Building the Affordaplane Part 47

[@audiophile1024]

I can't thank you enough for making this outstanding series. Well done Sir.

[@karlalton3170]

Ive followed this build with great interest being a retired engineer its fascinating and great to watch , i bet you cant wait to get this up in the sky 😁😁👍👍👍

[@JimPfarr]

FYI - tip for centering the rudder and rudder pedals. I clamped 1x4 wood on either side of the rudder to center it, then used 2 clamps (one per rudder pedal) to attach a bar or piece of wood across both pedals to get them straight with eachother. This way I could stabilize the alignment and make adjustments while securing the cables (which without the clamps and wood is a squirrelly process)

[@m180190]

Thank you for your series Jon, I look forward to your videos every week and the effort that you put into them.

[@Tommy-B.]

For hand tightening 5/16 and 8mm I like the 6 in 1 screwdrivers. Just pull out the bit on the big end and it is that size. Usually easier than wrenching.

[@JMOUC265]

Nicely done. Thanks for sharing with us.

[@alimo765]

well done mate. many thanks x

[@mikeryan6277]

Fish the waters around River Vista often, great location.

[@mohammedahmed-vx5zc]

انت عبقري وتفيد البشر

[@ronedson687]

It looks like you have connected the left side rudder cable at the rudder pedal differently than the right????

[@HomebuiltHELP]

Good visual catch on your part! I was quickly prototyping and threw that together incorrectly for the video! Also, still experimenting with different springs at this stage.

[@ronedson687]

@@HomebuiltHELP I love this series about the affordaplane . I hope many people have taken advantage of you instruction, and this series has given them the courage to make one. I have followed you for quite a while . You do a great job , keep it up!!

[@jbl7092]

This is my all time favorite aircraft channel. I might even build one of these planes. Took the first step and bought the plans.

[@andrewbetances1203]

@@ronedson687 I used his ch701 Wing video. Couldn't have done it without him. Now I just need time to do the rest.

[@LTVoyager]

I would consider putting the anchor screws on the rear guides on the side opposite where the cable rubs. It appears now that the cables are almost in the same place as the screw and as they wear into the Delrin they will hit those screws at some point and that will be bad.

[@JimPfarr]

More good work as always, Jon! Wondering if the design considered using Teleflex push-pull tubes rather than plain cables? They would weigh more of course, but would have the advantage of constraining the cable and reducing potential chafing.

[@spency787]

Did you consider using pulleys instead of the Delrin tubes? I can’t help thinking that the wear and friction between the cables and guides will be quite high.

[@biffaplayz]

That's what I was thinking. At least on the rear one where the cable leaves the sleeve at an angle towards the rudder.

[@peteranderson037]

I think the rule of thumb is a pulley is only necessary if the angle is greater than 15 degrees. Yes, they will wear out over time, but it takes a really long time. Long enough that they only need to be checked during an annual condition inspection.

[@HomebuiltHELP]

You are correct - if this was a certified design then pulleys would be needed in some of those places. In our case, the loads are extremely light due to the gentle pull and small angles. Also, these delrin guides are literally in your face for examination. I will guarantee in this specific application that you will never need to replace these guides as a result of normal use and wear!

[@RobotoForgoto]

Could you put the tubing in a drillpress and use a file to make a groove deep and wide enough for the AN Clamp? One less part to come loose?

[@dennispitz7488]

Shane: that delrin doesn't wear away very well, so the best way of doing what you are suggesting (which is a great suggestion) is to somehow cut the groove for the AN clamp. A small hobby lathe is great for that type of work, but I suppose you could rig something up to actually cut it in a drill press.

[@echopapacharlie]

Since this tail wheel is on a leaf spring of sort, in the event the tail is set down heavily, will the deflection of the spring cause an unacceptable tension on those cable / spring assemblies?

[@HomebuiltHELP]

Will have to find out - but I do not think so - as the geometry of the spring deflection does little to change tension on those cables.

[@MrMadtractor]

i’m surprised this is going to be 250# just seems a lot heavier , but looks cool i like it

[@jonasmaragno9527]

muito engenhoso!

[@Jack-ne8vm]

6:15 hope cable doesn't wear through & rub against screw

[@HomebuiltHELP]

Its not even close (rides on bottom of tube) but good observation! Thanks

[@davidwhite2011]

Aluminum will be very susceptible to galvanic corrosion in contact with copper, assuming that the two metals are also in contact with a common electrolyte (such as water with some ionic content.) Almost any text or handbook on corrosion will have galvanic series table. How about aluminum adel clamps?

[@abundantYOUniverse]

One would normally think that but no we haven't had any problems at all, even in the Florida humidity, for over 22 years. Thanks.

[@RobotoForgoto]

AN hardware is coated to be compatible with AL. Its the self.tapping screw i would question!

[@davidwhite2011]

@@RobotoForgoto Couldn't tell that was AN adel, looked like a water pipe clamp. The screw pulling out is worrisome. Maybe a well nut would insulate it all?

[@LTVoyager]

Where is copper on contact with aluminum?

[@davidwhite2011]

@@LTVoyager 2:28 unless its not copper.

[@neallee103]

Those dam self tapping screws will vibrate out and become FOD. Please don't use them you will be flattening everyone tires. Use rivets or make a glue on one and use JB weld

[@HomebuiltHELP]

I understand your concern. As I had mentioned on the video, a drop of blue loctite will do the job for peace of mind.