Continuing the Datsun 2JZ Swap: Where Do All These Parts Go?

[@HerbertMoorhouse]

yeh standalone ecu gives you freedom..

[@jackbrown6913]

Brian, congrats on the progress of your build. Thank you from us subscribers/viewers for the quality of your vids and the consistency of uploads.

[@BLOKgarage]

I'm glad you are enjoying the videos!

[@frias2287]

Nice one bro 👍

[@BLOKgarage]

Thanks

[@craigfiles7067]

Haltech is your best bet for a stand-alone ecu & psu

[@BLOKgarage]

I'm leaning towards ecumaster black right now due to price.

[@hardback69]

That’s right! they go in the square hole

[@BLOKgarage]

🤣

[@Victor-t1j5s]

You can use the power steering pump with an ffim but you need to relocate the reservoir

[@BLOKgarage]

Good to know!

[@davidjohnston784]

Haltech 2500 after market would be my choice.

[@BLOKgarage]

Haltech does look nice.

[@Victor-t1j5s]

Those other plugs are for the fuse box and power and stuff

[@BLOKgarage]

What about the empty connectors on the ecu itself?

[@engersreyes3782]

Standalone is the way.

[@SeraVend]

I realize you'll need a front facing intake manifold at some point once you go turbo, but IIRC you said in a previous video you were gonna drive the Z NA for a while until you had all the stuff to do a proper turbo build. In that case I would recommend against bolting on the FFIM before you go turbo, as it will rob you of torque/responsiveness due to the shorter runner length. The whole reason for the hot mess of long intake piping is to give the torque the turbo you won't have would ordinarily provide. At the end of the day it's up to you but I thought you might want to know if you weren't already aware!

[@BLOKgarage]

Yeah that is a concern for sure.

[@brendonhearn8778]

@@BLOKgarage I have a NA 1JZ, with front facing intake (also running Haltech 2500 & PD16, with Bosch DBW Throttle), car has plenty of Torque. If you are going to go turbo, I'd plan and set up for it from the start. Just me, your car, your choice. I used the DODO Racing lower manifold, and a Toyota factory FFI. The intake bolt pattern on the NA head is different to a Turbo head. Also you can't mix and match the upper and lower manifold, from a NA and turbo. The bolt patterns are also different. You can buy or make an adapter plate, but it will raise the height of the intake. Which may or may not interfere with the bonnet (hood). You may already have this sorted? Nice project.

[@BLOKgarage]

Thanks. Yeah I know GE and GTE head stuff doesn't mix. Luckily it looks like there's a lot of aftermarket support for the GE stuff at this point.

[@2JZ_240]

I’m running a Haltech elite 750 & love it. The best bang for your buck if you don’t want to run the oem intake & ecu combo would be to simply buy the intake, throttle body, & ecu (haltech 750) & a nice n/a cheap exhaust manifold & get it running and driving on that setup first, that way you only need to retune the ecu & spend the big bucks on a nice turbo kit when you’re ready. Write this all down & considering your cost options, I’m curious to see what you come up with, but I think this is worth considering. Hope this helps.

[@BLOKgarage]

I talked to the guys at Wiring Specialties a bit ago and they suggested not going with the Haltech 750 because it doesn't have knock control. So I'd have to step up to a 2500 which is a pretty big increase in cost.

[@2JZ_240]

@ you’re certainly correct about the 750 not having knock correction, however there are many cheaper tuning alternative solutions to get knock engine data, your tuner will most likely have a set of knock ears, or you can make your own for less than $60 with earphones & a headphone amplifier. Hope this helps.

[@BLOKgarage]

I'm gonna be tuning myself. I had good luck tuning my cammed LS2 Corvette so I want to attempt it myself. I'll probably end up taking it to someone for final touches though. I'll look into that.

[@kerrytai7190]

Going forward facing manifold will interfere with the power steering reservoir. Easy fix. That ecu you have has the immobilizer connector. You won’t be able to start the engine unless you have the key chip that matches that particular ecu, and it’s not that hard to wire up since you have all the immobilizer components.

[@BLOKgarage]

If the harness was in better shape I'd probably be more open to using it but everything is hard and brittle. I've heard it's common with these toyota harnesses. And the lack of tunability of the stock ECU. I didn't realize that going in, I'm used to GM stuff and using HP Tuners on stock ECUs.

[@kerrytai7190]

@ yea that’s a good point. I ended up replacing a few connectors. I would have opted for a standalone too for less hassle if the choice was up to me. What are you going to do with the stock stuff?

[@BLOKgarage]

@kerrytai7190 ill sell it once I know I don't need it

[@paulbainbridge6425]

Great progress mate , go to the wreckers for a 12v power steering pump /resevoir , there's plenty of choice on modern cars and you've plenty of space to hide it . now you've added some colour Ito the shell ts making me want you to body colour the bay even more🙃

[@BLOKgarage]

Now I can't decide on bay color. I was set on black.

[@paulbainbridge6425]

@ you’re doing too good of a job on the car not to have it body colour, black just looks like you couldn’t be bothered

[@Victor-t1j5s]

The throttle body is both dbw and cable, you can get kits to lock them to cable, and the thing on the side doubles as a pedal position sensor

[@BLOKgarage]

Yeah I've done a bunch of research since i recorded. It's a weird setup from what I'm used to.

[@Victor-t1j5s]

@@BLOKgarage they both have plug and play kits btw

[@kerrytai7190]

That throttle body is a source of many headaches. In a lexus the traction control, and cruise control, and idle control is incorporated in the throttle body. If you’re going standalone then it doesn’t matter. But if you’re trying to get it running off oem ecu then it’s a bit of a headache. I just did one from is300 into mk3 and it sucks.

[@BLOKgarage]

I didn't expect the TB was going to throw as much of a wrench until my plans as this 😆

[@cmcz1207]

red is the right color.

[@BLOKgarage]

I don't disagree. My C6 Z06 was red and our SS is red. I definitely like red but maybe time for something different?

[@cmcz1207]

@ I have a 350z and challenger scat both red. I don't know any other color. Did you get a 6spd SS?

[@BLOKgarage]

@@cmcz1207 Our SS is auto, we got it for family car and I wanted the wife to be comfortable driving it around. She's been driving it a lot more than me at this point.

[@AW_DIY_garage]

Buy once cry once. If you CAN afford it, just change to the new ECU and new intake. The 7MGTE I worked on was a headache with all the old connectors breaking just looking at them wrong.

[@BLOKgarage]

Yeah I'm leaning that way right now. It's money I'm going to spend anyway. But then I think, if I'm doing the standalone now, why not just turbo and get it done? Then I don't need to spend money on an exhaust manifold/header etc that would get changed eventually.

[@AW_DIY_garage]

@BLOKgarage if you are still motivated, you can do the turbo swap now. But you have been going for a bit without the payoff of driving. I understand the itch

[@BLOKgarage]

My intention with the car was to get the swap running and driving so I could have a project car to work on little by little as I drive it. But I wasn't aware that dealing with the stock 2J harness/ecu was going to be such an issue. I'm used to GM stuff and using HP Tuners on the stock ECU so this is all new to me.

[@hassenbeattie1339]

Definitely get a haltech with a nice new harness. Hypertune intake or plazmaman. All aussie made stuff and damn good 👌 cant go wrong with them

[@BLOKgarage]

Problem is the cost. I gotta keep the budget down as much as I reasonably can.

[@SRZRB]

Don't bother with hydraulic power steering. Just get the silvermine electric power steering kit.

[@BLOKgarage]

I'm not 100% sold on it at this point.

[@Keasbeysknight]

I guess it all comes down to how long we talking? You gonna drive this thing na for 5 years? Or more like this time next year you start the turbo process? Cause that's a big deal in it all.

[@BLOKgarage]

Yeah I'm honestly not sure at this point.

[@jeremypennington]

Ampefi has a plug-n-play MS3Pro ecu that I think would work for your application.

[@BLOKgarage]

Never heard of that

[@AW_DIY_garage]

It is a specific version of Mega Squirt (MS) 3 which started all completely open source. Tuner studio and a couple other websites sell them. I run MS1 (from like 2004) on my Z with an L28ET

[@AW_DIY_garage]

Website diyautotune

[@BLOKgarage]

Ok yeah I've heard of megasquirt

[@vladkruglov7719]

will it have itbs?

[@BLOKgarage]

ITBs would be cool as hell but I'm not going to mess with them if the ultimate goal is going turbo.

[@coachmaguire8744]

How,did the top get red? What’d we miss?

[@coachmaguire8744]

Oops. Answered at 2:24. Not going to delete. Want everyone to know I’m a dumbass.

[@BLOKgarage]

😄

[@charleshooks5457]

Nope, do it right the first time. With what you have you will spend a huge amount of time chasing gremlins to make what you have work. Time better spent finding the right parts to make the engine purr. As for costs? Project cars are usually 40% more than what you expect.

[@BLOKgarage]

Yeah I'm definitely leaning towards standalone at this point.