Betaflight 4.3 Complete Tuning Guide! Part 1: Are you ready for BF4.3?

[@JohnFSmitheugene]

Thanks!

[@ChrisRosser]

Thank you! Much appreciated.

[@CarbonGlassMan]

I know some people are really concerned with weight, but I use a clear double sided mounting tape under my Gopro mount and also screw it in place. I also use a rubber band around the battery to hold the balance plug against the battery and Velcro tape on the top plate and on each battery. I think the mounting tape under the gopro mount helps keep it still and really helps to prevent the screws from pulling through the holes. Just sharing what I do in case someone wants to try it.

[@bloatedgoatfpv]

So glad you are covering a basic quad as well as an AOS5!

[@ChrisRosser]

Me too! I think it will guarentee the tuning guide is applicable to budget builds as well as high spec frames like the AOS 5.

[@Spinal1515]

Super high quality content Chris! I have popcorn ready for the next episode :)

[@ChrisRosser]

I'm working on it now! Can't wait...

[@Atlas_FPV]

I love the concept of this tuning series, taking the worst quad and the best and tuning them together to see where the tunes and filters end up. I am eagerly looking forward to this tuning series. I found the tuning process to be different with 4.3, I tuned roll P/D ratio first, then pitch P/D and then master slider to hit the D-gains. Its nice that you can now remove FF, Dmin and I gain just off the sliders.

[@ChrisRosser]

That's a more traditional approach to tuning and works great. The only reason I tune master first is I find it easier to hear bounceback with high gains because the sound is sharper/clearer. I can hear bounceback before I can see it in the FPV feed so the sound is important for me. The fact that you can remove FF with sliders is certainly handy for hitting that P/D ratio. 😁

[@alexanderpalijjr]

You are truly awesome. Can’t wait to purchase flying ace this week

[@stimmungsasdrohnautfpv3830]

The good of tuning and PID´s again a big thanks for your work. In german we say: Ich küsse dein Herz

[@marcossobreiro96]

Hi Chris, I’m new here! I just wanted to thank you for the video but also add a little something for beginners - when you flash your ESCs, take a photo of the motor directions, and do not forget to reverse the ones that were reversed before the flashing, cheers!

[@ChrisRosser]

Great tip!

[@calmarcalmar]

just fixed my vtx antennas.. all tight now on board... ready for take off.. fasten your seatbelts -- thx Chris.

[@skyweaver3199]

Omg mate your a mad man for this. Thank you, we all thank you! Have the AOS 5, 5.5, I am building out a 3.5 now with a new vista.

[@ChrisRosser]

Glad I could help! Thank you so much for your support buying my frames. I hope they fly great for you.

[@jbizzbuildsmanstuff9932]

Also that point about the long vtx antenna I've been preaching for years. Instead of tpu I use nylon or pla instead and just drill what I need out or mod the file to go over the standoffs snug and helps out a ton! Also if you don't mind a couple extra grams the thick heatshrink with the glue in it will stop the wobble! Still hold the shape if you bend them and if in a crash won't pull apart. But I do that on my long range gear and keep everything seperate as best as possible!

[@ChrisRosser]

Yes, it really helps! So many people come to me with tuning issues and send me a photo and its the VTx antenna. That's the number 1 thing screwing up people's tunes right now in my experience.

[@runpuppyfpv5744]

I agree on the pla I have used it also I also have a theory about the soft tpu possibly absorbing some of the vibes when put in the right spots

[@jbizzbuildsmanstuff9932]

@@runpuppyfpv5744 I 1000000 % agree and about the tpu in the right spots! Cam mounts I use it as stack spacers and when everyone was playing with tape messing with frame resonance any of my bottom plate are mounting even in My ummagawd remix I make hair thin spacers for in between the plates vibration isolation to the arms and just by doing that on my 7in I was able to get rid of propwash lower my D way down and tuning was made a lot easier trying to chase ghosts vibrations I have a theory about arms being flat and air resistance I'm picking up the air flutter movement through vibration I definitely noticed it with longer VTX antennas another one's My Immortal t that's a bad one because they're kind of flimsy so I have to hard Mount them with TPU so antenna elements aren't just whipping around free and causing vibration especially when airs moving over it fast and fixed hella tuning issues so a hundred percent agree with you been doing this far too long ever since I first had something that had a gyro or anything with a pit controller other than just straight RC link I've had to do so much learning on tuning fast I miss cleanflight and how simple it was to tune I feel like betaflight 3.2 you just needed faster controller and F4 came out I always seem to be able to tune relatively easy but now there's so many features and things and betaflight I remember when Antigravity was a big deal for us and nobody knew what it really did they thought I had something to do with your throttle and how fast you could do punchouts or things like that but it just helps you fall gracefully

[@runpuppyfpv5744]

@@jbizzbuildsmanstuff9932 belive it or not I have used the o rings which came with the flight controllers on the motor screws between the motor and frame with great success also just put loctite on them and was able to fly with no issues even with a bent motor shaft I did this pre rpm filtering and even after

[@jbizzbuildsmanstuff9932]

@@runpuppyfpv5744 oh I believe it! Ppl said soft mounting motors doesn't help any but in fact they did it wrong! Only used tpu on one side of the crews usuially under the motor but when you tighten down the screws it pulls up on the frame and transfers the vibrations through the screw heads. If you use lt lick you said and use tpu on both sides with a washer you can have it snug but not tight and screws won't back out you totally isolate the harmonics to the motor or get ultra low resinance and can filter it out or add more i term. I came out with a motor mount solution but would require slight drilling but designed isolators that make full floating motors and can fly bent props missing blades and everything and not burn up your gear trying to fly back. It totally worked but diddnt think ppl were too keen on drilling holes bigger. It's science! But it's like guys like you and Dave c and Tommy and a couple others that really have did the homework and grunt work to make it easier for everyone to enjoy stress free flying hopefully! You like me been around the block and back with this stuff and glad you have this channel. I will be the first to admit when I don't know what I don't know. But usuially I come here along with a few other channels that are o. G. Like painless 360, Andyrc, I have a love hate for Bardwell lol but thank you for keeping the info obtainable for everyone without a degree in electronics engineering to understand you. I have that degree back in 99' but in my lifetime I've seen so much change just since the 80s that I know for a fact there's stuff that I don't know because it changes so fast and things I thought I knew where what was aren't anymore and what wasn't possible is so I keep an open mind nowadays and if I'm wrong I humbly admit that and I'll do my due diligence to figure out where I'm wrong and then correct myself they use you guys as reference and it seems to work out pretty well so thank you for the resources and all your hard work my ADHD keeps me from reading pull requests or tuning guides because my brain just goes numb and I'm thinking shiny things haha

[@yonirodriguez2936]

Oh Chris thanks for the consideración, i ask you few months ago about applying tuning stuff to a wizard 220, its true that its an "oldie" thing!, but still in general use by a very few people, thanks a lot for including for the explanation, greetings from Andalucía

[@andrewkhoolightstalker]

Thank you Chris! I'm very grateful that you're releasing this guide. Looking forward to watch and learn more from you! 🙇🏻‍♂️

[@ChrisRosser]

Thank you for your kind comment and I hope you find the videos useful.

[@KrotowX]

Thing about horizontally mounted VTX antennas is that in some positions antenna is hidden behind frame carbon which cause noticeable video noise. That is why antennas on stalks and 3D printed mounts became a thing. Though antennas which don't wobble, make better flight feeling in general, yes. Are JazzMaverick's BLHeli_M is not newer BLHeli_S compatible ESC firmware now? It is released at September 2021. Nice to see Eachine Wizard X220 still alive. It was cheap but nice training quad for the price.

[@ChrisRosser]

Good point about the VTx antenna, however you choose to mount it a rigid solution is essential for best flight performance. BLHeli_M is another firmware compatible with bidirectional d-shot (16.9 was released over a year ago in 2020). Bluejay is a more recent project and is what SugarK and others have recommended for BF4.3. I'm certain BLHeli_M will work fine as well and I've used it on many builds. That's the Eachine Wizard *V2* which is a significant upgrade over the original with 3mm plates and 5mm arms as well as more recent electronics (although not top of the line by any means!)

[@onemanmob6756]

No matter how you mount the vtx antenna on your quad, it will 'sometimes' be behind the frame, but a well-mounted antenna will reduce vibrations all the time

[@timothyciarlette8250]

Thanks Chris.

[@ChrisRosser]

Any time!

[@yaronskp]

Chris you are a legend!

[@kelvinwolf225]

Great video as always. Stellar idea taking two very different quads through this process. Gear matters!

[@ChrisRosser]

Thanks! 👍 I'm hoping to show the differences between the two quads as well as demonstrate that the process works for all types of quads not just high performance builds.

[@billmcdonald4335]

I'll be following this series as I'm planning to replace my TX and build a 3.5" next year. I'll be starting with an AOS frame, natch. . .

[@ChrisRosser]

Awesome, thanks for the support and hope you love the series.

[@billmcdonald4335]

@@ChrisRosser I've followed your advice and have a - and I use this word deliberately - perfect BF 4.2.9 tune on my 100mm entry-level micro. Between you and Mark over at UAV Tech, I probably have the best-flying example of this 3 year old platform that's still flying. It handled like a toaster with factory PIDs and 3.5.7. Now it's like we're telepathic. . .

[@nbchowning]

Great video series Chris! Do you recommend soft or rigid mounting for the flight controller and ESC/PDB?

[@coelhofpv2086]

Excellent!! Thank you. Now all we need is 4.3 and 10.8. ;-)

[@ChrisRosser]

Yes! I'll share the versions I'm using in the next video.

[@LizzzardRUS]

Already tried 4.3 without bi-directional (rpm filtering). Its flies like FalkoX, even sounds the same. But burned 60A hobbywing regulator)) Later found that motors traces was completely crazy. But it was flying absolutely amazing... for 2-3 minutes)

[@ChrisRosser]

I'm sorry to hear that! Hopefully this series will help you get the quad flying well on BF4.3 with no risk of smoking motors.

[@LizzzardRUS]

@@ChrisRosser Motors was totaly fine. Cold and sound super clear. When i found the quad, they was cold at least)) But couple mosfets was blown and diodes not worked as one way, how they should. I admit the chance that it was ESC fatigue, because it has already passed about 1000 batteries through itself. Regular current spikes just helped ESC go to heaven) Perhaps I shouldn't have turned off the RPM filter, but that won't do it for the sake of experiment. And perhaps it was not worth it to immediately fly aggressive on a new setting))

[@ChrisRosser]

@@LizzzardRUS Check out the Fettec spike absorber. It's really great for protecting ESCs and I talk about it in my AOS 5 perfect build video.

[@kenb6565]

I had 4.3 on a 6" die a mile out. Found the quad and it had crazy motor traces as well. Melted the motor wire solder joints right off motor 3. Not sure what caused it but motors were going full to off at high speed.

[@ColinZenger]

Thank you very much for updating the guides even before the final release, it will help a lot! Also I really enjoy the more detailed approach this time, if the other parts are also in this detail, I think this be even better than your other tuning guideline and be educational gold :-) Are you planning to share some thoughts on BF 4.2 vs. 4.3?

[@ChrisRosser]

Glad you are enjoying the guide! I'm going to really try and make this series *complete*, nothing left out but nothing unecessary added. I will definitely be making comparisons to BF4.2

[@thfpv4974]

Thank you Chris 🙏🏽🙌💯🥂

[@ChrisRosser]

You are so welcome! The next video will give you some safe builds for 4.3 and 10.8 for you to try if you want to.

[@juliankulisev3279]

wow wow wow following! thx for great work!

[@ChrisRosser]

Thanks for following! I'm excited to bring out this guide for you.

[@frankensteinfpv]

As always, very informative and well planned out. Can't wait for the rest of this series. Thanks Chris 👍

[@ChrisRosser]

Thanks, excited to bring it to you!

[@nikolaykostishen6402]

Thanks!!!

[@ChrisRosser]

No problem!

[@vonpwnz0r]

Must I use EDGE TX? The legend of having a dormant touch screen, ready to someday spring into action makes open-tx worth it. If my radio was meant to have a touch screen, open-tx 2.4 would have been here by now, right?

[@ChrisRosser]

Haha, Yes the potential of a touch screen is somehow more exciting and forbidden than just a working touch screen :P

[@tehllama42]

Not needed, but I find I basically never use touch screen features at the field anyway, and the key is that you want the latest CRSFShot enabled, ADC Filter disabled, always... and having to faff around with nightly builds of OpenTX to get it - might as well run EdgeTX

[@vonpwnz0r]

@@tehllama42 I was under the impression that CRSFShot was added to OpenTX this summer under the name "Synced Pulses".

[@p.1206]

@@tehllama42 touch screen keyboard makes it worth it

[@tehllama42]

@@p.1206 I mean, I guess. I just turn on my radio, and put goggles on, using basically the same model for everything, so I feel like I'm not the target audience for a touchscreen.

[@userunknown2771]

Thank you very much for the great guide. Did i understand correctly, that for example the Dynamic Dampening (D Max) is kept " OFF " for the whole tuning process? So in the case i succsessfully tuned my Max D Gain, and want to move on to feed forward tuning, i still keep D Max disabled ? Thanks for setting that clear

[@frigeratorguyfpv8333]

Your videos are always extremely informative. Thank you for all the effort that you put into making them. I'm following along with my highly modified GEPRC Smart 35. It uses the GEPRC F411 35A AIO flight controller. Before I go and mess everything up, I am trying to figure out if I can update it to run Bi-Directional DSHOT. I'm not sure if an AIO board can be updated on ESC-cofigurator like you have done in the video. I've been looking around, but I've not been able to find any information one way or the other. If you could give me some direction on this, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!

[@wmcewa01]

Does anyone know why the BF devs are suggesting edge tx? Getting all my models setup again sounds like a pain…

[@Kapharnaum92]

Definitely a series I will follow! Thank you Is this a BF4.3 launch annoncement? :)

[@ChrisRosser]

BF 4.3 is not officially launched yet but is getting very close. Just presets left to go (and we won't need them because we're going to be tuning ourselves!)

[@lorenz9893]

Tank you very much Chris!!👏 Do you already know how long it will take until you upload the next video? I can't wait for it!

[@ChrisRosser]

I'll try and get the next one done in the next 1-2 weeks

[@nm90fpv97]

Is this guide also for ducted or prop guarded quads like the 95xV3 or a even smaller whoop? Looking forward to the upcoming videos and thanks a lot for your videos. They made me able to get into tuning

[@ChrisRosser]

Yes. This guide is for all brushless quads of any shape and size.

[@tuhotomi]

Thanks again Chris! Nice info there 👌 But please please turn off your noise gate on your audio recording 🗣 Pops really nasty. Use compressor instead if needed..

[@ChrisRosser]

Sorry about that! I'll try without the noise gate for the next video.

[@tuhotomi]

@@ChrisRosser No worries! I bet you’ll make it as awesome as possible 🙂

[@zombie.cycles]

Hi Chris, you make very helpfull Guides, thanks alot for them. 2 Questions for the future: Can you make a tuning guide for FC that have no Blackbox? Do you plan to make also a Emuflight Tuning guide?

[@ChrisRosser]

Both of those topics are on the cards. Tuning for FC without blackbox is already part of my existing PID tuning guide and will be included in the guide for 4.3 as well. Emuflight tuning guide will coincide with release of Emu 1.0.

[@xmltree]

Ready..., oh yes ... Wonderful announcement project Chris, I'm looking for your serie on 4.3 Let me just give you a positive feedback on how I learn and progress with your videos on filtering and tuning, and how satisfying it is when you start to really understand what and how filters work, as well as PID parameters, instead of just randomly moving sliders without understanding what's really happening in the many loops, contributing to make your Quad follow your sticks as fast and precisely as possible for a set of hardware, with as many parasites movements as possible. And may bee suggest few general points of general interest you may address in your coming videos. I understand you are putting a huge amount of work to elaborate such efficient tutorial content, and whatever You'll do, it'll be wonderful for many of us., The general ideas of my comments being mainly to give you a feedback of the interests of your audience, and sure learn more and more as I can formulate my questions. With the solid help of your vids(many thanks on that Chriss), I already flash 4.3 build 2538, on a 5', freestyle, GPS, diy build, running on Mamba F405US stack, using BTF Nightly configurator 10.8 #4137 CLI version # Betaflight / STM32F405 (S405) 4.3.0 Oct 10 2021 / 03:29:25 (0b3a5a651) MSP API: 1.44 # config: manufacturer_id: DIAT, board_name: MAMBAF405US, version: ec268d11, date: 2021-07-26T13:10:45Z # board: manufacturer_id: DIAT, board_name: MAMBAF405US I couldn't have it fly nice on 4.2, and now on this 4.3 build, fly just great, kind of unbelievable to me. But strangely enough, I can't get usage of BlackBoxRecordings, what I was using on 4.2. (so I tuned, following your explanations first, than my eyes, ears and fingers (motor temp) which worked great for, at least for the beginning but deprive me of the beauty of tuning by measured and plotted parameters ...). So here are the questions I have to uderstand how to choose the best adapted build environment (BTF, BTF conf, BlackBox, OpenTx, EdgeTx, LUAscripts and CRSF), till the finals released will be matured, which will take probably many extra months ....). How to chose to move to recent builds ? What has to be understand of the development process (except it's a my own risks...), when you see ten new builds appearing as yesterday night ? Like by the end of october10 th to today october 25th, Jenkins publish 4 new builds (2538 to 2542). Should we go for the last one (2542) asap, cause more work implemented, and Dev are happy so far for the night, or maybe the night is over, Dev are tired and go to bed till next week ? Even if a new bug had stopped them ..., making that last build maybee more hazardous than an older one ? My question may sound naive but Dev are humans, they work in companyes to pay the rent, and some time they may like to sleep, among many others cool things to do. When I'm surprised by an unusual comportment of a BTFLnightly build, should I dig in and try to report, or there is already thousands of guys doing it better than me, and so let people work and wait till nex build ? For example: Some software Quad behavior: In my case the BlackBoxExporer 3.5 software not being able anymore to upload usable files (BackBox build, BTFL build BTFLconf build, My stack not compliant enough to specs for 4.3, well ... it could be so many things ..) GPS issue in the some fly: On the same arming session I get up to 24 satelites, than 0, than back to 15 (I use also gallileo) when flying in big and high same circles. I never had his before with the same hardware and I tryied 3 differents GPS tested on other builds ... If you suggest reporting may be of some help for all these great open source dev, could you show us how to report to be as efficient, non invasiv and usefull as possible ? And the last question regarding OpenTx and LUA scrits with BTF 4.3 (Taranis X9d+ as yours). Being a huge fan of Telemetry (CRSF) and LUA scripts, I was wondering how, where and when we’ll find these updates in OpenTx ? (Well Actually you already gave us part of an answer …. move to EdgeTx ...)

[@ChrisRosser]

It is the nature of software development that there will be many new versions with bugs and problems of all kinds. I do not recommend anyone except software engineers and testers to ever use pre-release code. Especially not for something as potentially dangerous as a drone. I would always suggest to wait for the release or at least for a build recommendation that is known to be stable and safe.

[@sylvanlight120]

Great vid as always. I'm a few days into a sharkbyte AOS 5 build now. So this series has come at the right time. I even have one of those little iflight antennas to install. Would you soft mount motors? Also, I got my AOS 5 frame from unmannedtech... Is the version with carbon washers under the front standoffs an old design or an updated one? Superb frame to work on, though I have had to file some of the holes out on the bottom plate and motor screw holes... The hole placement is the most precise I've come across though... Not surprised you can get away with tiny tolerances on screw hole diameter... 👍 Can't wait to fly it 😁

[@ChrisRosser]

I wouldn't soft mount motors myself. I do use mechanical damping grease on the frame to reduce vibration though. All versions of the AOS 5 use carbon washers to ensure standard length standoffs are used and they are all the same length in case you fancy buying a different colour!

[@sheapyfpv8224]

Great video Chris would I have to change settings like u did on Ur controller for my tango 2?

[@Fly_High_FPV]

I've been very interested in your opinions on TPU antenna tails. Using zipties to secure antennas and gopros make for a really flimsy quad, that will not hold up well in a crash (I bash concrete with my Marmottes). I've done alot of work testing PLA (brittle) PETG (less brittle), and Nylon (better, but expensive), CFNylon (better , but very expensive) but none of them can take punch like TPU. If I use TBS SMA pigtail, squarely mounted in TPU, with a short carbon matchstick antenna, everything is nice and stiff and secure with no wobble. It can bend the antenna if I push it, but the mount doesnt wiggle. I'm curious if I need to be concerned about your warnings against TPU tails, if my antennas are stiff? Also I have been thinking that traditionally, TBS pigtail mounts have the screw tabs oriented horizontally to allow the antenna to flex up and down more in a crash. Rotatng it 90 degrees with the pigtail tabs facing front to back in stead of side to side should also reduce the antenna wobble on the vertical axis (and may break more pigtails). Curious if you think antenna mounts made of TPU can perform well...because as a builder it seems like the material is a godsend for durable mounts. Thanks for what you're doing for the community!

[@ChrisRosser]

I would not use an SMA antenna at all. They are big, heavy and prone to failure regardless of the mount. A thin flexible antenna similar to the one on my AOS 5 in that video is phenomenally more durable, lighter and less expensive to replace. If you tape such an antenna in the right location you'll never break it. 😁

[@Fly_High_FPV]

@@ChrisRosser hmm, pigtails are definitely cheaper to replace than antennas, and a large part of the strain relief that keeps my vtx and antennas safe. I can definitely afford the weight of a 3 gram pigtail to make the video system more robust...maybe not on an micro, but certainly on a rig that's built around a Hero 10

[@ricardoferreira2811]

ESC firmware: why Bluejay instead of Bl-heli? The typical 5 beeps are gone now...

[@ChrisRosser]

Bluejay is recommended by the devs for BF4.3 and significant testing has been done with it. Also the default timings on Bluejay are better than those on BLHeli_M which makes configuration easier for more pilots.

[@stylesuxx]

But we have a melody editor, you can add any startup tune you want - even the 5 beeps if you prefer to. A lot of work has been put into Bluejay: A lot of Bugs that still were in BlHeli_S have been fixed and new features have been added. We even have feedback from pro racing pilots switching back to BLHeli_S ESCs with Bluejay instead of BlHeli_32.

[@sunsetpark_fpv]

@ 2:11 I see 2 XT60 connectors....can you expound on this??

[@ChrisRosser]

I explain it in my launch video for the AOS 7. Check it out!

[@Nico-dj3gu]

What is your suggestion on mounting the VTX-antenna for a long range build? Im using the lumineer axii long range antenna. Also my crossfire antenna is mounted vertically on the back with a wobbly tpu print, ensuring its far away from the lipo and carbon etc.

[@stevejakab]

Nice video, but esc-configurator doesn't support BL Heli 32; I get this message: BLHeli_32 not supported, please use dedicated configurator. My ESCs are up-to-date with the latest firmware however. This is for an iFlight 20x20 stack for a 3" quad

[@jbizzbuildsmanstuff9932]

Chris! Do you have any issues with your vtx antenna mounted on the brace like that with the carbon so close? I know it's dji but my crossfire when I mount the tips near the arms on my 3inch I get crazy video noise but only when I have a stubby omni on it. Foxeer lolly pop mini doesn't do that but same foxeer antenna without the lead on it just a ufl mounted close like the stubby on a tpu mount and same issue. Maybe it's just the 900mhz but my video is 5.8 Wich should be far enough away from interference. When I thought maybe it's the antennas and just the carbon I moved the immortal to the center of the bottom plate on my gecko and cleared up. It's digital now and took the turtle and tbs nano32 out and I get lines again not from the motor. It changes with the stick movements oddly enough. Like whe. I was on 2.4 ibus and analog 5.8 and the antennas were grounding out on eachother.

[@ChrisRosser]

I get perfectly acceptable range and penetration with the iFlight Sigma mounted like that. It's a good idea to keep antennas as far away from each other as possible to avoid interference. Your RX antennas also transmit so you need to keep them away from the VTx antennas as far as possible (even though they are on different frequencies).

[@jbizzbuildsmanstuff9932]

@@ChrisRosser I understand that completely I just was curious due to the face I use crsf and know my telem is transmitted back to my TX and that requires bi directional communication and would require a tx in the rx. Crsf I think it's 15mw tx or somthing for telem. I Diddnt know if that would back feed through the frame at all and give you any type of wacky interference but digital would filter that out a bit by the nature of digital but though crsf was digital too or transmitted analog packets in a digital manner close enough to effect sb or somthing. Might just be me overthinking things they couldn't hurt to ask you I keep everything as far away as possible as best I can but when you're working with micro drones and anything under 3 in space gets kind of tight I usual put like my crossfire in front and my video in the rear or the receiver antenna underneath the frame with the elements poking out in between the arms but with low-speed maneuvers you know my are psychos the crap as you could probably figure out why the arms are probably blocking it or the frame I moved it back to the back have better RSSI had to play around with the bands and channels to figure out what was far enough away from 900 or 915 andon 5.8 low enough that my antennas will still work but give me better range than the higher spectrum of 5.8 I'm usually hovering around 5.6 to 5.7 because I discovered my antennas are pretty close to tune to those frequencies more than 5.8 is I have some that are Tunes better around 5.9 but a majority work the best on the lower frequencies of 5.8 but I start getting close to the 900 so B3 happens to be my favorite an analog and it works the best or whatever is closest to be 3 on SharkBite I get the best range penetration and Clarity on that channel even when flying with three other people they're on race band I can't remember what channel is close to B3 on race but the only time I have an issue is when I go higher in the Spectrum which kind of makes sense because lower the frequency along the wave the better the penetration and range

[@mazaispiileens]

Hey, Chris! So thankfull for these tutorials! I have a 3inch drone that I have tried tuning with no luck. One question - Where to find "Sample mode" setting? I have tx16s with crossfire. Is it even needed for crsf?

[@ChrisRosser]

Head on over to my discord and ask in the support hanger 👍

[@AGILISFPV]

Whoop tuning video please!

[@ChrisRosser]

This video series should be applicable for brushless whoops. Are you using brushed motors on your whoops?

[@AGILISFPV]

@@ChrisRosser oh interesting ok! Definitely brushless for me.

[@contouraerials]

If updating to edgeTX will that affect other models on your radio? i.e. will all models need to migrate?

[@ChrisRosser]

Yes, but that should happen automatically without too much issue.

[@owencroney2089]

how long does it take for the edgeTX flasher to write to the SD card? i've been an hour waiting and it seems to be crashed/stuck "preparing SD card" fetching index, Erasing card. clicking close wont cancel it, tried this process over and over, always stalls here.

[@seekerfpv]

Did you get it to work? I'm having the same issue, I'm trying a second sd card as I type this.

[@owencroney2089]

@@seekerfpv i coulnt get the edgeTx flasher to work so i went directly to github and downloaded the firmware directly

[@seekerfpv]

@@owencroney2089 thanks for replying! I ended up doing the same.. Oh well.

[@LeslieWorks]

Need a link for part2 in the description! I found it though

[@TuxedoFPV]

Hi Chris, your guides have always been phenomenal and your 4.3 guide is no exception, my quad is flying beautifully now. I do have one issue though, which is jello in my camera (both the analog camera and runcam thumb). Do you have any tips for troubleshooting what is vibrating on my build? I've gone over it and everything seems secure. Or is jello high enough frequency that it indicates an issue of isolating the camera from the motors themselves? Thank you.

[@marcusgreco]

Hey man I have a TBS Mambo. Do I have to switch that to edgetx or can I just stick with the freedom to it comes with?

[@ChrisRosser]

The upgrade to EdgeTX is only for OpenTX radios. If you are running freedomTX then I think you are absolutely fine!

[@Desert-edDave]

I wonder what it takes to get BF Config LUA to work with EdgeTX 2.6/2.7 and BF 4.3. Worked fine prior to upgrade.

[@BelmontFPV]

can you add links in the description to the other videos for this series?

[@AerialWaviator]

Thanks for doing this, it looks like an interesting and informative series. Chris, at 1:32 you say "a frame designed for the best possible performance". What you mean by performance? Think it needs a bit of context. Performance for racing could mean something different than performance for freestyle, or other types flying. Maybe this is something you can touch on later, or after the tuning series? Am curious if any differences in tuning for 2, or 3 blade propellers? (a premature Q, as noticing both the reference drones are 3x 5")

[@ChrisRosser]

Flight performance. Lot's more detail on aos-rc.com.

[@AerialWaviator]

@@ChrisRosser Thanks.

[@KrotowX]

Chris, can you make a tutorial about 65-75mm whoop tuning without Blackbox logs? I have Mobula7 75mm whoop where original F3 FC after water damage was replaced to CrazyBee F4 2.0 FC (F3 boards are now obsoleted and out of stock). And external TBS Nano RX. Nothing is loose. It flies, but something is not right with tuning. Noticeable overshoot and wobbling on hard turns. For more fun these FC's doesn't have flash memory for logs and all UARTs are already taken (SmartAudio and Nano RX).

[@ChrisRosser]

The tuning guide will have steps for those without BB logging 😁 Typically whoops need less P gain than 5"

[@tehllama42]

EdgeTX not needed - but honestly anything that results in disabling ADC Filter is worth doing.

[@ChrisRosser]

SugarK and some of the other devs were pretty adament that the improvements to the communication between the radio and the module (in terms of latency and packet rate) were valuable for BF4.3. I agree it's maybe not an essential upgrade, but it's quick and easy so why not? 😁

[@tehllama42]

@@ChrisRosser Yes, the key part isn't the latency, but backet arrival consistency. I would also agree that ELRS 2.4 is the most cost-effective improvement across the board, but not really necessary. I still have another 36 quads to move to ELRS, and haven't been in that big a hurry.

[@Desert-edDave]

Disabling ADC is also an option in OpenTX...

[@vladz7454]

You forgot to tell to keep direction on ESC Normal/Reversed as it were before flashing because esc-configurator will reset every ESC to Normal direction after flash. Which would be disastrous result.

[@Petr_S_oP]

hi nice video I have one question regarding the Taranis setup. ADC filter is turned off. I don't have a sample mod like you. Max baudrate only. What value should I set? 115KBps / 400KBps / 921KBps / 1.87MBps / 3.75MBps or 5.25MBps ? I use ELRS and I don't know if it has any effect. Thank you for your help.

[@jajaka4284]

Wow super series ! But I habe a problem. My esc is a blheli 32 esc but wehn I enable bidirectional Dshot then I cant arm my quad. Also I dont hear al beap sound. Should I update my esc to blujey or waht can I do

[@mhr1363]

Make a video about Spektrum radios and their settings

[@ChrisRosser]

I would love to but I have no experience of Spectrum radios at all, Sorry!

[@vikoxss8898]

Hello, i just flashed the esc firmware as shown in the video on my speedybee f7 mini wich was on bl heli s... the problem is know i have weird beeping, wich is really anoying and my motors do not turn the right way, but with the firmware that i flashed i can not connect to any other applications.. thanks in advance

[@ChrisRosser]

Motor direction can be configured in BF configurator motors tab. If you flashed to bluejay you'll need to use esc-configurator.com/ to change beep settings.

[@s.fendless9107]

Some H7 Flight Controllers under Betaflight 4.3 experiencing motor loss issue while enabled bi-directional Dshot， casing two or three motors of quan stop responding，is there any workaround？

[@imothy]

where is the part 2 video?

[@MrSmithFPV]

Why it is needed to upgrade the Radio to EdgeTX? Never heard of that firmware before. Why BF 4.3 needs this firmware instead of OpenTX. Iam using a Tango 2 with FreedomTX that means I don't need to switch over to EdgeTX right? Because iam getting firmware updates via TBS Agent.

[@ChrisRosser]

The upgrade to EdgeTX is only recommended for radios running OpenTX. If you are not currently running OpenTX (e.g. you are running freedom TX) then you probably don't need to upgrade and are fine to keep using freedomTX 😁

[@VonDiten]

Hi Chris, I'm learning a lot with your videos. I just have a question, though. Before you flashed the ESC Firmware, the modes were Normal/Reversed/Reversed/Normal, the same way they were in my quad. After you flashed it with blujay, they were all Normal (the same happened to me), you let this settings that way (at least in this video). I'm going to reverse the ESC 2 and 3, cause I'm not planning to go with Betaflight 4.3 just yet, but I wanted 42khz pwm freq. Can you tell me please, if I'm doing wrong reversing those ESCs? Thanks

[@ChrisRosser]

Good question, you can double check motor direction by arming with props off and checking that the motors are spinning the direction shown in BF configurator's motors/configuration tab!

[@VonDiten]

@@ChrisRosser Thanks for you promptly response, yes, that's what I did (I don't like too much powering the drone, even without props, much less power the motors, I feel like they will burn almost instantly, but that didn't happened :) ). After all, I reversed motors 2 and 3 in Bluejay, then I tested it from betaflight and seemed right, and then I put the props and went out and did a very small test (I don't have such a big backyard), the quad went up smoothly, I would keep watching your tuning/pids/rates videos. Thanks.

[@MyJam1981]

adc off and one bit on thanks for that any idea what max bauds 400000 is for ? i use elrs 2.0 edge tx

[@runpuppyfpv5744]

I fancy all your content Mr. Rosser ! I have a question about the aos 5" I'm still really wanting to get one but am wondering will they come with the new aos arm carbon or will that need to be purchased separately ?

[@ChrisRosser]

The AOS Arm carbon isn't being supplied for the AOS 5 frames yet becuase I'm not yet sure it provides a benefit for the truss shaped arms. They are already incredibly stiff and strong due to the shape.

[@runpuppyfpv5744]

@@ChrisRosser my mistake I just assumed the aos i the name meant it was intended for the aos line of frames

[@chrisyoung8062]

Why EdgeTX? Is it the sample mode setting? What does that do exactly? Do lua scripts run on Edge as they do on OpenTX? Will Crossfire for example work properly? Thanks Chris.

[@ChrisRosser]

Hi Chris, EdgeTX is a fork of open TX with some additional features and bugfixes to improve performance with high packet rate control links. Your radio settings, models and lua scripts are all transferable. EdgeTX supports all the same protocols as OpenTX including crossfire.

[@drukinsify]

Hi Chris, will I need to switch to Edge TX for my QX7 that I already did the inverter mod on? I'm currently on the latest Open TX and using Crossfire for my quads. Thanks.

[@ChrisRosser]

Yes you should. The new features are handy for BF4.3

[@drukinsify]

@@ChrisRosser Thanks for the quick reply! Will switch then 😄

[@kwazy_]

@@drukinsify hi ! did you activate the onebit mode on your qx7 with edge tx ?

[@jamesshields5958]

Hi Chris. Re' Edge TX, I use the integrated Google Earth Pro function in Open TX Configurator to view my GPS-based flight paths. Is this also possible in Edge TX? Also, re' radio back-ups, can you transfer a back up from the Open TX Configurator to Edge TX? Thanks!

[@ChrisRosser]

I believe EdgeTX works with OpenTX configurator and you can transfer your model and radio settings from OpenTX to EdgeTX.

[@juniorfpv4824]

Thank you Chris, I have the Macbook how can i put in dfu mode x9d plus without using impulse rc?

[@ChrisRosser]

Oooh I dont know, I'm not a Mac User. Come over to my discord and ask in teh support hanger :D

[@airgunningcolorado78]

Opentx seems to be working fine w/ 4.3. Curious what's the difference. The one bit? My baud rate is at 400khz which is max. Is that the difference?

[@joeybanana7884]

don't forget the dampening Grease 😁

[@mihavuk]

Really great tutorial. 👍 One small remark though, no offense please. Have you seen Frsky Access protocol tests from UAVTech? They simply doesn't fit to your recommendation to avoid Frsky. Unless you had ACCST in mind. But even then... Is switching to super fast protocol so crucial? I did try ExpressLRS quad. It's great. But I haven't noticed any difference between that and classic 2.4 GHz rc link such as Flysky, Spectrum, Frsky. Maybe that's because I'm an average person. I'm not a good pilot. On the other hand, I do notice the difference between DJI HQ mode and low latency mode. Up to the point where I wouldn't use HQ mode at all. Again, I appreciate your work, I am learning from you, I will follow this series, so please no offense, I'm just expressing my thoughts. 😉

[@ChrisRosser]

I have to be honest, Frsky's behaviour in the hobby in recent years has put me off them completely and I won't use or recommend their products. The fact that the ACCESS protocol is not backwards compatible with their old radios or old BNF micros demonstrates a willingness to go against the best interests of their customers. Performance wise ACCESS is not competetive with ExpressLRS in terms of range and penetration. Packet rate is less important than consistency of packet delivery with BF 4.3. Dropped packets cause problems with RC smoothing. The excellent RF performance of LoRa really helps in this situation.

[@lorenz9893]

Hello Chris, yesterday I tried flashing my Taranis QX7 to EdgeTX. In the github instructions it says, that I have to copy the MODELS and RADIO folders to get my settings and models on the new firmware. The SD-Card that was in my QX7 has no RADIO folder. Is this a problem? How can I get my settings restored on the new firmware? Best regards!

[@ChrisRosser]

Use the edgeTX flasher here: github.com/EdgeTX/flasher/releases *When you tick erase SD card it will preserve models and radio settings* . I don't have a RADIO folder either so don't worry. Make a backup just in case and follow along with the video choosing V2.5.0.

[@lorenz9893]

@@ChrisRosser thank you very much! I'll try this later.

[@Shauny_D]

Man i can’t take the time out of my gigs and ask the inverted in between to flash firmware and try edge tx. Sounds great but a lot of work and testing before gig ready

[@ChrisRosser]

I understand, if it's your job you need to keep using consistent gear. However, if you are looking to upgrade to BF4.3 then you should move to EdgeTX. It'll take you a *lot longer* to transistion from BF4.2 to BF4.3 than it will take you to update your radio from OpenTX to EdgeTX I can tell you that much!

[@Shauny_D]

@@ChrisRosser That is a great watch out. Maybe once the snow settles in this year I'll have a safe couple of days to work on updating. ELRS is fantastic btw. I just converted my backup betafpv lite radio to ELRS. Not sure if that one can run edge though.

[@MrAlucardDante]

@@Shauny_D Is it the original Lite Radio 2 running open tx or is it the SE version ? I think the former can be update using the x7 target, I’m sure that the SE version cannot, since it’s not running opentx

[@Shauny_D]

@@MrAlucardDante hmm good question. It is the lite 2 original from a couple years ago. I bought the elrs circuit board to swap out that says it is also compatible with the se version so I have no idea where it falls now. Haven't paid much attention. It is just my little backup I keep in the trunk for commercial gigs.

[@enricobononi8655]

how do you solve the issue of having TPU protection and motor screw as you can tight them a lot due to the TPU?

[@ChrisRosser]

It's tricky, I use damping grease on teh screws to stop them backing out and do them up as tight as I can without crushing the TPU.

[@anvyfpv]

Hi Chris. Does the edge TX configurator make a SD card backup to keep models luas etc? Or should I do it manually? Thanks

[@ChrisRosser]

It preserves your models and radio settings but not scripts.

[@AERR_FPV]

Hey Chris can I copy and install scripts

[@anvyfpv]

@@ChrisRosser grazie

[@laimonas100]

backup Your sd card anyway

[@ChrisRosser]

I think the most recent versions of betaflight and express lrs lua scripts work with edgetx 2.5

[@marcusgreco]

Hey man just wanted to thank you for telling me to switch to Bluejay Blheli s over bl heli m. Not because of better performance… (BORING) but because now when I power on my quad… I can rick roll someone 😂

[@ChrisRosser]

Haha! Yes, that's the best reason to switch 😁

[@stylesuxx]

Yes, that has been our killer feature for some time now :-D

[@comsterfpv9668]

I saw he flashed Bluejay in this guide but didn't find much discussion after a short search. Is there a performance difference from M? That's what I flashed a little while back. I'm not motivated to reflash just for the melody.

[@stylesuxx]

@@comsterfpv9668 If you are happy with BLHeli_M, stay with it. Biggest difference is, that Bluejay has quite some bugs fixed that were still in the original BLHeli_S (and probably are in M too) and still has ongoing development. BLHeli_M is pretty much abandoned at this point.

[@comsterfpv9668]

@@stylesuxx Got it thanks!

[@timon72489]

Will I get the same step response if I transfer my pids from 4.2.9 to 4.3?

[@ChrisRosser]

I think that should work yes. You may need to do a little fine tuning but the values should be applicable. Be careful pasting CLI dumps though!

[@timon72489]

@Chris Rosser Thanks for the fast response! Will you also explain in your video's what you can paste and what not?

[@JoshuaBardwell]

@@timon72489 this video was made for 4.1 but it still applies to 4.2 and 4.3 kzbin.info/www/bejne/n3a4oqlmoLR1ZqM

[@timon72489]

@@JoshuaBardwell Thanks!

[@nuk3m3vil]

is there a way to turn off ADC filter in the Tango 2 ?

[@anti4354]

Off by default in freedomtx i think

[@ChrisRosser]

It's off by default I think and you don't need to change it (not sure there's even a setting for it) :)

[@fpv_dartion3316]

Tango 2 has no ADC filter - because it has digital gimbals and needs no stick filtering. According to Mike Chin from TBS

[@ChrisRosser]

@@fpv_dartion3316 Thanks for the info!

[@199wildman]

Do you really need to switch to edge tx?

[@prottentogo]

On my Tango 2 there is no Sample Mode. Is that normal?

[@junglistfpv8553]

For what its worth, its not on mine either. Nor can I find the ADC Filter actually! So I'm limited to 250hz with crossfire tango 2 I think

[@ChrisRosser]

If you don't have those settings that's OK. That means it's set correctly by default and you can't change it!

[@prottentogo]

@@junglistfpv8553 Hm, I do have the ADC option, but not sample mode.

[@junglistfpv8553]

@@prottentogo Would you mind letting me know where you found it? Would appreciate it!

[@albert91tgn]

What if I use the DJI radio? What settings on 4.3?

[@ChrisRosser]

For DJI you can set serial receiver and sbus. Then if you want the fast baud rate just set sbus_baud_fast = ON in betaflight CLI and choose the fast sbus mode in the DJI goggles. Settings are the same as 4.2 AFAIK so just paste those lines from your diff.

[@zaplocked]

w/r/t mechanicals and screw tightness - why don't we have community standards or "best practices" for screw torque on frames? Theres plenty of appropriate tools out there for the gunsmithing and bike world that we could integrate into our build plans - I just got a FAT Wrench for torquing down and optic mount

[@ChrisRosser]

It's a good point. Probably because many pilots don't own torque screwdrivers/wrenches!

[@zaplocked]

@@ChrisRosser I feel like gunsmith / fpv stuff is in the same price range these days, and a similar level of enthusiasm. Though the former has over a century of best practices attached to it I guess, and a different regulatory structure. A little torque wrench is definitely within the budget of a normal fpvers workbench.

[@Lordprimate]

is 4.3 actually out or is this a release candidate build? edit : dammit i just watched the beginning of the second video. question answered

[@ChrisRosser]

This is still a development build so not even a release candidate. It's definitely flyable but I wouldn't recommend pre relase software.

[@noramas.]

Bluejay or JazzMaverick?

[@ChrisRosser]

The BF devs are recommending BlueJay for 4.3

[@robi5722]

BLHeli_M (JazzMaverick), that's what I use, completely free!

[@noramas.]

JazzM support switching between 24k, 48k and 96k. This is awesome

[@BrandonBeans]

I've seen issues arise with jazz (blheliM) and they go away with jesc or bluejay. I recommend bluejay

[@noramas.]

@@BrandonBeans what kind of issues?

[@spitfeueranna]

Edge TX svx. Avoid I don't know why you would recommend that Nobody needs the messed up UI personality of a split touch screen grafted on top of a roller interface. We found that out with Windows 8

[@ChrisRosser]

I believe EdgeTX is recommended by the BF devs for 4.3 due to some of the under the hood improvements to the communication between the radio and the external module to reduce latency and support higher packet rates and avoid the need for hardware inverter mods for some radios. Consistent (and high if possible) radio packet rate is even more important for BF4.3 and I think EdgeTX provides a benefit there. Touch screen support is coming to OpenTX too, eventually. It might be possible to build EdgeTX without touch screen support if you want to.

[@MrAlucardDante]

EdgeTX is a fork of OpenTX, so it has the same code as OpenTX plus optimizations. You can change the layout on your home screen to match the default OpenTX screen. The comparison to Windows 8 makes absolutly no sense here

[@spitfeueranna]

​@@ChrisRosser O wpm O wpm I won't be running it. The big radio manufacturers are still goign to put Open TX on their products, so Edge TX is a fringe product that is doomed. They have a big investment of embedded marketing, marketing their radios as OpenTX compatible or runing OpenTX, and they are not about to change their marketing or websites from some flakey new derivative whipped up by a bunch of impatient amateur programmers who graft on some whiped up touch screen code.

[@ChrisRosser]

@@spitfeueranna You could have said the same about Betaflight when it forked from Cleanflight. You could have said the same about ExpressLRS. You could have said the same about AM32. All those projects got support from manufacturers. EdgeTX will too, espcially because it already works on so many radios. The future is very bright for EdgeTX. They have made so many improvements to performance and functionality in such a short time. As for manufacturers they will simply put EdgeTX compatible on their website alongside OpenTX and start flashing their radios with that firmware. It happened with betaflight and cleanflight and it will happen again. Especially given how long some manufacturers have been waiting for software support for touchscreens on their radios! They will always go with the more responsive and fast moving project.

[@TimsDrones]

Geeze - they still got fatal bugs in their recent release of BF4.2.10 - there are at least 2 FCs that have the motor mapping screwed up in BF4.2.10. Not holding my breath waiting for an unknown (random?) development version of BF4.3.

[@ChrisRosser]

You can rest assured that I will NOT be recommending people use unreleased firmware. I will do my best to provide a working build of 4.3 for those who simply *must* try it now with the warning that it may still have dangerous bugs.

[@HERSDT_FPV]

4:04 Never *!!!!NEVER!!!!* connect ground from electrick part of quad to carbon frame. It can destoy your FC. Burn uarts.

[@ChrisRosser]

I have to disagree. The frame of the quad will almost always be connected to ground, either through the flight controller stack screw holes, the ESC screw holes, the motor screws or the antenna SMA (the outside shield is ground). Having the frame connected to ground is not a problem and will not put any components at risk (it's similar to a PC where the metal case of the PC will also *always* be connected to ground) Having ANY other connection (especially VBat) touching the frame can cause problems, however.

[@HERSDT_FPV]

@@ChrisRosser no. I have 20 year experience in electronics repair... and I thought the same as you now ... Before my FCs start to burn ))) Than i found problem )

[@Desert-edDave]

@@HERSDT_FPV If your FC's are shorting to ground, stop allowing positive voltage rails to touch the frame. The frame itself has a likelihood of being grounded through mounting PCBs whose mounting points are (most of the time) part of the ground plane of the PCB, just like computer motherboards. With '20 years of experience', you should already know this. I get a kick out of you (trying to) flying around with vbat, 3.3, 5v, or 9v hot on your frames though, good for a chuckle. 🤣

[@ibnfpv]

As a master of vibration analysis (: , please remove the filamnet spool from the top of your printer (:

[@ChrisRosser]

I know, but it prints *great* so I'm not going to change anything about that setup, ever. Unless, it stops printing well, of course!

[@ibnfpv]

@@ChrisRosser ha ha, yep in printers the “if it's work don't touch” is great (; principle, until you burn something and then you need to become printers guro /:

[@Zattoo20]

# set blackbox_p_ratio = 16 #SAFE ###ERROR IN set: INVALID NAME#### signature #TO_CHECK (maybe safe) ###ERROR IN signature: INVALID LENGTH: 22 (EXPECTED: 64)###

[@DavePencilguin]

:D

[@ChrisRosser]

Yeah! Here we go. And first to boot!

[@Desert-edDave]

EdgeTX Flasher is kind of garbage and not reliable for building your SD card, better to just get contents from their github page. and load manually, otherwise... "Fetching index..." with no progress is what you may experience. You'll still have to modify SD card contents to add other LUA scripts (such as BF Lua) anyway...

[@MS-nj9le]

If you make a frame / quad kit that requires absolutely no Fklng soldering, I will buy it. Otherwise, forget it. That to me is a "high spec quad". Otherwise, it's just a rubbish box of parts that will never fly. I bought several of those already and got burned.

[@ChrisRosser]

If you are struggling with soldering you can pick up a bind and fly quad to get in the air easily. You will need to learn to solder eventually in the hobby though. A good temperature controlled iron (TS100), flux and plenty of practice is key. Make sure to buy practice boards to learn on rather than using your components to avoid damaging expensive parts. Also, for any new pilots reading this: triple-double-and-re-triple-check polarity (V+ and GND) on every component to avoid burning out parts.