Building the Engine for our 1982 Fiat 124 Spider Project! It's easy... right? Pt. 1

[@dennisjump8655]

I'm glad that someone knowledgeable is going step by step like this. So many rush through or don't properly explain.

[@GarageTimeTV]

I did my best! I felt like I could’ve on a few more things, but hindsight is 20/20. I appreciate you checking it out!

[@benschram]

This is the best explanation 'how to' of how to put an engine together I've seen so far on youtubes. I learned far more from this one video than the months of videos I've watched so far. Well done.

[@GarageTimeTV]

That is so kind of you! Thank you so so much!

[@mattphillips3889]

Perfection is in the detail.

[@TOLB7471]

As of this afternoon my wife’s hot rod RZR engine is ready to go back in. Then it’s time to do this to my 78. Can’t wait! We’ll done BTW.

[@seths8968]

Great work. Appreciate you taking the time to document the process

[@GarageTimeTV]

Of course! Thank you for subscribing!

[@Justin-wp3jq]

I bought a set of 10.8:1 pistons from AutoRicambi and the rings I got were out of spec by .003 (.020 clearance for the first compression ring) so I called them and the guy basically told me that ring manufacturers just kinda suck and up to .026 was my "real" tolerance. Interesting bit of advice though it seems all of yours were pretty in-spec

[@christenjackson4364]

Hi Uncle Marshall it is Ember ❤😂 I love you

[@GarageTimeTV]

@@christenjackson4364 love you too!

[@mitchm1985]

great job.. i am on the same status with my CS0 engine. But, have you balanced the weight ob pistons and connection rod's? A you sure that you put the thrust ring in right direction? Doesn't look like this in the clip.

[@GarageTimeTV]

Yes and yes. The thrust ring was placed on correctly off camera, I just used them as they were as a demonstration of where they went. Good catch though!

[@68Elanplus2]

Isn't there to be an allowance for the additional "gap" needed on the crank bearing gaps to account for the assembly lube?

[@GarageTimeTV]

When I measured the bearing gaps, I was within spec according the manual. So the gap I had is enough for lubricants

[@juliorosell7961]

once again! great job. I might end up doing all of that myself. Today, my timing belt gave out on my 1975 and It might have caused critical damage. Not a happy camper. keeping my fingers crossed damage is minimal.

[@GarageTimeTV]

Well, the best thing to do is pull the head. That’s the best way to evaluate as much as possible at once. I hope you’re safe, but you never know. Thank you for tuning in!

[@davidsmith4992]

Great videos I'm doing the same, question what piston set did you get from Vicks? it looks like the pop-up but they say in the text not to deck your block? And was that .4 or .6 oversized? thanks keep up the good work!

[@GarageTimeTV]

I got the pop top set. I went .020 oversized in the bores and 6mm over on piston size. I had the machine shop use the pistons to size the holes properly. I didn’t have the top necessarily “decked” but cleaned up and smoothed. Hardly anything was taken off the top.

[@davidsmith4992]

@@GarageTimeTV That helps out greatly thanks!

[@lesservicesaccent1876]

Hey Matt, question, what did you torque your engine oil pan bolts at?

[@GarageTimeTV]

They are small bolts. Only a 10mm. They don’t need much, but 12 ft lbs should be enough

[@lesservicesaccent1876]

@@GarageTimeTV thank you very much for your help Matt!

[@mikeC871]

Hey Matt, I’m replacing the oil pump on 79 Fiat Spider. I will run oil through the pump before installation but after installed, should I crank the engine without fuel and no spark, with valve covers off and checking when oil comes to the top?

[@GarageTimeTV]

You could, but it would be better to use a tool to crank the pump. On GM cars they are keyed and you can use a drill to prime it with a screwdriver end. The sump end is on the intake side with a round cover. You could open that (10mm nut holds it down) and prime it.

[@mikeC871]

@@GarageTimeTV Thank you for the quick response. Sounds good, I will check that out, I appreciate your help. 👍

[@GarageTimeTV]

@@mikeC871 just remember that the Aux shaft is what drives your oil pump. You’d have to pull it to do this. The Aux shaft has a lobe that will interfere with the crank. Is this a rebuild or just a pump replacement

[@mikeC871]

@@GarageTimeTV Matt, yes I’m aware about Aux shaft but it’s just a pump and oil pan replacement. I decided to this because I’m replacing the crossmember which makes it a lot easier. Thanks Matt

[@GarageTimeTV]

@@mikeC871 got it! We are doing a live stream tomorrow if you want to stop by and we can chat about it! Starts at 6:00 central

[@antoniofonseca7291]

Whats up my friend l really like your videos great stuff. You inspired me to pick up a 1982 fiat spider. I had a question if you could answer it. I'm not getting power to the fuel pump. Does this year 124 have a fuel pump relay?'

[@GarageTimeTV]

Thank you for your kind words! They are worth saving! There is a relay, but the relay is not engaged until the AFM (air flow meter) flap opens. When it opens it send signal to start the pump.

[@carlseiler6441]

Really enjoy the detail. I didn’t quite understand the color thing when installing the rings, though.

[@GarageTimeTV]

You want to be able to see both colors, that means there is a gap for oil to travel. If you overlap and only see one color, the ring is too tight.

[@peteshack1164]

Marshall - great video!! I've just installed my crankshaft with new bearings and torqued correctly. I checked my front bearing with plastigage and got .002 which is right at the bottom of .0020 - .0037 for my 1800 engine. My only concern is I can't really turn it by hand. I can put a wrench on it and easily turn it. Do you think I be concerned?

[@GarageTimeTV]

Thank you! It Does sound a little on the tight side, but you’re within spec. When you installed the crank, did you lube the bearings with assembly lube? They don’t want to be dry on install. You’d burn them up. To be safe, I’d measure again.

[@peteshack1164]

@@GarageTimeTV Thanks for the reply and thanks for recommending I re-measure! Clearance was actually .0015. I have more details on fiatspider forum, author peteshack. Not really sure what to do.

[@GarageTimeTV]

@@peteshack1164 you would need to grind your crank down at a machine shop. They could trim it for clearance.

[@peteshack1164]

@@GarageTimeTV Thanks again. Great to have some expert input when you're doing something new!

[@GarageTimeTV]

@@peteshack1164 not a problem! Let me know how it goes. You can join our Facebook group and post pictures and such to keep the conversation going

[@evasesh6585]

I need some help on my engine rebuild, I noticed that mine is missing the internal crank case breather tube. ( I purchased a Fiat in a box ) I am trying to track a replacement one down but all of my searches are coming up empty handed. Any idea what I should look for, or even a part number. The service manual doesnt even mention it, and all parts diagrams point to it, but do not list what is is.

[@GarageTimeTV]

Is it the metal circle piece on the side of the engine block that you’re looking for?

[@evasesh6585]

@@GarageTimeTV It was the tube that runs inside of the crank case from the little breather cover on the driver side. But I just found it at the bottom of one of the boxes. Now I just need to make sure I have everything else I need for that breather. I know I missing the mounting bolt that goes in from the top.

[@GarageTimeTV]

@@evasesh6585 glad you found it! I went through Vicks, and they had any hardware mine was missing. Mine was in pieces as well, so I’ve been in your shoes!

[@samialjaraki8062]

Can i ask you a question? I own a fiat 124 sport 1800cc ( it has the same engine as yours ) Anyway, recently i drove the car on low engine oil ( my bad but i had to) so i had a knocking sound after the trip, later on I refilled the engine with oil and the knocking noise was gone kinda, yesterday i was planning to take it to me mechanic, and as soon as i tried to drive, i heard a knock and the engine stall, now it wouldn’t rotate, i took of the head and everything looks fine, the cams are ok, but the piston wont move, i tried to put it in 5th gear and push it forward and backwards, the are still stuck ( the aux gear rotates smoothly ) so do you have any idea what might cause this ? I also disconnected the mechanical fuel pump cuz I thought it might be broken but it looks fine

[@GarageTimeTV]

@@samialjaraki8062 so that sounds like rod knock. Unfortunately, it’s sounds like the bearings on your connecting rods (they attach to the crankshaft) are toast. Due to the lack of oil, they seized in place. You will need to remove the engine and take off the oil pan. You can then unbolt the connecting rods to expose the bearings. The crankshaft will probably need some polishing or even a grind depending on damage.

[@YogisGarage]

I'll give you my ring expander tool. I have an extra.