BOLTR: Costco Boost Pack | Stupid Design

[@ThisOldTony]

$5 says there's pocket lint packed down hard at the bottom of your phone usb! I'll shut up and go back to watching now.

[@aaronhall7740]

Every mechanic/tradies/engineers issue, greatest day when I cleaned it properly haha

[@yes7420]

10$ says there’s grease in there

[@el737rs]

That’s where the paperclip pokes

[@adamm2634]

My favorite is the staple magnetized into one of the speaker holes.

[@mikehealy74]

I came here to say the same. I've found that the punched metal sim card removers are quite good for getting the sh*te out of there.

[@curtisbell2872]

Alternative title: Canadian homeless man desecrates Costco products violently while yelling gibberish. And I want more.

[@dolfandon7124]

A grown-up date with babydoll

[@dolfandon7124]

@@user-ut9ln4vd5m Them carts at tha Costca are deeeeeeecent!

[@mr_tom_1_0]

Unboxing with Extreme Prejudice

[@garrettgiuffre8505]

Wait Canadians aren't all homeless?

[@snapperhead273]

he dropped it

[@BrentKung89]

Electronics nerd here, the 4 mosfets are arranged to act as a solid state relay

[@orikolp9379]

Also, MOSFETs are not NPN and PNP (these are Bipolar Junction Transistor types). Instead, they are N-channel and P-channel.

[@DiegoAlvarez-lf8us]

@@orikolp9379 I know some of those words

[@bobedwards8896]

care to explain how this works?

[@orikolp9379]

@@bobedwards8896 Well, I'd love to, but it is a bit long... Simply put, the bipolar transistor has three semiconductors directly attached to each other (they can be either PNP - positively doped silicon, negatively doped silicon and positively doped silicon - or vise versa (NPN)). This device operates by applying low voltage signal between two adjacent parts, which controls the current flow through the non-adjacent parts by varying the voltage (and its corresponding electric field). A MOSFET is a different device altogether. It consists of a two negatively doped regions, distanced from each other, both inside a positively doped semiconductor (for n-channel MOSFET) and a metallic layer above it all, separated by an oxidized silicon layer (which is an insulator). When a voltage is applied bewteen the metallic layer and one of the negatively doped regions, a conductive channel is formed between the negatively doped region, and the device can conduct current. When the voltage is removed from the matallic layer (which is aptly named Gate), the device stops conducting. I hope this is clear enough... you can find a ton of information about this all over thr internet.

[@altimmons]

@@orikolp9379 I think he was talking about the 4 MOSFETs relay. Effectively the mosfets and bipolar are the same just with different eh what’s the word I’m looking for alpha, beta? R_f? The application factor. Dealing with the specifics of how it’s built- the modern ones have moved past the traditional FOS layout anyway. In the 70s the difference was stark. But not as much now.

[@mikeselectricstuff]

That looks like an LCD, not an OLED. You can tell as the background isn't completely black when something is displayed. Also from the thickness of the assembly.

[@willgilligan7605]

also from what's stamped on the back of the PCB

[@AWaifuInVR]

I was looking for this comment. Definitely not OLED

[@ioppdal]

also oled is expensive

[@flipschwipp6572]

thought the same. OLED would have a way better contrast ratio and next to no glow on the off pixels. Has the white on black color scheme to look like OLED though.

[@joehancuff6310]

Also the board it's mounted on says LCD on it. I was screaming at my TV!

[@pele994]

"Just be careful with the gasoline" says the man who stores it in the hay shed

[@RaggedsEdge]

Here’s a pro tip (just the tip). If you keep it in your cold vehicle, store it with a copy of the 1994 sports illustrated swimsuit issue. That way when you need to jump start your car, just stick it in your pants first, open and peruse the beauty’s of old, and in a couple of minutes you and your starter pack will be toasty warm and ready to jump several things.

[@steviebee1989]

Lol well done.

[@RaggedsEdge]

@@paisleyprince5280 well I can tell you it was this 13 year olds dream team.

[@lukeoforcas]

Those are just handy enough to a professional roadside assistance individual, like myself, to put enough power into a modern vehicle to get it into neutral and release the idiotic electric parking brake.

[@Willg95]

My favorite question. Do you want me to put it in neutral

[@lukeoforcas]

And they have all the pointers on how to do your job

[@themotivatedone812]

Hey I just wanted to say, thank you for your content. As a young troubled engineer I can't tell you how much joy your content has brought me this last year. Thank you.

[@eriks6693]

I kinda undstood how lithium batteries worked before, but you did a great job explaining it in a way even the back of the class could understand. I appreciate it!

[@sproutpits]

I have a similar model from Amazon called the Thor 1000. Looks like an identical design. I managed to start the 4-cyl Isuzu pickup engine in my truck with it. Had a completely dead battery. The temperature was temperate, and it BARELY got it started. I think you're probably right about the cold and big trucks.

[@GhostRyderFPV]

Good point. I also expected The Apocalypse to be... More energetic, maybe?

[@henrymulvenna1748]

It's not over

[@RedBeardWalking]

Not with with a bang, but a whimper

[@pauliej4208]

@@csn583 One side riots, the other protests. Which is which depends on how sophisticated is one's knowledge of history.

[@maxpower4781]

" I like how robust it feels in the hand" I've heard that before

[@herculesrockafeller]

Hey, great name!

[@notajp]

I’ve thought that many times in regards to my other half’s lady pillows......

[@robertspengler9485]

That's what she said!

[@robertspengler9485]

To me!😅

[@nate8088]

As someone who supports hundreds of devices using micro-usb, usb-C and lighting port, I can say without a doubt that USB-C is by far the most robust. If I had a dime for every time an end user decided that micro-usb was reversible and just jammed the thing in backwards, rendering the device completely unusable, I"d be a rich man. And lightning port can just go and eat a d**k.

[@GarwoodNick]

Preach brother!

[@Ari--d]

ive never seen lightning cable break, but it just sucks that the data rate is slow and the price to use it is sky high.

[@andrewkennedy9704]

Never had a usb-c cable last.

[@gillesbaudeweyns6802]

Can second that, have owned quite a few devices with both and the Micro's always gave in before the 2YO mark, none of my Type-C devices have shown any issues so far, some are more than 3 years old now. There's a good chance AVE's pixel's port is either right full of pocket lint or has a manufacturing defect.

[@panzerveps]

The only downside with USB-C is that they are some proper dust collectors. I need to take out my industrial grade tooth pick once a month to clean my phone...

[@bnasty267]

I've used a similar device to start a car once and my lawn tractor 3 times. Each time I've been surprised it works, and it barely cranks before the thing times out, but it worked. I have zero faith in it, but I have to say, if you're sitting with a dead battery, it's better than nothing.

[@EscapeMCP]

Yup, and if it doesn't immediately start, trickle charging before you retry is the way to go. One of these should get you going again. If it doesn't, you've always got the USB to charge your dead phone to call for help.

[@Livlifetaistdeth]

This is KZbin as it was intended.

[@timperry6948]

"You wanna go to Costco?" At that moment you realized you are an old married couple!

[@denisohbrien]

ohnestly the type c is robust imho, and i work in a garage. I do have to flick the crap out of it with a slither of plastic every few months, but the connector itself, imho is pretty stout.

[@jkbrown5496]

I had ones of those, early model before the dongle on the clamps. Worked okay, but when I went to get it out of the truck once, the battery was swollen and the case open. Still worked to start a Mazda Miata with a deceased battery several times. So I took some of the charge off. The rigged a power resistor to drain it out in the yard before disposal. Don't know if the Li battery would have done unpleasant things in my truck eventually, but carrying them in a hot car doesn't seem good for them either. They work, but they aren't really great stored in freezing or boiling vehicles, apparently.

[@jayk7557]

Right now in fort mcmurray it's -39 without wind. Warmed me up to hear him acknowledge my suffering

[@remodz6385]

I’ve got an older (5-6 year old) jumper very similar to this in looks and size. I’ve only ever charged it 2-3x over the years and it stays in my trunk at 95-100% charged for years without use. It’s got me out of a jam a few times and let others use it numerous times. It never fails. Started diesels, v8s and all sorts of things. Love it. It has the flashing bits as well except it has red and blue you can turn on and looks like the popo

[@90msg90]

The cutout is usually time based and it starts counting when you plug it in. More refined plugs have a button on it that closes the curcuit. Btw. you can skip the button pressing on the device itself. The only thing between the battery and the clamps is that blinking MOSFETy safety thing. It can output 300+A (apparently your tester didn't want that many), and that is exactly why there's a time-based cutout here. The only thing preventing all the angry pixies running out of the Li-Po to your car battery is the voltage drop on those Shotky's and the Ohm's Law. But it starts a 5 L Jeep no problem.

[@tuber4tuber]

A 5L Jeep at what outdoor temperature? That's the trick. Please specify Fahrenheit or Celsius units.

[@snigwithasword1284]

Exarcktly. Those resistive testers are great for telling you if a battery is hooped but they do NOT test the ultimate load they can put out!

[@erichagedorn6830]

@@tuber4tuber I've started my 4.2L v8 with one in below freezing many times.

[@Dreddy72]

i thought boost chargers like this were also usually designed to detect a resistive load and shut down, as to not burn up the starter that it is assuming its incapable of getting spun up.

[@robertkb64]

I’ve been using the prior version for a few years, and there’s a trick to using them to jump start in the cold: you. Just pull the battery bank out from where it’s been bouncing around the back of your truck, stuff it inside your jacket, and wait 15 minutes to bring it up to body temperature. You should also turn on the flashlight, as the battery will have enough current to turn it on while also decreasing internal resistance.

[@PandaMan02]

that gizmo on the cables detects shorts and weird connections, it most likely saw the load tester and said "oh no you don't!"

[@wolfmanrebel874]

Take note kids this is the definition of language arts.

[@TDG2654]

That screen is not OLED, it says LCD on the damn PCB! Edit: and the fact that is clearly IS back-lit

[@Ellipsis780]

The display did look kinda too thick to be OLED. And that's the same board as the switch. I think they may have had an OLED originally with a thinner board and the switch was closer to the case. Then they "made it better".

[@bryanjk]

It has some crazy backlight bleed on the edges as well.

[@TDG2654]

@@bryanjk yeah, forgot to mention that one

[@nrdesign1991]

I saw it was LCD the moment it powered up. The shimmering gray backlight gives it away.

[@John_Ridley]

You can also tell because there's a backlight. That means just plain old LCD.

[@bdykes7316]

I rigged up a jumper pack up from four 9Ah Lipo cells and a cut up set of 4AWG jumper cables. The pack started my 4 cylinder with the main lead acid battery completely disconnected after the jumper pack and engine sat overnight at -10F. The jumper pack now lives in my trunk. It would have been easier and safer to buy one, but it works for me.

[@wayne-oo]

Got one of those , used it twice in -20F and it starts my Dodge pickup fine !!

[@NayNayzor]

Shots fired!

[@car0lm1k3]

i am legitimately going to raise my son on these videos. The knowledge density is about half an rch from collapsing in on itself.

[@mikeceresini2364]

I like that you can access high current leads to the battery directly without opening the device. Just replace that safety connector and you can use the battery for anything.

[@davidpelayo]

You can find that connector online it's an EC5 connector

[@bassmith448bassist5]

I have a similar device to yours. Different packaging but same device. I have been able to start up to 4 dead vehicles without having to charge it with fresh pixies. And, yes. I too have to disconnect the jump leads to reset that rediculose mousefart pack. I run a small garage and use it a lot. I have even started a big diesel truck with it.

[@guardsmanom134]

"Cold as a bronze bedet" me butthole puckered! 😂😂😂

[@HewroPreez]

We have these at the body shop I work at, and they work surprisingly well during the dead of winter; will start just about any vehicle. Only drawback is you get about 5 go's before its goosed

[@JeremyMcMillan]

4:38 Try getting into the sewing room, and pick the compressed lint out of the bottom of your Pixel phone's USB-C jack alternating a needle and a can of air, careful not to offend the tongue or any of its precious contacts. I'd bet you get no satisfying click when you plug it in, and also no contact open circuit no charging because. Usually you put your phone in your pants pocket, but when you do, you're also putting your pants pocket in your phone :).

[@ajfurnari2448]

This, 100%. Pocket Lint, Canaderps legal self-defense weapon is causing the issue

[@TikiTDO]

Huh, good advice right thar. Getting a satisfying click again. Thanks.

[@DFliyerz]

Exactly what happened with my phone, before cleaning out the lint my usb cable would constantly fall out of the phone

[@jtomi003]

I agree. My Pixel had the same issue. I used a plastic toothpick to clean mine out. I didn't want to mess with the pixies in the battery by shorting the contacts.

[@ZekeGraal]

Flat plastic toothpick is the best method I've found!

[@patricksnyder8798]

Project Farm did a test on a bunch of those style jump boxes, and most of them you do indeed connect and let charge for a little bit before cranking.

[@thenuggetningas]

We actually have one of these at my work for employees who need a jump. I think it's a older model. I've used it to jump my '69 cadillac in November and some trucks too. It hasn't let me down yet.

[@papagunit]

Used it to jump semi trucks and my Prius.

[@jz4436]

I had the previous version of the TypeS from Costco. From a full charge it would drain flat in about a week just sitting in my truck. I called the company and they said it was a “safety feature” and that it was recommended that I charge it “frequently”. I would be curious to see if this new version holds a charge while sitting in the shop.

[@zuesmondo1]

From my experience with one of those it only works if the car just needs a little jump. We keep one in the shop to help members. Pain in the ass. Full dead, never works. But, if you just left the lights on while you shop. By the time you get it figured out how to set it up the main battery will charge up a bit and it will give you the boost you need.

[@nate8088]

I don't know about this particular brand, but the one I've got, I had my car full dead to the point that the doors wouldn't unlock via the remote. No lights. And a similar one of these things got it running after two turns of the key (so to speak, it's a push button).

[@kain0m]

@@nate8088 Yeah, as long as the battery in the vehicle isn't completely dead, one of these will do the trick. It trickles some current into the battery, and then the battery supplies the current to start the engine.

[@toddlaplanteVT85]

@@kain0m That's not what he just stated lol. He just said he used one and his battery was dead. D-E-A-D ie: no juice left. YMMV of corse

[@societyz3r0]

I have taught so many people about tool construction from these videos. Always a joy to watch!!

[@AaronCook83]

That's a gamble on 95% of the customers never even trying to use the thing.

[@renderwood]

You have that in your car for years, and then when you finally would need it, either it's not charged anymore, or the output power would not just be enough as seen here. I recall when it was -28C outside it took at least 20 seconds to start a Lada.

[@snapperhead273]

Ed Zachary

[@ThirdeyedeasInc]

You nailed everything on its failure. I took back two, thinking the first one was just a bad unit. Wouldn't stay on long enough to start anything. I have a HarborFright one I've used for about 4 years without fail when needed. This Costco one was rated for more amps so I fell for it... twice. So I have sence just bought another HarborFright to stick in the truck...

[@1RAH]

You most likely have smoo stuck in your type c port. Take a needle and scrape it out, I've had to do it to all of my type c phones and it's always worked

[@KineticPlague]

I live in Grand Forks, ND and I just boosted my suburban 1500 with my Audew boost pack. Current temp is -11. I intentionally left it out in the truck to see if it would work in the cold since there are so many concerns with the li-ion not doing so well. Happy to say it worked like a charm. I will probably carry it into work with me as much as I can, but very happy to know that it will work even if I forget it in the truck.

[@gearloose703]

That stove reminds me of a shop where I bought my first lathe and mill after the owned passed away. A low shed with an overgrown home shop, with a stove in the middle. Everything smelled like tar and oil. And still does.

[@tracym427]

It’s mostly good for small vehicles that you left the dome light on and the battery just needs some help to start the vehicle. The reason the button doesn’t affect the resetting of the cables is because the internal battery’s output is hard wired straight to the output plug. That switch won’t disconnect that. That in-line box with the mosfets is just a current regulator obviously set at 75ish amps to keep from damaging the lipo battery. If you hooked this to a Honda Accord that just needed a little help it would prob only transfer 50 amps or less and as every second passes and the car battery voltage rises the load the the lipo booster pack would decrease a few amps. 50,45,40,35,30,25,20,15,10,ect,ect.. Once you turn the key over the 75 amp max output would be pulled but usually a car starts before the 5 seconds it would take to put this thing in “need to reset mode”. Anyways I’m just laying in bed bored. Maybe my $.02 will help.

[@bradnoyes7955]

27:15 My sister has a CRV that was starting slow (but did still start), the battery tested a 26 CCA.

[@brainkill7034]

Some great feedback in this video. I especially liked the shared insight of the tactile switch. These points are usually what ends up being lost in the interactions between product and the enginerds.

[@ZackTrousdale]

i was really looking forward to the thermal imaging shots of the boards :(

[@SevenSixTwo2012]

I got me one of those Type S boosters at Costco in late 2020. It couldn't start a Ford 2.0L 4 cyl with a dead battery about a month ago. It cranked very slowly a few times and then the battery pack needed recharging. Temperature outside was just below freezing. Also, I don't think you can use it to trickle-charge the battery either, as the battery pack will shut itself off after like 2 minutes. So yeah, it's NFG indeed!

[@tejaspreetsingh6945]

Hey AvE I am from India and have been watching you for quite a while now. I'm glad you like the indian foods.

[@cfrek]

I have a feeling that he's been to India for some kind of work in the past !

[@tejaspreetsingh6945]

@@cfrek He has mentioned it in the past, but just wanted to voice my appreciation.

[@jasonwineland7016]

Always enjoy your channel!! As far as the type C charger not wanting to charge. Take a look inside they are very susceptible to dust and debris intrusion in the port preventing a proper connection. Just a possibility.

[@geuzeg]

it's shielded too deeply , you know that feeling you get when you don't know if you are actuating the button and you gotta press harder....... All the time, ask the miss

[@peacefrog0521]

“That’s not iiiiiiit...” 😀

[@ShlingusMcDingus]

If your usb-c port isnt working on the pixel, take one of those plastics tooth picks or something of the sort and clean the port out. I had the same problem with my pixel 3xl and this fixed it. You'd be amazed the amount of stuff that comes out

[@MemorableC]

clean your charger hole, that's been the only time my usb-c ports have stopped working, was a lint ball in there

[@bryanjk]

I have this issue all the time using the phone in dirty environments. It's super annoying.

[@vernonbear]

@@bryanjk buy one of those magnetic charger port thingamejigs they plug the port and stop any schmoo filling it up 😀

[@mattmckie6967]

Tooth pick

[@mrlescure]

@@bryanjk oh gods, those break on me all the time because small bits of metal like to get pulled into them.

[@ciaccmo]

gotta clean out the old belly button every once in a while.

[@MichaelSteeves]

I've got one that Costco sold a few years ago. Very similar issues. Also *very* useful for starting my lawn tractor.

[@markjohnson7887]

It's not an issue. They aren't meant to be jump starters. They are meant to charge the battery and then start the car.

[@sdobart]

The current output is actually way higher, but the load tester you have is only rated to pull 100A.

[@EscapeMCP]

It usually is connected to a car battery at maybe 10V (if "discharged"). The booster battery is 3.7Vx4=14.8V. 14.8V-10V=4.8V. 100A at 4.8V is a whole lot less power than trying to pull 100A (or 70A) @ the full 14.8V. Does that work or is it just amps that are important here? This test neglects the half-dead battery that will be helping out with the start. I got one of these, within weeks used it to start a random guy's diesel transit van in a hospital car park where I was getting treatment. 6 weeks of antibiotics - god I was messed up. Anyway, the van was totally dead. Attached the booster and started first time. Awesome bit of kit. These are one of those gems coming out of China. Everyone should get one, moreso if you have a car.

[@domineech]

@@EscapeMCP I have one and started a truck yesterday at -8 F after they tried jump starting it with a few different cars. Sometimes you have to leave it connected for a bit to charge the other battery, or so I've been told. I have had better luck with my little one than with my big jump box.

[@waydwalker3674]

Mount that switch higher so it is easier to turn the light on (accidently) and you will really be piss off in the blowing snow and rain when your jumper pack is dead.

[@scubagravy]

I used a toothpick to pick lint from the connection on my phone, pulled out more than my annual belly button cleaning frenzy

[@lahma69]

Generally, USB Type C plugs have at least the same insertion/removal cycle rating as USB Micro-B plugs (minimum 10,000 cycles) but in cases of reputable/reliable manufacturers who have high standards/good quality control (i.e tight tolerances), Type C plugs/receptacles seem to generally have increased endurance over their Micro-B counterparts. Obviously there are always going to be exceptions to that based on lots of different factors but in my experience with repairing electronics, that seems to generally hold true (though honestly, it's probably hard not to be biased being that there are SO many more Micro-B devices out there and almost all of them are older than Type-C devices).

[@christopherbose3461]

You're the shop/chemistry teacher EVERYONE should have in school! I've been watching all of your videos for the past month and I just want to say one thing... THANK YOU! C.BOSE PLANO,TX

[@fallingshells6856]

In the dingus there on the end of the alligators, those are mosfets in a forward bias orientation. Some mosfets work as a diode when no ground is connected to the gate and some work as a diode when no hot is connected to the gate. Which is which depends on npn vs pnp, but I cannot remember which does which. You'll also see mosfets wired up with a cut gate if they're being used as a buck (voltage down) regulator. The four of them there prevent reverse polarity as well as charging, but there's four of them there to reduce the cooling for a high current. Think of it like trying to run a 2 inch water line into a 3/4 inch garden hose. You're restricting the flow which produces heat and an apparent pressure drop on the small side. But if your run the 2 inch line through 4 3/4 inch hoses, you can recombine them on the other side for minimal losses. Likely no real switching going on in there. Also that voltage drop is because of ohms law. High current, low resistance, makes for no pressure.

[@WeighedWilson]

Excellent timing Uncle B. My weekly rib-eye just came off the grill.

[@arduinoversusevil2025]

Beauty! Enjoy.

[@houstonfirefox]

Against a dead short (like a battery tester), I can see it having issues. I have a similar battery brick I keep in the back of my plane that gets me started every time after the young ones leave a switch on they weren't supposed to touch.

[@wes11bravo]

20:10 - holy cold solder joints, Batman!!

[@Tommydis]

I have used this 3 times in the past 6 months, twice in -10 c. Each time it has been for someone else vehicle. One Honda civic 2002, started right away, 2008 Pontiac Vibe started second time after we moved the clamps around a bit to get a better connection. Third was a 2018 Cadillac Escalade, the battery booster was frozen solid. Took 3 times to start it up, the booster just need to warm up a bit. I didn't even need to remove it from the car battery to reset after each try. This battery booster has paid for itself already and I have yet to use it on my car. The real test will be 6 months to a year from now. Thanks for the video and use a wooden toothpick to clean out your usb-c on your pixel you NUT! lol

[@mrspart5548]

ive got one of the gooloo ones off amazon and it jumped my dodge diesel when one battery went bad

[@Brian-cr6rb]

I has to add this after the other comment because I have one of these units. It's a BASAF I got from amazon. 1500 peak I think . It does time out after 5 second or so. If the battery on the vehicle is stone flat, I have to press a small boost button on the connection where the clips are. It's been quite an ally to me, probably jumping 100 vehicles since I got it two years ago. You are spot on with operating temperature too. It was a no go with a hyandui elantra I was trying to help someone out with in sub zero temperature, it didn't help that the car was flooded and never seen a tune either. Outside of that, the only thing it couldn't get to pop was a 7.3 ford turbo diesel without a gear reduction starter. It almost had it. But overall they are actually great tools in my opinion.

[@davidblanck4131]

I'm actually shocked you had more issues with "C" than Micro. I've had the opposite experience.

[@ryanmalin]

yeah thank god for the death of microB. I have had zero issues with any of my USBc devices. Usb-microB has been the exact opposite.

[@flexopuppy]

Same here. They will all have their downsides. The upsides outweigh them in the case of USB-C. It also depends on how many times you connect and disconnect them...They will obviously wear after time and loosen. I am betting on the lint conspiracy though.

[@davidblanck4131]

I agree. This is the first time I've owned a phone for over 3 years and the charging port still works. Mind you, it is a Note 8. So, I have burn in issues and a couple minor issues that plague the phone. The charger for the first time since I owned a Nokia is not the problem first lol.

[@Koitous]

Coming from a guy who's had three of em, Pixels have shitty USB ports. I've been wireless charging my Pixel 3 XL for the past year, just upgraded to the Note 20 Ultra and the USB port is much stiffer imo

[@djstringsmusic2994]

I've had the same issues he mentioned with C plus the actual connection isnt as solid. Usb C in my experience wears out way more quickly

[@agentmango]

I have something analogous to that one, a baseus 12 Ah jump pack. The connector/clamps it came with seems to cycle the voltage off/on, and cuts out after some seconds of providing power, like yours. But I found that with a cheap EC5 clamp set (like bigclive reviewed a while ago) it put out stable uninterrupted voltage. I even made up an EC5 to XT60 cable and used this bank's 14 V to power a lipo charger; the cable also let me charge or discharge the pack with the lipo charger. So the pack itself is versatile, it's just the electronics in the clamp set.

[@JValentineV]

Videoquality getting way to good. Now I have to set it to 240P and yell : "FOCUS YoU FaCk!" myself. Aw well, good vidjeo nevertheless.

[@MrM1CHA3L]

Hahahah so true

[@jumpinjojo]

Valentijn V. *too good, not to.

[@jumpinjojo]

@@carolynwilbur1627 *an A minus.

[@JValentineV]

@@jumpinjojo 🤣

[@flymypg]

I have a Chinesium version with no display or beep-boop or code-blinkenled (but with SOS flashlight!), and it cranks my 2 liter Mazda Skyactive engine quite easily despite the 14:1 compression ratio. Which was needed because Mazda put crap batteries in their cars for a few years. Gave up after three replacements and bought a decent battery. Until then, the jumpstarter was being used so often that I got a small Coleman solar cell that I stuck on the dash to keep the battery topped up. Worked like a charm. Another thing about my cheap jumpstarter is that the self-discharge rate is far lower than my other LiPo batteries. Still worked after being ignored for nearly a year. My other LiPo batteries drain while you watch them.

[@KWatson1984]

Over 2 weeks since the last vijeo... I was starting to get worried a boot you

[@rreynolds1114]

yes I was getting worried also he just needed a date with the better half and a trip to the casks lol

[@rhyoliteaquacade]

Because of that Mostfet protector blob, it only works with the clamps on a car battery seeing about 10V, only then will it deliver a full charge, which is probably not more than the 76A you saw initially. It really relies on the lead acid battery soaking up some volt'a amps and behaving like a huge capacitor. I had an HVAC guy stuck in my driveway for 45 minutes here in sunny FL trying to jump with one of those. It got exceedingly hot and after three tries stopped working, no luck. His truck battery was pretty hosed. Had to push his truck "up" my driveway to get a car turned around and use the old style jumpers.

[@oldtree218]

Yeah ....I'm pretty sure that's a pressure treated baluster in the open stove... I might be wrong... AVE he's pretty sharp ...for now

[@edradtke287]

most of those packs require a feed back voltage from the car to let the pack know that its hooked to a battery.the nocos that I bought do have an over ride switch in the event that your battery is flat.

[@Sorkyah]

gotta agree with ToT there take a tpin and clean it out I have this issue with my pixel constantly

[@davidbarts6144]

Before they put the feedback into those crossing signal buttons, I _always_ pushed them multiple times, because I learned the hard way that sometimes they have dirty switch contacts and pushing them just once wasn’t enough.

[@JOHNTHE8TH1]

Quantum physics “drop a valence level and out shoots a photon” edgeamucated....

[@jeffzuiderveen7266]

I don't doubt a single thing he said...but this thing DID start my BMW 3.0 without ANY battery....( hooking up the jump pack to battery terminals)...just had to move car 50 feet.........tried this later with an 800 amp Schumacher jump pack.......newp......I love this thing!.....great value

[@SquishySenpai]

Technically Micro B is far weaker than type C, but there's always someone who's had a different experience.

[@awgmax]

Yep was about to say that. Micro b is rated for lower amount of cycles, and it is consistent with my experience in the past. No problem yet with my 2017 phone with USB-C and had problems with every micro-b phone before that.

[@SquishySenpai]

@@awgmax I've had problems with C, but they were all solved by taking a toothpick and digging out the lint and dirt stuck in the port on the device.

[@alouisschafer7212]

never ever had anything go wrong with USB C

[@titusjames4912]

Micro B on a Pixel mind you. Like a chrome book but for your walkie-talkie.

[@Patrick-857]

USB C is far superior. Micro B used to be the crappy Archillies heel of every device.

[@carlylea]

I use a similar one to help start my airplane in the winter time - the plane has a small battery and needs some extra umph in the winter. That being said, the voltage of the plane battery is generally around 13 volts, and those booster packs are at 12.6 fully charged (They're only 11.1v, 3S lipo packs). They do work well, however, they DO NOT put out quite as much voltage as a normal 12 volt car battery.

[@adamnichols476]

This is truly the most tragic coming of age tale I have ever heard.

[@ProfessorFartsalot]

That 77 amps is to keep the lipo cell from exploding. Most are only rated for 3 or 4C (4x their capacity). That 77 amps is probably its max output and if sustained longer than 10 seconds it might generate insane heat and.... recreate the hindenburg to say the least.

[@TimZ007]

When I hear electrolytes i think Brawndo.

[@DrakeOola]

Its what plants crave

[@brokeagarage4368]

Brawndo the thirst mutilator. 😆 I love that movie. If anyone ever offers me water to drink I always ask "u mean like out of the toilet " 😆

[@Michael-OBrien]

I vaporized a 50 A shunt load a peak current test of my lithium booster pack. Clocked in at like 833 A of something like that and it was rated for 800 A peak. That was a fun experience, though I set it up with the expectation of something going bang

[@scottyknot7403]

You are an icon.. I appreciate the videos! You would be a great boss in Florida!

[@BrettDalton]

Remeber its supplementing the battery so tif the main battery is providing even half the normal current the thermal cutout on it will probably give you 20 or 30 seconds. Totally agree on the trickle charging however

[@mansongothman]

that doesnt just look like sos, it is sos.

[@IndianaDundee]

Just bought a boost pack from Harbor Stink. Says it starts V8’s. Would even start my 4cyl. Laughable. Then HF wanted to charge me a $14 restocking fee because the box was open. So I opted to exchange it for another one. Why,...? Because the box isn’t open on the new one. Fallow?

[@Conservator.]

Smart move.

[@MattsAwesomeStuff]

Did you say the heating element in the load tester was Inconel? You mean... Nichrome?

[@mikegeasland1275]

I have one of those and it works well. The thing to remember is that it works for boosting a weak battery, not jumping form stone cold dead and most of the time its enough to get the car from the lot into the shop to fix it.

[@rogerhodges7656]

The greatcthing about Costco is that there is no need to complain about their products. If you don't like it, take it back! No questions.

[@seandaly7002]

well, maybe not after he's done working it over...gotta at least get it back together

[@ericspeltier]

I have one. It have jumped my 3.5L ecoboost in my Ford as many as 5 times with no issues and the battery indicator has only shown 1/4 depleted after 5 jumps. They work surprisingly well.

[@JoshStLouis314]

NPN and PNP are for BJTs, MOSFETs are N-channel and P-channel.

[@Rick1984P]

Potato potato ;)

[@Rebel635csi]

The failure part is the jumpe cable and that board built into them. They're universal for all these packs. Theyre there to "protect" the pack from too much current draw, as well as too low of voltage, but if the pack is cold they kick off to early not allowing the internal resistance of the pack to heat it up and get it working....and if you leave it hooked up to trickle charge the main battery, there just isnt enough amp hours to do that...gotta try starting it right away...

[@el737rs]

28 minutes? Ts... Still 20 shorter than ToT

[@NOTNOTJON]

best comment today! can't compete with the Maho rebuild.

[@Zzzlaldkfjrowpq]

@@NOTNOTJON only way for AvE to compete is to convert the HAAS into a fully manual machine.

[@nathanielweaver7078]

I have a different booster from walmart for my old polaris, and you're right, the disconnect to reset is a pain. It is handy though

[@jaydunbar7538]

Those little things are fine for helping start something a little low on juice, but a proper jump box they are not.

[@notajp]

Well, the one I got is about the size of a large phone and provides 400 amps. I have started my V8 truck with it. Granted it wasn’t completed dead, but didn’t have enough beans to crank it. Not bad for something that will fit in your pocket.

[@anttiroppola4414]

That's the 90% I suspect this sort if thing is meant for. Small enough to keep around, just enough to get a failing battery over the line.

[@ApolloTheDerg]

I won a different brand of these at a work party one night, it was just after I got myself a 96 F250 with a 7.3l turbo diesel that uses 2 batteries. I’ll say it’s a really good battery bank for charging the phone and stuff, may not be jumping the truck with it but I’ll take it.

[@bobafruti]

Looks like they tried their best to pre-cook those mosfets.