Best Way To Prime A LS Engine

[@Lovetolivetruely]

You know you just helped me big time! Rebuilding my LQ9 6.0.And this will be sooooo helpful. Thank you.

[@Brainstangs]

Glad I could help!

[@jamieK111]

Thanks! Great video - using a cheap garden sprayer jug (amazon, almost 1/4" thick) and shop air to force the oil in for my 6.0 rebuild.

[@tylerjjob]

Brilliant idea! I've been scouring Google and Ebay for the best/cheapest system. (Electric oil pumps, old small air compressor tanks, SBC oil pumps in a bucket, DIY plastic pipe tanks) just ordered a Air con bottle 👍 Cheers

[@Brainstangs]

Glad I could help

[@TheRdub82]

What happened to your 427 Windsor build? Did you go another direction? Switch over to LS or go a different direction?

[@Brainstangs]

yes i sold it off. I moved to the dark side, ls builds. I sold the whole thing with heads for like 6 grand

[@TheRdub82]

@@Brainstangs I see. What made you come to that decision? That particular Windsor would have been pretty nasty!

[@coarsegrind]

Melting has a video of their system on KZbin. I was able get that same system for half price from a farm company. 4 quarts capacity, enough to rotate the engine 360 degrees. Don’t blow air into the oil gallery and fill you filter before you start.

[@yatusabes909]

Great video, I have a lot of questions boss like, What happens if I don’t prime my engine after rebuilding it?

[@Brainstangs]

likley not muck as it primes quite quickly on its own. As long as you used assembly lube you should be fine.

[@Lovetolivetruely]

Overall if we prime until all lifters have oil oozing approximately how much oil should I anticipate using for priming?

[@Brainstangs]

it took ten quarts for me to get it every where. I just drained out four when i was done

[@remodeledcatidea5324]

Can you just put a T in the oil cooling line and force oil from an attached 2 quart oil tank using air pressure into the entire motor.

[@seenonyoutube7856]

Why didn't you rotate the crankshaft several times while priming?

[@Brainstangs]

good idea. because i need a tripod or three hands. But yes i ususaly do

[@dragonlips2005]

Very important step! MUST rotate the motor several times while priming!

[@tylerjjob]

What air pressure would you normally put into it? Is there really a max?

[@Brainstangs]

I use 60. I don’t think you can hurt it. But 60 seems reasonable to me

[@Brainstangs]

Also I’ve started putting my fitting in at the top of the motor at the oil pressure sending sensor location. Less messy and if I have oil cooler lines I don’t have to disconnect it after priming to fit them up. Just a thought.

[@tylerjjob]

@@Brainstangs That's what I was thinking, but the front port would be better for me as I'm going to get everything done and in the car so I can just quickly pull the port prime it, throw the plug back in and start it 👍

[@fuelinjectedduck2964]

I have an ls that hasnt been rebuilt, but has sat for over a year. Would it hurt it to just crank it to build pressure?

[@Brainstangs]

not if it starts quick. It should be fine

[@coltonodaniel4862]

What's the best way to brake in the cam? I am replacing the cam and lifters in mine.

[@Brainstangs]

If its a roller cam like in the ls, you don't. No break in needed. Rollers don't wear like old style flat tappet cams. No one I know uses them anymore.

[@JesusArzate-nv9io]

I tried that n didn’t work for me any other tips

[@Lovetolivetruely]

Can you share how you made the fitting

[@Brainstangs]

I just found two fittings and welded them together. I know this doesnt help much but thats how i made mine

[@Lovetolivetruely]

@@Brainstangs I ended up going to the salvage yard and I pucked up 2 plugs for it there brought it home and drilled a hole in both of them and super glued them together. I had a hard time finding a barb fitting that would screw in the block right unless I ordered it online.... Most if the fittings at the hardware stores and even harborfreight tools were standard. Worked like a charm. Just 2 of the same plugs that are used in the block and a cobalt bit. I did use a standard connector i had to align the plugs and my bit was perfect fit where the allen wrench seats drilled one side flipped over then drilled the other. Came out perfect burned my fingers a bit getting them off the connector but when I did I just turned the heads together and glued....lol.

[@VenegasTrucking]

What's that pin that your talking about that causes them problems

[@Brainstangs]

called a barbell. located in the rear of the oil galley under the rear main cover

[@GDG184]

What size thread is for that adapter you got?

[@Brainstangs]

wish i knew. sorry.

[@deankay4434]

M16 - 1.5 They sell them or get one in the salvage yard. Drill & tap to the size fitting you have. This is the same place oil accumulators attach like a Moroso. Use with an electric solenoid wired B+ while cranking or what make you feel comfortable. If others drive it & wired to key on, it starts discharging into the system before cranking but remains hot while cranking. Some prefer this.

[@rickjeffjeff]

Forward to 3:58 people.Lots of breathing until then.

[@puppetmasterblaster]

man ikr , i was running out of breath just watching.

[@DestroyAllorNothing]

Why not just pull the coil pack connectors and crank a few times to prime??

[@Brainstangs]

some do this but i want to know oil is waiting in the galleys. When i start them they have instant oil pressure. If you build you engine right with assembly lube you could start it with no priming at all and it should have oil pressure within 5 seconds. Most do this. I have. Its just safe guard in my opinion. It also gets the lifters pre pumped and you dont have hard starting due to collapsed lifters that are barley opening the valves for any duration until they pump up. so there are several big advantages

[@deankay4434]

Something is better than nothing. I would never worry about air or turning the crank 360 degrees while doing so. Twin oil gallery’s feed the lifters that cross over at the rear and front. The lifter bore on the drivers side feed the camshaft, then the crank. Unless they have different main bearings but a groove allows oil up the cross-drill crank to the rod bearings. They don’t have one simple spot for each rod bearing to line up before the rods get oil. Look at photos of “LS” main bearing in online catalogs. Rod bearings have one hole that lines up as the rod nears TDC where it can squirt some oil onto the cylinder under the piston skirt. Other than that, I would look at the math. 5,000hrs engineering speak is 150,000 miles. How many times is the engine cranked over during this time period. It obviously depends on how it’s driven, but more bearing wear and material loss would occur during this 1.6 seconds of every part needing oil gets it. I would invest the $400-$600 in an oil accumulator with a 12Vdc solenoid wired to the crank key on signal. With 1.0 qt. to 2.0 qt., and 10 PSI of pressure would assist the oiling of parts durning start up. Oil can travel backwards thru the pump but only into the gallery’s. Oil during this period before actual ignition is more important the a hydrodynamic wedge, which is engineering speak for oil, not metal touching metal. Many vehicles have system utilizing stop/start systems (This is not one) but warm or full temperature oil drips out quickly due to a lower viscosity from the mains, rods and cam. These vehicle would benefit almost twice as much for longevity’s sake using an oil accumulator. Folks drop $500+ dollars on all kinds of goodies but unless you plan on trading it off/selling every 2-3 years, I would invest in an accumulator. I found a website that carries nothing but 12Vdc solenoids & others, but 1/3rd or less the cost of accessories sold at companies with oil accumulators as their main business. As an ASE Master Tech that requires 2 years minimum before awarded a certification, long term for your favorite vintage or classic cars you plan on keeping for 10+ years, but one. Install it. Get ready to trade or sell, remove the accumulator & it’s key parts, adapt to the next engine. I would say maintenance is number one, but keeping all the material on the bearings the engine is built with is job #2. National Institute for Service Excellence Master Tech since 1978. They shorten the name to ASE after beginning in 1972 or 1974. Don’t know, just took the 8 categories of tech, passed and became a master trying to weed out those who couldn’t cut the mustard! Retired.

[@yatusabes909]

Wow I’m glad I read this as I’ve stared my engine with the valve cover off & it takes a lil over 10 seconds to even get oil up out of my push rods is that normal?

[@namechane1758]

You breezed past the part about what you used to make the actual tool

[@kennethjones7239]

What a waste of time. True sign of a novice. Use assembly lube when rebuilding/replacing. Then, if you are worried, turn engine over until you have indicated oil pressure before energizing coils. Now that’s the easiest way to prime the engine.

[@Brainstangs]

Key word was "prime" not just assembly lube and send it. De energizing the coils so you can crank for a very long time to get oil at all 16 rockers. Thats why the video is about priming. Any skilled engine builder prefers to prime and engine instead of just firing it up. I have seen ls engines take several minutes to get oil to all 16 rockers. When you prime an engine you get that done before fire up. You have oil on the backside of the pump and when you fire it the first time you have instant oil pressure. Its obvious your understanding is limited on this subject. You say what a waste of time, well I think you missed the point of this video. This waste of time will save you time from your fresh rebuild burning down when you cant figure out why you dont have oil pressure at start up. It will identify any oil pressure leaks or issues before fire up. I will stick to my method as many profession builders do. But what do I know, I'm just a novice that builds 1000 + hp engine's over and over and gets lucky they work and last every time.

[@kennethjones7239]

Just for the record, I hold degrees in both Engineering and Physics and have professionally designed or assembled CHEVROLET power plants since 1993. I sincerely doubt that you want to mentally arm wrestle over who’s knowledge of the small block Chevy covers more breadth or depth on any facet. Proper usage of appropriate assembly lube will protect all surfaces during the time between first movement and adequate oil pressure thus rendering this procedure unwarranted. That’s how the factory does it, I do it and everyone “in the know” does it. Pouring a little oil directly into the pump from the side access hole might be beneficial to share but implying that this process is necessary to avoid significant wear and tear is misleading. I do believe you are supremely confident that this aids in your success and so, we will just have to agree to disagree. I stand by the fact that this is a waste of time.

[@Brainstangs]

Kenneth Jones what’s funny is it’s your waste of time and u watched it. I never implied engine damage Is going for sure going to happen. Sure what your saying can be true 95 percent of the time when when assembling was done correctly. Absolutely no wear may occur at all with assembly lube. However if something wasn’t assembled correctly or a leak is found prior to fire up. What would be a real waste of time would be discussing your engineering degrees and your vast small block knowledge. Go to Melings website and see how they prime an ls. Oh wait it’s the same.

[@kennethjones7239]

I don’t even know what you are talking about anymore, nor do I really care. You crossed over to where this is personal for you now. You attacked me when you said “Its obvious your understanding is limited on this subject” and I certainly reserve the right to defend myself, and did. For the last time, this procedure is profusely overkill, unnecessary and a total waste of time. If it gives you peace of mind then maybe it’s worth it for you. My opinion is clear and others will have to make their own decision. It has actually motivated me to produce my own content so that people can consume healthy subject matter from a bonafide resource. There is a plethora of misinformation out there, from people teaching that cam lift is how far the valve opens, the rational for ring gap, shimming a valve spring changes spring rate, the need to prime the oil system before cranking and the list goes on. This will give you a chance to critique my procedures. I will alert you once I bring this to fruition. As for now, let’s give it a rest.

[@Brainstangs]

Kenneth Jones personal? I think you crossed it when you said it was a true sign of a novice. Do you remember that part? You seem like a lot of talk and nothing to show for it. Where’s your channel ? You accuse me of making it personal when you think your the only one on this planet who understands engine basics. Why don’t you do a basic google search on priming any performance rebuilt engine and you will see builders like steve moris and Tom Nelson following such crazy stupid ideas that are just a waste of time. Remember priming a small block with a drill? I’m sure you know what I’m talking about. I made this video for those who like to see oil reach the top end before fire up. Little tricky with an ls based on oil pump design. Hence the reason to make the video. I bet you would be fine firing it dry without any lube. Did you check mellings site yet? Yes the recommend priming your ls the same way. You should start some comments with their engineers over there.