Dean Park Station Video 137 - How to Model Rust with Humbrol Products

[@robinhadley]

Great to see proper step by step ‘how to’s ‘ Thank you for sharing your ways of modelling.

[@ianmacquarrie4544]

A great layout and some great techniques, and especially with a fellow Scotsman doing it. The videos pass the evenings away here in Riyadh and I long to get home to Uddingston and start my layout in a year or so. Thanks.

[@DeanPark]

Hi, cool. Thanks for getting in touch and I hope my other videos keep you interested until that layout of yours starts. Dave

[@trainmanbob]

Excellent tutorial Dave. Many thanks for demonstrating it. Cheers, Bob

[@johncarvil498]

Excellent tutorial Dave, the finished girder on the layout looks like the real thing. Cheers John.

[@DeanPark]

Hi, do you think so? that's great, thanks. Dave

[@thescrapline4905]

Thumbs up from me Dave. I discovered the "peeling" effect by chance a few years back and still working on improving it. You got the base tones spot on, I still lay mine down that exact way but again working on trying different ways. Keep it up before you know it you'll be weathering the life out the layout. Tim

[@DeanPark]

hi, thanks. I was pretty pleased with this effect. still a bit of a way to go until I tackle locos like you lol. Dave

[@thescrapline4905]

DaveClass47 You'll get there. I never touched expensive models until I got it right. I've just recently done my own 50 046 into rundown condition as it looked in reality - a gift from my wife - her face when she saw what I was doing.. If I was a kid I'm sure she would of clipped me round the ear. Lol

[@paulbaker916]

Great work. Very enjoyable to watch and extremely realistic.

[@DeanPark]

hi Paul, yeah I think it looks pretty good. thanks. Dave

[@mike6147]

My dad had a Morris Marina. He did absolutely nothing with it and, hey presto, two years later, there was a magnificent rust effect. X

[@DeanPark]

If he has read the cars standard specification he would have seen that this was a built in design feature of the said Morris Marina. My granddads blue one has the same.....a lovely crescent of rust around 2 of the wheel arches. It looks magnificent. BRITISH car engineering at its best.

[@IamRobotMonkey]

My Dad too. Ugly, miserable little bitch. The car not Dad!

[@johnrobson4230]

Looks amazing! Another excellent video, will have to try this out on an old loco I have!

[@bigfella1952]

Great informative video. .. like how you showed each step ..will defo be trying this technique ..thanks ..x the Bigfella x Paul

[@Castlebridge-00]

Very informative. I have a disused girder bridge to do in the next few months and I am going to use your method. thanks. Barry.Devon.

[@michaelwearne8570]

Very good video ,got to try this technique,looks very realistic,well done.

[@NewcastleCentralOOGauge]

Great technique, thanks for sharing. Really appreciate how you detail all the specific materials that you use. The finished product looks great, and I can see a lot of uses for this as you start to move towards working on the TMD area. Iain

[@DeanPark]

Hi, thanks. yes there will be more girders, rusting structures at the tmd side!!! ;-) Dave

[@davidstrains4910]

Great tutorial Dave can't wait to see more tutorials from you

[@DeanPark]

Hi, thanks! please share this video and spread the word! lol Dave

[@davidstrains4910]

DaveClass47 shared it for you

[@MrChrisprat]

Excellent video mate love the effect will have to try it when I eventually get round to doing the scenery on my layout have shared and liked.

[@giulius7176]

It looks so realistic ...thanks for sharing!!!

[@cedarcam]

I will have to try this method out myself now I have seen it explained so well. Another way I have seen used by Lorenzo Jalbert on his U552 build that is similar to Cliffjumper24 is to use tooth paste and simply wash it off. Also I found some of the Knightwing phones at Peterborough show so thanks again for pointing me in the right direction

[@sparky107107]

very nice, how you do things. looks great . like the power work at the end. blends well and looks like different stages of rusting.

[@DudleyCentral]

Looks really effective, will have to try that myself! Joe

[@richardknox4753]

brilliant work keep it up really like watching your channel . fab

[@d-rail7271]

Looks great! Can't wait to try that

[@DungeWoodRailway]

Hi Dave Looks great, I might try this on a few of my old coal wagons. Cheers Paul

[@robmasterman]

Is there nothing you can't do Dave!...excellent tutorial ...I did notice though that there may be a little dubbing of original sounds in this one....but like everything else, it's very well done...Regards...Bob

[@DeanPark]

Hi, yes have to try and make my clips fit the sound. Not always easy. Cheers. Dave

[@daviemaclean61]

Great technique. Almost a variation of the hairspray technique - certainly one I will be trying.

[@DeanPark]

you think it looks ok Davie? I don't 'do messy' rust, so it goes against my perfectionism habits lol. Dave

[@daviemaclean61]

It looks great and it doesn't look too "neglected", just a bit shabby, not about to fall down. Five minutes after they're freshly painted they start to rust, so a pristine girder bridge would look odd. It's also made me realise just how big that Wills kit is - I have one as yet unopened. Cheers, Davie

[@ausfoodgarden]

Great tutorial and when you think about it that's how rust works - from beneath the paint. I've always tried to add rust effects on top. I'll be borrowing this idea for sure 👍

[@DeanPark]

Gerry Clough hi thanks. Yup you’re correct it comes through from under the paint :-) glad you found it handy! By the way, if you use aerosol paint (as I did here) it is a lot harder to remove the paint. Using an airbrush application of the top coat gives even better results when removing the paint with blu tac etc. cheers. Dave

[@trainsontuesday]

Another well presented "How to video" from DaveClass47. It is too bad Dean Park Station was not built as an exhibition layout so we could have the chance to see it "In the flesh" so to speak. In your last video you were unsure about weathering locos and rolling stock. How about using this method on a derelict steam loco, perhaps on a back track at the TMD? Keep up the good work Dave, David.

[@ListerDavid]

Great tutorial. I use the salt technique for flaky rust on my model vehicle kits.

[@Cliffjumper24]

That's a nice effect you have. The end weathering powders blends it in nicely. I use a similar method, but I use a salt/water mix instead of maskol. It's just as easy to apply as the one you've gone for, but removing it is far quicker because you can just wash it under a tap. I also use oil based paints mixed with turps mixed with weathering powders in it.. For the salt method; Paint your underneath colour (or weathering powders). Mix salt and water into a toothpaste-like consistancy. Stipple the salt mix on the model where you want the paint to come off. When dry, spray the upper coat (pale grey in this case). When the paint is dry, wash the model under the tap and scrub it lightly with a toothbrush.... the salt will dissolve takening the paint layer with it. It also leaves a crusty edge to it, like you'd get where paint has come off and it looks like more of it will flick away. After that, you use oil paints with turps goes into the details using capillary action. Here's an example I did with this technique on a Parkside VEA kit. drive.google.com/open?id=0B8YhidRvU95pWTI3UjNBNWo1V2c

[@DeanPark]

hi....yeah I had heard of this effect....will give it a go at some point. thanks. Dave

[@Finnertoncentralmodelrailway]

Brilliant tutorial i might just give it a go when its time too

[@neilharbott8394]

Good looking effect there. Suggestion: most rust will form where the paint has been chipped OR where water can collect, if you keep something well painted there's less opportunity for rust to form. So where 2 pieces of metal are joined, there may be cracks where water collects and thus you may have a more pronounced case of rust. From that point where rust forms, the paint at the edges will crack and the rust patch will expand. There may also be excessive wear of paint where exhaust heat hits the metal. I find it worthwhile to either study photos or go visit local metalwork bridges to see various stages of distress.

[@neilharbott8394]

and don't forget the graffiti!! :)

[@DeanPark]

hi, thanks. Yes I studied many many photos, went out and got a few of a local girder too. This one is based (roughly) on a photo I took. Each panel had some form of rust speckles and the bottom of the girder, where the water lay for longer had more corrosion. Dave

[@timobluetreemodels352]

Great video, have you tried using the chipping medium acrylics? Also a crackle one. Same basic process but you then reactivate with a damp brush or if you want a colour shading I use a light mist on a horizontal and let it dry naturally. I will post some pics on our club FB. Your layout is really coming together now, more videos please?

[@DeanPark]

Hi, interesting, not tried that technique. sounds fun. Will look into it for future work. More videos are always on the way....next update is due 27th October! Cheers. Dave

[@alexhill9169]

Excellent tutorial Dave, this looks fantastic. Was this bridge side made with more than 1 varigirder pack? it looks really long.

[@DeanPark]

Alex Hill hi yes. I used this kit. It’s great to use. Cheers. Dave

[@wthwing]

I am from Canada and you mentioned at15:00 you painted using Humbrol #64 is that a grey paint if not HOW did the full rust girder go from rust to gray color???

[@You-Tube-Troll]

Hello. You mention in your very early videos you hired a structural engineer before you floored the loft. How did you find a structural engineer? Is there a website?

[@DeanPark]

hi, I was lucky....my dad knew a guy in his bowling green lol.

[@MrPeterdom195160]

now apply that to barry hopers and thy be grate , good video as always. i liked it if nobody else did .now get set ladders up and man starting re paint lol

[@DeanPark]

I am considering having rigging set up on the other girder - at the other side of this section where it is under renovation....men on scaffold etc....but god knows when I will get around to that lol. Dave

[@nigelcarter9503]

Good how too video.

[@chipbandit0540]

What was that green and cream dmu

[@DeanPark]

Hi, it was a converted DMU car used on this train. It was not powered.

[@chipbandit0540]

You should make a powered car for it 😀

[@DeanPark]

Was never powered in 'real life'.

[@DENPTrains]

Today the 800's came into service...Sad time for the Class 43 being the last fully British train.

[@chipbandit0540]

DMHDTrains - Too the everywhere I know it is sad but remember it is the start of a new area

[@DeanPark]

yes, thy call it progress....now I know how the steam fans felt when the Deltics came along, or the Deltic fans felt when the HST came along.....we cant stop progress, but we can ensure we don't forget the HST and preserve some working examples for the nation to remember them by.

[@north584]

Bought a bachmann class 37 'grainflow' New 3 weeks ago and ran it in 40mins in each direction last weekend. Still sounds a bit noisy especially on the curves. Anyone got any ideas what maybe wrong with it?

[@DeanPark]

well, What's wrong with it is that its a Bachmann class 37 lol!.....most of them sound like a bag of rails getting dragged along the ground! Compared to the Hornby motors, the backmann mechanisms in the 37 are crap. The grainflow will be the Model rail exclusive one?....its probably been sitting for a while and the oil has been skimped on in the factory. give the worm wheel and gears a oil with model compatible oil. Then run it in....but the 37's are not the greatest of Bachmann mechanisms!

[@north584]

DaveClass47 hi Dave, that's really disappointing, you would have thought Bachmann would fit better motors. Is it the same for class 47s too? - yes I bought the modelrail offers class 37, it's a nice model I'm just disappointed for the price I paid the motor isn't great. I'll oil the points like you said this weekend and see if there is any improvement.

[@DeanPark]

hi, the 47 is better. The 37's give a kind of grinding noise?....its the worm wheel connecting the gear drive on the bogies. if this isn't 100% perfectly aligned (which none are!!!) then you get a noise. Bachmann would do well to learn a few things from Hornby's and even Heljan motors....far superior.

[@north584]

Yes it's sounds like its grinding noise, is it worth sending it to bavhmann to have a look or is it likely to miss align again in the post from being knocked around. I have noticed my class 50 is a lot quieter... I might try a heljan

[@DeanPark]

I sent a class 55 to Bachmann as it was screeching...it came back, still screeching! and with half of the fitted detail parts on the nose snapped off! So I wouldn't send anything to Bachmann! They don't treat your models very well and don't know how to fix them.... I eventually got them to resolve the situation and provide more parts so I could repair it myself....didn't trust them.

[@mtty1988]

Any graffiti or brand new Panels as If some have been replaced or not be in the weather as much say by a wall tree