Changing propshaft nuts and bolts, with a little on speedo drives

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[@BritannicaRestorations]

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[@oddrc1588]

Changing the wiper ...take of the prop shaft 👍🏻that’s my sense of humour mike 😂😂love it 😁

[@SiCrewe]

When I first had to take a propshaft off a Defender I just stuck a cheapo chrome socket in a lathe and turned down the wall until it fitted. I figured it'd crack eventually so I also bought a 9/16AF impact socket with the intention of turning that down when the chrome socket cracked. 25 years later, the impact socket is still in it's packet, in the bottom of my toolbox somewhere. I dunno. I've just never had any big problems with propshafts... or, at least, removing/replacing them. I once had a Defender that the front propshaft failed on, the front dug into the ground and it flipped the vehicle onto it's side. Since then, I ALWAYS remove and service the propshaft(s) on any vehicle I buy. As a result of that, they're always fairly easy to work on, after the initial service, at least. Funny story, related to the above:- I had a D110 and I wanted to buy the xmas booze from the nearest cash & carry. A bunch of mates asked me to buy their booze at the same time to save money. So, it's xmas eve, it's dark, the 110 is loaded up with crates of beer and bottles of spirits, I'm 40 miles from home.... and that's when the front propshaft let go and tipped the vehicle onto it's side. I was actually only doing about 5mph at the time, downhill, on a bend, approaching a junction. There was just a massive "thump" and then the vehicle's weight/momentum did it's work in slow motion. I was stood on the brakes but I guess the front brakes weren't much use as the wheels lifted into the air. Fortunately, the damage wasn't that bad and a friendly copper was willing to help me roll it back onto it's wheels using his Disco. Removed the mangled propshaft, locked the diff and made it home. Friends weren't especially happy with only getting about half the booze they paid for though. Also, the 110 stunk of vodka for months.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Nice one!

[@TheSynthnut]

Late comment here: On the splined flanges with the circlips, you don't actually need to take the clips off to remove the bolts. If you rotate the clip, you can remove one bolt at a time via the gap in the clip. Just make sure to offset it again after replacing them.

[@Patmac74]

I once got my 300tdi discovery back with 2 nuts on each propshaft. Some real cowboy "specialists" here in Ireland

[@BittnerBuddenbrock]

Your arguments are always so down to earth as if you were always working on your own Landrover! Thanks for being the man you are! Maybe one day you would want to make a video telling g your story how you came to the French part of Canada!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I appreciate that!

[@stevep8773]

Well, actually - he's sort of in the English part of the French part :-)

Hi Mike 👋 just saying thanks again and more top tips 👍 👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧

[@BritannicaRestorations]

No problem 👍

[@MrRobmellor]

Those circlip plyers are the real deal Mike. I had so much trouble taking that clip off that I made a drawer from an old hand vice. I put two pegs made from Allen keys in the jaws of the hand vice and wound the vice open which expanded the clip. Great video Mike. Best wishes from Yorkshire Rob.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

The good old days of fannying about! Take care Rob!

[@johndiaz7240]

Thank you Professor .

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You are very welcome

[@harveysmith100]

Thanks for the video Mike, always welcome. I was reading something recently about a trade agreement that was suggested many years ago between Canada, Australia, New Zealand and the UK. CANZUK. The problem was the UK's membership of Europe. It would be really useful for you if they got it together. Cheaper postage etc, Four countries with similar people and values. Anyway, I digress, you should do a story of how you ended up in Canada via Australia. You mentioned you had lived in Australia as a lad. Would make a nice cup of tea video.

[@mrcvry]

Harvey Smith The shipping will still be the major problem. Only worth it if a dealer is ordering shiploads of stuff.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes only the duties would be zero rated

[@berndeikers8924]

good idea with the bolts-set. that makes live easier and thats what we need. thx for sharing your experience. that looks so easy in your video, but if you are laying under your car .... anyway, thumbs up!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad it was helpful!

[@stevenjones1009]

New Drinking game take a shot every time he says flange great video mike 👍😂😂😂😎

[@conormooney7700]

Hi Mike, great channel with brilliant information! You should do a live Q&A, would be interesting to hear your thoughts on a number of different things!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Noted!

[@philparr2724]

Hi mike as informative as always and love your humour, did you know that there are a couple of different nuts, some cover more threads I think by about two threads and yes my Koken 3/8 special landrover tool is a godsend take care and stay safe

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks for the info!

[@AJBAdventures]

Had that issue when I put the 1.2 box in my old 90 and couldn't figure out why the Speedo square drive piece wouldn't fit haha. And lowenbehold the other Speedo drive from the 1.4 box was seized solid like you say

[@BritannicaRestorations]

It is not a part that comes out often!

[@richardcallison1637]

I hate doing prop shafts aswell.....especially when you fit new bolts (from a bag of a certain colour) to the handbrake flange and the thread strips before the correct torque is reached😖

[@johncollier7744]

Great video Mike, but I must share a beef with you. Why do suppliers provide set bolts ( ie those threaded along it’s entire length) to replace a shanked bolt which is designed to fit snuggly into the drive flange keeping everything square and tight.? I’ve seen many an occasion whereby a set bolt even when fitted with a nylock nut will tend to work loose and damage the flange or in severe circumstances lets go altogether and causes severe expensive damage. I see the smaller bolt of the two was a set bolt which the original that had been chewed up was a shanked one. Just baffles me that something as simple as fitting a bolt designed for the job, instead of one just to fix a bracket or the like ( which set bolts are only useful for) will in the long run save you a lot of time and money !

[@leighriley6277]

👍👍

[@donaldsutton334]

How do you get the big nut off of the back section / gearbox? My wife's landrover has done exactly what the front flange looks like but at the back and that big nut is so tight it is not funny.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Transmission brake on monster tight, diff lock in and low range, and using a 30mm socket on a long bar heave on the nut!

[@luke-uc8ge]

is there oil behind that shaft seal ?

[@tomrial74]

Hello, does oil leak out once you remove the rear flange from the transfer box by removing the 30mm nut? Cheers

[@BritannicaRestorations]

A little but not much - grab a bowl!

[@Mikeaubert]

Seems like the 'correct' way is for the bolts to fit through the drive(n) flange and for the nuts to go on the propshaft flange side, but all the ones I have ever seen or worked on are the other way around. I guess its easier not to have to remove the flange in order to replace nuts/bolts, but is there any good reason why they are fitted that way around?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You cannot get the bolts in from the axle side

[@nickboylen6873]

It’s because there is plenty of room on the UJ side of the flange for the depth of the nut and the stub of the bolt sticking through it, but there is often less space on the diff or transmission side of the flange for that combined length, just a bit more than enough space for the thinner profile bolt heads. It also has the benefit of giving more space to get a nut splitter in, like in Mike’s explanation of how to remove damaged fixings.

[@silentfleet]

Hi Mike, Where do you get those grade 8 bolts from?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

My shop!

[@range8533]

Hey bossman , got a range rover classic 200tdi 1993 harddash ,rear window reg pooped it self (the window holder disintergrated) reg is fine moter is fine just the window holder itself ,got one on order (rare as hens teeth i tell ya) how do i sort this out? No videos i can find online.if u have a video that i have missed sorry , but could you be so kind as to help me out ?? Cheers bud.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I have no videos - but if it is a rubber strip and crimped metal holder just be careful fitting as you can shatter the glass - I bond them in with urethane windscreen adhesive

[@range8533]

Britannica Restorations Ltd yeah thats the bit im on about ,i assume you simply put on the glass then replace the moter and reg then raise the reg till contact with glass and thats it?

[@craigdavidson2278]

How many times can you say "flange"....without adding "oh, matron"

[@mattluszczak6567]

Hey mike notic landy prop nuts comming loose? Any body had this issue aswell. Ive allways used nylock nuts. Might be due to my propshaft universal joints. I have changed them but they still move. I have installed thicker circlips which helps but eventually they become loose. Not sure if i can install i a press and squash them a little. Not game to try lol plus steel has some spring too it. Might need new propshafts..? Anybody else have similar issues?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I have seen all sorts - regular UNC pain nuts and bolts, 2 x bolts only - you name it, but I have not known them to come lose - I have seen them not tightened enough Maybe a balance problem on the shaft?

[@mattluszczak6567]

@@BritannicaRestorations yeah i have youtubed the issue i have on my front shaft. It has 1330 uni joints-im not aware of any landy shafts with 1330 unis so the shaft might be a custom shaft. Issue is i have axial play in the uni hence i think its becuase of this that bolts come loose

[@berndeikers8924]

imho ,,, if anything from flanges, u-joints to propshaft has a play, that leads to vibrations and to problems. worse case damaging the diff or the transferbox. if you are in the field you can try to retighten nuts. at home change them. hopefully change the nylon nuts after every use, but if parts a worn out, sad as it is they have to go.

[@gazzafloss]

I've heard of some "radical" suspension lift injuries to the humble universal joints, and seen the results of those bolts being left too loose. Thanks Mike for another great tutorial.

[@patrickjobling8676]

Well mate ..i was on my way out to check me letterbox .. thinkin ..i should pull out me raidiater jurrst incase .. and i realign my glove box ..ya canny be to careful ..never know what ya gunna find ..now me radios on the blink ..😎pip pips and carryon squadron leader

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You should

[@gibsonethirty2836]

G'Day Mike Matey what have I said to you before about playing with your shaft and nuts? Keep doing it and it will fall off! And mate, geess, whacking your nuts with a cold chisel just to crack em, I'm sure you can think of a more pleasurable way to crack your nuts whist diddling your shaft! :D As usual matey, all info is good MOST times. LOL. Thanks :)

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks! 👍

[@secpac58chichi]

are you sure its not a driveshaft driving shaft tailshaft propeller shaft or Cardan shaft as opposed to a "prop shaft" or maybe you mean a DRIVE AXEL

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Driveshafts have a CV in them Half-shafts are in the rear axle Propshafts come from the transmission to the axle Always has been in UK motoring, and is the designation in Land Rover workshop manuals and parts books

[@frank-lr]

@secpac why nitpicking? Even I get it that prop is just short for propeller... en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drive_shaft