Dodge Neon Front Suspension Kit Install - 2000-2005 How To Do It Yourself

2000-2005 Dodge Neon Front Suspension Kit Install
Working on my buddy JP's car again. This time installing a front suspension kit.
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[@marknaimo4784]

Hay good job!! Next week I have to do it to my 05, I can hardly wate.

[@troysgarage]

Will drive like a new car. Sweet!

[@jdclark218]

Mighty nice pipe wrenches you got there! Also there is a cool trick to repair failed motor mounts using the 3m window weld if you're ever interested.

[@troysgarage]

Cool, I love learning new tricks! 👍🏼

[@famfirstalways8051]

Lol I am interested.

[@tomc8157]

Not bad, I have to do this and every single component and nut and bolt bumper to bumper. Entire car is getting overhauled. Easy peasy.

[@Moses_Kanneh]

great video👍

[@clayscott4669]

Those rear LCA bolts are accessible from above (under the carpet via holes in the foot wells) if you want to use penetrating oil before applying massive torque to get them out. I'd start oiling things a couple of days before the real start of the job if you can. They corrode up above if there is ever water in the car from an open window, melting snow or such. Break one and the gates of hell open before you. If you buy your parts locally you can often get free use of the tool to easily R&R the inner tie rods. You can cut the old tie rods with a chop saw or cutoff wheel instead of fussing with them to get the boots off. Use a crescent wrench to hold the end of the rack gear to reduce the chance of twisting the gear and damaging the rack while working on the inner tie rods. You didn't show using Loctite on those inner tie rod threads, if one works loose it could be a really bad ride. I guess "tight is tight and too tight is broke" but when it comes to things that could get you or someone else hurt or killed I like to use a torque wrench upon reassembly, it is cheap insurance. But I'm old and have learned from my own mistakes and the mistakes of others. For example, if you replace the sway bar bushings on the Neon the bolts that attach the clamps to the frame are easy to stretch/break if you don't torque them. I "snugged one down" and stretched it before it seemed tight, I really wasn't expecting that soft a bolt! I did all of the same work as in your video on my '04 Neon a while back as well as new struts on all 4 corners.. The broken part on the passenger side in your video is the lower torque strut. Buy one with a lifetime warranty, I have replaced mine twice in 146,000 miles. The actual motor mount is a different part that mounts into the inner fender area. That mount is a bitch to replace and you can't even really get a good look at it! There are two torque struts, a transmission mount and a motor mount and even the parts listings call them out differently sometimes. Glad it all went well for you, a good video to show it isn't a difficult project to do yourself. Other problems I have had with mine are cam position sensor (x2) and carbon tracking in a spark plug boot. Replaced the plugs due to a miss and failed to see a carbon track on one plug, the bad boot tracked the new plug in short order. I still have a clunk in the front somewhere, I just can't find it even with my "Chassis Ears". it seems to be from the right control arm area, but its all new and tight.

[@troysgarage]

Clay Scott great pro tip. Thanks!

[@PCGoblin]

Im having serious deja vu with this. ;)

[@troysgarage]

Yup, good times! 😎

[@einargerardo9178]

Hello, greetings, I see that you know a lot about Neon, a favor and a nuisance, if you could help me, I would greatly appreciate it. I have had a Neon 2001 automatic 2.0 engine for 3 months, an irregular detail After going out in the car for long distances or 20 or 30 minutes, returning and turning off the car, you hear that the hose that goes to the Antifreeze tank wants to boil and in less than 1 minute it stops doing so, it doesn't boil or expel it, it just wants to start and stops doing it Complete engine overhaul was done in 2014 New agency radiator cap has already been changed Temperature sensor changed Thermostat changed Starter fan and fan motor were replaced Antifreeze was changed and air was expelled from the system The radiator does not leak No leaks in hoses The fuses are good New antifreeze tank changed What do you think could be happening? Thank you very much for your help, I would value your opinion. Greetings from Mexico Puebla

[@vermasean]

Awesome Video! I have a question regarding when to torque the bolts for the control arm & other fasteners. Should the be torqued when the vehicle is on the lift (Unloaded), or on the ground (Loaded)? Thanks for your help!

[@troysgarage]

Thanks. I do mine when it’s still in the air if that’s wrong I’m sure someone will correct me. But that’s how I’ve always done it and it’s never done me wrong. 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@vermasean]

Thanks a lot@@troysgarage & Happy New Year!

[@nicholasvonrhine541]

Outstanding.

[@troysgarage]

It’s like making your car ride brand new again.

[@famfirstalways8051]

My lower control arm bolt is broken in the frame. And my sway bar bolts broke off. This is a yearling thing with this srt4

[@troysgarage]

😱🤦🏼‍♂️ oh man!!! That’s not good!

[@famfirstalways8051]

DIY Home and Auto thank god crysler put 4 in hole in the cab lol. I had to on each side of the cab where the indent of a hole is at in the cab. The dash is to low for a regular drill so I made 12 to 14 smal drill holes and then between each hole with a pair of sheet metal cutters cut And out the whole. then made a plate to cover the holes with thick sheet metal and put rtv between that and the cab to cover it. Also covered the frame holes the same way so no more water rusts out them bolts. I also updated the original bolts and nut to something that is more suitable for my tool collection.

[@danielaraujo44]

You always want to loosen the outer tie rod first

[@troysgarage]

Pro tip

[@justthisandthat.]

❤️

[@alejandrovelazquez2378]

💪🏻👹🦍

[@troysgarage]

🙌🏼