Choosing the right resin for MSLA 3D printing

This video is an overview on the different types of resin that are available for common MSLA 3D printers. It gives some base information such as prices, properties and applications for the different available types.
If you want to learn more about the chemistry of 3D printing resin, check out this video: • Ph.D. Chemist Explains...

[@MakerBees333]

One of the best videos on safe handling of Resin I have seen! Most mention hazards but then follow it up with ‘I got used to the smell…’🤦‍♂️ Great job. 👍

[@jessedolphin7282]

Would love a video going into different type of engineering and tough resins. Going through manufacturers and durability

[@LordDeadSpider]

Just finished watching all your vids. Very helpful, thank you.

[@edgarbaez516]

Excellent resource, well explained. Thank You!

[@user-tb6vg1bm1j]

Siraya Tech 90% abs like + 10% tenacious performs better than tough resin for functional prototypes imo.

[@mmjsfca]

Great video. Thanks

[@krolbren6311]

Love this video!

[@NV_LIQUIDATION_LLC]

Thank you very resourceful!!

[@hiddinlittlemanx]

Most detailed video on resin I've found so far, I hope you make another going over the other typs of resin aswell. I wondering how safe fully cured resin is for things that would come into contact with your mouth like a whistle or a mouthpiece for an instrument and so on, or even skin safe for rings or other jewelry. I can find lots of info happy to talk about how toxic the liquid resin is but nobody talking about how safe cured resin prints are.

[@3DExtra]

Thank you so much for your comment! I really appreciate hearing this. It would be really hard to properly comment on the post cure safety and probably no one is doing it because they don't want to take on the liability in case something bad happens. Purely in theory, if properly sealed off with a varnish or something along those lines, the prints should be safe(-ish for one time use or something). Personally, I wouldn't trust them anyways (and wouldn't recommend it either) for anything that will come into prolonged contact with skin or go into my mouth. Plastics will have a tendency to leach things through them over time and when you post cure, you're only really curing the top most surface and maybe a just little bit past the surface, so whatever is deeper inside the model, would potentially be unsafe. Then you have the other moment that since you're still not creating a completely smooth surface due to the voxelised nature of MSLA, you will anyways get small areas where bacteria build up can occur. It's also really hard to quantitatively measure how safe or harmful a cured resin print would be. Really, in a situation where you want to use a resin printed part, and possibly avoid any health risks, using the prints as masters for casting molds would be the safest bet.

[@hiddinlittlemanx]

@@3DExtra good advice and exactly what I was worried about, I was hoping that using translucent bio compatible PLA based resin would be enough but my backup plan was to use dental resin because it seems the safest even though its quite expensive. Dont they also make high-quality resin that supposed to be used for printing jewelry? I just don't see how we don't have a resin by now thats more contact safe than ABS

[@3DExtra]

Yeah, dental resin would probably be the best bet but even then i’d read the documentation on it super thoroughly, really in the long run if you’re planning some sort of production of parts, silicon molds of the prints as well as a food safe 2 part resin might even end up cheaper. As I mentioned the bio/eco and that whole section of resins are really badly marketed cus while one part of them is replaced with a more environmental substance, the rest, such as the plasticizers and photo-activators are still super nasty stuff. The jewelers and casting resins, such as bluecast, sinertec, etc, are actually basically wax. They’re super high quality in detail reproduction but are then used for investment casting and are formulated to be able to burn out of the molds cleanly to then get a good cast in gold and other precious metals. I’ve got a jeweler friend so i’m tempted to at one point do a video on it, but we’ll have to see how it turns out with the local lockdowns, etc. At the moment December was super busy so the channel went on the back burner for me.

[@hiddinlittlemanx]

@@3DExtra thank you again for your reply, I really appreciate it. There's definitely a lack of technical information when it comes to resin printing, I feel I've gone through nearly all the available information at this point. You've given me allot to think on though. Thank you

[@passipassi100]

Thank you!!

[@Courtneydebarros]

Great Vid thank

[@n0klevrname]

Thank you for this! I am looking into purchasing a resin printer for some rapid prototyping as well as RC car parts like suspension links and possibly even gears. This is the only video I've found explaining the different types of resins and their specific applications. Do you have any personal experience with any of the resins you mention in the Engineering category? I feel they would be best suited to my needs but as you mention, they are not cheap. Any advice is appreciated and you have a new sub from me!

[@3DExtra]

I do not have personal experience with any of the engineering resins myself, but my advice would be to see if you can get hold of some sample size bottles and test out what works best for you. I believe Sirayatec Blu is the most affordable, but it’s relatively hard to print and not as great at resolving detail as some others. If you’re EU side I would additionally suggest to check out Ameralabs TGM-7 (wasn’t around at the time of making the video I think). While aimed at miniatures, it’s quite a resistant resin and might fit your application. Thank you very much for your sub, it’s greatly appreciated! Just need to find some time to make some more content for the channel.

[@alcatraz8694]

Very good video

[@poojantanawala3979]

Hiii, i'm new to resin printing and i'm interested in making accessories for 1/12 scale action figures, would ABS-like resin work for that? i need the parts to be durable so that the figures can hold them properly and without worrying about the piece breaking. the pieces would be almost 2 inches in height and around half a inch in width, please suggest what type of resin might work properly with good durability

[@peterdickinson4599]

What is the correct method of disposal for ethanol+resin wash?

[@andrewalexander7363]

Good video. Where was it when I was first getting into resin printing? 🙃

[@3DExtra]

Thanks! Yeah, it's about 2 years late, but hey, better late then never! :P

[@o0julek0o]

The eco resin I got from elegoo was indeed very low odour. With the air filtration on the creality sla printer, I cannot smell it AT ALL

[@feral7094]

glad to hear it I have a mono 4k otw with eco resin. Completely new to this

[@Vilde321]

I want to print small mechanical parts that rub into each other, kind of low friction maybe needed .. Any resin recommendation ? I think abs-like could be good but im not sure :(

[@noobulon4334]

Id suggest choosing between a "tough" resin and maybe considering cutting it with some flexible resin depending on how much shock resistance you need. siraya tech blu and siraya tech tenacious is a pretty popular combination for this You can use graphite or grease for lubrication, in some things like brass bushings you'll see graphite mixed into it to give it self lubricating properties but I think if you tried to do that with resin you might compromise the strength

[@chargerdiecast]

And flex?

[@insomniahobbies]

You are saying "pettins" dream?

[@JoakimMiller67]

Too many disclaimers, suggesting we dont the first thing about anything, too little chemistry, listing multiple resin types, without telling anything about what it is made of..