ARC'TERYX How to build a V-Thread Anchor on an ice climb

Arc'teryx athlete Roger Strong gives a great demo of how to build a V-Thread anchor, and demonstrates the surprising strength of this efficient rappel system.
Find out more about Roger Strong on his Arc'teryx page:
arcteryx.com/Athlete.aspx?Roge...

[@alejoenhispania]

Very good demo. About a week ago, we had to go down a short 45º ice slope in the Alps. In our path we noticed that someone did a V-thread in the ice - but we ignored it. Then a bit further down one of the team lost traction and almost took all of us down with him. In the end we had to use that same V-thread plus an ice screw to get the team secured. It would had been a good fall down the sloped ice (no danger of death). Lesson: Do not ignore the signals and always play safe.

[@GoProBros1]

if ice fractures horizontally then why are you not making your abalakovs holes vertically to each other?

[@andersonboy620]

that makes sense!

[@maturtlelaza]

my guess is that puts tension strictly on the bridging piece of ice where as the horizontal gets a frictional force in the 90 degree bend coming out of the ice

[@samk7717]

maturtlelaza that makes sense but I saw in a video how Elizabeth Revol did it the v thread vertically

[@virgill6881]

@@samk7717 I think a Vertical 'V' Thread is called an 'A' Thread

[@timhuang2879]

very useful video,checking how strong is the ice hole for me

[@Mateyhv1]

@cbcbd Exactly, you are correct, static load means a load on the binner/slings. The load is much harder compared to a dinamic load in a fall.

[@alfieboy4022]

I've always found that WI is *much* 'harder' and more textured so it's harder to quickly make a v-thread. Alpine ice tends to be more aerated and softer so screws drive in more quickly. Admittedly, it takes more judgement.

[@cbcbd]

@marchanselman I know what you are saying but what I think he is saying is that the system he is tied into is static - sling/biner - unlike loading it while tied into a climbing rope.

[@pasimon]

wow!

[@pitot1988]

fair enough

[@marchanselman]

I think you are confusing the terms static and dynamic.

[@ry13an]

Im sure if he thought it was going to brake he would have left that test out . Its not the 1st time hes made V threads its safe to say .

[@TimberTramp]

Inches please! 😂😂

[@maineoutdoorsman677]

250lbs falling 10" ft strait down lot more force then two weekend warriors tired from walking up hill 200 yards hill come .

[@guillaumeallardviau4479]

That is an anchor rappel, not meant for lead fall. The average maximale load of a rappel is 700 pounds for an 180 pounds average person