ROMEX Cable Support Requirements (2024)

[@BackyardMaine]

Need a cool work station like mine? Try FlexiSpot! 🌟 Use my code “24BDYTB50” for extra $50 off on the E7 Plus Desk! Trust me, it's a rare treat! FlexiSpot E7 Plus Standing Desk: bit.ly/4aM11Dg (US) FlexiSpot E7 Plus Standing Desk: bit.ly/4c6iasg (CAN)

[@jimb9459]

Thank you

[@stphnalln]

I wish everyone on KZbin could explain things as clearly and succinctly as this man.

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you!

[@loganmartin1682]

Seriously I don’t even have electrician skill I’d hire anyone for anything hard but I still love this guy’s videos. Keep on explaining!

[@erickrosito3659]

I am glad he didn’t use the word succinctly in his explanation

[@DoubleDoubleWithOnions]

My head is spinning. But I think I got it. I'll watch it again tomorrow.

[@MyClutteredGarage]

John, your channel is like an online electrician course. Can’t tell you how much I appreciate it!

[@BackyardMaine]

Wow, thanks Ed! Very much appreciated my friend.

[@BryanTorok]

Thank for removing the confusion. Again, a video very cleanly done without any extra fumbling around and no repetition and respectful of my time. Thank you.

[@LumenCache]

This is by far the most concise explanation of the codes. You should be writing them!

[@MaineZukah]

From a non electrician, this is an excellent video, explains clearly the rules and where they come from. Great stuff!

[@BackyardMaine]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.

[@tricia8044]

Thank you so much. I've found myself doing more of my own electrical work over the past few years. Not by choice - it's just become increasingly hard to get on an electrician's schedule where I live. I have a great respect for what they do and find myself doing all kinds of research before I attempt anything. Your channel is a big help to me in making sure I do things properly and safely.

[@BackyardMaine]

I love hearing this. That is the purpose of the channel. Thank you.

[@nukiepoo]

Yes you can have service loops at 1-gang NM boxes w/o clamps: you can leave a loop with a staple right next to the box opening. If you ever need that service loop slack, just remove the box and that staple is right there for easy removal. Oftentimes, we have need to convert a single gang switch box into 2, 3 or even 4 gang -such as for Lutron RadioRa devices. We prefer Allied's fiberglass box because they're easy to break out with a long nose pliers and the device holes are factory threaded unlike many PVC boxes. Started in the trade in 1975 been in business for over 25yrs. You and I are brothers in the trade

[@BackyardMaine]

There is minimal bending radius to consider if the staple is close to the box.

[@weloveups831]

This channel is awesome. Info is given in a straight forward way, without a lot of wasted words.😊

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you so much.. I have another video going live tomorrow about a very little know method of wiring 3-way switched.

[@doug8718]

Excellent videos! I like that you are brief and concise...no time-wasting rambling. This illustrates how the NEC can be a little complicated. Requirements are spread in different areas.

[@BackyardMaine]

Thanks you.

[@jackpestaner6925]

Excellent review, I may still fail my first rough-in inspection, but at least not because of cable stapling. Almost finished with a complete rewire to current code of my 2500 sq ft 100 year house that had functioning knob and tube. Really appreciate your videos, thank you.

[@BackyardMaine]

Glad it was helpful! I love being able to share my experience now that I'm retired. Thanks for watching.

[@kirok3184]

I know this is old, but, did you pass inspection? If you had a hard ass inspector that didn't have his whiskey for breakfast, he will fail you one way or another. I redid many rooms in my house 15 years ago. I went 'by the book'. I didn't want to do it twice or three times. The local inspector, now deceased, told me I should have gotten an inspection. Then he asked if the walls were already up. I said they were. He said, "too late now."

[@jackpestaner6925]

@@kirok3184 The City of Richmond IMHO has a great Buildings Dept. They allow you to schedule a consultation with the inspector, so I had him give me a walk-thru as i was doing the work, and resolved several issues. So when the actual cover inspection came along I passed. I still need to finish a few things to get the final, but figure that should go well.

[@carolmartin7042]

Thank you. Worked on wiring repairs around age 14 or 15. Trained by military electricians. Boy have things changed! Glen M

[@GoCoyote]

This was a better lesson than what I got in my apprenticeship.

[@nooneyouknowhere6148]

I started in 1981. I do not remember anyone even thinking about "service loops" until i started watching these youtube videos. Is that really a thing in some parts of the country? I have never experienced a situation where i wished i had a service loop. The idea has always been, keep the wire neat and out of the way of insulation etc.

[@BackyardMaine]

It isn’t a thing around here. ME, NH, VT, MA. But I hear that it is in the south. I have never left a service loop unless I knew something may need to be moved.

[@ronblack7870]

it's probably a reaction to having to do work on old boxes that were installed 40 yrs ago that have only 3 inches of wire so it's really hard to work in them. so people think well for the future electrician working in this box i will leave extra service loop. only reason i can think is if the outlet burns up and wires need to be cut back it would be good if there was an extra 6 inches in the wall.

[@paaao]

Service loops are for handymen, DIYers, and slack jawed yokels. The NEC states this pretty clearly. You just have to read 16 different sections of the code and cross reference them like a crossword puzzle.

[@1djbecker]

Much of the reasoning behind leaving a service loop has been obsoleted by Wago and Ideal connectors. You can snap three Wago Lever-Nuts on a cable with only 1" of wire extending. The 'splice' style takes only about 3/4", but I don't think any are UL approved at this time.

[@SaltMinerOU812]

​@@BackyardMaineprobably the best places for those would be like ceiling lights I would think especially of the suspended ceiling variety

[@Bob.W.]

Subscribed. Clear presentation. Thx. I worked as an apprentice electrician for Lymburner Electric, Bar Harbor, Maine in 1972. Enjoyed working on those fancy estates.

[@davefoc]

This was a very useful video that covered a lot of areas where I had only a rough idea of what the rules were. Thank you.

[@BackyardMaine]

My pleasure.. Thanks for watching.

[@FDJT-sj7id]

This is a great video and at the perfect time. I plan to install a couple of eyeball lights in my ceiling to show off some artwork. I have outlets on the wall in line with where I want to put the lights, but I was afraid I would have to rip out the drywall just to secure the Romex up the stud. Your video gave me the “get out of jail free” card I needed.

[@BackyardMaine]

Glad it was helpful.. Thanks for watching.

[@joedelucia6719]

Dude! You explain this stuff so well.

[@thomasglessner6067]

Love the bonus romex tips. Always good to hear the code from different people. Thanks for ypur efforts.

[@IncendiaDivinus]

!! Some people were meant to teach . You sir , are one of them . Stay safe !! Thank you for the information.

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you!

[@robmenzies862]

in Ontario you are not allowed to put more than one cable under a support clamp. Also, service loops are manditory.

[@thomaskingsbury6560]

Apparently the code varies across the country or the ordinances can have requirements above the minimum requirements in the code, for instance in Houston we cannot stack Romex on top of each other we have to use stacking blocks or brace between the studs and secure individually.

[@snort455]

Great stuff. Gracias. Keep in mind, none of this matters unless you like to do the job right.

[@StealthMode139]

Ty always like to keep up with the new codes and technology. ET's never stop learning.

[@SaltMinerOU812]

Cool I roughed in my new basement room and the only mistake I made is using blue staples for double wire. so I'll change them up to the longer red ones and everything's good. Also good to know about being able to put two Romex in one of the openings of the box I think it'll be a neater look

[@markusallport1276]

My ex-boss was a cheap fu... he would get the cheapest supplies imaginable. We always followed code regardless of the crap we had to work with, and only 3 times did we fail inspection. There were 16 guys on our team, but one guy always decided to do stuff his way and got us ding'ed all three times. We hardly ever secured cables (romex), within 8 inches of the box, it was more closer to 6" and we never had an issue with that. Clamp in the box or not, 6" was our max for a staple.

[@Iamdebug]

Informative with all the gotchas, thanks for the explanation, I just ran ceiling lights to a quad gang control box in the attic, while it sounds like the ceiling light boxes don't need secured due to running straight in to the support trussing the control box the cable runs in to need to be secured on that end as well as at the box which it is.

[@Yummyfudge]

Thanks for the content, especially for digging into the code and clearly explaining it. I actually paused the video and pulled out my codebook to see if I could figure out the code violation on my own before you explained it in detail. No, I didn't figure it out on my own, but I did run down "messenger-supported wiring". Learned something new! Also... the 2023 code does make some very minor changes to 314.17, but most jurisdictions are still yet to adopt it so :shrug:

[@fritzmiller9792]

Great video John. Best one I have seen yet of the dozen or so I have watched. I am probably a little giddy that you proved service loops are not legal (except of course when clamped and not over the 18" length maximum). I think service loops defeat the purpose of securing cables as the cable can accidentally be rolled out of the wall before or during the final enclosure of the wall. It's also very wasteful with only a incredibly slim chance of ever being used to 'save' time ( but that's another entire discussion). Bottom line, the service loops I have seen installed are almost ALL noncompliant. 👍

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you my friend.. I don't like them either. The big round loops you will see similar to the one I made in the video are always a code violation. The code change adding the 18" maximum cable came in the 2020 update. I think or it could have been the 2017. I'm sure it was made to limit service loops. I have another video going live this evening on a not so common method of wiring three way switches. Thanks for dropping by..

[@jasonwiggins5615]

Great video! Its amazing the things you learn even after being in the trade for over 20 years.

[@BackyardMaine]

Been at it for 40 years and I'm still learning too..

[@randallthomas5207]

The stapling adjacent to the box is to keep cables from getting snagged and jerked off the wall. When you buy new code books always buy the commentary that goes with it. The commentary explains what the authors/committees were addressing and what they want you to do. The only arguments I have ever won with an inspector were by reading them the commentary so the understood what the code was actually saying.

[@honesdalefuf6852]

Great vid, that Exact question years ago was on my Resi inspection test , mn. Box how far to staple…question did not say type of box clamps/ kos I had to debate the question to the test makers .

[@buzzsah]

Question: A friend and I were both putting a small addistion on our homes, we live about 50 mile apart. Both have permits but neither of us are lic. Anyway he used WAGO on his connections and was passed by the town inspector, I asked my town if I can use them, and was told no, I had to use the twisted wire nuts. Both in same state, different towns. Hmm and why the differences?

[@BackyardMaine]

Some inspectors will try to force there on rules or maybe the town has local code amendments. They are legal to use in any states per the adopted NEC

[@jackl9922]

I enjoy your videos. I’m not licensed, trained from people who are and DIY. Passed main panel replacement. However, I’ve made a few mistakes learn later on code compliance, but not concerned enough to go back since think safe. Since I am not licensed, I will not do for others. Fear liability.

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you..

[@woodstream6137]

I have a finished garage with an unfinished loft. They have some plywood up there and some exposed area. The home inspector just assumed the bulbs were burned out, but the previous owners ran a length of romex up there and never connected it. If i understand this right: i only need to support the wire if i travel more than 4.5ft along a joist. I will need to drill a hole through a joist if i need to cross it. I need to leave 6in of working wire inside the box. I need to check the installed junction boxes for that part. I know they are metal, and installed in the ceiling/floor going to outlets. My goal is to replace the current lights with motion sensor, led, camera.

[@BackyardMaine]

You have it right..

[@woodstream6137]

Thanks

[@What1zTyme]

Great information! Clearly explained! Good job! Thank you!

[@BackyardMaine]

Glad it was helpful! Thank you.

[@Satchmoeddie]

Our local variances are actually tighter than the NEC's for a change. We have to staple NM cable within 6 inches of a box or fixture. No clue why until now. Rather than explaining no clamp boxes they just went with 6 inches for everything.

[@Samlol23_drrich]

I just found your channel and I’m glad I did. Fantastic information explained clearly and concisely. Thank you. subbed.

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you so much and Welcome aboard!

[@aubreyroche5080]

Yeah, long time Electrician here too... Ha.. Some of the best times were doing custom Homes... Now I'm all Industrial... My Trade has been good to me.

[@crschoen123]

So clear! Very helpful!

[@BackyardMaine]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.

[@patmcbride9853]

Thank you! I am going to run some 4/3 romex and didn't know if the rubber lined cable clamps that are attached with screws would be acceptable and don't want to be using large staples.

[@mrcryptozoic817]

Apparently, in my house the rule was "If you have staples left in the box, you haven't used enough". But there are only the bare minimum number of receptacles. I know because I was trying to add some.

[@aspensulphate]

"Trying"? Hmm...

[@ChrisWard64658]

Thanks for the clarification.

[@r7j7t7]

Another remarkable clear and concise explanation. Thanks John. One question regarding staples...actually two. Sometimes NM cable is run along the webbing of engineered joists. The webbing is not very thick so the end of the staple might protrude from the other side and if one tried to use a red staple for two wires it would definitely protrude...which would defeat the purpose of using a longer staple (so I have never done it). Are there rules for that? Also what are the rules for avoiding "bundling" violations for NM cable?

[@diytwoincollege7079]

The standing desk is a code violation. The vertical corner radius on each corner is .0005 under the minimum spec.

[@BackyardMaine]

Ok.

[@markproulx1472]

Thank goodness that we have eagle-eyed viewers like you to keep us safe!🤣

[@jde1780]

That measurement is only valid if you had a good set of calibrated eyeballs. Otherwise, 0.0" to 0.25"r is acceptable. The only requirement there is that the edge doesn't give cuts similar to paper cuts.😎

[@dannyl2598]

As such, cushion corner protectors are required when the table height is adjusted to within 8 inches of the noggin of a kind that occupies the space within a 24 foot radios of the center of said adjustable table.

[@johnchinelli9959]

😂😂😂😂

[@ellkir1521]

Great job John. Contractor for thirty years. Had a tricky question for you. We switched over to a gas cook top range that only needed 110 15amp not the old 220 30 amp for the old electric cooktop. The power continues on to a 220amp Oven. The way I handled it was switched it to a four fuse sub panel bus grounded that had a added outlet on side of cabinet plus a fuse for the 220 oven and a fuse for the 110 cooktop using the feed from the original circuit. Another Contractor friend said the only problem with that is it doesn't meet clearance requirements of thirty inches clearance for a sub panel, since base cabinets are only 24" wide by 30" x 36" tall. Did I do the right thing or can I get tagged down the road? Running a dedicated 110 circuit would be almost impossible in my scenario since my main panel is maxed..The sub panel is now labeled as "under Island cooktop sub panel" in main panel not the old oven/stove label.

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you. Spacing requirements for electrical panels listed 110.26 for a dwelling unit is a minimum of 30" wire or the width of the panel, which ever is greater. You need a minimum or 36" of free space in front of the panel. The hight requirements are 6'-6" or the top of the panel whichever is higher. There is an exception for residential panels less than 200A for hight but not for the width or the front.

[@ellkir1521]

@@BackyardMaine Thank you very much for your response. I'll keep what I have since it's functional and a 1969 home. However, I've seen this scenario 20 years before since lots of people want to get rid of there 220 for a gas top like we did.. Any ideas how to overcome the issue of only having the 30amp 220 10 guage wire to work with? On the previous issue they dropped a 110 20 amp fuse in the main box in place of the 30amp 220 and kept only one leg but that's not a possibility and I'm still wondering if you can use an oversize wire on a 20amp breaker by wing nutting them together in panel to this day on that one. It passed inspection in 2000 but I'm still nervous to this day.

[@JM-iz3fr]

Awsome video John, great to have the summary, a true teacher! You mentioned the plastic boxes and the code compliance, what about metal boxes, does what you just went over vary??

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you my friend. Metal boxes will have a built in cable clamp or knock outs where you would install a ROMEX connector. All metal boxes require a clamp. The requirement of within 8 inches is for single gang non metallic boxes without a clamp.

[@502deth]

question on wire support. lets say we have a situation near a main panel, where you have a space between studs that has SEVERAL wires running back to the box. there is not enough surface area to staple every cable to the joist. i will staple the 3 or 4 that i have room for, then i will zip tie subsequent wires to the secured wires. i have had people say this is against code, but i have never had an inspector say one word about it. what is the official nec code book ruling on this practice?

[@mjktrash]

So for horizontal runs THROUGH holes, no extra support is needed. However, what about horizontal runs on TOP of things like ceiling joists? Even more complicated by runs at high angles to the joists?

[@TodayIWorkOn]

What a great easy to watch video. Nice work. That 1/4" sheathing code is really hard to nail.... lol.

[@BackyardMaine]

Thanks 👍

[@vince6829]

Very helpful video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@BackyardMaine]

My pleasure!

[@ggrimm79]

I didn't see within the codes you showed that the first support outside a single gang box without a clamp has to be no more than 8 inches away from the box (in addition to 8" along the sheath). Can you point me to where the NEC states this? I dig your videos, big time.

[@BackyardMaine]

314.17 (B) (2) Conductors Entering Through Cable Clamps Where cable assemblies with nonmetallic sheathes are used, the sheath shall extend not less than 6 mm (1/4 in.) inside the box and beyond any cable clamp. Except as provided in 300.15(C), the wiring method shall be secured to the box or conduit body. Exception: Where nonmetallic-sheathed cable is used with single gang nonmetallic boxes not larger than a nominal size 57 mm × 100 mm (21/4 in. × 4 in.) mounted in walls or ceilings, and where the cable is fastened within 200 mm (8 in.) of the box measured along the sheath and where the sheath extends through a cable knockout not less than 6 mm (1/4 in.), securing the cable to the box shall not be required. Multiple cable entries shall be permitted in a single cable knockout opening.

[@ThatMattGuy]

This is awesome content. Thank you for that. Does anyone have an idea why its important to support the cable? A 12/2 is pretty stiff, I would say once its run its not going anywhere. Also coming out of a hole cut in a 2x4 stud within 8 inches I would think would be just as supportive. Just curious on the why's if they are known.

[@danieljohnson5909]

I do a good deal of "Old-work" electrical repairs. If I am adding a plug to an upstairs room and drop the new Romex cable down thru a wall to the new box, I have no way to secure the cable. Am I in violation of the code? How far can a cable "hang" before it becomes a violation? (I only install 12g wire--if size matters to your answer.)

[@BackyardMaine]

No, I explained in the video that fishing a wire in a wall or ceiling is exempt from the requirement.

[@chippydog2]

What about using these boxes in real wood logs? ( log home) I can’t find any articles on how to support the box or the wires . Also how do I secure the Romex to an ICF wall ?

[@thunder3470]

Thank you absolutely so much. Thank you. Good instructions.

[@BackyardMaine]

You are so welcome!

[@ed6837]

That seems the way it has been for years although I don't remember a service loop being mentioned. It would seem that a service loop could not be used with a 1 gang plastic without a clamp although not mentioned

[@BackyardMaine]

The 18" max cable length was added to the code in either 2017 or 2020. I can't remember for sure but it was one on those cycles. I actually said "and since it’s measured in cable length leaving a service loop is not going to be possible" when referring to the 8" support. I think??

[@davidadamson3664]

Great video John.

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you very much.. Glad you enjoyed it David.

[@ezrabarahona5749]

Brilliant course. Thank you

[@BackyardMaine]

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.

[@timunruh9906]

Is there a fire-rated plastic box for firewalls? If so how are they recognized?

[@BackyardMaine]

Yes, there are fire-rated plastic electrical boxes designed for installation in fire-rated assemblies, such as walls or ceilings with a required fire-resistance rating. These boxes comply with standards to maintain the fire-resistance integrity of the firewall. Look for a UL (Underwriters Laboratories) or ETL (Intertek) mark on the box, indicating compliance with fire-rating standards. The box will have specific identification, such as "Listed for Use in Fire-Rated Assemblies." Reputable brands such as Carlon and RACO offer fire-rated plastic boxes. Their product documentation will confirm the intended use in fire-resistance-rated walls.

[@jay9308]

Can we figure out if #6/2 Romex is code compliant for a 48 amp continuous EV charger? Apparently the state of New Jersey allows this, my local jurisdiction does not. What other wiring methods are suitable for this application?

[@BackyardMaine]

When determining amperage rating of NM cable or romex you need to use the 60 degree column. The would be 55A for 6AWG ROMEX. When sizing circuits we cannot exceed 80% of the continuous load. 80% of 55A is 44A so 48A would be in violation. You could run conduit and use THW or THHN. (#6 THW) has an amperage rating of 65A which would be 52A continuous. (#6 THHN) has an amperage rating of 75A which would be 60A continuous.

[@aaronblackford981]

Ty for your service and awesome video. I can read but that stuff is hard to get through. Guessing yearly classes to highlight the changes to code?

[@BackyardMaine]

Yes for sure. And thank you. The code updates every 3 years and to maintain our license we need to take a 15 hour code update course on the new code. The last update was in 2023 so I'm good to go until February of 2026.

[@aaronblackford981]

@@BackyardMaine that’s 2-3 boring ass class every three years

[@BackyardMaine]

@@aaronblackford981 I've been using Jade continuing education and I really love it. Its all online and I'll just work on it a few hours a day and I can usually get through it in 8-10 hour. I like it way better than attending the classes. Here's a link if you want to check it out next time you need an update. www.jadelearning.com

[@mjdiiii]

Great info. Thanks for the video.

[@BackyardMaine]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching

[@wookieecantina]

Wonderful video, thank you for creating and sharing.

[@BackyardMaine]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.

[@donmclean1220]

Very clear explanation, I think I could remember it.

[@BackyardMaine]

Excellent. Thanks for watching and being the first commenter..

[@shaneharrison9609]

How have we not figured out the right way to put this stuff in by now.

[@Honestandtruth007]

Just Subscribed for your great info 👍

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you! Welcome to the channel.

[@JablesMullet]

Love your videos. If you only have short staples can you secure two romex side by side?

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you.

[@tedbush1870]

It looks like the romex is running through the middle 1/3 of the stud ? I work in the manufacture housing industry for many years, we could not drill in the center of the stud without a prosleve, but stick built could. I do like your videos.

[@northidahodreaming5657]

good information....Thanks for this video

[@davidisaacson9328]

What about metal boxes and using EMT conduit? Do the wires need to be secured in the conduit somehow...or at the j-box? Thanks

[@BackyardMaine]

No they don’t. The EMT needs to be supported within 36 inches of a box or fitting and every 10 feet there after.

[@davidisaacson9328]

@BackyardMaine Thanks!

[@davids2530]

I’m adding a single gang box behind my TV. Going to fish NM 12/2 down the wall and into an old work box. If i use clamps on both old work boxes I understand I don’t need staples because of the fishing exception. If I use knockouts instead of clamps in this scenario do i have to use staples?

[@BackyardMaine]

Yes, you are correct..

[@BackyardMaine]

Old work boxes with the wings like I showed in the video have the cable clamps. But if you were fishing a wire down to an existing nail on box without clamps, you could do that without support base on the information provided in the section on un-supported cables.

[@davids2530]

Thank you for your very quick reply and professional expertise!

[@chadkeller2144]

Great info!

[@BackyardMaine]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.

[@rodschnell3740]

In replacing wiring in an older home with lathe and plaster how does this apply?

[@BackyardMaine]

If wires are fished in existing walls it doesn't. I go over some of that in the video. But if you're removing the plaster and lathe and open the walls you would then be required to follow the support requirements.

[@JessicaT-qp9uv]

Good luck with any of this on remodels and old work.

[@vboutique2188]

What type of cable ties can be used to tie together multiple romex wires for example in the electrical panel to make a clean install? Any particular brand? Or just the cheap dollar tree ones?

[@RG-uz6wx]

I would just neatly train and bend them without any of the plastic ties. They won't won't flutter around. And it leaves air space for ventilation and makes it a lot easier to trace if needed.

[@johnhenryholiday4964]

I can fully appreciate the uprated nature of electrical service... The third leading cause of fires are caused by electrical malfunctions and the better We wire homes and businesses the lower fire loss caused by electrical malfunction...

[@rebelwithcause4908]

@BackyardMaine Shouldn't it then be code compliant to put a cable staple 4" from the junction box AND have 8" of cable slack between the junction box and that closest cable staple?

[@BackyardMaine]

That would be 4" of slack and then 4" to the box. You could do that possibly but you would have to be careful about the bending radius of the cable which has code limitations as well. In my view with single gang, non-metallic boxes, the best way to leave slack, if you really thought it was necessary, would be to leave it above the staple and just make sure the staple is not tight against the cable.

[@throughmylens5127]

Was doing a remodel and outlets were in the walls without boxes.

[@donaldshimkus539]

In the last scenario, what if you made your service loop and brought it back through the staple which is 6" from the box? If you don't drive the staple in too hard, the service loop can still be pulled down into the box if needed.

[@BackyardMaine]

Many people even electrician will drive the staples in tool tight.. The staples are just there to hold the wire in place so it won't get damaged. I usually leave a bit of slack in runs by squaring off all the corners and leaving the staple where they are making contact but not tight. Then like you're saying you could pull a bit of slack through the staple. Thanks for adding to the conversation. The video I made before this one was on extending short wires.

[@BB-fp6gh]

Hello, I’m planning to run a Romex cable (15amp circuit) behind the Sheetrock wall to extend power outlet to the top in order to have a wall mounted TV. Question is that a code violation not to secure a romex cable to the stud? I live in TX so not sure if TX code says something about this.😊

[@BackyardMaine]

@@BB-fp6gh According to the national electrical code you can fish NM cables in the wall without any additional support. The old work box will also have a cable clamp so you are good to go. I don't know your local code but I would be shocked if there was an issue.

[@johnnyprotalk3352]

nice desk, thanks for information

[@BackyardMaine]

Most welcome.. I love it..

[@wheresbicki]

What are those plastic runs called with the several holes?

[@DanMcD80]

Why not put staple right above the box and still do a service loop?

[@BackyardMaine]

The reasoning is it's difficult to pull extra cable through a staple without damaging it.

[@outofcontrol4499]

Are there code issues related to the type of staple? I'm thinking of those staples with two nails vs the u-shaped continuous steel ones? I confess that as a DIY guy the "2 nail" versions are easier in cramped quarters.

[@BackyardMaine]

Any staple will work as long as they are listed for NM cable support. The 2-Nail staples are fine.

[@KaiserTom]

Follow manufacturer instruction.

[@LanceRudy]

Great video thanks 😊

[@BackyardMaine]

You’re so welcome 😊

[@russrockino-rr0864]

I just staple at 8" or less. Then you don't have to worry about what kind of box you have! Thanks, Russ,29 years in the Electrical Trade.

[@aliso-pv7ll]

Are the desk jockeys that write these codes former Soviet era bureaucrates?

[@BackyardMaine]

🤣

[@georgezofchak6684]

Just goofs with too much time on their hands and wanting the consumer to spend as much as possible…….to this date I have not seen or captured a gremlin that wants to mess a move my lines…unscrew connectors….or wiggle line loose………

[@timgurr1876]

These codes are always confusing, especially when there are additional requirements in another section of the code. Why is this additional requirement only for single gang boxes? Thanks.

[@joshbaker855]

Heres how it really works. Code is 12 inches. Depends on the inspector. Loops are really dumb but one inspector here expects a loop. So we do it yo code and have a loop.

[@BackyardMaine]

Code is not 12 inches for boxes without a cable clamp.

[@salvor1]

not leaving service loops is just not a good idea. ie: 'tear the walls apart to add 2 inches of wire'

[@jonblair5470]

If the staple is at 4” per se, and the wire is 8” in a unclamped single gang box. Couldn’t that still be a “service loop” (without the loop) and still be in code?

[@BackyardMaine]

Yes a small loop, just be carful of the bending radius requirements.

[@rupe53]

Just remember that code / passing inspection is like graduating from school with a D average. It is the minimum, and you can probably do better. The hard part is making those adjustments without violating another section of the book.

[@markniblack7160]

Great explanation

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you.

[@diyjohn9584]

Your instruction is contradicting my home depot instruction, it goes to my confusing blah blah list 😂

[@BackyardMaine]

I’m not sure what Home Depot is telling you but I’m actually quoting the code.

[@paulnovak6977]

If the Romex comes out of a drilled hole within 12” of the box with cable clamps do u still have to add a cable support?

[@BackyardMaine]

Yes it does and within 8" if the box has no clamp. The code article reads. In other than vertical runs, cables installed in accordance with 300.4 shall be considered to be supported and secured where such support does not exceed 1.4-m (41/2-ft) intervals and the nonmetallic-sheathed cable is securely fastened in place by an approved means within 300 mm (12 in.) of each box, cabinet, conduit body, or other nonmetallic-sheathed cable termination.

[@jfbeam]

You could still have a service loop, it'll be short and stapled right next to the box.

[@BackyardMaine]

You could but a small one and you also have to be careful of the bending radius restrictions.

[@stephanpetranker8994]

Excellent review. Ty

[@BackyardMaine]

My pleasure.. Thanks for watching.

[@ronh5623]

Good Job!

[@kerrytaylor4366]

So if you have an issue later you will have to rip the wall apart to fix it .

[@BackyardMaine]

If everything is installed correctly and wired correctly, you will never have an issue later. I wire my home 26 years ago and I have had zero electrical problems.

[@kerrytaylor4366]

@@BackyardMaine yes but there is millions of houses bought and sold ECT there are additions and such, there could be a fire or over load so please don't be so close minded or self centered because u still live in the same place you wired,as this isn't about you it's about everyone and please I'm not picking a fight.

[@BackyardMaine]

@@kerrytaylor4366 I'm not close minded. I just follow the code. Not supporting cable because you might have an issue someday is a bad plan. The supports are specifically designed to prevent the cable from being damaged.

[@KaiserTom]

You're missing the point of the code. It's meant to keep the cable from being penetrated by drywall nails/screws mainly and by other things. Drywallers cannot hit a stud consistently to save their life and if your cable is touching up to the drywall, it's going to get penetrated by that screw. This is not the fault of the drywaller. It's only their responsibility to use the correct length screws for the drywall as to not go within the center third of a stud. It's an electrician and plumbers responsibility to keep their cable and pipes in the center third of the wall. And never the twain shall meet and everyone is happy. If a screw is missed, it's a non-issue. The code on all sides was made to be this way. To account for many scenarios including improper installation and mistakes. So that none of those things can either cause damage to the material or damage to a person, as much as reasonable.

[@joshuawhite9725]

I always just remembered 6 12 18. You have to have 6 in of working wire in the Box. And you have to be secured within 12 inches and you can't have more than 18 inches of wire

[@BackyardMaine]

The issue is that will single gang plastic boxes without a cable support you need to secure at 8 inches rather than 12.

[@joshuawhite9725]

@@BackyardMaine yeah 6 12 18 implies boxes with no strain relief.