DIY Diesel Fuel Filter Change for under $20.00 - Porsche Cayenne / TDI VW Touareg / Audi Q7

[@lbpa18b50]

Everything here is fine with one exception. You should prime the fuel system and rid it of air before you attempt to start to reduce wear on the high pressure pump. Do this by cycling the key on without depressing the brake. This will turn on the pump for a few seconds (you can hear it run and then shut off). Shut the key off and let it sit for several seconds, then repeat three to five times. At that point the canister is full of fuel, the air is gone from the lines and the engine is now ready to start to check for leaks. Diesel fuel in the US is not nearly as regulated as it is in the EU where these were designed and built. Regional differences and formulations exist. And getting name brand fuel is important too. Diesel absorbs moisture and poor quality fuel can have both water and algae in suspension. The manual recommends replacing the fuel filter every 20K miles. However, your filter was very dirty. You might consider doing yours on a shorter interval given it is an inexpensive way to care for your machinery and is easy to accomplish. Dont skimp on the quality of filter either. A European Mann brand filter is $30 via internet while the OEM is closer to $100 for the same quality filter. Finally, make sure you document the fuel filter change, date, and mileage to prevent the dealer from trying to void your warranty for failing to provide evidence that you followed the service recommended in the manual.

[@elperroferoz]

It is highly recommended to prime the filter & fuel system with fuel before starting the engine. You'll need a scan tool that can operate the pumps to do that.

[@naten555]

This is the most important part of the job right here. Introducing air into the cp4 can cause catastrophe failure to the pump and your full fuel system. $20 filter replacement turns $10k error. At a minimum add diesel fuel into the canister and cycle the key multiple times to run the lift pump. Also a good idea to pre soak the new filter.

[@zanastumasonis]

@@naten555 would the method you described suffice or does it still have to be primed with a computer?

[@petervermilyea6490]

Thanks so much for posting this. Got the courage up to tackle this on my 2013 CD. All went well. I refilled the little reservoir with fresh diesel before restarting just to be on the safe side.

[@Fulloctanegarage]

Awesome, it is a pretty easy job for sure.

[@ekessler100]

Great video. I'd recommend using nitrile gloves when working with diesel fuel. I believe that the torque spec for the screws holding down the top of the filter housing is 5 nm.

[@Fulloctanegarage]

Thanks!

[@dtsang508]

Very helpful. I have a ‘13 cayenne diesel. Gonna see if you have a battery replacement vid on this channel. I just subscribed!

[@jibreger]

Thanks for the tutorial... something so simple is definitely worth doing yourself to save a few hundred dollars not to mention the time spent going back and forth to the dealer. If you're taking requests for future videos, I'm already fearful of what happens when my 14 diesel needs to have the battery replaced. A video demonstrating how to access the battery under the drivers seat would be greatly appreciated. If I have to get to it before you, I'll be sure to send a video your way.

[@jibreger]

@Shepherd Kyler hopefully you're recording 😆

[@sagronkit]

Thank you for such magnificent instruction. I live in Bangkok, Thailand. I will do change the fuel filter on my Cayenne 2011. I will let you you know how it goes.

[@praneetsingh6201]

Don’t need extractor, just undo 2x 10mm bolts the canister comes out and you can clean it properly

[@sandrajernigan-zl2fs]

❤ love your videos. Saving lots & learning a lot.

[@Crazy_ATV_rider]

have you had problems with the hpfp on metal flakings in the filter from not topping up the canister with fuel or priming the pump??

[@Fulloctanegarage]

No issue at all.

[@Crazy_ATV_rider]

@ that’s great news, thanks! I was worried about mine because I did the change, filled up the canister with liquid moly diesel purge and diesel fuel and cycled the key a few times for 7 minutes, but forgot to check a clear fuel hose on top of the engine for air bubbles

[@ianjemmett7983]

Thanks great video and explained the process very well. Have you done one on cleaning the erg valve?

[@Fulloctanegarage]

Not yet!

[@ducle1273]

Please do one cleaning the erg valve

[@paulx2777]

1) I like to get a damp towel with WD40 or diesel fuel to wipe the top of the filter housing before opening it so no dirt can fall in. 2) Why suck any fuel from the housing at all? Since you checked and saw almost no residue, you might as well just drop the new filter in and close it up. That way much less pumping has to go on at startup. The way that filter looks, it seems the inside of the filter must remain clean, not the outside. The only thing I wonder about is water in the fuel... My old Passat diesel used to have a drain on the bottom to drain out any water. I suppose the fuel sits on top of the water, if any... 3) I like to get and use the torque spec, just to be sure.

[@zanastumasonis]

its officially recommended to siphon all the fuel out (or atleast siphon the very bottom) to get rid of any possible water that accumulated

[@marcusanders9365]

You don’t have to do this ourside because of the flammable nature of the project. Diesel fuel does not form vapors as gasoline does. This is one of the reasons auxiliary boat engines are diesel. You don’t need all the venting and blowers needed for a gas engine.

[@kirkvadheim9502]

Did you check a check engine light on after changing the filter? I always used to top up the filter case with Seafoam or stanadyne so the pump would prime faster on my Jetta tdi.

[@Fulloctanegarage]

No check engine light after the change. I could have poured the Diesel I removed back in but my container was contaminated. It did not take long to reprime but the sea foam is a good idea. Thanks for the comments!

[@davidpedder9048]

Could you not just poor a little fresh diesel in the canister once you replace the filter ? Might be less stress on the system once the engine is restarted ???

[@Fulloctanegarage]

You could if you had some handy, I did not.

[@joshuamatiaco6919]

Is it not necessary to use a vag com to flush the air and refill the canister with fuel before you start the engine? Many of the threads I've read have mentioned this a a critical step so as to not damage the high pressure fuel pump....any thoughts?

[@Fulloctanegarage]

Great question, I looked at quite a few posts and in practice it probably makes since to refill the canister back up with the diesel you removed to reduce the amount of air in the system. This is what one poster posted on the www.6speedonline.com/ forums. As far as the fuel pumps, you have two that you have to be concerned with. The first is the low pressure pump which under most cases should take care of bleeding itself as you drive the car for a few miles. There are some cases, however, that you apparently can need the PIWIS unit to do the bleeding, but the document isn't clear as to what they are. The second is your high pressure pump. It's really bad if you get air in the high pressure side as (according to PIWIS) it can result in "catastrophic engine damage". This is the pump that you need the PIWIS unit to run the bleed sequence prior to starting the engine. The filter is on the LP side of the system, so it should just be starting it up and running for a few miles.

[@jimdeboer84]

A turkey baster will work just fine for sucking out the diesel canister.

[@saleenr6]

how often does it need to be replaced?

[@Fulloctanegarage]

I believe it is every 40k miles. They also say 4 years but I tend to burn miles before time.

[@Renegar87]

Great video

[@azthundercloud]

My 14 Q7 TDI has a cartridge on the drivers side.

[@Fulloctanegarage]

Interesting, thanks for sharing. Should be the same part and similar process.

[@cuatrokoop32v]

@@Fulloctanegarage The Q7 can have one of two filter setups from what I've seen. One (earlier) is a silver canister with hose barbs as well as the drop-in. The second, and what my '13 Q7 has, is just the silver canister with hose barbs. I wish I had the drop-in, as it would be so much easier to replace!

[@shefkipajaziti1181]

Hi, great review! I got a Q7 TDI. I’m located in Florida but I’m having hard time finding oil for tdi looked around local auto parts and they don’t have it. Any suggestions? Thanks

[@raviyalamanchili3884]

I live in Florida too, and order my supplies from autohausaz.com

[@shefkipajaziti1181]

@@raviyalamanchili3884 thanks 🙏 for the information

[@praneetsingh6201]

Any vw 504 00/507 00 approved oil is fine

[@dustinkirschner9795]

FCP Euro is the place to go for all parts for VW's. Best part lifetime guarantee for everything including filters and oils.

[@shefkipajaziti1181]

@@dustinkirschner9795 thanks

[@timm2653]

Fantastic!