Building a more reliable SR20DET - Project GripS14

[@reidfenwick]

you guys have really been pumping out the content lately, thank you!

[@bodhifyer]

+Rusty Shackleford This channel is the kind of channel that every time I see a new video I know for sure it will be fire

[@speedacademy]

+TheReidGuy Thanks for watching, its enthusiasts such as yourself saying thank you that keep us motivated enough to keep turning out the content!

[@reidfenwick]

+Speed Academy its unbelievable how much I've learned from these videos!

[@monkylondon]

Man that was painful watching you torque the head studs 😅 what compression ratio are you running, stock? Thanks for the upload

[@8HugeIizHairY8]

+MONKY LONDON Nice to see you here. :D Drift for life!!

[@speedacademy]

+MONKY LONDON Yes, stock compression ratio. Stock head and stock block.

[@onigaijin9259]

They mentioned 90lbs/ft final torque recommended by ARP studds

[@ELDIESTRODIY]

MONKY LONDON heyyyyy

[@mrkouki180sx]

as a machinist and engine builder......NEVER NEVER NEVR take a wizz wheel to a deck surface

[@speedacademy]

+mrkouki180sx Yes, we talked to our machine shop friends and they all said the same thing. Its our mistake, we though the gasket remover pads were made specifically for that. Thankfully we didnt go too hard on the surface but we'll find out if everything sealed up properly in the spring!

[@mrkouki180sx]

+Speed Academy and i also reccomend against ARP studs for the sr20 they do not bottom out in the block as the threads are not as deep as the hole mazworx makes a stud with a blank shank at the bottom to allow the stud to bottom out into the block

[@mrkouki180sx]

+mrkouki180sx i also may not have paid attention but did you torque them down in 3 passes? 30ft lbs 60ft lbs and then finally 90 ft lbs?

[@RyanProsser0]

+mrkouki180sx Yes he did. That was the 'tense part' in the middle of video. 90 lbs ft starts about 8:30

[@usherly]

+mrkouki180sx as a backup to your argument against ARP head studs - brand new OEM bolts are cheap (~$50USD for the set) and they can handle up to 400HP (or more in some instances) What you DO want to do though is go with ARP rod bolts, the sr20 ones stretch and you'll blow a rod bearing get the caps cut, the rod bolts inserted and then torqued and line bored and you wont have a problem

[@TacticalDrift]

VIEWER BEWARE / SPOILER: YOU WILL NOT LEARN HOW TO BUILD A MORE RELIABLE SR20 ENGINE WATCHING THIS. After the rebuild, the engine lasts about 3 hours total and blows. The host of the video makes a multitude of mistakes in this build. The worst part is that the community tells him a bunch of things he did wrong and he totally brushes it off. You will see in later episodes he is like, "oh that didn't matter," or "its still running fine now." First video actually using the car; DEAD. So before you embark on watching 50+ minutes of content trying to learn to build a reliable SR, realize that this specific build is not reliable. Watch for entertainment value and see if you can notice the mistakes.

[@marc9283]

biggest mistake was to take a junkyard engine and expect it to last right? specially at the power it made...

[@klajoye481]

You guys are pumping out videos like crazy! I love it! Keep it up, fellas!!

[@subislide9884]

Speed Academy is the channel I press like before I watch, because I know Pete and Dave always leave me satisfied ;) lol

[@speedacademy]

+Subi Slide Thanks so much!

[@jesseDM240]

Jesse personal tool tip. It's good to have two torque wrenches. I have a 1/2 Snap on and a newer digital 3/8 Mac. I felt like my Snap on was taking forever to click, when my newer Mac was. Turns out the Snap on was over torquing 20 plus pounds. Calibration needed.

[@kbent88]

One of the new guys at work torqued an 8-32 Ti bolt to 90 inlb. Snapped right off. Not usually a big deal, but when its on a $90 million spacecraft, that noise was like a glass shattering. Got everybody's attention!

[@speedacademy]

Jesus I bet! That's insane!

[@mcdadcoleman]

I got this directly from tech support at ARP: You can use any kind of clean lube on the end that goes into the block, you just don't screw 2 pieces of metal together dry. I like to save the ARP Lube for the top threads, nuts & washers. Do not torque the studs into the block, screw them all the way into the block and then back them off just a hair like 1/64th of a turn so they are not tight. When you torque the nut it will take care of everything.

[@speedacademy]

+Mark Coleman Their instructions said nothing of using the lube on the block end. It mentioned using loctite as a permanent option.

[@mcdadcoleman]

+Speed Academy Yeah, so much conflicting info on the internet that I decided to ask them directly. Their main point was that no fastener should go in dry. Regular engine oil on the end that goes into the block, their lube on the other end.

[@speedacademy]

+Mark Coleman That's frustrating because it doesnt say anything in their instructions!!

[@figifister]

+Speed Academy I was told the same from arp themselves. make sure they are loose then tighten the nut.

[@MichaelTV44]

"just tighten shit down and go rip" should be a t shirt

[@ericcastillo207]

-Speed Academy lol

[@666MadDog]

+MichaelTV44 would buy ! :)

[@RyanProsser0]

@18:50 to @19:45 is highlights reel

[@jaguar123987x]

+MichaelTV44 I'm gonna do my own custom t-shirt with that text lol!

[@elliottmah]

Thanks for this video. I am an arm chair mechanic embarking on a 82 celica supra restore. This is a great video. Again, thanks.

[@REAPER0D]

like the 2g63 and the 4g63... you arent supposed to bottom the stud out in the block. take them to bottomed out, and back out 1/8th a turn then torque the head down... its stops the studs from bottoming out and prevents stripping the block

[@izzyplusplusplus1004]

I always grab a brand new utility razor and carefully scrape all gasket material away. Bad idea to use a air grinder on the block like that. Also, you had a hydrolock in the bottom of your head bolts. I heard him say there was a squelchy sound when he ran the studs in.

[@kernoodles]

taking the morning poop watching speed academy. hell yea

[@mcspikesky]

+Kern Lee asian efficiency so good

[@evermartinez6265]

its very satisfying when I hear the torque clicking on the head stud!

[@timwilsononline]

Great video! Torquing those bolts is like defusing a bomb. Stepping the torque up from 80 > 85 > 90 was a great idea.

[@speedacademy]

+Tim Wilson It certainly felt like it!

[@Redshift42]

I would get offended about your Rotary joke, except I'm too busy since I have to rebuild two 13Bs this winter.

[@speedacademy]

+Redshift42 well played haha.

[@48statenomad]

from a technicians perspective using your finger is like using your elbow to feel for any scratches in a decks surface use your finger nail and lastly use a straight edge with feeler gauges to check for proper "flatness". removing too much material is obviously possible and easier to do than you would think. just use a razor blade and do NOT scar/dig the shit out of it.

[@windywindy]

Im glad I subscribed to this channel. This is legit DIY race car building not like some other channels which I will not mention who do cheap ebay mods and trash cars. I wish I had a large enough garage to work on my evo in this Canadian whether!

[@speedacademy]

+windywindy Thanks! We're glad you like the content. What Evo do you own?!

[@oscarlainz]

woah guys! almost 50K! congrats! much respect from Madrid , España

[@speedacademy]

+oscarlainz Thanks, next goal 100K :)

[@vicjokoper8142]

When you use the torque wrench never make long equal force movements . Always make short pulls. I bet all your head bolts are torqued above 100nm. And also the first rule of building engines is use oil, you can never use too much oil !

[@speedacademy]

+Vicjo Koper Thanks for the tip. We didnt know that.

[@streetequipped795]

Glad to see you guys still making videos in this brutal cold weather

[@speedacademy]

+Street Equipped We're trying but struggling A LOT!

[@FentonDaniel]

Woohoo, always a good day when GripS14 video's arrive. Thanks

[@speedacademy]

+Daniel Fenton Thanks!

[@Mavstang73]

You guys should look up Roloc discs. The white ones are great for gasket removal without damaging the surface. OEMs specify them in service manuals as well.

[@jasonspearman6289]

talking to wolf technology, oem bolts are better than Arp due to the hardness of the stud. ur working with aluminum head and block. both soft that expand. the bolts could possibly strip the holes from heat expansion and contraction

[@Timman57]

yeah, I learned my lesson when I was 17 and I used one of those gasket remover whizzy wheels on a oil pump cover on my 304 in my javelin and it was completely jacked up, feeler gauge and straight edge showed that wheel WILL mess up the gasket surface. so please, use at your own risk, don't be lazy, bust out the razor blade and don't gouge the surface. just my 2 cents.

[@csafadit]

That was stressful to watch. Had me on edge. Loving the amount of content y'all are pumping out lately.

[@speedacademy]

+Chris S Thank yoU! We're trying to do as much work as we can in the cold shop but its been getting harder lately.

[@pohteoh6831]

just a heads up on fitting the oil pump cover to the block machine the two surfaces together. i had that slit on my sr20det and oil was dripping out from the cover. top build btw

[@speedacademy]

+Poh Teoh Thanks for the tip!

[@BernsteinOmega]

I also went through the same stress with torquing of my block/head. Kept feeling like it was stripping. Just powered through.

[@justintime6160]

Love it! keep the S14 build going pls! and why o why haven't you guys blown up yet! you deserve well over 100k subs! loving it!

[@speedacademy]

+Theonlyj2kk We hope to be there soon. :D

[@OhHolliwould]

Content for days. Loving all these updates!

[@speedacademy]

+Hollis Galloway Thanks!

[@rid3bikes]

Never use cookie discs on heads or blocks, how do you know its still true flat and doesn't have low spots? big no no 😥

[@Fordrally89]

Shoulda went to the machine shop....then check with a machinist straight edge .001 unless there worried about raising compression then whatever it's not my engine cheers good video

[@speedacademy]

+AnthonyAllMotor Agreed, it was a risky move but we'll soon find out if we messed it up or not.

[@speedacademy]

+Fordrally89 To go to the machine shop would've meant stripping the entire engine down and that's something I didnt want to do. We'll soon find out if I screwed it up though!

[@Fordrally89]

+Speed Academy gotcha been there fingers crossed 👍🏻

[@jimhiscott9423]

AnthonyAllMotor you are 100% correct. NEVER do this to your block or head!

[@Alkalineman]

love this series..nobody builds grip 14's.also nice to see a sr20 build as well(since I will never build one) keep up the good work

[@speedacademy]

+Michael Danthon Glad you're enjoying it. We can only hope it'll be a reliable track machine come spring time!

[@bblackmon19]

That timing chain tensioner you used was the old style, you should really get the oem updated one. It allows for more oil pressure to the tensioner and less chain slack and wear.

[@speedacademy]

+bblackmon19 Oh really? I'll definitely look up what the new style one looks like and see if I have it in my spare since I've got some kicking around.

[@UndergroundTrev]

I really like this channel, but the title of this video should be changed to "How To Ruin Your SR20DET". (that was mean to say and I'm sorry) Whiz wheel and scotch brite on the deck surface, crap in the cylinders, going out of torquing sequence on the head because you thought bolts were stripping, over-torquing the cams instead of buying the proper tool, and I didn't see any assembly lube used either which means you spun the engine over dry. Please be sure to pump up the oil pressure in the engine before you turn the key for the first time! I'm sure it will run, I just hope it lasts for you. And PLEASE add some annotations to this video so that someone who is watching it as a tutorial doesn't get the wrong idea! I don't mean to hate on you guys, again, I like watching your videos, but you don't want to give a novice out there bad advice.

[@GRIPWOLRD]

+UndergroundTrev Agree on all points! I almost cringed when they started turning the engine after nothing, not even some oil, was applied. And all the shavings??!?

[@g0atlif319]

+UndergroundTrev I agree entirely. should always lube cam bearings and crank bearings before a dry cycle. over torquing the cam caps will result in premature wear and restriction on the rotation of the cam itself(luckily its a chain driven cam). not tourqing them all the same will cause the cam to sit at an angle giving incorrect valve lift. Every time you install a timing device(belt or chain) you should cycle the crank AT LEAST 2 full revolutions(due to most engines being a 4-stroke) to confirm valve clearance. head studs should never be "reusable" no matter the brand. "double checking" your torque 99% of the time results in over tightening. using a debris producing wheel or sanding material on the head/block is ridiculous. sorry boys but i call this one a fail and i would highly recommend no one use this video as a tutorial.

[@LukaDermastja]

Totally agree...If this video is a "How to do" then no wonder why there are so many ruined SR20 engines...

[@sr20slider38]

If u could take 30 seconds, I have a 10 seconds vid. If u could watch it and maybe give a guess about my sr!

[@sugoigarage3250]

Do this is why the motor shit the bed months later at the track...

[@christiansharron8421]

Great vid. I hadn't heard the trick about the hydraulic lifters before thanks

[@TheCruzan92]

Way to go, guys. my engine builder missed the crucial lifter bleeding step, and then I had noisy lifters.

[@speedacademy]

+TheCruzan92 Sorry to hear! Hopefully they bled themselves over time and the noise went away.

[@TheCruzan92]

+Speed Academy They didn't bleed themselves. I tried doing it myself and forgot to put the motor on top dead center, so I also put it back together off timing by a couple teeth. Took it over to the shop and had them put it back on proper timing. Now lifters are quieter, but AFR's spike lean here and there. I'm guessing a vacuum hose got cracked in the process... Always something. haha cheers

[@speedacademy]

+TheCruzan92 Its never easy right! There's always something going wrong with engines and cars but you have to admit thats what makes this a fun hobby. :)

[@TheCruzan92]

+Speed Academy If I didn't love it, I would have sold it $6,000 ago. Haha! @thecruzan92 on Instagram if you guys wanna check it out.

[@arumrunner]

Wrenching in a Cold Canadian Shop dreaming of a warm track in July. It's a Canook thang...

[@speedacademy]

+arumrunner Isnt that the truth!!

[@0foxgiven]

I really hope people don't use this as a guide... "It's not clicking? That's cool, I'll just go to the next one. Fuck the pattern!"

[@dct223]

I know this video is old and people have already commented below... but YOU SHOULD NOT USE AN ABRASIVE SANDING DISC AND ABRASIVE SCOTCH BRITE ON AN ALUMINUM BLOCK AND HEAD!!!!!! Aluminum is soft, you were basically removing material off the surfaces/gouging it using that sanding disc and scotch bright, I could even see the scratches on some up close shots so in person I'm sure it was much worse. I would change your methods especially when working with aluminum blocks and heads, you guys seem to like that scotch brite a little too much. I cringed on almost every step you did to build this SR and for sure would not trust the reliability especially using a metal head gasket. For the head since you removed it, I would recommend sending that to a machine shop to get the surfaced decked and checked for warpage, I would say heads are more prone to warpage due to lifting or overheating etc. Since you took off the exhaust manifold , taking off the intake manifold is not that much more work. You can actually have both just sitting in the engine bay away from the head if you don't plan on removing the block. If the head is warped they can determine if they are able to cut it and if you need a valve job or not. As for the block, someone stated in the comments to use some type of gasket remover, I personally used lots of goo gone and razor blades, plastic razor blades are even better. I finished it off with super high grit wet sand paper and goo gone and a flat wooden block just using gravity and slow back and forth motion to get the remnants of the old gasket off. After, I cleaned it up and check the block with a machinist straight edge and feeler gauges as described in the FSM to check for warpage. You also should have removed those metal pins on the block to help with surfacing the block. In the previous video removing the cams you should have also mentioned that the rocker arms as well as the rocker arm shim/guides should also be kept in order just like the cam caps so during this install they should have all been in the same order. Labeling everything with a sharpie and baggies as well as taking pictures is key to engine builds/reassembly. Someone commented that you can reuse head bolts, I do not recommend it since they are a high tension bolt, they basically stretch when you torque them down. I would say studs are better and will have less of a chance of stripping the treads to your block and better sealing the head to the block. With the engine being on a stand, it would have helped having it secured by a friend or maybe a wall since the last step is 90 ft lbs. Also you should have used assembly lube or oil all over the rocker arms and cam shafts during reassembly. Reassembly for sure follow the FSM steps and follow all the torque specs as best as you can and new gaskets where necessary. Once all reassembled and fluids topped off/adjusted, not a bad idea to do a leak down test and compression test both hot and cold for final peace of mind. SRs get a bad wrap for being unreliable.. it's because too many people don't spend the time or care to build them, or just "slap it all together" "it'll be fine" "it if blows ill just get another one" etc etc etc. Don't think these issues I mentioned above were the cause of your rod knock in your later videos. The SR you got prob had a spun bearing already and with continued abuse/boost just got worse.

[@atraxr603]

Hand tight is probably without a tool xD Cause if you think hand tight with a tool then every bolt is hand tight even when you crank it down like crazy and strip everything. haha That was stressful PT and it's not even mine. Geez... I hate that feeling. But there is a tool to fix stripped head bolt holes. It has a special drill bit and a jig with which you drill a bigger hole and thread it and then screw an insert in it with red high strength Loctite. Then you use the head bolts. Although the tool is quite expensive considering what it is, just a special drill bit with couple of inserts and a jig.

[@newkindofviking6701]

Hey guys. I also do agree on the points below. That being said, my main concern was, though, that the shop was WAY to cold to have the right torque and stuff.. Bad, you couldnt warm it up.. I like the vids alot, and been watching for a few hours now, acually. I started with the Porsche motor build. Great KZbin show.

[@speedacademy]

We're trying to find a new work space so we don't have to suffer through the terribly cold winters without heating ever again!

[@djredhareaus38]

It doesn't matter if it's smooth what matters is if it's flat

[@speedacademy]

+dj red hare aus We used a straight edge to see if it was flat and it checked out. Fingers crossed its all good.

[@DiscoR53]

Tip, use the full grip on the torque wrench not the edge of the wrench, your torque values are going to be off.

[@tedpalmer1537]

+DiscoR53 Agreed, this dude, really needs to learn how to use a torque wrench properly.

[@speedacademy]

+DiscoR53 Thanks for the tip, it was an awkward job since the engine was on a stand and kept trying to rotate but I'll know focus on a proper grip in the future.

[@tedpalmer1537]

Try getting the other dude to hold the block instead of the camera.

[@StepHop5]

+Ted Palmer yeah a tripod is your friend

[@Dylan94]

90 ft-lbs seems crazy. I think my arp studs on my d17 civic engine was 62 on the final pass, i went ahead and went to 65 though and thought maybe i was going a little too overboard. I totally remember the stress of this step.

[@Dylan94]

+Dylan94 and also on the rocker assembly they were supposed to be torqued to like 17 ft-lbs and my torque wrench only went to 20ft-lbs on the lowest setting when i was installing my crower cam. You guys just get me.

[@speedacademy]

+Dylan94 Yeah its a lot but thats what ARP said!

[@leej8394]

Could watch this all day ! good video dudes

[@dawsonfoster5443]

You guys deserve way more subscribers for how good your content is. It's always so clear and raw. love it!!!

[@mattmatthew]

i would have run a #3 tap in the block stud holes before putting the new studs in. the tap helps to clean out garbage stuck in the threads (old grease, corrosion, etc.) that blowing compressed air into the holes won't remove, and acts as a way to check the integrity of the threads. i would have also used an absorbent material to clean up any liquids like oil or water at the bottom of the holes. if you have anything below the studs, it will resist you when going to final torque.

[@jasonspearman6289]

according to Jim wolf technology.. the oem bolts are safer than head studs. both head and block are aluminum and may stretch due to the expansion and contraction of the Heat. the studs will not and may strip out the holes in block or head

[@chownkay]

Was the Heads and Block checked for flatness? Head gasket is going to fail again if either surface wasnt flat

[@speedacademy]

Yes, well aware of that. I checked the block and head with a flat edge before putting it all together.

[@thicknick734]

i love sr20's and i love speed academy, perfect match for me

[@speedacademy]

+Nikki Naydenov Thanks, glad you like the content.

[@mikeh7425]

couple of questions. did you put sealant on the top surface of the head gasket at the timing cover and why didn't you use cam lube?

[@speedacademy]

+Mike H No sealant on the top surface as I didnt see it being called for in the Factory manual. I typically use cam lube on dry/new cams only but you're right it wouldnt have hurt to use some.

[@mikeh7425]

+Speed Academy thanks. I need to pull my head and don't want to take any chances. My head gasket is leaking at the timing cover so was curious about the sealant.

[@joshuavargas8475]

finally yes, thank yiu so much these s14 videos make my day.

[@ttpgarage]

Everytime I put arp headstuds even though ARP don't say it in the instructions for good measure where the studs have 6mm or 7mm Allen head I torque the studs to 15 lbs because by doing so the studs stay in place better and if you ever had to do the job again, the studs will stay in place and not back out with the arp nut. I've had the issue happen to me on a 4g63 where the studs actually back off. So that's why I torque the arps headstuds

[@Mrcrowntown]

The liquid gasket is to make sure you have a positive seal where the timing cover meets the block. Thats a main point of oil leakage on chain motors.

[@tx5brent]

I had youtube playing in the background, and I heard them say now we will remove the head gasket material and then I heard the buzz, instant wtf moment without even seeing the video.

[@Emikolaitis]

Typically with studs you don't wreck threads that's the beautiful thing about them. However I didn't hear you factor in the rotational stretch of that extension you were using so now you gotta go re torque them all again lol.

[@UntamedRacer]

you messed up your order when you torqued the cylinder head

[@norevlimitr1602]

Should have chased and cleaned the holes in the block before installing the studs. Oil residue in the holes may have caused your torquing issue.. Nice vids guys keep up the good work..

[@speedacademy]

+Binghamton Winabagel I shot compressed air into the holes but that may not have been enough.

[@LivingLifeSlower]

That torquing was seriously nerve destroying.

[@speedacademy]

+Martin Allen Haha, lets hope it hold together!

[@KwabenaAsamoah]

Is there a playlist for this Project? Looking forward to more!!

[@WILL-kv6cl]

always check the studs twice with the torque wrench, theres always a bit of extra play the second time

[@shazeebmw]

maybe you have to rethread your block how you put the the valve train together or it was already inside the head already?

[@kevinogle897]

Several things wrong with this video... 1. The abrasive disk you used was wrong. The correct one is the (cup shaped) 3m white brittle disk. It's designed for aluminum cylinder heads. I don't like using any of these personally because they are impregnated with aluminum oxide as the abrasive. That dust gets into EVERYTHING as you demonstrated in your video. It will eat up engine bearings and prematurely wear out cylinder walls. 2. The best way to remove old graphite composite gasket material is permatex gasket remover spray to soften up the gasket and gently using a carbide scraper & plastic razor blades. Follow that up with NON abrasive blue scotch brite pads. Turning the engine sideways and using a shop vac while you scrape also helps ensure you don't get that crap inside of your cylinders, water & oil passages. 3. I didn't see a straight edge or feeler gauge used anywhere to check the head or block deck for straightness & warp... 4. ARP head studs flat out suck. They aren't sr20 specific they are for a 1.8 liter VW. They don't bottom out fully in the block and that was probably what you were experiencing with the stud spinning. This can and WILL pull threads out of an aluminum block. Some people ghetto fix this by dropping a bb down the head bolt hole before threading the stud to make sure it bottoms out. Mazworx sells a stud with a slightly longer shank that will bottom out correctly in the block. 5. OEM head bolts are completely re-useable providing they have not exceeded the stretch length specified in the fsm. It even says to measure them and specifies a limit in the literature. 12mm bolts are huge and people have been making well over 450whp on oem hardware for years...

[@speedacademy]

+Kevin Ogle Thanks for all the info. We realize we've used the wrong disk, lesson learned. I am going to do an engine oil and coolant flush after startup to try to get rid of the debris so Im crossing my fingers with that. I really like your idea of turning the engine sideways though, great tip. We did check it with a straight edge before assembly but didnt show it in the video. I didnt know that about the ARP studs, I've used them plenty of times before hence why I thought they'd be ideal. I do know that MAZWORX makes great studs though. My OEM bolts were stretched hence why I didnt reuse them. Do you know whether increasing the torque rating on the OEM studs is worthwhile or risky?

[@kevinogle897]

+Speed Academy I wouldn't increase the torque on the oem bolt you run the risk of warping the head. The factory service manual torque procedure says to torque them to 35 or 40ft lb and then turn them 90 degrees twice using an angle gauge. I did this when I re-assembled my SR this past Christmas and let me tell you it was ALOT of torque... I have personally re-used oem head bolts on SR engines making upwards of 350whp with no issues. The cheap cost of replacing them makes them an easy choice for me. $40 at your Nissan dealer! The part number crosses over from a b13 sentra SE-R with a sr20de. As far as the debris that undoubtedly got into the engine I'd use a really good oil filter like a purulator pureone and change the oil after running it for a bit just like a break in. Fingers crossed for you! Seriously though, look into a "super scraper" it's a carbide scraper. Probably one of my best garage purchases.

[@mcdadcoleman]

I'm pretty sure you need the ARP lube on the end of the studs that go into the block in addition to the top. Were you guys to verify with ARP whether or not you put lube on the bottom of the stud?

[@speedacademy]

+Mark Coleman The instructions didnt mention it so we didnt do it. They said Loctite can be used on the block side of the studs if you want a permanent seal but otherwise no mention of assembly lube, only on the head side.

[@mikael9281]

like others have said don't use fuzzers on the block/head. and another chase the threads before putting the studs in. it helps a lot. and lube up those cam journals/caps before reassembly. you can even prime the oiling before putting it in. get a good reliable inch/lb torque wrench. slow down and grab a tripod guys lol.

[@speedacademy]

+Adam F Haha, we'll never slow down because the internet wants too many videos. :) Thanks for the tips though, they're all worthwhile.

[@cxbra]

My biggest question is.. How did you clean out the combustion chamber after the clean? I would think that a little dust of the scotch-brite pad would be resting along the top of the top piston ring..

[@speedacademy]

We used a combination of compressed air and hopes and dreams.

[@djevohill]

Great video! my advice... first put gasket, head and then the head studs.. makes it easy to put the head gasket without risking to bend it. And when you torque down you want to always check a second time, cause while you go through torquing the rest of the bolts they tend to ease off a bit and when you go to check you will fill a very small drift witch seats all down correctly.. This is just my advice..

[@speedacademy]

+djevohill good call! I think that's a much better method. And I did go over the studs and torque them all again a second time.

[@HyperScorpio8688]

When will you continue it? I can't wait to see how this car will do on the track...

[@speedacademy]

+Roland Csicsák In the spring time the car will hit the track!

[@onyxmotorsports4755]

yeah i was feeling your pain when torquing the head stud! great video one again guys

[@speedacademy]

+Behind The Wheel Never a good feeling right?!

[@buddtwin2]

It's because the bolt holes were not cleaned out good enough. Problems comes when there oil gasket material the studs don't sit good enough. Once u start torquing to that higher ranges it starts moving down. You should not have skipped around you should have went for it. Now you took a chance of the head not being Torque correctly.

[@speedacademy]

I actually blew out the bolt holes with compressed air and brake cleaner so they were clean.

[@izzyplusplusplus1004]

@@speedacademy you can force small pieces of gasket down there that don't come out because it's threaded. Did you get the nozzle all the way, or most of the way down there? My teach told me that in order to get the bottom of a headstud location, you need a long tip that reaches the bottom. A skinny straw also works.

[@BlakesGarage]

That was way to stressful torquing down that head. Almost had me sweating. Good job guys!

[@Cheeseypoofs85]

dont you also want the piston down when youre scrubbing around it? so you dont scratch up the piston top? cant that affect compression if theres enough scratches in the dish?

[@kn1fepo1nt75]

hi buddy, in regards the putting gasket sealant around the oil pump you really only need to drop some over the gap where the pump bolts to the block. the mls gasket has a crushable section all the way around the chain opening :D are you in the uk ?

[@beaujangles101]

Did you run the studs down with lube? I usually run down the thread with a clean head bolt before putting the ARP studs in to make sure the threads are clean. Also when installing the studs I am a bit OCD and use a digital vernier to ensure all studs sit at the same height. They should be hand tight as you said, but if there is something in the thread one or two studs might sit higher than the others even tho they feel hand tight. Then when you tighten them they might spin down a bit further and give you a scare.

[@speedacademy]

+Beautech We did actually check to see if they were all at the same height so we at least managed to figure that our properly!

[@ryans6101]

have you dropped that torque wrench at all ? if you have it can ruin the sensitivity

[@ChaseDiaz_garage_works]

I think it would've been funny if Dave torqued the head...he's got the next one Pete lol. I know the "spinning stud" feeling. Should be good. But I've never torqued down a Nissan head. Cool video!! Thanks.

[@speedacademy]

+Chase Diaz Dave torquing anything is never a good idea, let alone head studs that tight!! LOL

[@MrJcc0033]

Did you use ARP Thread Sealer on bolts that protrude into the water jackets? I'm doing the same thing on my KA24DE motor and can't find out which holes go into the water jackets.

[@HolmesProspecting]

That bolt tighten was nerve wracking!

[@speedacademy]

+Robert Holmes Haha, imagine doing it in real life! NOT fun.

[@patrickdeed5143]

Awesome video! One question, why was he using sr20de not det arp studs? I just finsihed this exact process and stripped the head stud holes. Except my block is built so the i couldnt just swap out the block... Would love to see a video of you gugs dropping it back in the car also! keep it up guys!

[@speedacademy]

+Patrick Deed I'm using the head studs that are for an SR20DET.

[@Datsun510zen]

I've experienced that spooky feeling that the stud has stripped the aluminum threads in the block. In all reality the head studs have almost 2 inches of M11 x 1.5 deep thread pitch holding them in. More than likely either a bit oil or water has collected at the bottom of the thread cavity and is being forced out, or the head is slightly warping as it's being torqued down and take a few more turns to get it to seat flat again.

[@doctorlobsteroctopus]

So stressful to watch! Glad it turned out okay, I feel vested in this build for some reason too haha.

[@grapeknutz]

The problem with using any abrasives is that its dislodges grit and it will deposit itself between the cyl wall and piston and work its way to the rings. Really the best way is to have a bare block and clean it with soap and water..

[@speedacademy]

+grapeknutz Yeah, we thought of that AFTER putting the engine back together. Really its a lose/lose situation because cleaning the block with a razor blade never cleans the surface perfectly. Yet cleaning it the way we did, contaminates the passages and bore...

[@BeeBeefy]

Man, its satisfying to see it torqued down, not sure why.

[@speedacademy]

+Horng Jian Bee Lets hope I did it right!

[@Datsun510zen]

Funny how many guys condemn using a wheel to clean the block, but I couldn't find anyone giving the "right" way of doing it. I use a flat edge razor to scrape the surface bare, then use a Scotch Bright pad to make it shine.

[@seinfeld11123]

+Datsun510zen you always take it to a head shop. get them to deck the heads and block, and do the final wash. Then build yourself. that guarantees a good fit.

[@Datsun510zen]

+jack black No argument that resurfacing the head is the best guarantee for a good fit. Would I resurface the head every time I change the gasket? No, only if it was warped, and thats an easy test using a flat milled granite slab and a flash light. But surfacing the stout SR block is unwarranted. If somehow the block surface were warped or distorted due to head, or stress than IMO it's only value is recycled aluminum.

[@NEXUSREIGN48]

"You failed me yet again" lmao, great content guys!

[@hakei_9343]

need more stuff like this on youtube :D

[@esoteric__]

I noticed that when you were removing the lifter from the oil cup, that you didn't keep it vertical. That could be the source of that noisy tick you're putting up with in your most recent video. They get noisy as fuck when they have even the littlest amount of air in them.

[@TheCatMurray]

what brand torque wrench is that? we have a really similar one, and it get's really inaccurate above 70-80 ft-lbs, compared to a decent snap on. we've definitely stripped a nut or two with it

[@giannko7]

is there any time space u have to wait between the torques of the head studs?

[@belloautomotive1522]

The finish on the block has me a little worried. Normally on a NA car that sort of finish would be fine since it would not see very high cylinder pressures, but I'm worried in this boosted application the pressure might follow the path of the tiny scratches left behing from the disc and lift the head or head gasket from the water jacket to the combustion chamber. I guess time will tell. Great stuff guys love the videos

[@speedacademy]

+BlueCollarDreams Actually, when you consider the compression ratio of 9:1 plus only 15psi of boost I dont think the pressure vary that much from an NA engine that sees 11:1. The tiny scratches wont matter much, that's what the silicone finish on the gasket is for but thats just our very unprofessional opinion haha.

[@g-mane7497]

great video guys. this is gonna help me alot with my sr20 as well.

[@ramonesfreak2010]

I noticed assembly lube wasn't used on the camshaft lobes. Is that ok? I too also didn't use the lube, but was debating on going back and putting some. Also building a SR20. :)

[@speedacademy]

+Thomas Morataya I only use assembly lube on new camshafts since they havent been broken in so I personally think its completely fine. Others may not think so though.

[@josift1283]

you can actually use the green 3m disks. they're for aluminum so way less aggressive. and don't have to scotch brite after.

[@speedacademy]

+JoJo Tk Thanks for the tip!

[@CHAP9DIIETPOBU4]

наши ребята, делают на заказ усиленные болты, в 4 раза крепче чем у arp. молодец. хороший труд. коленвал, корзину, сцепление, маховик и шкив, балансировал ?

[@jimm7541]

I dont understand why you guys dont have more subscribers

[@speedacademy]

+jim M We don't either! :) Help spread the word for us!

[@ndh8445]

Yet another beaut video! Did you guys change the timing chain?

[@zapszapper9105]

a work wheel of anysought won't leave the top of the block dead flat. Use a surface grinder.

[@d_k_n]

No rocker arm stoppers? No new cam bearings?

[@therealboofighter]

When I put new cams in my Toyota 5sfe the caps were set at 14 pounds feet.

[@frozenpete788]

Hand tight ? 1/4 of a turn before it breaks :p I'm always worried about tightening a cylinder head too. When you're on the last pass at full torque, you don't know if the bolt is stretching too much, if you are ripping the threads in the block etc (pros for the ARP studs is that it's some good stuff and new) By the way, is the gasket removal wheel is like sand paper ? I'm concerned about fine particules stuck between piston and cylinder wall for example.

[@speedacademy]

+Frozen Pete It is, we cleaned cylinders the best we could but lets hope that everything is OK. We really shouldnt have used the disc on it as it seems that its too risky. At the time though, it was a good idea...

[@frozenpete788]

+Speed Academy I know what you mean, sometimes it's hard to think about every aspect. I used fine sand paper once for a cheap daily driver, it dusts cylinders and oil galleries ( I didn't care about that one and the engine is bulletproof). For a cast iron block surface I use a sharp blade, it takes more time for sure, then I finish with a cleaner and a some elbow grease. For the aluminium head, I let the machineshop do, resurface by shaving a few thousands millimeters, it's cheap and the finish is awesome. So far I've been lucky I guess

[@speedacademy]

+Frozen Pete When the machine shop did it, did they break down the entire engine or did they just shave it as is with the pistons in the block?

[@frozenpete788]

+Speed Academy They want bare blocks (or heads) because of the shavings and the cleaning work they do before and after. I take the time to disassemble everything before, so it's a cheaper bill, and they don't waste time removing parts I can remove myself ;)

[@speedacademy]

+Frozen Pete Yes, something both of which I dont have too much of haha.