Carving on a 3D Surface - Part 4 - V-Carving for the Absolute Beginner

[@mtz3843]

i just retired a few ago, in the past i have done alot of scroll saw projects, now i am about to buy a cnc machine, thankyou for taking the time to do these videos, i have learn alot an continue to learn, again thankyou for doing these.

[@toddnewhook9312]

Hi Mark. I recently ventured into the world of CNC and purchased a machine a few months ago. Finally getting down to building more detailed tool paths, and I came across your videos! I wish I had you as a teacher in school - well paced, detailed and visual! Thanks for giving me the tools to be more confident in this new world. I will watch most of or if not all of your videos! Cheers!

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you very much, Todd! I'm glad to hear they're helping!

[@minksracing3x6y58]

Thank you for this series. I have bought a Spark Robotic RTR 84 and it is going to be here soon. I am trying to learn how to get ready for it. Your channel has been real helpful and I am enjoying watching your videos.

[@roblemcke9666]

You sir are very good at helping people understand the program I'm a newbie and wouldn't be able to do this without these videos

[@michellehamm3886]

Videos are super simple to view.

[@garydoney9749]

Thanks for taking the time to help others like myself. A great display of servant leadership.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you, Gary. I hope it helps you out!

[@jimhester2004]

Very logical explanation, Mark. It's a little ahead of where my current progress is, but when I get to the point of doing 3D, the basics you outlined here are going to make it a lot more understandable. Thanks.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you, Jim. I see a lot of questions about v-carving onto 3D surfaces, and had someone ask me in a PM, so I did this video in response. I'm going to get back into more basic topics next week. Thanks for watching!

[@jimhester2004]

I look forward to all of them. Basic, intermediate, and advanced. They're all good. By the way, I subscribe to a music channel called "Mark's Memories", and it's from someone in Portland that posted about the same time as your reply. By any chance, is that you?

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

No sir, that's not me. The only thing I can play is the stereo (but I can really jam on that!) I'll have to go check him out. Thanks for the tip!

[@piotrstelmach4440]

Thank you sooo much Mark. Youre saving lives ! Thanku you !!

[@benniemurray4201]

You have a knack for teaching, Great explanation and attention to detail so that a beginner can grasp what is actually going on. Keep up the good work!

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you very much. I do appreciate it. Hope you're finding them helpful.

[@jenniferpeterson7420]

I am a beginner and your tutorial videos have helped me tremendously! Thank you very much!!! :-)

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you for the kind words. I do hope the videos helped you out.

[@stevegronsky8904]

Thanks Mark. Your pace and attention to detail is greatly appreciated. My CNC is on order from Laguna and I'm trying to get educated before its arrival. I've watched all 4 lessons and await number 5!!!!

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you very much for the kind words, Steve. There will be more coming in this series as well as the others.

[@genelowe7209]

You are the MAN!! I’ve been binging your tutorial videos. It’s so easy to follow your logic. Thanks so much for your efforts.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you for watching! Glad to hear you're enjoying them.

[@briandonovan156]

Mark, Your videos are the best...…. thanks for taking the time to teach your knowledge.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you very much, Brian! I hope they help!

[@sienalfing3571]

Top uitleg van uit de nederlands😊

[@68shiloh]

Mark you are doing a great job. You explain things so clearly. Best on Utube

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thanks very much for the kind words!

[@ricardojbj]

Cristal clear english for me. Tanks

[@Mr_Chuckles]

Excellent series

[@police1177]

Your videos are so helpful. I just started learning CNC and you're helping me a lot. Thank you

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you for checking them out! I'm glad to hear that you're finding them helpful!

[@bobfilzen5539]

Mark thank you for all the good information.I'm a beginner and learning alot.

[@jigsey.]

Keep referring to this great series, thank you again mark

[@cliffphillips9952]

Great video for beginners Mark, keep them coming they are really useful..

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thanks for the kind words, Cliff! I do appreciate it.

[@jimcampbell1705]

I have enjoyed your video and it's help me learn a lot about this program.

[@StevenDavisPhoto]

Love your videos. You just talk super slow, so I have to play at 1.25-1.5x speed. Haha. *subscribed*

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you. I speak slowly because I'm the one who does the closed captioning for the videos. If I speak as I do normally, it's a lot harder to do. And the text isn't on screen long enough to be read and understood. A lot of folks tell me they watch at 1.25 or 1.5 speed. That's cool. Whatever works best for you.

[@MegaTopdogs]

Easy to follow for everyone great tutorials Mark !!!!

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you, Geert!

[@jimmyweber1662]

@@MarkLindsayCNC hi Mark i have really enjoyed your training sessions. I'm having issues from the time i finished the drawing to export it to the post processor Im using Aspire sending it to xcarve easel. Which vidos do i need to watch that goes fro toolpath to the post processor gcode creator. Thank you for the great info! Or if you know someone that is willing to walk me through it. Thanks Mark

[@michaelbolling8513]

Awesome Mark! I am enjoying these....all FOUR so far! :-)

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thanks, Michael! lol

[@v-dub1317]

Excellent instructions! I have been struggling for months after purchasing my CNC machine. In 5 videos (Absolute Beginner series 1-5) you have literally given me the know how, and confidence to realize that I can actually do this. Thank you so much! I am heading to your site now to support your training. I'm also wondering if you have some good contacts for bit purchases. I love my bits (won't mention the brand) but they are very pricey!

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you very much! It's been my experience that good quality bits are pretty much the same. I get great results with Amana, Whiteside, CMT, Bosch, Kyocera and Yonico bits. They all perform pretty much equally. One suggestion I'll make is to avoid kits or sets and buy bits separately (unless the bit you need only comes in a kit or set.) I find that most bit sets come with bits you'll seldom use, if ever. I was taught at a young age to buy tools as you need them, so that's what I do. That way I don't end up with a bunch of tools I'll never use.

[@1947TC]

Another brilliant lesson , thank you very much.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thanks very much, Terry!

[@kylervitterais5448]

Thanks Mark appreciate the video learned how to use what came with the software today thats a definite help.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you for watching! Good luck, and make some chips!

[@shaneh928]

Thanks for all you do Mark!

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thanks for watching, Shane! I do appreciate it!

[@mbellizia75]

Excellent video Mark! Do you have a video on how to apply raised text to a 3d object? I cant seem to find guidance on this particular feat. Thanks for what you do!

[@rayjohnson4395]

Very good video

[@IH1940HAY]

Around 29:27 you discuss cutting to the correct depth, but in the Vbit setup you set the FLAT to zero. Where/ how is the Vbit depth set? I have a 3D shape that was sent to me, I cut it out, then move the Vbit to the surface of the material and zero the Z axis. I clicked on the characters I wanted to cut into the surface and like you set the flat to 000, and clicked on the follow the contour. I then cut the characters and they were very deep cutting into each other. Then moved the router off the object and moved the Vbit to the current Z zero, then raised the Vbit 0.060” and set Z zero at that height, (0.060” above the material) and cut the text into the material, this time the depth was OK. I’m not understanding how the Z cut depth is set, will I

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

The best bet is to send me an email through the Contact Us page of my website. I'll need to see a couple of pictures of what you've got going on in order to try to help. Send me a message, and I'll reply to it. Then you can attach pictures in your reply. Thank you!

[@joehengy1338]

Another excellent video. For future, more advanced video ideas, I'd like to reiterate Jaez85's request for importing an Aspire file (if it can be done) as well as importing from websites like Thingaverse and doing the setup to Pro or Desktop.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thanks very much, Joe! Unfortunately, Aspire files cannot be imported directly into VCarve. An Aspire user can export a model as an STL file, which can then be imported into VCarve. But Aspire CRV3D files can't be imported directly into VCarve. I do plan on a video that demonstrates importing 3D files into VCarve, but it's going to be down the road a bit.

[@CandyJunction]

I’m sure this is a dumb question but when you run the VCarve tool path after the 3D you have it set to zero off the material surface in the center. How do you do that when some of the material was carved away? We don’t have a touch plate so maybe that’s where my disconnect lies. The software still thinks the material surface is the same as the material in the job setup. Thanks for your help and thanks for making these videos. Finally something that I can follow without having to pause and go back every 10 seconds 😊

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thanks for checking out the video! I caused a bit of confusion on this topic, and plan to clear it up in a future video. The gist is, you can set your Z zero just about anywhere on the material. Set your X and Y zero as you normally would. If you're not using a touch plate, pick an area on the material that won't be carved away (somewhere along the edges is usually a good spot,) and set your Z zero there. Then, just return to that spot to set your Z zero after each tool change.

[@CandyJunction]

Thank you!

[@SkyscraperGuitars]

Great tutorial Mark!

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you, Greg!

[@alanpfahler1707]

Thanks Mark, Very Informative.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thanks for checking it out!

[@IndustrialPlasticsNanaimo]

Thanks Mark. Very helpful.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you, Jeff! Glad it helps!

[@IndustrialPlasticsNanaimo]

@@MarkLindsayCNC quick question Mark. When you create a new job in VCarve and choose your resolution quality, does the higher the resolution show a better detailed route job or does it have more to do with stopover, or both. Just trying to confirm my understanding :-). Thanks again.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

@@IndustrialPlasticsNanaimo That resolution quality is for 3D models and 3D carving only. It does absolutely nothing for anything else.

[@IndustrialPlasticsNanaimo]

@@MarkLindsayCNC yes it's the 3DCarving that I'm wondering about.

[@dptp9lf]

Great Video Mark!

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thanks, Lyle!

[@josephpiccione1653]

Excellent lesson. Question, though. Can you curve the text somewhat (similar to the stitches) so that it matches the contour of the football?

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

You certainly could. See my earlier videos on Applying Text to a Curve for the demonstrations.

[@josephpiccione1653]

@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks. Awesome teaching.

[@danbrown6529]

Great video Mark. How are you keeping the football from moving when you cut it full depth like you are in this video? I’m guessing 2 sided tape?

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

While I didn't show it in this video, 3D tabs will work very well - as would the masking tape and CA method. Yes, you could use double-sided tape if you're a fan.

[@rickbennett9643]

Excellent videos! Trying to get a handle on this before I buy a CNC, and your videos are really helping. You have a knack for this. I see in most cases when setting the toolpath, the x,y datum is set to the lower left corner, but in this case you set it to the center. Is that the case for all 3d projects?

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you, Rick! As you progress through my videos, you'll see that I explain this several times. I set my X Y Datum position to the center for layout purposes. After I have the design finished and I'm ready to calculate the actual toolpaths, I will change my X Y Datum to the lower left corner, because that's where I set my X, Y, and Z zero on the CNC. I just find it easier to draw and lay out the design with the X Y Datum in the center. Not everybody does that. It's another case of "sometimes there is no best way to do it." Whichever way you choose to do it is just fine.

[@michaelmccoy4739]

Hey, Mark. I appreciate your videos, I’m slowly working my way through them all. I’m new to vCarve and CNCing in general. I have a quick question for you. I’m trying to make a 3D relief (no dish) from an STL I created by extruding the faces of an SVG in Blender. When I cut out my roughing pass, everything looks fine, but my finishing pass doesn’t remove all of the necessary material left by my roughing pass, because it only goes around the vector border. (I input the STL into vCarve and added a border) I’m left with a small amount of material on the outside of my shape that definitely could have been hit by either bit. How do I get rid of it? To reiterate - all I’m trying to do is outline my shape with a V bit and then make it sit above the surface of the wood by using the end mill to remove the waste until I get to the bottom of my shape. (Like a male inlay) Hope you can clarify things for me a bit. Thank you

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

In your 3D Roughing and Finishing toolpaths, set a Boundary Offset of whatever amount you think would be required to remove that material you want removed, then recalculate the toolpaths. A Boundary Offset of, say, 1/4 inch will make the bits continue to carve 1/4 inch beyond the vector boundary you select. Obviously you'd set that amount to whatever you need, but that's the gist of it.

[@michaelmccoy4739]

Ah, that makes too much sense… Don’t know why I didn’t think to try that, but thank you. I appreciate you taking the time to reply

[@ynghoss3363]

u are the guru

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you! I hope you find it helpful!

[@dadovirvob.8855]

thanks...

[@IH1940HAY]

Excellent tutorial on putting text on a curved surface, and I understand that. But my project is cutting text on an existing 3D object, a wooden sword. The cross section has a 1/4” wide flat (In the center) then bevels down 10 degrees on each side of the flat to a sharp edge. This is the cross section, I need to place the text running lengthwise of the sword and extending across the flat and down each side bevel. Hope I an making this understandable. How do I accomplish this? Thanks

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

You would need to first model the object, or at least the section of the object you intend to engrave. Then you could create the text and project it onto the model.

[@IH1940HAY]

@@MarkLindsayCNC I only have VcarvePro and seems that it cannot be used to create a 3D drawing. I have a friend that has Aspire I’ll ask him to generate the model then I can add the text to the surface. Thanks Mark.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

He'll need to create the model, then export it as an STL file so you can import it into VCarve. VCarve won't let you open an Aspire file.

[@edwardwebb616]

Again such informative info - thanks. I am true beginner. One video I watched said to always have tabs so the project doesnt bounce around. I dont understand this last part where you said not to use tabs. Can you help me understand? Thanks

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Sorry for the confusion. I don't use tabs, but that's because of the mounting technique I use. If you're using screws, clamps, wedges, etc to hold down your material, you SHOULD use tabs. The other video was right - you need to make sure the material doesn't move at all while it's cutting, no matter that kind of cutting or carving it's doing. Thanks for watching!

[@edwardwebb616]

@@MarkLindsayCNC thanks for clearing that up for me.

[@Jaez85]

Thanks for sharing.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thanks for watching!

[@davidstrope1883]

The X,Y, Z start point is set in the center. Would the material corner be a better choice?

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

That's 100% your choice. Some folks set their X and Y to the center in the software because they set the X and Y zeros on their machines to the center of the material. If you set your X and Y zero to the lower left corner, for example, you should certainly set your X Y Datum Position to the lower left corner before you calculate toolpaths. That's what I do. I set my X Y Datum Position to the center in Aspire for layout purposes, because it's easier for me to draw the design based on the center of the material. Before I calculate toolpaths, I move the X Y Datum Position to the lower left corner because that's where I set my X and Y zeros on the machine.

[@davecable3104]

What was the extra triangular piece right above S.?Was there after carving football itself.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

That is what's known as the Origin Point. It's 3 arrows, pointing in the X Y and Z directions, and it is centered at the point you set your XY Datum in Job Setup. I had forgotten that I had turned it on when I recorded this video, and didn't discover it until the video was uploaded. You can turn the Origin Point on by going to the EDIT menu, then click Options. In the 3D View category, you'll see Draw Origin. In the space next to it, you'll see NO. Click on NO, and select YES from the menu if you want to turn it on. Go back and change it to NO if you want to turn it off.

[@skidvanvoorden6281]

Great detailed Videos, but unfortunatly Never a finished product, would be good to see the details and problems on the cnc

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Keep going through the videos. I have several finished project videos posted. The V-Carving series was done to show folks how to use the V-Carving toolpath.

[@catalina27able]

Hi , love your explanation ! I

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you very much!

[@Jaez85]

Thanks

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thanks for watching!

[@PaulJohnsLife]

Loving this series. Really need to be doing more with my machine so I'm actually doing something in between. I am curious about the tabs though, won't the job start shifting around sometime during the profile cut if you don't have tabs?

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Yes it would. I didn't use tabs just for the simulation in the video, so you could see the contour of the finished piece. I did say in the video that if I were going to go out and actually cut it, I would add tabs. Thanks for the comment!

[@Jaez85]

Hi, I do have a question, Do you have a tutorial video on how to import a 3D file to vcarve pro? There’s a file that vectric shares with people but it’s from aspire and can’t use it with vcarve pro because that’s all have. Hopefully you could help!?! Thanks.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

I do plan on making a video about importing 3D files into VCarve, but I don't have one yet. This video is the closest I've come so far. Fair warning - it depends on the file format. If the file from Vectric is a .CRV3D file, it can be opened in Aspire only - there's no way to import that file into VCarve. The Aspire file would have to be exported into a file format that VCarve can import.

[@jimking9646]

nice

[@resorter66]

Mark another great video . Have 2 questions How long would it take to cut the whole footballout. One thing I could not make out was the depth of the vcarve in the name. Was it very deep. Jeff

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

If I'm honest, Jeff, the v-carving was a little bit deep. It cut just slightly more than 1/4" deep in some spots. If I were going to cut the text that large, I'd switch over to a 120° v-bit. I try to stay away from talking about machining times because there are so many variables involved, and I tend to adjust the feed rate on the fly as the CNC is cutting. According to the estimate in VCarve, the entire project would take about 1 hour, 45 minutes to carve. That's cutting all 3 of the toolpaths. Again, I start out at the feed rate I've assigned to the tool, see how it's cutting, and adjust from there - sometimes bumping up the feed rate to almost triple the speed it was programmed to cut. That throws those time estimates right out the window.

[@resorter66]

Mark If you used the 120 deg vbit what dia. would it be? . That would cut shallower because it is a flatter degree bit is that correct . As far as the cut time what could be done to speed that up.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

The diameter wouldn't really matter. The software would calculate the number of passes it would need to take to make the cut. And you're correct - the flatter angle would cut shallower. I went over this in Part 1 of the VCarve series. As I said in my last reply, adjusting the feedrate on the fly will speed up the cutting time. I'm going to be talking about this in another video a little further on.

[@resorter66]

Right now my shapeoko is not set up to change the feed speed rate on the fly. If vI were to up grade to there newer version I think I would be able to do that. Jeff

[@bentebrunsvelt319]

I learn must thanks

[@ronaldcarteret7298]

How do you get the project to the cnc machine. I am a new user and cant get the saved project to cut on the machine. I have a shark HD4. Help

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Generally speaking, after you have calculated, previewed, and perfected all of the toolpaths, you Save the toolpaths as G-Code that your Shark uses to actually move the machine. I would suggest you go to the Next Wave Automation website, join their Support Forum, and ask your question there. The forum's membership is made up of regular folks who own and use the Shark HD as well as other Next Wave models. They know your machine best and can help guide you, while I would only be guessing as to exactly what Post Processor you need.

[@bentebrunsvelt319]

Thanks for holland nice video

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Thank you for watching! I hope it helps you out!

[@petershreve4496]

What interface do you use to talk to your router

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

I use Mach3 controller software, and have since day 1. It works for me!

[@petershreve4496]

Thank you and thank you for you videos I have been building thing over 50 year from 60 foot offshore schooners to bird house that take rthours by hand cnc world all a foreign world to me thank you for your help

[@jreid43]

Hi Mark, I am creating a Soccer Ball for my Granddaughter using your Football example.. When I ran the the process the Router bit plunged all the way to the bottom of the plaque and proceeded to push the stock side ways. I believe the Ball mill plunge rate was set incorrectly (too high) by me on another task. Would it be possible for you to check the plunge rate for the bit. I haven't been able to open the Ball mill settings independently from other tasks..). I have it set for 20 inch's /minute which may be too high. Any help would be greatly appreciated... Thanks in advance and for your great Tutorials.. Jim.

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Plunge rate is simply how fast the bit lowers into the material. It sounds like you had a mechanical issue, or you possibly forgot to re-zero your Z after a tool change. I typically run plunge rates ranging from 10 ipm on my smaller bits (1/16") to 40 ipm (1/4" end mills and ball noses) and everything in between.

[@jreid43]

@@MarkLindsayCNC That makes sense.. Thank you. Jim

[@SkipEvansx]

Hey Mark, I am following along with this project. In the 3D view, you display red and green arrow in the center of the project. Mine does not show that. I am using Desktop...???????

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

That's the X Y Origin, Jeff. If you want to turn it on, go to the EDIT menu, scroll down to OPTIONS. In the OPTIONS window, scroll down to 3D View Settings, and look for Draw Origin. Click in the box with NO in it, and change it to YES. Personally, I turned mine off soon after making this video, because it's distracting to me.

[@k77368]

👍

[@aaronstill3810]

How do you write text on a cookie slab when the slice is not perfectly round

[@yoesomite2199]

I ddint get any clipart with my version and I cant see how to load any into the software

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Log into your V&Co account and click on Download Software. It should be all right there. If you have problems, contact Vectric Support.