CUCV Dual alternator 12 volt/24 volt system basics and testing

[@hambdenbob7616]

I'm enjoying your "No B.S. Approach" to your videos..! You're a breath of "KZbin Fresh Air"..!! Carry On,Mister..!!

[@timsteachablemoments1786]

Thank you. Thanks for watching.

[@yupsup84]

I'd be invested in seeing a video on isolated ground alt rebuilds for the cucv.

[@timsteachablemoments1786]

I will add that to my list of videos to make. Thanks for watching.

[@shawnlawrence4840]

Does the m1008 gen 2 supposed to be isolated ground as well. On mines where the ground is connected to the engine, on gen2 a red wire goes to the block beside the glow plug solenoid. Note my truck was bought as is and I'm going through it bumper to bumper. So brothers like you and rocknus are my tutors among others. I believe my gen 2 set up is wrong

[@timsteachablemoments1786]

Something seems off with your set up. Yes, the M1008 is supposed to be the same as the M1009. The M1010 ambulance is the only one with different alternator set ups.

[@billybobby-tj9jh]

Hey Tim! I just got my hands on a 1983 C20 with the 6.2 Liter. Its been sitting 4 years. It cranks but no start... where do i begin?

[@timsteachablemoments1786]

New fuel, new fuel filter, oil change and air filter. Then replace every rubber/neoprene hose dealing with the engine or transmission. Fuel tank to fuel line, middle of the truck fuel line to fuel line, fuel line to fuel lift pump, passenger side rear intake manifold to fuel filter, fuel filter to injection pump. Vacuum pump to IP mounted transmission vacuum valve, that valve to the metal line going over the rear of the engine and vacuum line to transmission mounted vacuum control. That is the long version. Short version is to pull the probably rotten hose off the lift pump. Put a new hose on it and drop the other end into a can of new diesel. After you have made sure the oil is there and just oil. Open the bleeder on the fuel filter and crank the engine over with the pink wire pulled to verify the lift pump works. Once you have fuel at the bleeder, close it up and crank 20 seconds with the pink wire hooked back up. Wait a few minutes for the starter to cool down and repeat. If you get to the 6th cycle and have no engine attempting to start and no smoke of any kind out of the exhaust. You might have some IP issues.

[@billybobby-tj9jh]

@@timsteachablemoments1786 Hey Tim! Thanks for the reply. I was able to get it running this weekend. I did your short option and it was a great start. I belive the rings were stuck. I poured some ATF into every cylinder then turned it over by hand. After letting it sit for a few hours, I plugged the exhaust, cranked her up and it came back to life! Been driving it since and working the kinks out of it

[@timsteachablemoments1786]

Glad you got it running. Enjoy the chug, chug, chug.

[@shawnlawrence4840]

What is the r pole on the altenator for?

[@timsteachablemoments1786]

There should be a brown or tan wire with a black cap on the R pin. Exact same black cap as is used for the fuel gauge sender at the tank. It is part of the STE/ICE test set up that connects to the cannon plug under your dash. Engine RPM is the purpose. If you buy a Dakota Dgital tach adaptor, plug it into the R pin and then plug a tachometer to the Dakota Digital box. You will have a working tachometer.

[@shawnlawrence4840]

Where zan I get the manual from?

[@timsteachablemoments1786]

It seems I can’t put links in the comments. Steelsoldiers.com or jatonkam35s.com bot have them to download for free. Portrayal Press will sell you paper copies. As will lots of people on eBay.