New Ender 3 User Part 2 - Getting Started - Upgrades & Mods - Chris's Basement

[@ZebraandDonkey]

Nice video and cool ideas for upgrades.i use the light on my phone all the time.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks James!

[@sampsaltakis3133]

The light mod is fantastic!! Great job!!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Sam!

[@Chris-1974]

I pushed the LED's inside the groove in the extrusion all around the frame. Works great.

[@PunakiviAddikti]

I did the same, though only on the underside of the top extrusion. I printed a channel that goes inside the V-slot and holds the LED strip. I routed the wires inside the left hand extrusion and printed some small holders that go inside the V-slot. They don't interfere with the rollers. For now the strip is powered by its original power supply. The inserts I used are available on Thingiverse, but you'll need to edit them to suit your needs.

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice! I might try to put some more on mine. I might give this a try.

[@pattr007]

This series is excellent. I am a real Noob and the information fir me is priceless. Can't wait for the next installment.Thank You

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice! I am glad people are liking these videos, more to come!

[@pattr007]

@@ChrisRiley The information you provide is priceless to all. I have yet to buy my printer, Taxes will pay for it. So I am learning all I can. It will be an Ender 3 pro.

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

14:36 good tip on not using bare wire. Split, eye, or ferrule terminal but never bare under a screw. Except, maybe, if it's solid core wire and I wouldn't use that on a printer anyway.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks man, I much prefer the crimp ons.

[@b5a5m5]

14:08 Live* Neutral and Ground. Live swings from +170V to -170V. Neutral is the reference voltage at 0V. Ground is electrically the same as Neutral, but its specific purpose is to make sure the case or anything anybody can touch is at 0V (and thus can't shock you) and current should only travel through ground in a fault scenario.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you for the info.

[@b5a5m5]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the awesome videos! I should also add that the color coding on those mains wires are completely non standard. Live is usually black and can kill you if you touch it (so making it neutral is a funny choice 😅 which I forgot to mention in the oc). Neutral is white, and ground is green/green&yellow or has no insulation. Cheers!

[@Chris_Cable]

Great upgrades! I often find myself with a flashlight trying to get a peek at the first layer. 😁

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Chris, I love the lights. I put them on both the Ender 3's.

[@CameronLimonta]

@@ChrisRiley Might I recommend the LED Light Ring for the Ender 3 as well! I use it currently and I am in love with it ! www.thingiverse.com/thing:2910453

[@DanBrown1234]

Thanks for including my light bar Chris! I wondered why there was a spike in downloads. :D

[@ChrisRiley]

Dan, thank you so much for making this! It works great!!! I really love it.

[@vernonleeper7788]

Nice video, like the LED lights, going to try to get that done. Thanks for sharing.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! One of my favorite mods.

[@madmike8406]

Great Video! I’m really liking this series... nice, smart upgrade path with some great tips!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Mike! You're the man!

[@Milnecreates]

Great video, very clear to an artist who isn't an engineer.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Robin, glad you enjoyed it.

[@buckeyeblaster]

Great video chris! I started printing that spool holder right away and it functions great. Lots of super helpful tips here for a beginner.

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it was helpful!

[@thehappyextruder7178]

Cool upgrades very practical and helpful ! enjoying this series.....Happy Extruding !

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Ron!!!

[@Otakunopodcast]

Great series, really enjoying it so far. Have had my Ender 3 since October and am really loving it. Took the time to really "get it right" during installation, and it produced beautiful prints right from the get go. I don't have a whole lot of room on the sides where I have my printer set up, so the side-mount spool holder doesn't work for me. I ended up mounting it in the usual place on the top, but I installed a filament guide with 604 bearing on the X axis, that takes care of the issue where the filament enters the extruder at a severe angle, haven't had any issues with it at all. I also installed some LED strip lights... but stupid me didn't realize the Ender 3 was 24 volt, so I bought 12 volt lights. Yeah that didn't work out too well. They were in fact REALLY BRIGHT... for all of about 2 seconds lol. Fortunately I had some DC buck converters in my parts box so I just wired one of those in instead of buying 24v LEDs. BTW Do you have any recommendation for fan ducts? I'd like to get a bit better cooling than the stock duct, but I'd like to keep it looking as close to stock as possible, I really don't like the look of any of the "extreme" solutions like the Hero Me or Petsfang.

[@ChrisRiley]

The fan duct is something I have looked into a couple of times, There are a few stock ones out there, but I am not really happy with any of them. I am like you, I want to keep it simple, but make it a bit better. I have a few ideas, maybe I will make use one for a future video.

[@davidlorrianderson9284]

Excellent work. Novice here, learning every day, thank you. I must agree with the others, LEDs are an excellent upgrade. :)

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! Yes, I love mine. Make life a lot easier.

[@onecarwood]

It's Printing! Just got my Ender Pro up and running on the first try thanks to your video. You're awesome Bro! Printing the Cat from their file. I added the extruder and Bowden Tube plus the springs right away. The springs are a little tall plus they only give one coupler to the extruder side and not the larger one to the hotend side. I actually got two for the extruder side so I am wondering if they just screwed up and sent me two smaller couplers. I didn't see your video until after I bought the cheap kit off of Amazon so it is what it is. I guess I'll have to blame it on KZbin/Google for not suggesting this video sooner cuz we all know they tracked me buying an Ender!

[@ChrisRiley]

LOL, I am glad you are up and printing, more videos on this series to come.

[@toddzino58]

Nice job. I did the LED light mod, but installed a switch so I could turn them off if I wanted to.

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice!

[@newbheliusr]

Great video. Thank you. Just got my ender 3 and am loving it.

[@ChrisRiley]

Great to hear!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

13:42 had to look twice then realized you were on the back of the extrusion.🤦‍♂️ Was worried about the POM wheels clearing the cap.

[@ChrisRiley]

LOL, thanks for looking out for me. 😃

[@zimmy1958]

well done Chris

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Zimmy!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

Funny thing, I had overhead LEDs and just recently removed them. I only have a strip of 6 emitters on a flex arm in front of the right horizontal extrusion now. That seems to be enough for my Webcam. That stuff is several videos down the line in this series though I bet.

[@ChrisRiley]

Cool, yeah, we will take a look at how well these mods work. I am printing like crazy on it now, we will see how they work.

[@dragnet53]

This is going to help me since I bought the Ender 3. I upgraded from my Anet A8.

[@ChrisRiley]

Sweet! Thanks for watching!

[@georgelza]

you mentioned this is a multipart series, Am I missing the link to part 2 ... and so on. See you doing this on a Ender 3, not the Pro ? Noticed a couple of guys add a extruder wheel, guess maybe part 2? love the LED bar and also the clip in strips for the vSlot.

[@ChrisRiley]

Hey George, this is part 2, I will be putting these in a play list soon.

[@georgelza]

@@ChrisRiley well duh to me, i ask where is episode 2 while watching episode 2... (like where is my glasses, while they on my head) thinking this was episode 1, ok so got episode 1 & 2 now, the unboxing, and this episode 2, is there a #3 ?

[@ChrisRiley]

@@georgelza Thanks for this comment, I went back and renamed them to make more sense. Part 3 comes out today!

[@georgelza]

@@ChrisRiley Can I suggest in comment of part 2 adding a link to part 1, and maybe after today to part 3 also, and then like wise for part 1, pointing/linking to 2 and 3 and similarly in part 3. that way which ever part is found it will link to the others, ending in the viewer following those links.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@georgelza Thanks George, I will get it fixed up!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

At 3:30, I think this part might be better as it angles the spool back for better clearance. Thing # 3419226 Might be more trouble to print though as it needs supports.

[@ChrisRiley]

Right on, I am not super happy with this one yet, but it does keep the filament away from the lead screw. I will check this one out.

[@samster1995]

Love your videos and guides.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

13:00 did you check the Z clearance to make sure you could still hit 250mm.

[@ChrisRiley]

I did, tube bends down a bit, but it makes it.

[@DHBids]

Chris: Please dont use bare wires, we need some type of connector. Me internaly: You cant tell me what to do! (puts bare wires anyway) Nice video btw

[@ChrisRiley]

LOL, I have only put bare wires under those terminals 3 or 4 thousand times.

[@1ubby]

Great vid lookin foeard to printing all these upgrades when i get my ender 3

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice! Glad you liked it.

[@alexschubert]

Try doing a nozzle LED it's the only upgrade I haven't done yet

[@ChrisRiley]

That would be pretty sweet!

[@lulamix445]

Hey, great video and explanation, can i use some part of your video for my video(for example heat and noise test) because i plan to run a youtube chanel for 3d printing for serbian language ?

[@ChrisRiley]

Sure, you can use those parts, no worries.

[@lulamix445]

@@ChrisRiley you are the best and thanks a lot !!!

[@spikekent]

Great video Chris 👍

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Spike!

[@avejst]

Great walkthrough Thanks for sharing :-)

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Asger!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

8:30 this is for beginners, but if those 2 screws are missing from the heat block, taking the nozzle loose that way will probably twist the heat break in two.

[@E-3]

Nope they are there.

[@ChrisRiley]

It's a good point, I should probably talk about those screws a bit.

[@martinpirringer8055]

I am using the capricorn XS (the tighter higher temp one) on my CHIRON and have been printing HIPS at 255 C with the standard hotend (tube all the way to the nozzle) Without any problems for 27kg now I changed the nozzle a couple of time and even the hotend (cross threaded the nozzle cause I am all thumbs) and the capricorn tube still looks undamaged and no discoloration

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice! That's good to know!

[@bbowling4979]

Great video Chris. I'm getting ready to build my first ender-3 and this is going to help out a lot. I didn't notice but when you adjusted the nozzle for the capricorn tube, did you mention that the bed needs to be releveled?

[@ChrisRiley]

I didn't mention it, but it's a good idea. It would be almost exactly the same though. nozzle won't move much if at all.

[@bbowling4979]

True, it's probably not much. I'm not sure how sensitive the ender3's build plate material is to leveling. BTW I really like the style and pacing of your videos! Keep up the good work.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@bbowling4979 Thanks!

[@cerazyD]

Definitely need to give that led mod a try, but would it be possible to wire a switch into it too so they are not always on?

[@ChrisRiley]

Sure! You could put it pretty much anywhere.

[@abrahamherzog7493]

thank you very much I love this video

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome! Thanks for watching!

[@TheSocialGamer]

Hi @ChrisRiley, I'm very interested in getting into 3D Printing. I'm guessing with all of the popular 3D Printing channels doing their own take on this printer, the Ender 3 is probably the best value for under 200 and not to hard to use for a first timer. Also the Ender 3 seems to have quite a huge community when compared to the other low cost printers. Do you recommend this over the da Vinci Mini Wireless as a first printer? The size of 6" x 6" x 6" would be more than big enough for my needs. I also love the all in one construction even if it has proprietary software and filaments too. I'd love your opinion brotha, you seem to have a good sense about many different 3D Printers out there.

[@ChrisRiley]

Just my opinion, I would for sure go with Ender 3. I had a Da Vinci Mini and I sent it back. It's just kind of a mess. It works, but just all the proprietary stuff on it was a real turn off. Some people probably like them, it's just not for a tinker like me.

[@shankswrc3509]

Hi Chris! Could you test from what temperature the PTFE tubes (capricon vs stock) start to melt with the soldering iron? I don't think there is a significant improvement over the stock one. Nice series! See you on the next one!

[@ChrisRiley]

I would love too. Let me see what kind of test I can come up with.

[@elfpimp1]

YAY! NEW BASEMENT VID!!

[@ChrisRiley]

YAY!!!

[@markferrick10]

Thanks Chris. I really like the LEDs. I think I will do them. Glad you emphasize connectors, even on low power connections. Now, does the capricorn tubing really do anything? Are you sure there is a higher heat rating. I have seen arguments saying that since it is still Teflon based, it does not. You thoughts?

[@ChrisRiley]

The stats say yes on the heat rating, but I will have more of this on the next video.

[@megsman4749]

Wonderful!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks!

[@partsdave8943]

I don’t understand why Creality STILL doesn’t cover the back of the LCD screen! Does it really cost that much to them?

[@ChrisRiley]

I hear ya man, Or just enclose it...something.

[@partsdave8943]

Chris Riley. Right!!!!!

[@Declopse]

I really have no clue why they can't manage to make a back cover for the LCD screen. I mean look at the Ender 2 for an example. The whole LCD is covered. Only thing I can think of, is the stakeholders. Probably the costs of producing and manufacturing is expensive, but I'm not sure.

[@yanimal99]

Must have been sitting on this one for a while.

[@ChrisRiley]

A week or two, ;)

[@petejansen8098]

i can't find the file for the snap in channel covers. The only ones I can find slide in.

[@ChrisRiley]

I used PETG and you can snap these in pretty easy. PLA might be too ridged. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2034738

[@mathewphillips4185]

For advanced can you do linear rails on the x and y.

[@ChrisRiley]

We will look into this down the road for sure.

[@alberdw1985]

can you link to video 1 of this series I cant seem to find it

[@ChrisRiley]

Here you go. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGKzc6WNfsysd9U

[@jeanraines3215]

Will you be upgrading the mainboard to a SKR V1.3 end installing a probe to set up in Marlin bugfix 2.0 in Atom please

[@ChrisRiley]

I am looking into something like this now.

[@paulcumber4732]

good job

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Paul!

[@sidekick3rida]

What's that box under your solder station?

[@ChrisRiley]

ATX power supply for testing.

[@LLF1234]

Chris, for a first printer which one do you recommend? The Ender 3 or the Anycubic i3 Mega?

[@ChrisRiley]

They are both a good choice. If you want to hack a bit, I would go Ender 3, if you just want to print I would go AC i3.

[@R3D-Remi]

Hey Chris I want to mount an e3d v6 onto the ender 3 pro, do you have any suggestions?

[@ChrisRiley]

Shouldn't be an issue, I have never done it, but I am sure there are mounts out there for it.

[@kevinm3751]

Anyone have an opinion on using the E3D Hemera extruder on the Ender 3?

[@ChrisRiley]

I am totally going to try it out, we'll see how it goes.

[@kevinm3751]

@@ChrisRiley Awesome!

[@ramonaza]

Wheres part 2?

[@ChrisRiley]

Working on it! ;)

[@romiolover6852]

that was so good

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Romio!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

10:40 I used this one and didn't attach the loom to the tube. Thing # 2761965

[@ChrisRiley]

Ah, nice!

[@Feather-Frame]

I did this and my LED's started smoking.I hooked up + to + and - to -. It must be pulling too much power? Sound like a lot, 24v...

[@Feather-Frame]

Shoot, the LED's I have are 12V, not 24. I watched your video again and you do state you have 24V LED's. My mistake!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/m5a8qHl9jL2Mmpo

[@ChrisRiley]

Doh! Yeah, but i'll bet they were bright for a minute. ;)

[@karlschuneman7960]

Audio Compression?

[@ChrisRiley]

Yes! Trying to get it consistent.

[@parallaxxparallaxx8278]

Hello! where can I find endcap and channel cap for LED strip wires? Could you please link stl? Thanks!

[@ChrisRiley]

Here you go www.thingiverse.com/thing:3952294

[@WoodAvenger]

@@ChrisRiley Hello and where can i find the channel covers please to print 2 of them like you advise ?

[@ChrisRiley]

@@WoodAvenger www.thingiverse.com/thing:2034738

[@JimmyJames420]

How did you get the Ender 3 for $159? I thought $189 was good. Great videos FYI

[@ChrisRiley]

LOL, just go lucky I guess. Thank you!

[@elfpimp1]

Wait! What?? No Benchie print?!?!

[@ChrisRiley]

LOL, oh just wait for the next one. lol

[@elfpimp1]

@@ChrisRiley tease...

[@ScottLahteine]

14:12 - If you have -24V wired to +24V you end up with a 48V potential. So, is it possible that the connections on the PSU are GND and not -24V?

[@ChrisRiley]

Mind blown, now I have to go look it up.

[@schano1992]

Changed my broken Mainboard with an mks gen 1.4 with tmc get it all to work fine now except of the end stops it ru s in an don't stops pushing against any suggestions how I could try fix that? It's on every end stop no matter witch axe or or if I use min or max plug ins

[@ChrisRiley]

Hmmm, sounds like they might be inverted in the firmware. Do they change at all? Check them with m119. Be sure you are using the ground and signal pins, not the V pin.

[@elfpimp1]

I can hear your first geetech crying in the background. It says you ignore it now... 😢 Lol

[@ChrisRiley]

I know it is, poor PROB, 😢

[@Rok_Satanas]

When talking about AC power (Mains power) There is no positive wire, it's called phase. Otherwise great video

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks!

[@adam_mawz_maas]

It's often called the hot wire on single-phase

[@lose2live]

New sub

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks and welcome!

[@joshbeaudrie4420]

Try this spool adapter www.thingiverse.com/thing:4277923

[@ChrisRiley]

Will do!

[@rotembuhbut3855]

can you add this: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000421223995.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.541c4c4d1ZkiDn to the upgrade list it should be a good improvement over the stock e3?

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice kit, thanks for the link! I will look into it.

[@tizianodistefano3783]

www.amazon.it/dp/B06XW8TC14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ZZk8FbPBG2Y3D Can this fit?

[@axelSixtySix]

Way too long tube IMHO.

[@ChrisRiley]

What length do you run with?

[@axelSixtySix]

@@ChrisRiley well , always the shortest possible, to minimize the Bowden effect, to reduce rétractation needs, and allow to print flexible filament. You want to keep the minimum tube length to don't pull on the printhead at Xmax. It's about to leave a 2" radius above the printhead (I'm a metric guy sorry).😉

[@ChrisRiley]

@@axelSixtySix Thanks for the response. I will check it out.

[@manu7irl]

Hi Chris, I want to get it touch with you, to get you an upgrade kit for the ender 3 pro, made by my friend Ben Levy the BLV cube maker. Can you reach me on my email? manu7irl [@]gmail.com Thanks

[@ChrisRiley]

Hey, I will send you an email.

[@manu7irl]

@@ChrisRiley have a look here... Teasing the mod... facebook.com/groups/BenLevi/permalink/479752786085596/

[@manu7irl]

@@ChrisRiley hi still waiting for you to contact me... Or send me your email, and I will contact you

[@ChrisRiley]

@@manu7irl SorryI I thought I sent yousomething send me an email. [e-mail]

[@nevhi8475]

1st

[@ChrisRiley]

You win!

[@lilhotdog7011]

This is tite

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks!