Dishwasher Repair- Replacing the Bi-Metal Fuse (Whirlpool Part # W10258275)

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This particular Bi-Metal Fuse is specific to Whirlpool manufactured brands including Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Glenwood, and Caloric. To find a bi-metal fuse specific to your model, visit www.PartSelect.com.
If your dishwasher is having any of these symptoms, then replacing the bi-metal fuse could solve your appliance problem.
1) Dishwasher will not start
2) Touch Pad not responding
3) Dishwasher quitting in the middle of a cycle (ex drying cycle)
PartSelect Part Number: PS2360984
Whirlpool Part Number: W10258275
Tools used for this repair/replacement:
1) #15 Torx Bit
2) Wire Strippers and Crimpers
3) Small Flat Blade Screw Driver
Get model-specific repair help from PartSelect.com. Learn how to troubleshoot, diagnose and repair your appliance with user-generated installation instructions, hundreds of step-by-step repair videos, and our Instant Repairman. If you've got an appliance problem, we can help www.partselect....

[@shmily13]

@ Ed Tourigny, That Quick Fix was like magic! Thanks so much for posting it. I replaced the fuse 2 years ago almost to date and couldn't believe it wasn't powering up again. I was just getting ready to order a new one and tried your method. Took 5 minutes and worked like a charm! Thanks Bud!

[@metnirizik7613]

Excellent tutorial...thank you so much for the help and your part worked perfectly

[@mjkirk12]

If you don't have the "canned air" you also could put the fuse in a plastic bag (to keep out moisture) and freeze it for a few hours, then smack to reset. Use a meter to test for continuity (zero ohms).

[@saltcar]

Put mine in the freezer for a half hour and then smacked it once on the counter. Tested and had full continuity so reinstalled and works great!

[@ernestofalcon]

This was extremely helpful. Thank you so much.

[@edtourigny3127]

Quick fix method. Don't cut the wires. Just a drop or two of WD40 on the plastic hook that holds the Thermal fuse in place. Slide it out to the side and it will unhook. Remove the two connectors. Tricky part, set the fuse on a paper plate, take a can of Keyboard duster spray, "canned air" turn the can upside down and spray the fuse for three of four seconds. It should be white with frost and is now well below freezing. Smack the fuse sliver side down on the counter top. Reinstall to test.

[@justenhansen]

I've tried it on two different fuses and can't get it to work. How hard do I need to smack it? I was basically throwing at the counter.

[@justenhansen]

Nevermind. I got one to work. It took 10 throws, but I got it.

[@capone29229]

Thank you I used your method w/o WD 40 /was gentle and worked fine, my wife put and extra pod in and it lodged in between the bottom wall and element and walla small napalm like devise.Thank you.

[@brendanodonnell6419]

Hey there - this has happened for a 2nd time in 3-4 months. Bigger issue that needs to be diagnosed, or just crappy luck? If there a way to better insulate the fuse from heat to extend the life? A $15 part works for the short term, but if something's coming I'd rather be prepared. Thanks for the video!

[@saltcar]

Just curious why the need for the terminal block and cutting off of the old connectors? Did the factory connectors have issues? My connectors look clean with no signs of heat or resistance and will push-on to the new fuse like original.

[@partselect]

Good question, the manufacture identified that in a lot of cases just changing the fuse alone showed repeated fuse failure. They as you provide new connectors and block. The new pieces should be replaced as per manufacturer's instructions.

[@saltcar]

@@partselect Thanks. There must have been cases of high resistance in the connectors causing added heat which opens up the fuse. Again, mine had zero evidence of a poor connection so I simply replaced the fuse using the factory harness.

[@mjkirk12]

I agree with @Kaimukiguy1, just remove the terminals and attach to new fuse, no wire cutting needed. However, I would use pliers to "crimp down" the wire-side terminals once removed so they "bite" firmly onto the new fuse terminals - ensuring good electrical contact. If they are loose, that would be a problem. This kit has you cut the wires and use a terminal block - to ensure good electrical contact, since this bi-metal fuse carries all the current for the dishwasher - several amps.

[@bahmanp5088]

Great tutorial Videos, My Model #JDB3600AWP5 JENN-AIR dishwasher does not heat the water during wash cycle. The heat element gets hot during the Plate Warmer cycle so the heating element is fine. It was suggested i replace the Dishwasher thermostat Parts #: W10339474 which is placed under the wash tub. That did not fix the water heating problem. if the Bi-Metal Fuse is damaged what Dish-washing functions would no work? What are your recommendations?

[@partselect]

Thanks so much for your question. The Bi-Metal Fuse is designed to shut off the electrical current to the appliance if it gets too hot. This could be causing your issue. If the heat element is working, you may want to consider replacing the Bi-Metal Fuse, and it may allow your dishwasher to continue to heat. For more info on the Fuse, you can visit our website, and then watch the installation video on the page: www.partselect.com/PS2360984-Whirlpool-W10258275-Bi-Metal-Fuse.htm?SourceCode=4&SearchTerm=JDB3600AWP5&ModelNum=JDB3600AWP5 Thanks again for your question, and I hope this helps with your repair!

[@bahmanp5088]

I removed and test the bi-metal fuse and it reads continuity (NC) so it is working properly .

[@partselect]

The only other things I can think of that could be preventing your water from heating is a loose connection somewhere, or a bad control board. Typically when a dishwasher won't heat up it's either the thermostat or heating element, so this is one of those rare cases.

[@rosangelavasconcelos2278]

Wonderful help

[@justenhansen]

If this keeps blowing, even though I've replaced the wire harness, what should I replace next?

[@partselect]

Hello Justen, please provide your model number and I will be happy to research this for you.

[@justenhansen]

I heard it could be the door switch, so I replaced it even though it seemed to be working fine. The fuse hasn't tripped since!

[@brendanodonnell6419]

@@justenhansen what's the door switch?

[@justenhansen]

​@@brendanodonnell6419 It's a little black box near the handle that lets the dishwasher know it's closed so it can run. It's super easy to replace.

[@justenhansen]

But honestly, my fuse started tripping again so I took it out of the circuit entirely. I assume my dishwasher will fry someday, but at least it works for now.

[@dpffmedic]

I don't know how, but the Quick fix method reset the fuse! I you can explain how that worked I would be interested in learning.

[@mjkirk12]

+dpffmedic I disassembled my fuse. :-) Inside the fuse is a round bi-metal thermal disk that snaps into one of two states depending on temperature. Normally is in "good" cool state which allows electricity to flow. When overheated, this disc snaps into other state, depressing a plastic pin - opening switch contacts inside to cut off electricity. Freezing and smacking the fuse in the quick fix method causes this disc to snap back to the "good" state. It appears that the bi-metal disk does not return back to the good state by itself. This same principle applies to home forced air furnaces . When the chamber is hot enough, a bi-metal switch in the chamber toggles due to the high temperature - closing a contact to start the blower motor. When the thermostat cuts off the gas, the chamber cools down and the bi-metal switch snaps back, opening the contacts to stop the blower motor.

[@Kaimukiguy1]

I don't get why you can't just plug in the new fuse...

[@6-Iron]

I agree. That splice terminal is just another potential point of failure.

[@justenhansen]

I just pulled the wires off of mine and plugged the new one in. Glad I didn't waste time with a splice.

[@RobotMoker]

My exact thought when I replaced the fuse. Didn't see any added benefit to cut and splice the existing wire. Maybe it's a nice way for manufacture to increase the part cost.

[@saltcar]

There is no reason to cut the wires and add the terminal block unless your old connectors are bad. I think the reason they provided that is because most DYI'ers can't assess the condition of the connectors so they just recommend cutting them off. Unfortunately, I believe, if you can't tell bad from good, you probably can't cut, strip, and install a terminal block either.

[@justenhansen]

Theoretically, what's the worst that could happen if I bypass the fuse by twisting the wires together? I'm sick of this thing tripping.

[@partselect]

Hi Justen, the thermal fuse is used to protect the control board in your dishwasher from damage by overheating. I would suggest to make sure that you replace the wire harness that is part of this kit.

[@yoonkilchae]

what is specs. of wh prt#w10258275?

[@partselect]

We do not have the manufacturer’s specs on that thermal fuse.

[@justenhansen]

Mine says 250 V, 10 A, 85 degrees C on it.