How to Dart a Bust of a Wedding Gown, Bridal Gown Sewing, Bust Gaping

[@michellecothrun1048]

This video saved the day!! I occasionally do hems and minor alterations as a side gig. I had two weekends to work on altering a gown to help out a friend whose prior arrangements fell through. I thought I had to reduce the bust curve, but I did this alteration instead. It's an off the shoulder dress with a sweetheart neckline. There is a sheer lace part with scalloped edging that extends above the satin bustline that goes almost straight across in line with the sleeves. The satin fabric underneath the bust was puckering and caving in slightly. I thought the bust curve needed to be reduced. First I added bust pads, which gave the bodice much needed support. The apex of the bust was fine. The bride kept pulling the dress up saying she didn't want to feel exposed. I explained that pulling everything up meant completely reworking the dress. After watching this video, I realized that the bodice was standing a bit proud and needed to curve in to lay against her skin. That scalloped lace edging was a bit stretched. The hand stitching did the trick and made the dress fit perfectly! I have learned SO much from your videos. Your expertise is invaluable! Thank you for sharing and not keeping it to yourself.

[@jaimedl1697]

Awesome! Learned something new! Fixed a prom dress for my friend's daughter! Thank you!

[@Cindyriggs7]

Wow!!!! Thank you soooo such for the wonderful and helpfull solution and explanation!!!! God bless you!!!!

[@jbsanantoniofan]

This video came in great need for me. I got my dress altered and the person who did my alterations didnt address the gap even after pointing it out. So afterwards I looked around and it felt good being educated on what my dress needed.

[@marieacuna2207]

I've never sewn before on wedding gown however it seems that ladies have faith in me to try to alter. Thanks for sharing this tutorial great job on this it gives me much encouragement! 🤗👰

[@razeltan123]

I'm one bust through your second method and it's looking good already! And it saved my wedding dress. It was too opened in the chest area like yours. I sitched around the bust following your video. Magic happened! Thank you!!!

[@rebeccalittle149]

Thank you for sharing!! I'm working on a very gappy dress and put darts in, but didn't think of slightly gathering the cup at the cleavage. That's exactly what it needs!

[@iheartbridalcouture5989]

I laughed when you said you do it with the bride in the dress. Best way to do it for me. Lol "aisle ready" love that!!

[@angiedavey1195]

I love your videos, your voice is always calm ☺ with a detailed commentary. Thank you

[@julesrobertsyoursocialpa4364]

Hi there! Love your channel! I'm a bridal specialist in the UK, (Alterations For Occasions) can I offer some extra insight into this alteration please? Taking off the lace applique and sequins before installing the dart is really crucial and doesn't take that much longer for a really superior finish. And you won't break your needles on the beads/sequins! I would not be happy producing a visible dart like that no matter what their budget! Its well worth the time and effort. And of course I would have pinned the darts or if not possible, measure the slack first. Hope this helps someone! :-)

[@BridalSewing]

We do it that way in many other videos. With this vid, I round all those out by showing this shortcut for a lower budget bride. It doesn't matter if doing it the "right" way only takes another hour or so. If they absolutely don't have the money, then they don't have it. I have also explained many times that these questions about quality vs investment boils down to the studio's policy. Some studios allow for emergency/lower budget shortcuts and some don't. You are writing about your personal opinion & your shop's view of everything. In my studio, It doesn't matter if I am happy with the result or not. I work at the bride's direction. Many shops do, and this alteration fills that void. If you had watched my other videos, you would see that it is important to me to show a range of quality. I have also already addressed this in the description paragraph. This video is not supposed to show the full quality alteration.

[@julesrobertsyoursocialpa4364]

@@BridalSewing Ahh I see, i hadn't read the description box information, sorry! I will bear in mind to offer if needed but I find most brides ok with my charges, maybe I don't charge enough! ;-) I have to be happy with the result though but I understand what you are saying, you are only doing what they ask for. Thank you for the explanation :-)

[@BridalSewing]

Yes, there's not really a wrong or right concerning this quality policy. There are advantages to both. It would be lovely to only turn out perfect work, and that's a very common policy in the metro areas. Your name & reputation are tied to your work, after all. But many seamsters in the fly over states or in low income areas like to fill that gap and allow even low budget brides some option. That is the policy of my studio. There are some low income areas around me & many of my suscribers. To me, it would break my heart to turn them away, but I can't sew for charity either. So cheap has to be fast and "good enough." It is a difficult, sad dilemma for many seamsters. Because it is such a common issue, I like to show a spectrum of quality. You can find the perfect, expensive way all over the internet, but it's hard to find shortcuts sometimes.

[@julesrobertsyoursocialpa4364]

@@BridalSewing Yes this is very true. Some great points, thank you. I think many brides don't take into account the cost of alterations enough unfortunately but yes we have to cover our time. Your channel is so helpful to myself and I have shared it with a group of local seamsters in my area as we have a friendly Facebook group. Best regards, Jules.

[@danjohnson6870]

I also would not leave visible no matter the budget. I’ll lose money before doing work that isn’t close to perfect

[@emanalhabal8787]

Perfect...I see this video many times..every time I need a tip I go to your Chanel🌸🌸

[@archangelsaphalon8215]

thanks again! this is what I will be doing to my daughter bridal dress, God bless

[@Sylvia-Storm]

Good job as always.

[@kimgivens9156]

Thank you... I am doing this to my wedding dress and your video has helped me so much!!!

[@lindagm9332]

You always do a great job demonstrating unique alterations like adding the dart in the bust. Question: what if the gown has princess seams, a deep v neck in the front, lace sleeves, and the bride's dress do not fit her across the upper bust as if she has narrow shoulders. I can pin out the fullness in the princess seams into the armscye (armhole) around the full bust area but dress forms loose vertical lines (.5" total) across the upper chest right above the princess seam. Thanks. Hope this will help others too.

[@BridalSewing]

Thanks! For your question, can you email me & include pics? I want to make sure that I know what you are talking about. Email on my website. Contact me first through there and then after I reply, you can send pics.

[@lindagm9332]

@@BridalSewing Thank you for your quick response. I will just take it in the armhole seams at the sides. If time permits, I will still send pics so others can learn.

[@analeon8342]

Thanks so much for your tutorials! I love watching them! 🙂

[@ahmedlulaa4889]

I want to thank you from my deep heart ♥️ for u helpful videos

[@AyNoumi]

This is so helpful tutorial😍 it’s so nice learning alteration with beautiful gowns 😍thank you for sharing the video.

[@lillianburton7308]

I enjoy watching your videos. You mentioned retreats. What is your location and tell more about your retreats.

[@BridalSewing]

Hello, Lillian! Thank you for your interest. : ) Hop over to my website, www.bridalsewingtechniques.com and contact me through there. I can email you an attachment with the info all about it . :)

[@sueiverson258]

Have you ever run into a situation with a strapless backless dress where the front sticks away from the body because the dress is too small or too long waisted or both and the customer insists all it needs is to be taken in like the one on this video did? Or the situation where cups actually push the gown away from the body? I love that you are teaching these techniques- the more of them we all have in our arsenals the better off we are!

[@BridalSewing]

Oh, yes, for sure. Our job is easier when we adjust their expectations and explain how the gown was engineered/designed to fit. Even then, some brides have their way stuck in their head and they don't want to listen. It is their dress, so it's ultimately up to them.

[@sueiverson258]

@@BridalSewingtrue- but I have actually refused to do some because I knew I could never make them happy in the end. I want only happy faces walking out the door!

[@BridalSewing]

Yes, best to filter at the beginnning of they have a bad attitude!

[@gailsabrat]

This is an awesome video. Most of them are that you do but I have one little question. If they only need maybe a quarter of an inch brought in can you just do that running stitch and get it to cup in and not do the dart?

[@BridalSewing]

The gather or contour stitch along the top edge of the bodice to turn it in a little closer? Absolutely.

[@desmondomoodua6807]

Pls the Stitches u did by hand is it a blind stitch or regular stitch

[@taramyers5860]

Thanks for this! I am sewing my daughters grad dress - and purchase a bustier for the dress for her to wear. The cups are a little large and I would like to take them in. Do you have a tutorial for this that I could follow? Thanks for your videos!

[@chelseavaughn2758]

Thanks for sharing! I have a bridesmaid dress that was cut wrong. It only needs a dart on the one side, the other fits flush. 🤷🏻‍♀️ The bust of the dress has lace and beads. This video should help me.

[@BridalSewing]

Thanks for watching. If you want to do this the right way, also watch my video about reducing the bust angle. The lace should actually be dealt with that way. This video is a simplified alteration if you don't have the skill set or the time to do it extensively. Good luck & thanks for watching! :)

[@sheilacheatwood5894]

On a one shoulder prom dress do you dart both sides? The side that doesnt have a strap needs a dart however the side with a strap she doesnt need a dart, it looks perfect. Will it look okay to dart one side only??

[@BridalSewing]

Yes, only dart as needed even if only one side.

[@sheilacheatwood5894]

@@BridalSewing thats what i thought. Thank you so much!!!

[@life8801]

I have also loosened the lace layer and darted the satin layer and then laid the lace layer back over the dart. Usually hides the dart nicely. However, this requires separating the side seam a few inches.

[@BridalSewing]

That's actually the right way of doing it. This is the "wrong" way and saves money, but it was super clear for demonstration purposes. Also, many seamsters like to see short cut options for their budget brides. This is further addressed in the video description. Thanks for watching & commenting!! :)

[@life8801]

Bridal Sewing Techniques so glad I found you.

[@life8801]

Bridal Sewing Techniques By the way, your technique for the sweetheart bodice that flips out is brilliant. Have used this on several dresses and the brides were overjoyed. I tell them I have a magic trick! 😜 Thank you.

[@valariegailniessnermissval8329]

What make is your steam iron? Can you recommend one that is nice and not like a ‘regular Rowena iron”. Love your videos, I have my own business “Reap What You Sew Alterations”....just started opening up and venturing out into bridal gowns, etc. Your videos have helped me and I am more confident now...I’ve been sewing for 30 years now....thank you again

[@BridalSewing]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5monnibiJ6NrNk & congrats! :)

[@ninapostelnicu3732]

I have to do this to a wedding dress but my dress has tool and sleeves. How can I do this?

[@BridalSewing]

Sewing questions are answered in my insta DMs or my Discord

[@theresawheeler5283]

I noticed you did a simple dart through all the outer layers creating a dart line in the outside lace. When would you do the same dart but separate the outer lace cutting around the lace pattern so you only make the dart in the layers under the lace and then afterwards reposition the lace, overlaying the lace flaps and hand stitching it back down?

[@BridalSewing]

Almost always, I should do it that way. (The correct way) this video is showing a very inexpensive way of doing it. I mention this/ explain this in the video description. This video shows the work very clearly for those learning & it's also an example I couldn't pass up because of the bride's sternum being concave. Almost every bride would have me dart the bodice and then seamlessly contour the lace back. I have another video that shows taking down the bust on a lace gown, "the right way." As bridal seamsters, we come across all kinds of budgets and fitting situations, so I think it's better of me to show a wide spectrum of methods.

[@theresamahaffey540]

Theresa Wheeler Thank you. That is what I thought.

[@BridalSewing]

No prob. Anytime you want me to clarify something, just ask. I'm happy to help. ❤

[@hollygustafson8046]

How did you decide how much to shorten the boning?

[@BridalSewing]

I usually just flex it up in the new shape and gauge the excess. You're better going a smidge too short than too long.

[@hollygustafson8046]

Bridal Sewing Techniques thank you so much for getting back to me so quickly! Your videos are great!

[@BridalSewing]

Thank you for watching! Please share about me on social media. It helps so much! ❤✂️🧵❤

[@sherilynbadcock7840]

How do you make the back of a gown fit flush at the back when you're dress has no embellishments, and the fabric is stretch Jersey

[@BridalSewing]

You'll have to DM me on insta with pics. This isn't really a comments section kind of thing.

[@Alishaspieces]

Thank you

[@siljemchugh7986]

How do you determine taking it in in the princesse seam or to make a dart?

[@BridalSewing]

Silje McHugh you can pinch both ways on the dress on the bride and see which one is the better remedy. Usually, darts keep a similar cup size, but tip back for modesty, and doing a small bust adjustment actually reduces the cup size.

[@3whitehens]

For the life of me I cannot find the video where you show how to do darts the "proper" way. I haven't gotten through all of your backlog of videos yet (though I'm working on it...watching your channel is my treat for my downtime and breaks ) and a search for darts seems to just bring up this one. I have a dress coming up that needs a dart and needs it the "proper " way, can you post a link to your video which shows that for me? I promised I did look and just can't find. thanks soo much.

[@BridalSewing]

I think I actually haven't posted that yet. But, the vid about reducing the bust angle has applicable techniques. I peel the lace away, do my work, & recover & press. That should help coupled with this vid for now. I'll promise, I'll do a "proper" dart vid someday! Lol 😂

[@tonyamillard4639]

Thank you!

[@threads77]

How do you close up those very first stitches you removed? Do you flip the dress inside out or do you hand sew that area along the top edge?

[@BridalSewing]

Vicki Richards I usually sew the line from the inside. And then, often, when replacing the hang loops, I stitch in the ditch for those and that adds additional stabilization to the layers. Of course, the most thorough way would be: Sew it along the top on the inside. Flip. Hand sew along top lining edge to prevent roll. Slip hang loops into lining side seam. Hand sew those in, making sure to take a small loop or two all the way through for stabilization of the layers. As you know, there are varying degrees of quality, and the needs vary also. So, I usually try to balance the bride's budget with how thoroughly things are done, making sure everything still looks neat in the end and functions properly.

[@threads77]

Thank you so much. Your videos are very helpful and truly generous. You're a blessing.

[@BridalSewing]

Vicki Richards thank you, sweetie!! 😍

[@harshidesilva8650]

Love it

[@kathybasham6965]

How would you do this on a gown that has tiny tulle rousing? Could you take it out of the front part of the seam?

[@BridalSewing]

Did you mean rouching? It is a very deep alteration. You have to open the top edge of the bust along the front/sides and set the rouching free, do the alteration, then re-rouche (re-rouch?? Regroup?? Lol) baste back to the shell fabric's seam allowance, then sew the edge back together. Alternatively, if you have a budget bride like this one was, you can often just dart through the tulle and shell fabric stacked together, and the rouching helps hide it. Sometimes works, but not always. :)

[@kathybasham6965]

Oh , ok I see now , then manipulate the ruching to fit the new shape of the underneath layer! Thanks you’re a great help!

[@BridalSewing]

You got it! 👍 no problem:)

[@no.48jj65]

Thank you,

[@dreabartley1314]

How would I alter a horizontal bust dart on a dress that is too big for a lady? I need to move it higher to fit her cup but I'm not sure how to. Her bust is smaller than the dress. This is not a wedding dress. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you.

[@BridalSewing]

Hi! Sorry, but that is a complete project that is entirely different from this one. It would have to be a video of its own, and is definitely more than I could teach in the comments section. Also, I have footage for a queue of vids that extends months out. So, I won't be able to quickly produce and upload a video addressing this. Sorry & good luck! :)

[@dreabartley1314]

Ok thank you.

[@susanoldham9504]

May I offer another tip ? Sometimes it's a good idea to have the sewing machine needle in the downwards position in order for it to not snag the fabric whilst moving it around 😊

[@BridalSewing]

I'm trying to picture what you're saying... Do you mean how you leave the needle down when you pivot a turn? Like how you turn a corner? ( & Of course!! Tips are always awesome!!)

[@theresawheeler5283]

Will a dart also fix the gapping in the side of a sweetheart bodice? I have a bride that is very busty but the bodice kind of sticks out at the side of the breast.

[@BridalSewing]

Absolutely. Thst's what it is primarily used for. Crazy! I just put in a dart about 30 mins ago for that very reason. The bodice was tight enough, but the bust had wings! Lol

[@marlisilvana3310]

Oi amo seus vídeos. Sou brasileira e não entendo a língua, porém amo tudo que vejo.obrigada

[@BridalSewing]

Marli Silvana Obrigado por assistir! (Você não ama o Google translate?) É uma coisa bonita que a linguagem não é uma barreira para aprender a trabalhar com as mãos. Eu tento deixar meus vídeos muito claros visualmente para que meus amigos em todo o mundo possam aprender. Obrigado pela sua gentileza!

[@Colorado106]

How can you make sure both sides are gathered the same?

[@BridalSewing]

Benene Lane measure the distance from the center V to the top of the princess seam/bust seam. Also, sometimes you don't want them the same if she is fuller on one side, so you also need to get her in the gown & "eyeball" it.

[@julesrobertsyoursocialpa4364]

Pin on bride first if possible, if not then pinch and measure.

[@pamelaoverstreet28]

AMAZING

[@emanalhabal8787]

Thank you alot for this tips ..the quastion is..cant we use an elastic with silicon insted of running and gathering stich?

[@BridalSewing]

Yes, some people use that. :)

[@bindy90]

Hi What do you mean by this? Please clarify thanku!

[@BridalSewing]

Some people gather the edge of the bodice in a little bit with a grippy elastic instead of gathering with thread.

[@alexanderr3020]

You are amazing

[@BridalSewing]

Oh, staaahp. Lol Thanks for watching.

[@diannabowen3868]

Did I miss something or did you really not lap the lace over the dart to hide it?

[@BridalSewing]

I think you missed reading the video description

[@diannabowen3868]

@@BridalSewing You're right...I DID and thank you!!

[@BridalSewing]

@@diannabowen3868 we almost always cover our tracks with lace, but this is a very visible example. Also, the lace overlays sometimes mystify things for beginners. Baby steps are good. You'll find reading the video description is almost always helpful with my videos. Most of the time, when someone fusses at me, they have skipped it. 😂

[@diannabowen3868]

@@BridalSewing I sincerely apologize and will always read the description from now on!

[@BridalSewing]

Oh, you're fine! ;) Enjoy!

[@tarawhite6951]

Im working on a dress for a friend whose dress needs darts as you've described but i'm not sure how to pin them since there are bones at each princess seam and cups sewn in.....do I need to remove them ? Thank you

[@BridalSewing]

tara white pinch to get a general idea. Move what you need to. Baste the darts. Try on. Adjust. Sew permanently. :)

[@tarawhite6951]

thanks very much

[@angelarutherford1840]

💜

[@terrimartin3034]

I am wondering how large this dart can be before the top curved edge of strapless sweetheart is no longer visually pleasing. I understand this is cup volume dependent. I have made these curved darts with one inch pinch, ( half inch on the double). I would like to go larger, say.... 1 1/2 inches, but then I see the dreaded diagonal pull under the bust. Ugh.

[@BridalSewing]

Im sure there's some computational way of figuring this up, but I basically just give it a whirl and back off when it is too much. It does seem that the larger the dart, the taper grows exponentially, doesn't it?

[@elidaceno3025]

It took so long to do it,

[@BridalSewing]

Lol, yes bridal alterations are time consuming! :)

[@annemckenzie7382]

I would love to do a retreat, maybe when the world gets back on track 🤔

[@BridalSewing]

We have still been hosting. Once you feel safe to travel, we are good to go. My area hasn't been effected too badly, so the community and businesses are still welcoming to travelers. 🤗

[@addyalderete9683]

Be carful to dart the lace. Tu here is a better technique for that part after dart linings.

[@BridalSewing]

Yes. Please read video description and watch this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pV6Tkq1vo86nd9k