hard i try to get with in at least half a turn before i have to start using a wrench i can't get there. i get stuck at 3/4 of a turn before i need a wrench is that much ok? i see here you were just under half a turn until it was set.

[@actinganimal885]

That’s a flash hider compensator

[@doubletap3524]

Is it true that the crush washer is good for one use only

[@doubletap3524]

Cuz I tightened it then loosened it up and then tightened it again and it was loose. Lol

[@JenkinsStevenD]

@@doubletap3524 Crush washer is good for one use.

[@mitchschutter4302]

Can someone explain how the whole tightening/loosening works? Is it flexing the crush washer and making it easier to tighten? And also, nsz85, were you using a barrel vise?

[@bsracer85]

I think he is crushing the crush washer a little at a time.

[@jmicm13]

Or stretching the threads

[@josephgrande5759]

it is a combination of both.

[@money9953]

thats why a crush washer is best , it crushes with force a bit at a time ..

[@money9953]

no threads are being streched at all that i am awahere of. good question

[@TDH75]

He didn't show how he was bracing the barrel. Does the barrel need to be braced independently from the upper reciever?

[@TDH75]

@Patrick Faricy I don't have much experience with ARs so I don't like doing work without making sure I'm not going to screw something up. I've had the vice block for awhile now. Still concerns me that some part of the barrel is going to get damaged so I used a strap wrench bracing in the opposite direction of torque. I didn't have any anti seize. Do you think that's necessary? I really don't understand why someone would use Aeroshell 33. I would think that a rifle barrel gets much hotter than what that is rated for. That grease is for aircraft landing gear which gets hot but not rifle barrel hot.

[@corona73]

Good stuff. Thanks.

[@nsz85]

+corona73 You are welcome :)

[@irafowlerjr.7492]

thanks so much, big help.

[@Eternaldrkmako]

nice, can you do one on the match style breaks , im having issues trying to install mine without damaging it

[@nsz85]

The only other one I have is my BattleComp 1.0 and I installed it the exact same way.

[@Eternaldrkmako]

interesting

[@nicolasbarrios1566]

Thanks!

[@benconnolly5741]

do you need a crush washer to install a muzzle brake?

[@Allaahesuno]

But how do you clamp the barrel?