Deep Dive with Laser Dave: Creating Toolbox Foam Inserts

[@javiersanchez4913]

Great Dave, Thank you!! Greetings from Mexico!!! saludos compadre!

[@davidstevens2577]

Thank you, and Greetings!

[@evilutionltd]

Adding finger access holes would be a great addition. I have emailed Milwaukee before asking if they'd consider putting the outlines of all of their tools on the website for exactly this idea but they never got back to me.

[@TrotecLaser]

Great idea, thank you!

[@rickieboyd5769]

Hi Dave, Another great video! Can you share the item numbers of the foam that was used for this?

[@davidstevens2577]

Hey Rickie, no problem; I used item numbers 1202- Red 6-lb foam and 1203 Black 6-lb foam sheeting in this video example.

[@rickieboyd5769]

Thank you!

[@adityajain520]

Hi , I have a sample double pasted eva in 2 colour but the packing of tools is up and down , not in the same level . How will it get CUTTED ?

[@davidstevens2577]

In your example, if I understand you correctly you would need to use more than two layers of foam to compensate for tools like this and layer them together, cutting out an opening to account for this.

[@fredlebhart1393]

is this a $50k laser cutter?!

[@TrotecLaser]

These are not hobby-grade laser machines; they are commercial and industrial-grade lasers that start around $8,500, which can make this application. Trotec Laser machines are high-performing production machines designed to create consistent revenue.

[@tjp148]

Crazy right! I had good success using a handheld trim router and cutting straight into foam sheets myself. You trace the outlines directly onto the foam or onto painters tape stuck to the foam... Much more cost effective. You also can cut the tool pockets to whatever depth you need, instead of having to use separate piececs like in this video.

[@jccbsl1]

As usual, the videos are super helpful - and I love the music!

[@William_Van_Landingham_III]

Now I am thinking of just using multiple layers of cardboard to create the poor man's version. Thanks for the scanning tutorial!

[@davidstevens2577]

That would definitely work on the cheap; put those old boxes to work!

[@johncarr123]

Do you have template files for sockets and other tools?

[@TrotecLaser]

No, this is why we walk through how to create a custom cut file. I am sorry, but there are far too many different tools to have a generic library for every type and brand of tool used.

[@jasonwmoxon]

I've been looking for a good source for this - thanks for the info/link! :)

[@qianbao-epefoammachine8184]

our machine can make it.

[@futuresonex]

Nice! How thick can the foam be? I'm thinking it would be nice to be able to create custom carrying cases for things like firearms & optics that require thicker foam than a tool box liner.

[@davidstevens2577]

That will depend on the foam type and your laser wattage. Open-cell polyurethane foam can be cut up to 2.5" in one pass with a 120-watt laser; with denser foams and lower wattages, you would need to do this in thinner layers.

[@futuresonex]

@@davidstevens2577 Thanks

[@chrsl3]

​@@davidstevens2577Can this also cut silicone open-cell foam? How is the cutting depth adjusted? ( if i just want to cut 20 mm deep in a 40mm high block?)

[@johnnyc.5979]

So just curious, is cutting this foam with a laser creating toxic fumes?

[@jimmydoo]

That depends on the foam used.

[@TrotecLaser]

Any foam will produce toxic fumes when laser cut; in fact, all materials, when cut or engraved, will produce unhealthy fumes. This is why any laser machine needs to be exhausted or filtered correctly so there are no health issues. One material and foam type that can also produce corrosive gases when laser cut is PVC foam. Any PVC materials should never be laser processed because they will damage the machine over time.

[@johnnyc.5979]

@@TrotecLaser I use an external exhaust with a 3-stage filter from OMTech Laser, but my machine is an X-tool S1 40w. Waiting patiently for their tech support to provide me with info on replacement filters. Yeah, I try to stay away from those bad materials, I mainly do vegtan leather.

[@SubrosaRose]

Instead of drawing around the tool you can use a scanner if you have one

[@TrotecLaser]

You are correct, but scanning the tool was slower, requiring more time to trace around it in the design software. When manually drawing the outline by hand it created a perfect offset, and then that drawing was scanned and quickly center traced, as shown in the video.

[@SubrosaRose]

@@TrotecLaser There is no need in tracing it. You can select it with a magic tool then convert selection to a line voila. You have a more precise line with out additional work.

[@FinbarrFoley-d4v]

Brilliant overview

[@TrotecLaser]

Awesome to hear! Thank you!

[@joeytriassi9708]

Hi. i would like to know can i cut only with a picture.My client wants a quote for his big tool box with a lot of tools and he is far from me, or should i go see him and trace all the tools for a good fit before i do the job if he acceptes my price.

[@TrotecLaser]

You can cut with any tool outline; we just found a photo to be the best for this, but you can create an outline of a tool that will work.

[@wayne6318]

Thank you Dave, I've been racking my head trying make my templates. You've just shown me where I made the mistakes. I don't the same laser cutter as you, mine is only 20W, can you give me an idea as to what settings I would need to make?

[@TrotecLaser]

Settings will depend on the top feed rate of your laser brand, so I cannot give you any exact numbers based on that. I can tell you to run at 100% power and then slow the cut speed down low enough to get through. Some testing will help you determine if this will work on your system. Note that with only 20 watts of laser power, it may be challenging to make this application work because you will have to run it very slowly, which will give more time for heat to build up and increase the chance for a flame or flare; foam can be very flammable, so keep a very close eye on this should you attempt this and make sure you have an air assist and excellent exhaust on when testing.

[@murphvienna1]

I have a similar project with a 10 watt diode laser. I resorted to doing multiple passes, to not heat the material too much at once. I use 6 passes with 500 mm/min at 100% to cut a 25mm rather squishy-type quite dense foam. Each pass penetrates about 5 mm (you can see when the cut is finished). Slowing down too much will lead to more smoking/melting than precise cutting. Also, consider the laser going out of focus on the bottom of the material, in 25mm distance it cannot cut as well as with 2mm distance. And, anything above 100 dpi resolution on foam is a waste of time, since the material is flexible and partly melting in the process, we are not creating soldering masks :)

[@ralphpitcher8849]

May I ask what version of CorelDraw you used in the demo? Btw great video!

[@TrotecLaser]

We are happy you like the video! This example used the latest version, "CorelDraw Graphics Suite 2023," but any version will do this back over 20+ years.

[@muppetarms8406]

Hi Dave Do you know if the foam gives off any fumes? I will be looking to do this with a diode laser.

[@davidstevens2577]

Laser engraving and cutting of all materials, including foam, will produce dangerous fumes and must be ventilated or filtered correctly.

[@KNIVESOUTRECORDS]

Awesome Dave. Why Z-offset = - 0,1" ?

[@davidstevens2577]

Thank you! The negative Z-offset will do two things, allow the foam to cut straighter (less angle) and faster than focusing on the surface due to the makeup and thickness of this type of material.

[@KNIVESOUTRECORDS]

@@davidstevens2577 Thanx for your reply. Will test this asap ;-)