Mitsubishi F5M42 Transmission Disassembly

This is a how-to on the disassembly of the F5M42 manual gearbox for 2002-2006 Mitsubishi Lancer ES/OZ/Ralliart. The transmission in the video is from a 2006 Ralliart, but it is the same procedure for the ES and OZ, with the 2.0L 4G94, as well as the 06+ 4g Eclipse GS, and 4G69 powered Galants. There are differences in clutch release systems, and starter motor location, but the gearboxes are essentially the same.

[@JohnSmith-fb2np]

Wow. I am a mechanic myself (trade school trained) and I have to say this is an excellent video. Kudos to you for sharing this info. I love to teach and show my customers how this stuff works. And the cool thing is they still want me to do the work. I would love to post similar videos like this for the public to share. Keep up the good work.

[@marckoplow6106]

Dude you rock! Without you I would never have gotten it apart and I am a decent wrench. The Terrastone manual doesn’t even cover it that snap ring killed me you are the man thank you so much for taking the time to make this video

[@CrAnSwIcK]

Not a problem, I'm glad it's helping people...I still plan on doing a video of shaft disassembly/replace gears and synchros, and also reassembly of the case which is just reverse of disassembly, but to include how to preload the differential bearings, and I would cover all the torque values, and sealing. I moved 2 years ago, and have been renovating and camping with the family more now that the kids are older. Haven't even raced since then. I actually just rewatched the video and there is a lot missing on the end, lol..I had at one point a cut of footage that had more description about the bearings and sunchros, hubs and sleeves. Long lost, I'm pretty sure...sorry everyone

[@marksanne7565]

Excellent video. I've done many of these for Galants usually because of main input bearing failure. When doing so, always replace the horseshoe retainer as it will wear and give play on the bearing. Cheap part too thankfully

[@salbadorruizalvarez]

Just wanted to say thank you so much for posting this video ..I was about To junk my eclipse because I had a grinding gear on reverse but I finally built the courage to open it up ..I bought the reverse gear from the dealership for $176 and the seals for $24 and my car is running great!

[@CrAnSwIcK]

I'm glad to hear that...

[@justinbouy3153]

Awesome!

[@eaglemotive]

Did bearing kit on mine first time with a manual transmission. The differential bearing outer races were spinning loose in the aluminum casing, but I did not worry about it. That was a mistake, very noisy. Had to disassmble again peen the aluminum case and use retaining compound. It's quiet now. There is a slot in the outside of the race for a key to keep it from spinning, but the case was not manufactured for one, so if the case is egged out you have to peen it. If those races drop in with no tapping, you need to peen the case.

[@playlistforkids]

awesome video, thanks for putting this up

[@mattparker5663]

Thanks for this detailed video!

[@sageiverson803]

this helped me so much thank you my man 🙌🙌🙌

[@CrAnSwIcK]

No problem....

[@goldenchief7341]

I have an 05 gts eclipse and my trans doesn't have the snap ring seal or acc3ss port it's all closed off, where do I go from here to separate the case? Everything els3 has been 3xactly as explained in the video

[@dannyzukko8916]

bump hey dude by any Chance did you take a video of reinstalling or reassembling let me know brother thanks

[@joelbencomo6422]

I lost the snap ring, can you tell my where can I find one? Or what is the part number.. Thanks.

[@DACLB]

Hello, can someone help me please? I have a 2006 Lancer Ralliart and the transmission sounds a lot. I went to many junk cars and I only got a 4th generation eclipse with the same 4g69 engine. Will the transmission work for my Lancer Ralliart? I checked the code and the one on the eclipse starts with KF5M422V5P and the one on my lancer starts with F5M422R795. Will it work for you?

[@MrJheczy]

Nice Video Very Helpful. Did you replace your input shaft seal? I can't find that part # so I can order it.oriely has one but it doesn't have the metal part on it. It's different

[@CrAnSwIcK]

On this one I did, as I was moving a good set of gears into a case I got from the auto wrecker, so the age was unknown, and they were probably original, I didn't even bother to inspect as I already had all the parts on-hand...if it's a first time rebuild, definitely replace all seals and bearings...and have a really good look at the synchros, gears, sleeves and shift forks. The part number for the input shaft seal is MD741818.

[@gilbertgarcia1575]

could you tell what exact pullers from Harbor Frieght are needed for the input/out shafts bearings? also any tips or trick to reinstall the shift control assembly?

[@CrAnSwIcK]

something like this, www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html would be useful for the outer race of the inner output shaft bearing, but for the shaft bearings, you would used something like this www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html. To install the shift control assembly, all 3 shift forks must be in the neutral position, and the selector lever and the guide that's around it must also be aligned and in the neutral position.

[@salbadorruizalvarez]

I'm looking at the factory service manual and its calling for a few specialty tools.. Did you use those tools for any of the repairs? Where would I be able to find them?

[@CrAnSwIcK]

+Salbador Ruiz what special tools? if you need to replace synchros and bearings, you would need a hydraulic press and die set...are you in the US? harbor freight has everything you would need...

[@ViewsofTheVI]

hey crans, im not sure if you're on here often but my clutch has a bit of a screech noise which goes away when i press the clutch pedal very lightly, i think it might be my throwout bearing and that might be due to an improper adjustment on my clutch master cylinder, do you mind on giving your thoughts? thanks

[@CrAnSwIcK]

TheJugsGaming could be the bearing...bleed and if necessary, adjust the clutch...

[@gilbertgarcia1575]

Did you use the Mitsubishi sealant to seal the housing or just regular high rtv?

[@CrAnSwIcK]

Gilbert Garcia Hi, the Mitsubishi specified sealant is standard grey RTV, like permatex or similar...there is no need for high temperature RTV on the transmission case.

[@gnmbh7178]

is there anyway you could get me the part # for what the manual refers to as "transmission under cover"(i believe you refer to it as the inspection cover for reverse idler in video) Ive searched everywhere online and service manuals for the part # but I cant get it anywhere.its all rotted out and looks like the previous owner might of smacked it on something because trans fluid is slowly seeping through.

[@CrAnSwIcK]

sure, it's MD747923

[@chrisarnold7452]

in case anyone has trouble finding that input shaft bearing, the replacement part number is #2526A001 the dealership is the only place ive found them

[@chrisarnold7452]

input shaft seal underneath the bearing part #MD741818

[@edilbertoandrade5455]

do you by any chance know the part number for the end cap that covers the c clip holding the output shaft to the case?

[@CrAnSwIcK]

Edilberto Andrade MD746157 is the seal you are looking for...

[@bossjmon3y146]

i have a 02 ozrally can i do everything you did in this video to remove the case to redo the rtv seal. and how do you get the snap ring back on where you pop the cap out.

[@CrAnSwIcK]

Johnny Sanchez yes you can split the case to re-apply the gasket. in the video I explain you can use a variety of tools to release the snap ring. The best bet is to use snap ring pliers. unless you damage it, it's not required to replace it. getting it back on is as simple as spreading the ring over the output shaft bearing as you slide the case back on.

[@mikeunt7021]

Ive had a mechanic that has owned his garage for longer than ive been alive, advise me to drill a hole in the bottom of my transmission bell housing on my f5m42 in order to get a screwdriver up to the release bearing and wedge collar. I am extremely iffy/unsure of how that will go. So far very little of what ive done so far has gone how it is supposed to, and im worried i might crack the case or damage something, especially by adding a hole that the,manufacturer didnt put there. What are your thoughts on this?

[@CrAnSwIcK]

Are you sure your service manual is for your model? Every f5m42 I know of has a push type clutch release. I'm not sure what you're having issues with...unbolt the transmission from the engine block and it should slide right off...

[@inzi7x]

Hi , We are running a Lancer FWD with 4G94 engine (2000 CC NA) for rallying. We finished runner up in last years championship in our category despite of some gear box failures . Started a new season with the hopes of getting to the hot seat. But last weekend while leading the class with a comfortable margin of 12 secs after 7 stages, gear box shredded again.We are running the standard gearbox (F5M42) with few after market components but reliability is terrible. IS IT POSSIBLE TO SWAP OUR CURRENT GEAR BOX WITH AN EVO (4-8) TRANSMISSION. What are the possibilities. With our current set up the car has around 220HP at flywheel.

[@CrAnSwIcK]

inzi7x hi, the evo gearboxes will only mate with 4G6 engine blocks, like 4g63, 4g64, and 4g69. F5m42 gearboxes that mate with a 4g9 engine block need to swap the clutch housing side of the case in order to mate with 4g6 engines. Not only that, but you would need to find a way to convert it to fwd...I have ran my 4g69 with 18psi of boost with a 20g turbo, and never had any issues with the gearbox...what exactly is breaking in the transmission?

[@gabzor4716]

I gotta do my clutch on my 4g93 mirage, which also basically has the same gearbox.. I know i have some bad syncros.. this video gave me alot of knowledge and insight.. Problem is I work in an apartment, so cherry picker is a nono, I have a floor jack and 4 jack stands, should i buy another floor jack to support the motor while taking out the trans? or can I get like a bottle jack and a piece of wood to support the motor? Trans jack would be nice, but I don't think I have the space for it.. I really want to just get some new synchros and such and get it replaced by taking it to a shop all disassembled to keep the costs low lol Also do you know how to increase clutch engagement feel without making the pedal heavier? The bite on my mirage is pretty weak Also do you have a site or anything to buy synchros and such? Would be good info to have since I do plan on getting a ralliart trans for a 4g64 swap Do you know if 4g92/4g93 mivec LSD or KAAZ 1.5 would work on the 4g69 trans as well?

[@CrAnSwIcK]

+Gabzor you would not need a second floor jack as once the car is on jack stands, you can use the jack to hold the motor. you only need two stands, as with the back wheels still on the ground, you'll have plenty of clearance to get the transmission out from underneath...I've done write-ups on the steps required to remove the transmission in this manner on club4g.org and evolution.net. For synchros, if you google F5M42 rebuild kit, you'll find a few aftermarket transmission shops that sell kits with seals and bearings, or kits with seals, bearings and synchros...that is springs and rings, it doesn't include sleeves or hubs, so if you have gear damage, you'll need to buy OEM parts. I get my OEM stuff from either jnztuning.com or rtmracing.com. As for the clutch, I'm not sure what you mean, you can't get more feel without making it heavier...if you want better feeling clutch, go with a stage 1 or 2 clutch kit, they both use the same pressure plate, the only difference between a stage 1 and 2 is the disc type and friction material. As for the kaaz LSD, I'm not sure...I'm using a Quaife QDH7BR LSD in my transmission. the Ralliart tranny will also accept a Wavetrac 76.309.180WK. If you could measure your stock diff, I could compare that to my own, and determine if the carrier is the same size.

[@CrAnSwIcK]

+CrAnSwIcK not sure what's with all the symbols where they're should be apostrophes...happened when I edited, deleted it all and they came back...thanks youtube.

[@gabzor4716]

+CrAnSwIcK No problem about the symbols and what not, least you replied lol and thanks, I will probably use a wavetrac or quaife if i do swap.. problem is locating a 4g69 here in the junkyards As far as the info on the info on the synchros, maybe I'll just want to live with my current tranny for now, or just take it to a shop as it still seems advanced.. one thing at a time I guess, gotta try a clutch install first solo before tearing into a trans haha For the clutch, how different is a stage 1 from a oem/regular one?.. As far as feeling I mean how it engages, and where the pedal doesn't really get heavier, like a german car with a v8 or something like that So far, I have a floor jack and 4 jackstands, so I'll be fine I guess, I'll def look up your writeups, just trying to save a few bucks

[@CrAnSwIcK]

+Gabzor I actually plan on doing a video on disassembling the shafts, as I will be rebuilding my original transmission that was destroyed by a defective clutch. it's not that hard, though I normally use a hydraulic shop press, I'm going to try doing it entirely with hand tools, and a puller just to see if it's viable for people with limited space and budget. stage 1 clutches are pretty stiff compared to a stock clutch, but it's nothing crazy, and the engagement of a stage 1 is pretty forgiving, so it will drive like stock, with slight increase in pedal pressure, you'll like it ;)

[@rustytruck]

Anyone know if a 06 outlander 2wd 5 speed trans could swap a 06 eclipse 2wd 5 speed trans into the outlander? Both are the 2.4l motor. Outside casing looks similar. Thanks

[@CrAnSwIcK]

they should be identical

[@mariposafire2857]

I know this is an old video, but where do i get the replacement cap , the one you took out to release snap ring?

[@CrAnSwIcK]

From Mitsubishi

[@jameshughes131]

MD746157 Genuine Mitsubishi CAP,M/T CASE SEAL its on ebay for 20$ out the door. The bearingrs are 28$ for input shaft and you need two i think. The axle seals are also on ebay 2 for 20$ the input shaft seal and the shift fork seal can be found on rock auto for cheap.

[@mr1mansho]

thank you for the video. i just removed my tran from my 07 spyder gs to replace bearings. on the control housing, should the bolt that holds the spring be placed in prior to reinstalling the control housing or does it matter. i tested all my gears once i got the trans back in place but before i reinstalled everything else, and without running the engine, im not going into reverse. was wondering if this was the culprit.

[@CrAnSwIcK]

the return spring on the control assembly has a recess in the case that it sits in...the retaining bolt with the smooth shank portion on the tip is to align and retain the whole assembly, you would not be able to install the control housing assembly with that bolt in place, the bolt gets installed after. you can see the slot on the top side of the control shaft where that bolt will sit. hope this helps.

[@mr1mansho]

+CrAnSwIcK thanks for the response. needed that reassurance that i performed that part correctly. but any idea as to why i cant shift into reverse? i haven't replenished the gear oil in the tran yet, nor have i attempted to start the vehicle, for fear i may have to pull it back out again.

[@CrAnSwIcK]

+mr1mansho Can you shift into 5th ok? And were you having any issues with reverse prior to disassembly? Make sure you return to neutral before shifting to reverse, you cannot shift to reverse from 5th gear. If you still have the front end off the ground, try turning the axles by hand with the transmission in neutral, then try to find reverse...was it difficult to get the case back together? Are you certain the 5th/reverse shift rail was seated correctly, do not forced it, you may bend or break the shift fork. Another possibility is that the lever on the control shaft somehow is getting stuck on the reverse lockout, or worse yet the fork was not correctly engaging the synchro sleeve.

[@mr1mansho]

I can shift into 5th gear. I was not having problems with reverse prior to removing the trans., just a rumbling noise from a bad bearing. I had no problem shifting through the rest of the gears. It was a little difficult putting the case back together. Ill try turning the axle and see if that makes a difference. If not, i guess ill be pulling it back out and retracing my steps. Thank you again

[@CrAnSwIcK]

+mr1mansho putting the case back together should not be at all difficult, it should almost drop together completely with little effort, something may not be seated correctly, hope nothing's broken, and good luck...when you get the case apart we could even Skype or something so I can see what you see.

[@salbadorruizalvarez]

What is the purpose of the reverse idler gear? My 03 Eclipse has a hard time staying in reverse it usually pops out or you have to hold the shifter really hard for it to stay in gear otherwise it will grind

[@CrAnSwIcK]

+Salbador Ruiz The purpose of the reverse idler is to change the direction that the output shaft rotates...for forward gears, the input shaft is turned forward (same direction as the crankshaft) by the clutch and flywheel, the output shaft then turns in the opposite direction, which then drives the differential and thus the axles in a forward direction...when in reverse, the idler connects to input and output shaft, so as the input shaft rotates forward, the idler rotates opposite, so that the input shaft now rotates forward, rotating the differential and drive axles backwards.

[@CrAnSwIcK]

+Salbador Ruiz What you're describing sounds like either the 5th/reverse shift rail detent is not holding to rail in the correct position, or the 5th/reverse synchro hub is not fully engaged with the reverse synchro/gear. This could be due to worn dog tooth gears on the meshing synchronizer components, or a worn or bent shift fork.

[@salbadorruizalvarez]

+CrAnSwIcK is there any place you would recommend where I can get my tranny parts? What about the transmission service manual? I would like to try and opening up and repair it you made it look so easy! It looks just like the transmission you opened up in this video.

[@CrAnSwIcK]

+Salbador Ruiz for individual parts, I would order them online or from the nearest Mitsubishi dealer. if you're looking to do a complete rebuild you can Google "F5M42 rebuild kit" there are a number of places that sell them. if you buy all oem parts it would be quite expensive. also this IS the same transmission as yours, only 5th and final gear ratios are different.

[@koloy999]

could I use the second gear out of an eclipse or another f5m42 car?

[@CrAnSwIcK]

koloy999 probably, but you would need the 2nd gear from both the input and output shaft as there are some variances in gear ratios between years/models...but keep in mind there could be differences in the synchronizers as well...the safest bet if you have damaged gears is to find parts from the same model and generation....

[@koloy999]

okay thanks for the reply man

[@mikeunt7021]

I am trying to remove my transmission from my 2.4l Mivec engine on my 2004/2005 outlander ls. The problem i am having is, according to my downloaded fsm there is a service port somewhere in the bottom of the transmission to use a screwdriver to pry between the release bearing and the wedge collar. For the life of me i can not locate this service port anywhere, and from what i have read, if this release bearing isnt seperated from the wedge collar the transmission will not seperate from the engine so i can replace my bad clutch. Any help would be very greatly appreciated.

[@CrAnSwIcK]

Mike Unt do you know what version of the gear box you have? You should just be able to slide the input shaft out of the clutch...unless you have a pull-type clutch release like the Evo...

[@mikeunt7021]

Ive got the f5m42 FWD transmission. my vehicle is 10/2004(according to the door frame sticker) Outlander LS. I have a 2005 pdf fsm that i purchased. Surprisingly mine did not come manufactured with ABS brakes, which i actually prefer(cheaper maintenance and parts, and i dont mind paying attention further ahead of me down the road). I've tried googling if there were any design changes between 2004 and 2005 on those transmissions, and google wants to mainly just show me Outlanders for sale or outlander transmissions for sale, so Google has been as useful as a football bat. Lol

[@mikeunt7021]

According to the fsm, mine is supposed to have a pull type clutch like the Ralliart Evos have.. But then again the fsm says im supposed to have a service port on the trans that i cant locate anywhere. the closest i have found, is the indentation on the bottom of the housing for the flywheel, where the flywheel shield attaches, that i can see where the flywheel attaches to the crank. Its been a very strong running car for me, ive owned since Feb 2017 and have added 28,000 miles since then(got with 108k, currently at 136+k miles) If i hadnt been forced to almost cook the clutch to avoid a wreck with wrong way traffic on a one lane trail, and had to face down a very steep hill on a wet paved pulloff, and then back up out of it onto the roadway, my clutch may have lasted another 8 months maybe... Im going to put in an Exedy Pro clutch in it...

[@mikeunt7021]

Ive already disbaled my DRLs to extend the life of my low,beams and reduce the number of things using my battery and alternator some, i am thinking about replacing my clutch pedal sensor with a toggle switch to reduce clutch pedal system use, and so if an emergency arises and i cant use my transmission to move my car, perhaps use the starter to move it very short distances(if slave or master clutch cylinder goes out, for instance). When i attempted to pull my car up my driveway, the clutch started slipping so bad in 1st gear it almost didnt make it the short length of the driveway to the level part. Would changing to a toggle switch harm anything? I know i gotta make sure im in neutral before starting it, i just want to know and make sure im not going to harm anything electricly doing so. I apologize for so many questions and replies. I like to learn as much as i can to make my car more reliable, and hope im not bothering ya too much with my long-winded a**. Lol

[@kimmiecole5273]

*i DONT KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CARS* i have this same model transmission and i want to insert transmission fluid . i cannot find a dipstick to pour it in as i can on other cars. will i be forced to remove the transmission to insert fluid?

[@CrAnSwIcK]

+Kimmie Cole There is no dipstick on the manual transmission. To check the oil level, the vehicle needs to be level, then you remove the fill plug, the oil level should be to the bottom of the hole that the plug was in, if oil leaks out you're good. To replace the oil, you must first drain it. The drain plug is a large 24mm bolt near the driver side axle. In order to fill it, you will need a funnel with a narrow spout, or some oil bottles have a pointy, tapered fill cap, and some 1/2 inch hose. The fill plug is on the front of the transmission, and says "oil" on the head. remove that, insert hose the hose. The transmission requires 2.3 US quarts of oil. I highly recommend Redline MTL or MT-85. BG synchroshift II is good too. Any 75W80 GL-4 gear oil should work, do not use GL-3 or GL-5. check this link for a better visual: www.evolutionm.net/forums/04-06-ralliart-how-s-installations/423819-04-06-ra-tans-fluid-change-helper-pics.html

[@kimmiecole5273]

+CrAnSwIcK. thank you i had no idea.

[@stigonutube]

Hi There, i got a F5M42 Gearbox and i cant locate the transfer "diff" oil removal and fill holes are they the same as the gearbox fill and drain bolts, my manual says 2.2L gearbox and 0.6L for the transfer. man i feel stupid but i just bought the car and it's been a loooong time since i owned front wheel drive car. it's a 2001 mitsubishi Nimbus UG Australia model.

[@CrAnSwIcK]

stigonutube if it's front wheel drive the diff is in the transmission case, and shares oil with the rest of the gear box...

[@CrAnSwIcK]

stigonutube I also have not seen an f5m42 used in an awd configuration...

[@stigonutube]

Hi, yes neither have i, apparently russia and other EU countrys have them "mitsubishi chariots"

[@stigonutube]

ok thanks..i found the drain plug and a bit more to the front of gearbox is the filler bolt. mine is a FWD only. both are on the right side looking at car in Australia. good to know diff+gears share same oil Thanks..

[@salutpierrot]

My case wont split .. found metal pieces by the snap ring and bad input shaft bearing

[@CrAnSwIcK]

Did you release the snap ring? Also make sure you didn't forget the two case bolts on the clutch side...control levers, detents, and reverse idler are all removed?

[@salutpierrot]

@@CrAnSwIcK yes everything is done. We got it though it was just stuck AF haha

[@CrAnSwIcK]

@@salutpierrot there is a bead of rtv silicone that will add some resistance...glad you got it, cheers

[@chrisarnold7452]

is this the transmission for an 03 lancer oz rally? look slightly different.. about to take mine apart to do bearing and seals

[@CrAnSwIcK]

your answer is in the description...

[@CrAnSwIcK]

not sure if you got my reply, but the short answer is yes, see the video description for more details

[@chrisarnold7452]

yes i did, just got my transmission out of the car, gonna use this video to take it apart, thank you

[@chrisarnold7452]

is yours a cable clutch? my slave cylinder is in place where your clutch fork is

[@CrAnSwIcK]

+chris arnold no, it's not a cable, it's an external hydraulic pushrod slave cylinder, like the Evo, but it pushes the release bearing instead of pulling. your slave cylinder is integrated with the release bearing. that and the starter location is the only difference from the 2.0L to the 2.4L in the base FWD lancers...

[@4G18SOHC]

is there an overhaul kit?

[@CrAnSwIcK]

just google "F5M42 rebuild kit"

[@juaquingonzalez636]

I trying to find where a parts goes if u can help me in that

[@CrAnSwIcK]

Yeah sure

[@CrAnSwIcK]

So, what part do you need help with?

[@glenbinversie9164]

Were do u find the serial number on the transmission

[@CrAnSwIcK]

Glen Binversie the vin number should be on the top near the front, where it meets the engine, the serial number should be near by. On mine (for a 4g69) it is just above the hole where the clutch release fork protrudes from the clutch housing...

[@glenbinversie9164]

K I'll have to look because I didn't see no numbers besides the one and no clue what that is for I went to the auto place and nothing but up I'll look again

[@CrAnSwIcK]

Glen Binversie what is it exactly you are looking for? There's a flat spot above the clutch release opening that has the model number and serial number stamped on it

[@glenbinversie9164]

can't find it someone got rid of it

[@EuphoriaEatsPain]

You know mutch about the F5M42, nice. Maybe you can tell me where the gear oil drain bolt is? The filler bolt is offen mistaken also but you showed in the video thanks. This aticle here www.mirageforums.net/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=39461&p=568001 is not the gear oil, its the clutch housing champer isent it? :) I need to change gear oil. Greets.

[@CrAnSwIcK]

+Lars Sørensen sorry I missed this post, that thread correctly identifies the transmission drain plug, it is a 24mm bolt near where the axle plugs into the diff...