budget eBay bump stops - Mini 4WD Trophy Truck Project - Part 14

[@Fukuimold]

Amazing work from a small shop space, incredible

[@davestevens4263]

A shed build , with minimal equipment & tons of skill . I think I’m pretty good till I watch this & I look like a beginner. I’ve built a bad ass yota rock crawler friend & it all works good , butt it’s a beater that functions.

[@davessparetime83]

You changed the radiator from an up and down flow to a cross flow, so your inlet and outlet should have been high and low on the tanks. Also the drain petcock needs to be low on the tank, not mid level.

[@av8shunmeckaneck]

Was about to put in the same response.

[@biker6991]

Hehe more welding after ye sees this comment

[@ParRagon-]

​@@av8shunmeckaneck xD i thought to myself too why He didnt Put the inlet high and the Outlet Low xD

[@craigengelman1369]

yup

[@timothymilam732]

I believe you'll be better off if you run a bar from bump stop to bump stop across the top. That'll control them from being pushed out of alignment, and it will help the frame from flexing upward as they bounce around too. Which will help maintain front wheel geometry as well. As far as the shock stiffness, and sitting the bump stops that's going to have to be set when you have everything on it, fuel, water, both passengers possibly a cooler for cold drinks possibly. But definitely fully loaded and sitting at ride height on the ground with tires inflated to 6 to 12 psi I would think be about right with the combined weight of everything and the size of the tires you have on it . Too much air and it's going to be a bouncy rough ride, and won't have a full contact patch on the ground as it should

[@barthanes1]

I think your radiator inlet and outlet need to be repositioned. With the inlet only half way up the tank you will not be using the whole tube sheet to cool. It will make a giant air bubble in the top half of your radiator. Also, with the outlet not being the lowest point the water below the outlet may stagnate and not do much cooling. I think you need the inlet at the top and the outlet at the bottom.

[@cinnamonrollypoly]

"fihisn cvoss bvacing" and "Gus tank" had me rolling, lol. I love how builders write things when they're in a hurry.

[@janeblogs324]

24:44 ah, rod end in bending, welcome back my friend

[@davidowen888]

Woa thought for sure the radiator was gonna pop 😅 great skills award goes to Chris Fabricator Extraordinaire ! Love this build cant wait for testing😊☮️

[@ryangallagher685]

So happy to see your working on this project again I hope you had a good break from it, I can't wait to see it when it's done

[@marklafeverii3696]

Thanks!

[@stachsco]

I think you should redesign coolant system : Fittings on the radiator - liquid's usually flow from fittings to fittings, so you reduce cooling capacity of this radiator by around half . Placement - rocks, dust in the radiator not helping with cooling, hot air and coolant fums not helping with fun . With radiator with presure valve that much lower than engine, you may cook out all coolant from engine before you even notice that .

[@EdwardMurray06]

I saw that homemade iron plug gun happening before it happened 😂

[@fsanchezsmith]

I got nervous when you leaned over that plug with 50psi behind it.

[@michaelcrebbin7328]

Awesome the build is looking good great to see you back on it love the dashboard design still flows with the design 🥰🥰👍👍

[@mrgmc6314]

A turbo k swap and sequential trans would make that new buggy a riot to drive !!!

[@F5Tornado44]

Chris, before bending aluminum, you must always, always, ALWAYS anneal the aluminum. There's a lot of different ways to determine the right temp to heat it to, but this is what I've been taught. Lite your oxy/acetylene torch with only the acy, wave the torch over the area to bend, and cover it with soot. Then turn the oxy on and heat the aluminum until the soot disappears. Let it cool, then go ahead and bend it. It won't crack and your bends will be nice and smooth.

[@LesNewell]

I find the oxy soot technique a bit close to the melting point for comfort. I prefer the bar soap technique. Wipe it over the surface then heat until it turns black. If the black starts burning off you are getting close to the melting point.

[@evanwebber9981]

That's good information to have! I went through A&P school (aviation mechanic) and I don't remember them ever telling us to heat aluminum before bending.

[@LesNewell]

@@evanwebber9981 It does depend on the application. Obviously annealing softens the metal so if you are relying on maximum strength annealing may not be a good idea. If you want to get technical it depends on the ratio of bend radius to thickness. A tight radius on thick material needs annealing to prevent tearing. On the other hand that same radius may well be fine for thin material without annealing. I'm guessing you mainly worked with fairly thin sheet. In that case you probably never really needed to anneal it. Were you given minimum bend radii for different thicknesses?

[@evanwebber9981]

@@LesNewell yeah, we were just making small airfoil and such. It was really more to teach how to measure bend radius and riveting overlaps, stuff like that.

[@F5Tornado44]

@@evanwebber9981 You wouldn't normally anneal aluminum for aircraft because that softens the aluminum. That's why most aircraft panels are riveted and not welded.

[@MoondyneJoe]

Chris a possible tip that might help I watch a lot of fab type of videos and one major thing I have noticed that makes Welding aluminium especially better is to clean it well with something like acetone or brake cleaner or carb cleaner before you weld, getting off any contaminants same thing with steel etc but in that case to a slightly less benifit. Doing great as usual Chris still extremely proud of you! Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺

[@elijahbaker8248]

Hi Chris, I have to point out the fact that the inlet and outlet for the radiator aren't spaced apart far enough. If that's a 3 core radiator, there should be 3 different sections inside and the hose spacing is going to only let it use 2 of them. Might cause problems later. But keep up the great work, I wish I had half the talent you have.

[@teknics]

Put a rubber lip around that shroud, between that shroud and radiator. Otherwise the vibrations will rub your shroud right through the radiator

[@eriklarson9137]

Right? Because you know a LOT better than Chris right? It's all the real world fabricating and welding you have done. Isn't it?

[@teknics]

@@eriklarson9137 yea been building cars for almost 17 years, the specific instance of experience was actually a plastic shroud that rubbed right thru the thin aluminum on the radiator due to a lack of a flange gasket, metal on metal would be worse

[@davidspilman531]

Always glad when you have a new video can’t wait for the next ! I made my own electric fan housing for my street rod ! Yours looked Great

[@carnivorecave]

The bigger the better the projects the more it cost to make these projects...Great work...

[@AzureFan1]

Car projects are always fun to watch. My only wish is to have enough money to do some builds of my own.

[@jacksonkhenglawt9282]

What ever you makes its perfect fit for your truck,,,,you are the best one i ever heard to the world best of best what ever you make.. keep going❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤👍👍👍🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩

[@tinkerne-round4079]

The fans own housing makes for an excellent fan shroud. Your fabricated fan shroud only inhibits free air movement when the fan is not on.

[@jasonlind6790]

sweet!!! ive been waiting for you to finish this project! lets go!

[@ChrisRollins]

Dude, i aspire to fabricate on this level

[@ratherBweldingChris]

Thanks man! Nice job on the super fast trash can

[@cecilpeek7617]

For the radiator you can also add an air scoop if you put a body on it

[@future-matze-35]

Thank you Chris, love your content ❤

[@newmonengineering5052]

Radiator should never see more than 30 lbs...😂...most only have to hold 20 psi...the cap usually says what it's rated at like 15 lbs...😬

[@Ratkill9000]

15-21psi is what most are rated for these days. GM still runs 15psi, everyone else is 16-21.

[@newmonengineering5052]

@@Ratkill9000 I know but him putting 50 psi is ridicules.... 😆 Lol

[@migueldenboer5186]

​@@newmonengineering5052 I mean, this just only confirms it's going to work

[@Paulman50]

I was waiting to see the radiator turn into a football 😂

[@bodyamotor7120]

Hello buddy, I'm from Donbass, I often watch your channel, it's very interesting, everything doesn't bother me, I make a drive chain, I recommend making a drive from grenades, it's reliable

[@nonyabuisness]

Why would you put the radiator in the front? All that hot air in the summer is going to be like a heater.

[@waltcomotorsports3994]

Its pointing down, and i bet he’ll add a firewall of sorts, so the heat probably wont get to him

[@ParRagon-]

Why Not? Better then at the Back where the engine sits. Airflow should BE cooler from the Front too.

[@thomascraig1952]

such a pleasure to watch.

[@mechanicalsuntheoneyouknow]

As usual great video, big fan, but pressure testing a cooling system max pressure is cap relief valve pressure 15-psi or 104 kPA, you are over pressurizing the system during the test.

[@claytonphelps785]

Just thought I'd add maybe try neoprene instead of the chain roller tensioners.. kinda like a dirt bike chain skirt..if you can't get ahold of neoprene I've used a good hardwood like oak or hickory and works good for long chain and totally kills the loud noise that the chain rollers make.

[@kwanelejangase3592]

I love your work 😊❤ these would be great on the South African outdoors

[@reddenley9822]

It's looking SO COOL. Love this buggy. Can't wait to see it ripping.

[@roadboogalabuilds5318]

Coming along awesome, its going to be a ripper!!

[@ephenj]

Dude this is your best build ever. Can not wait to see how well it does.

[@nivek2192]

I'm honestly surprised that you don't have an old lawn tractor as a mini yard jockey

[@kasper.4133]

Missed this project took a break on mine two bc I wanted to build it while watching this 😂

[@terryhayward7905]

1 inch angle iron pieces would extend your bender for lightweight aluminium panels.

[@Billrovid]

When I break aluminum 90* I pulse tig weld (no filler) along the break lines which will get rid of any stress cracking that happens.

[@nickkelless]

Do your thing.. don’t explain to much.. people will love it anyways. I follow for years now and I still like al your work

[@jacksonkhenglawt9282]

Also ,what ever you face like worry things you can solve it easily,also you are a smart n handsome guy.....lov it whatever you made it🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩👍👍👍👍👍

[@RandysRides]

This is the coolest thing. I cannot wait to see it fully skinned and looking like the bigger trophy trucks. Your skills are friggin awesome.

[@davestevens4263]

I’m telling you what , this is the sickest build to date .

[@RandysRides]

@@davestevens4263 Agreed.

[@TwistedEngines]

I would love something that size for my vehicle ❤ wow Clean hits and small space Perfect

[@johnmccanntruth]

You should pressure test with water, NOT air. Air is like a spring, it explodes things. Water will simply gush out a bit. Glad you didn’t get hurt.

[@HulluJanne]

Or submerge in water while testing with low air pressures.

[@itarry4]

Really quite suprised you haven't built yourself a better sheet metal bender. It wouldn't take long to make a stronger, longer more versatile version and let's face it it would be stupidly easy for you. That way you'd have it everytime you needed it and make such things so much easier. Just need to make something that you clamp to your work table when ever you need it. Also a better belt sander and a few other workshop necessities that it's well inside your abilities to build and there loads of videos on KZbin for you to get ideas from. The work you do iis amazing it just seems like your trying to save time or just want to build the things you like but it's causing you problems and time and effecting your work flow etc. It'd make quite a interesting series of videos as well. You showing what tools, equipment a shop needs and how to build the things you might need. Like a video on your pipe cutter, a better pipe bender, the sheet metal be der, belt sander, grinder, the jig you use to hold the pipes in place and I'm sure there's plenty of other things that a shop needs and would help you with your work. I honestly believe it'd really help you to have these things and especially your work flow and consistency of builds.

[@Luckie221]

If your bending aluminum. Rub dove bar soap on it then heat with a torch when the soap is burnt it will bend without breaking. I let it cool before bending as well

[@tinkerne-round4079]

Is the soap supposed to be a temperature indicator, or does it just make the shed smell nice? Jk 🤪 😅

[@plageran]

gotta love crossing things off a list

[@benschlack5814]

I do like those tires 👍👍

[@chopfather2730]

Dang I want one of these!!!!

[@BraxxJuventa]

Good progress made Chris. Well(d) done! 👍😁👍😁

[@MaldonadoMoto]

Yay Chris has posted! ❤

[@robertmccully2792]

Getting really good at fabricating!!

[@64BitMatt]

Looking good Chris!

[@lukeandolino8768]

You only need to test your coolant system at 20psi. Most coolant systems say not to pressure test above 15psi max

[@skylarkeighley2369]

you should totally do a tracked vehicle next. whole new way of setting up steering and driveline

[@lawrenwimberly7311]

15 psi max... the cap is supposed to let go at 15psi

[@1hipcrip771]

Name suggestion...the Busa Buggy...

[@pgalas57]

Hi, I watch every video you produce and have much respect for your skills and creativity. I just saw one of those aluminum mini-boats with the jet ski drive trains and thought I’d enjoy seeing you build one from scratch. You’ve created many Motorsport vehicles how bout a water sport vehicle?

[@benhightowerv]

I was beginning to think there wasn't going to be a video today and, ngl, I was getting bummed out about it. My Sunday is complete now.

[@wyattyoung1191]

I was thinking maybe mount the original two pipes lower on the front bumpstop sleeves and the brace it across to the where the top of the shock mounts. Would be a tad bit lighter and I think it would look better and be plenty strong

[@unogazzy84]

This is a kinda weird suggestion but better safe than sorry. I've come across videos (I'm not talking about the fake ones) online over the years where the shaft of a stool went through the seat and then went up the rear of a person. Does your stool have a gas spring? If so then mount a peice of steel between the seat and the mounting bracket.

[@prodzektownia]

If you have side tank radiator you need to have in and out at top of one tank and other on the bottom of other tank

[@kinkong1961]

Chris just a thought when you put the third bit of tubing on the front bump stop looking at it and knowing the force that hits them as I have them on my land rover I do think you need to add a fourth bar on the other side as I do think it will bend up still just at a different angle just like mine did on my land rover when I added four pieces it no longer moves but I had to replace all the tubing as it bent it totally out of shape so I just want to stop you the heartache of having to rebuild the front bump stops all the best from john from Rugby UK.

[@JR-kr1lv]

Just hope it holds up to running hard and HOT, if gets HOT, then explodes over Driver and passenger, yeah not good getting burnt from overheating engine coolant. Doesn't take much for 1 to let go at all. Also you talked about using a gas tank ? Why not use a Fuel Cell for safety purposes and adding on very back, can hit ground if stands up right, or if cracked from jumping it and having engine close to it, then can catch on fire, if reversed the front shocks, then you could of set adjusters facing you to adjust if needed and setup on different bar, then would of looked better, also use limit straps on suspension so Doesn't travel farther than you want for safety reasons and doesn't break parts. Your very good at you do, I wish I had your knowledge of machine work, I hoped that this engine is built for much more HP as I'd beef it up halfway leaving room for more. Hopefully you made s set of Blueprints, then can sell and make money just selling prints only. I also like the way you setup these videos to play back to back until done.

[@micflynn1]

Chris, WD40 the wench cables so they don't rust in place. Or best thing is synthetic rope. I don't trust metal cable, it can snap without warning and has cut people in half, synthetic rope will pull a part, way aafer.

[@sjv6598]

Cut people in half? 😂

[@tiredofthetyranny9874]

I definitely want to get a Tig welding setup!!!

[@jcthe2nd]

This thing is gunna be a fu@$en BEAST

[@breakshot7451]

oh kids, in my time we had dampers these days you need a damper for a damper:)))

[@joetri1970]

If you had the arc Droid make some inch long slots along your bends it will allow you to bend stuff alot easier.

[@josealmeida8731]

That tubing on front of the radiator, should you bend it away to gain some space for the radiator

[@tomlee7966]

no need to test the radiator that high as most caps pop around 12-15 psi, check your cap

[@MaNNeRz91]

I think id just used a reducer on the rad lines. Would probably slow the flow of water inside the rad slightly. Not terrible 😂

[@davestevens4263]

This thing is soo sick looking & just a great build. I’m glad your back on it . I wantta buy this thing when your finished. I’m looking forward to more progress on this beast . I’m an artist fabricator & this thing is soo easy on the eyes 👀 & just looks great . For eyeball engineering I’m impressed. But that’s how I build everything.

[@andiprogshop3097]

Like Timothy i think it's better to have a bar from top to top of the bump stops, otherwise you will twist your entire frame internally with heavy impacts

[@This0is0pointless]

Not sure if putting the rad up front is a good idea, just gonna blow hot air on you all the time maybe reverse the fan?

[@imacracker515]

He mentioned this in an older video. I think he plans to have a firewall, which would hopefully redirect that hot air away from passenger and driver.

[@gezimkrasniqi1937]

you are amazing ! WOW

[@Alchemist_2119]

work smarter and harder

[@hillonwheels8838]

I'm worried that the water pump on the engine is not going to be able to pump the water through the system. Motorcycle cycle water pumps to my knowledge don't have good head pressure which could cause overheating issues. My suggestion is to add a Toyota Prius electric water pump since it is 12v and is designed to handle hot water. I researched that style pump for a project I was going to do but never got around to doing it. Great work as always.

[@michaelmain1990]

Did you really mount the pedal controls switch to the torch? Or is it just an on of switch? If you did the pedal control switch, that's genius. And btw all radiators are only designed for 16 psi, at 16 the bleeder pops to relieve pressure it's so you don't detonate anything in the cooling system. It's a miracle you didn't blow up a core with 50psi

[@benmiller5015]

Damnit, now I gotta go back n watch the welding part myself cuz I didn't even notice a switch lol. But I know theres variable torch mounted switches out there. It would make sense that he would have at least one torch setup that way

[@johnseymour5223]

A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't 😁

[@eriklarson9137]

Wow! Did you just make that up? Amazing!

[@lukelikens2057]

I think you should have connected the front bump stops with plate steel and boxed it in it would be strong and not be in the way

[@acurarl9929]

Would looked nice if you put 3rd pipe on front bump stops above the first 2 rather then below. 3rd long bar looks ok ish

[@larryalexander4833]

Thought the exact same thing. Could add a arched peace of tubing on top . Not us tho .

[@travisschulz6342]

Pro tip is to bend into the score marks it won’t need welding that way typically and ALWAYS ALWAYS fill it w water before you pressure test it if you don’t you just have a Bomb bud

[@jayventransportllc]

*YOU SHOULD CONSIDER AN ELECTRIC WATER PUMP* to flow water/coolant from the rear to the front. OEM water pump will not be enough

[@Lithail]

I was wondering if you could tell me the type of tube you were using to mount the bump stops and the diameter. Thanks I watch all your video’s.

[@fainttomcat652]

Maybe do some bump stops for the steering I'm scared the tire is gonna hit the frame while jumping and turning

[@grantromriell4970]

Nice

[@edwardralphsmithbezuidenho492]

most cooling systems run at 1 bar or 14.5 psi then the pressure relief valve opens

[@jasonbirch1182]

You know how you smashed shit in the bike drivetrain? Trying to turn 32" tires with motorcycle chain is going to do the same im fairly confident. Look at the tire size difference. The gearing alone is enough to overstress it, but the mass of the tires is another issue.

[@theLyzhendricks]

I think it could be ok as long as he dosent go fast in it like he said but I guss we will see if bot guss he will have to fix it

[@jasonbirch1182]

@@theLyzhendricks that means it's not ok. You don't buy 1000s of dollars worth of parts and spend this much time building something you can't use as intended.

[@kevincampbell3173]

my biggest concern is the fact that with a wheel base that long theres going to be some severe binding in the drive train when making turns. with the size of the tires i think theres going to be carnage. also he has a solid front axel, theres a reason why most off road vehicles have an open diff in the front.

[@jasonbirch1182]

@@kevincampbell3173 fortunately he can turn off the 4 wheel drive for surfaces with full grip, but if it's already wound up it's not going to be happy about disengaging. I don't think the chains have a prayer with one good romp in low range regardless of the turning situation. I actually came up with a very similar idea for rear suspension years ago that I never got around to building. Great idea but the mass of those tires is huge. Figure that like Toyotas and jeeps that aren't that powerful start breaking axles with anything over 32-33. I'll be happy if it works but unlikely. I have a k24 and 5 speed that would be great in a buggy I think. 4wd would be cool.

[@Cavonny]

There might be an issue with the radiator being to far from the engine to cool properly?

[@MrArcticPOWER]

The radiator is great, but your fan won't push enough CFM. Those cheap 80W fans are week and weren't enough to cool a 850cc engine, so forget your 1300cc will overheat in no time.

[@jessemorrow3512]

Chris, are you sure you’re gonna be using all the radiator with your hot water not going all the way at the top of the tank

[@DougKulak]

You said wheelbase wasn't that much different... did you mean track?

[@DetroitMicroSound]

Proud to be a fan since long before Grave Ninja.....In fact, knowing me, I probably tried to convince you to call it something else. 😄 ..Nice little bench brake!! I still WOULDN'T be putting the radiator in front of me. you'll be hot cruising around in it, and if it ever blows when you are ripping hard, you'll be down wind from rad blowing 3rd degree burns at you with it's coolant. EVERY REAR ENGINE BUGGY YOU WILL FIND, HAS THE RAD BEHIND, BESIDE, OR ABOVE THE DRIVER, AND CO-DRIVER. My favorite placement is above-behind, with an air scoop, overhead, and a fan for idling. Nothing about this project, says "Trophy Truck". Brah! ...it's a 1000000% a buggy dude. don't call it sht that it's not.... People searching "Buggy" should be the people you want to find this badass machine....And they CAN'T. Meanwhile, people searching Trophy Truck, see this, and scroll on, because it's nothing like a trophy truck.

[@eriklarson9137]

lol

[@siemcaelers791]

Angry?

[@justinhowell8484]

Should build something for glamis or silverton? and get together with the sxsblog boys!!!

[@tujuprojects]

Do you know that there are different alu types that allow bending without shearing or cracking like that

[@dillanschuler4729]

It would be awesome if u made one of those with a rotary engine

[@Grinstedracing]

You should make a fire wall or something for the front if you overheat and that radiator pops your gonna have some hot water all over you