Ball Joints: How to Check for Wear

[@crisp8180]

This is a very good explanation of how/when the baljoints are loaded, off loaded. Thank you!!

[@davidhall3747]

Thanks for this important tutorial. I now know how to properly check the Ball Joints on our German and American vehicles. You're a life saver!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Hi David, glad this was helpful!

[@charleypalacios8311]

Good job Macgyver in explaining the laws of physics to consider when trying to properly diagnose faulty ball joints. Excellent!

[@ejay3439]

THIS needs to be the top search result on checking ball joints! I'm just starting out learning my own car and every video on here is like "just wiggle it". I'm glad I kept digging.

[@mikechainz2245]

Another excellent video Ivan! I've been a mechanic for over 15 years and I agree with all of your information in this video ... as a matter of fact this is the best breakdown I've ever seen great job as always !!!! Pine Hollow Diagnostics rocks!!!!!!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thank you for the feedback Mike!

[@F.Krueger-cs4vk]

2 types of front suspension systems. Suspension system 1 has a preloaded "upper ball" joint. To check ball joint wear, place jack under center of cross member. Lift vehicle up so front wheel is off ground 2 or 3 inches clearance. Use a long pipe or what ever is available approx 4 or 5 foot long. Place under front wheel, lift up/down gently check/feel upper ball joint movement. Maybe get a friend to lay under vehicle with a torch help with diagnosis. Replace if any movement. Suspension system 2 has a preloaded "lower ball" joint. Check lower ball joint wear, place jack under lower control arm as close as possible to the ball joint. Complete same procedure as already mentioned. As rule of thumb, preloaded ball joint usually always wear first. The reason is because there are 2 opposing forces at play working against "loaded ball: joint. There's the spring pushing down wards & there's the weight of the vehicle on the ground pushing the ball joint upwards. A tip for ball joints that are in good working order with no grease nipple. You can purchase a hypodermic needle with a grease nipple on one end. Insert into your grease gun, push needle into rubber boot gently pump with grease till boot is firm. Do over grease as you can damage the boot & when you remove needle , grease will squirt out of needle puncture hole in the boot. Remember to place jack stands under vehicle as jacks can fail/collapse. Good luck folks with your front end diagnosis/repairs. 👍🏻👌🏻 cheers from 🇦🇺

[@somerandomguy3868]

Excellent demonstration, often overlooked ball joints are a wear component, great video Ivan as always

[@petrocksgarage]

Great explanation, demo & diagrams. Most people forget about the sway bar's effect on the system.

[@pritchy26HD]

Great video my man. I’m a VW master technician and been in the game over 20years. I always watch you and south main auto videos as in my opinion you both are excellent mechanics and really help the DIY people out. Well done on taking the time out of your days to teach people. I’ve been out of the spanner game quite a bit as one of the 2 MT at my VW dealership as all my work tends to be the electric side that the fitters in the shop either can’t diagnose or need to warranty. My 2 favourite channels on KZbin. Well done 👍

[@RotoRCol]

you miss Scannerdanner allgreat channels

[@curtgirardin6093]

Ivan, I watch a lot of videos from you, scannerdanner, and sma. Today, I was looking for a video on how to test for bad ball joints, Most of the videos out there are somewhat model specific, or worse, imply one way to test is good for ALL vehicles. So I was looking specifically for something that explained different types of suspension systems and how to test them. When I finally found your video among the sea of ball joint inspection videos, I knew you would show what I was looking for, and you didn't disappoint. And now it doesn't matter what vehicle I'm looking at. Now I can figure out how to support it to test the ball joints properly. Thank you thank you thank you. Best ball joint inspection video on KZbin, in my opinion.

[@wysetech2000]

Very good subject, Ivan. There are a lot of people who don't check Ball Joints properly.

[@Aguakangenchicago]

Thank you so much for your video I knew you had something going here, so I kept watching until the minute 19:00 where you show the ball joint free play or movement ,... incredible information! Love it,...Thanks!

[@johnnyarmstrong2695]

Thanks for detailed description. I had a double wishbone system come apart without apparent noise warning. Thanks for explanation. J

[@konquerorx]

Thanks for this video sir! I've been basically branding, all ball joint diagnosis with the same brush. Clearly, a wrong approach on my side. I'm grateful these videos Ivan. Thanks for your help

[@eventu08]

Very good and scientific method and display. Awesome!!! I had replace my front shocks by a TIRE PLUS shop here in Miami, FL and they did not even point out the left Motor Mount , left lower Ball Joint and Stabilizer Bar links and Bushings that need replacement on my 114k plus 2009 2WD 1500 Z85 v8 Chevy . Now, ...finding your Channel here just re assured my hunch of feel , hearing noises experience as a self repairs of my vehicles since 1980s. This was very good and re assuring have Chevy Silverado for such a long time now. thank you and yes i just Subscribe to your channel.

[@andrewvillanueva4222]

Wow you explained that issue awesomely!!!!! Thank you. You and Eric O have some of the best videos because of the details!!!!

[@christopherwoodward8374]

Great work and information and kind and upfront public relations we need more people like you, thanks again

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thanks for the motivation, Chris!

[@ronaldcach2779]

THANKS, You cleared a lot of questions I had, on the different suspensions. For checking ball joints. THANKS FRIEND

[@ronaldcach2779]

@Robert Slackware Thanks

[@JOEZEP54]

Great explanation showing the pressure points on different suspensions. This was very helpful. Thank you and stay well, Joe Z

[@MegaGeorge1948]

My brand new 98 Dodge Durango had 25,000 miles on it when both upper and lower ball joints were way out of spec. on play. The Dodge tech had the Durango up on the lift, checking the ball joint play with his dial indicator with the tires hanging. This kept the ball joints loaded and falsified his indicator test. I could see the test through the waiting room window into the garage. It had the torsion bar suspension like that Chevy. I told the service advisor that the tech was doing the test wrong. But he didn't agree. So I had to take my Durango to another Dodge Dealer in another town. This dealership diagnosed the ball joint problem correctly by jacking the lower control arm and then testing the unloaded ball joints with the Durango on the ground. They then replaced both upper and lower ball joints. After a year, these stock Chrysler ball joints had to be replaced again due to excessive wear. I took the Durango to a repair station (Sullivan Tire) and they replaced the bad Chrysler ball joints with MOOG life time ball joints. I never had this problem since then. Chrysler has had this systemic ball joint problem since the 60's and did nothing to correct it. Only after market ball joints solved the problem.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Wow, good to know! I generally use Moog suspension parts, and have had good luck with them :)

[@vincescalise4821]

They must use poor quality steel

[@jptrainor]

This is the sort of story, and experience, that drove me to DIY all my auto repairs. I got tired of paying for bad advise, low quality work, and repeat drives to garages and dealerships.

[@Chrismckinney1]

Chrysler ball joints are horrible 🤦🏾‍♂️

[@workingshlub8861]

great video ivan...i still have the original uppers on my 92 chevy astro van...checked them when i did my lowers and they were still fine with grease fittings..good maintenance over 27 years..

[@8953147]

I always wondered about this subject and how to properly troubleshoot it, thanks Ivan!!

[@shadowdog500]

Excellent explanation, diagrams, and demonstration! Chris

[@int53185]

Even alignment shops in our area seem to underestimate the importance of ball joints in vehicle alignment. We had a Jeep Cherokee come into the shop with severe front end damage. The alignment shop was all over the engine cradle and frame to blame for the out of alignment on the vehicle. But a close visual inspection of the lower ball joint revealed that it was bent a few millimeters. The alignment shop was even trying to shift the cradle to get the alignment. Lesson learned: even a very small deviation in the lower ball joint can cause alignment issues.

[@emtscythe3782]

James Last here too, I get a couple a week that come in for a service or something unrelated that have new tires recently, I'll see wear and inform them of the bad joints and I get the " the tire shop said they were good " I'll take them out in the shop and show them. It just amazes me they either don't know how or don't care.

[@BigDog50001]

Excellent white board work there Ivan!

[@baxrok2.]

Excellent explanation Ivan. I'd add that often the racket that the worn joints make is a giveaway. Ka'clunk! Last year I saw two vehicles with completely separated joints, wheel flat on the ground. One was a Honda. Thanks!

[@DieElspethDie]

that's what I'm saying they just don't fget up and fail. they make a a pronounced clunk for a while before they fall out. if they are neglected then the driver has gone out of his way to ignore them

[@baxrok2.]

Yup.

[@johntube2525]

@@DieElspethDie Some people are deft from having their car stereo so loud that it can be heard inside a building 50 ft away. That boom boom from the loud stereo covers up all noises. LOL

[@wyattoneable]

I enjoy the white board lessons Ivan. That was indeed good information that the class provided to you inspectors.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

They taught us the the "how". I came up with the "why" and freebody force diagrams ;)

[@themechanic6117]

Great video!! I hope the people who inspected it watch this video.

[@thebigmacd]

Many cars with MacPherson strut suspensions don't unload the ball joints when hanging, because the inner bushings hold the control arm up against the hub. You have to use a pry bar to try to split the ball joints apart for testing. Older Volvos for example aren't supposed to have their inner control arm bolts tightened until the full weight of the car is on the suspension. This means when the strut is hanging the control arm is trying to return to level, often quite strongly.

[@Stover1928]

Wow that is very helpful never understood this for modern cars

[@manhuerta19]

Woooow thats the best ball joint troubleshoting video i’ve seen and I’ve seen a lot thank you I finally found the freaking clunk that was driving me crazy

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Nice work!

[@zmanvideo1]

Thank you Ivan for this excellent informative video and explanation, lives definately saved!!!

[@elcheapo5302]

Excellent explanation, Ivan. I liked the Mercury and Chevy badges. :)

[@vincescalise4821]

Great video Ivan Hopefully people in New York State and Ohio Will check their ball joints

[@throttlebottle5906]

my favorite way is jack stands under lower control arm as close to the tires as possible, drop and bounce vehicle, that has it as close to normal "ride height" as possible, which is where everything is most worn! yes it loads the suspension in case of struts, but grabbing tire at top and bottom (12&6) they'll most always move and clunk around. that's also a very good time/place to check tie-rod ends. recheck with it fully supported as you showed :)

[@codybroken]

One-take Ivan does it again. Big thumbs up.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

LOL it was all one-take off-the-cuff xD

[@SmittySmithsonite]

I've been checking all of them with the jack under the control arm. I've always owned trucks, and rear-wheel-drive V8 cars, so that's been ingrained for a long time. I never knew that the McPherson system needed to hang! I've been checking those the same way as well. Wondering how many bad joints I've missed now! Glad you posted this one! Hope you're still enjoying the new job, & all the fleet is running smoothly. :) I've had one issue after the other lately. First, a bad right-side headlight / foglight ground was killing our Volvo 940's engine when the high-beams were on! That was an odd one. Could tell right away by the orange light what the issue was. Ground had 7 Ohms resistance, while driver's side was 0.1 Ohms. I just combined the headlight & fog light's grounds, and connected them to the "frame" there that runs next to the engine, up to the core support. Fixed! But, then the next night, the rear door wouldn't stay closed! Wife had to tie it shut for the ride home, lol. Was pretty comical - newspaper string running all across the door inside and out. :D Was just a frozen lock - I worked the interior lock up and down, and that was it - fixed. Wish they were all that easy! Then, my '94 S10 plow truck's battery croaked. Gave it a boost to get her going, but after working the plow up and down a few times, that was all she could handle - thing died in the middle of my street (not registered either). Luckily I had another old junk battery that was less junky than this 9 year old one, threw that in, and got the driveway done. :) Never a dull moment around here!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

LOL yeah you have to think every car through based on the suspension design :)

[@AndyMechanic]

Great video Ivan - I'd use this in my lectures if I was still teaching! Great Job. Andy

[@workingshlub8861]

amen to this lesson....i had a lower ball joint SNAP in half on my astro van after hitting a pothole...snapped the stud part right in half and the pressed in part stayed in the knuckle ....was the stud facing up style and i just passed inspection few months earlier and always grease at least once a year...could not believe it broke like that....make sure you torque those stud nuts to spec and no guessing on those..

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Wow was it the original joint or aftermarket? Must have been a huge pothole!

[@spdparts8924]

Great explanation! Usually we just look at the boots, if it's torn and grease coming out, it needs to be replaced, even if it's still good, it's driving on borrowed time

[@int53185]

I am here from the Honda safety inspection. Going to check mine this weekend.

[@ACommenterOnYouTube]

lol

[@TechTimeWithEric]

On my 87 S10 I had recently did a total front end rebuild: New loaded control arms, tie rods, installed a sway bar, which it never had before, jeep steering shaft upgrade, and new sway bar links/bushings. Took it for an alignment, and drove a few hundred miles. I was lucky enough to get a defective ball joint from, you guessed it, Dorman, and the lower ball joint separated from the socket shoving my wheel into the fender well, taking out 2 new tie rods, and the new upper ball joint. I got lucky enough that it was in a parking lot. I had just gotten off the NJ Turnkpike and was heading back to the NJ turnpike when this happened.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Oh my gosh. My question would be if you are investing int a full suspension rebuild, why install Dorman parts?? Surely they are worse than the worn out original units haha

[@TechTimeWithEric]

Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics as someone who works at an Auto Parts store... Dorman pretty much owns the automotive aftermarket. The truck sat for a few years due to front end issues and some other issues, but I needed the truck so I could move, but I also had a budget to stick to. The Moog arms were nearly $100 each MORE than the Dorman arms. I've sold hundreds of these Dorman arms and never had a problem with them, until now lol. I guess I was the lucky one. I ended up ordering new Moog ball joints and replacing all 4 joints in the Dorman arms. But dang that sucked.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Try RockAuto.com usually you can get ACDelco parts for not much more than the crappy aftermarket units :)

[@snw56]

Great video Ivan. If I'm understanding this correctly, the final take-away are these two methods for checking ball joint wear covers virtually all vehicles on the road. If the inspector can't visualize the patterns of force (in his mind) working within the suspension, then simply perform both methods.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Well...I guess so. I would still take a minute to visualize the forces...maybe draw a schematic on paper if it's hard to do it in the brain :)

[@sberryscake]

this was a fantastically educational video! thank you so much for making it! i am a shadetree and have always worked on my own vehicle but until recently did not mess with anything in the wheel area except brake changes. in the last couple of years i have had to have my control arms and ball joints changed out and i just did them all at the same time as an investment and safety on the explorer. i was completely unaware of the load differences in my little coupe and my SUV. i see it now. and it makes perfect sense, how you describe it. currently i think my upper may need replaced on the tahoe and my friends taurus needs diagnosed for ball joint or shock making a noise. now i know i cannot just lift the one tire and why on the car. THANK YOU! very well done! subscribed and hope you keep making videos.

[@ericcorse]

Good old physics 101 it has been 45 years. Well done.

[@stephenlawrence4362]

Hey Ivan. Great to see you back. Hope your new job is going good 😊

[@frugalprepper]

Wow Ivan, this is a really great video. Hope all is going well for you at the new job.

[@danjensen100]

I keep reading comments about his new job........did I miss something? Is Pine Hollow gone? What is he doing now?

[@cozzyinternet4706]

Cheers MR. PHAD!! :D Greetings from 2020!! Thanks for this very very important tutorial!! I've been checking for ball joint play on my sister's vehicle, and never understood why the tyre was always stiff..........because I was jacking up the vehicle on 1 side!! sheesh Cheers, mate!! :D

[@SKANK_HUNT49]

I checked my ball joints on my truck and they were really loose. I just replace them the new ones were a little smaller than the old ones but I saw this guy on KZbin his new ball joints he was replacing or a little smaller so he tack weld them in. I did the same with mine and man those joints are Rock Solid now.

[@heyitschinoable]

MIKE HUNT hahahaah! ETCG!

[@SKANK_HUNT49]

heyitschino supposedly it's stronger that way then if it was the right size is what he says

[@stinkycheese804]

Mike, what often happens is the hole gets enlarged and the new ball joint was close enough to the right diameter for a new vehicle but now it needs an oversized ball joint. I mean that most manufacturers make both the standard size and one that is 0.006" larger diameter. For example on a Moog part # there is K8695T for stock size and K8695T006 for 0.006" oversized. Also note that you may be able to weld in the ball joints with sintered metal bearings (typically with a grease fitting on them or at least a hole to allow one), but it's worse to weld in the sealed for life type (permanently lubricated, so they say anyway) which has a plastic bearing which could be degraded by welding heat. Of course the other option some people would prefer is to just replace the entire lower control arm, then you get new bushings in it as well as a new ball joint, but some people are hesitant to go to the trouble of unloading the spring or torsion bar. Guess it depends on whether you want a cheaper faster fix to get a little more life out of the vehicle or are looking at long term use, or in the case of a truck, possibly heavy duty use with a load or offroading a 4x4.

[@SKANK_HUNT49]

Stinky Cheese 10-4 I understand what you're saying. I didn't realize they made an oversized ball joint for replacement. Thanks for the tip

[@markwheeler202]

Great job explaining how to unload the joint. IIRC, SMA has a video where Eric O. shows to give the wheel a shake at 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock instead of 3/9 and 12/6.

[@ozzstars_cars]

Good info. Years ago when I was a young buck I learned the hard way with sway bar tension with one wheel down. Your art work is so good Ivan I could tell without any doubt in my mind the car drawn on the left is a Mercury Mystique!! Yup I'll take extra credit for that. haha

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

hahaha I was wondering if anyone would pick up on the Mercury badge ;)

[@ucakpan]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics, both the Mercury and the Chevrolet badge. Quite hilarious.

[@4WDIESEL1]

good video. i am sure this will help a lot of the DIY mechanics

[@nukelauncher95]

Thanks for the video. I always wondered how ball joints separate. I never considered that certain styles pull the ball out of the socket. I thought that all of them pushed the ball into the socket.

[@pingpong9656]

Brilliant explanation - solid video.

[@spelunkerd]

I've always found torsion bars a little confusing, thanks for the clear explanation.

[@shieldcracker]

Perhaps the reason you don't need raise both wheels on your Chevy is because one of the ends of the sway bar disconnected. But if the sway bar was connected and one wheel was on the ground, the opposite wheel lower control arm would be loaded through the torsion bar in the upwards direction. Note that this is the same direction of the of the force applied by the jack, so it really does not matter whether one or two wheels are on the air or if the sway bar is connected or not! Wow! Great video.

[@YouSpamTard]

I am back for a new pick on pine head, I mean hallow. :) I remember working at a shop and three or four of us tried to figure out a tried and true method for testing ball joints. We never did figure it out. We were busy and did not have time for such matters of such brain thought. The easiest and only way I can think of is to look at the joint (each individual joint) and to think how can I separate the ball from the joint and then to think how can I apply or remove force to separate it considering apposing forces are at work. I do not think you have accomplished your task of a test procedure. I admire you for trying and I know it is possible to have procedures for the many types of suspension. Thing is, even if you do have or get it all figured out, I know good and well my brain will not remember them all and it would take more time to read a list procedure than to just think in a simple way, how do I separate the ball from the joint which is exactly what your thinking of in this video. Good luck. :) Its kind of like figuring out how many different types of pieces are in a jigsaw puzzle. Hehe.

[@Mercedesdriver2012]

Absolutely great explained. I tried in vain to check the play of the lower ball joint on my Mercedes W 163 ML. Would the second example in the video be the right way to check the game on a W 163 ML? Best regards from Germany.

[@gjermundblisten]

Hi Ivan, thanks for keeping making some good videos. The last example with the tappet/stud pointing up its easy to check, you just take the pry bar between the rim and the balljoint for checking the play: Just saying. SVAR

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

That would work if you have clearance and a nice large prybar to fight against the spring tension :)

[@comingundone27]

That suspension set up has made me alot of money of the years haha. Cake work!

[@comingundone27]

These and Ford trucks and the Taurus all keep me busy.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Chryslers like to eat balljoints as well haha

[@arthurfricchione8119]

Great video Ivan. Hope your enjoying the new job. Miss your videos but making a living come first.👍

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thanks Arthur!

[@steveragusa3289]

1st=Hi IVAN =GLAD YOUR BACK MAKING VIDS

[@GlycerinZ]

greetings Ivan from five years ago! I went to replace my axle and ball joint, after i removed the axle the wheel bearing completely fell apart onto the ground and my steering knuckle was trashed. I'm surprised that the car drove fine prior to this happening.

[@Budmur]

Very elegant explanation.

[@robinsonsmotorcycleandauto3929]

Well great to see a video from you buddy. Hope the new job is going well and this video is on point as alot of these are neglected to the point of devastation

[@gerardclement3095]

Great video, very good course. I will need to check the sway bar links and following you video I think I didn't had the right approach. I was only jacking one side of the car at the time. For checking the sway bar links on a MacPherson system, I guess that we must use the 2 jacks approach, this way the sway bar will not induce compression or traction force in the links, so they can move freely, same logic as the ball joints. If you have a chance could you please confirm. Thanks again

[@amarinayat8879]

Excellent work! Thanks for explaining in detail. Please correct if I am wrong....For cars like Toyota Camry, etc the first scenario applies. For older f150s and expeditions with torsion bar based suspension the 2nd scenario applies. What about 2006 Nissan Armada and Titans, I believe they have McPherson strut suspension with pretty heavy duty sway bars..... What method should be used? Also, on the second scenario where lifting one side suffices, what role does the sway bar plays? Thanks again, for an awesome, well explained video

[@DanaSmallwood-o8j]

Outstanding video!

[@swordfish1120]

Very good explanation on the different lower ball joints and why some can be more dangerous than others. I have an 05 Tundra with the potentially dangerous ball joint mount that sits under the lower control arm/knuckle. I just replaced the lowers (with Moog which was probably a mistake) and I will replace every 3-5 years just to be safe. I also replaced the uppers with Moog and after pressing in the upper ball joints, but before setting them into the upper control arm, the stiffness of the ball socket was gone as I could easily move it back and forth. When I called Moog, the rep told me this should not occur and I lost all preload and the ball joints need to be replaced🤔. This doesn't make sense to me. I thought the preload of un upper ball joint comes with the torque placed on the mounting nut when installing? Two Toyota service techs confirmed that the preload comes with torque on install. Does what the Moog rep told me make any sense to you? I would think they should know their equipment inside and out, but I'm skeptical of this info.

[@apollocreed3549]

Great video Ivan. On my older Hondas with double wishbone suspensions, just tugging the wheel at 12 & 6 doesn't work. You gotta get into the knuckle area with a pry bar to check for play at the joint.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Or jack up at the lower A-arm like I did on the Blazer :)

[@apollocreed3549]

True

[@valde3336]

Here in Finland all the inspection places have the special jacks installed onto their lifts to check ball joins. They also have the shaking machine on the lift to help to see the play in suspension/steering parts.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Wow! fancy!

[@valde3336]

@Robert Slackware This is the only video I could find. Not very good and only little use for the shaker. Its controlled with that wired remote. kzbin.info/www/bejne/j4XbdYOrrLFli7M Shaker is designed for that lift and lift is inspected at least yearly by inspector so no problems.

[@valde3336]

@Robert Slackware Yes the jack is there so you can roll it under to unload a control arm. It can be used to lift under ball joints too. That was just not shown in the video. It's also used to lift the wheels to check wheel bearings. Shaker is powerful enough to see if suspension and steering joints are loose as you can look at them when it pushes the tire to direction you want. This shows slightly better how you can use the shaker to see and feel if joints are loose kzbin.info/www/bejne/e6Opl3iVn7RkY68

[@graymodeler]

Lots of common sense there, Ivan. I have an old 85 Z 28 that has another type of McPherson strut. It has the spring pushing on the lower A arm but the strut controlling the knuckle like a minivan. I can jack up this car with the spring pocket. I would not want to jack my minivan by the lower A arm as it was never designed to carry the weight of the vehicle. In your example, the Blazer's top a arm ball joint just carries stabilizing forces from braking, acceleration and cornering. That is why it wears slower. Great video!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yup, some designs are hybrids. My Suzuki XL-7 is the same way as your Z28. The lower BJ still carries the load in that case, so you have to jack up on the lower a-arm to check those just like on this blazer :)

[@Justin-bb7oi]

I'm only 5 seconds in, I know this is going to be a good video, because it 30 mins just about ball joints! nice job!

[@PeterMMMMM]

Awesome explanations

[@nbassmusky]

Your initial observation of the tops of the wheels laying in while being supported on stands as you have them is normal. It is a characteristic of SLA suspension and does not indicate ball joint problems. Also, the upper ball joint can be checked with the wheel off by prying between the upper control arm/ball joint area and the knuckle or with the wheel/tire supporting the weight and prying up on the upper control arm.

[@matthewjoniec9000]

Great tips, thanks bud...love the illustrations :-)

[@emmashepard2070]

Great Video Ivan good information and examples. I've seen a person have her old van separate the ball joint and slam on the ground thank God it wasn't on a highway. As for the end explanation.. Seems obvious doesn't it? Your removing pressure from the ball joints but also having the wheel not touching the ground so you can check for play by the hub. I expect the same outcome if you jacked up the car by the spring and even removed the wheel. Possibly get better view of the bad ball joint, but loose a bit of the leverage while checking it.. Did that make sense? Who knows I'm tired.. Have a good one

[@johntube2525]

So how do you check ball joints on a 2000 Suburban or a 2001 Silverado with torsion bars. Would you still just jack up one side at a time, at the lower control arm. Would this unload the lower ball joint, so you can easily check for wear on the ball joint? Before seeing your video, we jacked up both sides and then used a pry bar to try and move the tire up and down, but ball joints did seem tight, because they were probably still loaded. Left side makes a clunk when driving, but basically only hear it sometimes when accelerating from a dead stop and turning the wheel left or right. Tried driving on a bumpy dirt road going straight and no clunk. Tires are wearing on inside.

[@johntube2525]

Sorry, I watched again and saw the blazer does have a torsion bar which acts like the spring. and it has a sway bar connected to the lower control arm. You do describe why the joint is unloaded when you jack up at the lower control arm. You even say you have to wrap you mind around this system. to understand it. Took quite awhile for me to wrap my mind around it. LOL Thanks for the video and sharing your knowledge!

[@SouthMainAuto]

Duh.... ball joints are not important here in NY! They are not even part of NYSI. NYS says they are not part of the steering or the suspension hahaha!

[@richardcranium5839]

ny state inspections have always been a joke. really not sure how you can stand to live in that state. move to pa you can see what ny does about 3 years later lol

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yo Eric! I would say the the balljoint is an integral part of BOTH steering AND suspension! What were they smoking when writing those guidelines lmao?!

[@jdtractorman7445]

Agreed. NYS has some of the most foolish ideas. Bad ball joints should fail inspection all day long. What I get a kick out of is now NYS is so lazy they are installing cameras on the DMV computer that the inspectors are using so they can "watch" them do the inspection. Supposedly the cameras are not active yet though because NYS does not have enough people hired to "watch" them. Stupidity at it's finest.

[@naokimatsushima4979]

South Main Auto Repair Really? Ball joints are not part of SI? Silly government. I think every state need more strict vehicle inspection. Here in AK, we do not have inspection. 1/3 of the vehicles here are not road worthy.

[@haywardsautomotive6156]

In GA if your emissions passes you're golden...brakes, tires, steering, suspension, lights, wipers all optional :D

[@MariaGonzalez-ei1pv]

Great videoman ..1982 4 door cutlass supreme v6,3.8 front driver side I have a play at the 12 n 6oclock don't know what it can be !tire shakes at 55 65 mph on freway .helppppppp.you are a awsome Instructor

[@fnamelname3182]

Well, thanks Ivan very informative video ! Cheers !

[@DylanRabier]

Nice tutorial Ivan. Thx! Wonder if Einstein knew this.

[@ronaldcach2779]

THANKS for the information, it really helped me out. THANKS FRIEND

[@anthony84vette]

Excellent Explanation,Nice

[@charlese.malone2594]

The key being the HUB has no load/force applied to it in any way and its allowed to float. If there is any play in the Ball joint(s) it will be evident. You first lifted the vehicle to gain Height clearance for the HUB/Tire from the ground. Then you compressed the lower control arm to remove tension from the Bump stop which was loading the ball joint. Removing the tension exposing the play in the ball joint(s).

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yup that's the key point :)

[@bbogdanmircea]

When you lifted the arm the car lifted from the jack stand ... also on the second schematic it looks like the rectangle where you put the jack stands is connected to the frame by the springs and shocks, but that is actually part of the frame right ?

[@edgardaspilcueta738]

Awesome explanation!!!!

[@Reaper1947]

Well that explains why my neighbor has had so much trouble with his older Accord . TheReaper!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

haha yeah I've seen more than one older Honda stranded on the shoulder with front wheel looking sideways xD

[@johnberka3079]

Great info! I've got an 01 Bravada (same suv)

[@CoolAirVw]

Nice video!

[@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404]

Thanks for the great info. 😁 On a side note, the springs on the board of knowledge need replace due to some kinks in them.

[@altopark7634]

You are a real pro!!!

[@gthegreat153]

Thanks for the info. How do u check a control arm (bushing) if there is no play when u wiggle with ur hands?

[@scflooring8658]

Great video thank you

[@PaulCTownsend]

GREAT INFO THANK YOU.

[@llservice3376]

Good vid, Thanks for the input on autel scanner. Dropped the hammer on the DS808pro, FYI when I registered the new scanner it had a warning that Autel will not support the 708 scanner anymore. Tried to sign into website again to see exactly what it said but for some reason can't, my be a good idea for you to check there webside

[@robertweir9034]

L&L Service Autel seems to look for any excuse not to support their product.

[@sirsweetness8332]

Good video. Had to use it to prove defective Ball Joints to friend.

[@carlosbah4623]

Very useful video.¡Gracias!

[@drivewasher]

Ivan, on the Blazer type top ball joints have to be checked with the vehicle jacked under the body/chassis IE no weight on the lower arms. So they are free hanging

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Hey Steve! Watch from @16:30. Jacking up under the lower control arm unloads both lower and upper ball joints. If you let it just hang free, the upper arm is forced against the bump stop so both lower and upper joints would be loaded in that case :)

[@nicke2307]

The way i check them is take a set of monster channel locks and squeeze it up and down. They have an enormous amount of torque and they usually reveal a bad ball joint