Cura 5.0 - 3 Ways to 3D Print Vases for Better Results

[@PappyMcB]

Thanks!

[@michael7324]

Best channel to learn Cura and 3D printing. Thank you.

[@itzmeagain8011]

Great video, thanks Its. Clearly well thought out and presented in a logical and organized way. I learned a huge amount from this.

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment.

[@BoilerDan1]

I'm just getting started...... You are great in a simple clarification for a true beginner. I'm hoping to form miniature cannons for model ships. Great Help!

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Glad it was helpful! Good luck with the cannons!!

[@californiasomething]

Using method two and sharpest corner on Cura 5.2.1, I was able to make a spiral vase with no apparent seams, as it automatically hid them on the inside corners. Thanks for the tips!

[@zsavage1820]

this is a good video to start with and then you can experiment with some of the settings as well Thank you for an informative video

[@tincho6720]

thanks for sharing this, very clear and concise.

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Awesome glad you liked it!

[@dovan4092]

Brilliant lesson. Hope you do more lessons in detail.

[@patrickspapens5497]

I managed to get a creality hardened steel nozzle set for cheap, it has 2 0.6mm nozzles and i like to use those for vase mode. Makes it just that bit stronger.

[@RobertArmstrong-xm9zg]

Incredible video

[@jettech1041]

I just started 3D printing a week ago. Found your video about extrusion calibration. I must say that you made it simple and easy for a total beginner to understand and follow! Thanks and you have a new subscriber!🦾 oh and I’m going to try out a spiral vase print for my mom! Fingers crossed 🤞!

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

That’s awesome I’m glad you found me and I’m glad I could help!

[@ohad3D]

great video! i just learned a lot in these 20 min.

[@DIYTinkerer]

Thanks for the info, no3 worked first time for me 👍🏻

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

That’s awesome glad it helped.

[@MorrWorm8]

I think this is definitely one of your better videos! Top Notch & Well Done!!!

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Wow, thanks!

[@jackcampbell4465]

I really like your style of presentation for working with Cura/fdm printing. I seriously would put you up there with Chuck Hellebuyck. Great stuff!

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Wow. High praise. Thank you so much.

[@juanelfers8753]

Thank you very much for this video, it's been really useful

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

No problem glad it helped.

[@AbdulAziz-cj4hg]

how do you make model on 7:05 or what is the keywords for it so i can learn more about modelling something like that

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

The model I printed is just a vase I found on Thingiverse

[@jamesvictor2182]

Super vid, thanks mate.

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

So welcome thanks and I’m glad you liked it

[@Zukes454]

good insight, curious to know how big of a difference the print times were when printing at a slower speed with thicker walls?

[@PappyMcB]

After watching your Vase video (GREAT info!) I printed a Spiral Cross Cut Vase with my Ender 3 S1 Plus Printer in Spiral (Vase) Mode with a .8mm nozzle and set a .32mm layer height with a .8mm line width, 220C Nozzle temp, 60C build plate temp, and a print speed of 30mm/sec; 125% flow. These settings wee selected in CURA to get strength in the build using Spiral Mode, since it only prints ONE layer and no infill. The strength is VERY good, but the print was done in Silk Silver PLA and it came ou very dull in comparison to printing in a normal mode using traditional settings with infill and multiple layers. What setting, or settings is causing the Silk PLA to lack sheen or lack of being shiny?

[@zsavage1820]

Did you try turning off auto restart after power loss? some of those dots are from memory pauses so it knows where to restart after power loss

[@mr89firebird]

You should be able to put in some post-process G-code, using Cura, to print your base at one temperature, then to change it to another temperature once you start doing the outer contour.

[@memcbride]

Great Video, as are ALL of yours. I used some of your tips to improve my Vase printing with my Ender 3 S1 Plus, but now I am mostly printing on my K1 Max since I got it last year. Vases are a challenge to find the right mix for speed and quality AND, of course, WATERPROOF. I have used mostly Creality Print and Orca Slicers, because Cura doesn't have a profile for Creality's K1 Max. Any suggestions to fix water leakage from the base and sometimes seams in spiral vase designs? I don't want to have to wax or epoxy all of my vase prints.

[@midnightcry1468]

Hi. Did you notice a big difference in speed going to the K1 Max?

[@MEMcB47]

@ Not sure if I replied previously. If not, sorry! YES…I noticed a difference of about 2-3 times as fast in print times as my Enders 3 S1 Plus

[@nishanthraghul1499]

Can I print lythopane in this modified vase mode ?

[@MorrWorm8]

What plugin gives you the actual path of the printer head? Mine just shows layer by layer. Also I’m not seeing the starts & stops. I can’t seem to find that setting. TIA

[@menscherde]

Since a few days I have random missing layers in cure while using vase mode. The often times also just partially missing z layers appear in the slicer preview. If printed, the print fails because of that. I never had this issue before. Any idea how to fix this? I am printing with a 1.2 mm nozzle. Thanks in advance!

[@trustyourforce4041]

I use a 1mm nozzle if I'm printing a vase which makes it much stronger. The only issue I've seen are some small gaps on the bottom. Although, I normally glue a piece of felt to the bottom anyway so it's not that big of a deal.

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Oh yeah that would make a big difference. That’s a good way to make it super strong for sure.

[@81GTUN4]

I print a bottom raft that has zero gaps and then the initial bottom layer with all walls. So then I have over filled lines then covered with a layer of circles. This way there are no repetitive patterns. Dialed in just right it is almost always water tight. Make sure to wipe outer walls 10-15mm and that helps the initial spiral start spat not be a weak spot.

[@raymondgestring3991]

Can you do two lines with the third method?

[@turionb1408]

awesome thanks

[@zsavage1820]

I am printing Clear filament

[@Eiydra]

I've tried these settings and watched several videos in case it was me missing something but my vase is not hollowing out in cura despite following all the steps. I have set top layer to 0 and infill to 0, and slice. Still a solid object. I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. Any ideas?

[@MorrWorm8]

Wait!!!!! How are you moving around your object? I only have zoom in & out. Or the click different views.

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

I do believe it’s right click and drag

[@MorrWorm8]

@@ItsMeaDMaDe thank you very much! This is a game changer!!

[@edainarguijo6225]

thanksssss!!!!!!

[@Solvard-Qc]

i dont understand what im doing rong .... wen i ask cura to make 0 top layer it stil make a top layer and if i ask cura to make the spiral ting it print some string acrose my top hole

[@onprint4868]

I have this issue in the vase mode, the print speed it´s so slow, about 30mm/s, no matter I set it up to any other number, 50 or 100.. it always going to print so slow.. I can´t realize what happen.. even the bottom layers are printed faster at the setting up speed, but when it reach the single wall area it go so slow.. spiralize mode or single wall set up.. 😥😥

[@jb3d247]

You need to adjust your minimum layer time. I know you wrote this 7 months ago so hopefully you've already figured this out.

[@frits183]

Hello How about the printing time 4 the different settings 🤔 And have you a internet site or will you place the numbers 4 the advantages settings here? I like the way you advise and explain but i am not a type 4 discord or Facebook and so on. And Greatings from Holland Amsterdam. 🤗

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

It’s not about print time. It’s about those few settings. It make your printer push out more filament and makes thicker walls to make your vase stronger.

[@frits183]

@@ItsMeaDMaDe i understand that but i was curious how much the one or other setting is going slower or faster. But thanks anyway for the explanation ☺️

[@makedaevilmage]

15:10 You changed the speed to 15 but the wall speed is 7.5 ... aren't you just printing wall with vase mode?

[@steammartian7705]

I would say if trying your way. Turn the temp down on the base. Leave the speed push out the filament. Depends if your running your fans on the base. I don’t run my fans on the base. I run the overture plus on 220 all the time. I could fine tune it. It’s not perfect that way. But it works. But I would believe the silk would be good at 200. I just got silk tan it once. Temp could definitely be at 200 😂 I have found a good cooling setup for my ender 3. Works really really well on bridging. Also cooling the filament at the right time. Anyways. If u did turn off the fans and leave the temp lower than 250. I’d say 210 maybe 220 it wouldn’t glob up on the pla. The silk I would say 190 probably on the base and 200 on the layers. Especially spirals. The other way. Maybe 180.

[@claritamarquez5353]

Como se cura el eppen

[@zsavage1820]

it's not from going to fast.. it's the memory where the auto restart after power loss... I already looked into it because any of my prints that had curved sides had little tits on them.. as soon as I turned off auto restart.. they vanished... also if you don't see some of the setting he shows in this video.. on CURA where for example is says QUALITY.. if you put your mouse over the check on the left side you will see what looks like a little slider icon ..click on that and it popup the settings for that choice.. like walls and other main options.... hope this helps

[@ouew3872]

why not use vase mode? just curious what are the benefits.

[@ItsMeaDMaDe]

Vase mode works well but it only prints at 1 wall thickness so this is me going over ways to get good vases that are thicker and stronger.

[@Чё.надобно]

UltiMaker Cura 5.4.0 does not work fuzzy shell, It works only for 1 layer. 🤨

[@AsusDK1]

Upping the Flow does nothing than ruining the baselayers, as clearly seen in the Video, leave the Flow at 100 Percent, and you will get the same result...