Audi (A6 A4 Q5) 3.2 Upper Timing Chain Tensioners, Cam Girdle Seals, & Engine Removal | MUST SEE!

[@The_outdoorsman.]

Thanks!

[@Mechani_Cole]

@The_outdoorsman wow thank you! One of the first Superchats I have ever gotten. Much appreciated. Happy Holidays👌🏼🫡

[@thriceborn7665]

This was a massive undertaking. Bigups for getting this done. These engines really are amazing and this is the most impressive DIY video I've seen on an Audi. Respect!

[@jeremiahnordby5167]

This is my first KZbin comment ever, I just wanted to say thank you so much for recording all this. I watched your video so many times after researching and preparing myself for the job. You helped me so much you will never know Homie. I replaced the chain tentioners as the car was making noises on start up. We are good to go now, all because of you and your video. Thanks again homie 🙏

[@Mechani_Cole]

So cool to hear😁 This was the longest project I've done as far the video hours and this engine work. The video was about 12 hours of footage when I first started editing. So to me I think its really cool that its able to help people. I appreciate your comment and am pretty stoked to hear you completed this MASSIVE job on your own. This is not an easy job, so pat yourself on the back, thats actually impressive! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

[@ronaldmorera7309]

bro u are helping me alot on this videos i actually thinking on doing one, so just to tell you and u feel good about your car, i yave and s4 b8.5 i didnt have that much oil in mine like it was just a little and mine was inside beetwen the vales and the spark plugs, i notice because of rough iddle misfire and i did a scan and was culinder 4 and 6 so when i check thats when i notice i changed the sparks, problem persist, so before changing the coils i was like umm let me check the compression and yes 30 pounds on compression in cylinder 4 and 6 now im watching videos to see if there anyway i can fix the engine while inside the car without having to take the engine off the car and looking for videos to do it

[@anthonyr5869]

Why would you ever buy one of these cars one

[@Mechani_Cole]

@anthony why wouldn't you? They are great cars, plenty of power, lots of room. Some of the best cars in this class. Better question is why would you ever watch this video on this car if you don't like them?

[@anthonyr5869]

@@Mechani_Cole I watched speedkars video one these engines.. I don’t disagree with the other aspects of these cars but I am shocked someone can be an apologist for this poorly engineered engine. Especially the inexcusable complexity of the engine design

[@noti88]

Cole this is an absurdly well put together DIY, esp since you hadn't worked on an Audi before. Thanks for blazing ahead with this repair and documenting everything so very well. Parts list is huge too. You've saved me a massive amount of time and provided the 3.2L owners with an invaluable resource.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thanks @Thomas Valinoti! Really appreciated these kinds of comments. Glad it was helpful🤟🏼

[@dingdingalingthecat4924]

Thanks Cole your video's really make me happy about fixing my vehicle.2009 Q5 3.2v6 w/180k mi used $6k. My 1st German car; pretty damm high tech love to gauges look.

[@krangster4420]

Your videos make me appreciate what mechanics and engineers do - thank you for taking the time to share

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thanks for the comment, much appreciated!

[@kyra104]

As an owner of a 2008 A6 3.2 Quattro, your video was a great learning reinforcement tool. Thank you for sharing and congrats on successfully completing the project.

[@singh-6247]

@MechaniCole the repetitive usage of “a bad day” really puts everything into perspective. No short cuts💯.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Yeah I had a few bad days here on this job, definitely learned a ton!

[@jeremywiest7597]

This walk-through/tutorial is excellent. Really nice work. I had only planned on watching a few minutes of it just to check it out. I wound up watching the whole thing. Thank you for taking the time to do this. A+

[@chrisoakes8345]

I don’t even have this problem “I don’t think” and I watched every second of this video. Great job man! I’ll follow this video if I ever need to do it

[@wibes-adventures]

Thank you buddy! This is amazing that you did this video! I have exactly the same Engine already out off the car… but I was hesitating to open the chain covers, and then I find this awesome video!!! I’m pretty sure this video will help so many people that love this cars but can’t really afford to pay a mechanic for jobs like this one ☝🏻! Thank you again and again.

[@michaelsweet8327]

The best video Ive seen! Im looking at a 2012 Q5 3.2 with 135K miles. The Timing chain is overdue on maintenance schedule. Do you know about what this would cost at a dealer, and, could you share your costs on tools etc too get the job done? Really appreciate you, your work and time you gave to do this!

[@Mechani_Cole]

@michaelsweet8327 appreciate that! I've heard of this job running around $4,000 at the dealer. Maybe a little cheaper at an independent shop. For tools, it probably was under $200 to aquire everything needed. Parts weren't much. But the timing chain kit can get expensive. It's an engine out job either way.

[@israelherrera5144]

have a 2009 audi a5 w the 3.2-- Has been nightmare to own, transmission leak, oil filter housing leak, oxygen sensors, high pressure fuel pump failure, low pressure fuel pump failure, and another oil leak by the ac pump. Thank you for this video- final nail on the coffin on selling this high maintenance beauty and sticking to a Toyota.

[@Mechani_Cole]

That's a smart decision, even though I love Audi, I feel like a glutton for punishment everytime I touch one. Even better, get a Lexus!

[@themetalfusionologist]

BROoooo….I gotta tackle the cam girdle reseal ASAP and YT algorithm brought me to your vid which is exactly what I needed. Extremely informative, very well done and the links for parts are amazing with everything else. Subscribed… And thanks for this

[@themetalfusionologist]

Also, did you have the infamous Audi suspension “clunk” or rattle that plagues these things? If so, did you find/fix it?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Yes I did, mine ended up being the lower control arms even though they looked perfect

[@themetalfusionologist]

@@Mechani_Cole I’ve replaced every bushing, control arm (ball joints, bushings included), every end link…if it moves in the front, I’ve replaced it. And I’ve never stopped it. It’s actually gotten worse. If you ever come across one that’s undetectable, PLEASE make a vid about it. I’ve been pulling my hair out for two years trying to track it down. Thanks for responding

[@Mechani_Cole]

Have you replaced the rubber mounts on top of the shocks? I've also heard wheel bearings make a clunk as well

[@themetalfusionologist]

@@Mechani_Cole I have, I replaced literally everything all at once & my right side bearing (which is where the noise is) has been replaced..I’m running ST Suspension Coilovers, so it’s lowered about 1.5” all around if that makes any difference. But I purposely swapped everything suspension wise EXCEPT the CV axles so that I could narrow the noise down to something different at that point. I thought I’d finally fixed it when I drove it the first time and when I pulled onto the road the passenger side rolled off the small ledge between my concrete driveway and the road, I heard that unmistakable “clunk” as soon as the tire hit the asphalt (maybe a 1/2” ledge between the two surfaces) and it’s progressively gotten worse. The strangest part is that when it’s cold (say 30°-40° outside) it’s quiet, will not do it even on the roughest surface. This may sound like I’m either nit-picking or crazy as hell, but I assure you I’m not, it’s a constant rattle/clunk from the right front when driving. I’m searching high and low for ANY person that has or had this same issue trying to find a solution. I’m pretty peculiar about my cars, but not so much that I’m making up noises in my head. lol

[@aarontyrrell2931]

I’m impressed, I have a 2.7 S4 and watched your whole video just because I know how much work that was. Good job!!

[@aarontyrrell2931]

Ps. I was your 1000 thumbs 👍

[@Mechani_Cole]

Appreciate you! Just finished a 3.0T removal.and breakdown as well. About to the new used engine in there in about 2 more weeks

[@fccquoter19]

Thank you so much for this video. You did an amazing job and explained the details very well. I'll be coming back to your channel for years I'm sure. FYI, if you buy an S4/S5 and do these types of videos on the 3.0T you'll be a very popular guy!!!

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thanks I appreciate that! Those cars are definitely on my list eventually😁

[@blairguinea6811]

Cole this is the ONLY vid on you tube, fantastic Sir, loved every second ! Thank you for your time..............the audi engine is quite complicated to say the least

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thank you! Yes I agree, these direct injection engines are a bit complicated. I have learned a lot since I started working on these. Thanks for watching😁

[@blah3156210]

Extremely helpful! Thank you! A small issue, why so adamant that the pins need to to be swapped for each head? You've used the lock tool in the exact same way on both sides - at 14:06 and 40:48 - makes sense to me, as the cam bolts are all right hand thread, no matter which angle you approach them! The pins will obviously have to be swapped when changing from loosening to tightening the cam bolts.

[@michaelw6277]

Your guide pin trick is so simple and effective that I can’t believe I’ve never heard of anyone doing that before…. but instead of a screwdriver I think I’ll get a few appropriately sized fasteners to chop the heads off of when I need to do this next.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Much appreciated, thanks for the comment! Anything that fits should work the same. Helped a ton on the install. Another trick I just learned is to grind the dowels on the rear of the engine down at an angle if you have the rear main cover off. This makes aligning it much easier🫡

[@jnavonoD]

Dude holy balls what a job. Got here via watching a teardown of an Audi 3.2 in which (I do cars, I think) said it was diabolical. You did it man. Well done.

[@Mechani_Cole]

I would agree with his statement haha. I actually ended up picking up another Audi just last week too, this time with the 3.0 Supercharged engine for some added fun on maintenance time😅

[@jnavonoD]

@@Mechani_Cole ye gods! Good luck and I'll watch. Cheers from New Zealand 👌🙏

[@Mechani_Cole]

I'm a glutton for punishment haha! Cheers from Las Vegas! Cool to see my videos making it to all the different countries 😎

[@tehgzizlauw1787]

DUDE this video is the shit! I need to do this job on an A6 3.0T supercharged and this is the only video that clearly shows everything. Good looking out on that tensioner gasket, had no idea that was even there. Appreciate it!

[@Mechani_Cole]

Much appreciated, thanks for watching!

[@fccquoter19]

Tehgziz lauw did you end up doing the tensioners on your 3.0T with the engine in the car? How was it? Any advice?

[@tehgzizlauw1787]

@@fccquoter19 no I never did it, I no longer have the car but from some of the reading I've done the 3.0t has Kombi valves in the back so you have to remove those first in order to get access to the timing chain covers. I was going to also remove the supercharger to give a bit more space but not sure if that would be helpful or not. I think other than that it's basically the same as the 3.2 so everything else shown in this video applies to the 3.0t, especially if you have a C6.5 A6

[@Mechani_Cole]

This is correct! The 4.2 also has the combi valves on timing covers. Add about an hour for those

[@kevinporter8213]

I so appreciate you doing this video, I normally don’t comment ever but it’s definitely deserved brother. I have a 12 A7 and do the work myself (or try to) and this helps me tremendously, thank you 💯

[@Mechani_Cole]

Appreciate the comment 🫡

[@BabyJesus1987]

I dig your creativity with the angle grinder

[@jason.arthur.taylor]

really great video!!! Also: all audi potential buyers should see this video before pulling that trigger!

[@robertficek7586]

1:05:00 Great video overall but not sure if you got the tightening sequence right, that part is confusing even when reading and interpreting the manual. The cam phaser tightening dance sequence as i vaguely remember (confirm with manual) Step 1 - Pull the pins to engage tensioners, use holding tool to apply a little tension with the chain to get the slack out (NOT COUNTER HOLD) then tighten first 40n.m (tool hold on phaser clock wise on, bolt tighten clock wise) Step 2 - tighten 80nm, now you counter hold the phasers since 80n.m is a lot of stress on the camshaft locking tool. (tool hold on phaser counter clock wise, tighten bolt clock wise) Step 3 - ball busting 90 degree, (tool hold on phaser counter clock wise, tighten bolt clock wise) It didnt make sense at first why they specify 2 torque steps + an angle, why not just go to 80nm right away?, its that the first step is not the same as the second.

[@brianmiglionico5835]

This is the best video, I definitely appreciate this as it is EXACTLY what I needed, including the links! Awesome job, I actually started the process, been running into several issues and started getting disheartened as someone took apart my A6 and used RTV on everything which is brittle and falling apart just like you experienced. After this video I am actually looking forward to doing the entire job including the full timing chains, timing tensionors, engine seals, the whole 9 yards full seal rebuild kit 😉. Appreciate ya man!

[@Mechani_Cole]

Comments like this made the 14 hours of video editing for this video worth it! Glad you enjoyed and it was helpful, hopefully the rest of the job goes easier for you. One thing I learned afterwards is, when removing the engine, don't worry about the torque converter bolts. It's actually easier to remove the front of the car all the way and pull the engine with the torque converter still attached. It just slides out,would have saved me a lot of hassle as the torque converter bolts are a challenge for sure.

[@brianmiglionico5835]

@@Mechani_Cole I did just that. I notice oil leak in front and while I don't have vegetarian arms the little 6 inch of space aforded by the lock position I knew wouldn't help so I removed entire front end (on both my A6 and Q5 😆)... no issues with bolts just yet so 🤞🏽 they didn't mess those up... 1 question I see on the list of links RTV for Timing Chain cover but since there is possibility of it dryign and cracking similar to what you mentioned on Valve Cover Girdle should we use the other sealant mention and/or would that be better, worse...?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Haha, hope the veggie arm joke got a laugh 😅 And no. You want to use a quality high temp RTV there. The anaerobic sealant is only for the cam girdle. The correct procedure from Audi is to use RTV on the rear timing covers.

[@brianmiglionico5835]

@@Mechani_Cole Got It! Also I saw the Anaerobic Seal link isn't working... Just fyi... there was 1 or 2 I saw not working (I think Cam Shaft lock tool). Not sure if it matters 😆 just thought i'd let ya know.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Hey that's actually good to know! I'll go update those today. Thanks!

[@JB-rr9ks]

I ran into the same problem with the dowels for a 4.2. Come to find out, I saw somewhere that they are alignment tools that pass through the girdle and not a dowel to be left in there. I poked screwdrivers like you.

[@juice8284]

Cole Thanks for the motivation, I did my first engine out service on my wife's Q5 and it was super easy. besides the exhuast nuts.

[@Mechani_Cole]

@juice8284 it took me a few engines to get those nuts down. Now I got a technique. Thanks for the comment 🫡

[@AustinTillison]

Dude, you're incredible. You make such a complex job seem doable. Amazing work. I just picked up a 2006 A6. Hoping I don't have to do this soon lol

[@Mechani_Cole]

Appreciate that! Just take your time. And don't expect anything to go smoothly, you can def do it yourself

[@MstreetDriver]

I admire you for doing all that work while engine was in the car, I would be pulling it around 2:30 :D great work

[@Mechani_Cole]

I appreciate the comment. Thank you🤙🏼

[@ethanchaperlo9876]

Bro.. solid video. My dudes got the same engine and really couldn’t find any other resources throughout the tube. 👌

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thanks for the comment! Was definitely a lot of work, glad it is helpful🤟🏼

[@chrislantern9272]

3.2 fsi is such underrated machine. I have the 2010 Q5 3.2 I avoided the 2.0 on purpose because of all the problems. The 3.2 is such a beautiful highway cruiser. I have a CTS Cold Air Intake and I’m getting the AWE non-resonated exhaust. Great cars really, if you want a solid Audi that you don’t really have to worry about like the 2.0 the 3.2 FSI is the way to go!

[@Mechani_Cole]

You're 3.2 is updated and has some small differences over the older ones but yes. A great engine. I've had great experience with our 2014 Q5 with the 2.0 as well. But probably because I maintain it myself. Just got 2 3.0T A6s as well I'm excited for

[@nandor690]

Very nice job. I like seeing the torque wrench out and the quality parts

[@2024-x4o]

Thank you very much for the info and the video, I have done many DIY stuft to my A6 C6 2008 3.2 fsi Quattro but this process it’s on a higher level, in a future, this should be challenging in order to replace the timing chains once they get worn.. cheers!

[@mchaudry9811]

I am about to do a 2013 q7 3.0T engine rebuild-similar to this engine. Total pistons and all. Got low compression in cylinder 2. I’ve done several 2.0T rebuilds so this is a first of the 3.0T v6. Should be fun!

[@Mechani_Cole]

I'd rather swap it then rebuild it personally. Best of luck, my most recent engine rebuild was the Subaru Ej255, but much easier than Audi engines

[@JB-rr9ks]

It looks like comparable room to a 4.2 Q7, except a shorter reach to the back. I just got through retiming a 4.2 for a flip. Now I'm looking for a high mileage Q5 for my daughter to drive. The jobs look very similar!

[@Mechani_Cole]

Nice! I just picked up a 4.2 Audi A6 and got a bunch of videos coming on it soon. Its similar, but there is some differences and extra steps for sure

[@nikolaymitov2527]

Awesome video bud, although I was caught off guard at 21:50 min I was cracking up man 😂😂😂😂

[@Mechani_Cole]

🤣🤣🤣 Glad you enjoyed, thanks for watching!🤟🏼

[@sundayoghenekaro8509]

Very detailed video, I’m impressed. Keep the good work

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thank you, much appreciated!

[@jibmaster]

About to reseal the rear timing cover along with the other 100 things "while you're in there" in a B7 A4 3.2 and came across this video. Awesome! I've owned numerous Audis the past 30 yrs-including THREE C5 allroads!! (Stage 3'd a 6MT even). Appreciate your time putting this together. Will use the affiliate links for sure. BTW I have a 2 post lift in my shop. Was thinking of just dropping the whole engine/trans/carrier/suspension down and out as one unit. What do you think. Wish you still lived in Everett! North in Bham... Hope NV is treating you right.

[@Cooperdaleit]

Fellow B7 A4 3.2 owner here going through the gaskets one at a time... 125k miles and the engine is very healhty but just won't stop leaking oil. Onto the Oil filter housing gasket and rear timing covers next. My cam girdle seals aren't leaking yet but valve cover gaskets are done. Thinking about selling the car prior to that as it is a serious PIA. It's a 6-speed so quite rare and I love the car but I think the 50k trouble-free miles I've put on it are coming to an end. I am also located in WA in Marysville.

[@Mechani_Cole]

@cooperdale I just moved from Everett to Las Vegas so was pretty close! These engines leak oil like crazy, but are good once sealed back up. With the high prices of used cars it could be worth it to fix it and keep driving it. Or sell it and move on. Personally I keep choosing to drive an Audi after owning one now.

[@Cooperdaleit]

@@Mechani_Cole Nice! Everett is right next door. I am an Audi guy for sure but wondering if now is the time for me to sell. It is considered low mileage and rare optioned and if I fix all of the gaskets that's fine but I wonder what could possibly come next. Suspension, clutch, etc. I bought the car for 7k 3 years ago put 50k miles on it and only replaced the HPFP and some of the easier gaskets so far. I speculate I can pull 6-8k from it today and walk away happy and move onto an s4/s5 with the 3.0t or possibly go MQB and get an A3/S3. It runs amazingly. You can see it on my channel. The inside of the head looks brand new as I showed! Appreciate your input and coverage of the 3.2 engine regardless :) -Austin

[@gregoryguth3975]

What a great video. I have the same car and the same issues. Could you add a link for the cam girdle bolts, Don't see a link for that in the description. Thank you for posting this video.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thank you! It defintely wasn't fun, but well worth it! Yes on the bolts! I was still finishing the links when I posted it. I'll update the list today. Several more parts to add. Thanks for watching!

[@Mechani_Cole]

Gregory Guth here is a link for the cam girdle bolts as requested! 42 total, Part #n 105 540 05 - ebay.us/dziVzY

[@Mechani_Cole]

I also just updated the description with all the torque specs and links for parts😁

[@gregoryguth3975]

@@Mechani_Cole That's awesome Cole, thanks a lot. I'm about to start this project. Your video is a life saver.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Happy it was helpful! Don't skip on the timing tool kit and also a proper torque wrench. Also, what I would do differently is, I would start at the bolt that I stripped. That way, as long as those bolts come out you won't run into the same issue as me and have to pull the motor. Its tricky up against the shock tower and there is a coolant line there too so those bottom timing cover bolts can be a pain in the ass. Also, unplug ignition coils and crank engine when finished to build up oil pressure to prevent the loud harsh startup like I had. I learned a ton doing this job, feel free to ask questions😁

[@TransSiberianMoto]

1) Great instructional video...super helpful. 2) Hey @Its Mechanicole - just curious, when you strip those two Upper Chain cover Torx, the audio mysteriously goes out until you are almost done with removing the entire front end. I am assuming this is because this is a 'family show' and there were some colorful words? I feel your pain, sir... If anything, hopefully, that pain turned into what looks like a beautiful launch to your awesome channel! At some point, you need to share that cut! :) Congrats on the killer content.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thank you, I very much appreciate that! For the audio time, can you leave a time stamp of when you are talking about? I couldn't find any audio cut out. Unless of course you noticed the voice over. However, there was more than cuss words said when this originally happened. We tried for about 4 days to get that bolt to come out, but nothing we tried would work, and I tried so many things! In the end it was better to have the engine out and do all these repairs. I would hate to do half of this work and have another leak down the road shortly after. I just picked up a 4.2 and if I ever do this job again, I am just going to pull the engine from the start. Much easier to work on outside of the car. And yes, the pain definitely taught lessons and has allowed me to help others through this video. Thats my favorite thing is being able to help others through my struggles, its definitely a cool thing! Appreciate your comment once again! and if you can find the time on that clip, I am happy to provide it hahaha! This job ended up being over 14 hours of content to sift through and make this video. It was a lot of work and a lot got cut to make it watchable.

[@LAW-Automotive]

Kudos for a massive undertaking. Couple of errors to mention which may helps others, the rear main seal simple install the timing cover and then you fit the rear main seal. It's so much easier and you won't have so much issue fitting the cover or damaging the seal. 2nd problem, the upper cam tensioner need the pin pulling out BEFORE you torque the cam sprockets. This is because the tensionera spring take the chain slack out and will move slightly the sprocket. So if you torque first then pull the locking pin it won't take the slack to the tensioners side. I hope you don't have future issues. Great job anyway your very brave.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Appreciate the tips! So far the car is still running great almost 3 years later🫡

[@powasly6357]

Hi, a big thank you for your many videos on this engine, I don't know if you will see this comment because the video is old, but is there a particular procedure when reassembling the flywheel? I change engines but I keep the same flywheel and I don't see any marks or anything! thank you from France

[@danielvarju9088]

Hi Cole, before the hand rotation you explained that the vvt sprockets marking looks good. Can you explain what is the exactly marking on the sprockets and the engine block what needs to time together?

[@Mechani_Cole]

The sprockets shouldn't matter as much as long as the locking tool is in place. The locking tool keeps the cams where they need to be

[@andyiribar8579]

Hello boy, I started to watch your video for a moment and I finished watching it completely. One question, do you live in the United States?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Usually I don't respond to being called "boy", but yes, I'm in United States

[@89rc_dude33]

Man you are a Legend. Awesome Video. Apreciate your input.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thank you, much appreciated!

[@rick6328]

Kudos to you awesome job seeing it to through. Thanks for all the information one stop DIY. Way to go. I would like to know how many miles were on the engine/vehicle.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Much appreciated! This car had 112k miles on it when this was done.

[@Fujit_01]

This is better than watching a movie.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Much appreciated 🫡

[@nathanmorgan3195]

Best KZbin video out ❕ well detailed , good job

[@Mechani_Cole]

Ayy! Thanks for the comment✌🏽

[@jeremyberg9482]

You could have just been honest and said you wanted to pull the motor so you could have this cool video lol. Good job bro! I see you owning a shop soon.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Ah yes! You know how much fun it is to pull out these 3.2's. Can't wait to do it again, just for funsies😅 Appreciate the compliment bro! I thought of owning a shop, but after working on peoples cars for years I decided I don't like dealing with certain customers and the car repair field is full of these certain customers😅 Maybe one day though

[@1szymon2ful]

@@Mechani_Cole Well, I have a 5.2. Yup, cam griddle seal. And yup again - engine out - not enough room in 5.2.

[@Mechani_Cole]

I just picked up a 4.2 and same thing🥴 Cam girdle seal leaking, engine gotta come out. Damn you Audi! The 5.2 is huge! I swear they had to make the car longer to fit the engine in there🙄

[@Mechani_Cole]

I just picked up a 4.2 and same thing🥴 Cam girdle seal leaking, engine gotta come out. Damn you Audi! The 5.2 is huge! I swear they had to make the car longer to fit the engine in there🙄

[@1szymon2ful]

@@Mechani_Cole aand 5.2 can't be separated from the transmission. So I'll have even more fun. However mine aren't leaking as bad as yours have been on the 3.2 and car runs ok with no misfires, and becouse i don't have enough space currently it'll have to wait a bit.

[@nanieberoin4902]

Please make a content about 4.2 fsi timing chain. The unit that im working on right now don't have that threaded camshaft to install the cam holder.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Never again! Haha, I hate the 4.2 and likely won't ever get one again.

[@nanieberoin4902]

@@Mechani_Cole you have a cheat code on that buddy, cuz I need to remove the girdle and replace the gasket.

[@Mechani_Cole]

There is a cheat to it if your girdle seal is leaking. Haven't tried it myself yet, but there is an option

[@nanieberoin4902]

@@Mechani_Cole do you mind if I ask, before I remove it. I already to pull the engine down. I don't even know where the timing marks are. 😂😅

[@Mechani_Cole]

Yeah I was trying to find it. Check this out - kzbin.info/www/bejne/aHvEoGuJn9Scqqssi=vK6vUizy80cf3H7k

[@Work-ty5ye]

Hi do you have to replace the flywheel and torque converter bolts ? Thank you , your videos are very helpful.

[@robertficek7586]

Audi uses a lot of torque to yield bolts including the cam phase bolts and for legal and warranty reasons they must specify to replace them, in reality if the thread pitch is intact and no issues threading in the old bolt back in, its ok to reuse, i have reused many bolts 2-3 times without issue.

[@Noel127]

@0:22 is that a damn tear or hole in the head !?! on the edge of the lip

[@Mechani_Cole]

No hole or tear in the head

[@kissumisha]

I had a camshaft sensor fault this week. Been running some tests and I am starting to fear the chain has stretched a bit... I am not looking forward to it...

[@Mechani_Cole]

Most likely the issue unfortunately

[@kissumisha]

@@Mechani_Cole How long did it take to pull the engine out? I think it's the best to do and just do everything in one go. Thx (great video by the way)

[@Mechani_Cole]

Maybe about 4-6 hours. Hard to tell because I had to put the passnger side back together so I could rotate the engine to get to the torque converter bolts. I would actually say removing the torque converter bolts is one of the hardest parts of this job by far. Craxy wierd angle, had to order special short triple square to get in there on extensions. Sketchy because they are so tight they feel like they are going to break. The rear timing cover is also very difficult. I ruined 1 rear main seal trying to install and had to clean the rtv off after applying and do it again. Lots of potential headaches. It ended up taking 2 months in total because I kept having to order parts or new hardware. The local dealership defintely knows me on a first name basis I've been there so often😅

[@Mechani_Cole]

@kissumisha also the specialty tools needed and the engine hoist, everything adds up. I spent around $1800-2000 in parts, tools, supplies and hardware altogether.

[@kissumisha]

@@Mechani_Cole thank you for the comprehensive explanation. I'm going to have to sleep on this one, need to see if it's worth the money and the time... I'll still run a few more checks, hoping it's not that bad.

[@boskokukucka5588]

Excellent video thank you! I am contemplating if I should do my timing chain at home.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thank you! I defintely do not suggest this job if you are a beginner. There is so many things that can go wrong. However, if you have extreme patience and all the correct tools, any one can do it. The risk is having to pay someone anyways after trying and possibly making a mistake.

[@thomaslefler5242]

I have looked for a 2 years for a video on reassembling this engine that included the cover over over the rear timing cover. I have never been able to get the rest Main seal on without damaging the seal. Every plastic cup I get does not fit over the flange the flywheel bolts too

[@Mechani_Cole]

Do it without the flywheel bolts. Also, you can grind down the alignment dowels at an angle, this will help it move more freely.

[@r100scammellpioneer9]

Brilliant effort,,Impressive work

[@Mechani_Cole]

Much appreciated!

[@StudioGoldsmith]

Lol great job man. I've got the v10 version of this motor. The spark plug tube seals were toast.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Appreciate that! Yeah I can imagine! Did you end up replacing them?

[@StudioGoldsmith]

@@Mechani_Cole The engine is off the car. Waiting for the parts to arrive.. Do you think I should replace the gaskets under the timing chain tensioners? My mechanic doesn't think they need to be, since the timing chain setup only has 8k miles on it.

[@Mechani_Cole]

@StudioGoldsmith probably not if they were replaced with the tensioners 8k miles ago

[@maximilliantjhi1931]

Great video ever for 3.2 L Audi engine. I own a 2010 Q5 with almost 124 k miles. The engine runs fine but thinking about doing the exact same thing. I also used FCP as my source for parts. Are you interested to do it again? and If so, where are you located?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Hey, thanks for the comment! At this time I'm not taking in more work until about mid September and I just moved to Las Vegas🤙🏼

[@ETMotorsports]

hmmm - I know this is an old video but you torqued the cam adjusters before releasing the tensioners at 1.08? pretty sure you have to do it the other way around - otherwise the sprockets won't be move when you release the tensioner...

[@Mechani_Cole]

Interesting point. I wonder if it's true. So far, this car is still running and driving perfect these days almost 2 years later.

[@ETMotorsports]

@Mechani_Cole I suspect what happened is the chain jumped through the lower sprocket and ultimately everything worked out, but the process very clearly says you don't torque the adjusters before pulling the pin... what happens is the cams are locked with the tool, the adjusters are free to rotate so when you pull the pin, the adjusters get to where they need to be and then you torque them to the cams, which are timed with the tools... anyways - glad it's still working - this could have caused headache

[@Mechani_Cole]

I always appreciate any extra input. Helpful for any readers that are doing this job and watching the video for sure. If I ever have to do this job again, I'll keep that in mind🤟🏼

[@jilboy]

Cole…have a good day ! 👍

[@majstermarian2301]

Hi, do you know how to set in what position of the variable phase wheel?

[@Yahsharal864]

Nice video I been watching your Channel and appreciate your work… got a question?? I’m about to change my upper tension left side by the way got a 2010 Audi A63.0t supercharger and before I tear everything down I want to make sure the car is at TDC . What your recommendation? Of course I’m going to by the cam lock kit but first things first TDC . Thank you in advance… also do you have a video of that procedure?

[@Mechani_Cole]

There is a pin that gets inserted in the engine under the driver side engine mount. You have to remove the hex bolt, put it in position at TDC, and the insert the pin to keep the crank locked

[@Yahsharal864]

@ got you, bro when are you gonna drop another video?

[@Mechani_Cole]

@Yahsharal864 yesterday, today and tomorrow hopefully. Back at it posting a lot. Have more Audi content coming

[@unprofessionalmechanic8466]

If excess amount of sealant is applied where you showed, it would be impossible for it to clogup cam shaft lubricating channels as oil lubing camshafts comes from oil channes fed trough by oil pump and filtered. What can happen, if it falls off and makes its way in to oil pan, it could plug up or limit oil flow trough oil sump.

[@Mechani_Cole]

This is what I mean't, but yeah. Its only small pieces, but they can clog some areas. Likely, no, but very possible. Either way RTV bad here lol. Thanks for watching and sharing🤟🏼

[@soldinri]

What a great video. It looks like the cam gear bolt snapped off on my Q5, since it is an interference engine, I am assuming the valves are toast? or..... can I replace the one gam gear and camshaft?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Wow, I have actually never seen that personally. Did it happen while driving? Might be best to have the head removed and dropped off at a machine shop to make sure. If it's bad, they can rebuild it. Doesn't sound to good, but I have seen engines saved that are interference. You just don't know until you take it apart usually if it's still good. Are you doing the work yourself?

[@The_outdoorsman.]

Great information here man thank you so much! it will be much easier to do the dredded job I have in front of me

[@fredriku8071]

Great work! Question for you: can you exchange the cam chain at the same time without removing the engine? My chain has stretched on bank 1 and it looks like it would be possible… or?

[@Mechani_Cole]

I don't think so. It might be possible, but surely your other chains will need replacing as well. Having one with no slack and then a used chain on one side is going to cause some issues I imagine

[@fredriku8071]

@@Mechani_Cole I agree - both chains will be exchanged just for peace of mind, but I don’t have access to remove engine, and it looked like the chain can come of with the middle back cover still on. Or at least I hope so. I was just curious if you saw that as an alternative. Thanks!

[@Mechani_Cole]

I haven't seen it done personally. But it may be possible. Would just suck to get that far and then not be able to

[@frankdigiorgio4169]

Phenomenal Video. Thanks for all your hard work putting this together! I'm replacing the valve stem seals on a 2007 3.2 so I have to get into the heads a little deeper. I'm a little confused about the crank locking pin. Whats the purpose of the original Pin and what does the larger diameter pin included with the kit do? Does it simply lock the crank in position so it can't move when you remove the cam girdle? I would truly appreciate a little more info on that step. Thx so much bro. Great resource that's much appreciated!!

[@Mechani_Cole]

Good question! Yes, it blocks the crank from rotating. Not sure the purpose of the original pin, I think it's basically an access hole for the locking pin. Since these have 4 timing chains it locks the engine in place to avoid messing up the timing.

[@apocalypse4312]

This was such a godsend. Your timing guides actually look to be in great shape! What was the mileage on the motor at the time of filming this?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thanks! This engine had about 125k miles on it. Ran great after and sold it about a year ago now

[@OZIO84]

Very nice!🥸 You're the Man👊👏

[@allenmason4283]

Cole, this is a great DIY. It's always a relief to know others run into major snags like broken/frozen bolts, etc. since it seems to happen to all of us. Question: when removing the cam girdle on one side of my engine, the valve springs popped the cams out of position when I took off the cam lock. The engine is in TDC but four of the cam lobes are pointed directly down with the cams loose on the head and won't allow the cams to sit in the journals with the cam lock holes facing up. Was this why your passenger side girdle sat up off the head and tightening the girdle bolts forced the cams into the rockers, compressing the valve springs?

[@Mechani_Cole]

@allen mason Good question, yes, this is why the torque sequence is important I believe. It pulls the girdle down and presses the springs down in an even manner. Pretty normal, but you want to leave the lock on until fully installed. And then you want to rotate the engine a few times when finished and make sure the holes on the cams are still lining up.

[@allenmason4283]

@@Mechani_Cole This worked perfectly. I was surprised that the valve springs compressed so easily but after making four passes on the girdle bolts in sequence, the girdle tightened to the head. Great tip on the homemade dowels using a screwdriver. I lost my 20 yr old #3 Philips but it was worth the sacrifice.

[@Mechani_Cole]

That's awesome to hear, great work!

[@allenmason4283]

@@Mechani_Cole After buttoning everything up, I experienced all three cylinders misfiring on bank 2. I did a compression test and found bank 2 cylinders at 80-90 psi vs. bank 1 at 185 psi, creating concern of bent valves. Any thoughts on what would have caused this? Bank 2 cams are still in time based on removing the valve cover for inspection.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Rotating the engine when it was locked up could have bent them. Or they were bent before hand and just now noticed. That sucks!

[@methafuture]

Yooo my guy im gonna watch this vid but i have an 06 a6 had the same problem replaced the valve cover and the timing chain cover seal still leaked like crazy til last summer the water pump went again and the tech fixed it and put blue devil stop leak and it worked! In hindsight i can remeber hearing a rattle on start up but the car wouldnt start towed it to the shop the guy said a sensor. Long story not so short i the timing chain jumped a tooth and now i dont know what to do he said it needs an engine

[@teerex9149]

Do you know the life expectancy of the tensioner?

[@theprocrastination3819]

Hey MechaniC I love your videos. Is this procedure similar for an Audi Q7 V8 FSI BAR?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Similar yes! Chain is in the back, but there may be some small differences. The 4.2 has the EGR system back there too to remove. Not too crazy. To get to the chains you can remove the engine or the trans to get access

[@theprocrastination3819]

@@Mechani_ColeTHX

[@theprocrastination3819]

​@@Mechani_Cole"I'm trying to remove the timing chain covers, but the EGR system is in the way. Any tips on how to get it out? Also, when I opened the timing chain covers, a lot of coolant spilled out."

[@Mechani_Cole]

@theprocrastination3819 you have to remove the egr system first. And there shouldn't be any coolant in your timing cover. What year and model do you have?

[@theprocrastination3819]

@@Mechani_ColeIssue: Can't fully remove the grind girdle to replace gaskets because the EGR system is stuck to the timing chain belt covers. Inside the covers, there's a pipe blocking access even more. Additional Problem: Coolant leaked when disconnecting the EGR system from the timing belt covers. I suspect it's normal since the EGR cools the engine. Solution: Removing the engine from the bottom seems like the only option, but I'm reluctant to buy and install a hoist just for this. Vehicle Model: Audi Q7 4.2 4lb FSI BAR S-line I'm frustrated with this unnecessary EGR system causing so much trouble. Considering reaching out to an online automotive community for advice. PS: I was already thinking to replace the gasket while the chain is still tight and put it back on .... but I think that might not be a great idea ... my goal is to replace the gaskets between the grind girdle since it has massive oil lekas and the usual errors for for lean banks

[@mchaudry9811]

Nice work!

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@JustGameEverything]

Fantastic video! What was the size of the triple square you used when you where removing the bolts from the torque converter?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thank you! If I remember they were M10 or M12. Best to just have the whole Triple Square set since its about the same cost as 1 single socket.

[@mauricioflores987]

Can you remove the heads to do a gasket? I have one that overheated and needs new gaskets, same engine .

[@sanuvirsan6681]

How much it cost in total. I have to do Time chain on my A6 3.0T soon. Appreciate all the help.

[@Mechani_Cole]

I spent around $900 in parts. The 3.0 may be a little more. Just depends on what you replace while in there

[@sanuvirsan6681]

@@Mechani_Cole thanks really appreciate that.

[@atrain132]

34:34 do you have a trick in order to remove the upper, and lower coolant hoses? I tried it once before, and it took several hours without breaking it.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Lots of penetrating oil, and a lot of force. These were a HUGE pain in the ass. If I remember correctly, I put a flat head on the edge of the plastic and used a rubber mallet to smack it in the right direction. I pulled so hard I was certain it was going to break. I hate these hose connections, called "quick fittings" but anything but quick lol

[@cobie1990]

I know this video is kinda of old but i have a question when you remove the tensioner from the timing chain could you remove the whole cyclinder out if you wanted to?

[@Mechani_Cole]

The whole cylinder? Not sure what you mean 🤔

[@cobie1990]

@@Mechani_Cole i have a cyclinder i need to pull out because i got a tap bit stuck on it and the spot that its in i can really get it out so o have to take the left side cylinder out because its where my front water pipe connect to. I wish i could show you a picture for what im talking about

[@Mechani_Cole]

The only thing called a cylinder in your engine is the actual cylinders connected to the rods that spin in the engine. Send a pic to my instagram

[@NechtoS]

великолепное видео - спасибо предстоит такая работа но я не увидел как ты выставлял метки распредвала =(

[@jijzer3284]

did you replace the chains ?

[@Mechani_Cole]

No

[@jijzer3284]

@@Mechani_Cole thanks for your reply. I see its over 1 year ago you did this job . last week my tensioner on the right side gave up. i am only worried that the new tensioner is direct at the end

[@BabyJesus1987]

which engine code is your 3.2? I got the one with all the actuators in the girdle. Gonna be fun...

[@Mechani_Cole]

Yeah, mine was the model before that. I forgot the code. There are, however, some sleeves a company makes you can slide in the spark plug tube, and it prevents the leak. Haven't done it myself, but that is an option that may be easier

[@BabyJesus1987]

@@Mechani_Cole I've seen those, the weird thing about mine is I don't believe it has the spark plug hole girdle gaskets. From everyone I've talked to it seems to be the anerobic sealant instead. Gonna find out for sure in the next few days when I pull the girdle off. Unfortunately, like yours, mine suffered a repair where they used RTV for the girdle gasket too.

[@rafighulami1471]

Well done,u did it fantastic.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Thanks for watching🤟🏼

[@teerex9149]

Can it be a black silicone sealant or does it have to be green?

[@Mechani_Cole]

For the green anaerobic sealant, this can NOT be replaced with RTV. If you do that, you can clog oil galleys, and it will likely leak after you put it together. Either do it right or do it twice. Your choice @teerex9149 🫡

[@teerex9149]

@@Mechani_Cole I noticed oil leaking on the alternator I checked if it was the valve cover gaskets seems to be coming from the side of the camshaft itself.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Possible. The vacuum pump always leaks right there too

[@Jfjs58-g]

Damn screw.. I’m about to do the tensioners on mine, very similar engine but on a Touareg supercharged. I just wonder can you take the upper chains out with the main timing cover in place?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Good question, yes you can if you are talking about the lower cover

[@Jfjs58-g]

@@Mechani_Cole thanks for your reply and congratulations for the good job on your car. Yes I’m thinking it’s worth replacing the chains together with the tensioners.. I’m really not looking forward to remove the engine cuz I’m going to have to do that outside and on a bit of a slope 😊

[@picflight]

Why not replace timing chain and guides on the bottom while you had it all disassembled?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Good question, simply didn't have the funds at the time. Wasn't even intending on pull the engine. Needed my car back at the time too

[@picflight]

@@Mechani_Cole, yes a tough and real turn for a DIY’er. Nevertheless, your instructions and compilations are excellent!! Very inspirational video, and a must watch for home mechanics to learn best practices and good techniques.

[@jamesrouse2245]

Dude how In the heck did you get the socket on the crank tool it seems like my fans in the way no matter what size ratchet or socket I use

[@Mechani_Cole]

Gotta put car in service position usually. There's a video on my page, it helps give the extra room.

[@denysvankuche7068]

I think I need to replace drivers and might as well do passenger timing chain tensioner. ( 2008 Audi a6 ) would that be possible to do without removing the engine? And most importantly without removing the valve cover ?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Yes and yes. But a good time to change your valve cover to and very easy to do so. Best tip, start on the bottom bolts first on the timing covers. If you strip one, you'll likely have to pull the engine like I did

[@denysvankuche7068]

@@Mechani_Cole cool. Thanks for the input. It will be an interesting project. Hopefully without any crazy surprises. Cheers :)

[@c52jrear]

Very nice and helping video!!!

[@Mechani_Cole]

🫡

[@clementfpv5054]

Hi, thanks so much for the work, i'mwondering why you didn't tensio' the chain with the tool when initially torquing the camshaft adjusters ? That's what they say on the audi documentation, I did it engine in but now I have worse values on block 93 despite original tensionners being worn out... Did you check your block 93 values after all of this ?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Good question. It's possible that I missed that step. Was my first time doing it myself. I did check the values afterwards and all was lined up as far as I remember. This car is still running to this day, I just don't have it anymore.

[@clementfpv5054]

@@Mechani_Cole nice, good for you, I might just end up pulling the engine for a complete timing overhaul because the values I get make no sens with new tensionners

[@Mechani_Cole]

To be honest, I would pull the engine everytime. There was so much I was going to miss if I didn't pull it

[@clementfpv5054]

@@Mechani_Cole yes, just to bad I killed my hands getting those dam' torx out, you know the pain 🤣. May I ask what made you decide to change the tensionners ? Did you have codes or rough running ? And did you happen to check the 93 values before pulling the engine ?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Familiar with the pain haha, no I didn't check before I did the job. I ONLY started this job to change my spark plugs. It's like some sick joke that ended up here. I did have chain rattle on cold startups, so I knew it needed it. I went to change the plugs and found oil on the plug tube, it was the cam girdle seal so I had to take everything out just to get to it. There was a lot I should of done different probably. I was in a hurry, on a budget and my first time haha

[@naderjuice2825]

what a nightmare worst engine design ever you must really love that car you have such a good attitude working on it lol

[@Mechani_Cole]

I was thinking the same thing. Awful design, but great engine when in full working order. Thanks I try to go with the flow of life, there was several cuss words edited out I'm sure😅

[@robot944]

Amazing video, you have way more patience than I ever will. After being on both side of the bench over the past 40 years you would do far better with those "certain customers" than I did. Just out of curiosity, what is the mileage/kms on the engine?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Much appreciated! The mileage was 118,000 when this service was preformed. This car was also neglected before as well, the history wasn't so good. Beautiful car now and drives wonderful😁

[@slym2f]

What is the bit you use for the flywheel

[@Mechani_Cole]

Triple Square sockets - amzn.to/42nEU2S

[@ccristiano5494]

Amazing! I learned a lot watching your video. I have a 04 TT 3.2 Quattro that I need to replace the upper tensioners. Just wondering if and where you found the broken pieces of the tensioner and was there any particular reason why you didn't change the lower tensioner when you did the rear main seal?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Great questions! So I found a few of the broken pieces in the bottom and laying through out the area back there. I imagine its possible there is some pieces in the oil pan too now that I think about it. I didn't replace the other tensioner mainly because it looked good and I also didn't have that part ordered. I never expected to pull the whole rear case off and I was in a time crunch. I finished this car the day before Christmas last year and then drove it 600 miles the next day😅 But in the future, if I am ever going to pull the engine out, I'm going to do all the chains and the tensioners. However, you can do just the upper tensioners while its in the car. The stripped bolt caused me to pull the motor. But orignally, I planned on doing it all while it was installed. Feel free to ask any other questions, happy to help! Actually about to pick a 4.2 Audi this weekend🤞🏻

[@teerex9149]

Do you have to remove the locking pin before you turn the engine for a test to see if it's in good timing?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Yes. Otherwise the engine won't be able to rotate

[@teerex9149]

@Mechani_Cole Thanks man big help

[@chrisaliaga8350]

hello man, I have the same noise as you at the intake level, it sounds like a clicking sound (clicliclic) do you know where it can come from ?? thanks to you 🙏🙏

[@Mechani_Cole]

Most of the time it's the tensioners or the chain slapping. Sometimes it's just how an Audi sounds. Hard to tell without seeing it in person to be honest

[@chrisaliaga8350]

@@Mechani_Cole the sound comes out at the intake manifold which we see right in the middle of the engine, the gray cover. but perhaps it is also the chain which resonates

[@theecuconnection]

As far as what cam girdle sealant, doesn’t Audi also recommend not changing the trans fluid when ZF, the manufacturer of the transmission, says it’s every ~60k? Just curious your thoughts on that.

[@Mechani_Cole]

Yes, they do suggest that. However, the fluid should be changed with Lifeguard fluid every 60-80k. I just did the trans fluid in the 4.2 A6 and have a video coming soon on it. Just have to get the correct fluid, but the filter and fluid should be changed.

[@Viperwon]

Man great video I wish I found it sooner. Ive had a b7 a4 3.2 down for a while and I suspect a head gasket based on coolant loss and some whiteish smoke when I had it running. would it be worth a rebuild with all of the labor cost or just buying a new motor and replacing?

[@Mechani_Cole]

Good question, it really depends on a lot of variables. Like how many miles is on the old engine, was there damage internally when it failed, has it ever over heated. And of course the cost of everything. Sometimes going with a new motor is nice if you plan to keep the car for a long time.

[@Viperwon]

@@Mechani_Cole Thanks for the reply! Yeah those variables have been weighing on my decision for a while as its been sitting. Mileage was around 135k, surprising no chain tensioner issues as its a 2005.5 build The car did overheat before, I'm not sure if the heads got warped or any other low end damage. Thats why I figured a whole rebuild might cost more in labor/time but I would have all new parts instead of taking a chance on a random block motor? Thanks for your help! Its sad to see her just sitting in my garage while I figure out what to do with it lol

[@Mechani_Cole]

I would definitely look around at used motor options. But the only problem is, you will have to do a lot of maintenance to either engine before putting it back in. If you get a used engine, it will still be smart to replace the tensioners and all that. Much easier too since it's out of the car. But if your block is good, and the heads are good, then rebuilding might not be a bad option. Only issue here is, you won't know if the heads are good or if the block is good until it's taken apart and the heads are at the machine shop. Or option 3, buy a low mileage junk yard 3.2 or one from Ebay motors and slap it in as is and drive it until it has issues😬😅

[@Viperwon]

@@Mechani_Cole Yeah I figured the cost of a good mechanic like yourself + all the new parts and time would cost more than just swapping it out and taking a chance. I will probably go this route, i had to build up some capital before pulling the trigger, as you know its just throwing $$$ at these hahaha Thanks for the insight, I just got to find a reputable shop around that wont screw me over, the front end is off and everything is torn down, the old motor is ready to be taken out. Have you had any luck or known any stories about motors from ebay? I know they say "warranty" but can I really trust them that it was tested and will work lol. I would order all new gaskets and tensioners like you said , get it all done while its out

[@carsandgaming991]

Is the crank like locked up when the tool is in the hole. My crank isn't locked when tool is in (cams are lined up) im confused atm. Any help would be great 😃

[@Mechani_Cole]

Should be locked up yes. That tool is supposed to prevent the crank from turning

[@carsandgaming991]

Okay i will need to play around with the position of the crank tool. Thank you for confirmation 😊