BMW R1100RT Final drive oil change

[@docimastic]

I've got the manuals, but I don't know what I would do without you guys and your videos that I find so so helpful! Thank you so much for taking the time to make the video and post it. David

[@pipersg1]

ALWAYS remove the fill plug first. If you can't remove it for any reason after draining the oil, you have an immobilized motorcycle.

[@tentacola4543]

3:48 is a critical life lesson delivered perfectly

[@luiseloycanterogutierrez8870]

Advice! Try tu focus the camera manually instead of using auto-focus, in order to avoid the noise of the camera motor trying to adjust the image while you move your arm. Great video. Best wishes from Spain.

[@mst10506]

Would be helpful to stress examination of the drain plug magnet - don't just clean it off. Stuff on the magnet should just be a pasty residue. More than paste? Shiney metal flakes are the signs that ball bearings or the race are wearing away. If you see much flakes, you should do another FD oil change in 500 miles. It's only a few dollars of oil. If the second oil change also has metal flakes you should get the big bearing on the FD replaced. If you ignore it, you'll have a failure of the entire FD while riding and the R&R of the entire FD is much more $ than just the bearing.

[@bocs69]

I am really curious if 1 l of oil is enough for the final drive and for the gearbox, because you don't want to buy an extra bottle just for 0,03 l . The final drive: 0,23 l, the gearbox is 0,8 l officially but probably depend on how much stays in. And BTW, you don't need to measure the amount in advance. The neck of the filler holes is just the right height. So not possible to overfill.

[@gmcjetpilot]

At 6:22 through 6:30 you say fill to bottom of threads and a little bit more. To the "bottom of threads" is WAY too much. There is a machined step below the threads that is a secondary indication, but the only way to do this is VOLUME. A graduated measuring cup (typically plastic inverted cone) is more precise than the bottle the oil comes in. A tad over is OK, but in the Final Drive you can blow seals or vent oil. Other wise it just causes more drag (loss of HP to rear wheel) and foaming.

[@jefferyelston2938]

Great video ! Help a lot. Thanks.

[@aminaminovicz9816]

Thanks,very good video!!

[@jamesellis2784]

Was that thread or thrad come on Eastern front general maintenance .

[@milankanazir5852]

on the top of differencial body is a plastic cover with small holle and O ring, its liking oil from that holle, whay, i chendzed O ring its enaf ? thanks

[@nuppy.9117]

I can see this is an old video, but I have read that BMW now recommend 180 ml for these bikes due to a pressure problem have you heard of this?

[@kirksmotorrad]

use 180ml

[@nuppy.9117]

@@kirksmotorrad thanks

[@rojobandito318]

Should always remove fill plug before drain plug

[@rojobandito318]

@Dr James Crabapple. nah. It's because if you remove the drain plug and the fill plug is stuck then you end up with incapacitated motorcycle

[@jahan451]

Thanks a lot for sharing this video😊 How often should we change the oil?

[@inspectorchicken]

You have a short inspection interval at 10k kms (engine oil and filter) and a long interval at 20k kms (engine oil, filter, final drive & transmission oil, air filter) among other things. And there is also stuff every 40k kms like fuel filter or belt drives. Just look up "BMW R1100 Maintenance Schedule" and you'll find official BMW inspection papers with the to dos. Ride safe!

[@stfm.6283]

Hi, can somebody Tell me, if the gearplug for the oil change 0,8l is the left or right side of the r1100rt if i sit on Top. Do i need to take some plastic cover away to get to the plug? Thank you. I did Not find a video for that RT.

[@ضياءالعراقي-ط5ش]

Kann mein Bruder uns die in der Erklärung verwendete Ölsorte geben, das Kardanöl und das Care Box-Öl? Beachten Sie, dass er ein BMW Rs 1100 Motorrad hat. Ich möchte das Xelöl, das Kardanöl oder das Getriebeöl ersetzen.

[@joseluisfernandez102]

Thanks, very interesting !!!

80w90????

[@GetLifeScribe]

What size crush washer do you use and can I purchase this at a home depot or similar hardware store?

[@decocatani]

LifeScribe 14mm and 18mm. The only place where crush washers are 16mm is around the engine oil drain plug. So, you'll always need to have three different sizes of crush washers available for your beemer maintenance: 14, 16 and 18mm. The torque on all these plugs is 23Nm, except for engine drain plug, which is 32Nm.

[@AB-hx9hs]

Not sure why you recommend Synthetic gear oil for this bike. Others are saying that is bad advice and that regular gear oil should be used.

[@Ceviche0889]

I have a r1150rt I want to know if it's the same procedure / ml / oil?

[@kirksmotorrad]

It is the same procedure. Check the manual for the amount to be sure.

[@AB-hx9hs]

Kirk: I really need your help. I drained and changed the Gear Oil with Synthetic Lucas Hypoid Oil. All was well till tonight when I noticed a leak, I thought I didn't tighten the drain plug, so I did tighten it some more. I was away from home so I stopped at a store and bought some more Synthetic fluid and filled it up. It is still leaking from what looks to be the front of the brake caliber. All was fine till I changed the Gear Oil then I have this crazy leak. Is this a case where people say using synthetic oil causes leaks ?? While I enjoyed this bike, I really HATE it. It is nothing but continuous problems. Mine has less than 50K miles and should not have these issues. HELP please. This is my sole mode of transport and now I can't go anywhere since the stupid thing is leaking out all the gear oil, it is allover the rear tire/wheel and brake calibers.

[@kirksmotorrad]

If you have a leak due to Synthetic, it would manifest as a slow leak. You either forgot to put a new washer in, have a pending FD failure with a leaking ring seal, a pinion seal leak, a output shaft seal leak or a crack in the FD case. In that order. Go back and check your work. Syn vs standard is totally up to you. I use synthetic in the FD and Trans and have yet to have a failure at 100k. Even if it failed today I still would not use conventional in the trans or FD going forward. You do what you want in yours. I only recommend what I use and that is synthetic in those locations. If you are sure the washer is there, remove the tire and inspect the FD seal. If that is OK, pull the boot back between the swing arm and the FD and check for where the oil is coming from. Above all, dont panic. They are only parts and they can be replaced. Kirk PS. This is not one of my videos.

[@AB-hx9hs]

Yes I just realized I posted my question to the wrong video, this was meant for the K1200LT video. The drain plug is NOT leaking, I used the same washer as I did not have a new one. It looks to me that it is leaking from the brake rotor and it is gear Oil. Is this normal at 50K miles ???

[@kirksmotorrad]

Normal? No. Sadly common though. You have a failing FD. Give Ron Williams a call and he can repair it for you. He may also have a spare. [phone]

[@AB-hx9hs]

I called Ron Williams twice and left 2 voice mails. Does he ever answers his phone ? Thanks.

[@kirksmotorrad]

I will try today and get back to you. Send me an email at [e-mail]

[@gwoo4207]

Thanks

[@RichardT2112]

Never understood why we need to measure the oil if it has just come to the bottom of the thread (anything more will not really fit) ...

[@kirksmotorrad]

I use a measure so it does not come out of the hole at all and make a mess.

[@RichardT2112]

illinoisBMWriders ok that makes sense. I was worried that I was overfilling as I never measured volume. Thanks for the reply!!

[@lottierose8668]

hasnt got a clue

[@JamesRoe70]

Sorry I know this has nothing to do with your oil change but I found myself laugh at your camera.... It makes a lot of noise when its adjusting...

[@neilblack6356]

What’s that fucking noise lol

[@cherrabimohammed7342]

you have to open the upper screw first, then open the lower screw to leaver the oil go out the transmission.... can you please read BMW user guide before do a video !!!!