Brake Line and Proportioning Valve Install Tips F100

[@johnnymula2305]

I like this format of video much better than in the past. This was done much more professional without all the attempt at funny little skits.

[@angeloc3842]

Good episode. Clean information, filmed well and less jokes, fluff and banter 👍🏼

[@tristonstone5397]

Best advice ever by him saying "stay in your neighborhood the tow bill is cheaper" just that right there is worth watching the video 👍

[@donveterano3944]

Thanks for another handy video! Regards from a F100 driver from germany.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Thanks for watching! Man there can't be many of those over there!

[@the_fomoco_man5160]

Very nice job as always! The only downside to the adjustable proportioning valve on the street is you no longer have the brake pressure warning light to notify you of a failure. Just pointing it out to those who are not aware. PS. The only reason you beat me putting in the brake lines is you had The Super Duty Industrial Strength "Cam" helping you. ALL HALE CAM!!!!!

[@AutoRestoMod]

Great point! He is a mighty, big help.

[@48Marlon]

That’s a nice looking Ole Truck.

[@markhawkins6276]

I wish you would do a video on how to adjust that proportioning valve, or what to look for when adjusting it.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Great suggestion! Ours is good without adjustment, but we can do a video on that.

[@oemergyo]

Dude, sweet! I live right next to ocala! Thanks for the recommendation.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Any time!

[@jamesford2942]

When doing a conversion to disc in the front I like to use an original type of combination valve for this off of a newer disc brake truck instead of the adjustable proportioning valve. The combination valve has a metering block in the front lines to allow the rear brakes to engage first overcoming the springs in the drum brake. It then engages the front brakes and causes all four to do the stopping. Without it in low pressure braking the front brakes do all the stopping and the rears never engage. After the brakes all apply there is a proportioning valve in the rear line because of the self energizing affect that drum brakes have and disc don't. This is to keep the rear brakes from locking up before the front brakes. There is also a residual valve in the rear line to keep about 10 pounds of pressure in the rear to keep the wheel cylinder cups expanded and not let air get into the system through the wheel cylinders. The last job of the combination valve is only for safety in the case of a loss of any part of the system. It is the shuttle valve that will slide and close off the side of the system that failed so that you will still have some brakes and not lose all the fluid. This also has a switch on it that will turn on the brake failure warning light. So in conclusion just installing an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line is not the best or safest method to keep the rear brakes from locking up. On another note I use a turret style flare tool that is much faster and more precise than the manual clamp type. I also use a pair of tube bending pliers to get nice tight bends close to the nut on the end of the line. I also use copper/nickel line as it has superior corrosion resistance and it can be hand formed easily without kinking. I have found that S.U.R.&R. Line kits work well with superior line quality. They also have a selection of flare nuts that fit those odd size master cylinder ports.

[@AutoRestoMod]

I agree with all of your assessment (and not just because we are related--cuz) We have a correct valve for the truck. But it will have to wait. The old Ford had some work that needed to be done and I was just not going to have another vehicle down for the count while I custom bent lines for it. We will do a proper prop valve in the future.

[@Paulie1232]

Good information, thanks again

[@AutoRestoMod]

Always welcome

[@mikecrolick4377]

Which way do you turn valve to apply psi for rear brakes

[@4thGloryMonday]

i always learn something from this channel so its time for me to share. i always soak down brake lines with wd40 and take a punch and punch the flats on opposite sides of the flare nut and they always come loose for me

[@markbergthold6181]

I had 2 after market proportioning valves fail while driving. Thankfully I was able to stop w/o a collision. I’ve now installed a heavy duty truck valve on my ‘70 F250. Won’t know if that solved the issue until I finish the total re-wire.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Interesting idea!

[@harrisonbrown8214]

At some point can you show the process for tuning the prop valve?

[@AutoRestoMod]

We will after this week. Our rear brakes cylinders are leaking and we will be doing the prop valve and discussing that in the episode.

[@chrisluper3020]

Awesome video again. Can the proportioning valve as displayed on the video around 10:30 ever be placed sideways so that the knob would be in the 3 o’clock position versus the currently viewed 12 o’clock?

[@AutoRestoMod]

Yes.

[@terryrobinette9379]

I am about to swap my 1969 front brakes to 1976 disc. my question is the MC for the 76 the exit ports are on the right side but the one you had is on the left side. I like the left side exit, do you have a part number for the MC you used. The 77 F100 from NPD shows the exit on the right side. Also did you have any issues with the MC rod to the booster. Loved the videos.

[@frekkledipped]

Is there somewhere that shows how to install a proportioning valve. Ive never heard of one I would like to see what goes where how do you know which set of brakes goes in what hole etc.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Funny.

[@abfavero]

I bought that style of flare kit and it was absolutely worthless. I then bought a Titan flare tool from the parts store and it actually made straight, nice flares

[@AutoRestoMod]

Not my experience.

[@albertrodriguez4190]

Ok I'm on board

[@AutoRestoMod]

Glad you are here!

[@RallyRogue]

can you use this valve with factory front discs and rear drums or do i have to have the original one with the brake warning thing.

[@markwoten6679]

I installed the type of wheel cylinder bleeder valves that doesn’t let air back into the system. They are nice. How do I know if my proportioning is working correctly that is located on the front wheels cross member?

[@AutoRestoMod]

If the rear breaks lock up under hard breaking then your proportioning valve is working correctly.

[@ronbelldvm]

great info. Thanks!

[@AutoRestoMod]

Glad it was helpful!

[@jimmywilson1388]

I’ve got a question for ya. I replaced my back brakes on my 72 the other day. I replaced all the hardware, wheel cylinder, and the shoes. I even went as far as cleaning the brake drum and painting them…😂 But anyway when I had the wheel cylinder off I let the line gravity bleed for a little while before I replaced the wheel cylinder and kept a close eye on the master cylinder to make sure it didn’t run out of fluid. Basically I was doing a fluid change on that particular line because it had some stuff that didn’t look great in the line. But anyway we got it back together and pumped the brakes and cracked the bleeder valve and didn’t get any pressure, we tried a few more times and still no pressure. But I know for a fact it has free passage from front to back but it won’t build pressure… Thanks in advance.

[@RealWorldGarage]

On those rounded off line nuts, if I am going to replace the line anyway. I will cut them off flush with the nut and use an external bolt/nut extractor that I can put a ratchet on. The tighten first to loosen, I have several things I use that on, it works. I don’t know why, And don’t care, just glad it does.

[@israelfranco5332]

James, I am doing a drum to disc conversion just like the one you just did. My truck is a 69 F100 but the parts are from a 76 F100. Both trucks have a manual steering box. Do I have to replace the pitman arm on my 69 to work with the 76 suspension? Great Show, love your videos.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Yes. The '76 uses the 1972 and later tie rod arms and pitman arm. The tapper on the tie rods is bigger on the later trucks.

[@tyclute1454]

So just finished install. NO pressure to back brakes at all. checked pro valve and seems to have fluid thru all lines. Even removed it and checked it with low air. Im lost. Any ideas?

[@AutoRestoMod]

I'd look to the fittings. Sometimes they will leak air and not show fluid.

[@matthillmann6817]

So I have a 69 f100 2wd and just did the 73-79 disc swap I'm about to order a master and booster but I also need all new brake lines there are complete kits online but which should I order? Brake lines for a 73 and up? Or for a 69?

[@AutoRestoMod]

Man, that is a hard one to knw how to answer. We ordered two different kits...neither did the job. We ended up bending some of the stuff ourselves.

[@daltybell]

Thank you!! Y'all are good teachers! Would a 90 degree fitting make it an easier fit off of the prop valve?

[@AutoRestoMod]

It might. We tried to work with the stuff we had, just like you might in the garage. No extra fittings etc.

[@scottstrangman7309]

How did you bend the line to the proportion valve? Which tool did you use? P.s. great video, truck's looking good. Ty. Scott

[@AutoRestoMod]

OEM tools has one that looks pretty good for that job part number 25440. Ours is so old it is no longer available.

[@j.anthony3571]

My proportioning valve is leaking at the base of the brass fitting. What do you do about that? Thanks

[@AutoRestoMod]

I'd try and find a replacement

[@bayareakat66]

I have a 66 Ford Thunderbird. It has a factory proportioning valve. I replaced all the lines, master, cylinder, & brake booster. Now it's time to bleed the system. My question is since it has a proportioning valve(looks to be sealed non adjusting & has a spring/plunger design internally)can I bleed the brakes without the p-valve closing up fluid delivery? I've seen videos where p-valves have a safety pin that will block off any lines that has a fluid leak rendering fluid going to that caliper or drum. If that happens I wont be able to bleed the system. I can not find any videos that clarify if this particular proportioning valve will allow a standard brake bleed without ceasing fluid flow. Please help! Thanks!

[@AutoRestoMod]

It will bleed just fine. No worries.

[@chadgage2524]

What size wheels and tires are on this truck? And did you use a wheel spacer on rear wheels?

[@AutoRestoMod]

The wheels are a 5 on 4.5 15 the fronts are a 225/70R 15 and the rears are 235/70R 15;so someone added spacers on both front and rear so they could use the 5 on 4.5 wheels. The rears are a deeper offset than the fronts too. I'll be trading them out for a set of Ford 1995 F2TZ1015B Chrome wheels and 225/70R15's on all four corners so I can rotate the tires.

[@trkinwithmikey]

I have a totally off subject question when you open the hood down low on the firewall it's like where the floor pan meets the firewall the two pieces of metal there's a lip and on mine there's like a layer of foam or something on it. What is that and where do I get it

[@AutoRestoMod]

send me a picture: [e-mail]

[@mickeyreed2056]

I watched your video where you found 1987 suspension and disc brake setup and replaced the front drum brakes. I have a 1972 Ford F-100 with same setup. What proportioning valve do you recommend that I purchase.

[@AutoRestoMod]

I recommend the stock style fore the '77-79. That said you MAY have to bend custom lines.

[@kyleboeckman8153]

What brake master cylinder did you guys use?

[@AutoRestoMod]

Front disc for a 1977 F100 with disc brakes.

[@overbuiltautomotive1299]

i got to order tmyer zero deck hight 400m el pistons so it will run like it needs to fer my 1977 f350 ill post a video on that build its a roll back of sorts 4x4 .welding nuts on is the nicest thing about working on my ole toyota supra n but its got it own quirks...i hope i get on it soon darn things been seting to long

[@AutoRestoMod]

Let us know!

[@roykrossin8343]

Someone was getting upset....lol nice editing --"

[@AutoRestoMod]

I was. This one fought us from the get go. From the install to the edit. There is a certain sanctification in beating a machine at it's own game.

[@westfurman8638]

I destroyed the plastic clips for the break lines on my ‘77/‘68 Frankenstein f100. Anyone know where I could get more clips? The clips are from the 77 part of the truck but they appear to be the exact same as the ones in this video

[@AutoRestoMod]

Far as I know, those are salvage yard parts only.

[@westfurman8638]

Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media ok thank you

[@mickeyreed2056]

Below comment should read found 1977 - 1979 suspension and disc brake setup ( my bad ).

[@trkinwithmikey]

I guess that's one way not to deal with the spaghetti

[@r.weaver3769]

Take plastic clip off, 3D print new ones, sell on Ebay

[@AutoRestoMod]

We've been seriously considering that kind of thing. But the clip is a vinyl plastic. Not sure if they have that kind of plastic out yet for 3D.

[@kellismith4329]

J

[@AutoRestoMod]

F

[@MontanaMetalWorkssigns]

That’s the most stupid explanation of why yu did all that. No explanation of why the adjustable proportional valve. Why change all the lines?

[@AutoRestoMod]

Well I reckon we're just stupid then.