VTEC Oil Pressure Switch | P2646 P2647

[@dfields9511]

Few years back I got p2647 I had about 20% oil life left. I had in the last oil changed uses at205 to help with an oil leak. I had used this before in a nissan maxima with no issues. I looked at the oil and it looked more dirty then usually for 20% oil life left. (Honda odyssey 2007) 220k miles apx. Was able to. Drive it back home in limp mode. Just a few miles . Just for the heck of it decided to change the oil but no at205. But 5w20 sync blend high milage havoline . Then next 2 oil changes changed it at 50% oil life. I have never seen the code come back. Going on few years now. I guess the at205 might of clogged something perhaps Those screens in the vtec systems. This one is a great vid on how to replace and test it

[@FutureDreamZz]

Thank you for the second video

[@angeldejesus65]

Great video... now time for me to troubleshoot

[@unebonnevie]

On the Honda Accord, at least my 2001 Honda Accord, there are TWO oil pressure switches, the VTEC one discussed in this video, and the oil pressure switch that is responsible for turning on/off the red oil light on your dashboard, if you do not have enough oil pressure.

[@MrSamPhoenix]

Where’s the one responsible for turning on/off the dash located?

[@briansmith8020]

Hey, I’ve found your videos recently and have found them helpful. When I’m in 1st-2nd gear I have to push on the pedal quite a bit for the car to actually speed up. I’m not sure if it’s the pressure switch but could you give me a hint?

[@bowlzie88]

What kind of a car do you drive? My car that requires PREMIUM fuel has done this if I accidentally put mid or low grade in it.

[@unjointedlogic5397]

Is this part on the 3.5 engine like on the pilot?

[@MrSamPhoenix]

It should be

[@davidortega7474]

Would this problem bring up a P2646 code?

[@MrSamPhoenix]

I have this code on a 4th-gen TL. At first it was just a low oil warning on the dash. I replaced the switch with a 3rd party part. Then this code popped up along with the low oil pressure warning. I don’t know what else to do.

[@felipecustodio8934]

Does it matter which side of the connector power comes from to the oil pressure switch?

[@mikeyflo3045]

I'm leaking oil, I followed where it was dripping, and I thought it was an oil pressure switch, but after replacing it, it's still dripping. Do you think it's the vtec switch?

[@WNL965]

Could I get to this oil switch without taking the tire off?

[@clutchymaster151]

Would this issue cause my to shut off while driving and not crank anymore?

[@Oneupservice]

if you have a scanner, pull the data pid for the oil pressure switch, put a jumper pin between the connector side, if the data PID says on, you have a bad oil pressure switch. Your welcome. If it still says off check your circuit integrity.

[@mikeyflo3045]

Should I hand tight the switch? Or torque it a little?

[@oscarncandi2013]

9ftlbs

[@TheWilferch]

12V for battery voltage is pretty much a flat battery (4:00-4:13). 12.75V is 100% charged.....12.5% is about 75% charged and so-on...maybe that's a contributor to the problem.

[@AFFYJAMBO]

And the worst thing after checking all things will be the oil pump

[@1320MotorSportsBR]

Or worn bearings

[@MrSamPhoenix]

Is that a common issue with these engines?

[@timvo4675]

Thanks vedio,,

[@Michael-y5b7u]

When you said nothing is happening on the second pin of harness side, there were things happening on the multimeter

[@NSandore]

Did you happen to find the resolution to your issue? I’m getting 12v on the right, and 35v on the left. Wondering if it’s an electrical issue, be it the connector, the wiring, or the ECU

[@mattfoley6082]

Your tests don't reveal if the pressure switch works, only if it's getting voltage. This video shows how to test everything on VTEC (pressure switch and solenoid). kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIXMpGVvgrZ2arc

[@Patrick-z3e]

Location of oil switch. Driver or passenger side

[@MaxPleaseBeAGoodBoi]

Passenger I think